Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i CROWN

Ong Weisheng Stylist Formerly an in-house stylist for a high-society magazine, Weisheng brings eight years of experience to his freelance work. Fond of constructing mini sets for his shoots, Weisheng believes in tailoring his style to suit the subject matter; an approach evident in his evocative watch and jewellery spreads. Yeo Suan Futt, Writer As a generalist, a career in writing has enabled Yeo Suan Futt to pursue his many interests. He started out as a trade journalist covering the timber and woodworking industry, before moving on to writing on a host of topics in the lifestyle press, including men’s interest, motoring, cuisine, travel, technology and timepieces. He has also authored several volumes on local true crime. Celine Yap, Writer Having spent more than 10 years in luxury watch journalism,…

A brand that takes the art of design seriously, Rado is not only one of the most decorated watch brands with a cabinet full of awards, the brand also actively promotes good design by collaborating with other designers to conceive its timepieces, as well sponsoring design awards and events. Naturally, the active participation shows, with Rado chalking up over 30 design awards at last count, the latest of which is the Good Design Award 2016 for the HyperChrome Ultra Light. The timepiece in question is a state-of-the-art creation that marries Rado’s prowess in high-tech ceramic construction with amazing lightness. Weighing just 56 grams, the HyperChrome Ultra Light features a silicon nitrite ceramic case, a movement comprising anodised aluminium components, and hardened titanium case inserts. The win made it three design…

“Aye!” Alvin Wong In the same way that no Michelin-starred dish can measure up to a home-cooked meal by mum, when compared to watches from smaller, niche independent marques, the best timepieces from most well-financed luxury watch brands are stacked against A RATHER INTANGIBLE VIRTUE CALLED ‘SOUL’. Now to be clear, we are not debating which makes better watches, but rather, expresses a purer approach. When creating a new timepiece, a conglomerate-backed heavyweight hums like a well-oiled machine. From concept, to design, to prototyping, to manufacturing, to marketing – every step is subjected to a multi-layered, multi-departmental process, carefully put in place to ensure that each roll-out delivers nothing less than maximum returns for shareholders. While we are not saying that independents eschew commercial rewards – after all, this is…

IN BRIEF: The French luxury maison spares no expense to send its cash registers ringing. A CLOSER LOOK: Like just about every luxury watch brand exhibiting at this SIHH, Cartier’s hand was forced by economic uncertainties to sharpen its focus. As such, the brand is banking on the Panthére de Cartier and Drive de Cartier collections – a hugely popular women’s collection from the 1980s, and a newly minted men’s line introduced just last year, respectively – to deliver maximum commercial impact. Cartier isn’t rocking the boat too much – not at all, in fact – with the Panthére de Cartier women’s line, revived with minor tweaks to its design. The watches, defined by square cases with soft curves, Santos-like screw-down bezels, and supple link bracelets, are easy on the…

IN BRIEF: Behold the world’s lightest and toughest split-seconds chronograph. A CLOSER LOOK: The story goes that Richard Mille himself had dreamt of working with the McLaren Formula One team since he was a kid. Way back in 1966, to be exact, when Mille’s father brought him to a Grand Prix, where he saw the team making their debut. The drive was so strong (excuse the pun), that when the chance for a collaboration finally came last year, Richard Mille inked a 10-year partnership with the team, locking in a long-term tie-up that promises to be quite a high-octane ride. The first watch to emerge from this partnership is the RM53-03 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Tourbillon Ultralight McLaren F1. This here is the planet’s lightest split-seconds chronograph ever. The entire watch, including…

IN BRIEF: The grand dame of luxury horology shows who’s boss of complication watchmaking. A CLOSER LOOK: Vacheron Constantin seems determined to melt our brains with offerings so technically bold and ostentatious, not to mention top-dollar, that we had to pinch ourselves to check if the rest of the watch industry is indeed grappling with an uncertain economy. Vacheron Constantin’s 2017 outputs are broadly categorised by two pillars: astronomical watches, and chiming watches. For the former, it offers the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which boasts 23 complications, all pertaining to astronomical displays, and costs close to a cool US$1 million. It is the most complicated wristwatch that the brand has ever produced, with functions that include equation of time, instantaneous perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, length…

