Innholdsfortegnelse for 113 i Collezioni Trends

Fashion journalists are strange people. We swing between the desire for novelty and the regret that the good old days will never come back. To be honest, we are like fools with bulimic needs that are never satisfied to the eyes of my friends who deal with altogether different matters. The reason why I like to write my column on new designers in each issue of Collezioni Trends is be-cause it gives me the opportunity to focus on the world of young designers, to study them and talk about their dreams and expectations, and in time to decide whether I think they really will carve their name in the future of fashion. This article focuses on Vetements: the emerging label is French by name and location but the creative role…

More proposals are submitted with an increased number of pages dedicated to the theme in the digital format of Collezioni Trends 113, to be fund here: Le proposte si ampliano ulteriormente con un numero maggiore di pagine dedicate all'argomento nel formato digitale di Collezioni Trends 113 che trovate qui:…

Cupro, renown for high quality linings, is now available also for the everyday wardrobe thanks to the three new ranges by Asahi Kasei, The first is Cupro FF, a new micro yarn of incredible softness and fineness for lightweight and silky dresses. The second is Cupro DF, a completely opaque, very light and soft yarn made of opaque completely filaments that can protect against UV rays. The third innovation in the Cupro range is a new staple yarn with a very pleasant touch and a bright look, ideal for underwear and particularly suitable for sportswear and leisurewear thanks to its natural anti-static and temperatureregulating properties. Ashai Kasei forecasts an 10% increase in production from 15,000 to 16,500 tons per year in order to meet the growing demand for Cupro. The…

Decorated The attention to details and the beauty of careful manufacturing. Precious motifs for buttons and trimmings. La cura del dettaglio e la bellezza di accurate lavorazioni, motivi preziosi per bottoni e passamanerie. Rigorously Precise lines, contours defined by bi-chromatic contrasts alongside metallic flashes and gemstone light reflections. Linee precise, contorni definiti per cromatismi in contrasti bicolori, accanto a lampi metallici e riflessi di pietre. Wrapped Enveloped by winter slumber and immersed in the indefinite nuances of mist or in the heat of earthy tones. Avvolti da un torpore invernale, sono immersi nelle sfumature indefinite di nebbie o nel calore dei toni della terra. Playtime Splashes of colour and flashes of joy warm up the season because a gush of optimism never hurts. Spruzzi di colore, lampi di allegria scaldano…

New English style BURBERRY PRORSUM In his latest collection, Christopher Bailey shows a great love for all that is lace or crochet. Following the no gender category, shirts are both for her and for him, in pure and precious macramé, reminiscent of a certain romantic Byron, and also of some Seventies’ atmospheres, but Christopher does not indulge too much and his work is delicate. Here is the trench coat, this time just for her: an icon of the Maison, but not the classic style, very intriguing in a beige lace. Christopher Bailey in quest’ultima collezione mostra un grande amore per tutto ciò che è pizzo e merletto. Secondo la categoria del no gender le camicie sono sia per lei sia per lui in candido e prezioso macramé, che ricorda non…

In July SATAB, one of the leading French and European producers of ribbons for lingerie and beachwear, exhibited at both Mode City and Interfilière, two concomitant trade shows in Paris. The SATAB Fashion division, which was specifically involved in the trade show tour de force, is present worldwide in the womenswear, menswear, childrenswear clothing and accessories segments. The company boasts very high levels of quality and know-how, including the ability of constantly initiating significant aesthetic and functional changes and of transforming the ribbons as well as product customising, which is one of the many strengths of the company. ‘Be Inspired, a gigantic forecasting notebook officially unveiled in Paris, focused on four main trends for Autumn/Winter 2016: Wild Forest, Northern Nomads, Makers, and 3.0 Classic. SATAB Lab launched a new range…

