Innholdsfortegnelse for 171 i Collezioni Donna

“A Japanese Constellation: Toyo Ito, SANAA, and Beyond” is the first exhibition at the MoMA dedicated exclusively to Japanese professionals, focusing on a group of contemporary architects. On display are 44 projects representing a diverse range of works that go from small domestic projects all the way to museums. Presented through models, drawings, and slides, the works of these great professionals underline significant structural innovations and the use of transparencies and extremely lightweight materials. Yet, at the same time, they put in the foreground the social lives of their houses and bring to life an idea of social consciousness that had characterized earlier avantgarde works. A Japanese Constellation offers a retrospective of the most recent works by three generations of internationally renowned designers, among which include Toyo Ito, Kazuyo Sejima,…

Are we living in the future? For many aspect we are as things that we might have though unimaginable twenty or even ten years ago are now part of our daily life. This living in the future right now aspect is maybe not so evident as yet in the world of fashion even if the latest developments of technology applied to textiles and to garment construction and manufacturing are applied more and more to clothes and accessories for everyday use. The truly inspiring ‘#techstyle’ exhibition at the prestigious Museum of Fine Arts in Boston is a perfectly curated analysis of what happens when fashion meets technology through an extraordinary selection of visionary cutting edge experimental garments. Dresses that react to changes in the environment including noise and temperature, pieces that…

“We communicate the way we think, what we see, how we feel. Driven by discovery, inspired beyond the immediate, the living landscape. We reveal exposure, abstraction, ideogrammatical poetry, reality and fantasy, logical paradoxes involved in eclectic contamination. Manipulating symbols, we produce hand-to-mouth fashionology, couturistic algebra, intimate storytelling, in-suspension” writes Fabio Piras, the MA Fashion Course Director, in the show notes of the last Central Saint Martins MA fashion show, one of the most highly anticipated and unmissable appointments of the February edition of London Fashion Week. Over a dozen of the brightest students in the Master courses in Womenswear Design, Menswear Design, Fashion Knitwear and Textiles Design showcased their Autumn/Winter 2016 collection to an eager audience of journalists, buyers, fashion professional and experts from all over the world. Eager to…

Like many other photographers of his generation, Daido Moriyama is witness to the changes that have occurred in Japan in the decades after World War II. In response to these changes, which were difficult to sustain, Moriyama invented a new visual language, in order to express the local essence and the conflict between tradition and modernity. In 1961, he moved to Tokyo and began to gravitate towards the cultural and avant-garde existence of the photographers of the Vivo Agency, beginning to narrate and describe the charm of the bizarre underworld of Japanese street life by joining together two cohabiting realities in a theatrical and erotic manner. Also during this period, he developed a photographic technique inspired by that of the Americans, William Klein and Robert Frank, oriented towards an active…

Simple and sophisticated lines, impeccable masculine cuts, elegant and comfortable movements. Magnificent are the sartorial suits, with slender volumes, dressing the silhouette like a glove. Black, royal blue, gray, and camel are the colors allowed. Macro stars printed on dresses and accessories, just enough pop. Gareth Pugh pursues his theatrical and provocative vision of fashion, and goes as far as introducing biter masks on the catwalk - the Hannibal Lecter mask in “The Silence of the Lambs” - for women who are strong, powerful and, perhaps, man-eaters? Linee semplici e sofisticate, impeccabili tagli maschili, movimenti eleganti e confortevoli. Magnifici i tailleur sartoriali dai volumi asciutti, che vestono la silhouette come un guanto. Nero, bluette, grigio e cammello le tinte ammesse, macro stelle stampate su abiti e accessori, pop quanto basta.…

A collection that seems dedicated to young Hollywood stars. Valley girls used to shopping in exclusive boutiques, but also flea markets. Miuccia Prada captures a vintage chic feel in a snapshot, cleverly delineated in all its forms. A mix of pastels and bright colors emphasized by tapestry jacquard, details in fox, and big belts. Large crenellated collars peek out from tweed jackets worn over jodhpur pants and very high-waisted shorts. Velvet, inevitable and rejuvenated by the real star of the entire line: denim. Una collezione che sembra dedicata alle giovani star di Hollywood, valley girls abituate a frequentare boutique esclusive così come mercatini dell’usato. Miuccia Prada cattura in un’istantanea un feel vintage chic che declina abilmente in tutte le sue forme: un mix di toni pastello e colori accesi sottolineato…

A collection full of a creative, fun, and carefree input interpreted by a flirtatious color palette, where mango is accompanied by kiwi. Diverse, in fact, are the variants of green. Pine absinthe in transparent chiffon, and silky velvets. Creative director of the brand since 2013, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, boasts of an important professional past experience and knows how to calibrate the right trends of the moment. This leads to floral dresses, a season must, and baby pink coats alongside a series of pieces in brocade with golden reflections, for both dusters and fine or simple shirts, as a surprise. Una collezione ricca di input creativi, divertente e scanzonata interpretata da una palette di colori ammiccante, dove il mango si accompagna al kiwi. Sono infatti diverse le varianti del verde, dall’assenzio al…

The Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof collection is inspired by the luxury of the Austrian capital, by the unique event of the Vienna Opera Ball. Male tailcoats with a soft cut rest over shiny pants and dresses with a fluid, ultra-feminine silhouette. Bronzes and burgundies dominate the scene, accompanied by shades of blue and ivory. Glistening sequins and silks are married with tweed in cotton, brocade or houndstooth. A walk along the Danube in a Vienna illuminated by bright reflections from the flowing river. La collezione di Johnny Talbot e Adrian Runhof si ispira al lusso della capitale austriaca, all’evento unico del Vienna Opera Ball; frac maschili dal taglio morbido si appoggiano su lucenti pantaloni e abiti dalla silhouette fluida, iperfemminile. Bronzi e bordeaux dominano la scena, affiancati dai toni…

