Innholdsfortegnelse for 122 i Collezioni Trends

Focused on the Autumn 2017 season, the 44th edition of IHGF Delhi Fair took place from the 12th to the 16th of October. Dedicated to everything inherent to homeware, to lifestyle, to fashion and to textiles, the five day event beat all expectations and paved the way to the 45th edition taking place from the 23rd to the 27th of February 2018. Organised by EPCH twice a year for the Spring and Autumn seasons, the trade show of international relevance has become a key meeting point for the international gift, handicrafts and lifestyle industries. It is a truly comprehensive event, complete with fashion accessories, home accessories, collectibles and gift items. With more than 3,000 exhibitors divided into 14 different sectors, the fair has witnessed a significant increase in the number…

They are two souls, distinct and differently structured, in the Industria Italiana Filati Spring/Summer 2019 collection. In the ‘ACCADEMIA’ range everything is balanced, focused on innovation, on noble fibres, on lightness and on elegance. Femininity is exalted by the transparencies of cotton and viscose in solid colours or in faded prints. Knits become thin as veils yet remain strong and flexible. Sequins and lurex on lines and cotton for a chic glow. Grunge tie & dye printed linens. Sporty lightweight padded cottons. On the hand, the ‘INDUSTRIA’ range is multicolour, dynamic, animated by twisted, refracted, printed and irregular yarns. Space for fantasy, for primary colours in pop contrasts, for brilliant shiny yarns, for almost unevenly dyed stripes, for lurex. The RECYCLED logo appears on yarns partly made of regenerated colour…

The extreme attention to detail is what has always distinguished Fil.pa 1974 and what allows the Italian textile company to create unique products characterised by daring fantasies. As a matter of fact, the new collection is characterised by unmistakable patterns that bestow uniqueness to wellstructured yarns. Extra fine chenilles take over from sumptuous velvets for lighter garments but carry over the a winter trend into the mid-season. Fine but well-structured viscose together with soft bouclé cotton yarns are embellished with lurex details whose sparkle emanates particular notes of femininity and elegance. Thanks to its versatility and uniqueness, Fil.pa 1974 is therefore a perfect reference point for its high-end customers who are always seeking perfection in the details. L’attenzione ai dettagli è ciò che contraddistingue da sempre Fil. pa 1974 permettendo…

Passion and creative mastery in the constructions and the wefts and weaves of thin yarns to create embossed surfaces. Slightly agitated textures even in the fantasies of fancy yarns and in the melange of harmoniously mixed colours. The apparent rusticity of natural fibres is well matched with the luminous aspects of flashes of lurex that discreetly and almost barely emerge in contrast games of sober elegance. Continuous innovation and a rich archive of stitches and yarns for Lanificio dell’Olivo, a mill whose style research and unique characteristics has made into a reference point for knitwear and garment makers. As usual absolutely glamorous, the Summer 2019 collection perseveres in the philosophy that has always distinguished the mill: to amaze and to charm without ever losing sight of the needs of a…

“Wool is more than ever on trend thanks to its optimal performance characteristics that make it ideal in any season. Demand is growing”, declares Lincoln Germanetti, the CEO of Tollegno Holding, the integrated supply chain company of which Tollegno1900 is part of and for which an over 10% increase is expected this year. Wool is the essence and the common thread of the Summer 2019 collection with its aim to enhance the most concrete aspects of the yarns with a special focus on colour in its fullest expression. The purest 100% Cashmere, 100% Ultra Fine and Extra Fine Merino wool, as well as the silk, viscose, linen and cotton blends, are a homage to simplicity in a quest for authentic emotions that highlight the nature of the materials. #backtobasics is…

