Innholdsfortegnelse for Autumn 2025 i Dazed & Confused

Censorship feels like a fog right now, seeping into our screens and on to our streets. Here in Britain, our rights to free speech, free protest and even a free internet are being eroded, while in America students are being detained and deported for their political views, among other terrifying assaults on free expression. And that’s not to mention so many other countries around the globe, where censorship is an all-too familiar part of everyday life. No matter where you are in the world, the proliferation of smartphones and social media has ushered in a new culture of surveillance, pressuring us to conform and censor ourselves, whether we’re conscious of it or not. This issue – the first in a new era of Dazed – is all about the people…

Willy Chavarria won’t be boxed in. His clothing refuses to be categorised, blending American sportswear with the designer’s Mexican heritage to create subverted suits, warped workwear and, more recently, high-glam evening looks. As an outspoken advocate for the Latinx community, he refuses to be silenced or censored – but never lets identity limit his worldview. His collections reflect this unpredictable approach, veering from politically charged sentiments to playfully stained jockstraps in the blink of an eye. Shows have been titled Cruising or Uncut, while gay porn studios are ripe ground for collaboration. Elsewhere his S/S26 presentation – Chavarria’s sophomore Paris show in June – began as a powerful vignette, models kneeling with hands clasped behind their backs, paying tribute to the detainees of Donald Trump’s Ice. “Whether we try to…

Three days ago, Ella Yelich-O’Connor stood before a crowd of 12,000 people in a Somerset field. Clad in a simple white T-shirt and jeans, she commanded them with the authority of a general, rallying them into a state of euphoria that defied the hour – 11:30am, typically a time at Glastonbury when festivalgoers are still festering in their tents, sweating off the night before. But on this day, Yelich-O’Connor – better known by her stage name, Lorde – was performing her new album, Virgin, as part of a surprise set on the day of its release. This understated power feels fitting for an artist who is not only one of the biggest pop stars in the world, but also one of the most impactful. It’s no exaggeration to say that…

Hair Mayuko Nakae using Oribe, make-up Bea Sweet, models Corinne Murray at Next, Joanna Lynn-Jacobs at Lulu Management, photographic assistant Piers Rochford, styling assistants Eli Richards, Alissar Bayoud Wynn, Molly Ellison, Sian Cuthbert Davis, Linda Shahïneze, hair assistant Kazuya Hirota, make-up assistant Saint Maretto, production Jack Stacey, casting Isabel Bush at Concrete Rep, casting assistant Vanessa Ng, special thanks The Columbia Hotel…

“Let's chop it up babe!” “I think being uncensored is an inherent part of being trans” “I’m not scared to speak about what I believe in… We were given a platform to speak, why not take it?” Hair Karim Belghiran at Art Partner, make-up Min Kim at Streeters, set design Jack Flanagan at Streeters, talent Alex Consani at IMG, digital tech Enea Arienti, photographic assistants Pierre Nowak, Remi Chautant, styling assistants Moni Jiang, Aroua Ammari, Camilla Poce, Kirsten Humphreys, Emma Hockenhull, Isabella Magee, hair assistant Pol Guarné Ayuso, make-up assistant Ranhee Park, set design assistants Caroline Rose Curdy, Konstantinos Kyriakopoulos, production Rachael Evans at Repro Agency, production assistant Meron Ayele, casting gk-ld As I prepare to meet Alex Consani and Vivian Wilson, I worry I’ll seem like Barbara Walters interviewing…

What does National Students for Justice in Palestine (NSJP) do? NSJP The NSJP is made up of current and former students. We are a resource for more than 400 Students for Justice in Palestine chapters across the US and Canada. What have the last two years felt like for you as a group? NSJP Really rough. Our board is primarily Palestinian and a lot of our students have family who have been martyred. A lot of that emotional weight gets translated into organising, almost as a coping mechanism to try and feel some sort of agency over the situation. As a group, what’s it been like to experience the amount of censorship and suppression you have faced? NSJP Our chapters have been deregistered or forcibly disbanded on a bunch of…

In an overwhelmingly digitised world, Wolfgang Tillmans remains as in love with print as ever. For more than three decades, the artist has used books, zines, prints, photocopies, magazines and posters as both the medium and the message – not just for their tactility, but as a way to disseminate his politically charged artworks to the widest audience, and as a democratising force that challenges the exclusivity of the art world. In Tillmans’ hands, photographing acts of resistance – whether that’s anti-war demonstrations or the queer club culture he has documented since the 1990s – is a form of protest in itself. So it was apt that the artist’s 2025 blockbuster retrospective, Nothing could have prepared us – Everything could have prepared us, was held not in the traditional galleries…

Hair Gabriel de Fries at Saint Germain, make-up Leana Ardeleanu at Artlist Paris, nails Sylvie Vacca at Call My Agent, model Evgenia Nirka at GIRL mgmt, photographic assistants Simon Wellington, Anthony Peyper, styling assistants Éléonore Cochener, Nina Victoria Marks, Maszia Oettgen, make-up assistant Gabrielle Cairoche, digital operator Christoph Stieber, movement direction Ryan Chappell, production Angels Production, post-production Hand Of God, casting Ben Grimes at Drive Represents, special thanks Les Studios Français…

Steve Lacy and Solange Knowles are so close they speak once a week. Hearing the two in conversation, it’s easy to see why: the warmth and synergy between them is palpable. You can feel it in My Skin My Logo, a song on Solange’s album When I Get Home. Lacy, who collaborated with Solange on the record, holds it down on bass, giving her a soulful foundation as she trades verses with Gucci Mane, her voice melding seamlessly with Lacy’s hypnotic groove. Both Lacy and Solange create work that resists easy categorisation. Borrowing freely from jazz, funk, soul and R&B, they combine these influences to craft sonic worlds entirely their own. There’s an undeniable realness in how both artists express themselves – Lacy with his love of dress-up, Solange with…