Even this season, Yohji Yamamoto brings together a balanced collection that touches the innermost chords of the spectator. For three quarters of the fashion show, marvelous creations were admired in the ever eternal variations of black and white. Then, in a flash, worthy of a great master, appeared tailored coats, pants, skirts, and dresses dyed glossy black, creating a rubber effect that leaves you speechless. Yamamoto is proof that true talent never tires. Anche questa stagione Yohji Yamamoto mette insieme una collezione equilibrata e che tocca le corde più intime dello spettatore. Per tre quarti di sfilata si sono viste meravigliose creazioni nella sempre eterna declinazione del bianco e nero ma poi, con un colpo di coda degno di un grande maestro, ecco i cappotti sartoriali, i pantaloni, le gonne…

A modern Atlantis welcomes the Louis Vuitton woman, among shattered mirrors and references to the past. A collection that is an encounter and stylistic dynamism born from the reinterpretation of the history of the Maison in a futuristic key. Nicolas Ghesquière creates and revises, amalgams and alternates: hybrid outfits where cashmere is worked like sports material, where tops are paired with tailored jackets and flowing dresses or with slim pants. Contrasting colors: black and white, red and blue, and the leitmotif: leather, the lustrous star of jackets, pants, bustiers, and accessories. Una moderna Atlantide accoglie la donna di Louis Vuitton fra giochi di specchi e richiami al passato: una collezione che è incontro e dinamicità stilistica nata dalla rilettura della storia della Maison in chiave futuristica. Nicolas Ghesquière crea e…

Oversized volumes: among all the enveloping down jackets that have returned, after several seasons spent in exile not from the wardrobes of women, but from international catwalks. For the most famous vegan designer in the fashion system (her “Falabella” faux leather bag among the most beloved and best-selling), starting this season, down jackets will no longer be down-filled, in line with Stella’s ethical choices. Alongside a very British neo-romantic image is a series of dresses and blouses with micro ruffles and collars raised to cover the neck, a rather Virginia Woolf style. Volumi over: fra tutti gli avvolgenti piumini che ritornano, dopo alcune stagioni trascorse in esilio non dal guardaroba femminile, ma dalle passerelle internazionali. Per la più celebre stilista vegana del fashion system (amatissima e vendutissima la sua borsa…

It’s official: the collective behind the Vetements label, led by the Georgian, Demna Gvasalia, dictates law in the Ville Lumière. Its conveying street style towards a higher and conceptual profile represents one of the most modern and interesting examples of the fashion system, with a collection composed of shirts, sweatshirts, and oversized jackets. Shirts that are reminiscent of the grunge period and dresses with an almost childish air. Fascinating is also the location selected: the American Cathedral on Avenue George V. È ufficiale: la collettiva dietro al marchio Vetements, capitanata dal georgiano Demna Gvasalia, detta legge nella Ville Lumière. Il loro convogliare lo streetstyle verso un profilo più alto e concettuale rappresenta uno degli esempi più moderni e interessanti del sistema moda con una collezione composta da camicie, felpe e…

A collection exclusively dedicated to Germany, the entire country, in its most technical aspect. Again, Chalayan demonstrates his very original relationship with technology, with the industrial. The runway is animated with numerical patterns, digital and mechanical inspirations, squared motifs, and laminated fabrics. Even the silhouettes are influenced by that typical German love for precision, cinched in straps of leather, squared off under baggy clothing and coats. In the words of Chalayan: “Teutonic”. Una collezione interamente dedicata alla Germania, al Paese tutto, nel suo aspetto più tecnico: Chalayan dimostra ancora una volta il suo originalissimo rapporto con la tecnologia, con l’industriale. La passerella si anima quindi di decori numerici, ispirazioni digitali e meccaniche, motivi a quadrante e tessuti laminati: anche le silhouette vengono influenzate dall’amore tipicamente tedesco per la precisione, ora…

This is definitely the best collection by Each x Other. One that more completely tells a story without undue redundancy, as we have seen in the past, and presents the real talent of this creative group. An ensemble of tweed, stiff denim, soft black Nappa skirts. Beige with cream and brown as its base palette. This collection is the narrative of a union of diametrically opposed worlds: streetwear and men’s tailored fashion. Questa è decisamente la migliore collezione di Each x Other, quella che in modo più completo racconta una storia senza inutili eccessi come abbiamo visto in passato e dimostra il reale talento di questo gruppo creativo. Un insieme di tweed, denim rigido, morbide gonne di nappa nera, il beige unito al panna e al marrone come palette di…

A fairytale landscape, a winter wonderland dedicated to the whitest of whites. Giambattista Valli transforms Moncler’s Gamme Rouge from the sportswear standards, typical of the label, into an alpine village in sugar paste, an enchanted place where clothing also has sweet tones. Candid is the entire collection, with serenity blue embroideries, and the softest of sweaters, lederhosen, and black furs in contrast. Delicious outfits with vivid red details. Creations that are romantic and, at the same time, young and fresh, like peppermint candy canes. Un paesaggio da favola, una “winter wonderland” all’insegna del bianco piu bianco. Giambattista Valli trasporta la Gamme Rouge di Moncler dai codici dello sportwear tipici del brand verso un villaggio alpino in pasta di zucchero, un luogo fatato dove anche gli abiti hanno tonalita dolci: candida…

The dreamlike future of 1960’s science fiction by the likes of Isaac Asimov and Philip K. Dick, traditional Japanese tapestry and Chinese Qing dynasty snuff boxes are some of the inspirations behind a masterfully engineered collection in terms of colours, patterns, decorative details that Katrantzou perfectly controls like the most accomplished orchestra director. Hers is a unique and truly contemporary take on the bon chic bon genre style. Il futuro onirico della fantascienza anni 60 di Isaac Asimov e Philip K. Dick, tappezzerie tradizionali giapponesi, tabacchiere della dinastia Qing sono alcune delle fonti d’ispirazione di una collezione magistralmente progettata in termini di colori, fantasie e dettagli decorativi, perfettamente controllati dalla Katrantzou come un direttore d’orchestra estremamente capace. Il risultato? Un’interpretazione unica e veramente contemporanea dello stile bon ton. www.marykatrantzou.com…

