Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2020 i Britain

The current crisis has made armchair travellers of us all. Now is the time to draw on uplifting memories of holidays past, and to dream of future trips. In this issue we explore some old favourites, such as Cornwall, whose quaint villages and timeless landscapes are always balm for the soul (A Roseland romance, p14). England’s cathedrals have withstood world wars, plagues and any number of tumultuous events with stony stoicism; we celebrate their enduring beauty in a dedicated feature (To be a pilgrim, p24). And with Britain’s stately homes forced to close their doors for the duration of the pandemic, we’ve taken solace in exploring their literary counterparts (Fact or fiction, p56), and managed a pre-lockdown peek at Dumfries House (A princely plan, p40), which was saved for the…

GETTING THERE There are regular trains from London Paddington to Truro station (4hr 30min), including a sleeper service. Local buses cover the main settlements; from Truro the no. 50 bus serves Portscatho, St Just and St Mawes. www.thetrainline.com; www.travelinesw.com WHERE TO STAY The Nare is a much-loved country house hotel by the sea near Veryan. Traditional and utterly charming, it has elegantly appointed rooms, a comfortable lounge in which to relax with afternoon tea or read the papers, and a top-notch restaurant with panoramic views of the sea from its floor-to-ceiling windows. In St Mawes, the Idle Rocks is a chic waterfront retreat with a strong foodie reputation: its new head chef honed his skills at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and the hotel puts on tempting foodie breaks.…

GETTING THERE Trains run from London Paddington to Kemble (1hr 15min), from where you can take a taxi to Tetbury, and to Kingham (1hr 20min), a taxi ride from Stow-on-the-Wold. Chorley’s auction house is near Cheltenham Spa station, also reachable from London Paddington (2hr). www.thetrainline.com WHERE TO STAY AND EAT The Frogmill, a beautiful 16th-century inn nestled in the Gloucestershire countryside seven miles from Cheltenham, makes a good base. It has stylishly renovated rooms with lots of luxurious touches, and a good restaurant serving country pub classics as well as more refined fare. www.thefrogmill.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION Chorley’s has several country-house sales a year. The Cotswolds Art & Antique Dealers’ Association (CADA) represents reputable dealers and hosts an annual antiques fair. www.chorleys.com; www.cotswolds-antiques-art.com…

This year marks the 800th anniversary of the coronation of King Henry III. Held at Westminster Abbey in 1220, it was a dignified occasion, followed by a sumptuous feast including some 40 oxen and 4,000 roasted chickens. Yet it was also an odd moment because Henry had already been crowned four years earlier at Gloucester: one of numerous curious aspects to the life of a ruler who today is largely forgotten, even though he reigned for a remarkable 56 years (1216–72). Most people simply recall Henry as the ‘weak king’ pitched against ‘dashing’ Simon de Montfort in the Barons’ War. But there was much more to his eventful life than this. He was just nine years old when his father, King John, died in October 1216, leaving little Henry a…

GETTING THERE Trains run from London St Pancras (journey time 1hr 30min); the station is ten minutes’ walk from the seafront. www.thetrainline.com EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Deal has a handful of comfortable guesthouses, as well as stylish self-catering options such as Georgian townhouse The Lady Hamilton, and a vintage-style boutique hotel, The Rose. History fans should make for the Royal Hotel, where Admiral Nelson and Lady Hamilton are said to have stayed during their passionate affair; if you’re in the mood for romance, plump for a sea-facing room with balcony. Both hotels have restaurants, but as Deal abounds in good places to eat you may want to explore. On the seafront, try 81 Beach Street for fine dining, and the Black Douglas Coffee House for locally sourced food in informal surroundings.…

A VIRTUAL VISIT Ever since I fell in love with your country as an Erasmus student in 1992 I travel to the UK several times a year. However, due to Corona, my Easter plans had to be cancelled. I am afraid my summer plans will not go through either: East Sussex with the children and my parents. With a dear friend I had also planned a two-day garden visit… Even our London-Oxford school trip in May with 90 students had to be cancelled! Going to the UK is like oxygen for me. Your July number [Vol 88 Issue 3] was therefore a real treat. I really enjoyed 1066 Country, A Tale of One City (London), Churchill at Home (I do love Chartwell!), Alice in Wonderland (Oxford), Harrogate (visited with my husband…

