Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Bon Appetit

Q: For years now I’ve been mindful of my animal protein consumption. I layer in sustainable fish, lentils, beans, and vegetables, but I rarely cook with tofu—it intimidates me a bit. Any tips? Food director Chris Morocco says: Tofu is a super convenient protein capable of so many textures, from custardy to airy, chewy to meaty. And because it often starts out as a nearly blank slate flavorwise, you can take it in a million directions. The extra-firm pressed style that stars in Andrea Nguyen’s Char Siu Tofu Bao Sliders (page 72), as well as in Shilpa Uskokovic’s Tofu and Green Pea Curry (page 64), is a great starting point for anyone looking to add more tofu to their repertoire. The taste is mildly nutty on its own and it…

4 SERVINGS 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling8 thick slices sourdough or French bread2 15-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed½ small red onion, finely chopped2 celery stalks, finely chopped8 oz. extra sharp cheddar, coarsely grated½ cup coarsely chopped cornichons½ cup coarsely chopped dill Kosher salt, freshly ground pepperFlaky sea saltHot sauce and potato chips (optional; for serving) 1. Heat broiler. Heat 3 Tbsp. butter and 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook 4 slices of bread, turning once, until golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Repeat with 1 Tbsp. oil and remaining 3 Tbsp. butter and 4 slices of bread. Arrange slices on a baking sheet. 2. Place chickpeas in a large bowl. Using a wooden spoon, potato masher, or…

4 SERVINGS 1 lb. broccolini (about 2 large bunches), woody ends trimmed, cut into 2" pieces6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped1 Fresno or other red chile, thinly sliced1 tsp. fennel seeds1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 Tbsp. cornstarch1 Tbsp. sesame seeds2 tsp. za’atar2 6-oz. blocks feta, drained, patted dry2 lemons, halved1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar Country-style bread (for serving) 1. Place a rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 450°. Toss broccolini, garlic, chile, fennel seeds, salt, and ¼ cup oil on a rimmed baking sheet to combine. Roast, tossing halfway through, until broccolini is tender and charred in spots, 10–12 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, mix cornstarch, sesame seeds, and za’atar on a small plate with a fork to combine.…

In Priyanka Chopra Jonas’s new movie, Love Again, a woman mourning the loss of her boyfriend inadvertently falls for a suitor assigned her beloved’s phone number. Which means I know how I’m spending one night in May: watching the rom-com with a big tub of popcorn (and a box of Kleenex). But first I got to talk to Chopra Jonas about her dream dinner party. You can invite anyone: a book character, someone historic, someone living or deceased. Who gets the invite and why? I would love to have my dad, who I lost in 2013. He was the life of a party. He was a big fan of the Indian actress Rekha, who I’m a big fan of as well. She’s the best dinner party guest because she’s supremely…

THE CASE FOR BETTER PASTA If you’ve read this magazine before, you’re probably familiar with all sorts of tricks and tips for making better pasta. Salt your water like the sea. Add a knob of butter to your sauce right at the end. But the simplest way to up your pasta game is to think of the noodles you’re using not as a cheap, carb-y vehicle for sauce but as an ingredient unto itself. Just as a truly superlative sandwich starts with well-made bread, a plate of cacio e pepe made with quality dried spaghetti sings. Is the good stuff more expensive? Sure, but only a little, and the payoff is huge. The best weeknight pasta starts in the aisles of the grocery store—read on to know what to look…

4 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 small white onion, thinly sliced6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 large Yukon Gold potato (about 10 oz.), peeled, cut into 2x½" sticks½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt2 jalapeños, thinly sliced, divided4 large poblano chiles, cut into 2x½" strips1 Tbsp. vegetable or chicken bouillon paste1¼ cups crema mexicana, divided, or 1 cup heavy cream and ¼ cup sour creamWarmed small flour or corn tortillas and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, potato, salt, half of the jalapeños, and ¼ cup water to pan and cover (use a baking sheet if you don’t have a lid). Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and translucent and potato is almost fork-tender, 9–12 minutes.…

THE INSPIRATION To complement chef Fermín Núñez’s fish-heavy menu celebrating Mexico’s coastal seafood culture, Flynn wanted to serve refreshing desserts. The semifreddo drew inspiration, in part, from his beloved Good Humor fruit bars. “Some chefs take offense when you describe something they make as ‘lowbrow’ or ‘cheap,’” Flynn says. “But I genuinely take it as a compliment if I’ve put work into something that triggers that memory for someone.” SEMIFREDDO Núñez imports luscious Oaxacan crema that weaves its way into savory dishes at Este; it also inspired Flynn to concoct a dessert that felt luscious but not heavy. “It has these savory, lovely cheesy notes,” he says. He amplifies the crema’s natural tanginess with some cream cheese, adds egg yolks for richness, and sets it all with gelatin. VANILLA SHORTBREAD…

Pick Your Protein Beef 1,850 gal./lb. Pork 719 gal./lb. Chicken 516 gal./lb. Pulses (beans, peas, chickpeas, lentils) 486 gal./lb. Tofu 302 gal./lb. AS FOR FISH, it’s a little complicated: Ocean dwellers are fair game, while aquaculture-raised fillets ring up a big water bill (up to three quarters as much as beef). How Many Hot Tubs Are in Your Cheeseburger? Three Cheers for Peanuts Eating locally and seasonally helps Anything that requires long-distance delivery or shipping means more fuel, and fuel production requires vast quantities of water. DISAPPEARING ACT A vital water source is drying up. What does that mean? THE COLORADO RIVER provides water for 40 million people, and it’s in the middle of a decades-long drought. About 80 percent of its flow nourishes crops like alfalfa (for cattle), vegetables, fruits, and nuts. Looming scarcity…

