Innholdsfortegnelse for Sep-2018 i Decanter

Languedoc-Roussillon Languedoc-Roussillon won 1 Best in Show (see p35) 5 Platinums (see p66) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 95 Abbotts & Delaunay, A Tire d’Aile, Languedoc 2017 (12.5%) Rich pear and floral aromas. The palate is rounded and fruity with touches of vanilla spice and well-integrated acidity. The finish is long, fresh and harmonious. • 95 Château Rives-Blanques, Odyssée Chardonnay, Limoux 2016 (13%) £14.50-£15.90 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Tanners POA $ BBR Imports, Encore Wine Imports, Ideal Wine & Spirits Co, Swiss Cellars Aromas of nuts, white flowers and toast, with a citrus and marmalade edge. The palate is rounded and elegant with well-integrated oak and alcohol and a long, clean finish Lovely stuff! Gold red • 96 Château de Paraza, X, Minervois 2015 (14.5%) £38…

provence provence won 1 Best in Show (see p42) 0 Platinums For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold rosé • 96 Château Cavalier, Cuvée Cascadel, Côtes de Provence 2017 (12.5%) £13 Marks & Spencer Delicate rosehip, sweet spice and red fruit aromas lead to a palate of sweet wild strawberry, rocket leaf and a touch of spearmint. Complex yet soft – lovely! • 95 Bodvár, No5, Côtes de Provence 2017 (12.5%) $25 Fedway Associates, Select Wines, Southern Wines & Spirits of America A top-quality rosé with a beautiful summer pudding fruit core combined with delicate nettle and herb notes. Creamy textured and wonderfully moreish with a poised, precise finish. • 95 Château de Léoube, Côtes de Provence 2017 (13%) £16.99-£17.50 Davy’s, Daylesford POA $ AP Wine Imports, Chambers &…

South & North Africa South & North Africa won 1 Best in Show (see p45) 5 Platinums (see p78) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 South Africa Gold white • 96 Des Dieux, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Walker Bay 2014 (13.4%) £16.50 Stone Vine & Sun Exotic nose of honeysuckle, lemon and lime, wet chalk and creamy biscuit notes. There is subtlety, concentration and weight of fruit on the palate with fine balance, a lemon-lime cordial intensity and a long, mineral finish. Very classy and complex wine. • 95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Tierhoek Old-Blocks Chenin Blanc, Piekenierskloof, Citrusdal Mountain 2016 (14%) £14.25 Berry Bros & Rudd Lovely, expressive tropical fruit, pear, beeswax and peach nose. Delicious typicity on the palate with bright, fresh acidity, lovely texture and length, and…

United Kingdom United Kingdom won 0 Best in Show 3 Platinums (see p87) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 England Gold sparkling white • 95 Ashling Park, Brut, West Sussex NV (12%) £25-£30 Camber Wines, Portal Dingwall & Norris, Woodwinters Focus and precision on the nose, full of personality and vigour. The mousse is persistent and the texture light and poised. Decent autolytic complexity on the finish. • 95 Bluebell Vineyard, Hindleap Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs Brut, East Sussex 2008 (11.5%) £41.95 South Downs Cellars, Symposium, The Secret Cellar Flinty style with struck match aromas. The palate is taut and focused, driven by finesse rather than power. Class and elegance. • 95 Chapel Down, Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée Extra Brut, Kent 2013 (12%) £100 Chapel Down Winery…

hIGh-StREEt wINNERS UK shopper’s guide Your handy shopping list of selected DWWA 2018 winners from the UK’s leading high-street merchants BEST in SHOW • 97 Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, Cape town, south Africa 2014 £45/ 50cl PLAtinUM • 97 Camel Valley, Pinot noir Rosé Brut, Cornwall, engand, UK 2015 £28 • 97 Barone Ricasoli, Colledilà, Chianti Classico Gran selezione, tuscany, italy 2013 £39 GoLD • 95 Bodegas Juan Gil, the society’s southern spanish Red Monastrell, Jumilla, spain 2016 £5.75 • 96 Château Doisy Daëne, Barsac 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2015 £38 SILVER • 92 Kumeu River, the society’s exhibition Chardonnay, Kumeu/huapai, Auckland, new Zealand 2016 £14.95 • 91 Freycinet, the society’s exhibition Chardonnay, east Coast, tasmania, Australia 2016 £16 • 91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, nies’chen Grosse Lage Riesling Kabinett,…

The Platinum winners: wine profiles ALSACE Martin Schaetzel by Kirrenbourg, Riesling, Grand Cru Schlossberg 2016 (13.5%) Explosive ripe pink grapefruit notes with a smoky gunpowder backbone and a fine salty mineral character. An excellent wine with delicious complexity and richness, yet sublimely delicate on the palate leading to a long, crisp finish. £42 Raeburn Fine Wines Martin Schaetzel began bottling wines under his own name in the 1930s. Today his nephew Jean Schaetzel is at the helm and has been working hard since 1998 to convert the estate to first organic production and now biodynamics. ‘The earth is my first passion and I devote all my energy to her,’ says Schaetzel. ‘With biodynamics, I now have the means to give my Alsatian vineyard what I have always dearly wished to:…

Promotional feature Chandon The pioneering sparkling wines of the new world Chandon was born in France, in the 1950s, from the pioneering vision of Robert-Jean de Vogüé, then President of Moët & Chandon, who pushed the boundaries of traditional champagne elaboration by adapting ancestral savoir-faire and techniques to new world terroirs and cultures whilst never foregoing the same indisputable quality. Robert-Jean de Vogüé founded Bodegas Chandon, in Mendoza, Argentina, in 1959, followed by Chandon California and Chandon do Brasil in 1973. Chandon’s pioneering spirit did not end when he retired in 1972. With a strong sense of collaboration and mutual enrichment, supported by best-in-class winemakers and courageous entrepreneurs, Chandon Australia was inaugurated in 1986. More recently, Chandon India, in 2013, and Chandon China, in 2014, have opened up new frontiers…

Argentina & rest of South America (excluding chile) Argentina & rest of South America (excluding chile) won 1 Best in Show (see p26) 3 Platinums (see p52) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Argentina Gold white • 95 Morrisons, The Best Gran Montaña Reserve Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2016 (13%) £9 Morrisons Beautiful cocktail of steely minerality, citrus acidity, dark fruits and sophisticated savoury embellishments of flint and coffee. Well structured, harmonious and easy to enjoy with a long finish. Nothing excessive about it despite its unbridled richness. Well done! • 95 Terrazas de los Andes, Chardonnay, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2016 (14%) £14-£16.49 Clos19, Ocado, The Champagne Co POA $ Moet Hennessy USA Bursting with rich pineapple, ripe citrus and attractive acacia notes. Lovely and fresh with flinty oak…

