Jordan MacInnis is a writer based in Toronto.
Each spring, the tomatoes and cucumbers Lisa Cooper grows in greenhouses on her farm in Zephyr, Ontario, can be found at farmers’ markets in the province’s Durham region.
But in March, Ontario’s non-essential businesses, including farmers’ markets, were closed to slow the spread of COVID-19. With traditional outlets shut down, farmers had to adapt, and quickly. Instead of passing bags across crowded stalls and trading stories with customers, they went online, boxing orders and delivering them by truck to homes at an accelerated pace, conducting what’s typically a hands-on business with the addition of gloves, masks and six feet of distance.
This shift to e-commerce has created new pressure, and a renewed focus, on regional food systems. In April, markets in many…