CHAN CHI KEE SMALL STAINLESS CLEAVER “People are always asking, ‘Why do you need to assault vegetables with cleavers?’” Nguyen laughs. But when working with tough ingredients or in need of precise cuts, a cleaver with a straight edge is optimal. $90; chefknivestogo.com OXO SWIVEL PEELER An extra-sharp vegetable peeler like this one from Oxo makes quick work of food prep and is less daunting than using a mandoline or paring knife. Nguyen even uses it for peeling ginger. $12; oxo.com CUISINART SWING BASKET COLANDER Yes, there are cute colanders with fun design elements, but Nguyen goes for functionality over everything. This colander is nested inside a larger bowl, providing a place for rinsed ingredients to land. $15; cuisinart.com JOYCE CHEN CARBON-STEEL WOK A 14-inch carbon-steel wok is perfect for…

QUICK AND EASY WEEKNIGHT MEALS In the mood for melty cheese or a rich, creamy sauce? Us too—dairy’s one of our favorite ways to make dinner delicious, and these four satisfying recipes are proof. But we’re also mindful of the impact dairy production has on the environment due to the carbon footprint of cows. That’s why we like to practice being smart consumers of milk, shopping from producers that raise healthy cows—these cows have a longer lifetime of production, meaning fewer cows needed, a decrease in land and water usage, and a smaller carbon footprint. When shopping, consider items labeled “animal welfare certified” or “certified humane.” Once you stock your fridge with the good stuff, you’ll notice the difference.…

4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil8 oz. button mushrooms, sliced ½" thick1 large shallot, finely chopped3 garlic cloves, finely chopped¼ cup dry white wine2 cups heavy cream3 Tbsp. thyme leaves½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt Freshly ground pepper1¼ cups finely grated Parmesan, divided2 9-oz. packages fresh or frozen, thawed cheese ravioli2 cups store-bought fried onions (about 3.5 oz.)1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1. Heat broiler. Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium. Cook mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add shallot and garlic; cook, stirring often, until just starting to soften, about 1 minute. Pour in wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until liquid is evaporated, about 2 minutes. 2. Add cream, thyme, and salt and season…

Like many parents, my husband and I make little deals with our 11-year-old to entice him to try new flavors. If we introduce Zachary to something new and he takes at least two bites, he gets to choose a dish we all eat for dinner the following week. Even if this results in us eating fried chicken sandwiches, it’s worth it. Though he’ll try every vegetable and cheese, when it comes to proper meals, I wish he would allow himself to just close his eyes and savor the dish. He’s always been very particular, but when he finds something he loves, he loves it. Zachy is a thin kid who burns a lot of calories, so I’ve always tried to get him to eat pasta. Gnocchi not only fulfills that…

Maybe it seems obvious, but if something can’t grow where you live, it came from somewhere else. And sure, it’s every season at all times in the supermarket produce section, but as cook, recipe developer, and video producer Pierce Abernathy tells me, that abundance comes at a cost to our planet and our plates. He points out that people are used to just buying a tomato or mango at any point in the year, not thinking about “whether that mango is coming 2,000 miles from South America or that tomato is grown in a greenhouse and has almost no flavor because it’s December.” Abernathy is a Slow Food advocate, which in his words, means “getting as close as possible to where your food comes from.” Eating locally is a big…

Andrea Nguyen is clear about her status as an omnivore: “I’m a lifelong meat eater,” she states plainly. She appreciates the added umami that a splash of fish sauce can provide or the way a really rich slice of pork belly comfortingly coats the palate. But recently, after decades of enthusiastically eating everything, including animal products, some foods left Nguyen with discomfort in her body. She decided to pursue a diet high in vegetables for physiological reasons, and this approach to eating inspired her newest cookbook, Ever-Green Vietnamese. Through the process of writing and recipe developing, she focused on not just how utterly delicious and satiating Vietnamese cuisine is, but how vegetable-centric it can be—and has always been. “When you start backing off meat and focusing on vegetables,” Nguyen explains,…

Any savvy restaurateur has an eye toward reducing food waste; sustainability aside, it’s simply good for the bottom line. But when they opened Shuggie’s Trash Pie + Natural Wine (yes, this is the official name) in the spring of 2022, Kayla Abe and David Murphy had ambitions that stretched beyond carrot-top pesto and clear-out-the-fridge frittatas. They envisioned a business that could divert the waste not just of their own kitchen but also of local farmers, fishermen, ranchers, and manufacturers. Murphy, a chef with 21 years of experience under his belt, designed an entire menu to absorb the trash of his producer partners—from a hundred decorative pumpkins set to be landfilled post-Halloween to 90 pounds of mussels that need to be gone today. According to the nonprofit Project Drawdown, reducing food…

SPICY TOMATO AND BLACK OLIVE GRANDMA PIE 4 SERVINGS Traditional grandma pie dough requires a long proofing time. This version calls for instant yeast rather than active dry, which shaves hours off the process. As a result, you’ll need to set aside just 40 minutes for the focaccia-like dough to rest and rise before topping and baking. 2 ¼-oz. envelopes instant yeast (about 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp.)1 Tbsp. agave nectar6 cups (750 g) all-purpose flour5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more1 15-oz. can tomato sauce2 Tbsp. Calabrian chile paste2 garlic cloves, finely grated Freshly ground pepper1 small red onion, thinly sliced½ cup salt-cured black olives, pitted, torn2 large handfuls of arugula (about 4 cups)2 tsp. balsamic vinegar…