Innholdsfortegnelse for 91 i Collezioni Uomo

The street is the world, the street is our everyday life, the street is where it all happens and where life takes shape, changes, creates itself. And it is therefore logical that, season after season, the street becomes more of a reference and an inspiration for the world of fashion. To observe and to analyse people and culture, rather than trying to impose a specific mood or a specific style, is a natural path to follow, especially at a time of creative chaos and uncertainty. As it already happened in the 1970’s, as a matter of fact a very strong trend at the moment, designers are again peering through the streets and markets of London, the underground clubs of New York, the alternative creative districts of Paris to get inspiration…

Getting dressed is, among other things, a reflection on the present, the past, the future. Climber B.C. offers elegant and authentic updated urban garments, rich in detail and high in quality, versatile and interchangeable. Starting with the meticulous research for suiting and outerwear fabrics, many of which from the Biella district and therefore Made in Italy. Wools, silks, denim and other novel materials are combined into new creative solutions in both formalwear and sportswear for harmonious looks adopted to everyday nomadic life. Following with the streamlined leaner silhouettes for pleasing proportions with a natural attitude. Ending with the palette ranging from neutral tones to multicolour digital effects in order to light up the genuine, independent, innovative ideas of a brand committed to give a updated vision of the near future.…

Florence Contemporary Urban Style Messagerie by Patrizio Piscaglia is a trip around the world, experienced with an original look and translated into a melting-pot of ideas and discoveries transferred on excellent tailoring and work uniforms. The collection adds also 1970’s references such as the tight blousons, the trousers, the oversized coats, the jackets with detachable fur lining. A poetry of vanity that lightens up colours and textures, made of exclusive designs and with an important focus on the tactile aspects of the materials, from the smoothness of velvets to the military cloths alongside cashmere, wool, cotton and oiled leathers. Red carpet looks, edgy urban uniforms, innovative jeanswear. Messagerie di Patrizio Piscaglia è un viaggio intorno al mondo, vissuto con uno sguardo originale e tradotto in un melting-pot di riflessioni e…

Florence Concept Korea presented the fashion shows by Bmuet(te) by Byungmun Seo and by Ordinary People in collaboration with Kocca. Two South Korean talents focused on craftsmanship and on gentle industrial manufacturing. The first through unconventional structured garments reworked with different elements and a poetic sensitivity. The latter through a sartorial and aesthetic flavour, attention to detail, high-quality yet comfortable materials. Concept Korea ha presentato le sfilate di Bmuet(te) by Byungmun Seo e Ordinary People in collaborazione con Kocca. Due talenti sudcoreani dediti all’artigianato e alla sua delicata trasformazione industriale. Il primo mediante una struttura non convenzionale del capo rielaborato creativamente con differenti elementi e sensibilità poetica. Il secondo di gusto esteta e sartoriale, curato nel dettaglio e nel tessuto pregiato ma confortevole.…

A CHARISMATIC AND CHAMELEONIC L.A. MOOD The mood of the Jeffrey Rudes collection is inspired by the city of Los Angeles and by the dichotomy between the Hollywood patina and a new creative impulse. Peacoat jackets, aviator coats, parkas, biker jackets, classic suits, work uniforms are revisited in an eccentric dichotomous way: design meets classic, rigour meets freedom, opulence meets minimalism, double materials and fluid lightness, impeccable cuts and relaxed sinuosity. Maverick, charismatic, chameleonic. Lo spirito della collezione di Jeffrey Rudes si ispira alla città di Los Angeles e alla dicotomia tra la patina hollywoodiana e nuovo impulso creativo. Dai peacoat, cappotti aviatore, parka, biker, abiti classici, divise da lavoro, rivisitati in modo eccentrico e dicotomico: design e classicità, rigore e libertà, opulenza e minimalismo, materiali doppiati o leggerezze fluide,…

SMART TECHNO ACTIVEWEAR Available from October 2017, the brand new TommyXRossignol capsule collection comprises of four iconic skiwear looks recognisable by a logo that blends the Tommy Hilfiger and Rossignol logos. Focus on skiing and winter sports with comfortable fit and a fusion of fashion and technical functionality. Red, blue, white uniforms comprisingofpaddedjackets, sportstrousers, boots, poles and helmets. La nuova capsule collection TommyXRossignol sarà lanciata nell’ottobre 2017 con quattro look da sci iconici, che fondono il concept del logo di Tommy Hilfiger e quello del gallo tricolore di Rossignol. In primo piano, lo sci e gli sport invernali realizzati con vestibilità confortevole e unione fra moda e funzionalità tecnica. Divise rosso, bianco e blu, con giacche imbottite, pantaloni sportivi, scarponi, bastoncini e il casco. www.tommy.com / www.rossignol.com…

Milano Texas Style Billionaire for super rich and powerful tycoons belonging to epic sagas and stories of multi-million dollar business transactions. A bit like the characters of the TV soap operas Dallas and Dynasty that for years showed the feuds of intriguing characters belonging to clashing dynasties. A hyper luxury wardrobe for an exciting lifestyle with no limits: unique pieces in reptile, mink, astrakhan, crocodile, evening wear outfits with sequins and plenty of decorative details, all sealed with a Texan hat. Billionaire veste tycoon extra ricchi e potenti, personaggi di saghe e storie epiche di business multimilionario. Un po’ come i personaggi delle soap opera Dallas e Dynasty, che hanno mostrato per anni faide di fascinosi personaggi, dinastie a confronto. Un guardaroba iper lussuoso dedicato a una vita eccitante e…