The themes are developed by Milano Unica creative staff coordinated by the artistic director Stefano Fadda. I temi sono stati elaborati dallo staff creativo di Milano Unica sotto la direzione artistica di Stefano Fadda. All the codes are gently provided by Milano Unica, refer to current Pantone Textile Color System publications for accurate color. WATER Represented by the tale, ”Jacques Cousteau and the Mystery of Atlantis”: the oceanographer who fought in favor of marine flora and fauna, traveling towards the discovery of Atlantis, among the abysses of the ocean and Hellenistic wonders. Nature reveals all the elements of the seafaring world, from waterproof sails to wooden and titanium rudders. On the horizon, new inventions are sighted, with constantly evolving high-tech materials. Rapprensentato dal racconto “Jacques Cousteau e il mistero di…

The field of sustainable fashion was still unexplored before the fashion and costume designer Mateja Benedetti with her best friend, the graphic designer Sasa Kladnik, decided to create a brand that would bring a breath of fresh air into the world of fashion. The ethical and sustainable brand Matea Benedetti was born with the clear goal of being an agent of change and with the intent of protecting the planet and enhancing the wellbeing of its consumers, without ever forgetting those concepts, such as beauty and luxury, that define all major fashion brands. Inspired by Gandhi’s words “be the change you want to see in the world”, Matea Benedetti intends to continue to grow and evolve, always protecting the environment. The label uses only the finest natural materials, preferably organic…

Gothic, dark, underground, non-conformist, grunge. How do you define a spirit like his, if it can be defined? Richard Saturnino Owens - a.k.a. Rick Owens. Californian by birth, French by adoption. When he speaks of fashion, he diverts into performance because this is his true story. Between theater and a catwalk. Between reality and fiction. Between visions and inventions. The apple of Anna Wintor’s eye - who launched him into this world, and who follows his course of interest - he loves to forget the body and dedicates himself to new structures à la Rei Kawakubo. Everything is fluid, everything is stiff, in a perfect rhythm made up of enveloping embraces and harmonic contradictions. The location for his collections are concept stores, those from way back when. Eo Bocci was…

COLLEZIONI DONNA prêt-à-porter A complete overview of Milan, Paris, New York and London Fashion Week. The runway shows from all around the world are examined through a precise trend analysis and with a focus on the most important catwalk shows of the season. The “Lookbooks” section is dedicated to the more interesting resort collections. Exhibitions, books, street style and everything else that is fashion. Una panoramica completa delle fashion week di Milano, Parigi, New York, Londra. Le passerelle di tutto il mondo sono raccontate attraverso una precisa analisi delle tendenze e con un focus sulle sfilate più significative della stagione. Nella sezione “Lookbooks” le collezioni resort più interessanti. Mostre, libri e street style. Tutto quanto è di moda. 4 issues per year 4 numeri all’anno COLLEZIONI TRENDS The most comprehensive…

Editor-In-Charge Giulia Bulgarelli giulia.bulgarelli@logos.info tel. +39 059 412426 Assistant Editor Roberto Iemmolo trends.collezioni@logos.info Consultants Susy Corsini corsiwal@alice.it corsiwal@gmail.com Studio Anna Menica Farinelli annamenica@gmail.com Contributors Maria Casalenuovo Peppe Orrù (Contributing London Editor) Chiara Rosangela Signorelli Decio Vitali (Fashion Editor Collezioni Donna and Collezioni Haute Couture) Special thanks to Sonia Perfetti (Editor in Charge of Collezioni Donna and Haute Couture) TONPEL info.preview@gmail.com maurotonnelli@gmail.com tel. 3485602752 Special features Barbara Pasquini Gerdolle barbara.pasquini@logos.info Social Media Coordinator Luca Fiorini luca.fiorini@logos.info Exhibitions coordinator Alessandra Bartucciotto tel. +39 059 412 547 fax +39 059 412623 alessandra.bartucciotto@logos.info Advertising Trade Fairs Coordinator and Editorial Assistant Anna Brida tel.+39 059 412666 fax +39 059 412623 anna.brida@logos.info Photographers Luca Carta Giuliano Grossi Viero-Zanoni (Fashion Shows) *123RF Graphic Designers Ilaria Pincelli Studio Pubblicità Tre Reggio Emilia – Italy Translations Leila Myftjia Peppe…

