Innholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2020 i CROWN

I’m gonna call it: this is the most uneasy editor’s note that I’d ever write. Really, how does one welcome readers to a magazine that celebrates the art and appreciation of watches at a time like this? In a world consumed by a global pandemic, race riots and battered economies, touting content that promotes material desires does seem, well, kind of tone-deaf and fatuous. Though many of our readers and peers have encouraged us - mostly by saying how important it is for publications like ours to offer a bit of escapism in times of stress – the truth is, horology isn’t a priority right now. And it is hard for us (by ‘us’, I mean all the people who make up the watch trade, from CEOs to factory operators)…

Loved for its classy character and friendly frequent flyer features, A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 Time Zone has been the German brand’s go-to dual-time offering for the past 15 years. Combining the Lange 1’s distinctive dial design and supreme ease-of-use that allows the user to see both home and away times at a glance, as well as set the away time by simply pushing a button to select from 24 different time zones, the Lange 1 Time Zone’s purpose-built functionality has endured over the years and seemed – to us, at least – a perfect travel companion. For Lange, though, its pursuit of perfection is relentless. As such, the brand has endowed the Lange 1 Time Zone with a few nifty upgrades in 2020 that make the watch even…

We will not be the first watch buffs, nor the last, to wonder why Rolex just doesn’t feel compelled to make high-complication timepieces. After all, given its fully verticalised in-house production facilities that can conceive mechanically advanced movement components – ranging from the state-of-the-art Chronergy escapement, to the Parachrom hairspring – surely Rolex could have created some insane tourbillons or perpetual calendars that would’ve easily left other brands in the dust? But no. For reasons best known to Rolex itself, the world’s largest watch brand has almost exclusively only focused on rolling out innovations and wristwatches that improve the basics principles of timekeeping – precision, robustness, and energy efficiency. And in this steadfast journey, Rolex has produced the most beloved and coveted horological icons of our time. Creations like the…

Designed to occupy Montblanc’s ‘vintage sports’ category as the brand sought to reorganise and re-energise its watch collections about five years ago, the Montblanc 1858 had the unenviable task of pulling watch collectors by the scruff of their necks and telling them, “Hey look, this is Montblanc, too.” And, as with any heavily-invested debut collection from a big-name brand, its margin for failure wasn’t wide. Launched in 2018 and inspired by the vintage Minerva pocket watches and chronographs from the 1920s and 1930s, the Montblanc 1858 collection displayed a rugged and retro sensibility that set itself apart from the classically elegant and motorsports-inspired collections that have long dominated the brand’s repertoire. But as fresh and exciting as the watches were, and as much as they channelled a spirit that’s closely…

Watch lovers who often bemoan the lack of creativity or freshness in their list of to-buys ought to consider casting their sights to Cartier. If there is one thing that the French maison has a good track record of, it is its knack for coming up with instantly identifiable timepieces. And Cartier’s hit-list is one that stretches back right to the start when the company first starting making wristwatches. The storied Santos-Dumont timepiece, which Louis Cartier, grandson of the company’s namesake founder, made for his aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, in 1904, may have cemented itself in the annals of horological history as the first wristwatch for men. But as the longevity of the Santos collection proves, the watch’s undisputed legacy wouldn’t have been as enduring, if not for its unmistakable…

When perusing a mechanical watch movement’s features, you’d certainly have come across the denominations ‘Hz’ (hertz) or ‘vph’ (vibrations per hour). The number of ‘Hz’ or ‘vph’ refer to the frequency of a watch, and they basically tell you how fast the movement ticks. Similar to how a clock’s pendulum sways from left to right to control its ‘tick-tock-ing’ speed, a component in the movement called the balance wheel performs the same task; except, instead of swinging from end to end, it oscillates clockwise and then anti-clockwise. The speed at which it oscillates – and regulates the beating of the watch – is referred to as the frequency. The balance wheel oscillates (or ‘vibrates’) at a fixed number of times per hour. The swing of the balance wheel from its…

I started my career in Kyoto, surrounded by World Heritage Sites and traditional Japanese crafts like Kimono textile, pottery, tatami and bamboo crafts. I’m a watch strap artist but also run my own business as a consultant for market entry to Singapore and Japan, marketing Japanese products and tourism for the overseas market. 47Ronin is dedicated to those who do not follow the status quo. It was named after a legendary historical samurai event where 47 ronins (samurais without a master) showed great courage and loyalty by taking revenge for the unjustified execution of their late master. I wanted to instil the essence of Japanese craft on a watch strap. It’s difficult to bring around a full kimono or a two-metre tatami mat to show how beautiful they are, so…

For a business that preaches the importance of the human touch and shared experiences, the watch trade now finds itself grappling with the lack of both; forced by the perils of nature and the prudence of legislation into an unprecedented slowdown. What would have been clockwork occurrences – factory operations, annual watch fairs, regional showcases, distributor orders, retail sales, media interviews, and so many more activities that keep the watch business running – are brought to a grinding halt. Even as we write, plans to resume the above are tentative. And just like how we are with our own families and friends, as members of this industry, CROWN’s instinct was to reach out to the watch brands and companies that we love and know so well. We felt the need…

All was not well for Abraham-Louis Breguet in the summer of 1792. The comfy life that the mercurial watchmaker had built for himself in Paris was crumbling all around him, as the French Revolution entered into its first phase of purging the monarchy. But it wasn’t just that social upheaval was bad for business. The master watchmaker was caught in the crossfire, torn between his life’s work and profession, and his political beliefs. The struggle between the upper class and the revolutionaries saw Breguet stuck in the middle, and a break from either divide could very well cost him his life. Although Breguet’s closest clients – those who could afford his innovative and highly crafted timepieces – comprised royals and wealthy noblemen, his own political beliefs leaned very much to…

