Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 4 2024 i CROWN

This has been a year of, as a mentor expressed, unsurprising surprises. A well-recognised and influential environmentalist, he told me that he found it amusing how a large portion of the general public refuses to acknowledge our evolving environment. Instead, we obsess over the nitty-gritty details as if that will be sufficient. Noticeably, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève chose to include an Eco-Innovation Prize, which went to Chopard. The luxury brand is one of the few mainstream luxury businesses that is wholly responsible, extending beyond even precious materials to recycled steel. Chopard’s efforts are thoroughly commendable, but its peers are noticeably silent on the issue of sustainable luxury, which, until it becomes a standard, will demand a premium from customers willing to support such efforts. (Chopard has chosen to…

Enamelling techniques have been a topic of focus in artistic watchmaking this year. Brands, from Hermès to Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, reveal new ways of working with vitreous enamel to create incredible displays.. Joining this list is Biver. The watchmaker announced its first collaboration timepiece for the unique watch produced for the TimeForArt auction. In case you’ve forgotten, the proceeds for this project are directed to the Swiss Institute, which is dedicated to contemporary art. Biver’s decision to work with Swiss artist Guillaume Ehinger for this Special Automatique is a fitting way to close this circle. Ehinger paints in the abstract impressionist style, often depicting landscapes of the region of Vevey, which is a short drive from Biver’s workshops in Givrins. The two have been friends for some time…

Michael Dubs first had the idea to create an independent workshop in Singapore over two decades ago. Working for a distributor of high-end Swiss watchmaking at the time, he noticed that sales associates utilised discounts to incentivise collectors to buy a watch. “Especially when it comes to high-end and independent watchmakers, it really broke my heart because I felt that it could be done differently,” he recalls. “If clients understood the craft and dedication it took to create a high complication, they would not be as driven by pricing. So, I thought it would be a fine idea to have an independent space where people could learn, gather, share their interest in horology, and understand it better. And for watch firms or collectors who needed their fine or high complication…

In Munich’s crisp autumn air, the excitement was palpable as journalists and select clients gathered to witness the unveiling of Patek Philippe’s latest masterpiece, the Cubitus. Among the VIP clients, anticipation was especially high. Some journalists had caught early glimpses, albeit from low-res images, yet the real thrill was in seeing the watch in person. Screens and print never do justice to a Patek Philippe; only firsthand experience can reveal the brand’s true artistry. At 3 pm, a group of journalists from Malaysia and Singapore entered Patek Philippe’s Germany headquarters. The brand had given us the honour of being the first to view the Cubitus – its first new collection in 25 years – up close. After a comprehensive briefing on its movement, we were ushered into a room filled…

This year has been a busy one for Breitling. Celebrating 140 years of its founding, it introduced several old-school classics, a high complication, a new range of Avenger watches, and a pre-owned retail project. Its flagship boutique in Raffles City Shopping Centre, designed with a new Breitling Loft concept, just celebrated its first anniversary. In addition, Breitling Malaysia is commemorating 30 years of retail presence in the country. Breitling Singapore presented a unique special edition, limited to just 60 pieces in steel. The Malaysian office introduced an exclusive Navitimer in two case materials, with 100 pieces in steel and 25 in rose gold. Sized at 43mm and featuring the second generation of the Navitimer case that was launched in 1964, it highlights an important design from the brand’s flagship collection…

When it comes to synthesised materials or additive manufacturing in watchmaking, Rado is, in many ways, at the front of the industry. High-tech ceramics are widely used across the industry today, but few have experimented with it in an advanced and deliberate way. Its benefits go beyond exceptional durability and corrosion resistance. High-tech ceramics are lightweight and do not deform even under great pressure. All of these qualities make it ideal for underwater use. When Adrian Bosshard took over the chief executive role from Matthias Breschan, one of his priorities was to develop the brand’s Captain Cook dive watch collection with high-tech ceramic from crown to bracelet. The biggest challenge to this is, of course, the consistency of colour and strength across the entire watch. The purity of the metallic…

Luminosity has always been a specialised focus for some watch maisons. Its origins began with highly radioactive material that glowed in the dark – radium. When scientists discovered the dangers of the material, radium was replaced with tritium pigments. Tritium is weakly radioactive, but the watch case itself blocks any exposure. Modern tritium phosphors have a far longer and greater luminosity and can be embedded into solid synthetics using additive manufacturing. In the last six years, we’ve seen watches go from cutout layered dials to fully lumed. This year, luminosity reached a peak with luminous cases. We’ve picked the best brightly lit watches if the thought of getting one has been looming in the back of your head. IWC Without a doubt, IWC has been punching up when it comes…

Just a decade ago, Grand Seiko was a known and well-appreciated brand within the industry. But beyond Japan’s borders, it flew largely under the radar simply because it enjoyed ample demand within Japan. The same period saw increasing interest in Japanese crafts and the spirit of ganbaru its craftspersons live by. Japanese luxury brands began venturing beyond its borders to great success. Seeing an opportunity to bring Japanese fine and high watchmaking to a wider audience, Grand Seiko established its own offices on each continent independent of the Seiko Group. The level of autonomy given to Grand Seiko’s global teams (in Asia-Pacific, Europe, and North America) is uncommon compared with most other conglomerates, but its benefits have been proven. The Colour Purple The Singapore-based Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific office was established…