Hair Pawel Solis at Artlist Paris using Less Is More Organic Cosmetics, make-up Manu Kopp at Artlist Paris using Victoria Beckham Beauty, model Achol Kuir at MiLK, photographic assistant Quentin Collas, styling assistants Emily Orta, Léane Douillard, digital operator Emilian Jenrich, production Clara Smith at Smith Productions, on-set production Maëva Jaouen, casting AnD Casting…

“I killed the voice in my head a long time ago” Hair Kevin Ryan at Art + Commerce,makeup Jezz Hill at CLM, nails Mamie Onishi at See Management, lighting Ivory Serra, photographic assistant Austin Quintana, styling assistant Hannah Svensson, Ana Mendoza, Tori Secretario, production Fresh Produce, executive producer Izzy Cohan, producer Anna Blundell, production assistant Jack Eddy, casting Piotr Chamier at Streeters “The gradual shifting of the Overton window to the right in America is like a trainwreck you can’t stop… …and also, you’re on the train”…

Britain and Hong Kong have a deep and complex past. Established as a colony in 1841, Hong Kong remained under British rule until 1997, when the region was transferred to the People’s Republic of China in what was called “the handover”. Traces of this past are scattered through the city, from street names like Oxford Road and Baker Street to plug sockets (we’ve still got the same ones). It’s a place that is particularly close to my heart. I lived there for a year when I was 18 and spent much of my 20s travelling back and forth. I love my friends there, the lai chas, the Blade Runner-like urban landscape and the tropical natural beauty – the mountains, sea, lush vegetation and soft sand beaches. I’ve seen the city…

The young men in Soham Gupta’s Desi Boys series represent a distinct style of Indian masculinity. Coming from a variety of religious and caste backgrounds, these boys pair bootleg Gucci with gold chains and ripped jeans; they bleach their hair and sport tattoos that peek out from loud shirts and leather jackets rolled up at the sleeves. Often from poor or marginalised communities, Gupta’s subjects have big dreams fuelled by the digital boom of the past decade, opening them up to a world of influences and employment opportunities. Despite their sometimes intimidating exteriors, there’s a softness to the men in Gupta’s images – a tenderness in how they embrace, or smile when a besotted girl poses with them. For his ongoing series, the photographer spent long evenings with the boys…

Fashion curators usually have their work cut out ensuring that every item of clothing is meticulously pristine. That’s going to be less of an issue for a new exhibition taking place at the Barbican in London: Dirty Looks, which opens on September 20, brings together a collection of mucky pieces from more than 60 fashion houses across the globe – covered in mud, piss, blood, rust and the rest of it. Grime, it posits, is a transgressive antithesis to glam. “Fashion’s frequent association with ideas of perfection and glamour have long seen dirt deployed as a powerfully emotive symbol of resistance and liberation,” says Karen Van Godtsenhoven, who curated the show with Jon Astbury. Dirty Looks neatly follows on from the Barbican’s last fashion exhibition, shown in 2017. Titled The…

“I don’t even know how I got here,” Cortisa Star’s voice crackles on the line. Calling in from Paris, the Delaware-raised, Baltimore-based rapper is on the first leg of her first European tour after a whirlwind year, which has seen the 20-year-old go from virtual unknown to viral internet sensation. She’s received co-signs from Charli xcx and Doechii, to name but a few, and made her runway debut as a Miu Miu girl at Paris Fashion Week for A/W25 – all in a matter of months. “The rapping started as a joke and the modelling was so great,” she says. “Every day I wake up and I love it.” For Opia’s Bambi Dyboski and Bautista Botto Barilli, the party girls turned London fashion insiders, this evolution from underground to mainstream…

Fashion East first found its feet in Shoreditch at the turn of the millennium, rising out of a dingy warehouse off Brick Lane to become an unstoppable force in the world of fashion. In the ensuing decade and a half, the talent incubator has propelled countless designers to global recognition, from Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones, Maximilian Davis and Martine Rose to Grace Wales Bonner, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, A Sai Ta and Supriya Lele – the list is endless. Each season, Lulu Kennedy and partner-in-crime Raphaelle Moore, who together run the initiative, select a small contingent of young designers and spend a few months nurturing them, before catapulting them on to the London Fashion Week runway. It’s always one of the highlights of the schedule, often feeling more like a…

Hair Joe Burwin at Bryant Artists, make-up Satoko Watanabe at Artlist Paris, nails Sylvie Vacca at Call My Agent, models Ebba Boström at MIKAs Stockholm, Laura Savy at Elite, Nouné Kazarian at See Models, Saar Mansvelt Beck at Supreme Paris, photographic assistant Tokio Okada, styling assistant Barbara Anthofer, hair assistants Angèle Fumey, Mayna Sissoko, make-up assistants Vladimir Gueye, Pauline Scannapiéco, production Marissa Leitman at TheLink Mgmt, casting Ben Grimes at Drive Represents, casting assistant Tiago Martins…

“The fact they are going all this way to criminalise our speech, to criminalise dissent, means that what we’re doing matters” Mahmoud Khalil On March 8, 2025, Mahmoud Khalil was accosted by a group of masked men in the lobby of his own home in New York City. In front of his then-pregnant wife, Khalil – a legal green card holder of Palestinian descent – was taken by the group, who only identified themselves as Homeland Security. The 30-year-old student had been a negotiator during protests at Columbia University, calling on the Ivy League school to divest from companies with ties to Israel. The protests spread to campuses worldwide, prompting a pushback from President Trump that amounted to a staggering assault on academic freedoms. International students were threatened with deportation,…

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