Innholdsfortegnelse for Uomo Collezioni 89 i Collezioni Uomo

MEMORY AS THE NEW MUSE

Yes I know, it is a very fashionable word, rather ’abused’ lately by fashion professionals. Therefore it is inevitable to use it: how can one not talk about vintage when reviewing the London, Florence, Milan, Paris and New York catwalk shows? The most interesting collections for next Autumn/Winter underlined a retro charm expressed through prints, fabrics, patterns, colours. Designers and creative directors, each in his or her specific own way, rummaged through archives and second hand markets in order to give new life to styles and creations from the past by masterly projecting them in the immediate contemporaneity. With this in mind, it goes without saying that the general mood is prone to a romantic allure, long-forgotten in the name of minimalism and of an alleged conceptual modernity. Of course,…

3 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

CASHMERE EXTRAFINE

Made of ultra fine yarns and cashmere, the Autumn/Winter 2016 men’s collection by Pashmere is a perfect example of modernity and craftsmanship. Specialised in refined materials and in 100% Made in Italy high quality workmanship, the brand manufactures its products in its mills located in Umbria, Italy’s most famous district for cashmere production. As the Pashmere garments protect from the cold but also from the heat, the extra fine knits with the ideal light weight for contemporary travellers have secured a leading position in the world. Made using ancient looms restored according to longstanding knitwear traditions, the sophisticated versatile garments are nowadays an indispensable part of the modern wardrobe, both for work and for leisure. In the year of its fiftieth anniversary Pashmere is experiencing exceptional results in terms of…

2 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

DESIGN AND CRAFTSMANSHIP

Four generations of shoemaking history, from the grandfather Adelio Franceschetti to the present owners, have accompanied elegant men for nearly one hundred years. Entirely Made in Italy, the Franceschetti handcrafted shoes are characterised by the extreme care and passion for ‘properly done’ things through the hands of master craftsmen and a wisdom that is handed down from father to son. High quality leathers, colours, construction, stitching, as in the case of the ‘Blake Rapid’, a special welding process between sole and upper to give a longer life to the shoes. Each pair of shoes for modern gentlemen seem unique, hand painted and blended or in two different colours. The collection comprises also of classic, casual chic or more urban and sporty styles, all available in the showroom in Milan, located…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

89° PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO

Tecno Sport Tailoring. Urban explorers and demanding globetrotters ask for stylish attire, layerable, high-performance, multi seasonal. To seal the trend that cross-pollinates tailoring with sportswear and technology, the 89th edition of Pitti Uomo closed with a fashion show and event by adidas Originals by White Mountaineering. A reinterpretation of the adidas Originals codes by the designer Yosuke Aizawa, the soul of the Japanese brand White Mountaineering, a mix of menswear tradition and technical materials, design, functionality. ‘Born in the USA’ was a section at Pitti Uomo entirely dedicated to overseas brands with proposals originating from army uniforms, the main trend for next Autumn/Winter. Inspired by US Air Force pilots and cadets like Cockpit Use and Cadet, by the styles in vogue in California like Krammer & Stoudt) or in Brooklyn…

3 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Diversion of Classic

The Korean designer Juun.J presented a 3D collection with a street tailoring consisting of classic sartorial references, Asian roots, futuristic volume, military influences. ‘Diversion of Classic’, he calls it, which is a deconstruction in detail to create something totally new, starting with the techno, biker, aviator and robotic innovative silhouettes. Superheroes who come from the future, very chic humanoid drones. Juun.J, designer coreano, presenta una collezione in 3D, uno street tailoring composto di citazioni classiche sartoriali, radici asiatiche, volumi futuristici e influenze militari. ‘Diversion of Classic’, la chiama lui, ovvero una decostruzione nei dettagli per ricreare qualcosa di totalmente nuovo, a cominciare dalle innovative silhouette tecno biker, aviator e robotiche. Supereroi che arrivano dal futuro, droni-umanoidi molto chic.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Industrial Tailoring

To start the new stylistic adventure, Federico Curradi draws his ideal wardrobe to represent contemporary fashion. Garments with strong identity, a mixture of pure craftsmanship and industrial design, transversal total looks between tailoring and the world of sportswear because modern men are also very active. A strong mark, yes, but also neutral, to clothe the personality of the wearer. Per cominciare la nuova avventura stilistica, Federico Curradi disegna il suo guardaroba ideale a rappresentare la moda contemporanea. Capi dalla forte identità, un misto di artigianalità pura e industrial design, total look trasversali fra sartorialità e mondo sportivo, perché l’uomo moderno è anche molto attivo. Impronta decisa vero, ma anche neutralità, per poter vestire la personalità di chi li indossa.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

CIVIDINI

After 10 years focused exclusively on womenswear, the Cividini fashion house is back on the market with a men’s collection that perfectly expresses the well-defined style codes, which also have a strong personality, of the brand. Made of the finest materials and with artisanal workmanship and care, the Cividini men’s wardrobe is unstructured luxury with a sophisticated tailored concept rigorously Made in Italy. The brand worked on some men’s key garments like the jacket, the shirt, the pea coat, the blouson, the tie, the duffel coat, the sneakers, characterising them with its modern minimalist style, and avoided any temptation to compromise in the name of a passion for quality. Dopo 10 anni di sospensione per lasciare posto al womenswear, la maison Cividini torna sul mercato con una collezione uomo in…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

KNIT BRARY

The new collection by Spanish brand Knit Brary is characterised by a kind of nostalgic luxury that celebrates the humility and modesty of true craftsmanship and of its relics. An austere simplicity is clearly perceived while very atmospheric organic colours give strength and emotion to the garments. Softly eroded landscapes and sensual tactility. Specialised in knitwear, the brand always gives priority to quality by using superior natural materials in the name of a simplicity that has an authentic appeal. The creative team travels the world to select the best and purer fibres for the production of really unique pieces. La nuova collezione del brand spagnolo Knit Brary è caratterizzata da una sorta di lusso nostalgico che celebra l’umiltà e la modestia dell’autentico artigianato e delle sue reliquie. Si avverte una…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

LUCIO VANOTTI

Introspection, rationalism and a kind of purifying melancholy are the characteristics of the Lucio Vanotti style. Inspiration comes from the military world, built with functionality, rigour and a certain roughness. Horizontal steps and split levels on archetypal silhouettes as well as tailored suits that appear simplified and made lighter. The look is completed by pinstripes, pyjamas and dressing gowns. Military blankets are transformed into tunics embellished with typical Nordic motifs. Loose volumes and quilted patterns. The materials are wool, herringbone, dry fabrics, gauzy cottons, fleece with a martial colour palette. Introspezione, razionalismo e una sorta di malinconia purificatrice sono le caratteristiche dello stile di Lucio Vanotti. Ispirazioni che vengono dal mondo militare, realizzate con funzionalità, rigore e una certa crudezza. Troviamo righe orizzontali, piani sfalsati su silhouette archetipiche, e ancora…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

PATRIZIA PEPE UOMO

To present the Autumn/Winter 2016 men’s collection, Patrizia Pepe choose Fortezza da Basso during Pitti Immagine Uomo, therefore recognising the Florence event as the ideal stage for the development plans of its men’s fashion division. The style of the Patrizia Pepe menswear takes inspiration from music, sport and the world of motors, translating the values of refinement and of a perfect slim fit into a wardrobe with elegant clean lines that reinterpret classic styles in an up to date contemporary key. A modern refined collection, perfect for modern men who want to have the right look at any time of day and for every occasion. Patrizia Pepe ha scelto la Fortezza da Basso di Firenze per presentare la sua nuova collezione uomo autunno-inverno 2016, riconoscendo nella kermesse di Pitti Immagine…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