Relationships are the source of inspiration for the yarns in the Spring/ Summer 2019 collection. The new Biella Yarn collection reflects relationships in the field of creative and artisanal work where people use their hands to create value, structures and textures. In terms of chromatic choices, there is a special focus on pastel shades and drops colours as well as saturated shades of very bright but light colours all the way to the darker colours, so that the freshness and lightness of summer is visibly apparent. The S/S19 collection contains a range of light and summery yarns made from 100% merino wool in 17.5 and 16.5 micron as well as cotton, cashmere and silk blends. We have also a range of light and airy crêpe yarns. This season we offer…

Because the leitmotif of Igea next Summer collection is ‘Natural Beauty’, the natural raw aspects of fibres definitely stand out. Linen plays a leading role, in every shade of beige but also with flashes of hot colours ranging from red to fuchsia. The characteristics of naturalness are also manifest in the clean and refined yarns such as cordonette through ribbed textured voluminous stitches. Fur in all its nuances comes back after the previous season but with a summery touch. The proposals for evening wear shimmer with very fine glittering transparent features that give summer a touch of sensuality. Igea does not forget its environmental commitment to ecosustainable production, that already uses pesticide-free 90% organic cotton grown with minimal land exploitation, by focusing on the use of Lyocell and acetates. “Natural…

The Pecci collection for the future Spring/Summer season promises to deliver the rediscovered naturalness of true precious fibres, the pleasures of soft and comfortable sensations, the refinement of sought-after knits. Silk, linen and cotton yarns speak of an authentic nature, with wavy structures dyed in earthy colours like warm ocher and yellow. A fair wind blows on the subtle, softer, sensual yarns, with impalpable surfaces that feel like a second skin, faded in pale powdery tones. Another seasonal proposal features games of twisting, patterning and printing on shiny lurex yarns for a brilliantly metallic look. The range of carefully selected precious fibres Fili Naturali consolidates its offer for the most exclusive segments of the market. La ritrovata naturalità di fibre autentiche e pregiate, la piacevolezza di sensazioni confortevoli, morbide, di…

Discover the ancient nuno felt technique, whose name derives from the Japanese word for fabric. Emanuela Rovida discovered the craft technique of felting and its potential a few years ago. The versatility of felt and the endless number of items that can be created with it immediately fascinated her. Emanuela uses the nuno felt technique whereby wool is handcrafted for a long time using only water and Marseilles soap. The fabric is then dried very slowly. To be more precise, the nuno felt technique stages are four and are preceded by the making of a pattern that is always bigger than the finished product as nuno felt can shrink by 40% during the manufacturing process. The first phase is “laying” during which small quantities of wool fibres, to which small…

After much hard work, commitment and dedication, QUID Project, the start up company by Anna Fiscale, debuts on the multimedia shopping platform QVC with an ethical and sustainable collection of handmade garments created with fabric leftover stock from big companies. QUID Project is not just fashion but the realisation of a dream. As a matter of fact, most of the employees working for the start up company have had a difficult past. Just as the re-used materials are transformed into true masterpieces of style and originality, men and women in search of social redemption are able to reinvent themselves and therefore live their lives differently. Thanks to a QVC Next Lab initiative created by QVC in collaboration with The European House Ambrosetti, they are trained to handcraft extremely feminine limited…

Rei Kawakubo, iconic creature of the fashion system, celebrates art in her own manner. Past and present embedded into oneiric prints, exasperating volumes that obliviate the body and create new cocoons to hide in. Astonishing, yes truly, and even more enigmatic, there is no designer in the world who does not look at her with admiration and a bit of gaucherie. An exhibition, which closed in September, “Art of the In-Between”, was dedicated to her by the MET in New York. A recognition that not many designers have had the fortune to experience or, rather than designers, anyone who really has had something to say to that world that lays beyond the great wall of fashion. From the sophisticated creator that she is: Wear Your Freedom, Wear with Feeling, just…

