Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2023/January 2024 i Bon Appetit

The cookie swap always feels like the kickoff to the holidays. Right after Thanksgiving I’m ready to flex my decorating skills and break out my baking sheets, sanding sugar, parchment paper, cutters, and dragées. I look forward to eating as many of my favorite oatmeal-cranberry-coconut cookies as I can and savoring the grasshopper brownies with mint cream and chocolate ganache that are so delicious, my granny hides a stash for herself. We make extra batches of these to give to unexpected guests and, of course, to take to cookie swaps. For years my go-to-swap cookie was a crispy vanilla and cinnamon spritz—practical and delicious. Mixing up a batch was a simple way to get four or five dozen cookies done in one easy bake. I’d send those bad boys through…

Summer salads get all the fanfare, but cold-weather produce is just as primed to take top billing on your dinner plate. Take leafy Swiss chard, delightfully bitter chicories, and sweet winter carrots, for example. Each of these end-of-the-year farmers market stalwarts can anchor a salad that is simple to make, robust enough to be a full meal, and really, truly feels like comfort food. The trick is balancing all those vegetables with quick-cooking grains, lots of toasty croutons, and plenty of cheese. Try one of these five recipes tonight and see if winter doesn’t become your new favorite salad season.…

4 SERVINGS 1 chipotle chile in adobo, finely chopped, plus 4 Tbsp. adobo sauce1 tsp. honey2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling1½ tsp. ground cumin, plus more1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more3 small limes, halved, divided4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts1 large red onion, halved, cut through root end into 1½"-thick strips¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)1 bunch kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves thinly sliced2 avocados, divided Flaky sea salt 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Combine chile, adobo sauce, honey, 2 Tbsp. oil, 1½ tsp. cumin, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl. Squeeze juice from 1 lime into bowl and stir to combine. Add chicken and turn to coat. Let sit 10 minutes.…

I grew up near Bogotá, but always wanted to live by the sea. So I came to Cartagena 12 years ago for work and never left. Cartagena is Colombia’s biggest tourist destination for a reason. The city is beautiful, historic, infinitely welcoming, and always lively. Spend your days boating to various islands and your nights sipping craft cocktails and dancing salsa with the locals. But what you must not miss is the food, which is some of the most delicious you’ll find anywhere in the region. Options abound, but Caribbean Colombian cuisine reigns supreme: Expect lots of coconut milk, flavorful stews, and fish plucked straight from the sea every morning and then fried crisp. The city is also quite easy to navigate—you can drive from the airport to the historic…

THE INSPIRATION A reflection of its natural surroundings, the hazelnut tofu served as a part of Ōkta’s 10-course tasting menu is an ode to Oregon. While the silky tofu base remains consistent, the toppings—lobster mushrooms one month, sweet Dungeness crab the next—evolve seasonally. One bite of the carefully considered dish is like a cross section of the state itself: its unrivaled bounty of hazelnut trees; its abundance of wild mushrooms; its forests brimming with wild herbs. It “celebrates some of these quintessential Oregon products,” Lightner says. THE TOFU Silken tofu is a study in texture—achieving its creamy melt-in-your-mouth consistency is a precise undertaking. While tofu is traditionally made with mild soy milk, Lightner opts instead for earthy, subtly sweet fresh hazelnut milk as the base, stabilizing it with just enough…

Our favorite backdrop for rolling cheese balls, decorating cookies, or grating potatoes: the glow of the television. Swap out the crackling yule log video for these holiday specials—heartwarmingly cheesy as they are—to bring an extra dose of cheer to any gathering. Ted Lasso, “Carol of the Bells”  S2 E4, Apple TV+ Crazy Ex-Girlfriend, “My Mom, Greg’s Mom and Josh’s Sweet Dance Moves!” S1 E8, Netflix The X-Files, “How the Ghosts Stole Christmas” S6 E6, Amazon Prime Community, “Abed’s Uncontrollable Christmas” S2 E11, Hulu Downton Abbey, “Christmas at Downton Abbey” S2 E9, Peacock Frasier, “Perspectives on Christmas” S5 E9, Hulu Schitt’s Creek, “Merry Christmas, Johnny Rose” S4 E13, Amazon Prime Seinfeld, “The Strike” S9 E10, Netflix Superstore, “Christmas Eve” S3 E7, Hulu The Nanny, “The Hanukkah Story” S6 E10, Max…

