Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2016 i Bon Appetit

For stepby-step instructions on achieving the perfect crumbs, see Prep School, page 93. Use them in salads (croutons in every bite!), sprinkle over pastas, dust atop tender braised meats, or just eat them out of hand (naturally). THE PROS RICH TORRISI AND MARIO CARBONE / Carbone / NYC FOR RICH TORRISI AND MARIO CARBONE, breadcrumbs aren’t just a pantry staple, they’re a religion: crispy, carb-y fairy dust, lending irresistible crunch to just about anything within sprinkling distance. Inside their growing empire of restaurants, they use no fewer than four distinctly different types of crumbs, each tailored to specific dishes and applications. It’s a focused reverence that most chefs reserve for, say, caviar. Their signature rye crumbs are meant as a finishing touch— loaded with toasty, herby flavor to crown everything…

Crispy, salty, creamy, and full of protein (really!), these chickpeas should be a staple in your kitchen. Rinse two 15-oz. cans chickpeas and pat dry. Place in a large skillet or Dutch oven and add 4 crushed garlic cloves and ⅓ cup olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until chickpeas are crisped and some have split open (these will be the most delicious ones), 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in 2 . cups chopped mixed tender herbs (such as parsley, cilantro, chives, and/or basil). Makes about 3 cups BRING HOME THE (GOOD) BACON This recipe is a great argument for spending more money on bacon. You’re not using much of it, so shelling out a couple of extra bucks for higherquality, thickercut…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 96. The Jewish deli is not dead. In fact, it might be more alive than ever—complete with schmaltzy matzo-ball soup and reimagined rugelach. For this, we can thank a crew of young New York restaurateurs who have given this legendary institution a new lease on life, tweaking every bagel (salt and pepper?), black-and-white cookie (in a sundae?), and delicate slice of smoked salmon (cured with beets?). The best part about these new riffs on the classics: They make it all feel old again. WHAT TO DO IN BETWEEN BAGELS? Visit the always fascinating Tenement Museum, where immigrants’ stories are brought to life through their re-created apartments. The Next-Generation Jewish Food Tour Despite all that’s changed on and…

ANYTHING GOES DONABE 1 oz. bean thread noodles, soaked in water 15 minutes 4 cups Dashi (see recipe, page 84) ½ cup mirin ½ cup light soy sauce (usukuchi) 4 scallions, 2 thinly sliced on a steep diagonal, 2 sliced 2" thick ¼ head of Napa cabbage, sliced into 2" pieces 4 littleneck clams 4 jumbo shrimp, preferably head-on 1 6 oz. red snapper or black bass fillet, sliced crosswise ¾" thick 1 large skinless, boneless chicken thigh, cut into 1" pieces 6 oz. firm tofu, sliced ½" thick 4 oz. oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces 3 oz. enoki mushrooms 1 small carrot, peeled, halved crosswise, thinly sliced lengthwise Place noodles in a large bowl and add cold water to cover; let soak 15 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, combine dashi,…

Order of the day “I love pizza, man. The best now is the Round Table Pizza by my house. Their sauce is way better.”…

WE’RE INTO THE FIFTH DECADE OF OUR LIVES NOW, and while there’s still an awful lot we don’t know, there is one thing we know for certain: However much we tell ourselves that this year is going to be different, we’re never going to drink eight glasses of water a day. But that doesn’t mean we’re abandoning the idea of New Year’s resolutions completely. In 2016, with some help from our less-jaded kids, we’ve come up with eight achievable goals that might even stick through spring. Skip the sugary salad dressing! Find their fromscratch recipes at bonappetit.com /providers 1 Reduce Refuse We’re not quite ready for kale-stem spare ribs or “Dumpster dive” salads yet, à la Dan Barber, but there are steps we can take to significantly reduce our family’s…

THE MENU □ WHOLE WHEAT CHAPATIS □ SWEET-AND-SOUR TOMATO CHUTNEY □ BEET AND CARROT SALAD □ CURRIED MEATBALLS □ YOGURT SAUCE □ SPICED RICE □ INDIAN PICKLES Three days a week, for four hours each night, a nautical-themed sandwich shop serves Indian food unlike anywhere else in New York City. This pop-up calls itself Mr. Curry, and it’s less concerned with authenticity than with memories— specifically those of its chef, Rebecca Collerton. “When I came to America, the Indian food in England was one of the things I really missed,” says the British transplant. So she took everything she knew about cooking from her years at Brooklyn stalwarts Saltie and Diner and applied it to the fragrant curries, sweet-sour chutneys, and rustic chapati bread that she remembered from her childhood.…