Even though, like so many brands in 2020, Breitling had to rely on an online webcast to showcase its latest timepieces, the brand has lost none of it pizzazz. A sleekly produced ‘Global Summit’ webcast in April with CEO Georges Kern introducing the novelties, followed by endless rounds of video press conferences and interviews helmed by the man himself helped drum up excitement. But still, the products had to speak for themselves and, credit to Breitling, the brand didn’t seem like it was holding back. Prior to the Global Summit, Breitling had already launched the Top Time limited edition, a 1960s-inspired model available as an online exclusive, as well as the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, a like-for-like remake of the ‘Co-Pilot’ chronograph. For the online showcase, Breitling went much…

It was Frank Sinatra who literally sang the praises of New York City, searing it into our collective consciousness with the hit, ‘New York, New York’, when he popularised the tune four decades ago. Originally from Martin Scorsese’s film of the same name, the number was sung by Liza Minnelli’s character, Francine, belting out the hopes and dreams of one determined to make it in The Big Apple. For so many, New York City is the epitome of success—a mecca for aspiring thespians and musicians. But it’s also where glitz and glamour reside, with luxe soirees and glittering events like the annual Met Gala drawing society’s finest and brightest. It is this world in which Harry Winston finds itself firmly placed. King Of Diamonds With its reputation for being ‘Jeweller…

A. Lange & Söhne • #02-05A Ion Orchard Tel: 6509 1712 Audemars Piguet • #B2-207, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6688 7595 • #01-03, liat towers Tel: 6836 4918 Ball Watch For enquires, please call 6235 1811 Baume & Mercier For enquires, please call 6510 2767 Bell & Ross • #01-15 Mandarin Gallery Tel: 6884 6471 Blancpain • #B2-237 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 8771 Breguet • B2M-236 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6638 6006 Breitling • #01-03/04, Palais Renaisance Tel: 6732 8582 Bulgari • #B2-200 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6634 8313 • Level 1, Takashimaya Department Store Tel: 6735 6689 Cartier • #B1-39A, #B2-38 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel: 6688 7388 • #01-20, #02-10 Ion Orchard Tel:…

The global COVID-19 pandemic has forced Patek Philippe’s hand when it comes to its long-held retail strategy to eschew e-commerce. One of the world’s most respected watch manufacturers, Patek Philippe is a firm believer of selling its timepieces only through its network of authorised dealers, within their boutiques, so as to cultivate strong relations with its customers. However, the unprecedented downturn that has forced many retailers worldwide to shut their boutiques with government-mandated lockdowns, has led the company to adjust its position – at least for a while. Since the beginning of April 2020, Patek Philippe has green-lighted online sales of its watches for the affected authorised dealers. For instance, London-based dealers such as London Jewelers and Watches of Switzerland have started selling Patek Philippe watches through their websites. One…

Lord forbid if the resilient Swiss watch marques are going to let a close-to-global lockdown stand in the way of their annual watch showcase. Watches & Wonders 2020, the Geneva-based exposition that was rebranded from the longstanding SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), was slated to be take place as a physical exhibition in April 2020. However, the well-documented ravages of the worldwide health pandemic had made it logistically impossible – and not to mention, ethically wrong - to stage any sort of global exhibition, whether small scale or large. Challenges did not just come in tangible forms like grounded flights, banning of mass gatherings and social distancing. They also came in the form of moods and sentiments. Is it the right time to celebrate watches and watchmaking? What’s…

Jean-Marc Pontroué has been a fervent flag-bearer of Panerai’s ‘Laboratorio di Idee’ (Italian for ‘laboratory of ideas’) credo since he took over as the brand’s CEO in April 2018. Though the motto isn’t new – the company’s website states that it has been around since Panerai’s ‘debut on the international market’ – the phase has taken a more expansive meaning under Pontroué’s leadership. Besides being an actual research and development lab that focuses on creating new technical innovations, ‘Laboratorio di Idee’ is also a rallying cry for the company to be resourceful and inventive in all areas of the horological space. An example Pontroué gives is the “experiential campaign” that he introduced, where limitededition Luminor Submersibles are sold as a package with exclusive client experiences. This year, deep-pocketed Paneristis can…

In the glittery, gilded world of bejewelled timepieces, the Chopard Happy Sport stands apart from its peers for one simple reason – its stones can dance. There might have been other watches with higher carat count, or more extravagant gemstones, but the Happy Sport offers caprice like no other; its mobile diamonds sliding across the surface of the dial, bouncing off each other and the inside of the case at the slightest flick of the wrist, bringing life and sassiness to the watch that truly dserves its ‘Happy’ prefix. Though the Happy Sport started life in 1993 as a stainless steel sports line in an unusual union pairing the humble metal with dancing diamonds, the collection has since embraced a loftier and more flamboyant spirit. The use of gold cases…

Whether you are someone who just wants your watch to tell time accurately, or a collector who ventures to the farthest corners of horological academia, you’d have be acquainted with TAG Heuer at some point in your journey of watch appreciation. You’d know it every time you wind up a watch – the brand’s founder, Edouard Heuer, patented the crown-activated, keyless winding system back in 1869. Or, if you were an aficionado, you might’ve discussed the finer points of its ground-breaking innovations, such as the Mikrogrider that can measure time to 5/10,000ths of a second. Heck, even if you were more familiar with Chris Hemsworth than the Carrera, the spectre of TAG Heuer would’ve loomed large, as the brand partners many high-wattage celebrities and sports teams. And that’s just the…