John Stimpfig ‘DWWA winners span all styles and price points’ THIS MONTH, I want to hand out a couple of much merited tributes. The first goes my talented and hardworking colleagues on Decanter.com for winning one of the top honours at the AOP Digital Publishing Awards. At the end of June, Decanter was deservedly named Best Online Media Property or Brand. It’s a significant and prestigious win in a highly competitive category. It’s also recognition of the quality, transformation and growth that Decanter.com has achieved, both in content and global reach. Moreover, it reflects the undoubted success and impact of our new Decanter Premium online offering. This has now attracted more than 3,000 subscribers around the world. If you haven’t yet given Premium a go, why not take advantage of…

In brief ■ After 28 years as chef de cave at Dom Pérignon Champagne, Richard Geoffroy will pass the baton to his assistant winemaker, Vincent Chaperon, who has worked alongside Geoffroy for the past 13 harvests. Chaperon will take charge of shaping Dom Pérignon’s future vintages from 1 January 2019. ■ The UK’s first commercial Pinotage vines have been planted in a 0.75ha vineyard at Leonardslee Lakes & Gardens in Horsham, Sussex. Cellarmaster Johann Fourie has high hopes for the variety’s success in the UK climate, as it is an early ripener with thick skins that are resistant to rot. ■ Champagne house Krug is to collaborate with musician Jools Holland OBE for its Tracks on Tracks experience – a train journey that combines Champagne, fine-dining and live music, costing…

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Jane Anson ‘If you’re interested in rare grapes, you’ll be in heaven in the Valais’ It sounds lIke an impossible number: 22,000 smallholders working 80,000 plots of vines. especially when you realise that all of those plots add up to about 4,850ha – not even as big as the st-emilion appellation in Bordeaux that counts somewhere between 700 and 800 winemakers. It only started to make sense as I stood in the vineyards of switzerland’s Valais region – or rather when I was craning my neck to look upwards as the vineyards soared away in front of me. nestled in the alps, this is the largest wine region in switzerland, spread over 65 communes on slopes that reach gradients of 70%, sited between 800m and 1,100m in altitude and planted…

CALIFORNIA WHITES My top 30 white wines from California There's a new wave of quality coming out of the Golden State, enthuses Ronan Sayburn MS. Here he recommends 30 of the best of the current crop among California's whites CAlifoRNiA hAs DEfiNiTEly seen a rollercoaster ride of changing styles and tastes over the last few decades. in the 1980s when phylloxera returned, completely devastating vines planted on AXR1 rootstocks, a rethink and replanting programme turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as grape varieties were matched to more suitable sites. At a similar time, powerful critics were influencing winemaking styles, and California producers were moving into huge, oaky, high-alcohol wines – the bigger the better, when it came to chasing higher scores. Jump forward to 2004 and the wine-themed…

Brook’s pick: top Austrian Blaufränkisch buys Ernst Triebaumer, Mariental, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Burgenland 2015 95 N/A UK www.triebaumer.com Triebaumer’s Mariental has been one of Austria’s flagship reds since the 1980s. The vineyard lies north of Rust and has vines up to 60 years old. The magnificent 2015 has a sumptuous blackberry nose that’s more voluptuous than usual. Very rich and concentrated, it is balanced by fine acidity and has ample structure. The tannins are firm but elegant; the finish is lifted, peppery and very long. Drink 2019-2035 Alcohol 14% Krutzler, Reserve, Eisenberg, Südburgenland, Burgenland 2016 93 £19.80 (2014) Savage Selection This wine has long been a perfect expression of the Eisenberg terroir, with its complex schist soils. Aged in older barriques, it has a bright, lifted, sour-cherry nose that’s vibrant too. Rich…

Brook’s pick: best of Lugana’s dry whites Le Morette, Benedictus 2016 92 N/A UK www.luganalemorette.it The nose is still tight and inexpressive, and this is mirrored on the palate, which is firm, concentrated and stony. There’s high acidity here, so it is still a very youthful and assertive wine, with a long mineral finish. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 13.5% Montonale, Orestilla 2013 92 £14.56 (2015) Christopher Keiller, Vin Cognito Complex nose with lush stone fruits and ripe quince aromas. The attack is firm and the palate concentrated, still showing a slight austerity, but it’s mineral and dense, and fine acidity gives persistence. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13% Cà dei Frati, Brolettino 2016 91 £19.28-£27.99 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Tannico There’s a reticence on the nose with apricot aromas emerging. Rich and…

Cinsault strongholds FRANCE  Area About 20,000ha (hard to confirm, but around the 8th most-planted red), in Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence and Corsica Soils Well suited to schist soils Flavour profile Generally used in light, red fruit-led rosé styles Other Thought to have originated in the Hérault SOUTH AFRICA  Area 1,850ha (the 6th most-planted red) Soils Slate, shale and decomposed granite Flavour profile Red fruits, notably raspberry and strawberry, floral; light/medium-bodied, light tannins Other Cinsault was the most widely planted red grape variety in South Africa until the 1980s CHILE  Area 750ha (11th most-planted red), almost all in Itata Soils Best on rolling hills, decomposed granite with quartz. Dry-farmed bush vines Flavour profile Both red and dark fruits, liquorice; medium-bodied, luxuriously soft and textured tannins; moderate acidity Other Introduced to the country officially…

Rand’s pick: Alsace ‘Catholic’ wine styles hotograph: Shawshots/Alamy Jean-Baptiste Adam, Riesling Grand Cru Kaefferkopf 2014 95 £33.95 Ellis Wines Dry, intense and powerful, with orange peel and herbal notes – mint, even fennel. Shows beautiful poise, with finesse and elegance allied to concentration. Drink 2018-2035 Alcohol 13% Meyer-Fonné , Riesling Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg 2014 95 £25.90 Your Sommelier Enormous length and great tension and concentration combined, on a powerful wine that boasts drive and energy, while also managing to feel light and almost delicate. Wonderfully aromatic and nervy. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 13% Weinbach, Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2016 94 £28 Justerini & Brooks Rich and dry; focused, very direct. Peach and pear, quite floral, perfectly defined and very precise. It’s the granite soil that gives this wine its typical floral…

