Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2020 i Decanter

Letter of the month The cost of sustainability Being a young head sommelier, I consider myself lucky enough to play an active role in the wine trade, and with it, a certain responsibility in regard to matters such as climate change and sustainability. My aim is to create a 100% organic list, although it is difficult to terminate longstanding partnerships with large wineries. Sadly, these big groups can move product far more cheaply than smaller estates. I think every Decanter reader would agree that wine should be an expression of its place of origin, and that ‘single vineyard’ shouldn’t always be a synonym for ‘paying a fortune’. I’m thinking about regions such as Friuli, where myriad producers bottle single-vineyard wines at reasonable prices without even trumpeting…

Hugh Johnson ‘Claret like this, so balanced that it almost seems simple, has no peer’ Back in 2010, The Wine Society had the idea of offering members a mixed case en primeur of the second wines of the first growths. All the better because it was the splendid 2009s – and clearly their 10th birthday in November 2019 was the time to see how they’re getting on. The perfect opportunity came when the wine committees of two ‘gentlemen’s’ clubs in St James’s had their annual convivial (of course, strictly non-competitive) dinner, memorable enough to report. It’s becoming de rigueur these days to treat our friends to English sparkling wine. We may yet have our favourite Champagnes, but with English fizz we’re still exploring. That evening it was Hattingley Valley, Blanc…

Garnacha AROUND SPAIN IN 10 GARNACHAS Happy in Spain’s often testing rural terrain, this once unfavoured red variety is enjoying a surge in popularity among growers and critics alike, as regional authenticity finds increasing favour. David Williams selects his 10 top producers and their wines of the moment The story of Garnacha in Spain over the past century is a classic of the rise-and-fall genre. We might start it among the worried wine-growers in turn-of-the-20th-century Rioja. Phylloxera had finally arrived in the region, having first been recorded in Spain’s south in the mid-1870s, and it brought to an end a period when Rioja – and many other parts of northern Spain – had enjoyed a vinous export boom, as the French (and other drinkers of French wine) looked south to…

Regional profile Rioja Oriental: Field’s mixed dozen 1 Ontañón, Vetiver Viura 2017 90 £8.50-£11.50 All About Wine, Amps, John Hattersley, Rannoch Scott, WoodWinters Organic. Viura can be a little anonymous, but not here. A combination of old-vine fruit and four months in American oak have coaxed out wonderfully complex yet idiosyncratic flavours of beeswax, quince, honeycomb and a whole lot more. Terrific value. Drink 2020-2024 Alcohol 12.5% Ramón Bilbao, Lalomba Rosado 2018 88 £18.15-£23.50 Enotria&Coe, Exel, GP Brands, Great Western Wine, Great Wines Direct, The Fine Wine Co A pearlescent pink colour. Attractive aromatics of freshly cut flowers, small red berries and even a hint of Seville orange. The palate is poised and delicate, with the faintest whisper of tannin, confirming gastronomic potential. Try it with salmon tartare. Drink 2020…

RICARD ROFES AT A GLANCE Born 31 October 1974, Tarragona, Spain Education Degree in Winemaking & Wine Marketing, Jaume Ciurana School of Oenology, Falset; degree in specialist winemaking studies, Rovira i Virgili University, Tarragona Career 1997: Celler El Masroig cooperative in Montsant, winemaker 2007: first vintage at Cellers de Scala Dei; 2008: first vintage of RAR; 2014: first vintage at Abadía de Poblet Family Married to oenologist Magda Pellicer; two children Guillem (10) and Bernat (8) Hobbies Mountain-biking, reading, eating out…

Ballesteros Torres recommends six top Alvarinhos from Vinho Verde 1 Quinta do Louridal, Poema Alvarinho Sobre Lias, Monção e Melgaço 2016 94 £25.25 Wadebridge Wines Intense, complex aromas with a genuine style. Spicy and smoky lees influence notes combine with restrained tropical fruit and orange peel. Unctuous, almost velvety, and very open on the palate with great freshness. A very serious wine of top quality. Drink 2020-2031 Alcohol 13% 2 Quinta de Soalheiro, Terramatter, Monção e Melgaço 2018 94 £27 Bottle Apostle, Butlers Wine Cellar, Caviste, Drinkmonger, Noel Young, Valhalla’s Goat Delicate – more floral and grassy than fruity, showing discreet spiciness and lively citrus fruit. Round and elegant aromas on the nose, perfectly balanced, with both power and agility. The finish is subtle and very complex. A magic combination…

