Innholdsfortegnelse for 92 i Collezioni Uomo

NEW TAILORING A new approach to formality, new constructions, contemporary elegance SPORTY COUTURE Sportswear meets tailoring, a new formality SHAPES 3.0 Discovering new constructions, oversize, boxy SHIRTING New construnctions,very long shapes, mix up BLACK & WHITE Printing, stripes, floral, yin-yang mood NEO MILITARY Minimal visions, layering, desert colours CHECKS & STRIPES Colorful, micro and macro ETHNO STREET STYLE Streetwear and multicultural mood, tribal patterns, african vibes SUMMER LEATHER Washed or studded, formal mood or rock attitude, biker jackets PAJAMAS AND NIGHTGOWNS Pipelining and satins, long shades and elegant attire PATTERNS Wallpaper mood, mix up, floral and geometrics DENIM New shapes, new treatments, new washings BLACK PALMS Tropical mood, rock attitude, hibiscus and tucanos…

Sophisticated Touch Romantic young men wear garments with soft relaxed silhouettes and volumes including robes, pyjamas, trench coats, parkas, drawstring trousers, tailored lightweight knitwear. There are echoes of craftsmanship and of art in all its shapes and forms. Born in 1975 in Florence, the designer moved to New York and is very much appreciated by the American market. He is now back to Italy and to its Renaissance beauty. Giovane romantico, dalle silhouette e volumi morbidi e rilassati, indossa vestaglie e pigiama, trench, parka, pantaloni annodati e maglieria leggera sartoriale. Vi è l’eco dell’artigianato, dell’arte in tutte le sue forme. Stilista fiorentino, classe 1975, trasferitosi a New York e apprezzato dal mercato americano. Ora tornato in Italia e alle sue bellezze rinascimentali.…

Contemporary Urban Style Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. In sit amet libero semper, ornare erat quis, tincidunt ex. Donec felis nibh, fermentum in nibh vel, congue lobortis velit. Cras vel suscipit neque. Nunc risus sapien, ultricies vel magna a, porttitor tristique metus. Etiam purus libero, pharetra in efficitur vel, semper vitae tellus. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Morbi ligula erat, aliquet eu rhoncus aliquam, congue sed neque. Nam egestas euismod lorem, nec facilisis leo iaculis vitae. Nulla facilisi. Suspendisse ac dui nec arcu luctus fermentum. Maecenas vel pulvinar erat, a porttitor elit. Interdum et malesuada fames ac ante ipsum primis in faucibus. Vestibulum fringilla. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. In sit amet libero semper, ornare erat quis, tincidunt ex. Donec felis…

Digital Adventure Guest of Pitti Uomo, the Japanese designer Yoshio Kubo gives voice to the technological regeneration of menswear. Multimedia and the iconography of Millennials and later generations bring attention to details and new fits with a futuristic flair. Pokémon prints are, obviously, included. Ospite di Pitti Uomo, il designer giapponese Yoshio Kubo dà voce alla rigenerazione tecnologica della moda maschile. Protagonista la multimedialità e l’universo immaginifico delle generazioni Millennials e posteriori, per riportare l’attenzione al dettaglio e alle nuove vestibilità in chiave futuristica stampe Pokémon, incluse.…

Military Uniform The art of couture appliqués for uniforms and sportswear. Myar, the brand created by Andrea Rosso, re-edits original military clothing and fabrics into camouflage and urban garments. A sustainable and original approach to fashion with expert artisanal manufacturing: ideal for contemporary men. L’arte delle applicazioni couture nel campo di uniformi e sportswear. Myar, il marchio creato da Andrea Rosso, riedita capi e tessuti originali militari, divise camouflage e urbane. Un approccio sostenibile e originale alla moda, confezionata con sapienti tecniche artigiane per il gusto contemporaneo.…

Urban Warriors An edgy international urban streetwear designed by Andreas Melbostad in a blaze of layers that balance the change of seasons. Skin-tight leggings under tailored shorts worn with oversize tops, tailored jackets, technical blousons or nappa short jackets. Worn with leather boots, sneakers or double strap sandals, stretch denim is the king of the catwalk. Sportswear, techno, streetwear elements are gathered together to create versatile interchangeable garments. Urban streetwear grintoso, internazionale, disegnato da Andreas Melbostad in un tripudio di stratificazioni che equilibrano i cambi di stagione. Leggings calzati come una seconda pelle sotto bermuda e maglie oversize, giacche sartoria e giubbini tecnici o di nappa. Il denim stretch è il re della passerella e sfila con stivali in cuoio, sneaker e sandali doppio listino. Sport, tecno-era e spunti dalla…

Natural Codes Alessandro Sartori leads the collection into a series of informal relaxed garments edited with sartorial mastery and brightened up by pictorial colours and prints. Suits, jackets, bomber jackets, tank tops, round neck tops, joggers alongside formalwear. Everything is characterised by activewear details like oversize pockets, hoods, fretwork, inlays. Twelve made-to-measure customisable looks are available immediately with a eight week delivery time. Alessandro Sartori guida la prima collezione di capi informali e rilassati, editati con maestria sartoriale e illuminati da colori pittorici e fantasie. Abiti, giacche, bomber, canotte e maglie girocollo, pantaloni jogger alternati ai tagli formali, il tutto incorniciato con dettagli active, come tasche oversize, cappucci, trafori e intarsi. Dodici look saranno immediatamente disponibili ‘su misura’, personalizzabili, con consegna in otto settimane.…

(In)Formal Poetry Transversality, romance and art for suits suitable for work as well as for leisure. An aesthetic bon chic bon genre journey, sometimes open to unexpected new variations. Overcoats, trench coats, safari jackets, windbreakers. Suits like uniforms, bibs, free-from-any-rule unfinished knits. Artistic details on shirts worn with a misaligned tie, sneakers and tailored shorts. Trasversalità, romanticismo e arte, per abiti adatti all’ufficio come ad una vacanza. In un viaggio estetico e perbene, talvolta aperto a inaspettate nuove declinazioni. Soprabiti, trench, sahariane, giacche a vento in un primo strato, abiti uniforme e pettorine oppure maglie incompiute e libere da regole, a seguire. Tratti d’artista su camicie e dettagli, come una cravatta disallineata, su sneaker e bermuda.…

Street Tailoring A contemporary, urban, romantic, sporty, masterly tailored and manufactured wardrobe. Alessandro Dell’Acqua sends down the catwalk flashes of intense, full, total colour. Stylish overcoats and suits with slightly fitted at the waist volumes combined with straight boxy sporty sweatshirts and tops softened with arty flowers and colours. Casual informal footwear with colourful running shoes, velcro slipons, sandals and socks. Contemporaneo urbano, romanticamente sportivo, con sapiente mano e cura sartoriale, il guardaroba di Alessandro Dell’Acqua aggiunge in passerella lampi di intenso colore, totale, pieno. Soprabiti e completi stilosi, con volumi leggermente sciancrati, si abbinano a felpe e maglie dritte, squadrate, di gusto sportivo, ingentilite da fiori e cromie artistiche. La calzata è informale, running colorate, slip on con velcro, sandali e calze.…

Ethno Glam Milan Vukmirovic reconfirms the aesthetic direction of the brand in a sporty and urban lifestyle key combined with a cultural vision filled with fraternity and union regardless of diversity through colour, strength, optimism. In some ways, the inspiration refers back to the 1980’s, from the New York’s hip-hop culture to the pacifist black movement, but is reinterpreted in a contemporary artisanal key. Milan Vukmirovic riconferma la direzione estetica del marchio, in chiave lifestyle sportivo e urbano, ed anche la sua visione culturale che incita alla fratellanza, alla unione fra diversità, con forza, colore e ottimismo. In alcuni tratti, l’ispirazione è estratta dagli anni Ottanta, dalla cultura hip-hop newyorkese, dal movimento black senza violenza, in rivisitazioni artigianali contemporanee.…

