Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2021 i Britain

As Britain begins to emerge into a new spring, we are more ready than ever to embrace the season’s life-affirming joys. This issue, we smell the roses (literally) in the blooming gardens of Kent and Sussex (Wonders of the Weald, p14) and explore the quaint, lost-in-time villages of Lincolnshire (Hidden England, p66). We also look back at the heyday of the great British seaside getaway, beloved of buttoned-up Victorian ladies and gents for its collar-loosening effects (Beside the seaside, p30). And we ponder the history of money and minting – once a murky business that even tarnished Henry VIII (Coin of the realm, p39). Now that stately homes are reopening, join us for a spin around four historic houses (Stately splendour, p22), and get an insider’s view from Tracy Borman,…

GETTING THERE AND AROUND All of the gardens are less than an hour from London by train, then a short taxi ride; see the individual gardens’ websites for information. Seeing multiple gardens is easiest on a self-drive tour, perhaps over the course of two or three days. Alternatively, there are tour companies that will organise the transport and accommodation for you and guide you around, including Brightwater Holidays, Flora Garden Tours and Classic England. www.thetrainline.com; www.brightwaterholidays.com; www.flora-garden-tours.com; www.classic-england.com WHERE TO STAY AND EAT Gravetye Manor is the perfect hotel for garden enthusiasts, with historic gardens created by William Robinson in 1885 and luxurious country-house-style rooms. The Michelin-starred restaurant uses produce from the hotel’s kitchen garden in dishes such as Creedy Carver duck with lavender, honey and parsnip. www.gravetyemanor.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION…

Check the houses’ websites for information on opening times. Chiswick House Lord Burlington’s splendid Palladian villa has 65 acres of gardens to explore. www.chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk Osterley Park and House A handsome Georgian country estate surrounded by formal gardens and parkland. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Syon Park The London home of the Dukes of Northumberland for more than 400 years, Syon Park boasts a fine art collection. www.syonpark.co.uk Ham House This atmospheric 17th-century mansion is reputed to be one of Britain’s most haunted houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk…

The Royal Mint Experience Displays tell the story of The Royal Mint, and fascinating guided tours of the Llantrisant factory reveal processes involved in creating coins. www.royalmint.com The Royal Mint Museum An important research resource (by appointment), the Llantrisant museum boasts nearly 100,000 coins, 50,000 master tools and dies, plus other coin-related materials. www.royalmintmuseum.org.uk The Ashmolean The Oxford Crown (1644), produced when Charles I had an HQ and temporary mint in the city during the Civil War, is just one highlight of the Oxford museum's Money Gallery. www.ashmolean.org/money-gallery Bank of England Museum Located within the Bank of England in the City of London, the museum tells the story of the bank since its foundation in 1694, from handwritten bank notes and wooden tally sticks to electronic systems. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum The British…

GETTING THERE Fast trains run from London Kings Cross to Lincoln (2hrs). A bus network covers most places of interest in the county. www.thetrainline.com; www.lincsbus.info WHERE TO STAY There’s no shortage of old-world inns in this lost-in-time county. The Angel and Royal in Grantham is, indeed, a contender for England’s oldest inn. Currently being refurbished, it was originally built as hostel for the Knights Templar, and King John held court there in 1213. Alternatively, base yourself in pretty Stamford, where The George is wonderfully old-fashioned, with an ivy-clad exterior and a maze of cosy rooms. www.angelandroyal.co.uk; www.georgehotelofstamford.com WHERE TO EAT For a vintage afternoon tea, head to Lady Rose’s in Lincoln, where tea is served in the style of the great houses of the Edwardian era. Frilly-aproned waitresses and period…

Life after Gravity: Isaac Newton’s London Career by Patricia Fara (£25, Oxford University Press). This new biography overturns the idea that Newton cared little about money and fame. Great Britain’s Railways: A New History by Colin Maggs (£12.99, Amberley Books). An expert's take on 400 years of British railway history, with a look to its future too. The Crichel Boys: Scenes from England’s Last Literary Salon by Simon Fenwick (£25, Constable). The biography of a house in Dorset that became a hub of literary and creative activity. John Keats: Poetry, Life and Landscapes by Suzie Grogan (£19.99, Pen & Sword). Grogan places Keats and his poetry clearly on the map, tracing his short life through the UK, from London to the Lakes and beyond. Magnificent Women and their Revolutionary Machines…

Sissinghurst The magnificent White Garden is at its peak in July, with an all-white display of gladioli, irises and pompom dahlias. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Scotney Castle Visit in spring to admire the view of the ruined castle through clouds of pink rhododendrons. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Great Dixter Highlight of this wonderful Arts and Crafts garden is its Long Border, bursting with colour throughout the summer. www.greatdixter.co.uk Pashley Manor Gardens Visit in late April or early May for the spectacular Tulip Festival, with tulips planted in themed garden ‘rooms’. www.pashleymanorgardens.com Wakehurst April and May see swathes of bluebells carpeting the woodlands at Wakehurst. www.kew.org/wakehurst Borde Hill Garden Visit in June or July to experience the Rose Garden at its sweetly scented best. www.bordehill.co.uk Nymans In February Nymans’ magnolia trees start to blossom, while the arboretum…