THE SARTORIALIST FOR ROY ROGER’S

Roy Roger’s, the brand by the Florence-based Manifatture 7 Bell SpA company, unveils The Sartorialist for Roy Roger’s, a new capsule collection created in collaboration with renowned street style photographer Scott Schuman. A complete contemporary masculine look with two main themes: historic military with safari jackets, parkas, bomber jackets and luxury denim in edgy dark key with dirty and plated finishes. Shirts, sweaters, leather garments, T-shirts, sweatshirts for the high tech urban range with heat sealed and taped details. Roy Roger’s, marchio dell’azienda fiorentina Manifatture 7 Bell Spa, edita una nuova capsule collection, ‘The Sartorialist for Roy Roger’s’, creata in collaborazione con il rinomato fotografo di streetstyle Scott Schuman, per un total look maschile contemporaneo. Due temi principali, il militare storico con sahariana, parka e bomber; il denim di lusso…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

ROMANTIC RETRÒ ATMOSPHERES

Romantic retrò atmospheres wrap the cornerstones of male elegance, placed in healthy competition between aesthetic dichotomies of tailoring and sportswear, formalwear and activewear. Excellent craftsmanship and memory, reinterpreted in introspective and poetic ways, with east/west assonance, to find a harmonious intimate inner space even in urban ‘guerrilla’ uniforms. In general, a new classical emotional mood that looks for new unconventional elegance codes without too many formal rules. Tailoring all around, even in the world of sports and mountainwear. Comfort and ease of use, technology, layering, even vertical silhouettes are enveloping and softened, are all satisfied as per the the task of creative designers, and artistic collaborations, who reinterpret modern dressing into an authentic but also daring art of adornment for practical ‘dandies’ in tune with the times. Colours and patterns…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Dark Riders

Start the engine and speed away on two wheels. The collection offers a healthy competition between fashion’s aesthetic dichotomies: tailoring and sportswear, formalwear and racing activewear. Very determined, fearless men, covered in leather garments cross-pollinated with natural yarns and a wealth of angora and cashmere. Jackets, biker pants, boots close to the body are pampered by wide capes and fur coats. The colours are metaphors of the racing world: black, red, blue and reflective greys. Accendere il motore e sfrecciare veloce su due ruote. La collezione mette in sana competizione dicotomie estetiche della moda, sartoriale e sportivo, formale e abbigliamento active da gara. Un uomo molto deciso, intrepido, ricoperto di capi in pelle statuari contaminati da filati naturali, ricchezze d’angora e cashmere. Giubbotti, biker pant, stivali, aderenti al corpo, coccolati…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Cocooning elegance

On the catwalk, the flow of one or two models is like a full, silent river as the looks follow one another enveloped in classic elegance, perfect in every detail, meticulous yet relaxed and enjoyable. Generous varied proposals consistently compose a coherent wardrobe and inevitable items like the pinstripe and herringbone suits, the long coats, the knitted outerwear flow with unparalleled clarity and sincerity. Without shadows, in the full: this is Giorgio Armani. Le uscite moda in passerella, a coppie o singole, scorrono come un fiume corposo, silente, si susseguono e avvolgono d’eleganza classica, curata in ogni dettaglio, precisa ma rilassata e da gustare. Generose proposte variegate, composte in una coerenza di guardaroba e pezzi immancabili come gessati e spigati, cappotti lunghi, capospalla di maglieria. Fluiscono con una chiarezza e…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Neo Romantic Uniforms

Truly experienced in contemporary fashion, Alessandro Dell’Acqua expertly blends the codes of an unconventional elegance. Metropolitan uniforms for masculine and ‘no gender’ total looks, assembled with nonchalance and apparent casualness. Comfort and ease of use for parkas, anoraks, jackets, smart jumpers. And fashion flickers like the longer shirts, the softer creased pants, the trimmings, the velvets for practical ‘dandies’. Alessandro Dell’Acqua maturo della sua esperienza nel gusto del vestire contemporaneo, mischia sapientemente i codici di una eleganza non convenzionale. Divise metropolitane per total look maschili e ‘no gender’, assemblati con nonchalance e apparente distrazione. Comodità e fruibilità, ecco parka, anorak, giubbotti, pull intelligenti. E i guizzi modaioli, la camicia allungata, il pantalone morbido e stropicciato, le passamanerie e i velluti del concreto ‘dandy’.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Bohemian Cowboy

Massimiliano Giornetti travels between east/west similarities and between city life methodologies and noble moments of country gentlemen, capturing and translates them into a new bohemian taste for style “hunters’. The classic wardrobe becomes more assertive, compact, gains verticality, loves contrasts, and thus character. Graphic patterns blend over tops and shirts to provide a romantic unconventional touch. Massimiliano Giornetti viaggia fra assonanze oriente/occidente, metodologie di vita cittadina e istanti nobili del gentiluomo di campagna, li coglie e traduce in un gusto bohemien per neo ‘cowboy’ metropolitani. Il guardaroba classico si fa più deciso, compatto, acquista in verticalità, ama i contrasti e dunque il carattere. Mentre le grafiche sfumano su maglie e camicie per dare quel tocco romantico e non convenzionale.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

ICEBERG

JAMES LONG FIRST COLLECTION The first collection by the London designer James Long is an instant re-reading of Iceberg style codes. Light bomber jackets and soft technical trousers with satin and canvas inserts and colourful elasticated bands. Fitted jackets with knitwear appliqués or sheepskin details on the neck. Sweater and maxi cardigan ribbed knitwear with colour block pop graphics and Mickey Mouse prints. Outerwear with military details and urban/sport accessories including rubberised leather backpacks and belts as well as scuba-inspired sneakers with a new triangular logo. Prima collezione realizzata dal designer londinese James Long e immediata rilettura dei codici di Iceberg. Bomber leggeri e morbidi panta tecnici, con inserti di satin e canvas ed elastici colorati. Giacche fitted con applicazioni in maglieria o montone di pecora sul collo. La maglieria…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

TOD’S

TOD’S BAND The Tod’s band collects style stories of the protagonists of contemporary, independent individuals who share the same attitude towards good taste and attention to detail. With an artisanal matrix, appreciating classic styles as they were done in the past as a distinctive sign of Italian style and iconic know-how. As an example, the jacket and the leather down jacket, lived in and super soft, and the ‘leo clamp’ moccasins in new colours. The perfectly constructed suits to wear with nonchalance by who knows how to choose designs with tradition and of high quality. The Tod’s band raccoglie le storie di stile dei protagonisti della contemporaneità, indipendenti e individuali ma accomunati dalla stessa attitudine di buon gusto e attenzione ai dettagli. Di matrici artigianale, apprezzando il classico come si…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

A NEW ORDER by Peppe Orrù - ph. Viero/Zanoni Like a insatiable beast, fashion thrives on the new in order to exist: this applies not just to design and content but also to communication and fruition. More than ever, London Collections: Men moved in with, if not ahead of, the times. A statement undeniably exemplified during the latest edition by very high levels of creativity and originality which were perfectly matched to equally high levels of innovation and modernisation in shaping not just what we are going to wear next season but also how we experience and enjoy fashion right now and in the immediate future. Welcome to London Collections: Men brave new world and the very first live streaming on Apple TV of the Burberry catwalk show and of…

