Innholdsfortegnelse for Autumn 2022 i Dazed & Confused

My imagination began to form and take shape here, in front of my childhood bedroom window. In fact, most of my early memories start in this crimson-lined vantage point, looking out on to a small space under the stairs where I would play with my friends. Not much had changed upon my return to Sierra Leone, the place I called home for the early years of my life. Time had stood still here while my life had taken me on a crash-course of the good, the bad and everything in between. To be back was a humbling, grounding and necessary experience. In retrospect, I think that we, as Sierra Leoneans, develop a sense of hope from a young age. It’s not something I remember obtaining; in fact, I think it…

‘Indigenous’ is a term often used to distinguish a group on the outer limits of conventional thought from another larger, often over-represented group. In American and western society, this readiness to ‘other’ has not only been applied to aboriginal communities; the subscription holds rank in concepts, language, media, design, art and in Mariam Kamara’s chosen field – architecture. In colonial-era Niger, administrators of the French imperial economy over-politicised the existence of groups of people by deeming them ‘tribes’ to announce their incivility. “Are the French grouped as tribes? How about Italians, Austrians or Swiss-Germans?” says Kamara, who was born in Saint-Étienne, France but moved with her parents to Niger at an early age. Architecture can reproduce such prejudices, representing traditional aesthetics as primitive or underdeveloped to uphold reigning narratives that…

You’ve probably heard the trip tales that have become the stuff of legend in our new tech bro-approved era of psychedelic enthusiasm: white guy gets too high, climbs a tree, is humbled by the epiphany of his own tiny insignificance in the universe, and changes his life. From modern myths like Timothy Leary and Ram Dass (FKA Richard Alpert), to famed mycologist Paul Stamets, selfaware folk-rock hero Father John Misty and beyond, the white American male looms large in modern psychedelic legend. Here, we’ve endeavoured to collect stories of great trips that go beyond these perspectives. We need a more diverse range of voices now that psychedelics are transcending the taboo and gaining widespread acceptance, at long last, as medicine among governments and public health bodies – thanks in part…

That old song by of Montreal called “Lysergic Bliss”? Not wrong! Dropping acid with friends one night in Joshua Tree, the night of a super-blood moon, helped me to dissolve depression’s grip in my mid-20s. I had tripped on magic mushrooms before, just once, with friends in a borrowed cabin in the woods of Quebec. That was when I first started to write fiction and live on my own in the world for the first time. I grew up in small-town Maine, dealt with turmoil and depression at home all my life, scraped by with good enough grades to get into a university in Montreal, moved there at 18, got into my first serious long-term relationship, moved from the dorm straight into a home with him, and had lived that…

Hair RAMONA ESCHBACH at TOTAL, make-up MASAÉ ITO at MA+, models JADE RABARIVELO at FORD, JAN BAIBOON at SUPREME, ROUGUY FAYE at THE CLAW, TARA HALLIWELL at MODELS 1, set design SOPHEAR at ART + COMMERCE, photographic assistants MAYA ZARDI, FRÉDÉRIC TROEHLER, styling assistants ANDRA-AMELIA BUHAI, AROUA AMMARI, WENDY TRUONG, hair assistant ALAN ANTOINE, make-up assistants YIN LIU, set design assistants VICTOR LEVERRIER, GUILLAUME YABA, production CHARLY FORIN at CINQ ÉTOILES, production coordinator JULIEN NACCACHE, production assistants ÉDOUARD PRADEL-DELAMAZE, THOMAS NÉAUME, casting ANITA BITTON at ESTABLISHMENT NY…

Collaborative photography MICHEL WENZEL, styling assistants ARIELLE NEUHAUS GOLD, MARINA DE MAGALHAES, JAHNAVI SHARMA, production ROSIE DONOGHUE at UN/PRODUCED, production manager ANGIE SHERBOURNE, production assistant HANNAH GAGE, special thanks DEIN STEINBRUCH…