80’s Glam Edgy romantic dandies wear leather and denim biker jackets, parachute-inspired sporty pieces, sartorial blousons and tailored trousers with stitching in clear view. Energetic and individualist choices of colourful patchworks softened by pastel tones. On the catwalk also a series of jumpsuits, the new key seasonal item, washed denim, pyjamas jackets. The accessories in the foreground are sneakers, backpacks and slippers. Un dandy grintoso e romantico, con giacche biker di pelle e in denim, pezzi sportivi d’ispirazione paracadutismo, blouson e pantaloni sartoria dalle impunture a vista. Energico e individualista nelle scelte dei patchwork di colore, ingentilito poi dai toni pastello. In passerella anche la tuta, nuovo capo chiave di stagione, il denim lavato, le giacche pigiama e gli accessori, sneaker, zaini e pantofole in primo piano.…

FASHION REFORMISM The rebel Angelos Frentzos pushes fashion towards rethinking and innovating. ‘Fashion Reformism’ is the motto that allows to play with elegant classics menswear items, to mix them with athletic pieces, to adjust them to urban needs like functionality and comfort. College-wear and sportswear derivatives, oversize volumes alongside slim-fit silhouettes, a-gender garments. Il ribelle Angelos Frentzos spinge moda e pensiero a innovare. ‘Riformismo alla moda’ è lo slogan che permette di giocare coi classici dell’eleganza maschile, mescolarli al fascino atletico e regolarli su funzionalità e comodità cittadine. College-wear e sport derivati, volumi over a contrasto con pezzi asciutti, proposte a-gender di stile e materiche. www.angelosfrentzos.eu…

SPORT & ETHNO BRIT Opposite and harmonious, every Ermanno Scervino piece and look combines sportswear, a cosmopolitan flavour, British style references, ethnic elements. A mix that characterises military-style overcoats, faded jeans, joggers, tailored shorts, stripy shirts and tops, sometimes full of inlays, palm patterns and color brushstrokes. Oppostie armonici, ogni pezzo e look di Ermanno Scervino mescola sartoria con sport, gusto cosmopolita di matrice britannica e sapore etnico. Personalizzando soprabiti militari, jeans sfrangiati, jogger, bermuda, camicie e maglie rigate, talora pieni di intarsi, palme e pennellate di colore. www.ermannoscervino.it…

URBAN PERFORMANCE A tale of performance-wear, resort, lifestyle for Rossignol Apparel with the aim of keeping alive its heritage in both apparel and accessories in a contemporary urban key, always characterised by the tricolour cockerel logo. The key items are the lightweight bomber jackets, the knitwear with tricolour stripes, the logo sweatshirts, the sneakers. Storia di performance e di resort lifestyle per Rossignol Apparel, con l’obiettivo di mantenerne i saldi riferimenti nell’abbigliamento e negli accessori. Anche in una visione contemporanea di moda urbana propria del galletto tricolore. Con i key-items più forti estivi, leggeri bomber, maglieria con banda tricolore, felpe logate, sneaker. www.rossignol.com…

Bohemian Rock Gothic and romantic, a collection with a definitely English taste. On a sartorial basis classic silhouettes develop, made of dresses, outerwear and raincoats and then the dandy punk soul let loose, a bit egocentric surely, yet chic and elegant. McQueen’s man dares bold colours, blood red, black, white and ivory and passses from Prince of Wales to English decor. Embroideries let see fibres like fringes, Jacquard fabrics in silk thread feature their reverse side and fragments from Rudyard Kipling’s 1898 poem “The Explorer” become a print. Gotica e romantica, una collezione decisamente di gusto inglese. Su una base sartoriale si sviluppano silhouette classiche costituite da abiti, cappotti e impermeabili e poi si scatena l’anima dandy punk, un tocco egocentrico ma pur sempre chic ed elegante. L’uomo McQueen osa…

New Visions Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s art director, a fan of filmmaker’s Robert Bresson, takes the cue from one of his movies, “Les Dames du bois de Boulogne”, and it is in full nature that he presents this collection inspired by simple everyday life, in a continuous over style where the already classic logos intersperse. Young dads introduce the arrival of the baby line, a copy compliant with this wardrobe with a look intentionally second-hand in an anti-fashion manifesto, provocative, where we find the essential garments like the hoodie, the polo shirt, the denim trouser and a striped or showy patterned shirt and a trouser modifiable in materials and colours. Demna Gvasalia, direttore artistico di Balenciaga, fan del regista Robert Bresson, prende spunto da uno dei suoi film, “Les Dames du…

Sport Déco A formal wardrobe, yet sporty and nonchalant, inspired by the tropical mood of the 80’s tv series “Miami Vice”. The silhouette is linear and clean, volumes and lenghts are classic, just like colours. Jason Basmajian, Cerruti 1881’s creative director, prefers playing with prints, stripes, pictures placed here and there and a graphic logo cut to keep a touch of modernity and a gusto with a taste of holidays. On the waistline extralong belts or a keychain, we find rucksacks, fabrics and leather travel bags and dark lenses sunglasses are worn. Un guardaroba formale ma sportivo e disinvolto, ispirato al mood tropicale anni ’80 della serie televisiva “Miami Vice”. La silhouette è lineare e pulita, volumi e lunghezze sono classici, come anche i colori. Jason Basmajian, direttore creativo di…

Nostalgic Elegance The purity of shapes, the wide proposal of delicate and elegant colours and some prints laying across each other over silhouettes made of large shoulder outerwear, with a squared cut and a sometimes military style. Dries Van Noten’s latest collection includes pants with crease, shorts and bermudas, long trenchcoats, combined shirts and ties, everything appearently very strict and with a vintage gusto. The collection is complited by some looks, featuring geometric and floral prints on which appear delicate embroideries and discreet sequin recalling the patterns themselves. La purezza delle forme, la vasta proposta di delicati ed eleganti colori e alcune stampe che si incrociano su silhouette composte da capispalla ampi, dal taglio squadrato di ispirazione militare è il nuovo mood di stagione. La collezione Dries Van Noten comprende…

Sport de Luxe Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski tells us about iconic, ageless pieces, being part of Hermes DNA, constructed with valued, exquisite, rare materials expressing the house’s luxury and savoir-faire. Amongst the classics we find the crocodile jacket and plenty of garments made in leather and suede, from a traditional trouser or a jogging, an over shirt to which a hood has been added and lots of outerwear. Nearly all the models on the catwalk are reproposed in a very light nylon, the contrasting topstitch is one of the recurring ideas in this collection and marquetries create geometric plays. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski ci parla di pezzi iconici, senza tempo, facenti parte del DNA di Hermès, costruiti con materiali ricercati, pregiati, rari che esprimono il lusso e il savoir-faire della maison. Nei classici c’è…

Urban Climbers Workwear and classic suit, Lucas Ossjendrijver for Maison Lanvin mixes, deconstructs and merges, with taste and elegance, different masculine attire styles. Dynamic and functional, this wardrobe is a dialogue in a perfect balance between technology and tradition. Peruvian style details and passementerie are discreet. Among the prints, flaming dragons on jackets and portraits of tourists visiting Montmartre on shirts and T-shirts worked slope. Suits, overalls and windbreakers, nylon, cotton and silk, lightness and transparency, belts, zips, laces and huge sacks and a mechanic’s carry-all. Tenuta da lavoro e abito classico: Lucas Ossjendrijver per la maison Lanvin mischia, decostruisce e fonde con gusto ed eleganza diversi stili d’abbigliamento maschile. Dinamico e funzionale, questo guardaroba è un dialogo in perfetto equilibrio tra tecnologia e tradizione. Discreti i dettagli e le…