The Crown in Crisis: Countdown to the Abdication by Alexander Larman (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £20). The crisis caused by Edward VIII’s marriage to Wallis Simpson in 1936. One Two Three Four: The Beatles in Time by Craig Brown (Fourth Estate, £20). A hilarious new biography of the Fab Four, whose music touched so many, including Queen Elizabeth II. Codebreaking Sisters: Our Secret War by Patricia and Jean Owtram (Mirror Books, £8.99). A courageous story told by the only living sisters to have signed the Official Secrets Act. Circles and Squares: The Lives and Art of the Hampstead Modernists by Caroline Maclean (Bloomsbury Publishing, £30). How a small London suburb launched an entire art movement. Warrior: A Life of War in Anglo-Saxon Britain by Edoardo Albert & Paul Gething (Granta Books,…

Dumfries House, nestled in rural Ayrshire, is a special place. Its jewel-bright rooms hold a precious collection of the furniture of Thomas Chippendale, the acclaimed 18th-century cabinet-maker best known for his mid-Georgian, English Rococo and Neoclassical styles. There are around 600 authenticated Chippendale pieces in the world, with 59 alone within Dumfries House. Today the house is one of Britain’s loveliest stately homes, and a top Scottish visitor attraction – but not long ago, the estate was nearly lost to the British public for good. In 2007 Dumfries House and its grounds were up for sale. Its outstanding collection of furniture was to be scattered, with items sold off to the highest bidder. Bodies such as the National Trust for Scotland had been approached but simply couldn’t take the house…

GETTING THERE Trains run regularly from London Paddington, taking around an hour and a quarter. Buses connect Bristol with numerous cities across the UK, including Cardiff, Leeds, London, Manchester, Nottingham and Newcastle. www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk; uk.megabus.com; www.nationalexpress.co.uk WHERE TO STAY Occupying an 18th-century sugar factory, Hotel du Vin Bristol City Centre – there’s another outpost overlooking the Suspension Bridge in Clifton – epitomises the best of this boutique chain: lots of lovely dark-wood decor with luxurious touches such as freestanding baths. There’s also an excellent in-house restaurant. www.hotelduvin.com WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Bristol’s dining scene is the finest in the South West. For a meal that sums up the city, book a table at Box-E in a trendy harbourfront development. The cosy space – there are just 18 seats – and…

GETTING THERE The nearest airport is Glasgow, a 50min drive away. Trains from London Euston take 5hr 30min (changing at Carlisle) to reach Auchinleck station, a 5min taxi from Dumfries House. DUMFRIES HOUSE The house is usually open for daily guided tours from April to October. Check the website for the latest information and timings. www.dumfries-house.org.uk WHERE TO STAY AND EAT There’s a café on site, and the Woodlands Restaurant dishes up a hearty Sunday lunch, featuring meat reared on the estate and vegetables grown in the kitchen garden. Discreet five-star lodges, furnished with antiques, allow you to prolong your visit with a stay in the grounds.…

GETTING THERE AND AROUND LNER operate several trains from London King’s Cross to York (2hr). From there you can explore the cities, coast and countryside on Northern Rail, who offer good-value Day Ranger or Round Robin tickets. For a heritage steam train experience, catch the North Yorkshire Moors Railway from its southern terminus at Pickering, where the station has been restored to its 1937 condition. The 24-mile route through the National Park will get you to Whitby in just less than two hours. www.lner.co.uk; www.northernrailway.co.uk; www.nymr.co.uk WHERE TO STAY Pickering is an ideal base right on the edge of the Moors. The award-winning Georgian B&B 17 Burgate House will provide every luxury for you here. Alternatively, stunning sunset sea views of Robin Hood’s Bay can be enjoyed at the charming…