Doughnuts in Paris The French have fallen for doughnuts. I visited several bakeries on a recent trip to the City of Light, including PonPon, Boneshaker, and Pierre Hermé, and all served elaborately topped and filled versions. Is it time to make the doughnuts again in the US? Kann Coffee Blend If you can’t get to Portland, Oregon’s Kann, one of our Best New Restaurants, you can get its Haitian coffee blend delivered. It’s spiced with cinnamon, star anise, and vanilla and makes one zhuzhed-up cup. $30 for 10 oz.; kannrestaurant.com/kann-coffee Coltellerie Berti Fruit Tart Knife This gorgeous piece of Italian craftsmanship has become a game changer for me. It delicately scythes through the soft top layer of a fruit tart, then goes easily through the crust to make that dazzling…

4–6 SERVINGS 8 oz. pumpernickel or other hearty brown bread (such as rye or whole wheat), coarsely torn (about 4 cups)⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more1 tsp. freshly ground pepper, divided, plus more5–6 medium oranges, divided2 garlic cloves, finely grated½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard½ large fennel bulb, cut into quarters through root end, thinly sliced lengthwise3 large shallots, thinly sliced8 oz. mixed chicories (such as radicchio and/or endive), leaves separated, torn into very large pieces if needed (about 6 cups)2 oz. Parmesan, plus more for serving 1. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400°. Place bread on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle ¹⁄₃ cup oil over, and season with ½…

4 SERVINGS 1 lb. small waxy potatoes, halved or quartered Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper1 12-oz. jar marinated artichokes, drained4 4–6-oz. skinless salmon fillets1½ cups (packed) tender herb leaves (such as parsley, dill, cilantro, and/or mint)¼ cup coarsely chopped drained Peppadew peppers in brine¼ cup torn pitted green olives1 lemon, halved 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Place potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and season with salt and black pepper. Toss to coat, then arrange in an even layer. Roast until potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes. 2. Remove baking sheet from oven and scatter artichokes over potatoes. Roast until potatoes are just starting to brown, 5–7 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, pat salmon dry with paper towels. Place on a plate and…

I met Maria on a blistering summer day in the early 1970s. My mother had just moved my siblings and me to Brooklyn from Greenville, South Carolina, where we had lived with my grandparents since I was two months old. Maria’s parents were from Puerto Rico, a place I had never heard of, and her apartment was only three buildings down the block from my own. My mother worked full-time. Maria’s was a stay-at-home mom, first keeping a keen eye on Maria and her sister, then later on me as well. But before Maria and I became friends, my siblings and I relied on the care of a teenage babysitter who often took us across the street to the park where city volunteers handed out bags of free lunch. Inside…

FOR THE SPICE-SHELF CONNOISSEUR The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp by Jing Gao (from $29) + Fly by Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp, $17; flybyjing.com This nuanced, delicious journey through Gao’s very personal take on Sichuan cuisine, with recipes for drinks, desserts, and everything savory in between, is begging to be wrapped up with a jar, or two, of her signature chili crisp. FOR THE NOVICE WITH A SWEET TOOTH Snacking Bakes by Yossy Arefi (from $23) + DOT thermometer, $45; thermoworks.com Pair this clever and inviting guide for beginner bakers, or anyone who loves a sweet treat that doesn’t require hours (or days) of prep and labor, with an oven thermometer to ensure foolproof bakes every time. FOR THE VEGGIE-CURIOUS COOK Veg-Table by Nik Sharma (from $32) + The Tomato Tote, $35; shop.bonappetit.com Sharma is…

Line your table with parchment paper. This allows guests to write the names of their cookies directly on the table, no sticky notes required. Bonus: Cleanup is a breezy crumple-and-toss affair. Note any allergens. Another benefit of the parchment-as-tablecloth method: Everyone can (and very much should) jot down any ingredients worth calling out, like nuts or dairy. Don’t forget the food. One cannot survive on sugar alone! If you want the party to last, you need some real food. Make sure to provide apps—like the cheese ball on p.57, perhaps?—for easy noshing. Buy a set of bakery boxes. Leftover cookies are the best party favors. Cardboard bakery boxes, which are relatively cheap and easy to find at craft or baking supply stores, are a pretty and practical option. Delegate beverage…