25 under £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Jansz, Premium Cuvée, Tasmania, Australia NV 90 £15.99 Waitrose One of Australia’s most reliable sparklers. The green apple palate (from cool-climate Apple Isle fruit) is enlivened by zippy citrus acidity, with complexity coming from two years on its lees and 5% of the blend being matured in old barriques before second fermentation. Alc 12% Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Riesling, Margaret River, Western Australia 2016 91 £21.99-£23.99 Bottle Apostle, Domaine Direct, Hedonism, In Vino Veritas, Yorkshire Vintners This tight, linear baby still needs time…

Panel tasting The summary Though regrettably hard to find in too many instances, the character and quality of these Loire reds from consecutive good vintages shone through, says Jim Budd A TAsTing THAT lived up to expectations, as quality-wise these appellations have had a quartet of good vintages, starting with 2014. This is an unprecedented run – certainly since 1939 and probably earlier, although three successive good Loire vintages is not unknown. Unfortunately there has been a succession of small crops from 2012, with 2016 and 2017 particularly affected by a series of late April frosts. Many growers are short of stock, which may well explain why we had a slightly disappointing number of wines entered. ‘Quality was broadly very good,’ said Chris Kissack. ‘i found myself scoring more wines…

Panel tasting Highly Recommended 90–94pts Chateau de Minière, Vignes Centenaires de Minière, Bourgueil 2015 93 JB 96 CK 95 BL 89 N/A UK www.chateaudeminiere.com A dark, brooding nose of currants and violets, perfumed and fresh. The palate shows texture, concentrated fruit, structure and acidity, followed by a lovely long grip on the finish with perfumed cherry fruit and crushed limestone notes. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13% Frédéric Mabileau, Eclipse No11, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2015 93 JB 95 CK 95 BL 90 N/A UK www.fredericmabileau.com A very enticing nose, influenced by the oak, but there are notes of dark chocolate and mint, along with dried red cherry fruit. It all hangs together rather well – a very ripe style with rich, warm, supple fruit. Great length too. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13% Amirault,…

Panel tasting The summary High quality and the diversity of grapes and styles made this a fascinating tasting, with plenty of choice for lovers of fresh, aromatic whites, says Rebecca Gibb MW IT Is RaRe to feel refreshed after a 94-wine marathon, but that’s how all three judges felt at the end of this panel tasting. ‘It’s staggering how New Zealand can produce such absolutely amazing aromatic wines with great flavours,’ said Roger Jones in the post-match appraisal. earlier in the day, the team had not been overly enthused when faced with nearly 40 glasses of Pinot Gris, but there were plenty of judiciously made, textural examples from the 2015, 2016 and even the challenging 2017 vintage, which led to three Outstanding and 10 Highly Recommended awards among the high…

new zealand alternative whites Highly Recommended 90–94pts Millton Vineyards, Te Arai Chenin Blanc, Gisborne 2016 94 MB 95 RG 92 RJ 94 £17.85-£19.99 Exel, The New Zealand Cellar, Vinceremos Beautiful crushed stone fruits envelope the palate. Rich and round style; this fills the mouth with almost peachy and floral Viognier-like scents and a creamy note. Pure and soft hints of florals seduce you. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 14% Archangel, Riesling, Central Otago 2011 93 MB 92 RG 91 RJ 96 £17.50 EWGA Wines, Wine Time Soft, supple, rather nutty expression. This is showing signs of its time in bottle, with a beautiful lime marmalade note and contrasting buttery finish. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12.5% Millton Vineyards, Riverpoint Viognier, Gisborne 2015 93 MB 92 RG 91 RJ 97 £16.45 Exel, The New Zealand…

Not new, but still smart 40 Maltby Street 40 Maltby Street, SE1 3PA  www.40maltbystreet.com One of the first natural wine bars and still going strong. In the Bermondsey foodie hub around Druid Street, 40 Maltby Street is run by wine importers Gergovie Wines. Good grub too, but check opening hours. No reservations. Sager & Wilde 193 Hackney Road, E2 8JL  www.sagerandwilde.com The pioneers who brought – and still bring – fine wine to Hackney, including a strong Californian list. Food has expanded since the early days of cheese toasties, but is still limited to classic cheese and charcuterie wine bar fare. Scheduled to open a new pizza joint in Clerkenwell this summer called Fare. Blandford Comptoir 1 Blandford Street W1U 3DA  www.blandford-comptoir.co.uk, and Cabotte 48 Gresham Street, EC4  www.cabotte.co.uk One…

Germany Germany won 1 Best in Show (see p34) 1 Platinum (see p65) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 96 Castell, Casteller Hohnart Trocken Silvaner, Franken 2016 (13%) Aromatic intensity on the nose with ripe pear and apple, candied lemon peel and notes of white blossoms. A touch of creaminess on the palate brings additional complexity. Lovely! • 96 Fitz-Ritter, Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling GG, Pfalz 2016 (13%) Very expressive nose of citrus, yellow stone fruit, lime zest, ripe peaches and apricots. Excellent structure and depth on the palate followed by a convincing length. • 95 Fritz Waßmer, Schlossberg Staufen Chardonnay, Baden 2015 (14.8%) Elegant and refined nose of pears, apricots and pineapple, plus toasty aromas of brioche and Scottish shortbread. A complex palate showing weight and density…

Northern & Eastern Europe Northern & Eastern Europe won 0 Best in Show 5 Platinums (see p69) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Czech Republic Gold white • 95 Vinařství Volařík, Purmice Ryzlink Vlašský, Mikulovská, Moravia 2016 (13%) Toasted almonds, a suprising melon character and ripe, yellow peaches are beautifully woven together. Complex, with a healthy dose of acidity and ripeness. Harmonious and well made. Gold red • 96 Regina Coeli, Merlot, Znojemská, Moravia 2015 (14.5%) A well-defined and complex nose of blackberries, sous bois, rich chocolate and green, herbal aromas. The juicy palate is mellow, supple and silky, with a slightly spiced, long finish. Gold sweet white • 96 Sonberk Pálava, Slámové Víno, Mikulovská, Moravia 2016 (10.7%) £26/25cl Ellis Wines A delicious aromatic profile of pear, peach, honey…

Southwest & rest of France South West & rest of France won 0 Best in Show 0 Platinums For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Corsica Gold red • 95 Clos Venturi, Chiesa Nera, Vin de France 2015 (14%) Intensely elegant and earthy with cracked black pepper, cherry and wild strawberry characters. Very juicy fruit palate with crunchy tannins and a concentrated, spicy finish. Fabulous wine! Southwest France Gold red • 96 Domaine Laurens, Le Dernier Lion, Marcillac 2016 (13%) £30 Pierre Hourlier Wines A serious wine to ponder over. Vibrant red fruits, green pepper and floral notes lead to a complex, mineral palate with silky tannins and great structure. True class! • 96 Latis, Grande Reserve Malbec, Cahors 2016 (13.5%) £15 Buckingham Schenk Attractive, rich damson fruit, finessed by…