Unexpected Beauty Rick Owens explores new ways to dress the man, a new male corporeality covered in cuts, transparencies, overlaps. On top, multiple tank tops covered with holes, other on which cuts and inlay work have been added, in different textiles and colours developing new dimensions, on bottom a trouser with more than loose a leg which waistline has been heightened as if it were a corset. Long double-breasted blazers, with or without sleeves, micro jackets and mega cross body bags, the belt is a new sack, let drop and stop to the knee, all in the range of greys, greens, beiges and black. Rick Owens esplora nuovi modi di vestire l’uomo, immaginando una nuova visione del corpo maschile fatta di tagli, trasparenze, sovrapposizioni. Sopra, canottiere sovrapposte effetto lacerato, altre…

Sport Couture Valentino’s man finds in this collection the development of a new project, a new silhouette which doesn’t acknowledge the suit anymore, nor the blazer, as its wardrobe’s basics. Even the camouflage print is forgotten, substitued by a Latin America ethnic mood. A new æsthetic expression is born, with an obsessive attention to details , seamings, accessories , sneakers, a total look where the sign VLTN is added, a logo which is then brushed up on from archives and becomes today a part of this new masculinity, a mix between the sportswear culture and the maison’s sartorial know-how. L’uomo Valentino trova in questa collezione lo sviluppo di un nuovo progetto, di una nuova silhouette che non riconosce più l’abito e la giacca come pezzi basilari del guardaroba. Dimenticata anche…

As a reaction to the sense of alienation created by the digital information culture, where the number of ‘like’ on social media becomes increasingly important, the collection borrows heavily from sportswear and from street culture. An intriguing palette of sapphire, tangerine, different tones of pale pink alongside white, gunmetal, black for light fabrics such as tailoring cottons, crisp wools, shirting voiles, jacquards with embroidered and printed botanical, mini houndstooth patterns. In reazione al senso di alienazione creato dalla cultura dell’informazione digitale, in cui il numero di “like” sui social media assume valenze sempre più importanti, la collezione prende in prestito numerosissimi elementi dallo sportswear e dalle street culture. Una tavolozza intrigante di zaffiro, mandarino, tonalità diverse di rosa pallido assieme a bianco, grigio canna di fucile e nero per tessuti…

I must admit that as far as I’m concerned, after so many years of working so intensely within the “fantastic fashion circus”, sitting at a fashion show and watching a presentation and being impressed is becoming increasingly more difficult. Of course, there are so many redundant coup de théâtre and spectacular shows but, usually, the only aim of these theatrical efforts is to disguise the fact that the collections are not interesting or too commercial. What I’m talking about is being impressed with creativity and by clothes that tell a story and that, more than anything, are fascinating and exciting and can still make anyone dream. This new season, Milan, Paris and London witnessed a new rebirth by offering exciting collections that have in turn been able to emphasise a…

‘Mali Twist’ is an amazing exhibition about an incredible photographer who captured with his movingly beautiful black-and-white the uniqueness and vibrancy of an entire country and most specifically of its young people with their incredible energy. “Music freed us”, Sidibé once said. And it’s indeed easy to see how to the arrival of rock’n roll, the twist and other forms of modern music from the United States, Europe and Cuba, together with cutting-edge fashion and the political independence achieved from France in 1960, did indeed free a whole country. A country that was soon expressing its exuberant joie de vivre and vitality through dancing and through the most amazing fashion outfits imported or/and inspired by the Western World. All that was magisterially photographed by Malick Sidibé. There is often talk…

With the collaboration of Giorgio Ammirabile and Barbara Tassara Model Calle Hansson@Independent Model Grooming Rosy Campisi@Rock&Rose Florence Digital effects Federica Scarcella…

Contemporary Travellers Designed by the creative director Bart de Backer, the fashion-forward collection by the German fashion giant features soft volumes reworked in a pop art key with symbolic ritual quotes as if the garments were canvases. The world of sports contaminates details and materials, reduces or exacerbates the proportions of the silhouettes. Unisex relaxed trousers and paint-splattered sneakers. La collezione di avanguardia del colosso moda tedesco, disegnata per la parte uomo dal responsabile creativo Bart de Backer, propone volumi morbidi rielaborati in chiave artistica pop art, con citazioni simboliche rituali, come se i capi fungessero da vere e proprie tele. Il mondo sportivo contamina dettagli e materiali, riduce oppure esagera le proporzioni della silhouette. Pantaloni rilassati e sneaker chiazzate di vernice sono stati ideati per essere unisex.…

Techno Formality Fashion and streetwear, two worlds that dialogue in the world of Virgil Abloh, sometimes in an unexpected way, sometimes even in a direct and impudent manner. Of Ghanaian descent, the designer who is an architect and engineer grew up in the United States. He creates collections that are cultural and social slogans in grey, white and black, expressions of a contemporary aesthetic vision that embraces technology and sport/chic functionality. Fashion e streetwear, due mondi che dialogano per Virgil Abloh, talora in maniera spiazzante, a volte anche diretta e impudente. Architetto e ingegnere, cresciuto negli Stati Uniti, figlio di immigrati ghanesi, crea collezioni che sono anche slogan culturali e sociali, zone grigie, bianche o nere, espressioni di una visione estetica contemporanea, che abbraccia tecnologia e funzionalità sport-chic.…

The 1950’s with a Sporty Swing Jazz references and elements derived from 1950’s mixed with the spontaneity of youth in free compositions and references to the past. Sandro Homme creates a wardrobe of suede zipped jackets, houndstooth ankle-length summer trousers, mesh T-Shirts, tropical print bowling shirts, wide cut jeans, Beat Generation shoes. Riferimenti jazz ed eleganza degli anni ‘50 mescolati alla spontaneità della gioventù in composizioni libere e riferimenti al passato. Sandro Homme mette in guardaroba giacche con zip in suede, pantaloni estivi pied-de-poule tagliati alla caviglia, T-shirt in rete, camicie da bowling a stampa tropicale, jeans taglio largo e scarpe Beat Generation.…

My name is Bond International jet setters with an every day calendar full of commitments of all kinds wear cross-category versatile and easily matchable deluxe pieces, perfect for Saint Tropez, St Barts, Belize, Jamaica. Bomber jackets, blousons made of the best quality leathers like snake and crocodile are worn with tailored shorts or trousers and roll neck tops. Eveningwear lights up with black sequinned or with a golden lion print jackets. The loungewear offer includes chic robes and embroidered velvet slippers. Jet setter internazionale con una vita quotidiana ricca di impegni veste capi versatili extra lusso abbinabili fra loro, trasversali sulle spiagge di Saint Tropez, St Barts, Belize e Jamaica. Bomber e giacche in pellami pregiati, serpente e coccodrillo, portati con bermuda o pantaloni su misura e maglie a collo…

90’s Mood Lee Wood presents a functional pragmatic wardrobe comprising of parkas, blousons, athletic trousers, graphic sports uniforms with techniques and armours inspired by rugby. The colour palette of white, ivory, sand, camel, pearl grey and flashes of blue and green makes the look very sophisticated. On the feet, selfassured ultra-comfortable boots and sandals. Lee Wood presenta un guardaroba funzionale e pragmatico, con parka, blouson, pantaloni atletici, divise sportive grafiche, tecniche e armaturate, ispirate al gioco del rugby. La tavolozza dei colori le rende sofisticate, bianco, avorio, sabbia, cammello, grigio perla e lampi di azzurro e verde. Il passo incede sicuro e svetta con stivali e sandali ultra comodi.…

Eclectic Formal A catwalk show comprising of impeccably stylish outfits with a cosmopolitan flavour that leaves nothing to chance. Behind each combination, a thought process aimed to achieving perfection and distinctiveness for any occasion, always with that deluxe touch that is part of the DNA of the Maison. Overcoats, blousons, parkas inspired by sportswear and especially by baseball are worn with cotton shirts and tie, classic silhouettes trouser or tailored shorts and braces. Una sfilata di insiemi impeccabili, stilosi, di gusto internazionale, che non lasciano nulla al caso. Ogni abbinamento è pensato per essere perfetto e speciale, in ogni occasione lo si indossi, con quel tocco di lusso che è nel DNA della Maison. Soprabiti, blouson, parka, ispirati dallo sportswear e dal gioco del baseball in primo piano, si portano…