3 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Nostalgic Armors

Rei Kawakubo faces and pits ancestral civilizations against contemporaneity in a sartorial construction of the suit where, from shoulder to sleeve, different fabrics are joint, contrast, stratify, brocades and silks with many prints that, with their nostalgic patchworks, make us think of samurais’ armours. Military details combined with studs and garlands of flowers are interpreted as a simple ornamental leitmotif. A XXI century warrior wearing an articulated suit with a masculine, urban and oneof-a-kinds DNA. Rei Kawakubo affronta e mette a confronto mondi ancestrali e contemporaneità in una costruzione sartoriale dell’abito dove, dalla spalla alla manica, si uniscono, si contrastano, si stratificano tessuti diversi, broccati e sete dalle svariate stampe, che con il loro nostalgico patchwork, riportano la mente ad armature Samurai. Dettagli militari abbinati a borchie e ghirlande di…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Urban Cowboy

Having definitely abandoned religious iconography, Riccardo Tisci takes a trip to America, taking inspiration from and reworking the image of the Wild West man in a sophisticated, contemporary, even sexy way. Obviously, the result is an Urban Cowboy who dresses referring to the past remaining true to current codes of tailoring, elegance, street attitude. Statement shoulders for jackets. Lapels and collars enriched with statement copper-coloured studs and bright stones. Coats and trench coats, as well as plaid fabrics and pinstripes, reminiscent of Marlboro Man adverts. The season’s motifs are a cobra that aggressively appears on jackets and sweaters and the new allover logo, redesigned by Tisci for the Maison. Abbandonata definitivamente l’iconografia religiosa, Riccardo Tisci intraprende un viaggio tutto americano, ispirandosi e rielaborando la figura dell’uomo del Far West, versione…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Seventies Bohemians

Lanvin man’s silhouette is fluid, made of shirts and outerwear, coats and trenchcoats to be worn unfastened; under jackets and sheepskins low-necked t-shirts show and, between jacket and shirt, fishnet garments appear. The quest for imperfection lets half-view creased garments, frayed knits, leathers and calf hair patchworks. Micro prints and “tye and dye” effect, large and long trousers covering sneakers that, like some jackets, bear a hint of sprayed lively colours, recreating the nonchalant and charismatic, a little bit 60’s image of a romantic, seducing and bohemian man. La silhouette dell’uomo Lanvin è fluida, costituita da camicie e capispalla, cappotti e impermeabili che si indossano sbottonati; sotto giacche e montoni si vedono T-shirt scollate e tra giacca e camicia appaiono capi in rete. La ricerca dell’imperfezione lascia intravedere capi sgualciti,…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Oversized

Modern, young, fashionable: Raf Simons remains true and faithful to his beliefs and to his very own vision of fashion. For next season he created yet another brilliant, poetic, contemporary collection. 1970’s references in the V-neck sweaters with university letters, the American college varsity jackets and the down jackets, all strictly oversize. The wool knitwear, which plays an important role in the collection, is characterised by worn out and threadbare vintage effect finishes. The result is tailoring marked by strong sport cross-pollinations, which is the trademark of the brand. Moderno, giovane, fashion: Raf Simons non si smentisce, fedele al proprio credo e alla propria visione della moda, compone per il prossimo inverno un’altra collezione geniale, poetica e contemporanea allo stesso tempo. Riferimenti agli anni ’70, nei maglioni scollo a V…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Into the Wild

“On the road”, the idea of a trip, existentialism, an adventure inside themselves, is the inspiration of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s who nowadays do not look in a single direction anymore, but rather venture, through multiple iconographies, exploring and suggesting, into a vast aesthetics research. An explosive wardrobe which bases are classic and casual garments. The use of diverse matters, denim, leather, sheepskin, printed fabrics, needled wools, patchwork which have been added studs and emboideries, tracking this new cosmopolitan man’s story. “On the road”, l’idea di un viaggio, l’esistenzialismo, un’avventura all’interno di se stessi, è l’ispirazione per Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pierpaolo Piccioli che oggi non guarda più verso una sola direzione ma che, attraverso molteplici iconografie, si evolve ampliando la ricerca estetica. Un guardaroba esplosivo, composto alla…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

COLLEZIONI TRADE FAIRS/FIERE SPECIALIZATE TRADE FAIRS/FIERE SPECIALIZATE

Our magazines are present at all the sector’s main trade fairs, with attention to all qualitatively interesting new proposals on the trade fair scene Apparel Textile Salon - Moscow Aymod - Istanbul Aysaf - Istanbul Bfc London Collection: Men Bright - Berlin Bubble - London Cersaie - Bologna Chic / Chic Young Blood - Shanghai Ciff - Copenhagen Ciff Kids - Copenhagen Comocrea - Cernobbio (Como) Couture Fashion Week - NY Cpm - Moscow Denim By Premiere Vision - Barcelona Dg Expo - NY Dot to Dot - London Expo Riva Schuh - Riva Del Garda Fashion House - Duesseldorf Fashionist - Istanbul Filo - Milano Fimi - Madrid Futurmoda - Alicante Idf - Istanbul Leather Fair If Wedding Fashion - Izmir Imf - Istanbul Fashion Fair International Textile Fair…

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Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

ADDRESSES

a. testoni www.testoni.com add www.adddown.it adidas www.adidas.com agi & sam www.agiandsam.com alberto gmbh & co. kg www.alberto-pants.com alberto guardiani www.albertoguardiani.com andjel shoes www.andjel-shoes.com andrea incontri www.andreaincontri.com alexander mcqueen www.alexandermcqueen.com ami alexandre mattiussi www.amiparis.fr andrew crews www.andrewcrews.com ann demeulemeester www.anndemeulemeester.be anna osmuskina fashion house www.osmushkina.com antonio marras www.antoniomarras.it atelier crearte www.atelier-crearte.it avant toi www.avant-toi.it bally www.bally.com balmain homme www.balmain.com barbara i gongini www.barbaraigongini.dk belsire www.belsire.com berluti www.berluti.com bertoni 1949 www.bertonivaligeria.it berwich www.berwich.com billy reid www.billyreid.com boris bidjan saberi www.borisbidjiansaberi.com bottega veneta www.bottegaveneta.com boulezar gmbh www.boulezar.com bresciani www.bresciani.it brioni www.brioni.com brunello cucinelli www.brunellocucinelli.com bruno bordese www.brunobordese.com burberry prorsum www.burberry.com cadet www.cadetusa.com calvin klein collection www.calvinklein.com campomaggi www.fcampomaggi.it canali www.canali.it cappelletti www.cappelletti.it carlo pignatelli www.carlopignatelli.com car shoe www.carshoe.com carven www.carven.com caruso www.carusomenswear.com casely hayford www.casely-hayford.com christian dada www.christiandada.jp christian pellizzari www.christianpellizzari.it christopher kane…

5 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

PURE ESENCE

Active in the menswear segment since 1922, the German brands collection for the upcoming cold season was inspired by the idea of a “return to essence”. A kind of purism focused on firm product choice with many references to the style in vogue in the 1970’s, a fashion that in those years often drew inspiration from the purity of the Bauhaus movement era when silhouettes and colours were used deliberately to accentuate some aspects rather than others. Roy Robson took inspiration from the architecture, interior design, clean colour schemes of the 1970’s, reliving the natural feeling of that decade. The surfaces of the fabrics and the knitwear are still modelled in specific looks through materials, prints, embroideries, three-dimensional textile patterns. In perfect balance between casual and business, the collection includes…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

SPORT DE LUXE

“Boulezar stands for the most refined luxury casual wear of an understated, contemporary style in men’s and women’s fashion. That luxury is created through the use of exclusive fabrics, a sophisticated design and the applied craft of tailoring that realises the creations in their highest form. In order to best combine material, art and craftsmanship with the industrial and ethical requirements that ought to be demanded of a luxury product these days, our collections are exclusively Handmade in Germany. By harmoniously balancing material, function, construction and proportion, we strive for “the synthesis of the arts” with each collection and each piece. This philosophy finds its origin in the Bauhaus-Movement – the inspirational source for Boulezar’s eighth collection. The design thereby picks up different visual and conceptual elements of Bauhaus and…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