Switzerland Switzerland won 0 Best in Show 3 Platinums (see p84) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 95 Erich Meier, Chardonnay, Zurich, Eastern Cantons 2016 (13.5%) Complex, intense and elegant. Has sublime balance between oak and fruit expression. Dense, savoury and complete with incredible length. A great achievement! • 95 Hammel - Terres de Vins, Château de Trévelin Grand Cru Altesse, La Côte, Vaud 2015 (13%) Intense nose of expressive fruit and mineral hints. The palate is packed with complex citrus peel, lemon flesh, and well-judged oaky hints of butter and vanilla. • 95 Lux Vina, Altimus Petite Arvine, Valais 2016 (13.5%) A distinguished and stylish Petite Arvine that displays great saline minerality. Already expressing some secondary flavours, this wine has wonderful potential to evolve further.…

Decanter World Wine Awards Judges’ Party As judging for DWWA 2018 drew to a close, the international panel of judges gathered together to compare notes and to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the competition with the Decanter team Photographs: Catharine Lowe (www.cathlowe.com)…

How to read the results Profiles and tasting notes for all 50 Best in Show winners (the best of the Platinum winners) are listed from p25, with profiles and tasting notes for the Platinum winners (the best of the Golds) listed from p52. For an explanation of how the judging process works, please see p8. From p90, we list Gold medal winners by region. Wines are grouped into colour and/or type, in the order one might drink them over a meal: Sparkling, White, Rosé, Red, Sweet and Fortified. Wines are identified by these colours: green (white wines), pink (rosés), red (reds), orange (sweet and fortified wines). Within the Sparkling sections of each region, wines are further divided into colour: Sparkling white, Sparkling rosé, Sparkling red. Within all of these categories,…

DWWA: the judging process The Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) are rooted in regionality. Wines are judged first and foremost within their region, by a panel of experts in that region. The judges look for typicity above all, rewarding wines that are true to their terroir. Turn to p10 to find out more about the credentials of our DWWA co-Chairs and Regional Chairs, as well as a list of judges for each region. Flights of wines are organised to ensure judges do not jump between contrasting styles in short time-frames, or risk palate fatigue by tasting very tannic wines over a long period. Judges taste between 75 to 80 wines per day, in optimum conditions – seated, in a plain, white room, under natural light. They taste from Riedel glasses,…

DWWA: the winning wines Best in Show 95-100 All Platinum winners are pitted against each other to win Best in Show – the DWWA’s top accolade. Value Best in Show awards are given to wines under £15 Platinum 95-100 All Golds are re-tasted; a Platinum award is given to those wines that stand above the rest. Value Platinums are awarded to wines under £15 Medals Each wine is given an individual score Gold 95-100 An excellent wine of great complexity and character Silver 90-94 A very accomplished wine, with impressive complexity Bronze 86-89 A well-made, straightforward and enjoyable wine Commended 83-85 An acceptable and simple wine…

Asia Asia won 0 Best in Show 0 Platinums For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 China Gold red • 96 Carrel Manor, Crystal Pearl Reserve, Xinjiang 2014 (14%) Aromas of spice and notes of coffee with black fruit and tar. The palate shows morello cherry and black plum fruit with high-toned bourbon notes and chunky tannins. • 96 XinJiang Ruitaiqinglin, Guofei Oak Barrels, Heshuo/ Hoxud, Xinjiang 2016 (15%) Complex aromas of oak, coconut and dried fruits unveil a smoky palate showing heavy toast, blackcurrant and a touch of menthol on the finish. • 95 Greatwall, Five Stars Marselan-Syrah, Penglai, Shandong NV (14.5%) Ripe on the nose with hints of violet layered with oak and bacon. The fleshy palate displays chocolate, sweet spice and a meaty finish. • 95 Jade…

Balkans Balkans won 0 Best in Show 4 Platinums (see p58) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Bosnia-Herzegovina Gold red • 95 Wine Cellars of Monastery Tvrdos, Grand Reserve Vranac, Herzegovina 2009 (14.5%) Mint and eucalyptus aromas. The palate is developed and displays a nice structure with flavours of ripe red berries, fresh plums, herbs, plus integrated ripe tannins and citrussy acidity. Bulgaria Gold red • 95 Midalidare, Grand Vintage Syrah, Thracian Lowland, Southern Region 2016 (14%) £21 The Old Cellar Aromas of toast, violets, black cherries and yoghurt. The palate is even better with lots of complex flavours of sweet spices, black cherry, blackberry, toast and pepper. Suave, with a lovely texture and a long finish. • 95 Minkov Brothers, Cuvee, Thracian Valley, Thracian Lowland, Southern Region 2016…

bURGUNdy – cAUcASUS & EURASIA Canada Canada won 1 Best in Show (see p33) 4 Platinums (see p61) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold sparkling white • 95 13th Street Winery, Premier Cuvée, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario 2012 (12.5%) A rich and leesy nose with hints of caramelised apple. The palate is elegantly crisp showing grapefruit, citrus and saline elements. • 95 Thirty Bench, Sparkling Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario NV (12%) Lovely mousse, then a beautiful petrol lemon nose over touches of grapefruit. The long palate is delightfully mineral showing apricot and green apple fruit. Gold white • 96 Quails’ Gate, Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia 2016 (13.5%) £36.40 Berkmann Wine Cellars This opens with ginger and pineapple on the nose, then the ripe palate is…

Chile Chile won 0 Best in Show 5 Platinums (see p64) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 96 Bouchon, Skin by Las Mercedes Semillon, Maule 2016 (13.5%) £20 Las Bodegas UK Restrained custard and quartz nose but the palate is much more complex: some serious extraction here, giving it a real depth. This is an intriguing, thinking person’s white wine — perhaps a red wine in a white wine’s clothing — that is not overdone at all. Vibrant stuff! • 96 Lo Abarca, Marks & Spencer Riesling, San Antonio 2017 (12.5%) £10 Marks & Spencer Dried apple rind and lemon aromas. Good tangy acidity in the mouth with flavours of green and red apples. Succulent, off-dry, palate with lovely acid integration and vibrancy. A really nice…

Letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, TI Media Limited, 161 Marsh Wall, London E14 9AP, UK Identity crisis  ANDREw JEffoRDs’s ColumN on the importance of geographical name protection (July 2018 issue) is absolutely correct in focusing on the central issue of ‘truth telling’. If I buy a bottle of Chablis, I need to be 100% certain it’s made from Chardonnay and is from Chablis itself. like Jefford’s ‘Châteauneuf-duPape, Grand Vin de Bourgogne’, I experienced spanish Chablis in the late 1960s! But truth telling for the consumer is only one side of the coin – there is the other side of branding for the producer, an issue that I believe our English wine producers are struggling with. English sparkling somehow doesn’t…

Andrew Jefford ‘One nation I would love to see show greater diversity is Chile’ One Of the pleasures of co-chairing the Decanter World Wine Awards is that my colleagues and I take a peep at wines from everywhere – and with 17,000 wines in contention, that’s quite a privilege. the two weeks of judging, moreover, lead us on a kind of trek from base camp through the uplands of Silver, Gold and Platinum towards the summit of the 50 ‘Best in Show’. there’s grand scenery to admire along the way. the journey this year set me thinking about the question of national character in wine. Should it exist? Of course: every wine-producing nation sits in a certain position on the face of the earth, and is subject to a particular…

What I’ve been drinking this month Getting into the stride of its drinking window at nine years old, Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux 3CC 2009 is a wonderful display of the pleasures we have in store from this particular Bordeaux vintage. With a few years to wait while the structured 2010 comes around, this is full of silky-smooth tannins and is extremely well-balanced, with great structure to the rich black fruits and a mouthwatering finish that reminds you that Margaux is the home of finessed aromatics and minerality.…

Vintage report Barolo 2014 & Barbaresco 2015 Stephen Brook reports from Piedmont’s Nebbiolo Prima tastings, picking the best of the new releases as well as riservas from Barolo 2012 and Barbaresco 2014, with four top Roero reds too Photograph: S_Photo/Shutterstock ThE gREAT NEbbiolo wiNEs of Piedmont have an avid following, so the release of new vintages always generates some excitement – and occasionally disappointment. The starting gun is triggered each May at an event now known as Nebbiolo Prima – not an official launch, but the first opportunity to taste the new releases. its sole drawback is the sheer number of wines to be tasted (all blind), 70-90 each day, a total of more than 300 bottles. With few exceptions, the wines will have been bottled only a couple of…

CINSAULT Cinsault: into the spotlight Regarded for decades as simply a useful blending grape, is hardy Cinsault finding favour again? Alistair Cooper MW feels its wines are deserving of a reappraisal IT Is ofTEN said that wine trends are cyclical, mirroring the fickle beast that is the fashion industry. Wine styles and grapes come and go, just as flares and beards just keep on coming back. And if ever there were a grape that has experienced a wild swing in its fortunes over the past century, it’s Cinsault. once widely planted, then much maligned and brutally grubbed up, this inherently hardy and tenacious grape has experienced a welcome mini-renaissance in recent years. Historically Cinsault has played a pivotal, yet often understated role in the development of several leading wine industries.…

Producer profile Champagne Charles Heidsieck Founded by the original Champagne Charlie, Charles Heidsieck has had mixed fortunes through the decades. However, says Christelle Guibert, its fascinating legacy is now matched by the strength of its ambition and the quality of its wines Photographs: Historic Collection, The Protected Art Archive, United Archives GmbH/Alamy MADAMES, MONKS, BON viveurs; Champagne has had its share of characters from the start. But with the greatest respect to Dom Pérignon, Madame Clicquot and others, arguably the most significant character of all in the drink’s rise to fame as the premium sparkling wine of the world, is Charles Camille Heidsieck, the original ‘Champagne Charlie’. It was thanks to his headline-grabbing exploits in 1852 that Champagne first crossed the Atlantic and lodged itself in the consciousness of the…

Charles Heidsieck: a selection of Champagnes Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires 2004 96 £123.80-£174 Exel, Harrods, Hedonism, Jeroboams, Lea & Sandeman, Liberty Wines, Millésima, The Finest Bubble The 2004 follows the legacy of the remarkable 1995. Grapes from four grands crus (Avize, Cramant, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger) and the premier cru Vertus. Purity, richness and tension too, with brioche and leesy characters and a hint of lemon. Dense and textured, yet elegant with a real taste of chalk and a very long finish. Spending 11 years on lees, it was disgorged in November 2016. Drinking well now, but one to leave in the cellar for some time. Drink 2020-2028 Alcohol 12.5% Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires 1995 95 £114.30-£194.95 Exel, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism, Laithwaite’s, Lea & Sandeman, Liberty Wines, Millésima, The…

Rand’s pick: Alsace ‘Protestant’ wine styles Bott-Geyl, Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2014 96 £38-£44 OW Loeb, The Sampler, Vindependents, WoodWinters Precise and dark-fruited, accurate and detailed, showing great depth and an enormous and powerful finish. This will unwind only slowly. Drink 2018-2030 Alcohol 13% Hugel, Grossi Laüe Gewurztraminer 2010 96 £47.40 Hedonism So silky, rich and enveloping, yet precise. Spice, earth, flowers; terroir and depth, precision, glorious aromas; was the perfect match for a prawn and mango curry. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14% Ostertag, Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg 96 £49.60 Hedonism Grown in volcanic soil, with all the sparkiness that seems to go with it. Supple at the same time, very detailed and poised, taut and deep, aromatic with an almost medicinal touch to balance the ripe citrus notes. Drink 2018-2030…

The judges Jim Budd Contributing to Decanter since 1989. Budd writes the award-winning blog Jim’s Loire, and is one of the five members of the Les 5 du Vin blog in France. He contributes to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and is a keen photographer, especially in the Loire. My top three • Domaine du Mortier, Dionysos, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2016 From the clay-limestone slopes, a dense, deeply coloured wine, seductively textured with mouthfilling red and black fruits. Lovely balance, oak adding complexity. Organic, and one for the cellar. 97 Drink 2018-2030 • Domaine Grosbois, Gabare, Chinon 2017 since returning in 2008 after working around the world, nicolas grosbois has taken it to another level. smoky nose, concentration and structure. Powerful, best kept a year or two. Certified organic. 97…

PANEL TASTING New Zealand alternative whites Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme and Chardonnay is well established, but an exciting range of other white grape varieties is taking root in NZ, reports Rebecca Gibb MW Map: Maggie Nelson IS THERE NO sating the appetite for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc? The flamboyant and vibrant style that put the country on the world wine map in the mid-1980s continues to have a thirsty fan base. The country has become synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc, but it hasn’t always been this way. It was only in 2002 that it became the most-planted variety, taking the crown from Chardonnay, a title it had only inherited from the prolific hybrid Müller-Thurgau a few years earlier. Despite Sauvignon Blanc’s status as the most important variety in New Zealand today,…

