Innholdsfortegnelse for Septemeber 2019 i CROWN

MICHAEL FRIEDMAN Audemars Piguet, Head of Complications What makes the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak iconic? The Royal Oak brings together different elements that express its history, legacy and future. Although it began life as an outstanding design (created by late watch designer Gérald Genta), this is only the start. A design is only a drawing until the work of human talents brings it to fruition. Audemars Piguet is known for complex case designs that are hand-finished with various techniques to create contrast and play of light, such as satin and mirror polishing. What the craftsmen (case makers, polishers, finishers) did on the Royal Oak’s case, bezel and bracelet was to make Genta’s design a reality, and it is central to the success of the Royal Oak. When it was first…

Many would remember 20 July 1969 as the day the Earth stood still. On that momentous day, an estimated 530 million people across the world watched, rapt, as Apollo 11 Commander Neil Armstrong and Lunar Module Pilot Edwin ‘Buzz’ Aldrin took one “small step” into the annals of history, becoming the first humans to walk on the Moon. We tend to talk a lot about history and tradition when evaluating the latest and greatest that the luxury watch world has to offer. It’s not every day, however, that we spotlight a watch that’s historic in and of itself. And that’s exactly what we find ourselves doing with Omega’s iconic Speedmaster – the first watch to be worn on the Moon. This year, Omega commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Apollo…

The year was 1962. US President John F. Kennedy was two years into his fateful term; John Glenn had just become the first American to orbit the earth; a little band called The Beatles was preparing to release its debut single Love Me Do. It was the beginning of a decade that would be characterised by ground-shaking social movements and counter-culture experimentation. Which, looking back, perhaps made it the most fitting time for Zenith to embark on making one of the most audacious chronograph movements the world had seen. The brief was simple: create an iconic watch that would be ready to launch in time to celebrate the Manufacture’s centenary. Of course, there’s nothing simple about designing an iconic watch, especially when your goals for said watch include the following…

Cutting a trim figure with an all-business demeanour, Yuichi Masuda fields questions with the calm, calculated poise of the seasoned industry veteran that he is. Forthright with both facts and opinions, the 65-year-old is surprisingly candid in his analysis of the fast-evolving digital watch market and takes no prisoners when outlining the tasks that lie ahead if Casio were to establish itself as a dominant force in years to come. Not that one ought to expect anything less. A pioneering figure at Casio, a company that he joined 1978, Masuda brings over four decades of experience to the table, including playing an instrumental role in the development and launch of the now world-famous G-Shock collection. Indeed, while fans of the G-Shock would be more familiar with Kikuo Ibe as the…

WHO Corum WHAT Women Entrepreneurs Award appreciation dinner, of which Corum is the official timepiece sponsor WHEN 9 July 2019 WHERE Sands Expo and Convention Centre WHO IWC Schaffhausen WHAT Launch of new Pilot’s Watches Silver Spitfire pilot, Matt Jones WHEN 1 June 2019 WHERE 1880 Private Members’ Club WHO Jaquet Droz WHAT Introduction of Jaquet Droz’s 2019 novelties WHEN 11 June 2019 WHERE Keyaki Garden Pavilion, Pan Pacific Hotel WHO Omega WHAT Exclusive exhibition and party commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission WHEN 16 July 2019 WHERE Singapore Wine Vault…

Take a moment – or more, actually – to examine the gorgeous, muscular prowess of the Calibre L952.2. This hand-wound movement comprises 729 parts, meticulously crafted and artfully assembled into a tiny, complex and powerful engine that drives a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Introduced in 2016, the Calibre L952.2 premiered in one of A. Lange & Söhne’s most outstanding models, the Datograph Tourbillon Perpetual, and its technical distinction is equalled by its architectural splendour and beauty. The movement resurfaces in this year’s version of the Datograph Tourbillon Perpetual in white gold with pink gold dial.…

Due to take place on 7 November in Geneva, the annual Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) watchmaking awards ceremony is starting to generate buzz as you read, with entries for the various award categories already closed in June and a slew of events including travelling exhibitions being planned for the coming months. The 19th edition of the GPHG will see 14 different categories being contested, including two new ones – the Diver’s Watch Prize for the best underwater tool watch, and the Iconic Watch Prize for the best men’s or women’s watch that has had an impact on horological culture for the past 25 years. Meantime, the Calendar and Astronomy Prize, and Horological Revelation Prize, which were omitted last year, make a return to the list of awards. The…