Milano Space Warriors Frankie Morello debuts on the catwalk with an epic wardrobe designed by the new creative team. Technology re-invents and reproduces ancient esoteric heroes dressed in a digital way. Ancient Egypt classic style with its hieroglyphics, sacred symbols, beetles as well as space exploration are part of an aesthetic language that mixes elements from the past and the present. Urban style jackets and trousers, sporty sweatshirts and jackets, gothic suits, furs, dark denim. Frankie Morello esordisce in passerella con un guardaroba epico disegnato dal nuovo team creativo. La tecnologia reinterpreta gli eroi antichi ed esoterici riprodotti per un vestire digitale. Dallo stile classico dell’antico Egitto coi suoi geroglifici, simboli sacri e scarabei, alle esplorazioni spaziali, in un linguaggio estetico che mescola elementi del passato e del presente: giacche…

Milano Go Climbing The Moncler Gamme Bleu collection is inspired by mountaineering and hiking themes reworked in a tailored key by Thom Browne’s ingenuity. Therefore sportswear uses special techniques and manual processes, layering, details made of ropes, knots, carabiners. The shapes play with volumes and variations of classic items and sporty pieces: jackets, coats, pea coat jackets, Chesterfield overcoats, trench coats, capes, cardigans, polo shirts, trousers, shorts, overalls, knitwear in jacquard, bouclé or printed wools, with fur panels, in nylon, velvet, sequins and rubber. The classic Harris Tweed pattern is re-interpreted in wool flannel, cashmere, Shetland, tweed, Donegal. Strong colours like the combination of red/white/blue or sky blue, yellow, white, grey. Black tie for the evening wear. Even the accessories are on theme: hiking leather boots, mountain caps, backpacks, protective…

Milano Eighties The Neil Barrett catwalk pulsates with underground rhythms and vibrations and with a new concept of wearable elegant pieces adapted to a dynamic urban versatility. Tailored suits and coats are revised with functional easy to wear fit and volumes. Coats, short biker jackets, trousers for pacing the streets with determination and energy. Efficient accessories, comfortable boots and shoes, utility bags and backpacks. La passerella di Neil Barrett pulsa ritmo e vibrazioni underground, una nuova concezione di pezzi eleganti, portabili e adattati alla versatilità dinamica cittadina. Abiti e capospalla sartoriali rivisti nella vestibilità e nella volumetrie, funzionali e facili da portare. Cappotti, giacconi biker corti, pantaloni per incedere su strada con grinta ed energia. Accessori efficienti, stivali e scarpe comodi, utility bag e zaini.…

Milano Rebel Style Versace aggregates a modern metropolitan group, clan, tribe that resonates with ancient echoes and African archetypes, symbolically sealed by hand-dyed or photographic prints. The models dance and float on the catwalk with double sport belts, on the waist, embraced by long knitted coats or by fluttering and dynamic light raincoats. Precious shearlings jackets, nylon blousons, sporty check shirts, handmade knitwear, relaxed, dynamic, lighter and tighter tailored suits. Readyto- wear accessories like the hiking sneakers, the compact and versatile Empire and Palladian bags with distinctive patterns, the V-Extreme Pro watch in stone grey or total black. Versace fa gruppo, clan, tribù. Metropolitana e moderna ma che risuona di echi antichi e archetipi africani, simbolicamente suggellati da stampe tinte a mano o fotografiche. L’uomo danza in passerella fluttuante, cinto…

SPORTY MIDDLE CLASS A modernised bourgeois poetic, yet retaining the rigour of traditional elegance dictates, breathing urban rhythms in constant flux. Dynamic pieces designed by David Marello: deconstructed jackets, fluid coats, slim fitted suits in lightweight noble wools, garment-dyed items. A passionate palette of warm burnt tones and lived-in petrol and cool blue shades. The K-Jacket style in suffused tartans and mélange, patterned or sable flannels. Refined frostylooking knitwear. Poetica borghese rimodernata, pur conservando il rigore dei dettami dell’eleganza tradizionale, che respira i ritmi cittadini in continuo mutamento. Pezzi dinamici immaginati da Davide Marello: giacche decostruite, cappotti scivolati, abiti asciutti tagliati con lane nobili e leggere, tinte in capo. Le nuance sono appassionate, colori bruciati caldi, ottani, blu raffreddati, dall’aria vissuta. K-Jacket declinata in tartan soffusi, in flanella mélange e…

A 100% GRAPHIC KNITWEAR WARDROBE Laser techniques, brand new stitches, graphic textures and patterns on jumpers but also on jackets, blazers and other items. Generous volumes, double knit felted wools, Nordic fisherman wefts, ribbed knits, embroideries. Integral part of the brand history, the argyle is more geometric and in contrasting colours on cashmere and tartan, with broken diamonds and kilt patterns. The designer Massimo Nicosia starts from the rich archive of ideas and techniques to push tradition to the limit, wherever possible. Lavorazioni al laser, inediti punti maglia, texture e pattern grafici, riprodotti su pullover ma anche giacche e blazer ed altri pezzi del guardaroba maschile. Volumi abbondanti, lana feltrata lavorata a punto doppio, trame da pescatore nordico, coste, ricami. L’Argyle fa parte della storia del marchio, geometrico, presentato sul…