The judges Melanie Brown Brown joined the team at The Providores in 2006, where she helped to develop the largest list of premium New Zealand wine in the UK. She launched her own specialist retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, in 2014, followed by a wine bar and shop in London, where she curates a unique selection of New Zealand wine events. My top three • Millton Vineyards, Te Arai Chenin Blanc, Gisborne 2016 I’ve always been seduced by this wine, which is opulent but with poise and tension. James Millton is New Zealand’s biodynamics pioneer. One of the most texturally pleasing New Zealand wines I’ve tasted. 95/100 Drink 2018-2021 • Mount Edward Riesling, Central Otago 2017 Duncan Forsyth, the winemaker and Riesling obsessive, farms organically and produces beautiful single-vineyard wines.…

expert’s choice White Rioja From tired and flabby to complex and textured, white Rioja has transformed its image, says Sarah jane evans MW, here recommending her favourite bottles WhITe RIOjA’S TRANSFORMATION has been nothing short of remarkable. A decade or so ago it was the frankly rather poor relation among Spain’s whites, overshadowed by Albariño, and later Verdejo. Today there has been a striking turnaround. The variety that came to dominate production was Viura (elsewhere known as Macabeo). It still accounts for two-thirds of the white plantings in the DOCa. however, Viura today needs planting in cooler sites, harvesting earlier, perhaps also blending with other varieties – all the usual practices to enhance freshness and fight the drabness. The Consejo Regulador has more recently permitted ‘foreigners’ such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon…

Greece & Cyprus Greece & Cyprus won 1 Best in Show (see p34) 3 Platinums (see p65) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Greece Gold white • 96 Kechris Winery, Tear Of The Pine, Retsina 2017 (13.7%) Classy and vibrant with pine forest aromas with mineral flashes. A superb example of new-age Retsina combining herbal scents of sage and coriander along a savoury Assyrtiko spine. A modern rendition of this traditional wine. Serious, elegant and age worthy. • 95 Artemis Karamolegos, Pyritis Mega Cuvée, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2016 (14%) £35-£45 Eclectic Wines, Noel Young There’s a beguiling whiff of the Aegean and a saline mineral tang in this beautiful one-of-a-kind wine. The palate is still youthful yet unfolds like a peacock’s tail with impressive purity and definition. What else…

portugal portugal won 1 Best in Show (see p41) 3 Platinums (see p75) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 96 Rui Roboredo Madeira, Beyra, Beira Interior 2017 (13.4%) £12 Raymond Reynolds A zippy, tangy feast of lime, citrus and stone fruits with delicious spicy white pepper and floral notes. Soft and elegant with a great length. Excellent value! • 95 Quinta de Curvos, Avesso, Vinho Verde 2017 (13%) A great example of how Vinho Verde should be. Beautifully bright with ripe nectarines and peaches, juicy and fresh with great finesse. A perfect summer wine! Gold red • 96 Carmim, Contemporal, Alentejano 2017 (13.7%) An absolute must try! Succulent baked plum and jammy raspberry fruit with a delightful fresh acidity running throughout. Very soft tannins with a…

Southern Italy Southern Italy won 1 Best in Show (see p46) 3 Platinums (see p79) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Sardinia Gold white • 96 Silvio Carta, Riserva, Vernaccia di Oristano 2004 (19%) £49.95 Eurowines Warm yet fresh nose, with a wonderful sea-breeze quality. The palate has complex layers of dried fruit and citrus peel with amazingly fresh acidity on the long finish. Gold red • 96 Surrau, Sincaru Riserva, Cannonau di Sardegna 2015 (14.5%) Attractive cherry fruit nose with floral hints. The long palate is fleshy and powerful with lovely soft tannins, well-judged oak and great concentration of bright fruit. Sicily Gold white • 96 Vinisola, A’mmare, Pantelleria Bianco 2011 (15.5%) An intriguing, complex nose of dried apricots, then masses of complexity to the palate: floral pot…

DWWA BY NUMBERS DWWA 2018: The ultimate winners The 50 Best in Show wines – the top 0.3% – triumphed over more than 16,850 others this year. They were judged to be the most exceptional examples of their type, not only in their own country or region, but a step above the already outstanding 149 Platinum winners, who in turn shone above the 439 Golds 50 Best in Show (0.3%) 149 Platinum (0.88%) 439 Gold medals (2.6%) 3,454 Silver medals (20.43%) 7,079 Bronze medals (41.88%) 16,903 wines tasted from around the world ALSACE Dopff au Moulin, Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Brand 2015 (13.8%) Pale green-gold, with luscious yet fresh aromas of fine perfumer’s spice with beaten cream and oil of lemon: head-turning and arresting. Full, lush and compelling on the palate,…

Step-by-step guide to the competition 1 Once the competition opens for entries, producers submit their wines and provide us with wine details, price and retail availability. Four bottles of each wine arrive at the Decanter warehouse and are logged, categorised and coded according to their country and region. 2 Wines are grouped by country, region, colour, grape, style, vintage and price brackets. The price brackets are: Band A: Up to £7.99 Band B: £8-£14.99 Band C: £15-£29.99 Band D: £30-£59.99 Band E: £60+ 3 All wines are tasted blind but judges are aware of the factors in step 2. They taste wines individually within the context of their style and price bracket. They then compare notes and reach a consensus on the wine’s medal and the score out of 100…

Alsace Alsace won 1 Best in Show (see p26) 1 Platinum (see p52) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 95 Cave de Ribeauvillé, Riesling, Grand Cru Osterberg 2016 (11.5%) A sophisticated and elegant bone-dry, steely Riesling with delicate notes of white flowers, juicy citrus fruit, fresh mineral salinity and a smoky character. Really excellent. • 95 Martin Schaetzel by Kirrenbourg, Riesling, Grand Cru Rangen 2016 (14%) £49 Raeburn Fine Wines This is staggeringly good! Luscious, intense honeyed apricots combined with unctuous quince and exotic fruits. Full-bodied with brilliant fresh minerality and a very long finish. Gold sweet white • 95 Domaine Aimé Stentz, Sélection de Grains Nobles Pinot Gris 2013 (12%) Exceptional! Concentrated mango, passion fruit and toffee flavours with rich apricots, marmalade, butter and a…

