Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2022 i Bon Appetit

→ THE ONLY THING the food editors in the test kitchen love more than cooking? Eating at restaurants. Not only does it give us a welcome break from the stove, but trying new dishes—from local spots and those worth traveling for—provides an endless source of inspiration for our own work. These recipes celebrate memorable flavors, textures, and creative combinations from recent dinners out, modified to fit how we most want to cook once we’re off the clock: fast.…

Inspired by Orfali Bros, Dubai 4 SERVINGS 1 cup labneh or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt2 garlic cloves, finely grated1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more2 Tbsp. pine nuts2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil24 store-bought beef, chicken, or vegetable gyoza4 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper½ tsp. ground cumin¼ tsp. smoked paprika1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn2 Tbsp. torn mint leaves 1. Mix together labneh, garlic, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Spread mixture on a platter. Set aside. 2. Toast pine nuts in a dry large skillet over medium, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl; let cool. 3. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil…

WE FIRST LAUNCHED the award Heads of the Table last year in lieu of recognizing America’s Best New Restaurants. