Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2015 i Decanter

France takes to (occasional) wine drinking Photograph: Per Karlsson, BKWine 2/Alamy Stock Photo FRANCE France is showing early signs of rediscovering its love affair with wine, with the number of teetotallers dropping for the first time in two decades. According to a government survey, growing numbers of young people and women are drinking an occasional glass of wine, after a 40-year period during which French wine consumption almost halved. The survey of 4,000 people by government-affiliated body FranceAgriMer found more French people were drinking wine than five years ago, with a six percentage-point rise in occasional wine drinkers, who made up 51% of all respondents. what is clear is that for a long time women and young people were not drinking at all, and they are now having an occasional…

What I’ve been drinking this month The 2013 Pouilly-Fumé from Château de Tracy was, I have to say, the best Sauvignon Blanc I‘ve drunk in recoverable and trustworthy memory, which probably means the last two or three years. Why? Because it wasn’t a ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ so much as a beautifully sappy, vibrant, softly green white wine. It made me realise that any wine grower who wants to produce truly great Sauvignon Blanc should be doing everything they can to mute, rather than amplify, its varietal characteristics. And that the Central Loire really is a great terroir for this grape.…

Hugh Johnson ‘It is naïve to be surprised by anything these days’ IT’S 39 YEARS, almost to the day, since I wrote my first article for Decanter. It was about finding value for money. So for continuity’s sake, here we go again. Once a year, these days, I taste and comment on 12 wines chosen by colleagues in the States as the ‘Wall Street Journal Dozen’. They represent their latest value-for-money haul from hundreds of wineries across the US. And each year they get more original and surprising. The geographical spread becomes wider, of course, and the list of grape varieties longer every year. Texas was in last year with a delicious Roussanne. Most still come from California, but the East Coast is gaining confidence by the minute. Jancis Robinson…

D’Agata’s top six from Italy Le Macchiole, Paleo, Bolgheri, Tuscany 2001 19.25 (97) £55 Richard Kihl From a shorter-than-usual harvest, half this wine spent 16 months in 225-litre barriques, half in 112-litre oak containers. It’s an unforgettable wine: a strawberry fruit cocktail with harmonious acidity and velvety smooth tannins. Drink 2015-2030 Alcohol 13.5% Duemani, Tuscan Coast, Tuscany 2010 18.5 (95) £52 Justerini & Brooks Suave, creamy and rich, with minerally red berry fruits, great structure and length. Irresistible! Drink 2015-2030 Alc 14% Tenuta di Biserno, Lodovico Antinori, Tuscany 2008 18.5 (95) £133-£150 Capital Vintners, Chelsea Vintners, Corney & Barrow, Paramount Vintners Opulent, decadent sweetly spicy raspberry and strawberry notes make for a memorable wine. Mostly Cabernet Franc with small additions of Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 15% Caiarossa,…

New Zealand Hans Herzog Photograph: Kevin Judd/Cephas Cameron Douglas MS is a wine writer, educator, judge, consulant and public speaker based in New Zealand ALTHOUGH CABERNET FRANC made its first appearance in New Zealand in the late 1800s it wasn’t until the 1960s that it was used in earnest to make serious Bordeaux styles. Today it represents just 0.03% (112ha) of total plantings, and is grown throughout the North Island (including Matakana, Waiheke Island, Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough) and most South Island regions – notably Marlborough and Canterbury. While it is commonly used in traditional red blends or rosés, producers are increasingly releasing single-varietal expressions or Cabernet Franc-led blends. The quest to find a perfect site to make fine wine is a well-worn story, yet it is exactly this that…

Tapia’s top six from South America Bodega Aleanna, Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Argentina 2011 19 (96) £33.33-£36.43 (2008) All About Wine, Exel This is a pure expression of the grape. Herbal notes covered by crunchy red fruit flavours with tension and texture. A refreshing and vivid wine. Drink 2015-2020 Alcohol 13% Zorzal, Piantao Piantao, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Argentina 2011 19 (96) £45.83-£50 Hawkshead Wines, House of Townend, Slurp From every angle this is refreshing and vibrant Cab Franc, filled with bright red fruit and subtle herbal tones. The texture feels tight, as the acidity gives light and energy. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.6% Andeluna, Pasionado, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Argentina 2009 18.25 (94) £28.32-£29.99 Invinity Wines, Strictly Wine Offering a different take on Cabernet Franc, this is…

Blue-chip Ribera del Duero: 12 of the best Emilio Moro, Malleolus de Sanchomart’n 2010 19.5 (98) £93 Christopher Keiller, Bordeaux Index, Nickolls & Perks, Rakuten UK, Wines @ West End A most refined, complex delicate, sinewy expression of an old-vineyard wine, this is deliciously harmonious. Iconic. Drink 2015-2035 Alcohol 14% P›rez Pascuas, Gran Selecci—n Gran Reserva 2009 19.25 (97) £149-£163 Bancroft, Capital Vintners, The Wine Society, Wine 360 The reference for classic La Horra, austere but deep, elegantly balanced, solidly built but suave. Keep it for a few decades if you can. Drink 2017-2040 Alc 14.5% Vega Sicilia, Unico Reserva Especial NV 19.25 (97) £200-£300 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Hedonism, WoodWinters A blend of 1994, 1996 & 2000. Loyal to its name: unique, special. Wonderfully complex; a wine…

Moët & Chandon MCIII Brut 001.14 Moët has contrived what might rank as the most complex recipe for a prestige cuvée yet. MCIII was first trialled in 2000, with a few experimental bottlings that ‘didn’t make it’. It’s a blend of wines that span 11 years, first vinified and aged in stainless steel, oak or glass, then matured on lees for a further 10 years. The blend that did make it is based on just over one-third of the 2003 vintage (50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay) and a little more than one-third of the 2002, 2000 and 1999 vintages combined, vinified in tanks and aged for five to seven months in 5,000-litre oak foudres. The last 25% comprises the 1999, 1998 and 1993 vintages of Moët’s Grand Vintage Collection…

A bit of history Photograph: David M. Benett/Getty Images According to André Simon’s History of Champagne, both ‘flûte’ and ‘coupe’ have been used ever since Champagne became a sparkling wine. Contrary to popular apocrypha, the coupe was created in London in 1663 rather than modelled on a female breast, variously that of Marie Antoinette, Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry. The most recent iteration of this popular myth was the 2014 Kate-Moss-moulded Dom Pérignon-Karl Lagerfeld collaboration. Nonetheless, Simon advocated tulip-shaped glasses as early as 1962.…

Fonseca: a timeline 1815 João dos Santos Fonseca buys his first wine 1816 The first Fonseca wine is exported 1820 Fonseca forms a partnership with José Gomes Monteiro 1822 An employee named Manuel Pedro Guimaraens establishes an agency in London to sell the wines of Fonseca & Monteiro 1863 The Guimaraens family assumes control of Fonseca and two years later creates Guimaraens & Co, retaining the brand name Fonseca for its Ports 1896 Pedro Francis ‘Frank’ Guimaraens takes responsibility for winemaking and supervises every vintage until 1948 1943 After suffering serious trading losses, the company accepts loans from Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman 1949 The company is sold to Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman 1955 Dorothy Guimaraens takes responsibility for the vintage 1956 Bruce Guimaraens, great-great-grandson of Manuel Pedro Guimaraens, joins Fonseca…

The “South Europe/ Mediterranean Wines” Campaign This is a joint project financed by the European Union along with Greece, Italy and Bulgaria. Its objective is to highlight wines from the region with Protected Denomination of Origin and with Protected Geographical Indication. It covers the Greek wine regions of Macedonia, Peloponnese and Crete, along with Italy’s Emilia Romagna and Bulgaria’s Thracian Lowlands. We want to introduce wine drinkers to a new experience that comes from the region where wine culture was born and spread around the globe. Enjoy responsibly!…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep First visit to British Columbia I was back home in Dorset to check on the progress (very late-ripening) of the Bride Valley vines after our usual August holiday in France and Italy for just a day before flying off to Vancouver for my first visit to the vineyards of British Columbia. It was a five-day trip of non-stop, eye-opening tastings in the Okanagan Valley’s stunning country: mountains, lakes and desert as well as vineyards and fruit orchards. I hope to cover it more fully in Decanter next year, but one of the high spots was the third annual BC Pinot Noir…

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 Consistent high quality and purity of fruit means this vintage is a showcase for the Sangiovese wines of this celebrated DOCG. It’s hard to go wrong, says Ian D’Agata Map: Maggie Nelson BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO is one of Italy’s most famous wines, highly sought after by wine lovers and collectors alike. Wine lovers appreciate its pure delivery of Sangiovese aromas and flavours – Brunello is 100% Sangiovese; notably, red cherry, redcurrant, liquorice, black tea leaf, violet, a hint of graphite. With refreshing acidity and noteworthy refinement, Brunello has more structure and size than, say, Chianti Classico. Thanks to its vibrant acidity, it is also an ideal food wine. But collectors seek out Brunello mainly because of its ageworthiness: its longevity is demonstrated by still-lively bottles dating…

The tasters’ verdicts Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is head sommelier at Galvin La Chapelle. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill and Lindsay House. He has also worked at Michelin-starred Umu. In 2009, he was named Sommelier of the Year by Taste of London, and was the winner of the Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy in 2010. Briccarello’s verdict ‘The anticipation for the 2010 was very high and I was really eager to taste the wines. I wasn’t disappointed: the wines were extremely good, full of personality and pure, charming flavours. The long ripening season resulted in wines packed with fruit for immediate enjoyment, but that are also very ageworthy. All the wines we tasted displayed a true and distinctive Sangiovese character,…

My top three Ian D’Agata • Salicutti, Piaggione Francesco Leanza has made some of Montalcino’s best wines of the last 20 years, in a modern but graceful style. He has studied his vineyards closely and will at times produce two different cru Brunellos. 18.25/20 (94/100) Drink 2017-2026 • Poggio di Sotto Now owned by Claudio Tipa of Grattamacco fame, this estate confirmed Castelnuovo dell’Abate as the source of rich yet potentially extremely refined Brunellos. The 1999 Riserva and the 2001 were the best of those vintages, and this 2010 doesn’t lag far behind. 17.5 (91) Drink 2017-2030 • Cupano Situated in one of the warmest parts of Montalcino, Cupano makes remarkably rich Brunellos not shy in flavour or alcohol, yet always possessing impeccable balance. Owner Lionel Cousin is a disciple…

Marsannay: know your vintages 2014 Potentially high quality. Hail proved damaging in certain areas. 2013 Challenging year with a cold, wet growing season. Lighter wines for early drinking. 2012 Small crop. Quality level high with good acidity, purity and elegant tannins. Drink or keep. 2011 Overshadowed by 2010 and 2009. Challenging year. Decent quality with fruit-driven wines. Drink. 2010 Exceptional quality. Wines of purity, acidity and verve. Low yields, so concentrated, ageworthy wines. Keep. 2009 Atypical but high quality and attractive. Relatively early drinking. 2008 Bright fruit character with vibrant acidity. Drink – good value. 2007 Some fine, many lean. Drink. 2006 Top producers made super wines. Otherwise variable. Drink. 2005 Concentrated, balanced long-lived wines. Drink or keep.…

Highly Recommended 17–18.25pts (90–94pts) Domaine Bart, La Montagne 2013 Decanter average score: 17.5/20pts(91/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Gearoid Devaney MS 17.5 Rob MacCulloch MW 17 Sebastian Thomas 18 N/A UK domaine.bart@wanadoo.fr Forwardly fruity nose matched by a palate that is bright with red fruit energy and persistence. Lovely layers of ripe redcurrants and savoury morello cherry with fine, gentle tannins, judicious oak and crisp acidity contributing to the smooth, rounded mouthfeel. There’s impressive finesse here. Drink 2015-2020 Alcohol 13%…

My top three Rob MacCulloch MW • Domaine Bart, La Montagne 2013 A delicious wine in the context of the so-so results, having ripeness, complexity, fine-grained tannins and well-integrated oak, even after 15 months’ maturation. There’s lots here and it’s balanced – a fine achievement given the vagaries of the vintage. 17/20 (90/100) Drink 2015-2020 • Domaine Audoin, Clos du Roy 2013 A lighter bodied, gentler wine than my other picks but closest to what I expected from Marsannay, as a wine style in between the delicate, savoury character of Auxerrois and the fuller styles from the Côte d’Or. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2020 • Dom Collotte, Les Champsalomon 2013 This wine still needs time, but even at this early stage it has complex layers of savoury fruit and fine, lengthy…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available denotes supermarket and high-street wines Akarua, Brut, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand NV 17 (90) £19.99 Liberty Wines Made by sparkling wine expert Dr Tony Jordan, this brilliant fizz delivers vibrant freshness and creamy mousse along with complex yeasty, nutty notes from 18 months’ lees contact in bottle. Fine texture, strawberry scent and delicate citrus notes, nicely balanced. Alcohol 13% Arlewood, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2014 17 (90) £18 The Wine Treasury, Wine Direct A charming and modern white Bordeaux blend. 60% of tank-fermented Sauvignon…

Italian Enoteca Turi, London ENOTECA TURI OPENED in 1990 as an above-average neighbourhood place and eventually expanded to a still above-average, moderately elegant pan-Italian restaurant with a notable wine cellar. Stick to the south: scallops on spicy chickpea puree (Puglia), turbot wrapped in potato shreds (Sicily), or salt-marsh saddle of lamb with smoked aubergine (Campania). The wine list is enthusiastically and informatively annotated (each wine gets a detailed, eloquent paragraph) – 350 bins, covering a span of regions and vintages. Apart from Champagne and Port, it’s all Italian, from the Dolomites to the southern shores of Sicily, carefully selected. There are familiar names such as Antinori, Gaja, Pieropan, Sartarelli, Mastroberardino and Tasca d’Almerita; plus vertical selections from Sassicaia and Ornellaia; and also less familiar gems from Caprai, Falesco, Princic, Gravner,…

Nina Caplan ‘You look at those wines and think, where is the soul?’ PINOT NOIR MAY reach the peak of its immense possibilities in Burgundy, but the Pinot paradox thrives in Australia as nowhere else. In the continent’s cooler regions, winemakers nurture a grape famed for its ability to express terroir: the soil it calls home. They then laud their wine as ‘the Burgundy of the southern hemisphere’ without seeming to notice the contradiction in this slavish attachment to a terroir 16,000km away. In the Yarra Valley, outside Melbourne, a handful of young winemakers have a better idea. ‘It’s funny,’ says Mac Forbes, ‘we’re supposed to be benchmarking against Burgundy, but I took a lot more out of working somewhere hostile like the Douro. Dirk [Niepoort] was looking for cooler…

Tasting notes decoded Structure The structure of a wine is based on components such as acid, tannin, and alcohol; for sweet or off-dry wines sugar also plays a role. It is the way these elements interact with each other that leads to a balanced or unbalanced product. It’s often very difficult to ensure, especially in a tough vintage, that all the structural components come together, and if the raw materials are not perfect then winemakers have extra work to do. They can add or remove acidity, temper tannins with oak maturation (though oak can also add tannin, especially with smaller barriques), and can remove alcohol, though not always legally. In good vintages – such as 2010 in Montalcino – it’s easier to find wines that have an impressive structure, thanks…

Collector’s corner Champagne Devaux Cuvée Sténopé 2008 £150 Berry Bros & Rudd Made by Devaux and Michel Chapoutier and taken from the French for ‘pinhole camera’, conceived as a snapshot of every vintage from a plot in Les Riceys. Only 3,400 bottles and 620 magnums have been made. Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2006 £140 Harrods A classic blanc de blancs sourced from Avize, Le Mesnil, Oger, Cramant and Chouilly. The first Comtes since the family regained control of the house. Champagne Gosset Grand Millésime 2006 £65-69 Berry Bros & Rudd, Fortnum & Mason, Hailsham Cellars An especially strong year for Pinot Noir, which makes up 56% of the blend (along with 44% Chardonnay).…

John Stimpfig ‘The thirst for experimentation and progress is intoxicating’ HAVING RETURNED FROM a week in the Cape, I can’t recall ever having been so enthused and enthralled by a wine trip. In my notebook, South Africa is now a strong contender for the world’s most improved and exciting wine nation, bar none. Its transformation is rapid and ongoing. The pace of change and achievement is staggering. It’s not just making exceptionally good wines at different price points, it’s also fashioning unusual, fascinating and delicious wines with a real sense of style and place. There is so much varietal innovation that it’s difficult to keep up. For instance, I tasted Vermentino, Assyrtiko, Mencia, Albarinho, Verdelho, Nero d’Avola and Tinta Barocca. In fact, 60 new varieties have been imported into the…

Around the wine world Torres hails revived grapes SPAIN Two red wine grapes brought back from the brink of extinction by Spanish wine group Torres could help the company manage the effects of climate change, it believes. Torres said the two grapes, Moneu and Gonfaus, have ‘great promise’ for red wine production, in the latest stage of a long-term project to investigate and resurrect around 40 historic Spanish varieties cultivated in Catalonia. While many are deemed unsuitable for wine blends, Torres is already using a couple of ancestral varieties – Querol and Garró – in its Grans Muralles blend. It thinks Moneu and Gonfaus could follow a similar path, and may be useful in dealing with the effects of climate change in Catalonia. ‘The Torres family discovered that these two…

Letter of the month Inside intelligence I THOROUGHLY ENJOYED Hugh Johnson’s article in your 40th Anniversary edition, and loved his tips on finding a good restaurant when in a strange area. We rented a house in the Var this summer and the owner, a delightfully eccentric British ex-pat who has lived in the area for 40 years, shared his own wisdom on the subject. ‘When in an unknown French town, head straight for the gendarmerie, seek out the fattest policeman present and ask him: “Monsieur, where do you take your wife for Sunday lunch?” This will guide you to the best value food in town – but be careful to ask where he takes his wife, and not his mistress!’ Not wanting to risk the wrath of the local gendarmes…

LETTER FROM SINGAPORE Ch’ng Poh Tiong ‘Without France, there is no Tan Swie Hian’ THIS YEAR, MY country commemorates the 50th anniversary of its independence when, on 9 August 1965, Britain relinquished sovereignty over Singapore. Celebrations will continue until the end of 2015. I timed the writing and publishing of My Friendship with Singapore’s Greatest Painter to coincide with the vintage, and launched the book at dinner on 9 July at Le Taillevent in Paris (see the November 2015 issue for an interview with its sommelier Jean-Marie Ancher). Chef Alain Solivérès’ first course of crab in a remoulade sauce was paired with Salon 2002, one of the greatest Champagne vintages in living memory. The smoky, rich fruit is still fresh 13 years on, and the grand cru Chardonnay from Le…

A toast to 40 years On 29 September, more than 70 of the wine world’s greatest names flew in to London from around the globe to celebrate Decanter’s 40th anniversary with an unforgettable lunch at Le Gavroche, paired with a stellar selection of wines Photographs: Catharine Lowe (www. cathlowe.com) & Nina Assam (www.ninaassam.com) 1 Paul Symington of Symington Family Estates and Philippe Sereys de Rothschild of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA 2 Christophe Salin of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Frédéric Rouzaud of Champagne Louis Roederer 3 Lilian Barton-Sartorius of Châteaux Langoaand Léoville-Barton with Sarah Kemp, Decanter’s publishing director, Olivier Bernard, president of the UGCB and owner of Domaine de Chevalier, and Aline Baly of Château Coutet 4 Michel Roux Jr, owner of Le Gavroche 5 José Alberto Zuccardi…

D’Agata’s top six from Bordeaux Château Lafleur, Pomerol 2010 19.5 (98) £700 L’Assemblage, Wilkinson Vintners The 62% Cabernet Franc shines through, with refined aromas and flavours of red berries, minerals, cocoa and violet. This Lafleur has the silkiest tannins of the vintage. Drink 2025-2055 Alcohol 13.5% Château Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion 1996 18.5 (95) £250-£467 Bordeaux Vintners, Hedonism, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Peter Wylie At 56% Cabernet Franc, this is a bright, floral Cheval Blanc, with white pepper, strawberry, mineral and oriental spice notes lingering nicely. Drink 2015-2036 Alc 13.5% Château Hosanna, Pomerol 2010 18.25 (94) £110 Bordeaux Index, Corney & Barrow, Private Cellar High-quality, 40-year-old Cab Franc planted on fine gravelly soil gives Cheval Blanc-like results. The 2010 is the best Hosanna ever, offering fragrant raspberry, blackcurrant, espresso and soy…

Loire Château de Villeneuve Jim Budd is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for the Loire JEAN-PIERRE CHEVALLIER IS single-minded in his pursuit of quality for both his Saumur-Champigny (100% Cabernet Franc) and Saumur Blanc (Chenin Blanc). His vigneron parents bought the 25-hectare Château de Villeneuve in Souzay-Champigny in 1969. They restored the château, which in part dates from 1577, and 12 years ago bought back the cellars under the château from sparkling wine house Veuve Amiot. Work has started on installing a vinification plant ready for the 2016 vintage; previously the wines were made in the neighbouring commune. In 1993 Chevallier took full control. He marked his arrival with the first release from the five-hectare Le Grand Clos vineyard – now consistently one of the Loire’s top Cabernet…

Douglas’ top six from NZ Hans Herzog, Cabernet Franc, Marlborough 2008 18.5 (95) POA Direct order via enjoy@herzog.co.nz A seriously complex Cab Franc. Floral and deeply scented, this shows aromas of plum, liquorice and black fruits, developing notes of leather, toasty oak, old vanilla, crushed rose and dried herbs. Firm and fine tannins complement a lovely balancing acidity. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14% Puriri Hills, Pope, Clevedon, Auckland 2008 18.5 (95) POA Direct order via +64 9 292 9264 A blend of Cabernet Franc with Merlot and Carmenère. Complex bouquet of plum and blackberry fruit, rose, herbs and sweet hay. The palate is packed with liquorice and spice, macerated cherry and sweet oak. Incredibly flavourful, dry and dense, with a long finish. Drink 2015-2025 Alc 14.2% Gillman Vineyard, Cabernet Franc-Merlot-Malbec, Matakana,…

Great quality and value under £30 Finca Villacreces 2011 18.25 (94) £29.99 widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines This wine could also be in my 12 greatest Riberas. Delicious, complex, finely sewn, open. Top quality, and at a bargain price. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 14% Bodegas Valduero, Crianza 2012 18 (93) £15.49-£21.95 KWM, The Wine Shop NI, Wine Time at Scatchards Classic and balanced in style, with good integration of oak aromas. Velvety and suave, this is best enjoyed with food. Drink 2015-2025 Alc 14% Sei Solo, Preludio 2012 18 (93) £19-£30 City Wine Collection, Hedonism, Justerini & Brooks With all the character of a terroir wine, sound backbone and open finish. Affordable access point to the great Ribera wines. Drink 2015-2025 Alc 14.5% Alonso del Yerro 2011 17.75 (92)…

Stelzer’s dream dozen prestige cuvées Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 2002 19.75 (99) £104-£130 Berry Bros & Rudd, Carruthers & Kent, Champagne Direct, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, James Nicholson, Solent Cellar, Uncorked This vintage has begun to open magnificently since its release, displaying remarkable complexity, yet at every moment clinging to impeccable elegance, coiled focus of malic acid tension and exhilarating chalk mineral texture. Delightful poise and intricate craftsmanship proclaim one of the great Billecarts of the modern era. Drink 2015-2042 Alcohol 12% Pierre Péters, Les Chétillons, Cuvée Spéciale Blanc de Blancs 2008 19.75 (99) POA Fields Morris & Verdin Les Chétillons articulates its mineral birthplace with greater precision than anywhere in Champagne outside the thundering single vineyards of Krug itself, and no vintage expresses this more exhilaratingly than 2008. Its…

Sparkling secrets Looking for something delicious but affordable to crack open over the festive season? Susie Barrie MW introduces a world of top-quality bubblies, and picks her top 25 under £25 IN 2015 ONE particular style of sparkling wine hit the headlines more than any other: Prosecco. For the first time, UK supermarket shoppers spent more on Prosecco than on Champagne and there were worldwide, midsummer scare stories that stocks would dry up before the new wines went on sale in October. Even the Daily Mail got in on the act, citing a report that suggested Prosecco had overtaken Champagne as the most popular choice of sparkling wine at weddings. Our love affair with Italy’s favourite fizz is certainly not new: I remember writing about how fashionable Prosecco was becoming…

Anson’s pick: top buys from Duhart-Milon & Clerc Milon Château Duhart-Milon 2005 18.5/20 (95/100) £60-£82.50 Goedhuis & Co, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Morgan Classic, The Wine Society Smoky, grilled almonds on the nose, liquorice on first attack, excellent acidic backbone, plenty to hang the fruit off. Still unfurling after five minutes in the glass. This is so incredibly tight and youthful at 10 years old, a wonderful expression of the vintage and the appellation. Give it just a few more years. Drink 2017-2035 Alcohol 13% Château Duhart-Milon 2014 18.25 (94) £33(ib)-£42.33 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare, Laithwaites, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet, Nickolls & Perks, The Wine Co This is silky, plush, confidently extracted, a supremely elegant wine that you would really…

Mayson’s choice: six benchmark Fonseca Ports Fonseca 1963 19.5/20(98/100) £191.67-£230 L’Assemblage, MWH Wines, Wilkinson Vintners Served at the bicentenary dinner in June, I was served from two bottles. One was fragrant and floral, sweet and elegant with gentle tannic grip, but soft and redolent of a tawny on the finish. The other, on which I base this score, had the focus and dark chocolate intensity one would expect from this great year. Spellbinding depth, with bitter chocolate and thick-cut marmalade in perfect balance. Drink 2015-2040 Alcohol 20% Fonseca 1985 19 (96) £85 Direct Wines, Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols, Hennings, Highbury Vintners, Le Vignoble, Majestic, Millésima, Private Cellar, Vanquish Wines, Vintage Wine & Port, Waitrose A troublesome vintage for many shippers, but Fonseca 1985 never fails to impress: tight-knit, dense…

Vintage report New Zealand Pinot Noir 2014 This vintage is set to trump the excellent 2013, offering more complexity, depth and promise, and the same lush, pure fruit, structure and balance. Cameron Douglas MS gives the low-down on the regions and recommends his top 30 buys Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to The New Zealand Cellar (www.thenewzealandcellar.co.uk) and New Generation Wines (www.newgenerationwines.com) for the loan of the bottles NEW ZEALAND PINOT Noir fans will be pleased to learn that wines from the 2014 vintage have the potential to equal – if not surpass – the very successful 2013s. Winemakers are tap-dancing at the results, and the 30 wines recommended here give support to that enthusiasm. Many of the highlights are from boutique or small producers, and/or organically or biodynamically managed…

Steven recommends... Dr Loosen, Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2014 17 (90) £14.95-£5.99 widely available via ABS Wine Agencies Grown on high terraces with red slate soil that gives it inherent vigour, this fine 2014 has a lovely early summer florality and fine purity. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 8% Casa Marin, Estero Vineyard Sauvignon Gris, San Antonio, Chile 2014 17 (90) £17.99 jamie@casamarin.cl From granite soils at 30m-170m near the Pacific Ocean, a cool breeze refines Pinot Gris’ natural richness, leaving a perfect blend of fruit and acidity lifted by fine oak. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 14% Miguel Torres, Reserva de Pueblo País, Itata Valley, Chile 2013 17 (90) £9.99 Grape & Grain, Hoults, Noel Young, Slurp, The Wine Shop, Vagabond Wines, Vintage Marque From the cool south, this local grape…

Brunello: know your vintages 2012 The season began cool, but summer was very hot and dry. Some producers believe it to be a potentially outstanding vintage, but tannins of some (unfinished) wines seem drying. 2011 An extremely hot year, which makes for early accessibility, highish alcohol and ripe flavours. 2010 High acidity, silky tannins, gorgeous red fruit and sweet spice flavours: 2010 is certainly memorable. The only caveat is the slightly high alcohol levels in many wines. 2009 Underrated year, offering plenty of early appeal. The warm weather blurs some of Brunello’s distinctiveness and site-specificity. 2008 Another underrated year, typified by classic, high acid and somewhat austere wines. 2007 Overrated year (but nothing like 1997). Showy wines, but tannins and alcohol levels are questionable. 2006 Very powerful, tannic and high-acid…

Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts) La Togata Decanter average score: 18.75/20pts (95+/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 18.5 Ian D’Agata 18.5 Michael Garner 19.25 £35.50 TryWines Expertise Owned by a Rome-based lawyer, La Togata has always made solid wines that in 2010 seem better than ever. The estate is located next to the castle of Argiano in Montalcino’s southern sector and wines are always made in an opulent, rich, round style, though never over the top, with a creamy yet precise mouthfeel that is extremely impressive and very Sangiovese. This 2010 is the best wine La Togata has ever made. Andrea Briccarello Spicy and smoky, showing perfumed black cherry aromas. Juicy and ripe, with smoky-toned red and black fruit flavours. Good flesh and substance; long and well balanced. Ian D’Agata Clean,…

My top three Andrea Briccarello • Marchesato degli Aleramici This was an outstanding wine that took my breath away; the meaty notes are intertwined with a generous amount of red forest fruits, making this wine really stand out from the rest of the field. It’s a textbook Sangiovese, showing huge complexity and structured layers of flavour, with cherries and spices. Oozing grace. 18.75/20 (95+/100) Drink 2017-2030 • La Lecciaia Scrumptious and intense on the nose, shows excellent fruit complexity and elegance. The tannins are firm but add a touch of rusticity to the wine; this is still a bit young, but should give its best in a few years. Elegance in a glass. 18 (93) Drink 2018-2030 • Uccelliera This incredible example of traditional winemaking showed some dark, deep animal…

Expert summary: Ian D’Agata The uniform success of the 2010 vintage across this Tuscan DOCG presents an ideal opportunity to discover some impressive wines from less well-known names A VERY INTERESTING set of results. On the one hand, the scores of 16.5 or more for almost all the wines show that the vintage was a great one. However, some estates did less well than expected. The team that covers nearly all of Decanter’s Italian wine tastings has been together for years and is remarkably comfortable in working and analysing wines as a unit, with little disagreement: in the past, for example, wines that are notoriously difficult to taste young (such as Biondi-Santi’s high-acid efforts) have clocked in at number one, so that estate’s poor result this time around is really…

The results Our tasters were not generally impressed with these wines. Marsannay is a good-value appellation but its secondary status in Burgundy was evident in this line-up of mostly 2013s. Amy Wislocki reports WHEN I KNOW I’ll be tasting Pinot Noir all day, I think I’m in for a good day – but the tasting didn’t live up to my expectations,’ rued Gearoid Devaney MS. ‘As a consumer, Marsannay is somewhere you’d look for value, for everyday drinking and home cellaring, as areas such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny become more expensive. I hoped to find attractive, cool, dark berry fruit, some earthy sous-bois character and minerality. That didn’t come across at all.’ Rob MacCulloch MW expanded on what benchmark Marsannay should provide. ‘It will never attain the heights of…

Recommended 15–16.75pts (83–89pts) Fair 13-14.75pts (76-82pts) • Charles Audoin, Les Favières 2013 14.75 (82) • Domaine Ballorin & Fils, Les Echezots 2013 14.75 (82) • Domaine Collotte, En Combereau 2013 14.75 (82) • Dupont-Tisserandot 2013 14.75 (82) • Domaine Jean Fournier, St-Urbain 2013 14.25 (80+) • Ghislain Kohut, En Champs Perdrix 2012 14.25 (80+) • Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Clos du Roy 2011 14.25 (80+) • Domaine du Vieux Collège, Les Clos du Roy 2013 13.75 (79) • Domaine du Vieux Collège, Les Récilles 2013 13.75 (79) • Champy 2013 13.5 (78) Poor 11–12.75pts (70-75+pts) • Georges Lignier et Fils 2013 12.75 (75+) • Louis Max 2011 12.5 (75) For full UK stockist details, see p123 Next month’s panel tastings Sauternes & Barsac 2011/2013, Gigondas and Brut Nature &…

My top three Sebastian Thomas • Domaine Bart, La Montagne 2013 The uncle and nephew team of Martin and Pierre Bart are true terroiristes, producing nine different red Marsannays, as well as a white and a rosé. This one is particularly lovely, and managed to bring out the best qualities of the 2013 vintage. 18/20 (93/100) Drink 2015-2020 • Huguenot, Champs-Perdrix 2013 This domaine also has holdings in Fixin and Gevrey, including some grands crus. Philippe, who took over the estate in the early 2000s, rapidly went organic. This classy wine is from some of Marsannay’s best vineyards. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2022 • Domaine Sylvain Pataille, La Combe 2012 Pataille is a big hitter in Marsannay. He leases most of this vineyards but is a qualified oenologist and consults for…

Madiran Great progress here over the past 25 years has seen these tannic Tannat ‘monsters’ tamed into wines of great purity and perfume, says Andy Howard MW HIDDEN AWAY IN the southwest corner of France lie some vineyards which, although largely unknown on the world stage, can offer the discerning wine drinker great quality, diversity and individuality. In fact, the whole of southwest France is the source of intriguing wines – from the dark Malbec of Cahors to the obscure enclaves of Irouléguy, Béarn and Tursan. Among these is arguably the source of the area’s finest wines – the underrated, quality-focused appellation of Madiran. A wine-producing region since Roman times, Madiran has witnessed many dramatic changes in fortune over the past 100 years, from simply being used to beef up…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Adnams Southwold, Suffolk (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Ake & Humphris (www.akeandhumphris.co.uk) Aldi (www.aldi.co.uk) Alexander Wines, Glasgow (www.alexander-wines.co.uk) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amathus, London (www.amathusdrinks.com) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps Fine Wines (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda, Leeds (www.asda.co.uk) Asset Wines, London (www.assetwines.com) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Aubert & Mascoli (www.aubertandmascoli.com) Aurum Wine Cellars (www.aurumwinecellars.com) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Bay Tree Wine Co, Cardiff (www.baytreewine.com) Bentleys Wine, Ludlow (www.bentleyswine.com) Berkmann, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Bibendum, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Blanco & Gomez, London (020 7352 8680) Blast Vintners, London (www.blastvintners.com) Bordeaux Index (www.bordeauxindex.com) Bordeaux Vintners, Essex…

At your service: Jonas Sandberg is head sommelier at Fäviken Magasinet, Fäviken 216 830 05 Järpen Tel: +46 (0)647 401 77 www.faviken magasinet.se If I was dining at your restaurant, what is the one dish I should order? Which wine/s would you recommend with it and why? Among our appetisers is braised pig’s head. This soft-textured, bold-flavoured little ball of meat is skewered on a birch stick, dipped in sour dough batter and deep fried, served with a thin slice of rhubarb and tarragon salt. With this I like to serve a Champagne from Ulysse-Colin, based in Congy, just south of Epernay. Les Pierrières Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut has 2010 as base vintage, and is a terrific expression of energetic Chardonnay grown on chalk and clay top-soil over carbonated flint.…

Hammer highlights • Zachys, New York, 17-18 September 12 bottles of Mouton Rothschild 1982 sold for $17,150 (high estimate: $16,000); six bottles of Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin 1991 $19,600 (high e: $18,000); six magnums of Latour 2009 $17,150 (high e: $16,000); one bottle of Hanyu Ichiro’s Malt King of Hearts 23 Year Old single malt $3,920 (high e: $2,000); six bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) La Tâche 2000 $17,150 (high e: $14,000); four bottles of Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 2009 $12,250 (high e: $8,500). • Christie’s, London, 1 October Three bottles of DRC Romanée-Conti 2009 sold for £25,850 (high e: £24,000); 24 bottles of Cheval Blanc 2009 £11,163 (high e: £12,000); 24 bottles of Haut-Brion 2009 £9,400 (high e: £10,000); 12 bottles of Latour 2009 £7,990 (high e: £9,000); three…

Early signs of a great 2015 vintage by Richard Woodard Photograph: Jean-Bernard Nadeau/Cephas EUROPE Early reports suggest that 2015 could be a vintage to remember across Europe and beyond – but warm, dry conditions could impact yields and restrict volumes. Producers were dusting off the superlatives in winemaking regions from Rioja to Germany, while California reported great potential, in an early and low-volume harvest. In Bordeaux, four out of the five hurdles for a great vintage identified by winemaking consultant Professor Denis Dubourdieu had been cleared, with the fifth – good weather during harvest – looking promising as Decanter went to press. Burgundy has the potential to produce a ‘great’ vintage, although a cooler August may prevent 2015 from scaling the heights of the finest years. The consensus in Champagne…

In brief Beaujolais winemakers and négociants have agreed prices for the 2015 harvest – but discontent has continued following protests by producers. An unofficial agreement states that négociants will buy bulk wine for Beaujolais-Villages and primeurs 2015 at a minimum €200 per 100 litres – equivalent to about €1.50 per bottle. Producers are unhappy with pricing because of this year’s high quality and low yields. Billionaire wine collector Bill Koch has had his court victory against Eric Greenberg for selling fake wine upheld. The verdict by the 2nd US Circuit Court of Appeals in New York follows an award to Koch of US$12.4m in April 2013, after Koch accused fellow wine enthusiast Greenberg of knowingly selling 24 fake bottles of Bordeaux at a 2005 Zachys auction. Treasury Wine Estates has…

Andrew Jefford ‘Wine may end up costing more; old-vine cuvées will become rarer’ BRITAIN’S POPULATION IS about 63.5 million, each enjoying a life expectancy of 81.5 years. Now imagine that almost one million showed the symptoms of a fatal, wasting and easily transmissible illness that would kill them before age 40, and that had asymptomatically infected many more. This would constitute a national emergency unparalleled since medieval times. We would talk of nothing else, and live in fear; health services and civil order would be near breakdown. That, in all likelihood, is the situation the world’s vineyards now find themselves in. Since vines don’t talk and vinegrowers are only slowly waking up to this threat, we haven’t heard much of it yet. The fatal illness is not one but several,…

What I’ve been drinking this month The showstopper at our dinner was Château Mouton-Rothschild 1990 . In the words of Mouton’s director Philippe Dhalluin: ‘It is one of the ripest vintages with an extreme expression of Cabernet Sauvignon (81% of the blend). After a spicy attack, you have a well-structured body built on ripe, almost jammy fruit flavours with silky, rounded tannins and fine oak with a lot of freshness.’ Mouton, symbolised by the ram, is the natural choice to celebrate my book on Tan Swie Hian (born in 1943, Year of the Goat) and Singapore’s 50th birthday in 2015, also a Year of the Goat.…

Cabernet Franc: the next big thing It has been misidentified, misunderstood and misused for years, but finally the ‘other Cabernet’ is set to take its place in the spotlight. Ian D’Agata charts its resurgence and, with three other experts, recommends 30 of the best examples from France, Italy, New Zealand and South America Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Corney & Barrow (www.corneyandbarrow.com), Slurp (www.slurp.co.uk) and The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) for the loan of the bottles I LOVE CABERNET Franc. It’s a variety long overshadowed by Cabernet Sauvignon, but the best wines are far more aromatic and perfumed than their more famous relative, displaying raspberry, blackcurrant leaf, violet and cocoa notes, and showcasing a unique sultry sweetness and velvety mouthfeel. Unfortunately, for most of the 20th century, Cabernet Franc was…

Budd’s top six from the Loire Château de Villeneuve, Le Grand Clos, Saumur-Champigny 2011 18.5 (95) £21-£31.10 Christopher Keiler, Hedonism Richly textured, soft black fruits with a touch of toastiness, supple tannins and structure. Can be enjoyed now but further complexity will develop with another two or three years in bottle. Drink 2015-2035 Alc 13% Lamé Delisle Boucard, Cuvée Prestige, Bourgueil 2010 18 (93) £15 Christopher Keiler, Reserve, Twenty Wines From a very good vintage, this is simply delicious. Soft, mouthfilling texture of black fruits balanced with a fresh finish. Wines from this domaine have a remarkable propensity to age. Drink 2015-2035 Alc 13% Château de Targé, Saumur-Champigny 2011 17.5 (91) £10.99 Majestic Long-established estate. Lovely fragrant, soft bright raspberry fruit, silky texture. Delicious to drink now but will age…

Argentina Bodega Aleanna Patricio Tapia is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for Argentina YOU MIGHT THINK that all the hype about Cabernet Franc in Argentina is, to borrow from Shakespeare, much ado about nothing. Of the country’s 200,000ha of vineyards, only about 700ha are Cabernet Franc. In the recent tastings for my South American wine guide, Descorchados, I tasted 1,300 Argentinian wines, but a mere 40 were from this variety. So, why all the fuss? The little Cabernet Franc that is produced in Argentina is surprisingly very good, and sometimes superb – it seems that producers have finally found a worthy companion to Malbec, until now the standard bearer for the whole country’s wine industry. In the late 1990s, Bodega Catena Zapata decided to plant Cabernet Franc at…

Ribera: know your vintages 2014Although the DO qualified 2014 as ‘muy buena’, in reality it is no more than good. For now, the young wines are delicious. 2013Arguably, the worst of the century. Lots of botrytis and irregular ripening. As usual, top wines from best estates are good. 2012A difficult vintage, with small production and uneven quality. The best wines are impressively balanced. Many others will be short-lived. 2011Very hot, ripe year, with lots of heat stress. Wines from old-vine vineyards are gorgeous. Overall, less balanced than 2010. 2010The dream vintage. Great ageing capacity for the best wines. 2009Warmer than 2010, with lower acidities and some wines lacking balance. The best are great, but many will soon begin to fade. 2008Small harvest. Summer temperatures cooler than normal. Top wines balanced…

Barrie’s top 25 sparkling wines to try Photograph: Andrey Burmakin/Alamy Stock Photo Domaine Huet, Pétillant Brut, Vouvray, Loire, France 2009 18.5/20 (95/100) £19.50-£20 Armit, Exel, The Wine Society, WoodWinters Vivid, rich scents of honey-glazed apple lead the way in this deliciously characterful fizz. Although dry, it is broad and mouthfilling with Chenin’s typically intense acidity providing balance and ageability. Drink 2015-2017 Alcohol 13% Roederer Estate, Quartet, Anderson Valley, California, USA NV 18.5 (95) £19-£25 Adnams, Davy & Co, Exel, Forth Wines, Harrods, Hedonism, Inverarity Morton, James Nicholson, Le Vignoble, The Drink Shop, The Wine Society, The Wright Wine Co With its classic brioche aromas and fine, fresh mousse, this consistently excellent performer is the closest I have tasted to the real deal. Beautifully harmonious, multi-layered and long, it’s one for…

Douglas’ top 2014 NZ Pinots Wines are listed from north to south Auckland Kumeu River, Hunting Hill, Kumeu 18 (93) £19 Farr Vintners, Lay & Wheeler Complex, alluring bouquet of very red & black cherry, sweet plum and raspberry, generous oak layer, savoury moments. Dry, savoury, intensely fruity, firm ripe tannins, plenty of acidity and great bones. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Wairarapa The Elder, Martinborough 18.5 (95) £33 Must Wines Savoury, silty, mineral beginning, red fruits led by cherry and strawberry, bracken, dried herb, very complex. Palate facsimile of nose. firm to fine tannins, well-judged oak, backbone of acidity, long finish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14% Urlar, Select Parcels, Gladstone 18.25 (94) POA Berry Bros & Rudd Definitively complex, silty mineral and fragrant dried herbs, baking spices, macerated red fruits medley…

DECANTER RECOMMENDED BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Pian delleVigne - Marchesi Antinori www.piandellevigne.it E: piandellevigne@antinori.it UK: Berkmann Wine Cellars www.berkmann.co.uk USA: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates www.ste-michele.com La Togata www.brunellolatogata.com E: info@brunellolatogata.com UK:TryWines Expertise Limited (Mr. Edoardo Amadi) USA:Tellitalia Imports, Colorado; Caput Mundi, Florida; Panebianco LLC, New York Le Macioche www.lemacioche.it E: info@lemacioche.it UK:The Top Selection of Wines, London USA:Tradizione Imports, New York Col di Lamo www.coldilamo.com E:coldilamo@alice.it UK: Stone Wine and Sun, Hampshire SO 21 1 QA USA:Wine West Molino di Sant’Antimo www.molinosantantimo.com E: info@molinosantantimo.com Contact: giulia.vittori@molinosantantimo.com USA: Massanois Imports LLC, 10016 NewYork Castiglion del Bosco www.castigliondelbosco.com E: wine@castigliondelbosco.com UK: Maisons Marques et Domaines UK USA: Maisons Marques et Domaines USA…

The results Ripeness and accessibility are the buzzwords for the 2010 Brunellos. While they may not be wines for the very long haul, our panel’s high ratings reflect an exceptional level of success, says John Stimpfig THIS WAS CLEARLY a much-anticipated tasting by all three Decanter experts. ‘Primarily, because it was possibly the most hyped vintage ever in Montalcino,’ said Michael Garner. ‘So I wanted to see if all the lavish praise was justified. And having tasted nearly 100 wines, there’s no question that it’s more than worthy.’ Ian D’Agata was in no doubt: ‘On this evidence, I’d rate 2010 as one of the top three vintages in Montalcino of the last 50 years, along with 1999 and 2001.’ Andrea Briccarello was equally enthusiastic: ‘The fact that we gave five…

Highly Recommended 17–18.25pts (90–94pts) Celestino Pecci 18.25 (94) AB 18.5 IDA 18.5 MG 17.5 N/A UK www.celestinopecci.com Very deep, brooding nose of floral red cherry, macerated plums, minerals and sweet spices. The palate shows plenty of personality yet is soft and mellow, with charming, rounded tannins and a fine, elegant finish. Outstanding stuff: this ought to develop splendidly. Drink 2017-2035 Alc 14.5% Salicutti, Piaggione 18.25 (94) AB 18 IDA 18.25 MG 18.25 £39.95 Four Walls Wine Co Clean leather and animal characters on the nose with hints of balsamic. Suave and balanced on the palate, with juicy bramble and loganberry fruit flavours. Already accessible with good texture and plenty of power and poise. Drink 2017-2026 Alc 14.5% Il Palazzone 18 (93) AB 18.5 IDA 18 MG 17.5 £31.50 Fine &…

My top three Michael Garner • Col di Lamo One of the real joys of such a reliable vintage is the freedom to experiment with new names. I had not heard of Col di Lamo before – apparently a small, determined one-woman band operation – but I loved the sheer exuberance of this wine. It’s built to last too. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2017-2030 • La Torre This small and relatively unknown producer’s Rosso di Montalcino stood out at our panel tasting earlier this year, and the Brunello is equally exciting: impressive aromatic development and structure. 18.5 (95) Drink 2018-2030 • San Polo Another small producer with vineyards above Castelnuovo dell’Abate. While many of the more interesting wines were produced to a fairly traditional formula, this example shows how good the…

The tasters’ verdicts Gearoid Devaney MS Devaney works at Flint wines, an independent, London-based merchant. He has worked as a sommelier for restaurants including London’s Capital Hotel, l’Oranger and Tom Aikens as well as Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. He was UK Sommelier of the Year 2008, and is now a Master Sommelier. Devaney’s verdict ‘Well, what a tasting that turned out to be! I had high hopes of some pure and understated 2013s, but it was a difficult tasting from a tricky vintage. ‘In that year July and August were not easy – wet and hardly any sun – but the conditions did improve in September. It was a year of hard work in the vineyards and meticulous work in the winery. And at the time of tasting (mid-August), these…

My top three Gearoid Devaney MS • Domaine Bart, La Montagne 2013 Pierre Bart is the sixth generation in charge of this Marsannay domaine, taking over in 2009. His favours traditional winemaking: natural yeasts and only 25% aged in oak. La Montagne is high on the forest line, facing directly south, which brings good sunshine. 17.5 (91/100) Drink 2015-2020 • Domaine Audoin, Clos du Roy 2013 Cryil Audoin came back to the family domaine in 2000. The style here is soft and approachable. Charles, his father, had been bottling single-vineyard Marsannay in the 1970s and ’80s before Marsannay was an AC (since 1987). Clos du Roy is east facing above the village of Chenove. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2020 • Domaine Trapet Père et Fils 2012 Trapet acquired its first Marsannay…

Expert summary: Andy Howard MW Don’t discount Marsannay on the basis of these scores. It’s a developing appellation offering good value red Burgundy, particularly from its named vineyard sites SCORING MAY NOT appear generous, with the one Highly Recommended the highest-rated of 68 wines. Several factors should be considered, to balance the view that this was a disappointing result. Firstly, 80% of the wines were Recommended – when the relative value of Marsannay is taken into account, this is a good showing. In addition, all bar 10 of the wines were from the challenging 2013 vintage, which produced lighter and less profound wines than 2009, 2010 or 2012. There are welcome signs that this is a developing appellation with which consumers should become better acquainted. Marsannay includes 65 named climats…

Howard’s top 18 wines to try Château Montus, La Tyre 2010 18.5/20 (95/100) £75-£99 Millésima, Thorman Hunt, Woodwinters Massive concentration allied with delicacy and subtlety. Aromas of warm earth, wild flowers, black fruits and a pot-pourri of spices. Lovely ripe fruits and balance despite the high alcohol. Spectacular. Drink 2016-2030 Alcohol 15.5% Château Boucassé, Vieilles Vignes 2010 18.25 (94) £28-£31 New Street Wine Shop, Thorman Hunt, Vin Cognito, Woodwinters Elegant, lifted aromas of red fruits, spring flowers and warm, crushed rocks. Smooth, velvety palate with a delicious mix of dark fruit and classy new oak. Vines up to 100 years old. Top quality. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5% Château de Gayon, Dou Hauret 2011 18 (93) N/A UK www.chateaudegayon.com Exotic spices allied with fresh, dark, black fruit on the palate. Sumptous…

READER OFFER Henry Wong Nestled in the heart of Harborne is Henry Wong, a modern Cantonese restaurant with a diverse menu that has provided an outstanding culinary experience to customers for the past 30 years. Executive chef Ricky Wu uses traditional techniques with a contemporary flair, and is renowned for delicious signature dishes like lobster tail with chilli and garlic, longhorn sirloin steak with teriyaki sauce, and many more – all made using locally sourced produce wherever possible. Also on offer is a carefully selected wine list, including a selection of prestigious Laurent-Perrier Champagnes. Readers can enjoy a three-course meal, including a glass of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Champagne, for £35 per person. This offer is valid for dinner only on Mondays to Thursdays between 2-30 November 2015, subject to availability.…

My perfect day in the King Valley The King Valley is a straight line. In theory you could cycle from beginning to end of the Prosecco Road, but I prefer to avoid the long, straight stretch in the middle – especially in hot weather. My perfect day would need to be a Friday, as that’s the only day that Dal Zotto opens for dinner, although it serves lunch Thursday to Sunday (www.kingvalleyproseccoroad.com.au). Morning Start with fresh juice and excellent coffee at Snow Road Produce* (www.snowroadproduce.com), then a pleasant half-hour cycle to Sam Miranda Winery* for a tasting. Cycle back to Brown Brothers. Lunch Return your bike and take lunch at The Epicurean Centre, the excellent Brown Brothers restaurant, with perhaps a post-prandial game of chess, followed by a wander five…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Albillo The name Albillo hides a web of confusion because it could signify at least three different varieties. Used without a qualifier, Albillo is likely to refer to either Albillo Mayor from Ribera del Duero or to Albillo Real (pictured, also known as Albillo de Madrid) from the Valladolid region. Although these have been shown to have unique DNA profiles, both produce wines that are typically aromatic, full-bodied and low in acidity, which is why they are often used in blends. Vega Sicilia’s famous, multi-vintage red Unico includes a very small amount of Albillo but it is not clear whether this is Real or Mayor. For Albillo Mayor, try Ermita del Conde; for Albillo Real, try Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi’s Las Uvas de la Ira.…

In brief Record smashed at VDP auction A world record-breaking price of €12,000 for a bottle of 2003 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger TbA was the highlight of the annual VDP wine auctions in Germany. The three-day event visited Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau and Nahe. In the Rheingau, a 1945 Schloss Johannisberg Weisslack Riesling Spätlese fetched €1,750, while in the Nahe, a magnum of Weingut Dönnhoff’s Riesling TbA 2011 from Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle sold for €5,900. New Vin de Constance release Klein Constantia’s launch of Vin de Constance 2011 marks a new era for the legendary South African wine – the first from owners Charles Harman and Zdenek Bakala. The wine is the latest incarnation of the dessert wine revived by previous owners the Jooste family. There was no 2010 released.…

E Guigal, La Mouline 1969 Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France A legend because… Marcel Guigal has long been renowned for his magnificent trio of single-vineyard Côte-Rôtie wines: La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. La Mouline was the first, its debut vintage being 1966, just five years after he took the helm at the family domaine. It was followed by La Landonne in 1978 and La Turque in 1985. La Mouline was acquired in 1965, and as it was already planted with some very old vines, he was able to make the wine from 1966. The wine also attracted attention because it was aged in mostly new French oak, for 42 months. Such a method was almost unheard of in a region where Côte-Rôtie at that time was still aged mostly or…