Australia Australia won 6 Best in Show (see p27) 20 Platinums (see p53) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold sparkling white • 96 Chandon, Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay-Pinot Noir 2008 (12.5%) Very fine evolving nose. Complex and nuanced palate of buttered toast, apple crumble, honey, truffle and savoury notes. Creamy and rich with a long, complex finish. Gold white • 96 McGuigan, The Shortlist Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2010 (11.5%) Lovely toasty, grilled nut character on the nose along with lemon zest and lime cordial notes. Generous palate showing good maturity: flavours of bacon fat, asparagus and apricots. Impressive length. • 96 Soumah, Hexham Vineyard Equilibrio Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2017 (13.1%) £40 VinumTerra Intense and mineral-laden nose with a flash of vanilla, sesame, ripe pear and toast.…

Bordeaux Bordeaux won 1 Best in Show (see p31) 4 Platinums (see p59) For Silvers, Bronzes and Commendeds, visit http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA/2018 Gold white • 95 Château Loudenne, Bordeaux 2015 (13.5%) £25 Whole Foods Market Classic nose of oak, blackcurrant leaf, tea, tropical fruit, nectarines and vanilla. The palate is zingy with fresh acidity, integrated oak and notes of almond, lemon, grapefruit and pineapple. Extremely polished. Gold red • 95 Barton & Guestier, Château Magnol Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc 2016 (13.3%) Classic dark plum, pencil lead and black fruit. Deep, resonant and structured palate with ample fine-grained tannins, lots of power and a lingering complex finish. • 95 Château la Croizille, St-Emilion GC 2015 (14.5%) £55 Handford Complex aromas of mocha and toffee with clove, dark chocolate and black cherry underlying the oak.…

Around the wine world Chinese-owned Bordeaux estates under investigation France’s Central Office for the Repression of Major Financial Crime (OCRGDF) has frozen ownership of 10 vineyards and châteaux in Bordeaux. It is understood that all estates involved belong to China’s Haichang Group, although Bordeaux’s organised crime department DIPJ would not confirm the names of the estates seized. Day-to-day business at the properties has continued as normal and their wines were not part of the investigation, a DIPJ spokesperson said. A 2014 report by China’s National Audit Office accused Haichang Holdings Ltd of misspending $43m in public funds, though no formal charges were known to have been brought against the firm. ‘We are always very happy when Chinese buyers come to Bordeaux and when they buy châteaux,’ said CIVB’s Christophe Chateau.…

Letter of the month Don’t blame Brexit Two ARTIClEs IN your August issue attributed falling Champagne sales in the uK (down by 3.4m bottles between 2016 and 2017) to Brexit uncertainty, and the attendant lack of confidence. Yet over the same period, sales in france fell by almost twice as much as they did in the uK (by volume). In october, Decanter.com reported that overall sparkling wine sales in the uK grew by 76% between 2012 and 2017. The Drinks Business notes a 209% increase in sales by value on an 89% increase by volume. This does not look like a uK consumer market being cautious or spending less. In fact, premium English sparkling sales continue to grow year on year (I now buy English fizz instead of Champagne; it…

What I’ve been drinking this month I recently tried, thanks to a friend whose pursuit of wines made from rare grape varieties approaches the obsessive, a red Vin de France made in Cahors by Fabien Jouves from the Jurançon Noir (or Folle Noire) grape. It was perfumed, lifted, fresh and crunchy, packed with black cherry: totally delicious. Alas, Jouves has elected to use the most extreme English-language four-letter word in the wine’s name, in a formulation so gross I can’t bring myself to type it out here. Decanting essential – to avoid sight of the label.…

Hugh Johnson ‘Wines don’t have to be rare to be delicious. Or indeed precious’ It was far simpler when we all knew less. running through the ‘classic’ wine regions; explaining the different grapes used in Bordeaux and Burgundy, and their different aims; pointing out that there were alternatives – Loire, rhône, Italy… but they weren’t the be-all and end-all. we were all beginners. wine writers then had an easy job. the question now is who are we writing for. One reader is still vague about (even) Bordeaux and Burgundy, and is surprised to hear how they make Champagne; another tuts impatiently (get on with it, can’t you?) when you explain that Marsanne and roussanne are white rhône grapes, or that tasmania is cooler than the rest of australia. Mention Juhfark…

BLAUFRANKISCH Austria’s finest red It may be a bit tricky to pronounce, but Blaufränkisch has made a name for itself, as Austrian producers explore its potential for quality wines. Stephen Brook introduces a native grape that deserves to have global recognition Photograph: Westend61/Getty BlAufRANkisCh – iT DoEsN’T exactly trip off the tongue, does it? No wonder that in the 1990s many Austrian wine estates decided to focus instead on international varieties such as Merlot. Today, however, international varieties are in retreat, as Austrians begin to concur that Blaufränkisch is their country’s finest red. it’s not exclusive to Austria. in hungary – which was of course Austrian until 1920 – it’s known as kékfrankos, and in southern Germany as lemberger. But the finest expressions of the variety do emerge from Austria,…

VINTAGE REPORT: PIEDMONT Brook’s top 50 Piedmont wines Wines (all red) are listed by denominazione, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Prices, stockists and alcohols are given where possible. Find full tasting notes at Decanter.com/premium Barolo 2014 Gaja, Sperss, Serralunga d’Alba 94 £186.59-£210 Armit, Fine & Rare Like Gaja’s Barbarescos, aged in a combination of barriques and large barrels. Has a subdued cherry nose with a touch of oak. Rich, powerful and tannic on the palate, but not too assertive. Well balanced and fleshy, lots of velvety texture and grain, with an underlying freshness and finesse. Very long. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14% Paolo Scavino, Bric dël Fiasc, Castiglione Falletto 94 £67.59 Fine & Rare The finest of Scavino’s 2014 single-vineyard wines. The raspberry-scented nose is ripe, juicy and…

Lugana at a glance DOC Since 1967 Location Hinterland of the southern shore of Lake Garda; vineyards mostly in Lombardy, but around 300ha in Veneto Area in production (2016) 1,873ha – more planted but not yet in production; 130 producers produce about 16m bottles Grapes Until the 1960s much of the region was planted not with Trebbiano di Lugana but with Tocai (later known as Friulano or Tuki). Friulano vines are still present, but the wine is produced under the San Martino della Battaglia DOC, created in 1970 and covering essentially the same territory as Lugana DOC. Grapes Principal variety Turbiana (named Trebbiano di Lugana up to 2005); a wine may contain up to 10% of other non-aromatic varieties such as Chardonnay, Incrocio Manzoni or Pinot Bianco Styles Lugana Brut,…