Evans’ pick: 12 top Tempranillos to try 1 Dominio de Es, Viñas Viejas de Soria, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2017 95 £69 Decántalo From old vines at 1,000m, pre-phylloxeric, the wine fermented in large used oak. This is superbly elegant and could not be further from the muscular Tempranillo found elsewhere in Ribera del Duero. Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 14% 2 Roda, Cirsion, Rioja, Spain 2016 95 £195 BI Wines & Spirits, Fine & Rare, Harvey Nichols Modern and glossy, a statement wine, from a bodega that has spent years researching Tempranillo. Unlike many of its peers, it has only eight months in oak, showcasing dark cherry and plum fruit. A study in Tempranillo. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14.5% 3 Legaris, Moradillo de Roa, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2016 94 £32…

LA RIOJA ALTA: A TIMELINE 1890 Sociedad Vinícola de La Rioja Alta is founded by five families from Rioja and the Basque Country. The year is commemorated in the bodega’s most celebrated wine: Gran Reserva 890 1904 Alfredo Ardanza brings together his eponymous company with La Sociedad Vinícola de La Rioja Alta. Reserva 904 has its first vintage – the wine would later go on to be made as a gran reserva 1941 The first part of the company name is dropped, and La Rioja Alta, S.A. emerges 1942 Viña Ardanza, arguably the company’s most famous wine, is born 1978 Viña Alberdi brand registered 1988 The company sets up shop in Galicia’s Rías Baixas; its Lagar de Cervera brand continues producing fine Albariño 1990 Ribera del Duero is next in…

Steven Spurrier’s FINE WINE WORLD Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others for laying down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Domaine Guffens-Heynen, Premier Jus des Hauts de Vignes, Pouilly-Fuissé 2003 I first met Jean-Marie Guffens in the early 1980s, buying his white Mâconnais wines from the first taste for my shop in Paris. His reputation as ‘the mad Belgian’ had preceded him – he and his wife Maine having left their homeland of Flanders in 1976 for Burgundy, where studied at the local Davayé viticultural school. In 1979 he purchased his first few parcels of vines on the hills of Pierreclos. The domaine now covers 5.3ha to include the villages of Davayé and…

THE JUDGES Sarah Jane Evans MW Evans is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster in food and wine, with a particular interest in Spain. A Master of Wine since 2006, she is a Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards, a member of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and author of The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas, May 2018). Simon Field MW Field is a wine industry consultant, having been a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than 20 years, responsible for its Spanish and fortified ranges among others. He has been a Decanter World Wine Awards judge since 2005, and in 2015 was admitted as a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino. Pierre Mansour Mansour is head of buying at The…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT Garnacha Blanca may not be as well known as Spain’s other native white grapes, but this tasting showed that, in the hands of talented winemakers, it can be a hidden gem. Julie Sheppard reports Garnacha Blanca may not be as well known as Spain’s other native white grapes, but for adventurous wine lovers, that’s undoubtedly part of its appeal. Not even our panel of expert judges were quite sure what to expect from this varied line-up of wines – though they were certainly keen to see how the grape is performing across different regions of Spain. ‘There was quite a variety of flavours and styles here,’ explained Pierre Mansour. ‘So trying to define exactly what Garnacha Blanca means for Decanter readers is quite tricky.’ Sarah Jane…

My top 10 in Madrid 1 Angelita Sommelier David Villalón and his brother Mario run this exceptional wine bar and bistro. More than 100 wines are available by the glass or half glass, perfect for pairing. Their menu is short and ever-changing, with organic veg from their mother Angelita’s own garden outside the city. www.madrid-angelita.es Photographs: Stefano Politi Markovina/Alamy; www.guiarepsol.com 2 Amano With chef Javier Goya and somm-maître extraordinaire Fran Ramírez at the helm of this venture in the heart of Barrio de las Letras, great food, outstanding wines and knowledgeable service are guaranteed. Pop in for a mano tapas at the bar – to be eaten with your hands – or book a table in the restaurant. www.amanomadrid.com 3 Taberna Palo Cortado Paqui Espinosa pays tribute…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ Rivetto has become the first winery in Barolo and Barbaresco to be certified biodynamic by Demeter. The estate, located in the Barolo cru of Briccolina, underwent a 10-year transformation to meet Demeter’s biodynamic standards. Fourth-generation winemaker Enrico Rivetto sacrificed 1.2ha of vines in order to create a biodiverse estate, introducing other crops, 550 trees and donkeys. ■ A device that claims to pour the ‘perfect’ glass of wine has won an innovation award at the CES 2020 tech show in Las Vegas. The Albicchiere, or ‘Albi’, can be loaded with a wine bottle or a ‘smart bag’, which is said to keep wine fresh for six months. Early…

Andrew Jefford ‘It’s the site, not the soil, which is qualitative’ Aremarkable photograph: a soil pit dug into a vineyard, perhaps 1.5 metres deep, with about 70cm of rich, mixed topsoil, uncompacted but lively with organic matter. Then – clay. Solid clay. The pit had obviously been open for a while, and the vines above were in summer garb – hence the cracks in the clay, ‘big enough,’ said the photographer, ‘to put your hand in.’ No ordinary photographer, moreover: this was Jacques Fanet, former assistant director of both the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) and the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV), as well as author of Great Wine Terroirs, a useful geological adjunct to the understanding of wine globally. ‘If there weren’t vines there,’ Fanet added,…

Letter from Japan Roddy Ropner ‘Japan shows evidence of a country defining its own wine culture’ Lining the avenue to Tokyo’s Meiji shrine are 60 Burgundian oak barrels, stacked opposite a similar number of sake casks. Since the shrine was built to commemorate Emperor Meiji (who ruled Japan from 1867-1912) and sake plays a key role in Japan’s Shinto ceremonies, one might conclude that wine also has a prominent position. In the late 19th century, Japan modernised, and an interest in wine ensued. Today, wine is not a part of daily life for most people, but there is a significant wine culture that spans formal dining to casual drinking. France is central to Japanese wine culture. French cuisine, long seen as the pinnacle of western fine dining, helped cement the…

EXPRESSIONS OF NORTHWEST SPAIN The reds from this area are incredibly varied, but not always well known – despite the high price of the most famous. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW picks 20 from across the spectrum Northwest Spain consists of five regions, two distinctive climates and a little transition zone. The four regions facing the Atlantic ocean (Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia) are known as Green Spain. It rains a lot here – more than in England. There are many different types of soil, topography is very rugged and temperatures are mild. The grape varieties in this corner of Spain are original and indigenous, with ancient origins. It is believed that, at the time of the Romans, vineyards extended into the Atlantic and northern latitudes thanks to accidental crossings…

Ballesteros Torres recommends six top Albariños from Rías Baixas, Galicia 1 Pazo Barrantes, La Comtesse, Val do Salnés 2016 96 £38.99 Vintriloquy The know-how of one of Spain’s top white winemakers, Marqués de Murrieta, shows in this, one of the most genuine, complex Albariños. Fermentation and four months’ ageing in large oak vats has conferred aromatic complexity, with just a hint of wood, alongside ripe apricot and quince aromas and a lovely floral expression. Impressively built, retaining delicious juiciness. Drink 2020-2031 Alc 13.5% 2 Pazo Señorans, Selección de Añada, Val do Salnés 2010 94 £47.99 Alliance Wine,Davis Bell McCraith, Hennings, Museum Wines Intensely perfumed, with quince notes dominating apricot and floral aromas. There’s a rounded spicy touch from the 30 months this wine has spent ageing on its lees in…

Six of the best: Williams’ pick of the La Rioja Alta range Gran Reserva 890, Rioja 2005 96 £110-£145 Armit, Albion Wine Shippers, Amathus, BI Wines & Spirits, Hard to Find Wines, Harvey Nichols, Mumbles Fine Wines, Nemo Wine Cellars, South Downs Cellars, Tanners, The Oxford Wine Co Tempranillo with 5% of Graciano and Mazuelo. Blackcurrant and citrus-peel-like notes bring a pleasing touch of bitterness. Savoury too, coffee and a dusting of vanilla. Overall very harmonious and deep, with that utter pleasure that comes from age but not over-age – superbly polished, fine tannins and a peacock’s tail finish. Drink 2020-2050 Alcohol 13.5% 1 Gran Reserva 904, Rioja 2009 95 £42.50-£59.95 Armit*, Caviste, Connaught Cellars, Dunell’s, Hard to Find Wines, Harvey Nichols, Hic, Highbury Vintners, Hook & Ford, M Winestore,…