Hair MARI OHASHI at LGA MANAGEMENT using GHD, make-up HIROMI UEDA at ART + COMMERCE using SUQQU, models KHADIM THIAM at CHAPTER, DAVID IKUEPAMITAN at MILK, GAI and TALIB at MODELS 1, JACOB ADOLPHO at TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY, EMMANUEL ADJAYE at NEXT, MADLIN LOKITI at VIVA, ASHA YUSUF at PREMIER, CHI LINH PHAM at M&P, set design RACHEL THOMAS, lighting PEDRO FARIA, photographic assistants MAXWELL TOMLINSON, DAVID GILBEY, TAMIBÉ BOURDANNÉ, styling assistants FELIX PARADZA, MARK MUTYAMBIZI, ANDRAAMELIA BUHAI, EMILY GLEESON, GRZEGORZ BLAŹEWICZ, hair assistants NAO SATO, SHARON HAYFORD, make-up assistants PIA GARTNER, CZAR JOSHUA VENTURA, JANA REININGER, set design assistants ALICE RIGBY, HELEN ZARKINA, LEANNE WORSLEY, production MINI TITLE, casting HOLLY CULLEN…

When you step off the plane, arrive at a new destination, and the veil of night is slowly being pulled across the sky, the new morning often feels like an experience that awakens a part of you that had been sleeping before. The night before the morning after, Burna Boy headlined Tipsy, one of Barbados’s premier soca festivals – and today, it really does feel good to feel the grass beneath your feet. All it took was 24 hours in Bridgetown for the boy out of Port Harcourt, Nigeria to realise he dreamed of one day owning a house a stone’s throw from Rihanna’s family home on the island’s prestigious Sandy Lane. It wasn’t the palm tree-lined boulevards that swayed him, but the view out on to the vast nothingness…

All clothes and accessories worn throughout THEORY PROJECT BY LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER Hair ELIOT MCQUEEN at FUTURE REP, make-up ELAINE LYNSKEY, models XIE CHAOYU at PREMIER, MARTHA CLOUGH at PREMIER, JUDITH ONAH at MILK, GOY MICHAEL at PRM, AHEEM SOSA at IMG, photographic assistants LUKE JOHNSON, BEN TURNER, styling assistant VANESSA ALLER, hair assistant VIKTORIA KOSTRUK, make-up assistant TINA KHATRI, production KERRY DANSON at DANSON PRODUCTIONS, on-set production STEPHANIE LAWLEY, casting ROXANE DIA…

Zarah Sultana’s political journey began soon after the Cameron-Clegg coalition government tripled university fees in 2010. She was 17 at the time and due to start studying international relations and economics at the University of Birmingham. “I saw politicians appeal to young people for their votes, and then throw it back in their faces,” she recalls. Angered, she joined the free education movement and edged closer to Westminster. Today, the 28-year-old Labour MP for Coventry South is front and centre of some of the country’s most forward-thinking political movements. As a young socialist in parliament, Sultana has recently helped launch the ‘Enough Is Enough’ campaign, which aims to tackle the cost of living crisis by slashing energy bills, ensuring meaningful pay rises and taxing the rich. Elsewhere, she has joined…

For four decades, Dr Diana Reiss has tapped the frontiers of technology to mend language barriers between members of the animal kingdom. “I’d like to think I’ve had close encounters,” she said at a Ted Talk in 2011. “Not with ETs, but with other kinds of minds. Remarkable minds.” In 1981, Reiss installed a keyboard into the wall of a swimming pool and watched as dolphins used their snouts to ask for food and toys, as if thumbing through a dessert menu. Later, her experiments with underwater mirrors prompted a revelatory response from the mammals – whom she affectionately called ‘The Mentors’ – who wheeled, burped and winked at themselves like they were headed out-out. For Reiss, her research isn’t for those of us wanting to chat when no one…

You’re most known for your fashion and documentary photography, but you are also a fine art photographer. What are the markers of distinction in these genres for you, and do you have a preference? TYLER MITCHELL: I think that for quite a long time, there’s been external pressure from the outside world to make a decision and stick to that. I have this long trajectory of being from Atlanta making skateboarding videos and some music videos, which got me up to New York for film school. I wanted to take on photography in all its many forms, but I had anxiety about deciding what was more important; a picture printed on a magazine page or a picture exhibited in a gallery or museum space. I still think that, in people’s…