We wanted to photograph Zaynab Issa’s Carrot Halwa Cookies (page 74) in a way that conveyed a sense of movement—and a little drama. To do that we suspended a still-warm cookie in mid-air and captured the moment when it got a finishing touch of flaky salt. We used a wire coil to prop up the cookie so it was angled away from the camera and attached it to a C-stand, an adjustable metal support pole with a clamp. (This apparatus was later removed in Photoshop so the cookie appears to be floating.) Then we released several flurries of salt, keeping our hands as high as possible to avoid casting a shadow and creating just the right snowfall effect.…

THE 101 The cucurbit family—that’s fun to say, right?—encompasses an impressive range of edible fruits, from crisp cucumbers to juicy, sweet melons. But when the last of the leaves have left the trees and farmers market stalls start to thin, we always know we have their cool-weather offerings to get excited about. Knobby delicatas. Smooth, thick-necked butternuts. Edible pumpkins in every possible sunset hue. Hardy winter squash dazzle in their diversity, with as many types to try as there are ways to prepare them. And we’ve got expert tips for every cook, whether you’re already a fan or cooking with squash for the very first time. REAL KEEPERS One of the beautiful things about these squash is their impressive staying power. When stored in a cool (around 50° is ideal),…

4 SERVINGS 10 oz. ditalini or other small pasta1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ Morton kosher salt, plus more2 bunches Swiss chard⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided½ cup coarsely chopped raw pistachios2 Tbsp. thinly sliced sage2 garlic cloves, finely grated⅓ cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped capers½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Freshly ground pepper5 oz. feta, crumbled 1. Cook pasta in a medium pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente, then drain. 2. Meanwhile, remove ribs and stems from Swiss chard; slice very thinly. Coarsely chop leaves; set aside. Heat ¹⁄₃ cup oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook chard ribs and stems, stirring occasionally, until lightly crisped, about 4 minutes. Add pistachios and remaining ¹⁄₃ cup oil and cook, stirring…

4 SERVINGS ½ cup coarsely chopped dried apricots or pitted dates1 small red onion, thinly sliced2 lemons1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 lb. ground lamb1 Tbsp. ras-el-hanout½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground pepper3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste2 medium carrots, scrubbed, shaved lengthwise into ribbons with a vegetable peeler1 cup (packed) mixed tender herbs (such as mint, cilantro, and/or parsley)Pita or other flatbread (for serving) 1. Place apricots in a small bowl and pour in 1 cup hot water to cover; set aside. 2. Place red onion in a large bowl. Cut 1 lemon in half and squeeze juice over onion through a mesh sieve; discard seeds. Set aside. Cut…

THE TAKEAWAY Set yourself up for success by freezing your onigiri rice in advance. When it’s go time, a meal is just one microwave zap away. When my partner, Erika, and I had our daughter, Nina, who’s now five, we were very smug new parents. As chefs we didn’t think we’d raise picky eaters. Things went pretty smoothly with Nina. We dragged her to adult restaurants and fed her whatever we were eating, like fried sardine heads and skewered chicken hearts. (One time she stole a jar of smoked trout roe we’d brought home for Christmas, crawled under the table, and ate the entire thing!) It was a whole different experience with our youngest, Huey. He arrived early and spent the first month of his life in the NICU. He’s…

SHARE A SWIG “Year after year, mixing up and busting out my homemade coquito kicks off my holiday celebrations. My first encounter with the creamy, spiced, boozy drink was a true Nuyorican experience: my best friend tapping a frosty repurposed Hennessy bottle filled with the brew on her stoop as a blessing for luck and prosperity before handing it over. I needed just one swig to know that everyone gathered would remain friends.” —Inés Anguiano, test kitchen coordinator LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL “If you ask me, there’s nothing better to bring to a party than a cheese ball. They’re portable, cute, easy to make ahead, and flexible—add some kimchi brine, swap chili powder for chili crisp or gochujang, use whatever cheeses and herbs you have. Best of all, they’re…

Bottles to Match the Moment: VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE “I try to have a case of the most recent Champagne bottling on hand for gifting. Folks can pop bottles to toast the holidays this year or save one for an anniversary years down the line. It’s such a nice way to mark the occasion and kick-start a celebration.” —Jacob Siwak, chef-owner, Forsythia, New York The Light Red That Goes With Everything: BEAUJOLIAS “Around the holidays I always buy a case of Beaujolais to bring to events, have around for dinner parties I’m hosting, and give as last-minute gifts. It’s drinkable and accessible to a wide range of tastes and it pairs really well with every stage of the meal. The perfect wine for the season.” —June Kim, VP, head of digital video,…