Once again everything is ready to welcome “The Best of French Textiles” from Rhône-Alpes, always organized by Espace Textile with the support of the Rhône-Alpes. We can feel all the tradition of this region, well known since XVI century for its excellence in textile field. The savoir faire of Rhône-Alpes perfectly blends creativity with innovation, customs with modernity and it’s still the unique region in France to have a textile chain wholly local: from designers to distribution system. The keyword of this edition is “respect”: for tradition, for tidiness, for high quality work and for environment. Four themes to amaze: rationality and return to values, gathering in the forest, a touch of calm by reinventing the academicism, folklore pilgrimage to a new concept of beauty. In the first trend, an…

The clothes made by students of Accademia Italiana using fabrics by the Italian market leader Klopman following the "Industrial Couture” theme were very much appreciated at AltaRoma by a large crowd of journalists and fashion experts. The combination of high fashion and workwear materials, more specifically the Protectivewear, Corporatewear, and Workwear technical fabrics, gave really extraordinary results. The photos of the garments, taken by students of the photography course, will appear on the Klopman 2016 calendar and are a demonstration that these fabrics can provide not only maximum security but also the best fit. The clothes were made using primarily superbandmaster and DIVA textiles that offer a very soft touch and very pleasant draped effects. Numerous well-chosen colour tones were used, from passion purple to smokeberry, from hydrangea to beige…

Jeanologia is a Spanish company specialised in the development of sustainable technologies for garment finishes. It unveiled exclusively at Kingpins New York its latest innovative product, the iKnits collection, focused on performance sportswear and on ‘Pure Eco’ denim developments. iKnits was created by and for those who play sports: it is a range that mixes functionality and technology by providing important performance aspects such as moisture control management thanks to the eFlow technology. Through the combination of laser technology, G2 ozone, and eFlow, the Spanish company was able to get different finishes on various materials such as cotton, neoprene, and cupro, therefore opening up new opportunities to the performance sportswear segment. Again using eFlow for the ‘Pure Eco’ collection, Jeanologia guarantees a low environmental impact process: just a glass of…

Casual or austere, transgressive or ironic, shirts know how to clothe the masculine imageinary and much more. Disinvolte o rigorose, trasgressive o ironiche sanno vestire l’immaginario maschile, ma non solo. METICULOUS Structured in precise wefts with weaves that creat minimalist patterns. METICOLOSI Strutturate in trame precise, con intrecci che creano motivi minimali. INDISPENSABLE The kingdom of tartans, a classic that knows how to make an appearance in unedited versions. INDISPENSABILI Il regno degli scozzesi, un classico che sa riproporsi in versioni inedite. IN LINE Uneven surfaces alongside very small stripes interrupetedb by small stitches. IN RIGA Superfici irregolari si alternano a minimi rigati interrotti da piccoli punti. FUNNY Small fun motifs and paisley, printed double textures. DIVERTENTI Piccoli motivi divertenti e paisley, doppi texture con stampe.…

LIBRI: - Anna Menica Farinelli Images - Henry Horenstein – Animalia – Ed Contrasto - Werner Bischof – Federico Motta Editore - Marc Lavrillier, 50 Designers dal 1950 al 1975 – Seriegorlich - Tilman Osterwold – Pop Art – Taschen - Antonio Barrese, Alberto Marangoni – Mid- Silvana Editoriale - Okwui Enwezor – Snap Judgments – International Center of Photography – Steidl - Laurence Phillips – Francia – Touring Editore - Dirk Meyhofer – Pietra – Motta Architettura - Borse – Ed. Pepin Press - Candida Hofer – Thames & Hudson - C. Mcdowell – Fashion Today – Phaidon Ed - Brigitte Von Boch – Flower Design – Teneue - Italo Rota – Skira - A cura di F. Pasini- -Grazia Toderi – Skira - Carlo Sironi – Antonia Campi…

Uneven graphic elements and subdued soft lights Grafismi irregolari e luci discrete soffuse Auburn rivers glide with flowing courses Fiumi ramati scivolano con andamenti fluidi Reflection over beauty, fleeting yet timeless Riflessioni sulla bellezza, effimera ma eterna Once again luxurious touches, more and more … Tocchi sontuosi, ancora, e ancora … ancora…