Summer College Style Thom Browne too emphasises the subtle transition between seasons as well as applying tailoring to activewear and sportswear uniforms. Total looks, padded garments, lighter options in colour combinations of grey and white and red, or white and blue and black. High tech details are enriched with embroideries, inlays and couture finishes on waterproof fabrics, on cashmere, on technical wools, on nylon, on 100% natural knits. Anche Thom Browne sottolinea la transizione sottile fra le stagioni, così come applica la sartoria alle divise active e sportive. Total look e capi imbottiti ed equivalenti più leggeri, in macro gruppi di cromie grigio e bianco, rosso, bianco e blu e nero. Ai dettami tecnici sono applicati ricami, intarsi e finiture couture, in versione su tessuto impermeabile, su cashmere o lana…

Urban Design A revision and an evolution of the brand DNA from the past translated for the future. But the present is also part of a temporal trilogy that is minimalistic and streamlined, almost purist. Neatly tailored sporty/military and urban uniforms alongside casualwear pieces like bomber jackets, jeans, T-shirts. In any case, easy, cross-category, soft and tactile, and yet at the same time raw and industrial, pieces for rigorous, yet light and airy, outfits. Rielaborazione ed evoluzione del DNA passato tradotto per il futuro: il presenta fa parte di una trilogia temporale minimalista ed essenziale, quasi purista della vita, pensata per uniformi, sportive-militari e urbane, di chiaro taglio sartoriale, viceversa casual con bomber, jeans e T-shirt. Sempre con pezzi facili e trasversali, morbidi e tattili, e al contempo crudi e…

Dynamic Tailoring Miuccia Prada’s cultural storytelling continues to be framed in cartoons and illustrations. A contemporary flavour that speaks of urban transversality and of the world of sports with less clearly defined and definable seasons and with sartorial constructions tailored to functionality. Technical outerwear therefore fits like an overcoat and is worn over zip jackets or cardigans. Workwear jumpsuits, square short shirts and jumpers are worn with straight trousers, lace-ups, running shoes, shoulder bags and bumbags. Lo storytelling culturale di Miuccia Prada prosegue incorniciato nell’arte del fumetto e del disegno. Il gusto contemporaneo parla di trasversalità urbana e mondo sportivo, stagioni meno nette e definibili, costruzione sartoriale adattata alla funzionalità. Il capospalla tecnico veste come un soprabito su giacche zippate alternate ai cardigan; spuntano tute da lavoro, camicie e pull…

STYLE IN LEASUREWEAR The versatile wardrobe created by Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, comprises of archetypes of a man’s wardrobe in between the busy reality of city life and the relaxed mood of summer vacations. Functional stylish pieces like long lines trench coats, lightweight dressing gowns bomber jackets and tank tops, tight sweatshirts, comfortable couture shirts and suit high waist trousers that can be layers for a relaxed and cool look. Il guardaroba versatile ideato da Jonny Johansson, direttore creativo di Acne Studios, propone gli archetipi del vestire maschile nel cambiamento fra la frenetica vita cittadina e lo stato mentale rilassato della vacanza estiva. Pezzi funzionali e stilosi, dal trench lungo in lino, la vestaglia leggera, bomber a canotte, felpe aderenti, camicie e abiti couture confortevoli, pantaloni a…

TONES AND GRAPHICS Summer tones and graphics to enjoy the new men’s wardrobe with joy and happiness. Informal but well-attired looks, with vintage references and cross-pollutions between sportswear and classic fashion. The Black Collection focuses on military and camouflage, while the Gold and Silver collections have sports influences. There are also layered looks, proposals, allover prints, collages created by the juxtaposition of the Antony Morato shop layout maps. Toni e grafiche estive, per vivere con gioia il nuovo guardaroba maschile. Look informali ma curati, con riferimenti vintage, contaminazioni fra sport e moda classica. Black Collection in chiave militare e camouflage, mentre le altre due collezioni, Gold e Silver, hanno influenze sportive. Non mancano proposte stratificate, stampati all over, collage creati dalla giustapposizione delle piantine dei negozi Antony Morato. www.antonymorato.it…

KALEIDOSCOPIC MANTRA Indian Summer: a kaleidoscope of prints and mystical symbols, animals and sacred gods. The pilgrimages to India and to the Himalayas, popular since the 1970’s, inspired the vibrant craftsmanship synonymous with Etro and created new variations of the paisley pattern through meticulous workmanship and with collages. Estate indiana, caleodoscopio di stampe e simboli mistici, animali e divinità sacre. I pellegrinaggi verso India e Himalaya, popolari proprio dagli anni Settanta, ispirano l’artigianato vibrante di Etro, declinano nuove variazioni del motivo ‘Paisley’ con meticolose lavorazioni e collage. www.etro.it…

THE LIGHTNESS OF LUXURY The colourful capsule collection dedicated to surfing introduces the holiday theme even when still in the workplace and in an urban setting. Tod’s offers a casual elegance, unencumbered by the superfluous, always with a deluxe DNA through functional outerwear pieces that become part of the story of each wearer as they gradually adapt to his body, holiday after holiday. Colorata capsule collection dedicate al surf per introdurre il tema del viaggio anche in ambito lavorativo e cittadino. Tod’s firma la sua eleganza informale, alleggerita del superfluo ma non del DNA lussuoso, con capispalla funzionali e di memoria, perché prendono le sembianze di chi li indossa, viaggio dopo viaggio. www.tods.com…

SAILING ACTIVEWEAR The open seas and vintage regattas are the themes of a collection with high performance fabrics perfect for both a sailing race and a metropolitan landscape. Sporty graphics, technical fabrics including hi-tech merino in strong tones of navy blue, white, grey, black brightened up by flashes of yellow and orange. Maritime sneakers, deck shoes, kit bags, weekend bags, backpacks and caps. Mare aperto e regate d’epoca, temi di una collezione con tessuti altamente performanti da indossare sia in barca che in città. Grafiche sportive, tessuti speciali come techno merino, colori pertinenti, blu navy, bianco, grigio e nero, accesi da lampi giallo e arancio. Sneaker e gommate da vela, sacche e borsoni, zaini e berretti marine. www.zegna.com…

Tropical 3.0 A 100% Parisian collection, between elegant and nonchalant, Alexandre Mattiussi’s collection plays with resolute colours, stripes and flowers, in a urban style, a bit nostalgic, a mix of 60’s and 80’s, the caricature of a young American on holidays in the Ville Lumière. The silhouette’s ampler and more comfortable, simple, made in technical materials with graphic details. A formal wardrobe with the traditional dressing codes mixing Prince of Wales blazer, checkered trousers, zipped hoodie, denim total look with leather and vinyl garments worn with long socks and laced shoes. Una collezione 100% “parisien”, tra l’elegante e il disinvolto l’uomo Alexandre Mattiussi gioca con colori decisi, righe e fiori, in uno stile urbano un po’ nostalgico, un misto tra gli anni ’60 e ’80, caricatura di un giovane turista…

Paris-Texas From the maison’s classic biker pants basis, the Balmain’s collection develops in an aggressive wardrobe, burdened in details and contrasts. A lot of embroideries, “jais and baguettes” sequins, studs and chains, fringes, marquetry and twines, a metal mesh and the jacket alternates to a smoking blazer. Ethnic touches, geometric patterns, many stripes and tye-dye follow one other on the catwalk, mostly on black and white. Backpacks, rucksacks and boots feature details got from the apparel, a rock-urban warrior adventurous total look. Dalla base del classico pantalone biker della maison, la collezione Balmain si sviluppa in un guardaroba aggressivo, carico di dettagli e di contrasti. Abbondano i ricami, applicazioni di jais e baguette di paillettes, le borchie e le catene, le frange, gli intarsi e gli intrecci, appare la maglia…