A taste of the top southern Rhônes Wines are listed by commune, from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Some 2018s have not been bottled yet, hence some prices, stockists and alcohol levels are not yet known. Contact specialist merchants for en primeur tastings Vinsobres 1 Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy, Confidence 92 Well-managed, well-judged oak (eight months in third-use barriques), adding a touch of juniper to the bay and olive-tinged black fruit. It’s full-bodied, but soft and juicy, with very ripe tannins. This has great authenticity, Vinsobres character and freshness, even with its relatively low acidity. The estate is in organic conversion. Drink 2020-2023 Alcohol 15% TOP VALUE Domaine Jaume, Altitude 420 92 £4.92 (ib) The Wine Society The fruit is ripe, gentle, smooth and fresh. Tannins…

The Spurrier selection Château L’Hospitalet, Grand Vin Blanc, La Clape, Languedoc, France 2018 92 £41.10 Hallgarten Wines, Hedonism Stylish, impressive blend of three Mediterranean varieties (Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino) blessed by the sun and cooled at night by sea breezes. Floral, summer fruits, lovely lifted southern flavours. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 15% Smith & Sheth, Cru, Omahu Cantera, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 2017 95 £49.99 Farr Vintners, Louis Latour Agencies Steve Smith MW has put his heart into this Gimblett Gravels three-varietal, co-fermented blend. Rich flavours, fine texture and natural tannic grip. Brilliantly seductive with a great future. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13% Quinta da Fonte Souto, Vinha do Souto, Portalegre, Alentejo, Portugal 2017 93 £47 The Wine Society The first Symington family venture outside the Douro. The 500m vineyards are planted…

RIOJA: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2019 Some very good wines, more difficult for young vineyards. Selection necessary. 2018 A complex year, with a cold, humid spring, then rain and hail in summer, with the risk of downy mildew and a long, late harvest. Needed much work in sorting and selection. Overall, wines with slightly lower alcohols. 2017 A very difficult year, with April frosts that swept northern Europe, followed by drought. One of the earliest vintages on record. 2016 The largest harvest since 2005. Good quality overall: well-balanced, approachable wines with good freshness. Some classic Riojas. 2015 A short, early harvest with good concentration. This year was the first follow-on to the top-quality 2010, with many charming, pretty wines. 2014 Better than 2013, though there was some rot at the end…

Panel tasting GARNACHA BLANCA Previously dismissed for producing high-alcohol, full-bodied wines, this native Spanish grape is undergoing a transformation thanks to innovative winemakers. Sarah Jane Evans MW reports Map: Maggie Nelson What a transformation! Thirty years ago there were more than 16,000ha of Garnacha Blanca in Spain, the majority in Catalonia with lesser amounts in Aragón, and almost insignificant quantities in Rioja and Navarra. By 2010 that overall figure had plummeted to just over 2,000ha. Thankfully today, Garnacha Blanca is fighting back against being substituted by more lucrative red varieties and whites with greater consumer appeal. It may still be relatively thin on the ground, but it adds a real point of difference to Spain’s portfolio of whites. Spain’s aromatic unoaked whites have become well established, its Albariños (see p48)…

THE JUDGES Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW A DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain, Ballesteros Torres is a regular contributor to Decanter and a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He is a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino and on the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union. Sarah Jane Evans MW One of our three DWWA Co-Chairs, Evans is a regular contributor to Decanter and an award-winning journalist and author, specialising in Spanish wines, food and culture. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, her most recent book is The Wines of Northern Spain. Pierre Mansour Mansour has worked in the wine trade for his entire career, starting in 1995 with the Antique Wine Company. In 2000 he joined The Wine Society…

Quick bites: five top Spanish restaurants you must visit EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA (see p123) Discover the best of modern creative alta cocina in an elegant, tranquil setting. LLISA NEGRA (see p123) Excellent paella Valenciana in suave surroundings by star chef Quique Dacosta, the King of Rice. ROMERIJO (see p123) Wonderful Andalusian seafood and ambrosial fried fish. ASADOR ETXEBARRI (www.asadoretxebarri.com) Superbly chosen and grilled meat in a beautiful countryside location outside Bilbao. LA NEGRA TOMASA (www.lanegratomasa.com) A Cuban restaurant in Madrid with live music. SoignŽ it’s not, but it’s as close to the atmosphere of Spain’s tropical cousin Havana as you’ll find in Europe.…