The beauty of Georgian women and antique jewelry are the source of inspiration for the designer, Aka Nanita. Portraits of young women printed on shirts and embroidery made by hand, with natural fibers and appliqués, add character and sophistication to the collection. Fabrics are rich and carefully selected, ranging from guipure lace to velvet. Pastel tones are complemented by bright colors in an harmonious ensemble. Luxury and modernity go handin-hand for a whispered elegance. The motto of the creations: love, luxury, and feel comfort. La bellezza delle donne georgiane e gli antichi gioielli sono la fonte d’ispirazione della stilista Aka Nanita. Ritratti di giovani donne sono stampati sulle camicie e ricami realizzati a mano, con fibre naturali e applicazioni, donano carattere e raffinatezza alla collezione. I tessuti sono pregiati e…

After twenty years as creative director at Moschino, the designer, Rossella Jardini, now boasts of a label that bears her own name. Rossella’s passion for the fashion world has never been dormant. A passion that has made a strong comeback in this collection and, while it encloses the principles of a classic elegance, it maintains the promise of innovation, in search of a style dedicated to a woman who is the protagonist of her own time. A collection with a strong aesthetic impact, recognizable in pieces created to make those who wear them feel comfortable and in good spirits, without sacrificing elegance and comfort. Dopo vent’anni alla guida creativa di Moschino, la stilista Rossella Jardini possiede ora un marchio che porta il suo nome. Una passione mai sopita quella di…

This woman is fatal and mysterious, hiding in fluid, transparent fabrics, in soft and enveloping lines. Mi Jong Lee’s poetry is expressed here. In her most artistic vision, in her studio in New York, the designer has imagined and created long tunics, light and draped like veils, which languidly slide over wide pants, capes in their deepest black resting on shoulders, and coats with a refined texture that fall into a robe style line down to the knee. The nuances are intense, absolute. È fatale e misteriosa questa donna che si nasconde in tessuti fluidi e trasparenti, in linee morbide ed avvolgenti. La poesia di Mi Jong Lee si esprime qui, nella sua visione più artistica la designer ha immaginato e realizzato nell’atelier di New York lunghe tuniche, leggere e…

Works of art are the sources of inspiration for the Minitz collection dedicated to next winter. Sculptures and installations are reflected in structured silhouette, volumes, and trims that reveal rigor and linearity. Femininity and comfort are united in an harmonious ensemble, elegant and sophisticated, in creations made of fabrics that ensure an excellent fit. Simple lines, natural fibers, and basic colors, are the premises of the philosophy of this Korean label that, for this year, has proposed to expand its market in China and the United States. Sono opere d’arte le fonti d’ispirazione della collezione Minit z dedicata al prossimo inverno. Sculture e installazioni si riflettono in silhouette strutturate, volumi e orli che lasciano trasparire rigore e linearità. Femminilità e confort si uniscono in un armonico insieme elegante e sofisticato…

The key elements of the Theory 2016 pre-fall collection are minimalism and details. The models are designed for a modern woman, fully living her day to day life, who chooses essential garments for her wardrobe. Designed proportions ensure that trousers slip on smoothly, dresses are tailored to just outline the silhouette of the body. Strict colour choice too: absolute black and white, with a touch of tawny brown as the only concession. Gli elementi chiave della collezione pre-fall 2016 di Theory sono il minimalismo e i dettagli. Modelli pensati per la donna moderna, immersa nella quotidianità, che sceglie per il proprio guardaroba capi essenziali. Proporzioni studiate nei pantaloni che scivolano morbidi, nelle linee degli abiti che si appoggiano sul corpo delineandone appena i contorni. Rigorosa anche la scelta dei colori,…

A game of contrasts in perfect harmony reveals a collection where male and female, tradition and modernity live side by side. Essentiality is combined with experimentation and overlapping colours underline the different textures, ranging from cashmere, to radzmir, to cady. Details in fur and ostrich feathers are also featured. The shoes are penny loafers, pinched from traditional male fashion. Un gioco di contrasti in perfetta armonia rivela una collezione in cui convivono maschile e femminile, tradizione e contemporaneità. L’essenzialità si unisce alla sperimentazione e le sovrapposizioni cromatiche sottolineano le diverse texture che vanno dal cachemere, al radzmir, al cady. Non mancano dettagli in pelliccia e piume di struzzo. Le scarpe sono le penny loafer prese dalla tradizione maschile. www.jilsander.com…

The 38th edition of Ukrainian Fashion Week presented trends for Fall/Winter 2016-17 on the catwalks of Kyiv from the collections of various Ukrainian designers. The A.M.G. label was inspired by a rock style, where its tough image was softened in the silhouettes and fabrics, evoking a romantic mood. The fil rouge: generous dresses with metal hooks asymmetrically positioned along their entire lengths, revealing the more sensual parts of the female body, especially the neckline. The combination of elongated jackets and campero boots is surprisingly seductive and extravagant, following the trends of the moment. ROUSSIN by Sofia Rousinovich elaborates the relationship between man and automobile in her creations, proposing the “I’m a car” collection, where technological development is seen as a modern phenomenon, one in evolution, and one that has fully…

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3.1 phillip lim www.31philliplim.com a.f. vandevorst www.afvandevorst.be a.m.g. www.amg.co.ua aalto www.aaltointernational.com acne studios www.acnestudios.com aganovich www.aganovich.com agnes b www.agnesb.com aka nanita www.akananita.com akris www.akris.ch alexander mcqueen www.alexandermcqueen.com alexis mabille www.alexismabille.com alice and olivia www.aliceandolivia.com andreas kronthaler for vivienne westwood www.viviennewestwood.com ann demeulemeester www.anndemeulemeester.be anna fassnacht collection www.anna-fassnacht.com anne sofie madsen www.annesofiemadsen.com anrealage www.anrealage.com anthony vaccarello www.anthonyvaccarello.com antonio berardi www.antonioberardi.com anya hindmarch www.anyahindmarch.com atil kutoglu www.atilkutoglu.com atsuro tayama www.atsurotayama.jp balmain www.balmain.com barbara bui www.barbarabui.fr barbara i gongini www.barbaraigongini.dk bora aksu www.boraaksu.com burberry prorsum www.burberry.com by fang www.by-fang.com carven www.carven.fr céline www.celine.fr chalayan www.husseinchalayan.com chanel www.chanel.com charlotte olympia www.charlotteolympia.com chloé www.chloe.com christian dior www.christiandior.fr christian wijnants www.christianwijnants.be christophe guillarmé www.christopheguillarme.fr christopher kane www.christopherkane.co.uk coach www.coach.com comme des garçons www.comme-des-garcons.com courrèges www.courreges.com d. swarovski & co. www.swarovski.com/ professional daks www.daks.com david koma www.davidkoma.com…