Clothes for thought More often than not, while watching the Autumn/Winter 2017 collections showcased on the catwalks, as well as in the presentations and in the showrooms, of London Fashion Week Men’s, I found myself wondering about what were the motivations behind cuts that are so unusual. More often then not, I found myself thinking and reflecting about looks that might be challenging. More often than not, I found myself occupied with and preoccupied with multilayered thought processes about fabrics and materials that don’t look like what they really are. More often than not, I asked myself why sleeves and hems are most definitely too long and if trousers with a flower-shaped waistline will ever become a trend. More often than not, I remembered precisely what paraded in front of…

Athletic street style and uniforms for mountaineering, for the prairie, for urban environments Calvin Klein debuted with the first collection designed by Raf Simons, a tribute to America made of contemporary uniforms, fit for settings ranging from urban to rural. Ralph Lauren Purple Label offered a series of looks from weekend casual outfits to formal jackets, separate suits, overcoats. Raf Simons dealt with youth cultures whose uniforms are re-elaborated with meticulous sartorial skills. Coach ranged from 1980’s New York hip-hop to a deluxe revaluation of the cowboy prairie look. Philipp Plein mixed streetwear and sportswear with couture for a unisex audience. Technology at Lacoste with aeronautical and space materials and at Moncler Grenoble with an entire multi-performance stylish ski and après-ski wardrobe for impossible climate conditions. A sporty attitude with…

Paris Unconventional Youth Dries Van Noten man wears the lighthearted image of a 60’s guy with the freedom and strenght of the early 80’s. He wears wide shoulder and large lapel coats, white shirt, denim trousers and combat boot. Sweatshirt and quilted coats, red and black tartan garments and sweaters made with patchwork or Peruvian patterns, the latest also reproduced in print on quilted jackets. Spead all over the collection there are fresh new prints, maxi labels from renowned fabric’ and Scottish wools suppliers, as well as big flowers pattern that we also find embroidered on suits, shirts and varnished leather outerwear. L’uomo Dries Van Noten veste l’immagine spensierata del tipico ragazzo anni ‘60 ma con la libertà e il vigore della generazione anni ‘80. Indossa cappotti con ampie spalle…

Paris Country Rock Haider Ackermann applies the concept of opulent elegance to next season’s wardrobe. The silhouette is tuned, coats, jackets and windbreaker are often worn on a waistcoat, a slightly short trouser letting a glimpse on a thick wool patterned socket, many knitwork and T-shirts. Leather, velvet, silk, wools, fabrics play with graphic drawings, pied de poule, checkered, stripes, tie micro patterns, animalier and tartan. Colours are royal blue, pink, black and white and metallic gold and silver. A burnt look intercedes between two different materials creating even an embroidered effect. Haider Ackermann applica il concetto di opulente eleganza al guardaroba della prossima stagione. La silhouette è aggiustata, cappotti, giacche e giubbotti sono spesso indossati con il gilet, i pantaloni sono leggermente corti e lasciano intravvedere calzini fantasia in…

Paris Young Americans It’s an all Newyorker collection, honouring the 70’s, the 80’s and the 90’s and the artists who marked their glory, from Andy Warhol to Robert Mapplethorpe. Louis Vuitton man, with his street style look, is non-chalant and mixes social aesthetic canons. He wears crocodile jackets with shearling lining, abundant sweaters open on the sides, hidden buttoned cardigans and a sweatshirt reproduction made of wool or chenille. The silhouette is fluid, outerwear and trousers are soft and comfortable, shirts have a Korean collar, jacket and pyjamas style printed silk trousers and some piece in camouflage pattern. Una collezione tutta newyorchese, in onore degli anni ’70, ’80 e ’90 con gli artisti che ne hanno segnato la gloria artistica da Andy Warhol a Robert Mapplethorpe. L’uomo Louis Vuitton, dall’immagine…

Paris Inside Tailoring Once again the Thom Browne playful and visionary creativity takes us onto an authentic style journey. Parallel visions of the same concept conceived on different dimensional levels. Only one fabric and only one colour for different looks that are shown first as trompe l’oeil overalls in a single module, followed by the same style broken down and assembled in a 2D version, just like a paper pattern. The fashion show then ends with formalwear versions of the same garments. A sartorial journey, matched with a white shirt with very long sleeves and decorated with hundreds of fabric covered buttons. Ancora una volta l’estro creativo ludico e visionario di Thom Browne ci accompagna in un vero e proprio percorso di stile. Visioni parallele dello stesso concetto concepite su…

Paris Ordinary Men Demna Gvasalia goes on in his revolutionary journey through the streetwear world, true juvenile worship, in a continue recast, revisioned transversal vision, a distorting mirror reproducing nothing less than something already existing. Overcome the language of uniforms, the common people’s dressing code are searched, stereotypes of every social class, in their everyday lives. Creativity or simple extravagance, the collection doesn’t lack of writings and encoded messages, the silhouette is composed by overlappings, oversize garments and outerwear made of two or more clothings of the same kind. Demna Gvasalia prosegue il suo viaggio rivoluzionario nel mondo dello streetwear, vero culto giovanile, nella continua visione trasversale rielaborata, revisionata, specchio deformante che riproduce niente di meno che qualcosa già esistente. Superato il linguaggio delle uniformi, si ricercano i codici di…

In thtis enesw tcoollection, Karl Mommoo Homme’s dandy style, designed by the stylist Carlo Langella, was influenced by the art and in particularly the work of Carlo Parlati, a Neapolitan sculptor, painter and engraver known for his work with coral and his intensely patterned paintings, wich featured on shirts and on a few jackets, worn with rather slim jeans. A brown leather bluson over a formal suit betrayed the brand’s rock soul Lo stile dandy di Karl Mommoo Homme disegnato dallo stilista Carlo Langella si lascia influenzare in questa nuova collezione dall’arte ed in particolare dalle opere di Carlo Parlati, scultore, pittore e incisore napoletano noto per la lavorazione del corallo e per i quadri dalle fantasie intense che si ritrovano sulle camicie e anche su qualche giacca portata con…