The King’s Witch What has been the highlight of your time as joint Chief Curator at Historic Royal Palaces? There have been so many! It’s a close-run thing, but meeting the Duchess of Cambridge when she came to open the Magic Garden at Hampton Court Palace was probably the most memorable and special, particularly as my daughter presented her with a bouquet. The Duchess was so lovely and I chatted to her for a long time – I took about a million photos and have dined out on it ever since! What are you working on right now? Gold and Glory: Henry VIII and the French King As Historic Royal Palaces is an independent charity, we really rely on the income from visitors to help us care for these incredible…

GETTING THERE There are irregular Avanti West Coast trains that run direct from London Euston to Shrewsbury in around 2hr 30min. Alternatively, at least every hour you can catch a train to Crewe, and change there for Shrewsbury (2hr 45min). www.avantiwestcoast.co.uk; www.thetrainline.com EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Packed with artisanal delis and quirky cafés, you will be spoilt for choice. For a top-notch sandwich, try Philpotts, who are award-winning and charmingly situated in the 15th-century Abbots House along Butcher Row. Nearby is Number Four, where there is the option to be seated outside on the cobbles, or you could try the newbie on the block, The Orchard Cafe, set in the cathedral grounds. The only AA four-star hotel in the town centre, the Prince Rupert Hotel is the pick of the bunch.…

As lovers of Britain, its countryside and its history, your magazine has given us many hours of pleasure over the years. Back in 2001 and 2005 we got to spend a few unforgettable weeks over there. Now in our retirement, we decided to build this model train layout [right], highlighting some of the most memorable places we visited on our travels. An ongoing project of course, and a true labour of love! Rich & Jill Bailey, Juneau, Alaska, USA WRITE TO US! By post: Letters, BRITAIN, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ Via email: editor@britain-magazine.com FOLLOW US! Twitter: @BritainMagazine Instagram: @britain_magazine Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/britainmagazine…

As well as palaces, parks and parliamentary buildings, the British capital is dotted with a number of splendid stately homes. West London seems to have more than its fair share, no doubt explained by its proximity to the Thames and ease of access into town. These westernmost reaches offer a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of central London, but rewind 300 or so years, and they would have represented a proper rural retreat. For today’s visitors, an easy day-trip provides an authentic taste of life to the manor born. Nestled between two of London’s busy arteries, heading towards Heathrow airport and into the city centre, Chiswick House is a striking, chalk-white mansion set in exquisite gardens. Built in 1729 in the neo-Palladian style, with a six-columned entrance reached…

Retail chaos, confusion and even riots had been predicted. But when Britain finally adopted decimal coinage in 1971 the transition proved surprisingly smooth. Fifty years on, with many people having known nothing different, you can be forgiven for wondering what all the delays and fuss had been about. Proposals for decimal coin systems had been made in Britain as far back as the late 17th century – Sir Christopher Wren was one notable fan – and a decimal lobby in the Victorian era had managed to secure the introduction of a florin (worth one-tenth of a pound) in 1849. But it took until the 1960s, with Britain in danger of being the only major country in the world without a decimal currency, for the government to decide to replace the…

“I have left no immortal work behind me...if I had had time I would have made myself remember’d” fretted John Keats before his untimely death in February 1821. Much maligned by contemporary reviewers, a long-term legacy was unimaginable to the 25-year-old former surgeon. Yet 200 years on, he is one of Britain’s best-loved bards. Far from leaving no imprint on the world, his poetry has left its mark on hearts and minds, and his life a matching imprint on the house in Hampstead he once called home. Now preserved as a living memorial to his creative genius, it’s one of our pick of poets’ houses to visit around the UK. JOHN KEATS No object better explains why John Keats treasured the brief period he spent living at Wentworth Place, an…

GETTING THERE There are direct flights from London, the US and Canada to Glasgow Airport, 8 miles southwest of the city. Trains from London Euston run hourly and take from 4hr 40min.glasgowairport.com; thetrainline.com WHERE TO STAY The Kimpton Blythswood Square is the ultimate in luxury, with contemporary interiors and a top-notch spa, all set in a beautiful Georgian building. For a more intimate bolthole, try 15 Glasgow, a boutique B&B with original features in a tranquil garden square.kimptonblythswoodsquare.com; 15glasgow.com WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK For high-end Scottish dining, book a table at Cail Bruich, one of the city’s best restaurants, whose tasting menus are bursting with locally sourced produce, some of which is sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. Alternatively, head for Glasgow’s foodie strip in the Finnieston area. Try…