For the second time, the designer, Christophe Guillarmé, chose to present his collection at the Atelier Renault on the Champs-Elysées, thus consecrating the collaboration established between the two. Psyche, the goddess of the soul, was the star of the collection that Christophe Guillarmé interpreted in a modern key, highlighting the dualism it represents between the conscious and unconscious in an image perfectly in tune with the female mystery. An ambiguity that translates into strategically placed laser-cut large motifs, into the weaves of large stripes, into taffeta in floor-skimming skirts. Graphic elements in black and white, a duplexity that is reminiscent of yin & yang for dresses that outline the body with ease, or lacy patterns that rest gracefully to outline hips and their lengths. From transparencies, from background colors in…

Inspired by the Arctic and glacial landscapes of Scandinavia, the collection designed by Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos defines fluid silhouettes created with panels, drapings, circular cuts, and valances. Embroideries influenced by Nordic folklore, which dictates a delicate and surreal color palette dedicated to the tundra and the aurora borealis, are spread over precise rationalist shapes, a hallmark of the brand. Si ispira ai paesaggi artici e glaciali della Scandinavia la collezione disegnata da Peter Pilotto e Cristopher de Vos, che definiscono silhouette fluide costruite con pannelli, drappeggi, tagli circolari e volants. Sulle precise geometrie di stampo razionalista, segno distintivo del marchio, vengono spalmati ricami influenzati dal folklore nordico, che detta una palette cromatica delicata e surreale dedicata alla tundra e all’aurora boreale.…

The Dries Van Noten woman for the 2016 F/W Collection is a kind of a Marchesa Casati with heavily made-up eyes who raids the wardrobe of Gabriele d’Annunzio. True luxury consisting in regimental pyjamas, polka dot dressing gowns, dresses, spotted jackets and coats, smooth silk velvet, fur collars, sequined embroidery, and early twentieth century collegial jackets. The best of all? A skirt and sweater outfit covered with sequins, and fur collar that shimmers in the night. Perfect. La donna di Dries Van Noten è una sorta di Marchesa Casati con gli occhi bistrati che fa razzia nel guardaroba di Gabriele d’Annunzio. Vero lusso formato da pigiami regimental, vestaglie a pois, abiti, giacche e cappotti maculati, velluti lisci in seta, colli di pelliccia, ricami di paillettes, giacche da collegiale primi ‘900.…

The aptly named ‘The Patchwork’ collection is an eclectic homage to a number of British artists, musicians and historical figures. It plays with several military references and art-related inspirations creating a great variety of different looks by using floral metallic brocades, geometric jacquards, mohair checks and plaids, sheepskin with python skin details, lightweight lamé, slightly oversize volumes, pleats and folds, the right amount of contemporary eccentricity and individuality. The varied and intriguing colour palette comprises among others of rich tones of red, sapphire blue, military green, mustard, metallic green/light blue, and gunmetal. ‘The Patchwork’ è il titolo perfetto per un’eclettica collezione che fa riferimento e prende ispirazione da diversi artisti, musicisti e personaggi storici britannici. Giocando con lo stile militare e componenti d’estrazione artistica, Christopher Bailey crea una gamma di…

Velvets and tweeds. As dictated by the new wave, feminine sensuality is accompanied by ever so masculine rustic English fabrics. A very interesting effect where, in the DNA of the Maison, the combination creates new desirable harmonies. Military accents and flap pockets on short jackets, glued to the body - like several pants with satin bands, reminiscent of certain uniforms - or sit softly. The color palette is a hymn to Flemish paintings, where burgundy accompanies greens that are intense, dark, but bright, and fuchsia unexpectedly surfaces like striated tulips. Velluti e tweed. Come vuole la nuova onda la sensualità femminile si accompagna ai rustici tessuti inglesi, così maschili, un effetto molto interessante, dove il connubio, nel DNA della Maison, crea nuove armonie, desiderabili. Accenni militari, e sono pattine alle…

Pure lines and geometric shapes inspired by Josef Hoffman’s architectural projects are the points of reference for this new collection presented during Fashion Weeks in both Paris and Oporto. Generous volumes that envelop the body alternate with an entirely feminine fluidity, thanks to the silky satins of tank-top dresses. Laces and origami effects are innovative and interpreted in shades of lustrous and soft creams and blacks. Linee pure e forme geometriche ispirate ai progetti archittettonici di Josef Hoffman sono i punti di riferimento di questa nuova collezione presentata sia a Parigi, sia ad Oporto, durante le rispettive fashion week. I volumi ampi, che vanno ad avvolgere il corpo, si alternano ad una fluidità tutta al femminile, grazie ai setosi satin degli abiti a canotta, mentre sono innovativi i pizzi e…

The Belgian duo has chosen London to present its new collection, always full of emotion: a touch of bondage and behold, belts transform into new turbans. At the forefront, denim in a jeans version, also bermudas, slightly worn, and sweatshirts become the stars of the catwalk, declaring themselves a fundamental garment, even in the most sophisticated wardrobe. Sheepskin jackets and furs, always revised and corrected as dictated by the Maison, alongside poignant velvets that interpret casual-looking, yet, incredibly chic garments. Il duo belga ha scelto Londra per presentare la nuova collezione, sempre ricca di emozioni: un tocco bondage ed ecco che le cinture si trasformano in nuovi turbanti. In prima linea il denim versione jeans, anche bermuda, appena vissuto, e le felpe che diventano star della passerella, dichiarandosi un capo…