A recently opened emporium located in the heart of London aims to “change the way the men buy beauty products”. Intriguingly and unexpectedly named Beast, the new store offers a carefully curated and edited selection of products by over 80 independent niche grooming brands from across the world, including some of my own favourites such as Dr Jacksons, Odin, LA: Bruket, Cowshed, Escentric Molecules and Bad Norwegian. Situated in Earlham Street in Covent Garden, one of the many retail districts in the multifaceted shopping map of the British capital, the boutique is characterised by a no-nonsense design focused on maximising the display of the products by using minimalist metal cabinets against bricks walls painted white. Just as its easily navigable and user friendly website, the store is organised according to…

This season Tranoï Paris Men’s chose a new emblematically Parisian location, the Carreau du Temple, situated not far from its usual venue Palais de la Bourse. The two sites were connected by a convenient shuttle service. Therefore Tranoï was the only trade show located nearby Le Marais during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The new location showcased exclusively new men’s collections, the result of an increasingly accurate selection capable to provide an all-round wardrobe for contemporary men in all their different facets and for all the different opportunities they may face. Among the brands and designers exhibiting there were Angus Chang, Archive’s, Giacomo Bacci, Guntas, HTC Hollywood Trading Company, Kadet, Les Benjamins, Marc Jacques Burton and Tom Rebl. Other brands showing at Palais de la Bourse presented both the women’s pre-collections…

Called Collection 9 & 26, the new Autumn/ Winter collection by Barbara I Gongini comes to life from the encounter/clash between traditional tailored suits and urban streetwear, a fashion dichotomy fashion approached by designer in a very avant-garde way. The focus is on basic items perceived as an artist’s blank canvas that the wearer is called to customise and make personal. The collection also revolves around organic shapes and silhouettes inspired by Northern Hemisphere where the designer comes from. Lightweight cotton, raw linen, soft leathers, long-haired wool play a significant role. Dusty tones, plastered textures, ash hues burst into the monochromatic palette giving a specific Northern flavour. Barbara I Gongini also launched a limited edition range that transforms classic garments in a contemporary way. Each item is manufactured by hand…

A slimmer fit and shorter lengths for the jackets by Kiton made of new natural stretch fabrics that give elasticity to pure cashmere,14 micron wools, flannels. Edited in a contemporary key, the coat has peak lapels and patch pockets. In the bespoke range, the coats are available, just like the three-piece suits, in unique patterns and fabric mixes. For the first time in bright colours, the exclusive vicuña fibre brightens up blazers and tuxedos. Fitting più asciutto e lunghezza ridotta per le giacche Kiton realizzate con i nuovi tessuti ‘natural stretch’ che conferiscono elasticità al puro cashmere, lana 14 micron e flanelle. Editato in chiave contemporanea, il cappotto ha rever a lancia e tasche a toppa e nell’offerta bespoke vanta esclusivi pattern e misture, come l’abito a tre pezzi. L’esclusiva fibra vicuña,…

Milano Urban Dandy Elongated slim silhouettes, close to the body, and a sartorial definition of outerwear for the coats and biker jackets with precise lines, “as if it were strokes of a pencil” declared the creative director Tomas Maier. Fur and sheepskin overcoats constructed as double-breasted coats, deluxe leather trench coats and parkas, worn with a bow tie. Eveningwear suits play with geometric but relaxed monochrome contrasts. Silhouette allungate e asciutte, vestite sul corpo, definizione sartoriale di capospalla, cappotti e modelli biker dalle linee precise, “come se fosse il tratto di una matita” dichiara Tomas Maier, direttore creativo del marchio. Soprabiti di pelliccia e montone costruiti come i cappotti doppio petto, i trench e i parka di pelle, lussuosi, indossati con il papillon. Gli abiti da sera giocano su contrasti…

Milano Elegant Opulence The Giorgio Armani catwalk brings forward his vision of fashion and of menswear, elegant and gentle but also strong and athletic, always attuned to beauty and charm like no one else. Even the silhouettes fit to this fine exaltation of individual character and body that officiates magnitude and beauty with luxurious workmanship, voluptuous fine materials, impeccable cuts. Tradition and heritage look onto the contemporary, inciting to respect, at the same time to celebrate and embrace, just like the beautiful wraparound scarves on shoulders and chest. The classic Armani composed palette flickers with light and introduces orange, powder blue, intense burgundy, new tones of green and blue. Giorgio Armani porta in passerella la sua visione di moda e uomo, elegante e garbata ma anche vigorosa e atletica, sintonizzato…

Milano Digital Soldiers Moschino goes back to a technological, digital, galactic future. The uniforms by Jeremy Scott have military strengths: overalls, blousons, combat jackets and trousers, harnesses, cavalry and parachuting details, evening wear with galactic or epic decorative details. Romantic prints in contrast with the decorated military caps, anti-uniforms in floral denim, paint smudges, post-modern cyber details for a free, artistic and engaging army. Moschino ritorna al futuro, tecnologico e digitale, galattico. Le divise di Jeremy Scott hanno forza militare, tute e giubbotti, giacche e pantaloni combat, imbracature e dettagli cavalleria e paracadutismo, proposte da sera equipaggiate di decori galattici o epici. Stampe romantiche a contrasto coi berretti militari decorati, anti-uniformi in denim floreale, colate di vernice e cyber dettagli post-moderni. Un esercito libero, artistico, coinvolgente.…