Elusive yet cherished, mysterious yet majestic – the moon has fascinated man throughout the ages. Little wonder then, watchmakers, too, have long sought to capture its charms in timepieces that are usually regarded as gateway complications. A complication that charts the waxing and waning of the moon, the moon phase display is usually regarded as an ornamental feature that serves more poetic than practical purposes. Unlike a tourbillon, which serves to negate the effects of gravity on the regulating components of a watch, or a perpetual calendar, which tells the user everything he needs to know about the moment in a calendar year, a moon phase serves no purpose, really. It has led some collectors to term it as an “emotional complication”, despite technical advances that allow the mechanism to…

If you’ve never taken your luxury dive watch anywhere remotely near the ocean, don’t worry, you’re not alone. While it’s perfectly equipped to handle recreational trips to the coral reefs, you may not relish the thought of exposing your expensive old and gemencrusted ‘dive watch’ to briny ocean water. These days, dive tool watches range in price and function, from the basic three-hand timepiece ece with uni-directional rotating bezel, to dive computers with everything from decompression sion algorithms to air and nitrox settings. Unless you’re a really serious diver who spends extended periods of time underwater, chances are, you’ll be more than happy with a range dive watch that works for mid-your weekend trips. One name that’s been surfacing (excuse the pun) in recent years is Tudor. Having been in…

Mechanical, good; quartz, bad. That has been the mantra for legions of horological aficionados and many luxury watch marques. But is it the absolute truth? Quartz movements tend to get a bad rep in the field of high-end watchmaking. The biggest reason, of course, is that they almost wiped out the entire Swiss watchmaking industry. In the late 1970s when quartz movements were first introduced, almost every Swiss watch brand relied on the production of mechanical timepieces. As a result, the cheaper and more accurate quartz movement was considered an affront and an enemy to the centuries-old tradition, values, and, not to mention, lucrative business, that anchored the entire watch trade. Indeed, due to the rapid proliferation of quartz watches, many traditional watch brands went bust or were sold for…

NOMOS Orion Neomatik An excellent starter piece for watch neophytes, the Orion Neomatik also ought to be on the radar of those who are looking for an affordable timepiece with an in-house mechanical movement. By now, Nomos devotees should be familiar with the new automatic DUW 3001 calibre, which is fitted across the Glashüttebased manufacture’s novelties, and here timetelling is reduced to its very essence. Benefitting from the movement’s thinness, the Orion is ultra slim at 8.45mm, and a vision of refined simplicity as its white dial, and slender hands and indexes are framed by a 36mm case in polished stainless steel. H. MOSER & CIE. Venturer Big Date The Venturer Big Date’s minimalist appearance belies its complexity within. While one can’t deny its dashing good looks, it’s what’s inside…

If it was ponderous before, the wheels of change are surely in overdrive this year. As if it wasn’t enough that SIHH 2017 was preceded by more dismal annual report figures, the fair’s opening day was soured by the passing of Walter Lange, the man credited with reviving A. Lange & Söhne. And right after the exposition closed, anchor exhibitor the Richemont Group announced a slew of sweeping overhauls, including replacing the chief executive officers of Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin. Not that these ought to come as a surprise. Like in any business, calls for shakeups are loudest when bottom lines slide. Interestingly though, even the watch press, too, have been sharpening their scalpels. The more vociferous among us have been echoing the need for change. Some blame an…