Demna Gvasalia signs his first collection as creative director of Balenciaga. The more that renowned designer has a series of very respectable experiences in his past. Off Georgian origin, raised in Germany and graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, he took his first steps in the fashion world with Walter van Beirendonck, then Margiela, and later Louis Vuitton. He is also the founder of the Vetements brand, much loved in the fashion system. A true success. On the runway, all the oversized possible and many references to his professional career. Demna Gvasalia firma la sua prima collezione come direttore creativo di Balenciaga. Alle spalle del più che celebre designer, una serie di esperienze di tutto rispetto. Di orgini georgiane, cresciuto in Germania e diplomato alla Royal…

Volumes and materials. An encore for the designer, Chitose Abe, the undisputed master of forms in their construction and deconstruction, for the Sacai collection. Silhouettes that are defined and rendered graphic by zippers, ribbons, straps, and metal buckles. Bold shades of purple, navy, and burgundy in contrast with green, yellow, and mustard accents. Leitmotif of the entire line, a message: “Love Will Save The Day”. A stylistic statement now embroidered on warm down jackets, and applied to midi-skirts in pleated chiffon and lustrous velvet. Volumi e materiali: la collezione di Sacai vede la designer Chitose Abe ancora una volta come maestra indiscussa delle forme nella loro costruzione e decostruzione. Silhouette definite e rese grafiche da giochi di zip, nastri, cinghie e fibbie metalliche; tonalità decise di viola, navy e bordeaux…

The Collection by Pascal Millet stems from a premise: the will to unite and combine a spirit that is a bit preppy and snobbish with one that is truly glamorous, an authentic style. A harmony that is formed by colors, where the neutral tones of navy, khaki, grey, and black are illuminated by a new vitality, coordinated with vibrant reds. A touch of rock is given by a mix of materials: pearl and crystal embroideries, fearthers and jersey appliqués, and sequined tulle together with leather and PVC. A theatrical embrace between chicness and modernity. La collezione di Pascal Millet nasce da una premessa: la volontà di unire e coniugare uno spirito un po’ preppy e snob a quello che è il vero glamour, il vero stile. Un’armonia che si forma…

An air of old England, set in an Edwardian atmosphere, here, a series of outfits appears. New and antique pantsuits, if they can be defined as such, where jackets are tailcoats with elusive lapels, exposing white shirts with lace jabots, something Lord Brummel would have liked. Short pants and boxing sneakers on feet, alongside a series of terribly sexy slip dresses in creamy silks, and others in an empire style, destined for supple bodies, which Ingres would have liked to have painted. As creative director, Bill Gaytten, who truly knows the history of the brand. Aria di vecchia Inghilterra, immersi in atmosfere edoardiane ecco apparire una serie di completi, nuovi e antichi tailleur pantalone, se così li possiamo definire, dove le giacche sono marsine dai revers sfuggenti per mettere in…

Inspired by an urban modern lifestyle, by FANG’s Fall/Winter collection studies layers and contrasts between city and nature, between technology and tradition. Skylines that translate into a complex play on pleats and geometric patterns: interwoven stripes, and checks in extremely graphic black and white, are now matched with delicate prints in shades of green and vivid oversaturated reds. Organic fabrics and feminine silhouettes framed by an architecture of impeccable origami, a favorite of the label. A stylistic dialogue between metropolis and natural landscape. Prendendo ispirazione da uno stile di vita urbano e moderno, l’autunno/inverno di by FANG studia sovrapposizioni e contrasti fra città e natura, fra tecnica e tradizione. Skyline che si traducono in un complesso gioco di plissè e pattern geometrici: intrecci di righe e quadri in un black…

Philippe Périssé loves the audacious and impertinent appearance of women. That unforgettable, charismatic image, that typically Parisian allure, that “je ne sais quoi”, that free spirit who, with refined irony, subtly plays with sensuality. It is no wonder that he has a fondness for a military style, a passion for Mucha, and the American illustrators of the forties. With his purpose to “reveal an innate beauty and feminine aura”, he launched the label that bears his name, with structured silhouettes, wide shoulders, and soft hips. Philippe Périssé delle donne ama l’aspetto audace ed impertinente, quell’immagine carismatica che non si dimentica, quell’allure tipicamente parigino, “je ne sais quoi”, lo spirito libero che con raffinata ironia gioca sottilmente con la sensualità. Nessuna meraviglia quindi per la sua predilezione per lo stile militare,…

Layers and contrasts for the Barbara I Gongini Collection dedicated to next winter and inspired by the coastlines and fjords of northern Europe. Silhouettes are graphic and architectural: pieces are worn exalting layers in a perfect mix of softness and rigid, sustained structures. Fine textures and materials, from leather to chiffon, from fur to linen: harmonic antitheses are reflected on the colour palette, with black and white the undisputed stars among typographic elements and maxi scarves, backpacks, and bags. Sovrapposizioni e contrasti per la collezione di Barbara I Gongini dedicata al prossimo inverno, ispirata alle coste e ai fiordi dell’Europa del nord. Le silhouette sono grafiche e architettoniche: i capi si indossano esaltando le sovrapposizioni, in un perfetto mix fra morbidezza e strutture rigide e sostenute. Texture e materiali preziosi…

A collection that is a story somewhere between a dystopic future and a return to nature. The Sofia Nogard woman strips herself of all the frills of a modernity that is often pushed to the limit, and she does so by setting aside the virtual and preferring the material, the concrete, the tangible. Frayed hems and visible seams that impart an air of experience, emphasizing elongated silhouettes, while a knowing mix-and-match of fabrics, structures, and colors combine with the roughness of natural textures and the softness of fur and velvet. Blacks, purples, and blues join coppery accents. Una collezione che è un racconto a metà fra un futuro distopico e un ritorno alla natura. La donna di Sofia Nogard si spoglia degli orpelli di una modernità spesso portata al limite,…