Market watch Top-end Bordeaux prices drop All the important fine wine investment news, compiled by Chris Mercer Bordeaux first growths have slipped down the order in a new market ranking, reflecting weaker prices for their wines. Châteaux Margaux, Lafite Rothschild, Haut-Brion and Mouton Rothschild dropped out of the top 10 in the latest Liv-ex Power 100 report, published in January, which is based on average prices for estates’ wines between 1 September 2018 and 31 August 2019. Château Latour held on to its 10th position from the previous ranking, published a year earlier. It was the only one of the five first growth estates not to see a slight decline in average prices during the evaluation period. Armand Rousseau rose from seventh place to first in the…

Decanter fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in green indicate those prices which have increased since last month, whilst the numbers in red have decreased. THE LIV-EX 100 INDEX Index level at end of December 2019 The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines –…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Gold but not deep gold, with an enticing scent of nuts, hay bales, mushroom and soft cream. It was still vivid, with plenty of acidity, yet the acidity was soft, mouthfilling, almost creamy in its own right: delicious. Aged Chablis? If you’d told me that, I’d have believed you, but the wine was in fact Guilbaud Frères, Le Clos du Pont, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, Loire 2012, aged in foudres. This met my test of ageworthiness: not only delicious, but clearly different from youthful versions. Bravo.…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Sparkling Grace, Blanc de Blancs 2013, from Yamanashi prefecture in Japan, is made by the traditional method. I tasted it twice recently, once at home and once at the winery. There was enough sunshine in the warm 2013 vintage to ripen the grapes fully, allowing lees ageing to be extended to five years. It has delicate brioche aromas and is lithe, crisp and lemon-fresh on the palate. Production was minuscule, at just 1,100 bottles, but it is a beautiful benchmark sparkling wine in Japan.…

Wine selection and conclusions In choosing my recommendations, I intentionally only tasted wines from the two sub-regions that excel in making dry varietal wines: Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço in Vinho Verde, and Albariño from Val do Salnés in Rías Baixas. Following the tasting, I came to a few conclusions: • Both regions have top-quality examples and potential for many more great wines; neither region can be deemed better than the other. • Both regions are experimenting with lees contact and barrel fermentation/maturation, in addition to producing pure, unoaked wines. To avoid confusion and help wine drinkers with their choice, producers should indicate winemaking practices clearly on the label. • While the inherent character and balance of top Alvarinho/Albariño wines from Iberia cannot be denied, we should expect – and…

Tempranillo TRANSFORMING TEMPRANILLO Over-zealous planting and heavy-handed use of oak haven’t done its reputation any favours, but Spain’s most widespread variety can make excellent wines. Sarah Jane Evans MW highlights the regions and producers helping Tempranillo reach its full potential To begin with a confession: when I started to study blind tasting, Tempranillo was the one red variety that I could rarely spot. Even now I sometimes have to circle round it and eliminate all the others first. Syrah, yes, Cabernet Sauvignon, always, Merlot and Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, no problem. I can even make a calculated guess at Nerello Mascalese. The problem – for me at least – is that Tempranillo is Spain’s most widely planted red, and has many different profiles. Since Spain is a mountainous country, with…

LA RIOJA ALTA AT A GLANCE 30,000 Number of barrels in use at the company’s wineries; 3,000 new barrels are made each year. 460ha The bodega’s total vineyard holdings in Rioja, with 415ha in Rioja Alta and 45ha in Rioja Alavesa. Bodegas The La Rioja Alta empire now takes in four bodegas: La Rioja Alta and Torre de Oña in Rioja; Bodega Aster in Ribera del Duero; and Lagar de Cervera in Rías Baixas. Production 100% made using the bodega’s own vineyards; in 1980, the company bought 70% of its grapes from partner growers.…

THIS MONTH’S PANEL TASTINGS Affordable Rioja £10-£20 & Garnacha Blanca WANT MORE? Decanter.com/ premium has full tasting notes for both panel tastings, plus exclusive tasting reports and more 92 Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above 93 Weekday wines By the Decanter team Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try, at £25 or under 97 Affordable Rioja £10-£20 183 wines tasted Once you conquer some confusion over the region’s evolving styles, there’s real quality at this price point 111 Garnacha Blanca 54 wines tasted It’s a lesser-known…