Eclectic Tailoring A mix between a night in disco and an artwork to wear, Rei Kawakubo shines with her jacket, exactly constructed and worn inside-out. Cuts, inlay works, patchwork, plays of fabrics and plenty of colour. Animal and floral patterns, fake fur, and glitter prints, sequin, coloured stones and crochet are the ingredients for this surreal wardrobe to which even textile artist Mona Luison collaborated with her dolls and sketches used on some T-shirts. Pants and bermudas are oversize, feet wear multicoloured laced sneakers. Tra serata in discoteca e opera da indossare, Rei Kawakubo eccelle con la giacca che è esattamente costruita o portata alla rovescia. Tagli, intarsi, patchwork, giochi di tessuti e tanto colore. Stampa animalier, motivi floreali, finta pelliccia, glitter, paillette, pietre colorate e merletti sono gli ingredienti…

Celebrating Contemporary Elegance Geoffrey B. Small’s ‘100’ celebrated the designer’s 100th collection presented to date in Paris since 1993, more than any other American designer, with a beautiful, festive and inspiring event introducing his most advanced extreme handmade artistic works for men from his world-renowned via Spalato workrooms at Cavarzere in Venezia, combined with the newest super luxury materials from long-running collaborations with Italy’s greatest fabric and component makers like Fratelli Piacenza 1733, Luigi Parisotto, Tessitura La Colombina and Fontana - enhanced with an exquisite live-violin performance by Isabelle Madeleine de Miollis and live-dance interpretation by Matilde Canuti - altogether emphasising the firm’s ongoing commitment to human performance, artistic excellence, and the power of individual expression. Con la collezione ‘100, Geoffrey B. Small celebra la 100esima collezione presentata a Parigi…

Relaxed Elegance For the summer 2018 Yusuke Takahashi, the brand’s art director, reelaborates the houses’s codes and materials from the 70’s. Double face cotton makes the garments soft and comfortable while pleated, with its corrugate look, recalls dunes and freedom in movements and, as a completion, even more technical materials like polyester and nylon. Colors belong to a desert landscape, but orange and a vivid blue are added, figuring a sunset. The silhouette’s large with sarouel pants, cachecoeur and elastic stripped knitworks. Prints are graphic and a diagonal stripe is handcraft by artisans using traditional techniques. Per l’estate 2018, Yusuke Takahashi, direttore artistico del marchio, rielabora i codici e materiali dalla maison degli anni ’70. Il cotone double face rende i capi morbidi e confortevoli mentre il plissé, con il…

Urban Explorers Kim Jones dubs Louis Vuitton’s new collection “Arcipelago”, an escape through the Pacific Ocean islands. A wardrobe with a conqueror soul, dynamic, casual and sporty. The silhouette’s made of overlappings, garments are made in technical materials, like a surfer’s suit, or transparent organza short-sleeved shirts, t-shirts, comfortable sweaters, light nylon jackets, parkas and raincoats. The trousers, long and short, are wide and high waisted, feet wear sockets and slippers. Prints are inspired by floral and animal nature, leather is extremely thin. As for accessories, large bags, shoulder bags and purse. Kim Jones denomina la nuova collezione Louis Vuitton “Arcipelago”, un’evasione tra le isole del Pacifico. Un guardaroba dall’anima di un conquistatore, dinamico, casual e sportivo. La silhouette è fatta di sovrapposizioni, capi realizzati in materiali tecnici, come una…

Unconventional Style Rich in details, materials and in colours combinations, this wardrobe keeps Sacai’s man image, a urban-casual young one, elegant and free. A new proposition of a three pieces suit, a breach about uniforms created by associating different dressing codes to obtain hybrid garments with new stories to tell. Between street and fashion, garments like the bomber jacket are more refined, silken linings and paddings appear, velvets and parachute cloth, terry cloth, hearts printed on tartan fabrics or like embroideries on the mesh. In addition to the collection the ambiguous text “Stasis as to Vector All in Due Course”, by artist Lawrence Weiner. Ricco di dettagli, di materiali e combinazione di colori, questo guardaroba conserva l’immagine dell’uomo Sacai, urbano-casual, un giovane elegante e libero. Una nuova proposta di vestito…

(De)Constructed Tailoring According to Walter Van Beirendonck every collection is an occasion to tell a new story, a new wardrobe, a new message. And while “Own whisper” is this season’s one, on the catwalk walk silhouettes dressed dressed in sartorial tartan suits and jackets devoured by caricatural faces. Satin fabrics are used in bomber jackets and deconstructed overalls, printed technical materials for leggings and zipped jackets, silken jacquard recalling slogans and characters used even on hoodies and metallic weft, silver and pink, are presented K.way, pants, dungarees and bermudas. Per Walter Van Beirendonck ogni collezione è l’occasione per raccontare una nuova storia, un nuovo guardaroba, un nuovo messaggio. “Owls whisper” è quello di questa stagione e in passerella sfilano silhouette con abiti sartoriali in scozzese e giacche divorate da facce…

The focus of the unashamedly fashion-forward collection is capturing the mood of perfume adverts from the 1990’s and then filtering it through into the contemporary world. The result is a series of striking outfits with bold macro floral prints as well as with photos that the designer took of some items from his previous collections digitally printed on silk, canvas, light cotton. Magenta, orange, acid canary and sunshine yellow brighten up a dark palette of charcoal, mushroom, indigo, mid blue. L’obiettivo è impadronirsi del mood delle pubblicità di profumi degli anni 90 per poi filtrarlo nel mondo contemporaneo. Il risultato è una serie di look spettacolari e decisamente di tendenza con stampe floreali macro e con foto di alcuni capi di collezioni precedenti digitalmente stampate su seta, tela, cotone leggero.…

When looking at the lightness of some of the fabrics used in the latest Christopher Raeburn collection, it is easy to understand why it was named after ‘Æolus’, the keeper of the winds in ancient Greek mythology. Another key feature is the stunning use of geometric shapes to create striking high impact visual effects. I also loved the tightly edited palette of grey, orange, sand, khaki, black and white and the prints depicting a jerboa, the desert rodent chosen as this season mascotte. La leggerezza di alcuni dei tessuti utilizzati nell’ultima collezione di Christopher Raeburn suggerisce le ragioni per cui il titolo della collezione è “Eolo”, dio dei venti nella mitologia greca. Un’altra caratteristica fondamentale è l’incredibile utilizzo di forme geometriche per creare effetti visivi di forte impatto, anche la…

The starting point is the quest for “a new paradise, and how that paradise may be perceived by different individuals”. The result is a unashamedly avant-garde collection with very bold macro graphics for long fringed ponchos whose tubular texture is made possible by a new quilting techniques. With tops with knotted components, low-waisted wide-legged trousers, truly original outerwear. It is not a surprise that Craig Green was chosen as British Menswear Designer of the Year in 2016. Il punto di partenza è la ricerca di “un nuovo paradiso e l’analisi di come tale paradiso possa essere percepito in modo diverso a seconda della persona” spiega Craig Green, British Menswear Designer of the Year nel 2016. Il risultato è una collezione d’avanguardia con grafiche macro per lunghi poncho frangiati la cui…

A new definition of pomp and circumstance is all I could think of while watching the amazing Spring/Summer 2018 show by Edward Crutchley. I was mesmerised by the richness of the materials, partly a homage to British textile tradition as in the case of the Elizabethan blackwork embroidery and the Victorian flower and monkey motifs, partly a reference to the plaited raffia by the Dayak tribe in Kalimantan and to the Edo period in Japan. Unusual colours including eggshell, peat, cameo, celadon, eau de nil, flesh. Una nuova sontuosità. Alla preziosità dei tagli e della costruzione dei capi corrisponde la straordinaria preziosità dei materiali, in parte omaggio alla tradizione tessile britannica come nel caso del ricamo in nero elisabettiano e delle fantasie floreali con scimmie del periodo vittoriano, in parte…