Hot off the starting blocks when it was introduced in 2015, the Carrera Heuer-01 automatic chronograph quickly became a best-seller and flagship model for TAG Heuer, which was undergoing a repositioning exercise back then with the legendary Jean-Claude Biver newly on board as CEO. Starting from 5,000 Swiss francs, the watch’s attractive price point (especially so for a timepiece with an in-house movement), distinctive skeletonised dial and unique modular case – qualities that made it a hit in the first place – have been updated this year with an all-ceramic construction. In a first for the brand, the watch’s 12-part case, including the bezel and lugs, as well as bracelet, are all made of ceramic. The material, which has been micro-blasted for a satin-type finish, not only bestows the Carrera…

They came, they partied, and showed plenty of love, which all of us at HighEnd Media are infinitely thankful for. Over 100 business partners and readers-turned-friends of this magazine, as well as our sister publications, BILLIONAIRE and BLLNR.SG, turned up and rocked our annual year-end bash; bidding 2016 goodbye while affirming the close ties that are the cornerstone of this unique space we have come to know as ‘the luxury and lifestyle industry’. As the alcohol and party grub flowed, some lucky guests walked home with an array of gifts that included limited edition sake from Kikuzakari Hiyaroshi Genshu, portable speakers from Bang & Olufsen and a two-night stay at The Slate, a luxury beach resort in Phuket.…

IN BRIEF: From quartz creations to an astronomical complication, no stone is left unturned. A CLOSER LOOK: After spending several years at the BaselWorld watch fair, Girard-Perregaux is determined to make an impression on its ‘return’ to the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie by unveiling a full suite of timepieces that covers just about all bases. There is the Laureato, launched in the 1970s as a quartz line, and now revamped as an allencompassing family that counts in its lineup quartz watches for women, automatic watches for men, as well as tourbillons for connoisseurs. There are over 35 references to choose from, and if you are in the market for a refined and sporty timepiece, this is not a bad place to start. Elsewhere, fan favourites populate the offerings.…

IN BRIEF: Women collectors exert much overdue influence. A CLOSER LOOK: That women’s timepieces have accounted for close to 45 per cent of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent sales is as good a reason as any for the 184-year-old manufacture to channel a substantial amount of energy and creativity to please this rather under-served demographic. Although there are plenty of new men’s options from the iconic Reverso and Master Control lines, the brand is making its courtship plain. Taking centre stage is the Rendez-Vous collection, with a wonderful spread this year that includes small complications and gorgeous dress pieces. The most coveted of the lot is the Rendez-Vous Sonatina, an alarm watch with automatic movement that reminds the owner of her, well, rendezvous time with a sweet and pristine chime. Elsewhere, the moonphase…

IN BRIEF: Ushering a new age of contemporary elegance. A CLOSER LOOK: Borne out of one man’s vision of modern horology, Parmigiani Fleurier, founded in 1996 by master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani, has always operated on a wide canvas. The watches, a reflection of his tastes and philosophy, are known to be as exquisite as they are diverse, ranging from high complications to decorative watches to experimental sports models. This year, however, the new timepieces seem to express a sense of restraint, even as variety continues to be a defining factor. While we are treated to a wide repertoire, they are underscored by clean and fuss-free aesthetics. Examples include the Toric Chronometer, a decidedly classic-looking time- and date watch inspired by the first timepiece that Parmigiani created back in 1996; and…

IN BRIEF: This longstanding jewellery house’s natural knack for beauty and poetry shines through sublime technical offerings. A CLOSER LOOK: Possibly the least horologically inclined brand at the SIHH watch fair, Van Cleef & Arpels is a 121-year-old Parisan jewellery brand that appears, on the surface, to be better positioned to entice with extravagant baubles than high-mech timepieces. Yet, the brand’s presentations have proven to be hotly anticipated affairs among watch connoisseurs, thanks in large part to its so-called ‘poetic complications’ that marry time-telling and story-telling. This year’s highlight is the Lady Arpels Papillon Automate. Set against a gorgeous display of diamonds, mother-of-pearl sculpting, champlevé enamelling and plique-à-jour enamelling is the main complication: a butterfly at ‘9’, which flaps its wings randomly when one winds the watch or puts it…

SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR Stately, sober and sexy in a gentlemanly kind of way, this model in a platinum case from 2013 is a follow-up on previous versions in pink and white gold. The annual calendar complication undoubtedly anchors the watch’s functionality and design, but set against a monochromatic backdrop, the navy night sky with silver moon steals the spotlight. LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR Again, the moon phase display adds decorative finesse to an otherwise subtle expression of a multi-complication that combines the tourbillon and perpetual calendar. While both complications are heavily visually inclined, they are neatly tucked away to the dial’s outer frame (months), retrograde hands (day), a tiny aperture (leap year) and the case back (tourbillon), leaving the moon phase display to play up the visual drama on…

Short for Arts Décoratifs, from the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts) held in Paris in 1925, Art Deco originated in France just before World War I, proffering an optimistic, modern and glamorous style that inevitably ended with the abject misery and tragedy of global proportions that was World War II. This movement reflected the cosmopolitan spirit of the early 20th century, tapping inspiration far beyond the Cubism and Fauvism of its European heartland, with inflections of the exotic from elements of Chinese, Japanese, ancient Egypt, and Mayan art. The design language was translated into everything from household accessories, furniture and interior design, to paintings, sculpture, automobiles, ocean liners, buildings and skyscrapers, combining rich materials with exquisite craftsmanship. The form…

Like that uncle at the family party whom the teenagers love to hang with while getting looks of trepidation from their parents, H. Moser & Cie may claim to be ‘old’, but its spirit remains resolutely rebellious and refreshing. The Schaffhausen-based brand is officially 189 years old, having been established by its eponymous founder in St. Petersburg in 1828. Yet, it is still considered a young whippersnapper, more accurately defined by its modern history as the brand was re-established as recently as 2005 by the Moser family, who in turn in 2012, relinquished control to the familyowned MELB Holding, which also runs independent brand Hautlence. As the company’s trajectory suggests, there is a marked joining of dots between its past and present. At first glance, H. Moser’s offerings, which now…

STONE FOR GOLD – XIE HUI This LaSalle alumnus clearly has a creative streak in him. Having made accessories for himself and his friends while still in primary school, Xie Hui later picked up leather crafting to earn a bit of spare cash. Today, his handcrafted goods business makes everything from wallets and bracelets, to watch straps and car key cases. When we visited, there was even a prototype for a pair of boots. “I’m a trained designer rather than a craftsman,” Xie Hui reveals. That doesn’t mean his craftsmanship is inferior though, as evidenced in the quality straps and accessories on display in his studio. For those keen to learn more about leather crafting, he also conducts regular workshops where you can get hands-on experience in fashioning leather goods.…

ZENITH Heritage Cronometro TIPO CP 2 Watch collectors with a weakness for storied tickers should be pleased with this Zenith re-edition. Made for the Italian military in the 1960s, the original TIPO CP2 was limited to 2,500 pieces and relied upon by pilots even when they were not on missions. Aficionados will be hard pressed to tell the vintage and new models apart, because much of the forbear’s design has been retained, from the 43mm stainless steel case to the bi-compax chronograph layout. The biggest difference is its calibre, as instead of the historic hand-wound DP 146, it is now fitted with the automatic El Primero movement. Limited to 1,000 pieces. FRANCK MULLER Vanguard Krypton Carbon Here’s a timepiece that comes to life in the dark. Named after Kryptonite, the…

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“Watch collecting is too expensive a hobby for a jazz musician.”Jeremy Monteiro, award-winning pianist, who started his own watch brand last year “Observation skills, patience and a sense of obligation to the work.” Satoshi Hiraga, Seiko ‘Gold Meister’ Watchmaker, on the qualities needed to be a watchmaker “I’M THE SORT OF PERSON WHO DOES THINGS ALL THE WAY.”Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard co-president, on persevering with the Chopard LUC high-end watchmaking division “As watch artisans, all we want is to make our customers’ dreams come true.”Le Ngoc Thanh, Jaquet Droz dial artisan, on job obligations THERE WILL ALWAYS BE PROBLEMS TO OVERCOME. THAT’S WHAT BEING AN ENTREPRENEUR IS ALL ABOUT.Max Büsser, founder of MB&F, on entrepreneurship “True collectors are always looking for something special and exclusive, yet big brands are doing the opposite.”Christophe…