THE ESENCE OF DECONSTRUCTION

www.barbaraigongini.dk We witness a unique connection between surface and sartorial backbone in the Autumn/Winter 2016 collection by Barbara I Gongini. The garments are just perfect as a dynamic shield that protects from the outside cold. Multifunctional, agile and rich in style, they oscillate between the masculine and the feminine. The collection cross-references classic workwear, yesteryear tailoring and contemporary urbanwear, all framed by the signature Barbara I Gongini style. The multifaceted silhouette invites the wearer to upscale or downscale the fit thanks to versatile zips, ribbon fastenings, casual pockets, detachable panelling. Maintained from the colour point of view in sober overall tones of black and white, the garments are also characterised by intricate details such as hand-washed sections, innovative coatings, hand knitted textures. A collection that deliberately goes back to the…

6 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

COMFORTABLE E UNIQUE PANTS MADE IN ITALY SINCE 1975

The Autumn/Winter 2016 men’s collection by Berwich pays homage to natural fibres, processed with 100% Made in Italy craftsmanship in the textile area of Martina Franca, an important pole of the textile and clothing industry. An important role for washed and natural stretch wool for tailored trousers with an excellent fit. Innovation and harmony in the design and manufacturing stage for elegant contemporary trousers, refined in all details including front pleats, suspender buttons, adjustable belts, original inside elements and linings, maximum comfort pockets. In a perfect blend of fit and texture, the seasonal proposals by Berwich include a regimental trousers in English triple twisted fabric with turn ups, comfortable corduroy 250 with noticeable ribs, a retro check pattern in bouclé washed wool with adjustable belt. Texture effects and calibrated shadows…

2 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Urban Dandy

Nordic folklore cross-pollinated with iconic military tailoring, workmen uniforms, 1940’s inspired elegant fabrics. An Irish charm for global travellers brings into the wardrobe cashmere-trimmed parkas, deconstructed jackets, camouflage velvets, lightweight sweaters, jumpers as an alternative to outerwear. Once again, a relaxed fit for the trousers with drawstrings, tuxedo bands, pleats, big pockets. Folklore nordico contaminato dalla iconica sartorialità militare, da divise worker e tessuti eleganti d’ispirazione anni ’40. Fascino irlandese, viaggiatore del mondo, porta nel guardaroba parka rifinito in cashmere, giacche destrutturate, velluti camouflage, maglie dai pesi leggeri o alternative alla giubbotteria. Nei pantaloni prosegue la vestibilità relax, con coulisse e banda smoking, pences e tasconi.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Motifs and Colours

Four emerging African designers and as many facets of fashion. AKJP by Keith Henning & Jody Paulsen from South Africa have a unisex mark with colour blocks and graphic motifs. Ikiré Jones by Wale Oyéjidé from USA and Nigeria presents tailored clothes brightened up by prints and colours. Lukhanyo Mdingi and Nicholas Coutts from South Africa showcase minimal sophisticated pieces focused on material experimentation. Last but not least, U.Mi-1 by Gozi Ochonogor from Nigeria and UK is an architectural deluxe menswear powered by syncretism. Quattro designer africani emergenti e altrettante sfaccettature della moda di questo continente. AKJP di Keith Henning & Jody Paulsen ( Sud Africa) hanno una impronta unisex in color block e motivi grafici; Ikiré Jones di Walé Oyéjidé (Usa & Nigeria) propongono capi sartoriali vivacizzati da stampe…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

D’AVENZA - LAMBORGHINI AUTO

New apparel and accessories collections for the Automobile Lamborghini brand: tailored suits in collaboration with d’Avenza, sneakers by Mizuno, carbon fibre luxury luggage goods by TecknoMonster. Manufacturing excellence by d’Avenza for jackets in refined fabrics, cut and assembled by hand by skilled craftsmen tailors with unique details and customisable necklines, buttonholes, buttons. Thanks to the ‘Ad Personam’ luxury service, a master tailor personally measures and develops the jackets and suits jacket wherever it is more convenient for the Automobili Lamborghini customer. Nuove linee d’abbigliamento e accessori dedicate al marchio Automobili Lamborghini: abiti sartoriali in collaborazione con d’Avenza, sneakers con Mizuno, alta valigeria in fibra di carbonio con TecknoMonster. Eccellenza manifatturiera per giacche di d’Avenza in tessuti pregiati, con tagli eseguiti a mano e unicità dei dettagli. Create dalle abili mani…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

LES BENJAMINS

Oriental iconography and silhouettes create irreverent architectures with neoclassical tailoring and a rebellious new punk style. The psychedelic collection named ‘Ottoman Punk’ echoes a musical and streetwear linear yet irreverent streetwear culture, eclectic in terms of shapes and colours. The designer Bunyamin Aydin mixes Turkish traditional costumes, tapestries and esotericism into a sporty, hybrid, rebellious urban style. Oversize tops with sharp cuts and longer T-Shirts, satin blousons, bomber jacket kaftan hybrids, camouflage fleece trousers. Iconografie e silhouette orientali formano architetture irriverenti con la sartoria neoclassica e un ribelle neo punk style. L’insieme psicadelico della collezione nominata ‘Ottoman Punk’ echeggia una cultura musicale e streetwear irriverente eppur lineare, eclettica nelle forme e nei colori. Lo stilista Bunyamin Aydin mescola costume turco, arazzi ed esoterismo in uno stile urbano sportivo ibrido e…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

MAISON MICHEL

Now that Maison Michel has reached a turning point, the brand remains faithful to the sharp eye of Karl Lagerfeld as a photographer. The brand new creative director Priscilla Royer re-evaluates the headwear in a pragmatic and holistic way. Thanks to this new approach, the Maison offers us a cast of strong characters who enter the scene wearing headpieces incorporating the authentic values that appeal to Priscilla: a constant search for innovation, historical and alternative references, wearability. Lagerfeld gives to the brand a sublimated reality that reflects the sensibility of the American actress Jemima Kirke, the new face of Maison Michel. Maison Michel rimane fedele all’occhio tagliente del Karl Lagerfeld fotografo ora che il brand è giunto a un punto di svolta. La nuova direttrice creativa fresca di nomina, Priscilla…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

PIERMAU

Zero is the starting point, the end and the beginning, the neutrality that contains the whole. Pierfrancesco Gigliotti and Maurizio Modica start from zero with PierMau, a collection that blends together their names and their essence. Zero as the epitome of regeneration and resurrection that results in a clean, neat, straightforward, complete, substantial range that, like conceptual art, expresses profound content with a few strokes. A close link between contemporary art and the garments during the presentation, a true art exhibition in which the artist Mustafa Sabbagh created a dialogue with PierMau formalising the interaction with seven videos that transported the viewer in the middle of a distorted symphony. Lo zero è il punto di partenza, la fine e l’inizio,la neutralità che contiene il tutto. Pierfrancesco Gigliotti e Maurizio Modica…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

STILOSOPHY INDUSTRY

Founded in Bologna in 2012 by Riccardo Forcione, the young brand offers numerous seasonal capsule collections to create entire total looks for a quick delivery on the market. Deconstructed coats and jackets, symbol of an informal metropolitan elegance, to mix with sweatshirts and casual pieces suitable for a dynamic lifestyle. A versatile wardrobe with all the ‘right vibes’ to make the wearer feel at ease in very occasion. Stilosophy Industry is committed to translate masculine elegance into products usable by everyone and with an almost familiar style that will warm up the upcoming winter season. Brand giovane, fondato a Bologna nel 2012 da Riccardo Forcione, ricco di più uscite moda stagionali per formare interi total look a consegna rapida sul mercato. Capospalla e giacche destrutturate, simbolo di una eleganza informale…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Country Gentleman