“Shape and colour are my two strong things”. The press release by the Savile Row tailor borrows a quote from the American artist Ellsworth Kelly to describe a Spring/Summer 2018 collection focused on easy to wear, light, soft pieces. A serene and calm mood that is reflected in the choice of colours such as ivory, aqua, dusty pink, pistachio alongside fuchsia, coffee, green, navy. In the choice of fabrics such as fine ribbed cotton Ottoman, featherweight wool gabardine, cotton boucle, and wool/silk/linen blends. “Forma e colore sono i miei due punti forza”. Il comunicato stampa del sarto di Savile Row prende in prestito una citazione dell’artista americano Ellsworth Kelly per descrivere una collezione focalizzata su capi leggeri, morbidi, facili da indossare e infusa di serenità e calma. Come appare evidente…

Orange, one of the key colours of the Spring/Summer 2018 season, matched with black, pale grey, white, an almost transparent pale blue and a touch of sage green. Soft relaxed tailored pieces with uneven edges, wide legged trousers, boxy tops. Strong sportswear influences and focus on straps and zips as functional and decorative elements. Games of layering, an overall sense of understated cool with the right amount of urban edge. An interpretation of fashion that transcends genders, categorisations and seasons. Arancione, uno dei colori chiave della primavera/estate 2018, abbinato a nero, grigio pallido, bianco, un azzurro pallido quasi trasparente, un tocco di verde salvia. Capi morbidi e rilassati con orli irregolari, pantaloni a gamba larga, top squadrati. Molti accenni allo sportswear e molta attenzione a cinghie e cerniere come elementi…

Hollywood parterre at the Moschino fashion show event in Los Angeles led by the creative director Jeremy Scott. On the catwalk are the Spring-Summer Resorts 2018 collections, men and women, with items dedicated to american Pop culture and a special capsule celebrating SpongeBob cartoon. The fashion journey starts from a brazen and glamorous Las Vegas, Hollywood costumes, pin ups and beach boys, to ride the Coast to Coast in bikers and cowboy styles mood. The wardrobe includes jeans, cowboys shirts and boots, motorcycle and leather jackets, suits with painted flames. Jeremy Scott explained: “It was really fun to play with so different elements of American culture and in a totally new way. On one side, I wanted to decorate its essential part and on the other one I wanted to…

Neo Pop Youth High sartorial manufacturing and a leisure mood in a mix dedicated to youth cultures, thinking of the future changes in men’s fashion. The fashion show at Pitti Uomo 92 was a re-elaboration of materials and volumes with maritime and romantic prints for transversal garments, easily matchable but equally capable of stand out on their own for expressiveness and individuality. The Northern Irish designer is one of the stars of the London fashion scene whose business is now partly owned by LVMH. Alta manifattura sartoriale e ‘leisure mood’, in un mix dedicato alle culture giovanili pensando al cambiamento della moda maschile del futuro. Il designer nord irlandese è uno dei più seguiti a Londra ed il suo marchio è stato acquisito per una parte dal gruppo LVMH. Nella…

Luxury Loungewear Lightness and softness dictate the choice of seasonal, natural, stretchy fabrics, sometimes with camouflage patterns, for the sunny collection by Eleventy. The loose silhouettes follow the body, covering it with impalpable weight. Suede outerwear, suits, linen jackets, jerseys, joggers, cotton tailored shorts and for the first time pyjamas and boxer shorts. Leggerezza e morbidezza declinano la scelta di tessuti di stagione, naturali o elasticizzati, camouflage, per comporre la collezione soleggiata di Eleventy. Linee sciolte seguono il corpo, lo coprono con pesi impalpabili siano capispalla di suede, abiti, giacche di lino, maglie o pantaloni jogger e bermuda in cotone. Prima capsule di pigiami e boxer.…

Prints Variations Patterns, prints and embroideries: the artistic variations by Miguel Vieira create sporty and formal solutions and decorate slim-fit or wider volumes and silhouettes. Thermo-collage, crispy effects, intarsia, structured decorative details, both black & white or multicoloured on jeans, blazers, oversize T-shirts, tailored shorts, trousers, tops, scarves, sneakers and slippers. Fantasie, stampe e ricami, le variazioni artistiche di Miguel Vieira studiano applicazioni sportive e formali e decorano giochi di volumi asciutti e amplificati. Tecnica del thermocollage, effetti ‘croccanti’, intarsi e decori strutturati, bianco e nero e colorati. Su jeans, blazer, T-shirt oversize, bermuda e pantaloni, top, sciarpe, sneakers e slippers.…

Urban Fighters Multicultural metropolitan tribes travel different latitudes wearing layers of functional garments that are suitable for any country. A Summer/Spring with tropical colours and patterns elaborated by Marcelo Burlon in a dark iconographic key. The capsule collection dedicated to Mickey Mouse underscores through colour blocking the solar attitude of a collection filled with pop geometries. Urban nightlife uniforms and boxy garments remain the strong points of the brand. Tribù metropolitane multiculturali viaggiano varie latitudini con capi stratificati e funzionali, adatti sotto ogni bandiera. L’estate propone colori e tropici, elaborati da Marcelo Burlon in chiave dark iconografica. Una capsule dedicata a Mickey Mouse sottolinea il carattere solare, a blocchi grafici, di questa collezione piena di geometrie pop. Uniformi urbane nottambule e pezzi boxy restano un punto fermo del marchio.…

Japanese Vibes In a fascinating dialogue between Far Eastern and Western cultures, the on-trend fashion by Emporio Armani looks to Japan and to the noble samurai. Sophisticated high performance clothes, kimono-inspired jackets, tunic-shaped overcoats, comfortable trousers with high waisted belt. A sophisticated minimalism with artistic motifs and decorative details in a harmonious game of alternating volumes and materials such as linen, rope, cotton, nappa leather, shantung, silk and straw. In un dialogo affascinante fra cultura orientale e occidentale, la moda di tendenza di Emporio Armani guarda al Giappone, ai nobili samurai, dagli abiti raffinati e performanti. Giacche kimono, soprabiti a casacca, pantaloni comodi con cintura alta in vita. Minimalismo sofisticato con disegni e decori artistici in un gioco armonico di alternanza di volumi e materie, come lino, corda, cotone, nappa,…

Contemporary Dandy Made in Armani. A proud, faithful, appreciated, solid, authentic coherence in terms of wardrobe choices, company, business, personality and lifestyle. As well as in terms of colours, with the choice of refined tones of blue and sand and infinite gradations of grey. In terms of comfortable deluxe fabrics and textures. In terms of volumes and shapes that luckily can be worn by a masculine man. In terms of a relaxed elegance with a particular emphasis on knitwear. A Made in Armani always on the catwalks, not just for a brief moment, because it is most definitely not a passing fad. ‘Made in Armani’, in una coerenza fedele e orgogliosa di guardaroba, azienda, personalità e lifestyle, riconoscibili ed apprezzati, solidi, autentici. Nei colori primari, la scelta dei raffinati blu…

Techno Holidays A gravitational pull towards the West Coast with seasonal symbols and themes such as floral and palm trees motifs, new camouflage variants, Americana plaid, slogans and letterings often coordinated with the logo. A modern holiday wardrobe inspired by carefree activities like bowling and billiards and enriched with zips, edgings, decorative and technical details for both apparel and accessories. Attrazione per la West Coast, con simbologie e temi di stagione, fantasie di fiori e palme, reinterpretazioni camouflage, check americani, slogan e lettering dipinti e spesso in coordinata con il logo stampato. Il guardaroba è vacanziero e tecnico, moderno, ispirato al gusto goliardico del gioco del bowling e del biliardo. Arricchito con zip e bordature, decori e dettagli tecnici, sia per i capi d’abbigliamento che negli accessori.…