As far as air race and aerobatic pilots go, no one comes close to Breitling ambassador and leader of the Breitling Racing Team, Nigel Lamb. The highly decorated Briton, who started flying when he was 18, has won multiple world championships in his 40-year career, on top of piloting over 80 different types of aircraft and clocking in over 9,600 hours flying. So, when Lamb announced his retirement at the end of 2016 at the age of 60, thoughts naturally turned to his successor, who naturally has quite a fair bit to measure up against. As it turns out, Breitling Racing Team has got it covered. Thirty-year-old Frenchman, Mika Brageot, who once earned the accolade of being the youngest pilot to join the French Aerobatics team, will be taking over…

My first encounter with luxury was when I was 12. I received a silver bracelet as a gift from my parents. And I thought, “Silver! How luxurious is that!” Customers are bombarded with so much information these days. It all ties back to authentic creativity and craftsmanship. A brand must have those two values, along with a strong identity in order to stand out. The luxury business is about conveying emotions. This is what we do as purveyors of luxury, whether we are selling a fashion item, leather bag or an expensive watch. A successful brand needs a unique story. You think of Apple and you think innovation. For Porsche, performance. Companies need to find their own differentiation and added value. If not, it will be in danger of spending…

When is a strap not JUST a strap? When mastertinkering Roger Dubuis decides to get involved, that’s when. This year, the brand renowned for its uncompromisingly out-of-the-box and high-mech timepieces have teamed up with Pirelli to produce a series of co-branded timepieces. Besides the watches’ usual colour-coded nods to prestigious tyre maker, the straps are fitted rubber inlays from certified Pirelli tyres that actually competed and won motorsports championships. Plus, if it’s the double tourbillon model that you are eyeing – pictured, and limited to just eight pieces – you get an exclusive invitation for a two-day VIP program at a Pirelli-organised motorsport event. Now, how’s that for a wrist statement?…

IN BRIEF: The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections continue to reign supreme. A CLOSER LOOK: Why change a winning team, right? Say what you like about Audemars Piguet putting all its eggs in one basket with the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections, but it is a strategy that works brilliantly – to the tune of a marked increase in sales from 2015 to 2016. And so Royal Oak buffs get yet another bumper harvest of octagonal-shaped lovelies this year. It is a bit of a stretch to say that there is a Royal Oak to suit everyone’s tastes – if you are a fan, Royal Oak-anything will turn up the heat – but the number of iterations are really quite mind-boggling. For complication watch fans, there…

IN BRIEF: The reinforcement of a legacy in ultra-thin watches. A CLOSER LOOK: As far as Piaget is concerned, it is a truth that bears repeating over and over again: when it comes to ultrathin watches, the 143-year-old company is peerless. What’s more, with this year being the 60th anniversary of the Altiplano collection, the line that is home to Piaget’s ultra-thin movements, you can be sure that an epic roll-out of super svelte beauties is in store. The hype started building up in December last year, when the brand unveiled two commemorative Altiplanos featuring blue dials that bore the brand’s vintage logo and font from 1957, in 43mm and 37mm cases with ultra-thin automatic and handwound movements, respectively. At the start of the brand presentation, Piaget then-CEO Philippe Leopold-Metzger…