Midway through Harry Winston’s ‘Time To Move’ watch presentation at its Plan-les-Ouates manufactory in Geneva, one could sense a slight shift in the mood of the company’s staff. Time (excuse the pun) was running short. With many trays of new watches still waiting to be unveiled, employees tasked with presenting the timepieces were feeling a tad anxious about the clock running down. Yet the press gathered around the watches, which included CROWN, were oblivious to the squeeze in the schedule, as we continued to peer languidly into our loupes to examine the watches in greater detail. Not that you could blame us. There were lots to fawn over, and there was no way one could be casual or quick about appreciating those exquisite, miniature works of art. We could be…

The other day, my colleague rocked up to work with a new Casio G-Shock Full Metal 5000, a familiar model to Casio fans – very handsome and very sought-after (we’re still talking about the watch here). And, like we always do whenever someone in the office gets a new watch, I eagerly tried it on. To my dismay, it didn’t fit. And it had nothing to do with the bracelet length. With its huge integrated lugs, the watch simply didn’t sit well on my small, girly wrist. Now, I’m aware there’s a Baby-G department for ladies like me, but hold it, I’m not after the pastel-hued tickers or Hello Kitty collabs there. For sure, there are women who love those, but I want the sexy, rugged, bold aesthetic of the…

You know the funny thing about the many modern conveniences that make our world go round? Fast Internet. Next-day deliveries. Smartphones. Once a breakthrough innovation or idea is released into the ether and becomes part of the status quo – a way of life – it becomes harder and harder to remember what life was like before that was the case. The same could be said of modern-day tourbillons. These increasingly artisanal and complex micro-engineering horological marvels that we enjoy today owe pretty much to a spark ignited by Franck Muller, a company that incited a tourbillon revolution over 15 years ago. The leap that Franck Muller, a self-styled ‘Master of Complications’ took, elevated tourbillon watches from technically complex creations into veritable works of art and raised the bar for…

Much has been made about Vacheron Constantin’s indisputable history as the world’s longest-running watch manufacture. To date, the company has been in existence for 264 freaking years. Before there was electricity, and at a time when humans only just discovered carbon dioxide, Vacheron Constantin was making classy and outrageously complex timekeepers. But as much as terms like ‘historic’ or ‘grand old dame’ are often conveniently used to describe the veritable Swiss horological giant, it would be way off the mark to suggest that Vacheron Constantin’s legacy is entrenched in the past. Rather, like it was back then, the watch brand today has always been in sync with – if not quite ahead of – the times. For proof, look no further than the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, one of…

Although Montblanc’s impressive range of writing instruments are highly aspirational, the brand’s approach towards its timepieces seems to have, in recent years, been leaning toward greater accessibility. For customers, this doesn’t just mean more uppity Montblanc watches in the €2,000 to €5,000 price category, but also the chance to gain a deeper appreciation for the collections, which have been better organised. What was once a dizzying offering of 10 different product lines has been reduced to a more easily distinguishable six. The 4810 and Heritage collections cover classic men’s watches, while women have the Bohème family. Meantime, professional sports models bear the TimeWalker and 1858 stylings, while everything in-between goes into the Star family. Classic Foundation That said, it would be wrong to regard the Star collection as an orphanage…

They say imitation is the best form of flattery, and judging by the number of sporty, square cased watches that were released in the wake of Bell & Ross’ launch of its seminal BR 01 collection in 2005, the brains behind the collection must have felt mightily pleased. The BR 01 represented the mother lode of watch design. Sporting a look inspired by aviation instrumental panels, the watch was distinctive, evocative and instantly iconic. And as far as iconic watches go, the BR 01 was everything Bell & Ross could’ve hoped for, as it propelled the brand into public consciousness and spawned an entire catalogue ranging from top-level complications to dive watches that still bear the design hallmarks of the original creation. Having said that, it would be unfair to…

Just what will it take for the Swiss watch business to go on another bull run? Against the backdrop of Brexit and China’s cautious economic outlook, Swiss watch exports endured a roller-coaster performance for the first half of 2019. Swiss watch exports registered a modest 2.9 per cent increase in the first quarter before dipping sharply in the second quarter, especially in June, which saw a 10.7 per cent decline. This has resulted in a flat year-on-year increase of 1.4 per cent, amounting to CHF10.4 billion. Interestingly, it was the mid- to high-range watches, with prices starting from CHF3,000 that performed better, accounting for a six per cent rise in value, while the value for lower-priced watches fell by almost 15 per cent. These figures are consistent with the performance…

