Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2023 i Bon Appetit

Q: One of the best things about this job is getting alerts that there is food—mains, desserts, dips, you name it—in the test kitchen. One standout this month was Pork Shoulder Inasal from chef Silver Iocovozzi, part of our story on Appalachia (page 76). I was so excited to taste the food from the piece, and this dish didn’t disappoint. It has a crunchy, spice-forward crust that I learned is made of toasted black rice with fried onions and garlic. I wasn’t familiar with the technique of coating a protein with toasted rice, but boy did it add both texture and flavor. Can you tell me more about this treatment? Food director Chris Morocco says: The crunchy crust on that pork shoulder is like nothing I’ve ever eaten. Iocovozzi’s technique of…

San Diego, like any border city, is made up of many diverse culinary cultures. It’s a colorful city, with a delicious and everevolving food landscape and a tapestry of many cuisines and influences. As a first-gen Mexican American who grew up in the city, I’ve experienced the magic of this big city, which can feel very small at times. From the San Ysidro border all the way to North County, you can find outstanding Mexican, Filipino, and Vietnamese cuisine—and more. It’s easy to see these varied cultural influences, as well as Mother Nature’s bounty, reflected throughout our restaurants; since we happen to have some of the best produce and seafood in the world, people from across California and around the world tend to congregate here for a taste of what…

THE ESSENCE “In Peru ceviche is usually served family-style,” says La Royal chef/co-owner JuanMa Calderón. “Once everyone’s eaten the fish and seafood, we all fight over the juice that’s left behind.” Filled with delicious and nutritious seafood essence, this liquid gold is called leche de tigre, or tiger’s milk, and considered a powerful aphrodisiac and hangover cure. At La Royal it’s made out of blue cod, fish stock, ginger, celery, red onion, garlic, lime, and salsa madre (see below), emulsified in a blender with some ice cubes and vegetable oil. “At our first restaurant, Celeste, we served thousands of ceviches and people kept leaving the juice behind—but that’s the best part!” director/co-owner Maria Rondeau says. “So this dish is like an upside-down ceviche. When the fish sinks, you have…

OVERTOWN Historically Black Overtown was once known as Little Broadway, until construction of two interstates in the ’60s destroyed the area. In recent years members of the community have fought for Overtown’s revitalization in order to keep the culture alive. Visit Black-owned restaurants like edgy neo-soul spot Lil Greenhouse Grill and Southern comfort favorite Red Rooster. COCONUT GROVE Known as Miami’s original neighborhood, the Grove is the oldest permanent settlement in Dade County, dating back to the late 1800s. Come for the lush streets lined with banyan and oak trees and stay for wood-grilled oysters at Ariete, pork belly arepas from Los Félix, and tender skirt steak at Loretta & the Butcher. LITTLE HAVANA Given the city’s sizable Cuban population, it’s no surprise that Little Havana feels like a slice…

Philadelphia is a proud city, the home of cheesesteaks, hoagies, and the Citywide Special (a handshake, in drink form, of PBR and a shot of Jim Beam). Unlike other cities often placed in the shadow of New York, Philly has nothing to prove—the site of America’s capital before DC, and home to the founding fathers as well as one of the earliest free Black communities, this city is quintessentially American. Even though every street is steeped in history, Philly is not stuck in the past; the current restaurant scene reflects generations of immigration but also laser-focused experimentation—here, chefs and cooks are eschewing old-school conventions yet adapting their hard-won skills for a more relaxed, down-to-earth vibe. It’s a small-but-mighty city stuffed to the gills with great food. You can’t go anywhere…