WEEKDAY WINES Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK priced at £25 or less Recommended by: James Button, Tina Gellie, Georgie Hindle, Julie Sheppard, Amy Wislocki and Sylvia Wu Yalumba, Craft 3 Sparkling Brut, South Australia 90 £10 Marks & Spencer This fizz, made from the three traditional Champagne grapes, has bready aromas, with green apple and citrus. Savoury, yeasty biscuit flavours join ripe, honeyed yellow apple. Good acidity balances a creamy texture from malolactic fermentation and lees ageing. SW Alcohol 12% Domaine Vincent Dampt, Chablis, Burgundy, France 2017 92 £22 Harrods An extra year in bottle has added complexity and…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT With plenty of high scores and notably consistent quality, Rioja can certainly perform at this price point. But recent changes in the region can mean confusion for wine lovers, says Julie Sheppard Rioja delivers in the £10-£20 price range. This tasting proved the point with its significant number of Highly Recommended and Recommended wines (53 and 109 respectively). ‘Overall I was really quite impressed,’ noted Pierre Mansour. ‘To me, a lot of these wines tasted like they were worth more than £20,’ added an equally approving Simon Field MW. Numerous highlights were identified. ‘The young wines were fresh, very appealing, with lovely cherry juice flavours – just the kind of thing you want by the glass,’ said Sarah Jane Evans MW. ‘And all the way through,…

GARNACHA BLANCA: THE FACTS Catalonia is where Garnacha Blanca flourishes and above all in Terra Alta, with lesser appearances in Priorat, Montsant, Alella, Empordà and Penedès. Terra Alta The heart of Garnacha Blanca – its 1,450ha here represent about 27% of the region’s vineyard. Terra Alta’s Garnacha Blanca accounts for 90% of Catalonia’s plantings, 75% of Spain’s and no less than one third of the world’s total supply. Priorat Some 60ha make Garnacha Blanca the leading white grape variety in this predominantly red-wine region, while in Montsant it makes up less than half the white varieties. Aragón About 250ha, across the Somontano and Cariñena DOs and Valdejalón. Navarra About 125ha, especially focused to the north of the DO. Rioja Just under 220ha: in 2018, 3.6% of white varieties planted and…

Expert’s choice MANZANILLA This distinctive dry Sherry can be light and fresh or punchy and characterful. Sarah Jane Evans MW recommends her favourite bottles across both styles and offers tips on storing and serving The ranking of these wines shows you exactly where my enthusiasms lie when it comes to manzanilla. I like wines with intensity and an appetising astringency. Unfortunately there is plenty – too much? – manzanilla in the marketplace that is watery in colour and in taste. These are inoffensive wines that have had the character and colour filtered out, so they won’t frighten off nervous Sherry drinkers. This light, summery white wine was meant to lure in new drinkers. In the end, though, those people chose Sauvignon Blanc, or even Pinot Grigio. Anything with a bit…

Shawn Hennessey MY MADRID From traditional tabernas to trendy tapas bars and bustling markets, Madrid’s food and drink culture is as expansive as the city itself. Get to know its varied neighbourhoods one by one, advises Shawn Hennessey Madrid can be an overwhelming experience, but it turns out that the trick to savouring Spain’s capital is to take it in bite-sized pieces. It took me several visits over the past 30 years to finally warm to what I at first felt was an impersonal, sprawling metropolis. Then I learned from friends who live here to take it barrio by barrio, and get to know the very different personalities of each neighbourhood. From trendy Malasaña to upscale Salamanca; from multicultural Lavapiés and hip Barrio de las Letras to traditional La Latina;…

Biondi Santi to release special-edition 2012 Brunello Riserva Biondi Santi has announced that its Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012 will carry a special-edition label in tribute to late head winemaker, Franco Biondi Santi, who died, aged 91, in 2013. Franco became head winemaker at Biondi Santi in 1970 – following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather – and is celebrated as a pioneer of Brunello wines. The 2012 Riserva will be released in March with a guide price of £460 per bottle. This marks a new release strategy for the estate, which only makes its Riserva in top vintages. ‘Our philosophy now is to… release the vintage when we think it is time for it to be enjoyed,’ said Tancredi Biondi Santi, Franco’s grandson. Reporting by Jess Lander…

Decenter WINE LEGENDS BODEGAS RODA, RODA I RESERVA 1994 Rioja, Spain A legend because… Roda was founded in 1987 by drinks distributors Mario Rotllant and Carmen Daurell, after a long search for the ideal base for their winemaking project. They eventually settled on the Rioja Alta region. They located their winery in the historic Haro Station District, and it soon made an impact with modern-style wines. The focus was on old vines, especially those cultivated as bush vines. Roda also differentiated between wines with a predominantly red-fruit character – labelled simply as Roda – and those with more balsamic black-fruit character, which were released as Roda I. This is a stylistic choice on the part of the winery, the goal being to create two different interpretations of Rioja. Looking back…