In 1991, along with a group of friends, Jun Takahashi founded Under Cover, a year before graduating from Tokyo’s Bunka Institute. Like most great Japanese designers, he soars beyond any possible classification that is typical of fashion: minimalism, the avant-garde, and so on. Jun is simply Jun, and every new fashion show is an event in itself, between performance and presentation. One of the few that should not go unseen, just for the mere pleasure of being there while, through eyes and mind, you enjoy the works of this designer, one who knows how to grant notions and emotions. Quaint masterpieces made to be worn, slightly conceal, no, actually whisper that thought of having always wanted that outfit, precisely that one, or even that jacket, as if they had always…

Our magazines are present at all the sector’s main trade fairs, with attention to all qualitatively interesting new proposals on the trade fair scene Apparel Textile Salon - Moscow Aymod - Istanbul Aysaf - Istanbul Bright - Berlin Bubble - London Cersaie - Bologna Chic - Shanghai Ciff - Copenhagen Ciff Kids - Copenhagen Comocrea - Cernobbio (Como) Cookies Show - Berlin Couture Fashion Week - NY Cpm - Moscow Denim by Premiere Vision - Paris Dot to Dot - London Expo Riva Schuh - Riva Del Garda Fashion House - Duesseldorf Fashionist - Istanbul Filo - Milano Fimi - Madrid Futurmoda - Alicante Idf - Istanbul Leather Fair If Wedding Fashion - Izmir Imf - Istanbul Fashion Fair Interfilière - Paris Interfilière Lingerie - Hong Kong Intertextile - Shanghai…

The exhibition dedicated to Frida Khalo - from February 1st to June 3rd, 2018 at the Mudec of Milan - will surely be one of those unanimously defined as “unmissable”, and the reason is not difficult to understand. More than one hundred paintings, drawings, and photographs will be exhibited but, above all, the unprecedented discoveries found in Casa Azul, the home of the artist and her husband, Diego Rivera, which reveal many unknown sides of Frida and her works. From research carried out in Mexico by the curator of the exhibition, Sileo, various aspects emerged, such as Frida’s expression of vital suffering, the affirmation of her “Mexicanity”, the search for her most authentic ego, and her resilience, all aimed at helping visitors comprehend how Frida Kahlo’s works represent a profound…

RAW is the theme of the Spring/Summer 2019 season according to Pitti Immagine Filati, a theme to be intended as a reaction to excessive sophistication. RAW is the most honest, the most spontaneous and naïve approach, one that leaves ample freedom to do, to be, to transform, to become. Everything is raw, from food to yarns. Authentic knits, in terms of stitches and gauges, do not hide behind unreachable finesse virtuosities but are proud to declare their materiality and their being in time and space. RAW è il tema della prossima primavera/estate 2019 di Pitti Immagine Filati, inteso come reazione all’eccesso di sofisticatezza. RAW è la strada più onesta, la più spontanea e naif, che lascia grande libertà di fare, di essere, di trasformare e diventare. Dal cibo al filo,…

SPRING SUMMER 2019 ACCADEMIA-INDUSTRIA ITALIANA FILATI Double thread BIELLA YARN Any innovation and new product from Südwolle Group? BOTTO GIUSEPPE Fresh inspirations, sophisticated nuances FIL.PA 1974 Details make perfection IGEA YARN Natural Beauty ILARIA MANIFATTURA LANE Perfect harmony LANIFICIO DELL’OLIVO Allow yourself to be charmed PECCI A refined naturalness PINORI Cross-pollinations of authentic certified origin TOLLEGNO 1900 #backtobasics…