Cooper’s pick: the world’s best Cinsault buys The Sadie Family Wines, Pofadder, Swartland, South Africa 2016 94 £33.50-£35.80 Harrogate Wines, Hedonism Perfumed bouquet with strawberry and cherry, spice and white pepper. Medium-bodied with linear, tense and thrilling acidity, textured tannins and a lovely earthy minerality behind. Finishes long, pure and crackling with life. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 14% De Martino, Viejas Tinajas, Itata Valley, Chile 2016 93 £15.85-£17.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene This Cinsault is both fermented and aged in amphora – and it continues to impress. Delightful nose of red fruit and sweet currants with real purity. Crunchy red fruits on the palate are carried along by a refreshing cranberry freshness. Fine-grained tannins caress the top of the palate and leave you wanting more. Drink…

Charles Heidsieck – a timeline 1785 German wine merchant Florens-Louis Heidsieck founds Heidsieck & Co. Later his great-nephew, Charles-Henri Heidsieck, joins the company 1822 Charles Camille Heidsieck is born 1828 Death of Florens-Louis. House taken over by nephew Christian Heidsieck and cousin Henri-Guillaume Piper 1851 Domaine Charles Heidsieck founded 1852 Charles makes his first US trip, visiting New York State and New England 1862 Charles arrested and imprisoned in Louisiana 1867 Purchase of 27 crayères 1893 Death of Charles Heidsieck 1976 Daniel Thibault joins Charles Heidsieck. He launches the first vintage of the iconic Blanc des Millénaires, among other innovations 1985 House acquired by the Rémy Cointreau Group 1997 Launch of ‘Mis en Cave’ bottling 2002 Death of Daniel Thibault 2011 House bought by EPI Group (Descours family) 2017 Launch…

ALSACE Alsace: a matter of faith? Could it really be true that religious dividing lines might define the styles of wine made within this historically disputed region of France? It’s something of a revelation for Margaret Rand Photographs: Andrew Hasson/Alamy, Mick Rock/Cephas ‘It’s not all religion, but subculture and location as well. And there are always contrary examples’ Philippe Blanck IT IS of course a joke – albeit a joke with some substance to it. The idea that there are villages in Alsace that are predominantly Catholic and villages that are mostly Protestant is true; and it is true that some Alsace wines are open, exuberant and off-dry, while others are tight, restrained and bone-dry. Can you go a step further and say that there are Catholic wines and…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Kopke Colheita Port Established in 1638 by Cristiano Köpke and his son Nicolau, the house of Kopke is the oldest of all exporters of Port. While the British houses dominate our Port market, Kopke came to my attention in the past few years due to its extraordinary range of colheitas: single-vintage, wood-aged Ports. I had of course known about this style, and was first properly introduced to it through those of Quinta do Noval, another historic house. I have notes in my 2016 Dorset tasting book for the 2003 (a wonderful wine, very vigorous…

Chinon, Bourgueil, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil: know your vintages 2017 April frosts, but growers better set to combat it. Still some losses, but overall an unprecedented fourth good vintage in a row for quality. Top wines yet to be bottled. 2016 Many parts hit by frosts, up to 100% loss. Also mildew. Small crop but good quality wines. 2018-2035+ 2015 Warm year producing powerful, ripe wines, if a smallish crop. 2018-2040+ 2014 Cool, wet summer, then glorious in September, October. Attractive well-balanced wines. 2018-2035+ 2013 Cold spring, very late flowering, least good for many years. Lack of ripeness – avoid. 2012 Frost-hit crop. Some decent wines but outdone by 2014-2017.…

chinon, bourgueil, st-nicolas de bourgueil Outstanding 95–97pts Domaine Grosbois, Gabare, Chinon 2017 Decanter average score: 97/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Jim Budd 97 Chris Kissack 98 Ben Llewelyn 96 £24.95 Vin Cognito Domaine Grosbois, family owned since 1820, can trace its connection to the land as far back as the French Revolution. It is located in the appellation of Chinon in Touraine, nestled in the Loire valley on a 9ha estate. Today the estate is fronted by Nicolas Grosbois, who in 2008 crafted a range of seven differing types of Cabernet Franc, based on the unique soil characteristics of 13 plots. These comprise clay soils on a limestone bedrock, with the vines on average 40 years old. Jim Budd A sooty, smoky nose, with good concentration and structure on the palate…

New Zealand alternative whites: know your vintages 2017 Difficult season with poor summer. Wet and warm autumn led to botrytis pressure. Early picked crops were most successful. A very small crop in Central Otago. 2016 Record crop. Warm, often humid. Harvest period was dry and sunny. Excellent whites and highly attractive reds. 2015 Dry and warm. Small, low-yielding crop after cool flowering. Ripe, perfumed and fully flavoured wines. 2014 Record early vintage. Warm summer with little disease pressure. Excellent across the board. 2013 Touted as the vintage of a lifetime with a warm, incredibly dry summer and autumn. Concentrated, ripe wines across the North and South Islands. 2012 Cool summer led to a late harvest with slow ripening of whites. Intense, vivacious whites, but too cool for later-ripening reds.…

new zealand alternative whites Outstanding 95–97pts Ata Rangi, Lismore Pinot Gris, Martinborough 2017 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 95 Rebecca Gibb MW 93 Roger Jones 96 £23-£27.99 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Laithwaite’s, Liberty Wines, The New Zealand Cellar Ata Rangi was founded in 1980 by Clive Paton, on a stony sheep paddock in Martinborough. Appropriately, the name Ata Rangi means ‘dawn sky’ or ‘new beginning’, which suits Paton’s pioneering decision to plant vines rather than be a farmer – a move that has certainly paid dividends. Today, Ata Rangi is world-famous for its Pinot Noir, but this Lismore Pinot Gris, made by winemaker Helen Masters, shows that the estate is no one-trick pony. It comes from the Lismore vineyard, which is situated just north of Martinborough…

Final Jayer cellar sale brings in the high-bidders The ‘last’ ex-cellar auction of wines from the personal collection of the late Henri Jayer fetched a total of CHF34.5m (US$34.7m), an amount well over double the high pre-sale estimate. About 100 bidders took part in the sale, held in Geneva by Baghera Wines, which featured more than 1,000 bottles, including over 200 magnums. The total of 215 lots covered vintages from 1970 to 2001, including a 15-magnum tranche of Cros Parantoux spanning the vintages 1978 to 2001, which fetched CHF1.16m. French winemaker Jayer, who passed away in 2006 at the age of 84, was long considered a master of Burgundy Pinot Noir. Baghera billed the sale of his collection as the last of its kind.…