Milano Seventies 3.0 Prada observes with a creative look the endless succession of contemporary everyday life. An aesthetic and perspective vision of public and community aspects but also the study of the intimate personal worlds. A sober and rational collection, focused on contemporary taste and contemporary demands. And yet simplicity becomes a masterpiece of theatrical elegant references, sometimes daring when it comes to the must-have accessories and to the 1970’s, a period of fervent rebellion, metamorphosis, daring artistic freedom. On the catwalk, sartorial excellence, flawless jackets and overcoats, straight trousers, bon chic bon genre button-down shirts, V-neck pullovers. Re-elaborated from the charm of the 1970’s, intarsia and patterns, warm colours, fur inserts, design details that move the usual position of pockets, belts and straps, household slippers covered with luxurious fur.…

ORIGINAL SPORT URBANWEAR A wardrobe of autonomous yet connected items designed to be worn in a original unconventional way. Hybrid combinations in use and details: shirts with zippers, joggers/ trousers, tartan tailored double-breast jackets, Mexican poncho style outerwear, workwear with stitching and tacking, oversize military coats and loden overcoats. Guardaroba di pezzi autonomi, connessi fra di loro e pensati per vestire originale, anticonformista. I mix possono essere anche ibridi nella fruizione e nei dettagli: camicie con cerniere, pantaloni joggers, giacche sartoriali doppiopetto declinate con il tartan, capospalla a poncho messicano, tenute da lavoro con impunture e imbastiture, cappotti e loden militari di dimensioni extra large. www.andreapompilio.it…

ARTISTS’ WORKSHOP The men’s collection is inspired by the atmosphere in an artists’ workshop where the collective imagination of creative minds expresses itself in dynamic expressionist and abstract actions, just like the elegant and light palette à la Jean-Michel Basquiat. Easily matchable pieces, sophisticatedly cut suits, mimetic patterns, denim and workwear reinterpretations, fluid jackets, embroidered trousers, all with emphasised textures and surfaces. La collezione uomo si ispira ad un’atmosfera da bottega degli artisti, immaginario collettivo di menti creative in azione dinamica espressionista e astratta, come la palette di colori, elegante e libera, alla Jean-Michel Basquiat. Pezzi combinabili, abiti dai tagli sofisticati, mimetica, re-interpretazioni denim e workwear, giacche fluide con pantaloni ricamati, tutto lavorato per enfatizzare texture e superfici.…

The Parisian fashion world, in this men’s fashion-week, showed itself attentive to worldwide cultural melting pot, and particularly to American history. Across the board more than ever, the designers drew their inspiration from this great nation. Somebody simply from its flag and its colours, someone else in historic periods or else to the men that determined its history and trends. Street style is no doubt the strongest trend, it’s cool today wearing an overall with a coat, mixing sportswear and sartorial. More and more frequent, in a completely natural way, are the collaborations between fashion and sport brands. These changes, even at a social level, proved that men love more and more to dress, the time of hyper confidential codes has ended nowadays, regardless age or social class, he sharpens…

Paris Contemporary Poets Geoffrey B. Small’s “secrets” collection hinted at things and truths that are hidden and not openly expressed and focused on the pocket as the central point of the extreme handmade super deluxe research collection’s design. First-in-theworld new pocket designs, shapes and constructions all based upon impeccable hand-tailoring and classic forms ran through the entire collection. Circular-welt, diagonal-welt, ruffled-welt, curved-welt and triangle-welt besom pocket designs with a variety of beautiful new cutting-edge ultra-luxury research fabric collections using Piacenza superfine cashmere, super 210’s, and entirely handwoven La Colombina fabrics with all-new hand dyeing and fabric treatment techniques. La collezione “segreti” di Geoffrey B. Small suggerisce temi e verità nascoste e non apertamente espressi focalizzando l’attenzione sulla tasca come elemento chiave. Decisamente di ricerca e di lusso e realizzata principalmente…

Paris Sport de Luxe A more relaxed casual attitude for Hermès. The sartorial elegance and craftsmanship of the Parisian Maison plays with and appropriates the style codes typical of sportswear, blending them with deluxe high quality fabrics and leathers and with a contemporary urban formality. Relaxed volumes and elongated silhouettes. Precious leather patchworks and fur embellished sweaters alongside flannels and cashmere fabrics. A somber and stern, yet warm and enveloping, autumnal palette. Per la prossima stagione l’uomo Hermès approccia un’attitudine più casual e rilassata. L’eleganza e la maestria sartoriale della Maison interpretano e fanno propri i codici di stile dello sportswear fondendoli magistralmente con il lusso di tessuti e pellami prestigiosi e con la formalità urbana contemporanea. Volumi rilassati ma silhouette allungate, patch di pellami preziosi e maglioni arricchiti da…

THE EVOLUTION OF NEAPOLITAN TAILORING Our interview with Carlo Langella who, along his brother Alessandro, is updating the Neapolitan tailoring traditions with Karl Mommoo Homme Langella & Figli is an Italian family business where the two Langella brothers, Carlo and Alessandro, both from Naples but based in Bologna, conduct their design work. If the Langella & Figli label is classic men’s formalwear, the Karl Mommoo Homme collection on the other hand aims to be a bridge between past and future. It proposes suits, tailored jackets, elegant coats, shirts with bold patterns, modern knitwear: it can be defined in fact, as a crossover collection with streetwear elements. We talked with Carlo Langella about this and many other things. What are the origins of the company? The company was founded 35 years…