Bohemia in the Czech Republic has been worldwide famous for its crystals for centuries and the art of crystal cutting has reached perfection in this region right in the heart of Europe. Delicate elegance, captivating splendour, exceptional brilliance are not by chance main characteristic features of PRECIOSA Crystal Components, a company known worldwide as a beacon of quality. Its century old heritage and historic know-how are now combined with the most avant-garde technologies as PRECIOSA is now becoming a major player in the international market for the production of crystal components and crystal applications for fashion and design. The wide range of products, as well as the respect for the environment, are the cornerstones of the Czech company that has been successfully working with GI.MA, one of its official distributors…

The quest by CollezioniTrends among the great yarns and fabrics manufacturers, which made Made in Italy and Italy famous worldwide, continues. In this issue I approached Piacenza Cashmere, an example of Italian culture with its roots in Italian history. In researching for this article, I was struck by two issues that have little to do with yarns and cashmere, perhaps because in this case a single name can be the perfect introduction. The first issue concerns the fact that the Italian mill is part of ‘Les Hénokiens, the international association that brings together family businesses that are at least two hundred year old. Then, I was enraptured by a series of pictures about the explorations by Guido and Mario Piacenza, such as the flight across the Himalayas and the exploration…

The Middle Ages, with all its mythical arsenal, are the era that inspired Jewellered Heroine trend. The employment of drawings of armours gives this theme a very tough and intense look. The same inspirations are in the patterns in black and silver that prevail in the accessories. In Flamboyant Femme trend, work of art and quotes from the past are shifted into the present. The artistic inspiration is explicit: abstract, figurative and ornamental decorations define the luxurious outfits, while the sculptural accessories precisely recall, according to look and shape, pieces of art, where there are Mondrian-like colored divisions. In Bold Utility a modern street look, performance and practical, is the result of a well-aimed combination between tailoring and sportswear. Three-dimensional graphics come to life from shades of colors, shadows, striking…

Once again View Premium Selection was a success with its 300 international collections and another increase in visitor’s attendance. Two days to kick-off into Autumn/Winter 2016-17 full of inspirations, innovations and fresh optimism. Not only fabrics, but also denim, sportswear and colors were presented. Well known and high-quality brands such as Lagerfeld, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein were interested in this new expanded portfolio. Wolfgang Klinder, the CEO of MUNICH FABRIC START, said “We are very pleased that VIEW as a preview trade fair at the beginning of the season offers RTW manufacturers an unparalleled range of international collections for important segments”. Nowadays VIEW is really an important window open on a fashion that leaves room to creation and interpretation. Even Jennifer Rees-Bowen of Calvin Klein shares this view: “For us…

The fashion NGO Redress, with an active part in the reduction of waste in the fashion industry, has officially kicked off, last June, the EcoChic Design Award, a fashion sustainable competition for emerging designers, celebrating its fifth anniversary. Since 2011, year of its debut, the contest accepted entries from Hong Kong only, now it ushers in participants from over 100 countries across Asia and Europe. The founder of Redress, Christina Dean, said: "The EcoChic Design Award is a powerful platform that is introducing big changes in the world of fashion. In the last five years, we have introduced an education focused on sustainable fashion for thousands of emerging designers, we have influenced the global fashion brands to produce sustainable collections and we have reached so many consumers”. The competition promotes…

SKY-PASS SWEEL Always an absolute lightness. A levity that fades in iridescent, airy, ethereal tones like veiled patinas of ice. La leggerezza, sempre e assoluta. Una levità che sfuma nei toni iridescenti, ariosi,impalpabili anch’essi, come velati da patine di ghiaccio. ANATOMIC-PASS COMPACT The Haute Couture perfection and attention to detail of the greatest couturiers, skilful masters of style who prefer compact structures. La perfezione e la cura del dettaglio dell’Alta Sartoria dei grandi designer, maestri di stile e di abilità che prediligono strutture compatte. PASS-WORK GROUP Assemble, build, weave structures designed as modules and as jacquard keeping in mind the worlds of blue and of denim. The yarns are soft and comfortable. Assemblare, costruire, intrecciare strutture progettate come moduli, come jacquard: ricordando il mondo del blu e del denim. I…