A harmony of contrasts that evolves smooth and relaxed, ultra feminine clothes and masculine tailoring blend effortlessly, suggesting stylistic paradigms that find their balance in severity softened by imbalances and asymmetries. Tapered volumes and clear shapes define graphical and mobile silouhettes, whose lack of collars and buttons becomes their strong point. An assertive chromatic palette, interrupted by flashes of colour and geometric patterns. Un’armonia di contrasti che si evolve in maniera fluida e disinvolta, abiti iper femminili e tailoring maschile si integrano senza sforzo, raccontando paradigmi stilistici che trovano equilibrio in una severità ammorbidita da sbilanciamenti e asimmetrie. Volumi affusolati e forme nette definiscono silhouette grafiche e mobili, che scoprono nella sottrazione di colli e bottoni il punto di forza. Palette cromatica assertiva, interrotta da flash di colore e pattern…

The Bloom Contest carries all the freshness of spring, the promise of new beginnings. The project, launched in 2010, quickly became the living soul of Portugal Fashion: an event within the event. An opportunity reserved for recently graduated, young designers, and one that gains kudos every year among the public and the media. A great number of design schools push their best talents towards participating in the annual selection: continuous dynamism, always unique approaches, a young freshness loved by Portugal Fashion, which has made the search for a constant generational transformation a true antidote for stagnation, its forte. After a difficult selection, eight designers will see their creations presented on the runways of Portugal Fashion. In 2016, it marked the Fall/Winter debut for Amorphous, Beatriz Bettencourt, David Catalan, Fii, Inês…

Maurizio Francesconi SANDRA MANSOUR For years, Lebanon has been one of the major fashion centers in the world, with a style and know-how that ranges from street wear to haute couture. The young Sandra Mansour is closer to the latter of the two worlds, offering a collection that could be called prêt-à-couture and which demonstrates the great talent this young girl possesses. Her creativity unites what a young person like herself seeks with a technical and sartorial knowledge learned during her internship with Elie Saab. Her pieces are inspired by the world of art, and the graphics of her prints are of a rare elegance, without forgetting that her clothes are a bridge between the very refined Lebanese reality and the demands of a girl who could live anywhere in…

The Norwegian Fashion Hub is an organization that supports Norwegian fashion within the country and internationally, its purpose is to strengthen the development of the fashion industry. Norwegian Fashion hub is an Industry-cluster and platform for cooperation amongst Norwegian fashion businesses, developing the Norwegian fashion industry to towards a serious, sustainable and value-creating industry in Norway and to gain international recognition. Represented are four of the most promising Norwegian labels supported by the Norwegian Fashion Hub from their Oslo Runway show in February. Elisabeth Stray Pedersen brought her fourth collection onto the runway with 15 ready-to-wear, androgynous looks, and a preference towards overlapping wool fabrics. The designer drew from the archives of the company, Lillunn, acquired in April 2015, which specializes in the manufacturing of high quality jackets and coats.…

A cutting-edge collection that the Spanish fashion house, Isabel Sanchis, dedicated to this upcoming winter. Old tailoring techniques give birth to geometric shapes with a modern appeal, such as an origami effect and complex architectural structures. Innovation and sophistication go hand-in-hand in pieces of refined elegance, capable of meeting the needs of the most demanding clients. A love for natural elements emerges from the floral prints on silk gazar and in the rigorously handmade embroidery. Romance and grace, strength and determination, come together in an harmonious ensemble in formalwear, where white and black predominate with a unique combination of materials and patterns. Metallic reflections are enough to impart a futuristic allure. Twenty years of experience in this category led the company, based in Valencia, to create clothing with an impeccable…

Vivid and cinematographic, like a western directed by the great Baz Luhrmann, the magician of color. Mary Katrantzou transforms the catwalk in a jubilation of stars, hearts, and big multicolored butterflies in a game of pop colors and Texan inspired patterns. Light, billowing skirts with wide stripes and chevrons are worn with cowgirl shirts, embellished with sparkling appliqués or patchwork details. Tulle and mink are combined with tweed and wool, for a masculine texture and, then, jackets, blouses, and Nappa accessories, for a feminine, yet, invariably chic biker. Accesa e cinematografica, come un film western diretto dal grande Baz Luhrmann, il mago dei colori: Mary Katrantzou trasforma la passerella in un tripudio di stelle, cuori e grandi farfalle variopinte in un gioco di tinte pop e fantasie d’ispirazione texana. Gonne…

John Galliano designed the Fall/Winter collection for Maison Margiela and did so in tune with the historic spirit of the brand, embracing high fashion and artistic recycling, which are dear to Martin Margiela, and reinterpreting everything with a modern, subverted twist. Galliano designs and creates forms to then despoil and deconstruct them. A succession of contrasts that are studied and, at the same time, emotional and spontaneous, both in silhouettes and materials: fil coupé and velvet, sequins and flannel, transparent lurex and ribbed wool. A perfect poetic hybridization. John Galliano firma l’autunno/inverno di Maison Margiela: lo fa entrando in sintonia con lo spirito storico del brand, abbracciando l’alta sartoria ed il riciclo artistico cari a Martin Margiela e reinterpretando il tutto in chiave moderna, sovvertiva. La mano di Galliano disegna…

This season, the young Parisian who has always inspired Isabel Marant reminds us of the typical 80s club look, made up of leopard print jackets, glencheck, plaid prints, argyle sweaters, chiffon, printed pants, miniskirts, and waxed raincoats. Marant is perhaps the best when she offers a constantly and never boring version of her idea of a Parisian look. The best part? Her oversized coats in wool felt. In one word: perfect. La giovane parigina a cui sempre si ispira Isabel Marant, per questa stagione ci ricorda il look clubbing tipico degli anni ’80, fatto di giubbotti maculati, Principe di Galles, stampe a quadri, maglioni argyle, chiffon, pantaloni stampati, minigonne e impermeabili cerati. La Marant è forse la migliore nel darci una versione sempre nuova e mai noiosa della sua idea…