Alberto proposes a great selection of styles made in very warm and soft wools and flannels for the Autumn/Winter 2017 season. The German company specialised in trousers manufacturing is always in tune with the times as it introduces every season significant changes to the styles of its products. This collection, for example, witnesses a series of changes in the cuts, sometimes subtle, sometimes more evident and rather drastic. A significant example of this approach is the ‘Baggy’: a strong and high visual impact variation on the joggers theme with pleats and elasticated hems. The ‘Deluxe’ denim range comprises of a selection of Autumn/Winter 2017 must-have items that most certainly will meet the expectations of the myriads of fans of the brand, not only thanks to the perfect cuts and sophisticated…

The Autumn/Winter 2017 collection by German brand Roy Robson is called Smart Performance. The name was not chosen randomly: the perfect symbiosis between art and smart fashion design is the successful artistic evolution of classic garments in a performance that borders on being a masterpiece. Nils Schaefer, Head of Design of the brand, explains: “In today’s world clothes must not only look good and be on trend but also meet the most diverse expectations and needs required by a multitasking contemporary lifestyle”. The new collection offers the added value of modernity and topicality to the winning combination of perfect fits, excellent quality, extreme comfort. The “form follows function” concept is indeed translated into simple structures, clean lines, the use of special materials with specific characteristics in terms of functionality and…

From formalwear and tailoring to casualwear and leisurewear, without forgetting footwear and accessories. The range of proposals for Autumn/Winter 2017 showcased at the latest edition of Pure Man, the section dedicated to menswear and men’s accessories within Pure London, increased not only in terms of numbers, with a threefold increment for a total of over 150 exhibitors from 23 different countries, but also in terms of variety and across the range in terms of different categories and prices. The selection of mid to high-end collections by British and international brand and labels included Berwich, Remus Uomo, Aereonautica Militare, The Project Garments, Roberto Ricci Designs, Geographical Norway, Barqet as well as Cheap Monday, Bench, WeSC, Blend. In occasion of the February edition, Pure Man expanded further its offering by introducing the…

Florence Street Updating The Belgian designer Tim Coppens presents apocalyptic atmospheres for outlaws with a refined, and at same time rude, aesthetics that mixes tailoring with the charm of the biker and equestrian worlds. Imagine an athletic and stylish Mad Max, wearing tailored jackets, coats, sheepskin jackets, sweaters with explosive slogans, biker boots made in collaboration with UAS (Under Armour Sportswear) and sunglasses made in collaboration with the Berlin label Mykita. A special energy that envelops both present and future without compromise. Dal designer belga Tim Coppens, atmosfere da apocalisse per protagonisti fuorilegge presentati con una estetica raffinata e al contempo rude, mescolandovi sartoria, fascino biker ed equestre. Per immaginare un Mad Max atletico ed elegante in giacca, cappotto e montone, maglie con slogan esplosivi, stivali da motociclista realizzati in…

LUXORY SPORTSWEAR Collaborations with Hettabretz for the limited edition leather outerwear, with Enzo Bonafè for the handmade classic footwear, with Mitzuno for the running sneakers, with Tecknomonster for the carbon fibre luggage. Technological avant-garde and aesthetic purity are the style codes of both the super sportive Lamborghini cars style and of the Classic range of performance jackets, the Casual range of celebratory T-shirts with paint hand strokes, the Casual Vintage range for daring pilots, the brand new Event Suit range with blazers and total black tailored denim. Collaborazioni esterne con Hettabretz per capospalla in pelle in edizione limitata, calzature classiche realizzate a mano da Enzo Bonafè, sneaker running di Mitzuno e valigeria in carbonio con TecknoMonster. Avanguardia tecnologica e purezza estetica, sono i codici di stile delle auto supersportive e…

KNITWEAR WITH SECRET INSIDE The inside of the garments with a different look, not just in terms of colours but also as a second skin, is the leitmotif of the entire collection. Jacket/cardigan hybrids in a mix of vaguely military style and metropolitan feel, raincoats and bomber jackets with technical finishes and cashmere/wool lining, wool or alpaca pullovers, as well as jackets and blazers, with striking inside details. Airbrushed colourful garments with soft yet edgy colour tones. Interni con una seconda fisionomia, non solo di colore ma come seconda pelle, presupposto della intera collezione. Giacche-cardigan in un mix fra foggia vagamente militare e gusto metropolitano, impermeabili e bomber con copertura tecnologica e interno in cashmere-lana, pullover di lana o alpaca e interni sorprendenti, lo stesso vale per giacca e blazer.…

TIMELESS ELEGANCE OF VINTAGE UNIFORMS A collection focused on re-using and restyling vintage military uniforms as well as on new nonchalant, relaxed, timeless sartorial items. In collaboration with the Japanese designer Teppei Sugaya, Andrea Rosso presents a creative mix of artisanal skills and rational aesthetics. Each piece bears the discreet brand logo comprising of two stitched rectangles as well as the name of the garment and the military reference. Collezione focalizzata sia sul recupero e sul restyling di uniformi militari vintage sia su nuovi capi di abbigliamento maschile sartoriale senza tempo, disinvolti e rilassati. Andrea Rosso, in collaborazione con il designer giapponese Teppei Sugaya, presenta questo mix creativo lavorato con sapienza artigianale ed estetica razionale; ogni pezzo porta il logo discreto del marchio, due rettangoli impunturati, nome del capo, della…