An elegant and elongated silhouette with the rough and masculine allure of a country gentleman. Tomas Maier combines determined and extremely precise tailored proportions with the warmth of enveloping full-bodied fabrics and materials such as wool, cashmere as well as leather and crocodile, at times doubled in sophisticated constructions. All reinterpreted in an urban key with smooth relaxed fit for a 24/7 lifestyle. Silhouette allungata, elegante, con l’allure ruvido e mascolino del gentiluomo di campagna. Tomas Maier abbina proporzioni sartoriali decise ed estremamente precise, il calore di tessuti e materiali (di lana, cashmere, ma anche pelle e coccodrillo), avvolgenti e corposi, doppiati con costruzioni sofisticate. Il tutto riletto in chiave metropolitana, con vestibilità fluide e rilassate da poter accompagnare lo stile di vita sulle ventiquattrore.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Japanese Couture 3.0

To find a spiritual harmonic space in everyday urban ‘guerrilla’, to condense its essence and make it creative when designing a man’s wardrobe. Dean and Dan Caten looked back to the East and to Japan and showed respectful elegant tailored Samurai adding active, sport and punk details. Judo and karate uniforms inspired the coats, the wide trousers, the kilts. Bomber jackets, parkas, multi-functional backpacks, warrior boots. Trovare quello spazio armonico spirituale nella ‘guerrilla’ quotidiana cittadina, condensarne l’essenza e renderlo creativo nel confezionare un guardaroba maschile. Dean e Dan Caten hanno volto lo sguardo a Oriente, in Giappone, sfilando rispettosi Samurai eleganti e sartoriali, con l’aggiunta di dettagli active, sportivi o punkeggianti. Divise judoka e karateka ispirano capospalla, pantaloni ampi e kilt plissettati. Bomber, parka, zaini multifunzionali e stivaletti guerrieri.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Neo Vintage

Future and past come back in the present, between memory and heritage, introspectively and poetically revisited, to propose emotional new classics that reveal today the unexpressed possibilities of yesterday. A creative anarchist game to access new meanings with consolidated or unusual garments, from suits with patchwork patterns, oriental jackets, kimono overcoats, palazzo and flared pants, fur coats, single and double breasted coats. Futuro e passato riprendono qui, nel presente, fra memoria ed heritage, rivisti in modo introspettivo e poetico, per proporre un neo classico emozionale che racconta, oggi, possibilità inespresse di ieri. Un gioco anarchico creativo per accedere a nuovi significati con pezzi consolidati o insoliti, dagli abiti con fantasie patchwotk, giacche orientali e soprabiti kimono, pantaloni palazzo e scampanati, pellicce, e il cappotto, mono e doppio petto.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Sporty Seventies

Athletic tailored clothing without formality or constraint, edited on modern, dynamic British silhouettes. The world of sportswear and mountaineering, developed with the codes of elegance, transforms car coats, pea coats, anoraks, bomber jackets, biker jackets into urban cornerstones. Knitwear and trousers proportion legs and torso with emphasis on the waistline. Practicality, technology, classic know-how, 1970’s layers and colours. Abiti sartoriali atletici senza un senso di formalità o costrizione, editati su silhouette british moderne e dinamiche. Il mondo dello sportswear e della montagna declinati coi i codici dell’eleganza trasformano car e pea coat, anorak, bomber e biker jacket in capisaldi metropolitani. Maglieria e pantaloni proporzionano gambe, busto, con enfasi sul punto vita. Praticità, tecnologia, savoir faire classico, layering e colori anni Settanta.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

ANDREA INCONTRI

UTILITY URBAN MOBILITY Practicality and design are strongholds that go behind seasons. Andrea Incontri reinterprets tailored outerwear re-edited in super lightweight cross-transversal loden, chevron, soft leather, velvet, flannel. Knitwear, quilted shirts, technical ponchos, bomber jackets, parkas, relaxed trousers are integrated into a wardrobe in dark colours brightened up by energetic greens and pinks. Utility backpacks and accessories in waterproof nubuck, with clean rigorous shapes, the result of a subtraction that adds emphasis to the overall look, give the sophisticated vision of a metropolitan man always on the move. Praticità e design, caposaldi progettuali oltre l’usufrutto in stagionalità. Andrea Incontri reinterpreta la sartorialità del capospalla, rieditato in panno di loden, chevron, nappa, velluto e flanella, superleggeri e trasversali. Maglieria e camicie trapuntate, poncho tecnico, bomber, parka, pantaloni rilassati, integrano un guardaroba…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

AMERICAN MOUNTAIN CHIC The Ralph Lauren Purple Label Collection offers a creative dynamic wardrobe with a clear American ‘mountain chic’ matrix. Snowy slopes and chalets at evening time to be replicated in the city looks of overseas gentlemen. Soft, enveloping, comfortable silhouettes made of thick refined materials or precious leathers with a touch of ‘wilderness’. Sharp cuts for tuxedos and jackets, even in damask patterns or sensual velvets. The leitmotif is the harmonious meeting between formal luxury and sportswear with the addition of techno details. To wear on the slopes with branded skis and snow-wear accessories. Ralph Lauren Purple Label Collection presenta un guardaroba creativo e dinamico di chiara matrice americana ‘mountain chic’. Piste innevate, chalet di sera, da replicare nei look cittadini di questo gentiluomo d’oltreoceano. Silhouette morbide, avvolgenti…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

TRUSSARDI

BUSKERS, STREET ARTISTS Musicians and street performers, free in what they wear and in spirit, perfectly reflect art and personality. 1970’s Brit-rock to revolutionise classic tailoring as Gaia Tussardi writes her own music with tartan, classic men’s motifs, velvet, tweed, ribbed materials, tie patterns used on vests and shirts. Everything matched to new colour shades of warm brown, grey, blue, ocher, terracotta. Unisex accessories, backpacks and bucket bags,matched with chelsea boots. Musicisti e artisti di strada, liberi nel vestire e nello spirito che rispecchiano perfettamente arte e personalità. Rock-brit degli anni Settanta per rivoluzionare il classico sartoriale, Gaia Tussardi scrive la propria musica con brani tartan, fantasie del classico maschile, velluti, tweed, coste, disegni cravatteria, ripresi anche su panciotti e camicie. Tutto accostato in neo sonorità colorate di marroni caldi,…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

NEW YORK ON THE RISE: NYFW by Giorgio Ammirabile and Barbara Tassara After the summer debut in 2015, here comes the second edition of the New York Men’s Fashion Week, intended as a tail event after London, Florence, Milan and Paris within the men’s fashion international calendar. About 60 fashion shows and presentations in various locations around the city for the four-day event organised by the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) that saw emerging designers and iconic brands present their Autumn/Winter 2016 collections in a context where the attention of the buyers and of about 800 national and international journalists was focused on men’s fashion rather than be in the shadow of the womenswear shows as in the last 10 years. Among the most representative designers, Ralph Lauren,…

2 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Military Decor

Richness and opulence displayed in a casual/military inspired wardrobe. Thus Dries Van Noten man flaunts and wears garments realised in strictly masculine traditional fabrics presented in a dark palette featuring shades of green, kaki, brown, blue and black combined to sought-after brocades, jacquards, velvets, printed silks and fur. Outerwear, suits, trench-coats, pants, everything with a baroque aftertaste, bearing crests, blazons and rich embroideries realised in gold thread or tricolour ribbon. A man with an inequivocal Royal posture, military as well as romantic. Ricchezza e opulenza spiegate in un guardaroba di ispirazione casual/militare. Così l’uomo Dries Van Noten sfoggia e indossa capi realizzati in tessuti tradizionali rigorosamente maschili presentati in una tavolozza di colori scuri composta da verdi, kaki, marroni, blu e nero abbinati a ricercati broccati, jacquard, velluti, sete stampate…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Rock’n’Roll Dandy

