After we sailed halfway around the world from Vancouver, British Columbia, our arrival in Madagascar was a revelation. In most places we’ve traveled, the fact that my husband, Evan, and I sailed there, from so far away, on our own 40-foot Meander catamaran, with a kid and a cat, has earned puzzled laughter and questions about pirates, storms and kitty litter. But in Madagascar, international sailboats are taken in stride — of course we’d sailed Ceilydh there. Why would we travel any other way?
At sunrise the dhows slip out of Crater Bay, past anchored boats, on the first whispers of wind. As the breeze fills in, the huge sails billow and strain against the willowy tree-trunk masts. Filled with all manner of passengers and goods (fruit, chickens, granite stones),…