# 1017 ALYX 9SMalyxstudio.com4ELEMENT4element.co.uk A ACNE STUDIOSacnestudios.com ADIDAS ORIGINALSadidas.co.uk ALAÏAmaison-alaia.com ALEXANDER MCQUEENalexandermcqueen.com ALEXANDER WANGalexanderwang.com ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER HAUTE COUTUREalexandrevauthier.com AMINA MUADDIaminamuaddi.com ANDREĀDAMOandreaadamo.it ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOODviviennewestwood.com ANIYE RECORDSaniyeby.com ANN DEMEULEMEESTERanndemeulemeester.com ANNA-LIVIA POUPAUD@zannalivia ANTHONY PETOanthonypeto.com ANTONIO MARRASantoniomarras.com AV VATTEVavvattev.com B BALENCIAGAbalenciaga.com BALMAINbalmain.com BLUMARINEblumarine.com BOTTEGA VENETAbottegaveneta.com BOTTER botter.world BURBERRYburberry.com C CARHARTT WIPcarhartt-wip.com CARTIERcartier.com CDLM@cdlm.us CESTAINSI@cestainsi.funfactory CHANELchanel.com CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOYloverboy.net CHARVETcharvet.com CHLOÉchloe.com CHOPOVA LOWENAchopovalowena.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTINchristianlouboutin.com COPERNIcoperniparis.com COURRÈGEScourreges.com CRAIG GREENcraig-green.com D DAVID KOMAdavidkoma.com DIESELuk.diesel.com DIORdior.com DIVAMP COUTUREdivamp.com DOLCE & GABBANAdolcegabbana.com DSQUARED2dsquared2.com DUNHILLdunhill.com E EÉRA@eera EGONLABegonlab.com ELISSA POPPYelissapoppy.com EMILIO PUCCIpucci.com ENZO DAL MAS@enzo.dalmas ERDEMerdem.com ERNEST W BAKERernest-w-baker.com F FALKEfalke.com FENDIfendi.com FIDAN NOVRUZOVAfidannovruzova.com FILAfila.co.uk G GARETH PUGHgarethpughstudio.com GCDSgcds.com GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTUREgiambattistavalli.com GIVENCHYgivenchy.com GMBHgmbhgmbh.eu GOODE HATS@goode_hats GUCCIgucci.com GUESSguess.eu H HALPERNhalpernstudio.com HAUS OF HONEYhausofhoney.com HENRI HEBRARD@henrihebrard HERMÈShermes.com HOUSE OF FLORAhouseofflora.bigcartel.com HOUSE OF HARLOThouseofharlot.com HUGO KREIThugokreit.com I…

In 1938, the London Underground launched its new poster, “KEEPS LONDON GOING”, by surrealist artist Man Ray. It was a black and white Rayograph depicting two objects seemingly on a collision course, the tube’s roundel-and-bar logo tilted in motion facing its inspiration, the planet Saturn. This chance meeting in outer space had all the dream logic that was central to surrealism, a word coined in 1917 by writer Guillaume Apollinaire to describe a new kind of art concerned with the unconscious mind, dreams and repressed sexual desires. It was heavily influenced by Sigmund Freud’s The Interpretation of Dreams (1899), particularly with regards to his theories about the symbolism of objects. Through understanding dreams, the surrealists believed there was enormous potential to unbottle creative forces repressed by rational, orthodox codes of…

Capricorn It’s time to open up, frens. You get called cold, dismissive, heartless, soulless (this is not a read, I swear). But you’re all some caring muthafuckers. You sometimes see vulnerability as a weakness, but there is strength in being open and confiding with your people. You don’t have to be a grey cloud all the time. You can be a sunny sky. Heck, you could be a tree, a bird or a butterfly with the right shrooms. Moses, even! People want to love you and be there for you, but you have to show yourself love and let your hoes know that you need some help. SONG OF THE SEASON: “Open Up” by Daniel Caesar (he is uncancelled because Giveon ain’t it) Aquarius Do you get tired of wanting…