Inspired by the style of John Lennon yet interpreted for the contemporary attitude, Stephen F’s Fall 2017 collection includes four-piece suit designed to be integrated one another and with outerwear and sportswear. Black and white base is perfectly complemented with a range of manly grays, shades of camel, traditional navy and signature blue. Designed in Sweden, manufactured there and in Italy, for a sophisticated and international menswear. Ispirata allo stile John Lennon degli anni Settanta, la collezione autunnale di Stephen F comprende abiti quattro pezzi disegnati per essere integrati gli uni con gli altri e con i capi outwear e sportivi. La base di bianchi e neri si completa perfettamente con le gamme dei grigi, cammello, il tradizionale color navy e il blu simbolo del marchio. Disegnata in Svezia, prodotta…

The collections have a sober and rational matrix, focused on contemporary taste and everyday life demands. However, they constantly re-elaborate the aesthetics and the perspectives in their public and collective aspects but also in the intimate personal world. Yet, this radicalism devoted to the need of fruition often becomes a masterpiece of elegant scenic references, sometimes audacious, with a seasonal focus on the 1970’s, a period of fervent metamorphosis and artistic freedom, and on the digitisation of an immersive techno cyber future. Militant uniforms, overalls, anti-uniforms, avant-garde design details, beautiful intarsia and patterns, warm colours, utility features from the mountaineering and hiking worlds that move the usual position of pockets, belts, straps, ropes, knots, carabiners. Tradition and heritage look on to the contemporary as materials are precious and voluptuous and…

Milano Dynamic Tailoring Ermenegildo Zegna debuts with the first collection of contemporary craftsmanship by the new creative director Alessandro Sartori. Functional deluxe urban garments, filled with tailoring and sportswear cross-pollinations as well as traditional and multicultural reference. A poetically on-trend masculine, 24/7 dynamic, architectural formal attire with defined but fluid silhouettes. Engineered casentino felt, lightweight cashmere, printouts of jacquard and geometric patterns, soft leathers for suits, coats, parkas, casual jackets. The accessories, some in woven leather, are a must: sneakers, sturdy brogues with silicone-dipped soles, portfolio bags, oversized backpacks, schoolbags. A selection of looks will be available made-to-measure in selected mono brand boutiques worldwide with a prompt delivery within six weeks. Ermenegildo Zegna debutta con la prima collezione artigianale contemporanea di Alessandro Sartori, nuovo direttore artistico, presentando funzionali e lussuosi…

Milano Seventies Masquerade Fashionable witchcraft by Alessandro Michele, the creative director of the House of Gucci, who shapes contrasting materials and distills plants and animals into the opulent textures of the clothes on the catwalk. Snakes, peonies, roses, beetles, butterflies, themed trompe l’oeil effects on 1970’s accentuated silhouettes, triangular trousers, short boxy blousons, leggings, vinyl, oversize coats, stylised jackets. A plethora of many other ingredients for dandy magic potions for contemporary menswear. Stregonerie modaiole di Alessandro Michele, direttore creativo della Maison Gucci, che plasma materie a contrasto, distilla piante e animali che divengono le trame opulente degli abiti in passerella. Serpenti, peonie e rose, scarabei e farfalle, trompe l’oeil a tema, su silhouette anni Settanta accentuate, pantaloni a triangolo, giubbini corti e squadrati, fuseaux, vinilico, cappotti over, giacche stilizzate e…

Milano Street Glam No. 21, the stylish brand by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, is always focused on contemporary suggestions elaborated with the sartorial and manufacturing know-how of its founder. Echoes of the 1968 youth rebellion and the charm of the 1970’s, by definition an artistic, creative, rich with free experimentation decade, flow together into a conceptual, intimate, humanist, but also aggressive and propulsive, interpretation of fashion. Active cultural and political circles, freedom to think and to express a personal aesthetics, British references, rebellious biker elements are grafted together on traditional menswear craftsmanship and elegance, preceding the utilitarianism and functionality of contemporary urban sportswear. Parkas, sheepskin and pea coat jackets, coats in a mix of natural and technological yarns, fur coats, bomber jackets, camouflage uniforms, warm and extra soft sweaters and cardigans, pure…

Milano Urban Sophistication Salvatore Ferragamo debuts with the first collection designed by Guillaume Meilland, the French designer who previously worked at Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin. An interesting challenge that aims to re-elaborate modernity by starting from the Italian know-how and changes direction towards pieces with an international appeal viewed through the sophisticated lens of French couture. A melting pot of fabrics, techniques, palettes, balances of elongated structures with silhouettes and volumes. Rubberised leather trench coats, outdoor pea coats and jackets made of unexpected materials, chunky knitwear, suits as new sartorial expressions in line with the needs of contemporary men. Accessories for enthusiast users of urban, stylish, sporty, comfortable, active items like workwear boots, elongated moccasins with woven uppers, handyman bags, oversize satchels, bum bags and rucksacks. Salvatore Ferragamo sfila…

VITALITY & NATURE POWER The energy of nature in its deepest essence and in the primal forces of Earth, Water, Air and Fire breaks into the urban uniforms of Black, Gold and Silver, the three different ranges by Antony Morato. Black: a blend of military style, special materials like fur and ribbed or patterned fabrics, embroideries for jackets and tuxedos, earthy colours for Black. Gold: glaciers and minerals imagery combined with rigorous graphics. Silver: air and parachuting themes within a sporty context Everything absolutely cohesive thanks to the Antony Morato vital and dynamic creative fire. L’energia della natura, nella sua essenza più profonda e nelle forze primordiali di Terra, Acqua, Aria e Fuoco, irrompe nelle divise cittadine delle tre linee Black, Gold e Silver, di Antony Morato. La prima mescola…