An air of novelty for the Summer collection by Botto Giuseppe that introduces a great number of new developments. Like the lightweight bouclé, the linen and natural fibres blends, the original mouliné twisted effects, the cottons and the silks. A sophisticated colour palette that suffuse the season with natural tones, refines pastel soft nuances, exquisite shades of grey, pink and green. Also new for Botto Giuseppe a range of fabrics, unveiled for the first time in three years at the September 2017 edition of Première Vision, where the Italian mill exhibits again in February 2018. Aria di novità sulla collezione estiva di Botto Giuseppe che esordisce con svariate tipologie di filati. Sono leggeri bouclé, nuove miste con lino e fibre naturali, inediti effetti mouliné, i cotoni e la seta. Sofisticata…

Ilaria Manifattura Lane was founded with the aim of combining the culture of creativity applied to yarns with a rigorous and efficient working methodology. A solid base that allows the company to experiment and innovate. Its continuous innovative research in order to create cutting edge yarns, capable to meet the needs of the market, goes hand in hand with its need to use natural fibres and to follow an ethical philosophy of respect for the materials. This is the premise for the creation of Superkid Mohair, a fibre characterised by a unique lightness and shine. The yarns by Ilaria Manifatture Lane go well beyond seasonality and cross the arc of the whole year in a perfect symbiosis of style and comfort. Ilaria Manifattura Lane nasce con l’obiettivo di fondere la…

Cross-pollination and contrast are the key words of the Pinori collection for Summer 2019. The combination of a great mix of materials and modern technology is the recipe from which new yarns are born. Among the many new seasonal developments, the stonewash treatments, on which the two-colour effects renew the usual look, especially on cotton and hemp fibres. The new season is told through different moods, both in terms of materials and colours, also inspired by contrast. Unusual tones of green are interrupted by flashes of warm tones and earthy nuances: therefore, orange and sand sit beside cool bright greens. For years Pinori has been working to increase its ecological approach by giving life and a new refined identity to recycled yarns. Contaminazione e contrasto sono le parole guida della…

Based in Treviso, Italy, Chiara Pizzinato Atelier scouts for and collects fabrics from the most distant countries, including Japan, India and Indonesia, to the nearest ones, such as Italy and France. After meticulous research, the materials are discovered, selected, “listened to”, juxtaposed and, following an expressive mood dictated by the fabrics themselves, come to define new unique designs and new unique fabrics. Through skilful cuts and craftsmanship combined with creative mastery, the fabrics therefore express their own voices in all their might, strength and expressive potential. The combinations of different colours and fibres, the encounters of shiny and matte, the blending of the smoothness of silk and the roughness of raw materials lead to the creation of fabrics that dictate the shape and the uniqueness of each piece of clothing…

“Dialogue with Colour 5” is the name of the event organised during the November 2017 edition of the Triennale di Milano by Color Coloris - Italian Color Insight. Attended by international colour experts from the worlds of design, industry, art and fashion, the event was divided into 3 panels. Each of the 15 countries associated with Intercolor presented a video to illustrate their interpretation of colours for the coming seasons. The main topic of this edition was Sustainability, which Italy interpreted by using shells instead of sequins and by recycling orange peels creating an innovative organic fibre. Germany expressed the concept of colour as branding, choosing green for the packaging of consumer products. Sustainability also for China with the changes in Beijing urban landscape, painted red and yellow, thanks to…

Concept Anna Menica Farinelli annamenica@gmail.com Leather photos Giuliano Grossi Special thanks to Tonpel info.preview@gmail.com maurotonnelli@gmail.com A special thanks to Tonpel to provide this section with its leather PLOT Handmade dark or very light wefts and weaves reproduce multiple noticeable basketry, barbed, twill and chequerboard effects. Full-bodied leathers become softer when embossed or perforated until they become as soft and pliable as mesh. Natural tone-on-tone chromatic games over animal prints and ethnic motifs. Intrecci handmade scuri o chiarissimi riproducono molteplici effetti canestro, spinati e scacchiere evidenti. Le pelli hanno corpo, ma si ammorbidiscono quando vengono intagliate o traforate fino a raggiungere la morbidezza della rete. I cromatismi naturali, tono su tono, si appoggiano su stampe animalier e motivi etnici. OVERFLOW The colours of shapes are out of shape: exuberant red, yellow,…