There’s a lot of noise being made about the ways music is consumed these days. The use of psychedelics in music spaces has been well documented, but in recent years there’s been growing conversation around the use of psychedelics for therapeutic and creative purposes, particularly since the pandemic lit the touchpaper for a global mental health crisis. Now we’re feeling less disconnected, it’s in our nature to find ways to come back to ourselves, and better understand the world around us. It’s a curiosity that pulled crowds to the Dreamachine, a throbbing, techno-pulsing audiovisual experience at Woolwich Market in London this spring. Created by Collective Act in collaboration with a team including Turner-prize winning artists Assemble and Grammy-nominated producer Jon Hopkins, the project was designed as a way to experience…

All clothes and accessories worn throughout LOEWE AW22 It’s the crack of dawn when I log on to my Zoom call with Devin Halbal, the New York multihyphenate known to her 380.6k TikTok followers as@Hal.Baddie. The sun is still on annual leave, but the second Halbal enters the chat from Denmark, wearing a baby-yellow tee with her brown curls framing her face, an immeasurable amount of sunshine is bestowed upon us. At just 24, she has captured the hearts of her followers – or ‘dolls’, as she calls them – with her humorous videos that blend spirituality, wit and travel vlogging with an effortless style. She proves time and time again to be a master wordsmith. Her phrases, including “Met Gala Behaviour” and “Elevate, Activate, Appreciate”, are embedded in the…

On my eighth birthday, I wished to have special powers when I blew out the candles on my cake. I woke up disappointed every day until my ninth birthday when I realised I’d had them all along; they were my imagination. It sounds trite, but growing up on the North Peckham Estate, a marginalised underclass community, my imagination helped me to navigate a world of poverty and crime. I would imagine that the sprawling estate was an international space station, and I was the youngest astronaut in human history. It wasn’t just me that did this; the whole endz keyed into the power of their imaginations, using them to douse the hardship of their current situation, imagine parallel realities and conceive alternate futures. Some used music, some used film, some…

What is your earliest impactful musical memory? How do you get your lashes on with your nails? In a parallel universe, what would you be doing right now? What would you tell your younger self? What’s your fantasy? Describe your sound in three words. What advice would you give to the next generation of cultural & nightlife tastemakers? If you could have any three wishes come true, what would they be? Hair VIRGINIE MOREIRA at MA+, make-up AMMY DRAMMEH at BRYANT ARTISTS, nails LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES at FUTURE REP, set design IBBY NJOYA at NEW SCHOOL, photographic assistants FELIX TW, VALDRIN REXHEPI, styling assistants ANDRA-AMELIA BUHAI, ROSIE BORGERHOFF MULDER, GRZEGORZ BLAZEWICZ, SULYKA ABUKAR, JENSON KAY-POLLEY, hair assistant CHARLES STANLEY, make-up assistant QUELLE BESTER, set design assistants AXEL DRURY, SAM EDYN,…

As a poor welfare state falls short and social housing fades away, the working-class people who have industrialised the nation’s cities are being priced out. In place of these necessities, they’re being promised the class-dividing horrors of ‘regeneration’ – or gentrification, as the process has come to be known. Council estates are demolished in anticipation of a flurry of new money relocating to the area. Wembley Park is a prime example of this. On first glance, one might believe that the revitalised district is a blossoming cultural hub for all. But residents are increasingly disillusioned by a shifting landscape and demographic, as familiar sights are replaced with something unrecognisable and polarising. Nabil Al-Kinani, a local resident and author of Privatise the Mandem – a radical blueprint and manifesto detailing how…

180 The Strand, the brutalist building bordering the bank of the Thames, is a hotbed of London’s creative milieu. Behind a sea of metallic shutters, notable faces comprise its community, with an exasperating waiting list of talent eager to get their names on the coveted studio doors. You’re as likely to catch Tremaine Emory in these corridors as you are a group of suits from the Kering HQ on tour. Rumour has it that, after posing by tables constructed from rescued and repurposed old Celine store tiling, Sinitta was caught fencing at the Alex Eagle health club in a pair of six-inch heels, no less. The likes of Samuel Ross, TikTok, Julian Knxx, New School Represents and Alaska Alaska have all found bases here, dictating styles in their respective fields…