IN BRIEF: Mixed bag of goodies from the most self-sufficient and assured niche marque around. A CLOSER LOOK: A brand that demands horological maturity from watch lovers, Ulysse Nardin is one of contemporary watchmaking’s true trailblazers. From avant-garde escapements to silicon technology – all conceived and manufactured in-house – Ulysse Nardin has been there, and done that, way before a lot of other illustrious Swiss marques. The brand’s knack for forging new paths is perhaps best demonstrated by the new InnoVision2, a watch that boasts 10 thoroughly progressive features. We will delve into all of them properly in another issue, but some of the features include a dual constant escapement; a lubrication-less silicium escapement with a unique architecture that promises unparalleled torque and precision; and a special glass bridge that…

BREGUET – TRADITION CHRONOGRAPHE INDEPENDENT REF. 7077 A pioneer in the show-all genre of openworked dials, Breguet’s Traditional collection not only dares to bare, but does so by flexing mechanical muscle. This chronograph in white gold case is unlike any other, with a separate balance wheel and gear train for the complication, fitted with silicon pallets, balance springs and escape wheels – all proudly on display on its open-faced dial. JAQUET DROZ – GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIEME CÔTES DE GENÈVE The term ‘contemporary classic’ sounds like an oxymoron, but this handsome Jaquet Droz dress watch in stainless steel effortlessly blends the past and present in one swanky package. The Geneva Stripes decoration commonly found on the movement via the caseback takes centrestage, sheathed in black and paired with opaline chapter rings…

Pop open the caseback of any Swiss mechanical timepiece—particularly those from the entry-level or mid-range category—and there’s a high chance the movement is not made by the same company that made the watch. The oscillating rotor or main plate may be decorated with its insignia, but the movement is very likely made externally by such companies as ETA, Sellita, and Soprod. Producing anywhere from a few hundred thousand to several million movements a year, these pillars of the watch world virtually carry the weight of the industry on their shoulders. Doggedly they toil, but their contributions go largely unsung—or worse, the term “third-party movement” is occasionally used as a pejorative, a statement of judgement that is simplistic at best. ETA: WORKHORSE OF WORKHORSES Traditionally, unlike the English or the Germans,…

AUDEMARS PIGUET Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronograph Another superb tribute to Audemars Piguet’s co-founder, here’s a timepiece that we think its namesake himself would be proud to strap on. Previously available only in white gold, it looks even better with an 18K pink gold case that emanates a refined vintage vibe when paired with the brown alligator leather strap. Its openworked manualwinding movement remains a highlight as it is meticulously skeletonised to showcase its inner workings and hand-finishing. Providing additional visual interest, the watch’s tourbillon completes one revolution every 60 seconds to counter the effects of gravity on its accuracy. CARTIER Drive de Cartier Second Time Zone Day/Night Arguably the most intriguing looking one among the handsome Drive de Cartier collection, this watch surprises with its unusual dial layout, but it’s…

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Self-Winding 37mm The distinctive form of the Royal Oak is well loved, and possibly burned permanently into the minds of ardent watch lovers, which is why we adore this bi-colour version of the icon. Taking full advantage of the juxtaposition of stainless steel and 18K pink gold, signature elements of the watch are splendidly accentuated including the octagonal bezel, facetted crown, baton-shaped hour markers, as well as the connecting studs of the bracelet. Measuring 37mm across, it wouldn’t overwhelm most wrists, and gives us more room to admire the signature “Grande Tapisserie” pattern on its silver-toned dial. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso One Duetto Moon While feting the 85th birthday of the Reverso last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre didn’t forget to show some love to its female fans, dedicating the Reverso…

Every annual watch fair, whether in Geneva or Basel, brings a deluge of new creations that are groundbreaking and desirable, marched out by spirited companies that fight tooth-and-nail to uphold the true values of luxury watchmaking. Right? Righhhhht. Now, we are not trying to throw a shade on what us magazine folks hold dear as ‘editorial integrity’. At this publication, we do our best to report as we see it, so that our readers can take an educated view and make informed decisions. However, it is also safe to assume that the timepieces that we – or any other watch magazine, for that matter – decide to put out in print are, shall we put it mildly, carefully curated. By that, we mean that magazines show you only the good…