By now, most of our readers would be aware that A. Lange & Söhne is marking a significant milestone for one of its most important timepieces. We’ve previously reported on a special exhibition, 30 Years of the LANGE 1, at ION Orchard Atrium, which toured the region and introduced the public to this remarkable icon. Along with any anniversaries, special editions are, of course, in order if not hotly anticipated. And Lange doesn’t disappoint. On the first day of its showcase, it released four limited-edition references of the watch in two sizes, premiering new colour and material combinations to the collection. The Lange 1 was launched 30 years ago on 24 October 1994 as part of a quartet of watches comprising the inaugural offering of the revived Saxon watchmaker. The…

Ultra-thin watchmaking has been a continued obsession in the industry since the mid-20th century. Piaget’s 12P calibre was not the first, but its record started a competition that continues to this day. Even brands that do not challenge world records declare their pursuit in subtler ways, with sub-10-millimetre cases. One notable exception is the Minerva Manufacture, named for the Roman goddess of wisdom (the equivalent of Athena). From its first movement by the Robert brothers, the Manufacture quickly gained renown for building sturdy sports and industrial watches, as well as professional chronographs. The movements were naturally thicker than those of their peers to guarantee reliability and ruggedness. In 2007, Montblanc acquired the Minerva Manufacture in Villeret and renamed it the Minerva Institute for Research of High Watchmaking. The initial idea…

This year brought a truly diverse selection of timepieces, for which we applaud the committee. It also demonstrates the challenges that watch brands today face: consumers expect creativity, craftsmanship, and timekeeping inventiveness and excellence. That demands a lot, especially from young watchmakers starting on their brand-building; to make a single success is far less challenging than the consistency audiences expect today. “Aiguille d'Or” Grand Prix IWC’s “The Golden Needle” win this year was practically a shoo-in and a given. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar, which has a secular perpetual calendar that accounts for the centennial leap days, along with a moonphase display that is accurate to 45 million years, emphasises the longevity of mechanical watchmaking. The refreshed design by Christian Knoop is equally spectacular, giving the entire collection a captivating visual…

When it comes to its Professional watches, Rolex has carefully dedicated its collections to specific purposes. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner, Cosmograph Daytona, and Yacht-Master lines venture into the seas, automobile racing, and sailing, respectively. Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. Embodying the rich heritage that has bound Rolex and the world of sailing since the 1950s, it offers a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water. Marine chronometry holds an important place in fine watchmaking, which Rolex shares from its earliest days. The Yacht-Master is testament to that heritage. It rewards the very best in yachting competition and symbolises the enduring bond between Rolex and the maritime world. A Collection for New Ideas…

The mid-20th century was really a milestone-making era for Blancpain. Not only was it helmed by the first female chief executive in the watch industry, but it was also setting important accomplishments. The Fifty Fathoms launched an entirely new category of tool watches and defined the standard for diving timepieces. And the aviation-centric Air Command also presented a flyback chronograph complication, making it one of the first brands to follow Longines in this achievement successfully. Blancpain had two case sizes for the Air Command, 36mm and 42mm. An early model owned by Jacques Cousteau was actually ordered by him in 1949, even though it was only delivered much later. The flyback chronograph function, an essential capability for pre-radar civil aviation in the past, allowed pilots to reset the chronograph with…

The idea of resonance – that an oscillator’s frequency will reach an ideal rate over time, amplifying the power delivered by the pallets – has been applied in mechanical timekeeping for centuries. In paired oscillators, this creates synchronous timekeeping, improving precision and maintaining stability. First observed by Christiaan Huygens, it was later applied to pocket watch movements by Breguet, then reproduced in wristwatches by F.P. Journe, Beat Haldimann, and Armin Strom in different ways. Now, Jean-François Mojon appears to have achieved the same without requiring a direct coupling of the hairsprings. Spinning Around The design of the Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon is centred around the jumping hour display, which is presented via two discs that are mounted on a triple arm display that is connected to the centre wheel. The…

The cycle of watchmaking in the post-quartz era seems to be taking a big round, trend-wise, to early wristwatches. The earliest examples of timekeepers made for wrist-wearing were designed as accessories and adorned with precious stones like fine or high jewellery for ladies. With compact movements and tiny dials that were often hidden away, they made the craft of gem-setting an integral component of fine watchmaking. In recent years, the watch-as-jewellery trend has resurged. Watch enthusiasts across the board view watches not just as instruments that tell time but as fine or high jewellery accessories that speak to their personal style. Today, the watch industry is filled with maisons that offer high jewellery timepieces that range from elegant and minimalist to opulent and captivating. One notable trend is in the…

Calibre UN-251 Flying Carrousel With Double Oscillators The Freak is the defining line between contemporary and legacy watchmaking. It opened the door wide for fine- and high-watchmaking to adopt unconventional materials from high-tech industries to horology. And even at 24 years of age, Ulysse Nardin still finds ways to freak collectors out. The latest is the Freak S for Watches of Switzerland’s (the UK company) 100th anniversary. Introduced just two years ago, the Freak S has two silicon oscillators with high-tech silicon and DiamonSil escapements. A vertical differential averages their rate, and the “Grinder” winding system that doubles rotor efficiency lies underneath the giant mainspring that doubles as the dial. In this special edition, the ‘dial’ is made of crystallised ruthenium (aka crystallium). Produced using vapour deposition on a substrate,…