Twenty-four-year-old Samuel de Saboia has been dubbed ‘the next Basquiat’ by the Brazilian media, a title the artist finds bittersweet, given that the Brooklyn-born painter died of a drug overdose aged 27. “I just don’t like how the story ends,” says De Saboia over Zoom, casually sitting on the floor in a sparkly black vest top. “There are definitely parts of [his life] we all want, but I prefer to create a narrative where I don’t spin off that way.” That said, there are undeniable similarities between the two. Like Basquiat, De Saboia is mild-mannered, friendly, talented beyond their years, and well-known for large gestural paintings that allude to their personal history, spiritualism and heritage. De Saboia has been recognised for their art since the age of 14. They gained…

Psychedelics have been used as healing agents and in religious rituals for thousands of years. From the early 20th century on, they have occupied a place within western culture as a site of inner exploration and a gateway to mystical experiences. Their relationship to mental health research is also longstanding: in the 1950s, psychiatrists would experiment with psychedelics to mimic the effects of illnesses like schizophrenia in the hope of better understanding them. Even though the trials during this period found LSD to be extraordinarily successful in treating patients, these efforts were curtailed as part of the backlash against the permissive counterculture of the subsequent decade. Up until now, if you wanted a shot at achieving hallucinatory enlightenment, you’d have to depend on knowing a guy who knows a guy…

I founded the first cannabis stock photography agency after being shocked at how photo agencies would stereotype people with terms like ‘stoner’. We partnered with Adobe and grew to over 30,000 images – and I knew that, eventually, people would need images of psilocybin mushrooms that also weren’t stereotypical. I started teaching myself how to grow my own so I could photograph them. I started growing mushrooms in my bedroom – I learned from reddit, the Shroomery [website] and Dr K [Mandrake]’s books. And I got really good at it. I believe it’s because I come from agrarian ancestry – Asians are farmers; that is very deep in my family because we had a lot of farms in China before the advent of communism. Growing is something that gives me…

The Mirage Mirror Mothership Brunch by DLT London events crew Days Like This (DLT) gave Black millennials a vibrant, joyous space to see themselves in the party scene. In 3022, they’ve taken that up a few galaxies to predict a hypersensory, psychedelic event that makes clubbing the most personal of experiences. LINE-UP: Mirror images of the night’s attendees, projected on to the stage – so everyone feels seen. SOUNDS: Scent-infused Afrobeats, physically textured R&B and colour-spectrum dancehall – for the ultimate synaesthetic effect. Afrobeats sounds release scents reflective of food and nature in Africa, giving a feeling of home. When dancehall plays, colours are released to match the vibrancy and energy of the room. For R&B, a variety of textures – rain, feathers, satin, leathers – fall on attendees in…

In a probing conversation between two generations of astronaut, SpaceX pilot Sian Proctor suits up with Alyssa Carson, 21-year-old space influencer and likely future explorer of Mars, to discuss their lifelong obsession with the stars, the problem with colonising planets – and why, when you solve problems in space, you solve them for Earth Sian Proctor and Alyssa Carson may be 31 years apart in age, but they share the same core belief: that space travel, if made genuinely equitable, is a fundamental endeavour for humanity. Proctor, aged 52, is a geology professor and science communicator who in 2021 became the first African American woman to pilot a spacecraft when she was launched into Earth’s orbit on the SpaceX Inspiration4 flight – the first orbital space flight with only private…

It’s 1961, and actor David Wayne has sat down to watch SAGA, the debut play by TXO, a new computer that was set to become the TS Eliot of artificial intelligence. “I am concerned with the world in which we are going to live tomorrow,” he says in the MIT documentary “The Thinking Machine”, “a world in which the digital machine may be of even greater importance than the atomic bomb.” Wayne went to MIT University in Massachusetts to draw up a moral compass for this new technology – a tinder flame he ruled “the closest thing to magic I have ever seen”. One boundary established was that machines can’t truly be intelligent until they had offered the world a new idea, planting a flag in unseen territory. “Until then,”…