SPICY FEEL-GOOD CHICKEN SOUP 4 SERVINGS The squash and cabbage greens are seasonal and healthy, but you can add whatever veggies you like. Spicy Chicken Stock (see recipe on p. 67) 1 2-lb. kabocha squash 4 cups thin wedges mixed cabbages (such as bok choy, Napa, and savoy) 4 cups cooked chicken (see Spicy Chicken Stock on p. 67) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced Basil leaves, cilantro leaves with tender stems, and chili oil (for serving) 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 3 limes, cut into wedges Heat stock in a large pot over medium. Meanwhile, cut squash into 4 wedges and remove seeds. Cut each wedge into 4 pieces. Add squash to stock and simmer until tender, 8–10 minutes. Add cabbage and cooked chicken and…

FROM P. 18 CRUMB AS YOU ARE When it comes to making the best breadcrumbs, details matter. Follow these steps to crispy, toasty goodness. —A.S. 1. Seal dried bread cubes in 2 large, sturdy ziptop bags, then wrap in a kitchen towel. Whack with a rolling pin to get even(ish), craggy crumbs. 2. Heat olive oil and butter in a medium skillet over medium. Once the butter foams, toss in herb sprigs and garlic. Let the fat infuse with the flavors. 3. Add crumbs to the pan and cook until golden brown. Transfer to paper towels to drain; pluck out the herbs and garlic. Season crumbs with salt. FROM P. 91 SAKE TO ’ EM Most Americans are familiar with exactly two kinds of sake: hot and cold. But the…

1 OATMEAL 2.0 Maple syrup and brown sugar? Snooze. Oatmeal’s finally getting interesting: Think ancient grains with coconut milk (Milktooth, Indianapolis), steel-cut oats with hazelnut granola (High Street on Hudson, NYC), and local grains with roasted figs (The London Plane, Seattle). 2 GRASS-FED GETS GOOD Anya Fernald, Belcampo CEO and author of the upcoming Home Cooked, explains why: “I’ve had a lot of bad grass-fed beef. That’s because most producers don’t have the time. Grassfed animals take longer to finish than corn-fed. I can make a delicious steak with lots of marbling in 27 months. I can’t do it in 18.” 3 VOCAB WORD Koji [koh-jee] n. Like raw denim and Pokémon, a certain type of phenomenon originates in Japan. The latest import of note: koji. What It Is Rice…

Beer who? NYC’s Wassail offers more than 90 ciders by the bottle and on draft. 1 HIT A CIDER BAR Hard cider is having its craft beer moment—think nuanced bottles that are worlds apart from the saccharine stuff that once gave the drink a bad rap— right down to a surge in bars that specialize in it. Seattle’s Capitol Cider has 20 cider taps and more than 100 bottles on its list. San Francisco gastropub Upcider stocks a deep selection of California bottles. New York’s Wassail rounds out the cider (and fresh apple juice) on tap with applebased cocktails. KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR… Devoto Orchards Ciders $13 for 750 ml The crisp and spicy Cidre Noir is made from heirloom apples. 2 ADD APPLEJACK TO YOUR ARSENAL America’s old-school…

BLACK BARLEY WITH MUSHROOM BROTH 1 cup black barley 12 crimini or white button mushrooms, stems and caps separated 4 bay leaves 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more 4 large eggs 1 small red or watermelon radish, trimmed, thinly sliced ¼ cup kimchi, thinly sliced Small cilantro sprigs and olive oil (for serving) Place barley in a medium bowl and add 3 cups cold water to cover. Cover and chill at least 12 hours. Drain barley, reserving soaking liquid. Bring barley, mushroom stems, bay leaves, and 5 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add 1 Tbsp. salt, then reduce heat and simmer very gently, stirring occasionally, until barley is tender and liquid is almost completely evaporated, 80–90 minutes. Drain and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet to…

SHOPPING LIST IN DEFENSE OF SIMPLE FOOD pp. 52–61 P. 53 RINA MENARDI GREY SOUP PLATE $90; jungleeny.com TAKE STOCK pp. 64–71 P. 66 STAUB ROUND COCOTTES $335 each; staubusa.com P. 68 RINA MENARDI GRAPHITE SOUP PLATE $118 JAPANESE HOME COOKING pp. 82–91 P. 83 KAMADO-SAN POT $180; toirokitchen.com P. 88–89 CERAMIC BOWLS $40 each; abchome.com P. 90 YOROZUYA-SAN POT $390; toirokitchen.com TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 10–11 CAFE PASQUAL’S 121 Don Gaspar Ave., Santa Fe; 505-983-9340; pasquals.com THE RED DORY 1848 Main Rd., Tiverton, RI; 401-816-5001; reddoryrestaurant.com HEALTHY IN 2016 pp. 13–16 BABBO PIZZERIA 11 Fan Pier Blvd., Boston; 617-421-4466; babbopizzeria.com BOEUFHAUS 1012 N. Western Ave., Chicago; 773-661-2116; boeufhaus.com THE BUTCHER’S DAUGHTER 19 Kenmare St., NYC; 212-219-3434; thebutchersdaughter.com FARM SPIRIT 1414 SE Morrison St., Portland, OR; farmspiritpdx.com JUNIPER & IVY…