Like in a mirror, Haider Ackermann’s man seems a faithful self-portrait of the designer’s himself. A constant dialectics expressed in an impeccable, chic wardrobe where black and dark, yet bright shades prevail. A silhouette rich in adorned garments awarding velvets, fabrics with lurex, gold, silver or bronze threads woven, brocades, jacquard, reptile or patent leather. Micro printed silk for the foulards and geometrical patterns, b/w optical display on sockets, shoes and ankle-boots. This season look loses its romanticism but achieves power and character, a dandy rock’n’roll man. Come in uno specchio, l’uomo Haider Ackermann risulta un fedele autoritratto del designer stesso. Una dialettica costante espressa in un guardaroba impeccabile, chic, dove prevalgono il nero e i colori scuri ma luminosi. Una silhouette ricca di capi decorati che premia velluti, tessuti…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Luxury Traveller

According to Kim Jones, Louis Vuitton man is an ageless luxorious traveller. The inspiration, for this season, looks at the brand’s genuine story, at least 162 years in archives and a Parisian elegance. This collection title, “Future Heritage”, is the image of a man with a bon-ton and yet contemporary style. An old logo has been brushed up and puched on garments and accessories, graphic prints and handwriting are used as well. The waist is emphasized by belts, while jewels, medallions like an old LV coin, silk scarves and hat highlight an aristocratic elegance. Per Kim Jones l’uomo Louis Vuitton è un eterno, lussuoso viaggiatore. L’ispirazione, per questa stagione guarda alla vera storia del marchio, ben 162 anni di archivi e un’eleganza tutta parigina. “Future Heritage” è il titolo di…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Cosmopolitan Attitude

LIIFE with a double I, a play of decodification making us think about the role of Ego in our own lives. A way to introduce this collection which, as usual, features garments built in a unique and surprising manner. The never seen before interpreted in a concoction of fabrics’, technical tretments and shapes winding until the creation of hybrids. Jackets/sweaters, double layers in contrasting materials and colours. One single print almost obsessively repeated reminds of a bandana becoming a geometrical game. Stratifications reveal themselves being smart and produce a trompe l’oeil effect in energetic colours and shapes, a cosmopolitan man’s wardrobe. LIIFE con due I, un gioco di decodificazione che ci fa pensare al ruolo dell’Ego nelle nostre vite. Un modo di presentare questa collezione che, come di consueto, presenta…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Contemporary Tribes

Van Beirendonck, with his transgressive and progressive flair, always presents, beside his work, a social criticism shrouded in an imaginary ludic world. WO, that translated in Flemish means ferocious, has been the raging message denouncing the terrorism acts nowadays in the world. This tribal, contemporary man’s wardrobe flaunting jewels adorning the head, hints an animalier print or makes it a total look; masks or totems’ images are inlayworked on jackets and coats, while it seems to prefer silk and lurex fabrics for the more cerimonial looks. Van Beirendonck, con la sua vena trasgressiva e visionaria, presenta una collezione con un messaggio intrinseco, una critica sociale avvolta in un immaginario mondo ludico. WO, che tradotto in fiammingo significa feroce, è stato il messaggio di rabbia a denuncia degli atti di terrorismo…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

HEARING COLORS

The most important works of last years are about coming to a sort of realization. Seeing this awareness in the collection is not enough. After a very important moment of stepping back and conceptualize, the brand finds a moment of clarity and another identity. Neil Harbisson is one who hears the vibrations in color well, as a sensor that sees special tonnage of life. Every color has its own vibrations, frequencies and he has the ability to hear and feel color. This idea is one of the guiding lights of inspiration for the new season. CLIMBER B.C calls us to feel our own colors, our own frequency: the vibrations of black, wistful sentiments of purple, the various shades of yellow. And so each item becomes iconic, individual, optimist. “Smart Business”…

2 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

CONTEMPORARY TIMELESS SHOES

Traditional manufacturing and accurateness in the details and in each step of the production to ensure a high quality comfortable fit. The classic but relaxed style by Schuhe & Handwerk München is recognisable for current designs, colours and precious materials such as crocodile and exotic leathers. Bold on one hand and solid and functional on the other, the styles devised by Vladimir Andjelkovic for Autumn/Winter 2016 range from business style elegant shoes to colourful printed Chelsea boots, Desert boots, solid and indestructible Worker boots. With the same attention to detail and finishes for contemporary luxury products, bags and belts complete the gentleman footwear collection. Manifattura tradizionale, accurata nei dettagli e passaggi in manovia, per assicurare una calzata confortevole e di alta qualità. Lo stile classico ma rilassato di Schuhe &…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

FASHION IN PROGRESS

TRANOÏ Femme was established in Paris in 1992 and is rapidly considered one of the most important sector fairs. In 2005 TRANOÏ Homme was born, quickly conquering, even it, its international importance and excellence on the French territory. Occurring four times a year, in conjunction with the fashion weeks, the various sections are today evenly distributed amongst several prestigious locations and overstepped the concept of a single sector show. In 2013, in fact, TRANOÏ Homme’s been added TRANOÏ Preview, a new showcase devoted to women’s pre-collections, a new very Parisian commercial marketplace allowing firms to expose their products four times a year. Yet TRANOÏ’s evolution doesn’t stop unravelling and proposing new visions, thanks to its founder Armand Hadida who, exported the concept even in New York and always paying attention…

4 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

URBAN COUNTRYMAN

PH. LUCIANO & GIANLUCA PERGREFFI STYLE ALESSANDRO FERRARI PROTECTIVE AND PERFORMING TECHNO JACKETS TOGETHER WITH OLD STYLED KNITTED CARDIGANS AND HANDMADE SWEATERS. CLASSIC SHOES AND UTILITY BAGS BUT WITH A VINTAGE ATTITUDE.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Knitwear Couture

Knitwear couture to be worn in contemporary urban settings. Vittorio Branchizio’s strength is knitwear, spun and worked in novel ways, experimenting with advanced technology with art and design as the final signature. Versatile volumes and shapes, almost minimal, and complexity of textures and geometries create pleasant contrasts. A palette derived from the textures and nuances of the stones of the river Arno in Italy, among night, icy, pink tones of blue. Knitwear couture declinato però per essere indossato nel vivere urbano contemporaneo. Vittorio Branchizio ha il suo punto di forza nella magliera, filata e lavorata in modalità inedite, sperimentando tecnologie avanzate, arte e design come firma finale. Volumi e forme versatili, quasi minimali, complessità di trame e geometrie, creano piacevoli contrasti. Palette cromatica derivata dalle venature e sfumature delle pietre…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

The Merino Wool Show

Munsoo Kwon from South Korea, Agi & Sam from Great Britain, Jonathan Christopher from Holland, Siki Im from the United States, P.Johnson from Australia, Suketdhir from India are the designers who created capsule collections dedicated to Merino wool, the best Australian fibre. Suketdhir’s aesthetics, a Western fashion with an Indian focus with precious local fabrics and much sobriety, won the award, further emphasising the subtle game of refinement and sobriety, the importance of details, a touch of humour that the fine material can inspire. Munsoo Kwon dalla Corea del Sud, Agi & Sam dalla Gran Bretagna, Jonathan Christopher dall’Olanda, Siki Im dagli Stati Uniti, P.Johnson dall’Australia e Suketdhir dall’India sono gli stilisti che hanno creato capsule collection dedicate alla migliore fibra australiana, la lana Merino. L’estetica di Suketdhir, moda occidentale…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