As a sixth-generation West Virginian, home to me is in the landscape, among the trees and 200-million-year-old rocks. There’s plenty to see and even more to taste, and this scenic route will take you north to south. Start with… + Lost Creek Farm for Supper Club. Every dish and detail Mike Costello and Amy Dawson put together tells a story about the region’s heritage, from Amy’s handmade linen napkins to the Fat Horse heirloom beans or sweet vinegar pie. Seeing Appalachian food valued and respected like that makes me proud. + The capital city, Charleston, is a true snapshot of urban Appalachia. For lunch go to Phat Daddy’s on Da Tracks. Cameron Cordon opened this take-out spot during the pandemic; it’s a cooperative, which is pretty progressive, especially in an…

“Lay them out in the sun on some old screen doors; they can touch each other. Don’t overthink it.” This was what my 97-year-old Aunt Ruby told me a decade or so ago when I asked her, in my fussy chef way, how best to dry apples. “You can also do it in the back of your station wagon, if you got one,” she continued. “The sun hits a car window just right during harvest time.” I had neither a station wagon nor discarded screen doors—still don’t. But her advice on apples, from drying to baking them, remains some of the most pragmatic and useful material I have received to this day. The lively conversation in our family home in Check, Virginia, where Great-Uncle Hobe and Great-Aunt Annie raised my…

No, Ali Wong’s new Netflix series Beef is not about burgers (it centers on two people who are consumed by a road rage incident and can’t seem to move on). When we spoke shortly after the show wrapped, Wong shared her favorite quick meal hack, her New York City pizza of choice, and the stunning garden in which she’d host her ideal gathering. Before we get to your dream dinner party, I’m curious about where you dine out before or after you take in a comedy show in NYC? I have to eat at Xi’an Famous Foods every single time I’m in the city. I also love Artichoke Basille’s Pizza and Blue Ribbon Sushi. What about after a grueling day of shooting Beef? What is your quick go-to meal? When…

In my Italian family you knew Lent (40 days of deprivation, soul-searching, and fasting) was almost over when the annual baking contest began. This was no casual competition. This was the Easter Bread Grand Prix. You baked to win. The original roster of bakers included Viola, my formidable paternal grandmother; her equally ambitious sisters Edith, Helen, and Lavinia; and a few saber-toothed cousins. But the oven mitts came off when my mother, Ida, joined the family. My paternal grandmother’s people came to Pennsylvania from the Veneto, at the foot of the Dolomites, while my mother’s came from Lombardia. It was not lost on any of us that my mother’s side was under Venetian rule for centuries; naturally, the reign of terror would continue in some fashion when she married Viola’s…

FAENA Los Fuegos, a Francis Mallmann outpost, serves up rustic open-fire asado in a boldly designed dining room. On Sunday the hotel welcomes guests and diners to a parrilladas feast of grilled seafood and meats. ESMÉ While the tapas are unforgettable—like the green goddess gazpacho with king crab—it’s the drinks at the courtyard El Salón that take the spotlight. Take a seat on a tasseled, lion-head-embroidered stool and sip on one of their house sangrias, like the Vermut Rojo, made with sweet vermouth, rose, tropical fruit, and local Florida oranges. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL AT THE SURF CLUB Michael White’s sophisticated coastal-Italian-inspired fare at Lido (like tender branzino resting on a bed of wilted Swiss chard) carries a cinematic nostalgia that reflects the historic, palm-laden setting; the public areas of the…

Culinarily speaking, I think this is the most perplexing time of the year. With the changing of the seasons comes the gradual arrival of spring produce at the farmers market, filling my head with visions of big salads and extravagant crudités platters. But in the northeast, it often still feels squarely like winter outside, and what I actually want is a steaming bowl of something soothing. Enter these recipes developed specially for that transitional blustery time before the weather starts to turn. An herby toast with savory mushroom broth, a verdant pot of soba noodles, or a platter of warmly dressed radicchio and chicken might be just the ticket for a meal that boasts the bounty of the season with a hearty dash of coziness to boot. WARM CHICKEN PICCATA…