Asymmetries, stripes, laser incisions, and layering: Portuguese creativeness, accustomed to experimentation, defines a contemporary and courageous figure, enveloped in clothes that flirt with art and design, in its synthetic graphics and in its workmanship. Dresses with impeccable structures and a masterful essence, which love lengths and volumes, in an antithesis with each other. The color palette, assertive and sophisticated, focuses on classic shades of black and gray, with touches of cornflower blue. Asimmetrie, righe, incisioni al laser e sovrapposizioni: il creativo portoghese, abituato alla sperimentazione, definisce una figura contemporanea e coraggiosa, avvolta in capi che flirtano con l’arte e con il design nelle grafiche sintetiche e nelle lavorazioni, abiti dalle costruzioni impeccabili e dalla natura performante, che amano lunghezze e volumi in antitesi tra loro. La palette cromatica, assertiva e…

Very Saint Laurent is the collection designed by Hedi Slimane, creative director of the Maison, and photographer with a distinct artistic sensibility, demonstrated in some of the stunning images we will show you. A pret-a-porter collection that passionately flirts with the Haute Courure of yesteryear. Everything is perfect, the antithesis of the concept of experience with an underground flavor, which is dear to Hedi, at least until the last season, when the girls, little bad girls, did not like the hairdresser. In its own way, it becomes a sexy collection with an eighties style. Minis like a second skin, bustiers with perfect draping, balloon skirts and a touch of rock that delights it all, with a leather biker jacket that’s now oversized. Molto Saint Laurent la collezione progettata da Hedi…

A few weeks ago, the finalists of the prestigious LVMH Award were announced: among the candidates was the name of Glenn Martens (the creative mind behind the interesting Y/Project brand), who I had the pleasure of interviewing during Paris Fashion Week. Belgian from Bruges, Martens was born in May 1983 and graduated in 2008 from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. In 2013, he took the reins of the Y/Project brand with menswear, to which was added women’s wear in 2014. His 2016 F/W Collection groups together the best in the world of street wear and underground, combined with a technical and design capacity at a couturier level, in the highest sense of the word. Shirts, sweaters, blouses, and coats with long ribbons draping the sleeves and on…

The continuous search for poetry brings Simon Porte Jacquemus towards a world that is reminiscent of the 90s, made up of conceptual, two-dimensional garments, of draping and tailor-made coats in shades of white and yellow or squares on a blue background with a madras print, like tablecloths seen in the south of France on tables near the pétanque court. Impressive is the ability he has demonstrated in knowing how to diagonally cut an outfit, then joining it together with ribbons. Conceptual and well-made. La continua ricerca di poesia porta Simon Porte Jacquemus verso un mondo che ricorda gli anni ’90 fatto di capi concettuali e bidimensionali, di drappeggi e cappotti sartoriali sui toni del bianco, giallo o a riquadri su fondo blu con una stampa madras, che ricorda quelle delle…

In the year of the 45th anniversary of Issey Miyake’s career, creative director, Yoshiyuki Miyamae, brings a kaleidoscopic collection onto the catwalk, made up of stripes and more, of the finest pleats - as always - that flirt with an almost sci-fi world, but also an ethnic one. The designer proposes pleated pieces, with a semblance of crumpled sheets of paper covering the bodies of the runway models, while wonderful capes bring to mind the early ‘90s. Nell’anno del 45° anniversario della carriera di Issey Miyake, il direttore creativo Yoshiyuki Miyamae porta sulla passerella una collezione caleidoscopica, fatta di righe e non solo, dei plissé migliori (come sempre), che strizza l’occhio ad un mondo quasi fantascientifico ma anche a quello etnico. Lo stilista ci offre capi con una lavorazione plissé…

A seductive woman of action, a sort of spy, sure of her own sensuality. A femme fatale. A bit of a black widow and a bit of a Hitchcock heroine. For her winter Collection, not surprisingly called “Spyder”, Maria Aristidou has designed creations capable of amplifying the innate power of any woman, leading her to be the star of every situation. Luxurious fabrics, like Lurex knits, with exclusively handmade motifs that accompany clean, modern lines. Reversible coats with impeccable cuts for a refined elegance, from morning to evening. Una seducente donna d’azione, una sorta di spia sicura della propria sensualità, una femme fatale un po’ vedova nera e un po’ eroina hitchcockiana: per la sua collezione invernale, non a caso dal titolo “Spyder”, Maria Aristidou ha disegnato creazioni in grado…

A collection ever more special that borders on haute couture not only because of the grace of the proposals but also because of an inherent concept of femininity, ever so ethereal and with a strong romantic vein. The inspiration is partly taken from the world of lingerie of yesteryear, precious and impalpable for creatures as light as butterflies, ready to take flight. The materials are like gusts of zephyr: silks, satins, lace with beads and sequins that give a touch of light. Statement volumes for the outerwear, as dictated by the Maison, which remains faithful to the originally masculine concept of tailoring. Una collezione sempre più speciale che sfiora l’alta sartoria, non solo per la grazia delle proposte, ma per l’insito concetto di femminilità, così eterea e dalle venature romantiche.…

Inspired by the Seventies, Gosia Baczyńska’s collection draws from the gypsy and disco cultures of the time, from sartorial liberties, and more, taking a leap back to discover memories and translate them into pieces with a fresh and contemporary attitude. Printed sequins, gradating cascades of colored pleats, feathers, glitter, and metallic radiance. An authentic, modern luxury, which flirts with craftsmanship and precious materials, painted lace and silk, and strictly handmade knitwear. Ispirata agli anni Settanta, la collezione firmata da Gosia Baczyńska si rifa alla cultura gipsy e disco di quel periodo, alla liberta sartoriale, e non solo, di quegli anni, facendo un balzo indietro per scoprire i suoi ricordi e tradurli in capi dall’attitudine fresca e contemporanea. Paillette stampate, cascate degrade di pieghe colorate, piume, glitter e bagliori metallici: un…