DILIBORIO

Liborio Capizzi deconstructs, mixes, reinvents the metropolitan uniforms using a free syntax in an ironic menswear and womenswear key. Against the background of a rebellious punk rock matrix in strong shades of black but also with bright fluorescent and reflective colours, here are the reinvented versions of the classic trench coat, biker jacket, military and navy blousons, bomber jackets, down jackets, sweatshirts, workwear and fitness garments with technological or proper classic tailoring details for a “genderless or unisex” wardrobe. Liborio Capizzi decostruisce, mescola e reinventa le uniformi metropolitane in libera sintassi e declinabili, con ironia, in espressioni moda sia al maschile che al femminile. Sullo sfondo di una matrice punk rock ribelle, nelle forti sfumature del nero ma anche con accesi fluo e catarifrangenti, si incontrano e reinventano i classici…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

LUCA LARENZA

Strong impactful garments thanks to the flow of different colour hues, the prints with shaded tones, the istorted and amplified graphics, the animal print camouflage effects. The knitwear aesthetics plays on contrasts and threedimensional effects, fully integrated within each outfit and with a 1950’s retro flavour. A creative colour palette for the soft yarns, bouclé, shorn or longhaired wools, angora, mohair. Tailored volumes for the outerwear, like bomber jackets and coats, alongside the martial charm of uniforms, gritty rockabilly sounds, the urban rhythm of city life. Capi di carattere che impattano per flussi di colore e sfumature, stampe degradè, grafiche distorte e amplificate, effetti mimetici animalier. L’estetica delle maglie gioca su contrasti e tridimensionalità, perfettamente assorbiti nell’insieme, dal retrogusto anni Cinquanta. Tavolozza dei colori creativa su filati morbidi, bouclè, lane…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

PALTÒ

Founded in 2013 in Tuscany, Italy, Paltò re-edits the fascinating and indispensable classic coat in new variations for different generations and styles. Paltò is a ‘coat factory’ and a craft workshop of Italian elegance values, from pattern-cutting and materials to manufacturing and wefts. Thanks to the partnership with the best international mills, the ‘Archivio’ collection was created using the most renowned and exclusive materials in collaboration with, for example, Harris Tweed, Marling & Evans, Lanificio Ferla for baby alpaca, Loro Piana for camelhair. Giovane brand toscano fondato nel 2013, Paltò riedita l’affascinante e imprescindibile cappotto in nuove varianti per le diverse generazioni e stili. Paltò è una ‘fabbrica del cappotto’, officina artigiana dei valori dell’eleganza italiana, dalla modellistica ai materiali, alle lavorazioni e trame. Grazie alla collaborazione con le migliori…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

PIERRE-LOUIS MASCIA

The visual path that distinguishes the collection by Pierre-Louis Mascia for Autumn/Winter 2016 is spiritual, ethnic and polychrome. The fabric wefts by Louise Bourgeois, the black & white photographs by the Japanese artist Yuri Shibuya, the shaman spirits evoked by Martin Gusinde’s visions, the spiritual pattern of mandala rituals, the urban electro rap by singer M.I.A., the political novel and personal journey ‘Je cherche l’Italie’ by Yannick Haenel and the geometric patterns of Navarro carpets are elements and sources of inspiration that permeate the new Mascia collection who demonstrates to possess both the talents of versatility and eclecticism. Spirituale,etnico e policromo è il percorso visivo che contraddistingue la collezione di Pierre-Louis Mascia per l’autunno-inverno 2016/17. Gli intrecci in tessuto di Louise Bourgeois, la fotografia in black & white del fotografo…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

FORMALWEAR 3.0

Caruso: a pioneer of contemporary classic tailoring A trip from space to Earth, marked by stylistic rigour and by cosmic explosions generating symphonies of colours, textures, proportions. The Caruso pinstripe suits draw minimalist vertical silhouettes while the mismatched suits have shorter jackets and vests and tailored knitwear that emphasise the waist and the curvilinear trousers. Caruso, tailoring classico contemporaneo. Un viaggio spazio-terra, scandito da rigore stilistico oppure esplosioni cosmiche generatrici di sinfonie, di colore, di trame, di proporzioni. L’abito gessato di Caruso disegna la silhouette minimale e la verticalizza, mentre lo spezzato accorcia giacca-gilet e maglieria tailoring, enfatizzando pantaloni curvilinei e punto vita. Pinstripes and aristocratic details at Circle of Gentlemen The new gentlemen wear pinstripes. Beyond the boundaries of time and place, with deep blue or cool blue, grey…

6 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Space Oddity

American tailoring rich with full-bodied, vibrant fabrics and flashes of silver laminated techno/sport features. Athletic well-dressed masculinity with couture coats and parkas, sensual jumpers, urban trousers. The collection is rich with yarns, fitted volumes, multifunctional accessories. Full, block, energetic, bright colours have an intense energy, be it classic white and camel or powerful black, grey or metallic tones. Tailoring americano, ricco di tessuti corposi e vibranti incursioni laminate argentee tecno-sport. Mascolinità atletica e ben vestita con cappotti e parka sartoria, maglioni sensuali, pantaloni urbani. La collezione è ricca in filati, volumi fittati, accessori multifunzionali. Intensa anche l’energia dei colori, pieni, in blocco, energici e luminosi, siano classici bianco e cammello, il potente nero, i grigi o toni metallici.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Urban Dandy Decor

Masculine, sophisticated, contemporary Haute Couture. Stefano Pilati prepares a new art and decoration avant-garde, interpreting traditional sartorial codes as well as men’s vanity in authentic yet daring new ways. Apparel, outerwear, an entire wardrobe are offered in precious fabrics with three-dimensional decorations without too many formal rules for a casual but perfect style of dressing. Haute Couture maschile, sofisticata e contemporanea. Stefano Pilati prepara una neo avanguardia d’arte e ornamento interpretando in moda autentico ma anche audace il tradizionale codice sartoriale e le vanità maschili. Abiti, capospalla e un intero guardaroba proposti con tessuti preziosi, decori tridimensionali, senza troppe regole formali, per un vestire perfetto ma disinvolto.…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Street Formal Style

The designer Massimo Giorgetti showed on the catwalk relaxed modern urban clothes with a playful colourful and graphic accent on the knits. Tailored jackets, coats, baggy trousers encounter geometric patterns, spun and woven with artistic care into refined fabrics in the show-stealing jumpers, often worn directly on the skin. Volumes and colours echo the 1970’s: new emphasis and vigour for camel, dark green, red, old pink, rust, light blue. Massimo Giorgetti, designer del marchio, propone una sfilata di capi urbani rilassanti e moderni con un accento giocoso cromatico e grafico nella maglieria. Giacche, cappotti e pantaloni ampi di fattura sartoriale incontrano geometrie tessute e filate con cura artistica e pregio materico dei pullover protagonisti, spesso indossati a pelle. Volumi e tonalità echeggiano gli anni Settanta, spazio e nuovo vigore a…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Romantic Sailorman

City districts, public stages, balconies and grandstands: the Miuccia Prada stage is a meeting place in the heart of the city for walkers, listeners, residents, returning or passing town folks. Romantic retro atmospheres with cornerstones of masculine elegance like the full-bodied coats, cloaks and capes worn over suits, shirts and underjacket tops edited by the artist Christophe Chemin who created patterns and drawings for the show. Contrade cittadine, palchi pubblici, balconate e tribune, il palcoscenico di Miuccia Prada è un ritrovo nel cuore del paese, per chi passeggia, ascolta, risiede, ritorna o è di passaggio. Atmosfere romantiche e retrò anche nel guardaroba in collezione, con capisaldi dell’eleganza maschile come cappotti corposi, mantelle e cappe, portati sopra abiti, camicie e sottogiacca, editati dall’artista Christophe Chemin che ha firmato stampe e disegni…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