HOW DO YOU START THE DAY? Right now breakfast is a teff porridge with cocoa, which tastes like a chocolaty cream of wheat. I got all these alternative, non-wheat flours some years ago when I read Alice Medrich’s Flavor Flours. It was a huge influence on how I approached baking with alt-sugars in my own cookbook, as ingredients in their own right. HOW DO YOU LIKE TO MOVE YOUR BODY? I run, but I garden in the spring and summer, which is my ideal form of exercise. It feels nice and productive and really makes your muscles ache. Afterward, you feel like you’ve had a well-lived day. When I want a little pick-me-up, I put on music and dance. My all-time favorite song to dance to is this one live…

Established in 2008, Urban Oasis Project operates on the principle that “good, clean, healthy food should be accessible to all.” One of its initiatives, Project Maracuya, provides Miami families in need with boxes of farm fresh vegetables and herbs. On weekends Urban Oasis organizes three different farmers markets around Miami, sourcing goods from over a dozen local farms. Since the markets accept SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program) benefits, those in need are able to double their dollars through the state’s Fresh Access Bucks incentive. Urban Oasis also hosts workshops and classes on gardening and composting. With the support of the Miami Foundation, the organization also builds gardens in low-income neighborhoods, supplying families with fresh produce year-round. Learn more at urbanoasisproject.org…

In 2020, chef Sebastián Vargas had an ambitious goal: to launch two restaurants with separate kitchens and menus under one roof. Today Mesoamerican-inspired Los Félix and its globe-trotting sister Krüs Kitchen are both beloved in Coconut Grove. “The only thing [Los Félix and Krüs] share in common is the music,” Vargas says. “That is the beauty and charm of our location—a place where two worlds collide.” Both spots retain unique identities and showcase Vargas’s creativity. Downstairs, playful and vibey Los Félix serves dishes like braised pork cheek carnitas with hazelnut salsa macha, while upstairs, rock shrimp chitarra with tomato dashi and trout roe shine on the menu at the more intimate Krüs Kitchen. Though the chef has worked with world-class chefs (like Massimo Bottura), Vargas claims he earned the best…

I still remember the first time I visited Tanzania, my parents’ home country in East Africa, back in 2007. I was only nine years old, but the intensity of the place stuck with me. You can’t forget water that blue, buildings that weathered, or food that good. Tanzania is home to a robust food scene; in Dar es Salaam, the former capital, and on the island of Zanzibar, where my mother and father are from, small family-owned restaurants with plastic chairs line the alleys and wood food stalls plant deep into the sand. They welcome visitors and residents alike to enjoy plates of spiced grilled meats and seafood, crispy samosas, kungu (Indian almond), fresh tropical fruits like mabungo, and shoki shoki (rambutan). The region’s specialties are reflective of the area’s…

On a cold fall night in Tulsa, I met Bradley Dry over a pot of beans and a hot stove. Dry, a food stylist and freelance chef, was cooking one of his favorite meals: beans and ham, fried corn cakes, cornbread, and tomato salad. For people who know Appalachian food, these dishes are familiar staples. Dry didn’t learn how to cook in the mountains rising from the country’s Eastern Seaboard, but rather hundreds of miles away, in the soft hills of Oklahoma. I watched as he plopped down a bag of Shawnee Best yellow cornmeal—the same brand his grandma used—and measured ingredients by the handful, not the cup. While we chatted he diced and added smoked ham to the beans in a cast-iron pot that once belonged to his great-grandmother.…

I will not tell you where the chestnut tree grows on our Cherokee land or how to out-forage deer in early fall. Or how the trees burst with white surrender-flag flowers, only to give way to spiny, bright green husks. I should not tell you to wear thicksoled boots as you grind and loosen the nettled hulls underfoot, or to use rawhide gloves to pry apart each carapace. I should not tell you of the chestnut’s sweetness either, or how we covet them in their brief season every year. A canker blight from overseas nearly wiped them all from these Smoky Mountains—not the first foreign invader that has stripped life from Cherokee land. These are the reasons I will not tell you all the secrets of this place. So instead…