In rivers, the water that you touch is the last of what has passed and the first of that which comes; so with present time. L'acqua che tocchi de' fiumi è l'ultima di quelle che andò e la prima di quella che viene. Così il tempo presente. (Leonardo da Vinci) THE AGE OF MAN AS A HUMAN BEING Classics are revisited and upgraded in weight, brightness, composition. Natural fibres are hybridised with man made yarns to become the base for new prints and coatings. Geometric patterns are broken and distorted I classici sono rivisitati nei pesi, nelle lucentezze, nelle composizioni e nobilitazioni. Le fibre naturali si ibridano con i man made, base di nuove stampe e spalmature, la decorazione geometrica si spezza, distorcendosi. THE AGE OF THE MACHINE Two extremes,…

Creativity is the art of adding two to two by getting five - La creatività è l'arte di sommare due e due ottenendo cinque (Arthur Koestler) ELEMENTARY TESSITURA ARTIFICIAL FUGUE HERETICAL CHORDS RHAPSODIC TRANSGRESSION THE ABSOLUTE TRUTH DOES NOT EXIST, BUT THE ARTIST WITH OWN GENIUS CAN CREATE ONE ... AT LEAST OWN TRUTH. NOTHING IS FIXED, EVERYTHING CAN BE TRANSFORMED BEFORE OUR EYES. EVEN DREAMS BECOME REALITY AND THE WORLD HAS NO LIMITS. BEAUTY AND CREATIVITY HAVE BEEN ABLE TO SURVIVE ALL THESE YEARS. REALITY HAS NO RULES AND MAN CAN FINALLY BECOME WHAT HE WANTS TO BE. LA VERITÀ ASSOLUTA NON ESISTE, MA L'ARTISTA CON LA SUA GENIALITÀ RIESCE A CREARNE UNA … ALMENO LA SUA. NULLA È STATICO, TUTTO PUÒ ESSERE TRASFORMATO SOTTO I NOSTRI OCCHI. ANCHE…

The tightrope walker We all like it Life smiles Jungle city Heritage The tightrope walker Seeking the equilibrium between the two absolute non-colours. Just like in the famous Chinese taijtui symbol, the two colours are next to each other and embrace each other and yet remain the opposite of each other. A number of unfathomable possibilities springs out from an ‘impossible’ union. ”Black contains everything, including white. Together, they are absolute beauty, the perfect deal" said the legendary Coco Chanel who knew what fashion is all about. Starting from Fornasetti, the style exercises gloriously continue all the way to really beautiful contemporary fashionistas. The tightrope walker Alla ricerca dell’equilibrio fra i due non colori assoluti. Come il celebre simbolo cinese taijtui i due toni si avvicinano, si avvolgono, ma rimangono…

Apparel Textile Salon - MoscowAymod - IstanbulAysaf - IstanbulBfc London Collection: MenBright - BerlinBubble - LondonCersaie - BolognaChic / Chic Young Blood - ShanghaiCiff - CopenhagenCiff Kids - CopenhagenComocrea - Cernobbio (Como)Couture Fashion Week - NYCpm - MoscowDenim By Premiere Vision - BarcelonaDg Expo - NYDot to Dot - LondonExpo Riva Schuh - Riva Del GardaFashion House - DuesseldorfFashionist - IstanbulFilo - MilanoFimi - MadridFuturmoda - AlicanteIdf - Istanbul Leather FairIf Wedding Fashion - IzmirImf - Istanbul Fashion FairIndigo - NYInternational Textile Fair - DubaiInterfilière - ParisInterfilière Lingerie - Hong KongIntertextile - ShanghaiIntertextile Home Textiles - ShanghaiIsaf India Shoes And Accessories Forum - MumbaiIzmir Bags Shoes AccessoriesJacket Required - LondonKind & Jugend - KolnKleine Fabriek - AmsterdamLineapelle - MilanoLittle Fashion Week - BruxellesMiff Milan International Fast FashionMilano Prêt-à-PorterMilano UnicaMipel -…

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