EASY FORMALWEAR AND COUTURE A contemporary formalwear that beats the different times of the day. Therefore a sporty casual style is associated with looks worn in the office. Softened outerwear, roll necks instead of shirts, sporty trousers matched with unstructured foldable jackets and featherweight formal coats with elongated volumes. Unique irreplaceable handmade pieces in the Platinum range. È vestire formale contemporaneo che scandisce i momenti diversi della giornata, dunque lo stile casual e sportivo si associa alle divise da ufficio. Capospalla ammorbiditi, girocolli al posto della camicia, pantaloni sportivi, abbinati a giacche destrutturate e ripiegabili, cappotti formali dai volumi allungati oppure in peso piuma. Nella linea Platinum, proposte uniche non replicabili, realizzate a mano. www.eleventy.it…

FASHION MEETS ACTIVEWEAR The first collection designed by the new creative director Alessandro Sartori is innovative in terms of style and materials. The techno merino, at times matched with jersey and silk, is the perfect example of traditional materials projected into the future. A late 1970’s sporting world mood designed for metropolitan schedules. Energetic pieces with a tailoring matrix and special warm effects, matched with super light sneakers. Prima collezione sport disegnata da Alessandro Sartori, nuovo direttore creativo, innovativa per ricerca stilistica e tessile. Techno merino, abbinato anche a jersey e seta, è un esempio del materiale tradizionale proiettato al futuro. Atmosfere del mondo sportivo fine anni ‘70 ideato per lo schedule metropolitano. Capi energici, di matrice sartoriale, con speciali effetti riscaldanti, accompagnati da sneaker super leggere. www.zegna.com…

Paris Rock’n’Style Haider Ackermann, the new art director at Berluti’s, expresses his creativity in the respect of the maison’s codes and using the Italian house’s technical savoir-faire at its best. The silhouette on the catwalk has a masculine and sensual aesthetics, enlightened by a palette in which electric blue and powder pink alternate to purple and burgundy shake the monotony of the browns and khakis. Turtleneck sweaters are made in cashmere, built with just two seams, and windbreakers have a nylon lining. An aviator style leather jacket has a hint of red crocodile inside the neck matching with the lining, the double breast has eight buttons and the slightly short straight trouser is the leitmotif of the runway show. Haider Ackermann, nuovo direttore artistico di Berluti, esprime la sua creatività…

Paris Playful Tailoring Riccardo Tisci looks at America with kid’s eyes and adds this collection serenity, plays of proportions and optical illusions. The flag’s colours are repeated and mixed up, stripes running in all directions creating graphic figures, the tie is distorted or fading on the front of trimmed shirts with hems and draperies. Scottish fabrics juxtapose to pinstripe and Kabuki masks appear on the front of knitworks and shirts. Sweatshirt laces and hoods are replaced by foulards, sartorial outerwear feature disproportionate buttons, in copper or wood, while for the evening they become proper jewels. Riccardo Tisci guarda all’America con gli occhi di un bambino e aggiunge a questa collezione serenità, giochi di proporzioni e trompe l’oeil. I colori della bandiera si ripetono e si mischiano, le righe corrono sui…

Paris Urban Survivors “Archive”, an anniversary title for the ten years of the Korean brand’s who, at the occasion, refiled its iconic garments which, overtime, nurtured its DNA, In primis trench coat, parka and bomber jacket. In his current thought Juun J. elaborates an oversized wardrobe made with satin fabrics, leather, nylon, cloth and the classic pinstripe. The silhouette is stratified in an overlapping of outerwear like shearlings, quilted jackets and sweaters. The shirt has different interpretations and cargo pockets are placed in unlikely places. The inspiration runs between military and hunter and even for this season on the palette we find black, blue, white and military green. “Archive” , titolo celebrativo per i 10 anni del brand coreano che per l’occasione ha riproposto i capi iconici che nel tempo…

Paris Street Couture Chitose Abe changes her attitudes and presents a more poised, harmonious collection with less loud (strong) pieces, in a contrast of shapes and colours. Her hybridation technique is still current, but less calculated, less casual, it’s now more about matching a herringbone tweed coat with a mountaineering jacket, or embroidering the collar of a denim work jacket. Colours and materials infuse a calm and organized atmosphere. Little woolen fringes come out of coats and jackets’ sleeves and a gigantic pixels print is repeated on fabrics and furs. Chitose Abe cambia le sue abitudini e presenta una collezione più posata, armoniosa, con meno pezzi forti, in contrasto di tessuti e forme. La sua tecnica di ibridazione è sempre attuale ma più calcolata, meno casuale, ora si tratta di…

Paris Rock your Style Outerwear, suit, little bow tie, light sweater and sneaker are the elements in this silhouette in which we can detect, together with the fine materials, the maison’s sartorial savoir-faire in the image of a college student inspired by English history, a gentlemen’s club and the anarchic soul of punk. Pierpaolo Piccioli starts in Liverpool with Jamie Reid, the artist who created the Sex Pistols’ graphic image, framed letters appear on the garments forming sentences and slogans in the evolution and interpretation of a new, modern man, transposing his criteria and merging gentleness and virility. Capispalla, abito, piccolo papillon, maglioncino e sneakers sono gli elementi di questa collezione che si contraddistingue, insieme ai materiali pregiati, per il savoir-faire sartoriale della maison creando un’immagine ‘college’ ispirata alla storia…

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