Grease Glamor, speed, adrenaline, motors, hair gels: gangs of youths walk the catwalk just like in the ‘Grease’ movie. A flamboyant rock’n roll attitude decorates T-shirts, bomber jackets, jeans, jumpsuits, biker jackets, gym shoes with tattoo iconography that includes tigers, snakes, stars but also sequins. For men who drive powerful cars, who play billiards or go bowling, always with a great amount of energy and irreverence. Glamour, velocità, adrenalina, motori, le gang giovani sfilano in chiave film ‘Grease’ e brillantina. Un’attitudine rock’n’roll fiammeggiante decora T-shirt e bomber, jeans e tute, giacche biker e scarpe ginniche, con aggiunta di icone-tattoo come tigri e serpenti, stelle e paillettes. Alla guida di super car potenti, in sala biliardo o bowling, sempre con tanta energia e irriverenza.…

French Riviera Lightness and elegance in maritime and riviera style, crafted by Guillaume Milland in between formalwear and casualwear with de-structured fluid garments both for businesswear and leisurewear. Prints and decorative details evoke corals and seahorses, cheerful expressions on polos and cardigans, jackets and shorts, suits and multi-colour outerwear. Corduroy, terry towelling, jersey, fretwork, rubberised leather for a deluxe urbanwear. Leggerezza ed eleganza in stile marine e riviera, elaborate da Guillaume Milland tra il mood formale e casual, con capi destrutturati e fluidi, sia nel mondo business che tempo libero. Le stampe e i decori evocano coralli e cavallucci marini, gioiose espressività su polo e cardigan, giacche e shorts, abiti e capi outwear multi-materici. Velluto a costine, spugna, jersey, trafori e pelle gommata per un urbanwear di lusso.…

ETHNIC AND EXOTIC LANDS Traveling to sunny exotic destinations with a relaxed sporty attitude garments in playful contrast with more formal pieces. The aesthetic mood of Andrea Pompilio creates versatile garments with references to the preppy, maritime and 1970’s style codes, only apparently casual, but characterised by geometric cuts. In viaggio verso il sole e atmosfere etnico-esotiche con una attitudine rilassata e sportiva in giocoso contrasto con pezzi più formali. La mimesi estetica di Andrea Pompilio genera capi versatili, con divise preppy, marine e Seventies, casual solo in apparenza, dai tagli geometrici e vivaci. www.andreapompilio.it…

VINTAGE ATHLETIC COUTURE The 1980’s for knitwear in all possible variations, for trousers, tailored shorts, joggers, accessorised with multiple belts, always with a very relaxed mood. Reference to vintage tennis, to legendary athletes, to a variety of sport disciplines, to uniforms of style and lifestyle. Bomber jackets, blousons wth multiple pockets and other outwear pieces always characterised by the high quality standards synonymous with Brunello Cucinelli. Anni ‘80 e maglieria, in tutte le declinazioni, capospalla e pantaloni, bermuda, jogger, per un mood rilassante, annodato da molte cinture. Rimandi al tennis vintage, agli atleti leggendari, di svariate discipline, uniformi di stile e di vita. Bomber, giacconi con le tasche e altri pezzi outwear firmati dalla qualità di Brunello Cucinelli. www.brunellicucinelli.com…

OCEAN DRIVE IN MIAMI A look over the American coastline and more precisely over the different beaches in Miami, iconic symbols and iconic images of a very special nightlife and day-life: this is the new creative alphabet for Fausto Puglisi. Latin music, beaches, surfers, crowded clubs and bars set the standards and create ad hoc T-shirts, sweatshirts, shorts, jackets, perfect for any summer “god”. Sguardo sulla costa americana e le spiagge di Miami, simboli e immagini iconiche di vita notturna e diurna divengono l’alfabeto creativo di Fausto Puglisi. Musica latina, spiagge, surfisti, club e locali affollati, dettano legge e compongono ad hoc T-Shirt, felpe, shorts e giubbotti, facilmente componibili, per gli ‘dei’ dell’estate. www.faustopuglisi.com…

RACES AND PARTIES The Ralph Lauren Purple Label collection is an homage to high tailoring. Luxury sportswear and elegant solutions for the evening. A tribute to sports competitions, either tennis, sailing or biking, with athletic silhouettes, graphics, slogans. Impeccable evening suits, even when not of the same material, so well constructed that they look refined yet relaxed. Sportswear di lusso e guardaroba elegante per la sera, la collezione Ralph Lauren Purple Label elogia l’alta sartoria. Omaggio alle gare, siano esse di tennis vela o bici, con silhouette atletiche, grafiche e slogan. Impeccabile l’abito da sera, intero o spezzato, così ben costruito da risultare raffinato e rilassante. www.ralphlauren.com…

A MOTOR RACING MOOD Hilfiger Edition is a tribute to Tommy Hilfiger’s menswear. Inspired by timeless classics reinterpreted in a modern key, the collection runs fast on the racing track and starts up a roaring engine of colours and details. Dedicated to a contemporary lifestyle, characterised by a frenetic rhythm, offering custom-made denim pieces. Hilfiger Edition rende omaggio all’abbigliamento maschile di Tommy Hilfiger ispirato ai classici senza tempo reinterpretati in chiave moderna. I capi della collezione corrono veloci su pista e accendono il motore di colori e dettagli. Dedicandosi allo stile di vita contemporaneo, caratterizzato da ritmi frenetici, e proponendo un denim custom-made. www.tommy.com…

Dark Romance More romantic than ever and bohemian, Ann Demeulemeester discloses herself as unisex. Jersey and knitwear are worked with ultra thin threads creating totally transparent garments, like the muslin shirts. The silhouette is fluid, light, long nightgowns, loose blazers, shirts and trousers, on which always lie small bunches of flowers, spots or dotted concentric non-centred circles. Tye-dye suits, velvet and broderie anglaise. Boots, raincoat, gilet and leather short and, as an adornment, a flower at the neck. Più romantica e bohémien che mai, la collezione di Ann Demeulemeester si svela anche unisex. Jersey e maglieria sono lavorati con fili finissimi creando dei capi completamente trasparenti come le camicie in mussoline. La silhouette è fluida, leggera, lunghe vestaglie, larghe giacche, camicie e pantaloni sui quali poggiano stampe di piccoli grappoli…

Minimal Chic Haider Ackerman creates for Berluti a new elegance and modernity made of new and delicate colours and new, essential, minimal shapes. This wardrobe, partly unisex, includes in itself a new vision with a contemporary gusto. The silhouette’s chic, nonchalant and expresses itself with slightly short pants or longer and downier, smoking style with a contrasting side band, jackets and knitworks feature slightly squared volumes, outerwear and raincoats are unlined. The leather, very thin, is ubiquitous, slipper or laced shoes are worn, and alligator briefcase. Haider Ackermann per Berluti crea una nuova eleganza e modernità fatta di nuovi e delicati colori e nuove forme, essenziali, minimali. Questo guardaroba, in parte unisex, racchiude in sé una nuova visione di gusto contemporaneo. La silhouette è chic, disinvolta e si esprime con…

Atelier Sport At Dior Homme’s they say yes to the blazer, but only if it is re-interpreted and the logo mania being hitting the women’s line for some seasons already arrives here as well, with the sign “Christian Dior Atelier” invading edges, passementerie, prints, cockades, ribbons, even becoming a blazon. The American colleges trend merges with the classic metropolitan sartorial style, both visions in an only man, the young, new generation, wearing a backpack and sneakers together with a suit. Tradition and modernism, the atelier and the street play together along with urban landscapes by painter François Bard. Da Dior Homme si dice si alla giacca ma solo se è reinterpretata e la logomania che influenza già da qualche stagione la linea donna arriva anche qui con la scritta “Christian…