There is always something poetic and concurrently majestic in the collections designed by Josep Font, the brand’s Creative Director since 2012. Originally trained as an architect, he explores unprecedented volumes and intense materials, ready to be combined and re-combined into highly creative artifices. An intimately personal style. He loves airiness, with voile that vibrates, dispersed in the air, selecting colors and macro prints that are never commonplace. He imagines infinite suspended bridges that become bows, designs ruffles begotten in the atelier, where needle and thread meet. The result of ancient experiences lived through a modern perspective. Pictorial details, an expression of pre-couture. C’è sempre qualcosa di poetico e allo stesso tempo di maestoso nelle collezioni disegnate da Josep Font, alla guida creativa del brand dal 2012. Architetto di formazione, esplora…

His motto. Rarely does he express his opinion, and absolutely nothing that is personal, sort of like this: “Pursuing creativity without thinking of the consequences.” A great, long-gone thought, even for those who are approaching the world of fashion. Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s protégé, spent his early years at the Bunka Fashion Institute in Tokyo where he studied fashion designers, such as Kenzo Tanaka and Yamamoto. An assurance. While still with Comme des Garçons, Junya achieved acknowledgements and won awards also on his own. Impassioned by transformism, he works with zippers that cut, move, and astonish, with ruffles, and very graphic micro and macro prints. Perfect for his technocouture style, where innovative materials alternate with all-time classics. Il suo motto, rare sono le sue esternazioni e assolutamente nulla di personale,…

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ANIL PELLI www.anilderi.com ASPESI FEDERICO www.federicoaspesi.it AVIA www.avia.it BACCI www.bacci.com BE.MI.VA www.bemiva.it BELLATELA www.bellatela.co.uk BIELLA YARN BY SUEDWOLLE GROUP www.suedwollegroup.com BOLDI www.boldi.com BOLDRINI www.boldriniselleria.com BOTTO GIUSEPPE www.bottogiuseppe.com BOTTO POALA www.bottopoala.com CARIAGGI LANIFICIO SPA www.cariaggi.it CARPENTIER&PREUX www.carpentier-preux.fr COMME DES GARÇONS www.comme-des-garcons.com COTONIFICIO ROBERTO FERRARI www.ferraricotonificio.it DELPOZO www.delpozo.com DELPRATO www.delprato.com DI.VE www.filatidive.it EUSEBIO www.eusebio.it FABIFIL www.fabifil.it FILITALY www.filitaly-lab.com FILOSCOZIA - FILMAR www.filoscozia.it FIL.PA 1974 www.filpa1974.it FIORDANI RICCARDO www.fordiani.it GENTILI www.gentilisrl.it GERIFIL www.filo.it GI.TI.BI www.gitibi.it IHGF DELHI FAIR www.ihgfdelhifair.epch.in IIF ACCADEMIA www.industriaitalianafilati.it ILARIA MANIFATTURA LANE www.ilaria.it INDUSTRIA ITALIANA FILATI www.industriaitalianafilati.it JUNYA WATANABE www.junyawatanabe.org LANECARDATE www.lanecardate.com LANIFICIO DELL’OLIVO www.lanificiodellolivo.it LEATHERTEX www.leathertex.itit LINOXSEMPRE www.linopersempre.nl MANIFATTURA IGEA www.igeayarn.it MILLEFILI www.millefili.com MIROGLIO www.mirogliogroup.com MISTER JOE www.misterjoe.it MUNICH FABRIC START www.munichfabricstart.com ONGETTA www.ongetta.eu PECCI FILATI www.pecci1884.it PINORI FILATI www.pinori.it POLIPELI www.polipeli.com PONTETORTO www.pontetorto.it PREDATEX www.predatex.it RECA GROUP www.recagroup.com…