HOGAN

Hogan club generation: casual-luxury metropolitan uniforms to wear with ease from morning to night on every occasion. The Hogan philosophy is to have a relaxed attitude but at the same time aggressive combining the traditional art of dressing well with character, updated with the latest trends. Up to date informal new tuxedo suits, cashmere double-breasted jackets, leather trench coats, bomber jackets, biker jackets and gym-inspired trousers worn with sneakers, brogues or Chelsea boots with statement soles. Silver denim for a cosmic twist. Hogan club generation: le divise casual-luxury cittadine per vestire con agio da mattina a sera e in ogni occasione. La filosofia è avere una attitudine rilassata e al contempo grintosa che unisce il ben vestire tradizionale al carattere, aggiornato alle ultime tendenze. Attuali ma informali i nuovi abiti…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

ROBERTO COLLINA

TAILORED KINITWEAR 100% Made in Italy couture knitwear elaborated with fine yarns, graphics, colour tones, a new vintage patina. 1970’s burned brown shades, cocoa, flashes of red, green, dusty light blue. The finest artisanal craftsmanship creates comfortable, enveloping and soft pieces. Wool, cashmere, alpaca, silk, boiled wool, camouflage effects, gradients colours, tie-dye, melange for a wardrobe comprising of crew necks, V-neck pullovers, classic Scandinavian knits, fine gauge jumpers. Maglieria couture interamente made in Italy elaborata con pregiati filati, grafiche e sfumature di colore, dalla patina neo-vintage anni Settanta per le tonalità marroni bruciati e cacao, punte di rosso, verdi e azzurri polverosi. Il tipo di lavorazioni pregiate e artigianali creano pezzi comodi, avvolgenti e morbidi. In lana, cashmere, alpaca, seta, effetto camouflage, degradè, tye & dye, melange. In guardaroba, girocollo,…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Z ZEGNA

HIGH TECH TAILORING Technological tailoring and sportswear inspired by the allure of high altitude trekking and reframed among metropolitan skyscrapers. High tech outerwear, rubberised and heat-sealed, with laser details, worn with oversize sweaters and graphic trousers. Trekking footwear and leg warmers, sheepskin and Merino wool backpacks evoke mountaineering. The tailoring version of the ‘Icon Warmer’ jacket is designed to offer customised thermal protection thanks to an advanced integrated heat generator panel powered by wireless charging. Tailoring tecnologico e sportswear, ispirato all’allure del trekking ad alta quota ricontestualizzato tra i grattacieli metropolitani. Capispalla high tech protagonisti, gommati e termosaldati con dettagli lavorati al laser, indossati su maglioni over e pantaloni grafici. Scarpe trekking e scaldamuscoli, zaini ricoperti in montone e lana merino, a rievocare la montagna. In versione sartoriale, Icon Warmer…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

MODERN DECADENCE

To look at the past to reshape the future, a dogma very much in vogue in the fashion industry in recent years. Old archives, vintage clothes, dusty images as a starting point and as inspiration for the new collections. As we know, the French are masters in this art, both in fashion and in architecture and design. The Autumn/Winter 2016 season in particular emphasised this trend by showcasing on the Parisian catwalks menswear collections as usual full of elegance and creativity but also suffused with an enveloping charming romance. Brands like Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne, Lanvin offered garments made of the highest quality fabrics and yarns, with impeccable finishes and refined details such as embroideries, fur collars and cuffs, bright decorations, all encompassed in a deluxe high…

2 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Heartbeat

Geoffrey B. Small’s iconoclastic collection “Heartbeat” featured a look at sometimes strange, obsessive/compulsive behaviors as a growing means for humans in coping with an ever-increasingly cruel, ominous and inhuman world around them... a society where all of us are going mad, focusing each on our own little obsessions and avoiding the big reality, one person at a time, as humanity races towards its own self-created and inevitable catastrophe. L’iconoclasta collezione “Heartbeat” di Geoffrey B. Small prende in esame comportamenti ossessivo/compulsivi, a volte strani, usati come strumento di crescita per l’uomo nell’affrontare il mondo sempre più crudele, minaccioso e disumano che ci circonda. Una società in cui stiamo diventando pazzi, egoisticamente concentrati sulle nostre piccole ossessioni ed evitando la realtà mentre l’umanità va rapidamente incontro all’inevitabile catastrofe che abbiamo creato con…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Sport de Luxe

Véronique Nichanian perfectly interprets the vision of an elegant, modern, sporty, but still luxurious men’s wardrobe. The silhouette, sober and linear, plays with hints of lively colours, and is composed both by classic suits and jackets, overcoats or trenchcoats, caban, voluminous sweaters, everything worn with sneakers, foulards and silk scarves in contrasted tones. Each garment on the catwalk is also interpreted and presented in leather, sheepskins have coloured insides and suede is matched with knitworks, everything in the French Maison’s savoir-faire attention. Véronique Nichanian interpreta perfettamente la visione di un guardaroba maschile, elegante, moderno, sportivo ma pur sempre lussuoso. La silhouette, sobria e lineare, gioca con tocchi di colori vivaci, ed è composta sia da classici abiti sia da giubbotti, cappotti, trench e caban, voluminosi maglioni, tutto indossato con sneakers,…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Denim De-Construction

When the rules and the classical idea of the making of a garment don’t exist any longer, when a thing’s never really finished and experimentations never cease. Mihara Yasuhiro is a researcher who, for each collection, studies new proportions, new balances and matchings. Jeans, tartan, fishnet, technical fabrics and leather are this wardrobe’s basis. Cross-stitch embroideries on jogging pants, snag shirts, fringed selvedge, garments being cut and reassembled and burnt. Some patches depicting ancient paintings, newspaper or comics pages are randomly placed here and there and, just like souvenirs, create a link to the past. Una realtà in cui le regole e l’idea classica di costruzione di un capo non esistono più, così come le rifiniture, e dove la sperimentazione diventa un must. Mihara Yasuhiro è un ricercatore che a…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Nostalgia Style

The strenght of memories is the idea, the inspiration of Thom Browne’s, who exhibited a nostalgic man In Search of Lost Time. The silhouette itself, is a reverse narration of a regeneration, from a suit disintegrated into scrap, up to the brand new, perfect garment. A wardrobe where we find both a tailcoat and a military overcoat; inlay work, high edges or whole garments, everything in fur; shoes and laced ankle boots and a bowler hat placed in front of the face making us think of René Magritte’s work. A collection built with top sartorial precision that, wearing and tearing, lets half-view the structure of things, which was meant, perhaps, to be the very message of this season. La forza dei ricordi è l’idea, l’ispirazione di Thom Browne, che ha…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

Padded Tailoring

Yamamoto’s collections, season after season, become more and more personal and his murky sense of humour, this time, has been transliterated as a series of messages scribbled over both sides of T-shirts. A harsh message, reflecting his relationship with his mother and, for sure, with women in general. A chaotic, quilted wardrobe, a soft, multilayered sartorial style, an XXXL capable of a total protection or even, perhaps, of a social isolation. Jersey outerwear, voluminous trousers and scarves, sweatshirts and T-shirts are worn over all and complete the silhouette. Le collezioni di Yamamoto, stagione dopo stagione, diventano sempre più personali e il suo originale sense of humor è stato questa volta trascritto con messaggi scarabocchiati sul davanti e sul dietro di magliette. Un messaggio leggero ed elegante che esprime allo stesso…

1 min

Collezioni Uomo|Uomo Collezioni 89

DISTRIBUTORS/DISTRIBUTORI DISTRIBUTORS/DISTRIBUTORI COLLEZIONI

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2 min