Sophisticated Design For next Spring/Summer, the Haider Ackermann rock soul softens a bit leaving space to a more sophisticated and less “bad boy” look. The key brand style codes although remain in place in a collection that dresses men with extreme contemporary elegance and a strong identity. Graphic patterns, stripes and polka dots draw nonchalantly soft silhouettes. The colour choice alternates black and white to a palette of intriguing tones ranging from forest shades to summery sky blue and lilac. Per la prossima stagione estiva l’anima rock di Ackermann si ammorbidisce lasciando spazio ad un trend più sofisticato e meno ‘cattivo’. Rimangono comunque i codici di stile chiave di questa collezione che veste un uomo estremamente carico di eleganza contemporanea e dalla forte identità. Grafismi, righe e pois disegnano silhouette…

Playing with 80’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon present for Kenzo a man with a young spirit. An apparently classic wardrobe yet exuberant in colours as well as in shapes and details. Shirts feature tiny or Korean collars, blazers have three pockets, one upon the other, voluminous puffball sleeves, and a chain that from the hip clasps under the revers. High waisted trousers with a coordinate belt have large wrinkles and are sometimes worn into soft ankle boots. Plenty of stripes, cashmere and micro patterns, and maxi 50’s style flowers and, on knitwear and jackets, slogans and logo. Carol Lim e Humberto Leon per Kenzo presentano un uomo dallo spirito giovane. Un guardaroba apparentemente classico, ma esuberante nei colori come nelle forme e nei dettagli. Le camicie hanno piccoli colli…

Colorful Landscapes Paul Smith uses romantic landscapes, marine backgrounds an floral compositions to announce summer and give a breath of colour to this wardrobe mostly made of suits. The collection baptized “Ocean” opens up a summer thrill to the metropolitan everyday life, the silhouette’s elegant and nonchalant with a hint of vintage 70’s humor, just like Sir Paul can do. Some blazers feature embroidered revers, neckties are coordinated with the shirts’ prints, from the belt hangs a wallet, big canvas or leather sacks and feet wear technical sneakers or espadrille. Paul Smith utilizza paesaggi romantici, sfondi marini e composizioni floreali per annunciare l’estate e dare un soffio di colore a questo guardaroba composto prevalentemente da abiti. La collezione battezzata “Oceano” infonde un’ebrezza estiva alla quotidianità metropolitana, la silhouette è elegante…

Bon Ton Style Thom Browne remains the undisputed king of the decoding of men’s suit. For this latest show by him he disclosed to us a new “stride” for a true Oxford gentleman’s wearing laced 4 inches heeled shoes and black socket with three coloured stripes. Sturdiness, elegance and nonchalance, everything on the catwalk has a double personality, from the skinny suits to the maxi tube or pleated skirts, different size shirts, even down to the ankle, long gilet and double breasted blazers and simple tunics. Grey and stripes are rigorous as well as the taste for provocation and the three coloured passementerie, all emblematic of the brand. Thom Browne resta il re indiscusso della decodificazione dell’abito maschile. Per questa sua ultima sfilata ci svela una nuova “andatura” da vero…

Dark Poetry Starting with the assumption that a man only needs a shirt, a jacket and a pair of trousers, Yohji Yamamoto develops a simple and linear collection, fascinatingly laden with poetry, also thanks to the allover dreamlike prints by the artist Suzume Uchida. Soft elegant volumes build new jackets and new overcoats that, as per usual, become blank canvases for slogans, quotes, nostalgic images. This season the collection reveals a slightly rock yet rigorously sophisticated soul, perfectly in line with the Yamamoto aesthetic philosophy. Partendo dal presupposto che secondo lui un uomo ha bisogno solo di una camicia, una giacca e un pantalone, Yohji Yamamoto sviluppa una collezione semplice, lineare ma carica di poesia e di fascino, grazie anche alle immagini oniriche stampate all over dell’artista Suzume Uchida. Volumi…

An original interpretation of the safari theme in a deluxe sportswear key by Astrid Andersen through metallic lace, floral print silks, natural cottons, fine woven fabrics. The very talented London-based Danish designer continues to refine her highly original calligraphy by injecting unexpected elements into the language of sportswear and streetwear. The references of times and traditions long gone is a further confirmation of her continuing research into finding a new definition of menswear. Un’originale interpretazione del tema safari in chiave deluxe sportswear da parte di Astrid Andersen tramite pizzi metallici, sete con fantasie floreali, cotoni in tonalità naturali, materiali finemente tessuti. Nel tentativo di trovare una nuova definizione di menswear la bravissima stilista danese continua a perfezionare la sua calligrafia iniettando elementi inaspettati, come riferimenti a codici di stile e…

All that is associated with a holiday in a caravan park is at the basis of the latest Cotweiller collection. Yet Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty, who founded the label in 2010, didn’t fall into the trap of stereotypical cliches but rather constructed a great selection of functional pieces, some made with UV protective layers. Key pieces? Cargo shorts, the textured tops, the lightweight outerwear. The label continues the collaboration started last season with Reebok for both apparel and footwear. Una vacanza in un parco roulotte è il punto di partenza della nuova collezione Cotweiller. Tuttavia, Ben Cottrell e Matthew Dainty, che hanno fondato la label nel 2010, non hanno ricreato cliché e stereotipi ma disegnato una selezione di pezzi funzionali, alcuni realizzati con finissaggi con protezione anti UV. Fra…

Patrick Grant continues to refine his calligraphy whilst redefining the concept of contemporary tailoring. The new E.Tautz style codes are soft tailored jackets with wide volumes and wide legged pleated trousers, boxy shirts with both vertical and horizontal stripes, details like very big patch pockets, a prevalent sense of ease and calm. Warm natural tones like sand and stone alongside an interesting shade of brown with a reddish glow, muted shades of grey, tones of blue. Patrick Grant continua a perfezionare la sua calligrafia e allo stesso tempo a ridefinire il concetto di sartoria contemporanea. I nuovi codici di stile secondo E.Tautz sono giacche sartoriali morbide con volumi ampi, pantaloni molto larghi con pinces, camicie con righe sia verticali che orizzontali, tasche applicate molto grandi, una sensazione generale di agio,…

The iconography linked to underground youth tribes is catalysed in a collage of styles and codes that explicitly and heavily refers to streetwear and sportswear. The mix&match of such a large number of different elements is evident in the graphics and the decorative details but also and especially in the construction of some garments that use distorted proportions, like much longer hems, and borrow items like sleeves, for example, from garments belonging to completely different categories. L’iconografia collegata alle tribù giovanili underground viene catalizzata in un collage di stili e codici che richiamano esplicitamente lo streetwear e lo sportswear. Il mix&match di una grande quantità di elementi diversi appare evidente nelle grafiche e nei dettagli decorativi ma anche e soprattutto nella costruzione di alcuni capi che utilizzano proporzioni svasate come…

A wonderfully contagious playfulness and joy de vivre for a collection that revisits, modifies, polishes, updates the style codes of the Maison. One of the best Vivienne Westwood in recent seasons as the allover prints, the sharp tailoring, the bold patterns, the sculptural shapes, the quirky and instantly recognisable details reminds us why Vivienne Westwood has written her name in bold capital letters in the annals of fashion history and why London remains the capital of thought-provoking fashion. Una voglia di vivere meravigliosamente contagiosa per una collezione che rivisita, modifica, perfeziona, aggiorna i codici di stile della Maison. Una fantastica performance perché le stampe allover, il tailoring perfetto, le fantasie audaci, le silhouette scultoree, i dettagli accattivanti e immediatamente riconoscibili ci ricordano le ragioni per cui Vivienne Westwood ha scritto…