Sporty chic is the connection created by Phillip Lim in the 2016 prefall collection. In the typical style and tailoring of the most comfortable clothing, the young footballers lean over clothes of designed shapes, tight cable stitch jumpers combined with bright fabric short skirts that reveal a penchant for tight sportswear in their details. Elegant patterns for the trouser suits, sometimes with a high waist, on which they wear coats/parkas closed by long zippers. Sporty chic è la connessione creata da Phillip Lim nella prefall 2016. Nello stile e nei tagli tipici dell’abbigliamento più comfort piccoli bomber si appoggiano su abiti dalle forme studiate, aderenti pull a trecce si accostano a corte gonne in tessuto lucido che nei dettagli svelano una predilezione per il tight sportswear. Eleganti nelle fantasie i…

It is the Dutch Golden Age that inspired the Rundholz collection and does so in its highest expression: painting. So, what is one of the most lively and acclaimed art scenes conveys all its essence to the creations of the German label. Clothing is transformed into masterpieces, and paintings come to life, thanks to a play on lights artfully created with ruffles, asymmetrical cuts, and zippers. Contrasting colours, with a baroque feel, in a continuous overlapping of textures and volumes, reminiscent of skillful strokes, worthy of Vermeer. È il Secolo d’Oro olandese ad ispirare la collezione di Rundholz: lo fa nella sua espressione più alta, la pittura, per cui quello che è uno degli ambienti artistici più vivi e acclamati trasmette tutta la propria essenza alle creazioni del brand tedesco.…

An attention to essentials in well-designed, exclusively tailored silhouettes. Fully defined, accurate details in the collection by Yigal Azrouël. Recollections of a Victorian style, not ever nostalgic, in the lacework, in soft velvets, in impalpable silks, in the poplins, in romantic white shirts, in the lace that evokes the motifs of stylized leaves, perhaps an homage to nature. Soft pants worn with a biker-like jacket or a leather bustier, reviving the image of a romantically modern woman. Attenzione all’essenziale nelle silhouette ben disegnate di esclusiva sartorialità, è tutto definito, accurato nei dettagli nella collezione di Yigal Azrouël. Un richiamo allo stile vittoriano, mai nostalgico, è nei merletti, nei morbidi velluti, nelle sete impalpabili, nei popeline, nelle romantiche candide camicie, nei pizzi che riprendo il motivo di foglie stilizzate, forse omaggio…

Three pillars of Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear are the foundation of the Maison’s collection: a neoclassical style - connected hand-in-glove with the heritage of the label, purely French, in the highest sense of the word; a vocation for luxury sportswear - encounter between a love for sophistication and the active, fresh spirit of the modern woman; a search for adventure - a dream, still viable in a new world, where everything is possible. A collection with a fluid, yet, always consistent style. A unique journey through the prism of emotion that shines in every woman. Tre colonne portanti del prêt-à-porter di Louis Vuitton alla base della collezione della Maison: stile neoclassico, legato a doppio filo al patrimonio ereditario del marchio, puramente francese nel senso più alto del termine; vocazione per lo…

Stuart Vevers plays with leather and sheepskin creating a young and contemporary look. Lengths are shortened dramatically. It is best to show off the legs even in the cold weather and stay warm with short furs, biker jackets, sheepskin coats with leather panels, patchwork macro vests. Prints win over colour blocking and take turns with stripes and studs. Trousers? Maybe another time. Stuart Vevers gioca con pelle e montone per un’immagine giovane e contemporanea. Le lunghezze si accorciano drasticamente, meglio mostrare le gambe anche nella stagione fredda e scaldarsi con pellicciotti, chiodi, montoni con inserti in pelle e macro gilet in versione patchwork. Le stampe vincono sul color blocking e si alternano a righe e borchie. Pantaloni? Magari un’altra volta. www.coach.com…

The magnificent geometries of the Maison come to life in new splendour and become psychedelic. Between past and future, the collection becomes perfect. To mix colours and to adore a look with wonderfully extravagant hints are concepts with a strong personality that create a special look. As if by magic the archival prints take on a brand new soul alongside original graphic traits. And it is immediately fashion. Le magnifiche geometrie della Maison rivivono in un nuovo splendore e si fanno psichedeliche. Fra passato e futuro, la collezione diventa perfetta. Mixare i colori, amare un look dagli accenni stupendamente stravaganti sono concetti che hanno una forte personaliità e disegnano un look speciale. Come per incanto le stampe d’archivio assumono un’anima inedita e si accompagnano a tratti grafici inediti. Ed è…

Color transforms into prints and patterns with a dynamic and fun look. Everything is dedicated to joy and effervescence for a creative wardrobe with a strong personality. Male and female, color and black and white, short and long, a game of contrasts that defines a fresh and contemporary collection, attentive to the dictates of the moment and realized with a painstaking attention to detail. Il colore viene declinato in stampe e pattern dal piglio dinamico e divertente, tutto è all’insegna dell’allegria e dell’effervescenza, per un guardaroba creativo e dalla forte personalità. Maschile e femminile, colore e bianco e nero, corto e lungo, un gioco di contrasti che definisce una collezione fresca e contemporanea, attenta ai diktat del momento e realizzata con maniacale cura dei dettagli. www.aliceandolivia.com…

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COLLEZIONI DONNA prêt-à-porter A complete overview of Milan, Paris, New York and London Fashion Week. The runway shows from all around the world are examined through a precise analysis and with a focus on the most important catwalk shows of the season. The “Lookbooks” section is dedicated to the more interesting resort collections. Exhibitions, books, street style and everything else that is fashion. Una panoramica completa delle fashion week di Milano, Parigi, New York, Londra. Le passerelle di tutto il mondo sono raccontate attraverso una precisa analisi delle tendenze e con un focus sulle sfilate più significative della stagione. Neall sezione “Lookbooks” le collezioni resort più interessanti. Mostre, libri e street style. Tutto quanto è di moda. 4 issues per year 4 numeri all’anno COLLEZIONI HAUTE COUTURE & Sposa All…