Announcements for new ambassadors and ‘friends of brand’ have been rife in recent months, with brands cosying up to the entertainment, sports and culinary fields. From China’s hottest new starlets to a two-Michelin star chef, Swiss watch brands are upping the glam and celeb ante, as they attempt to turn more heads to the wonderful world of horology. In June, Panerai introduced Olympic swimmer Gregorio Paltrineri as official Italian ambassador. But it was in July when things really escalated. Montblanc started the ball rolling by unveiling Wu Jinyan and Qin Lan of Yanxi Palace fame as its newest ‘friends of brand’. Next was Blancpain, which enlisted two Michelin-starred chef Julien Royer, who runs French restaurant Odette in Singapore, as ambassador. Last but not least, Zenith welcomed Franky Zapata, the daredevil…

As we write this, the countdown to the finale of the Lange 1’s 25th anniversary celebration is well underway. It is August, and eight out of 10 commemorative Lange 1 editions had been launched in an elaborate lead-up to the collection’s birthday on 24 October. Incidentally, it is also the day that the modern incarnation of A. Lange & Söhne was relaunched (though founded in 1845, Lange’s operations were wiped out in the wake of World War II. The brand was later re-established by the founder’s great-grandson Walter Lange and entrepreneur Günter Blümlein). The journey of the Lange 1 is inextricably linked to that of A. Lange & Söhne’s. On the day of the brand’s relaunch in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne showcased four collections, including the Lange 1. There…

ZENITH El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th On 14 October 2012, ‘the brand with the guiding star’ literally sent one of its watches into the stratosphere. Zenith’s partner was Austrian skydiver and daredevil Felix Baumgartner, and the record-breaking Red Bull Stratos mission was the culmination of five years of meticulous planning. The goal was simple: to see Baumgartner (and his El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th) become the first person – and watch – to break the speed of sound in freefall. On the big day, Baumgartner was dressed in a souped-up spacesuit with Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th strapped to his wrist. He ascended 120,000ft in a stratospheric balloon and made the plunge of a lifetime. Millions of eyes sat glued to their screens as he stepped…

When Citizen celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2018, the Japanese horological giant commemorated the occasion as any brand would a centenary. The brand’s marketers naturally embarked on efforts to remind us of Citizen’s historical significance and impact on modern watchmaking, while on the sales front, fans were piqued with hotly coveted commemorative models and limited editions. But in the midst of contemplative high-fiving and crowd-pleasing watches, Citizen also made it a point to show that the brand didn’t get to 100 years old by resting on its laurels. So, it is rather appropriate that on its 100th anniversary, Citizen also chose to unveil a creation that wasn’t quite fully formed and still a work in progress – the Calibre 0100 Eco-Drive movement. When it was introduced at Baselworld 2018, the…

Anyone who has paid good money for a watch knows that the journey of owning a great timepiece doesn’t end when the credit card’s swiped, and the prized accoutrement is proudly brandished on the wrist. Rather, proper care and upkeep of a watch are just as important to the horological experience, especially if one intends for the precious ticker to last for generations to come. The rule of thumb is to have your mechanical watch serviced every five years. Think of it as a preventive measure, like how you’d have your car serviced regularly. Similarly, parts in a watch movement need to be checked for wear-and-tear, and the lubricant inspected to prevent coagulation. It also goes without saying that you’d want to place your watches in trusted hands for service…

Though not as technically complex (or expensive) as the likes of a tourbillon or minute repeater, the humble moonphase display still ranks as one of the most evocative complications that one can have in his wristwatch. Indeed, apart from calendar displays, we are hard-pressed to think of another complication that is more artistically and fiscally accessible than the moonphase – unlike loftier complications, a moonphase function, which charts the waxing and waning of the Moon, is charmingly democratic and found in timepieces across the price spectrum. For artists working in the fields of prose and poetry, the Moon has been a source of endless fascination to watchmakers throughout history. After all, the notion of timekeeping was borne of our need to track the passages of time, starting with sunrise and…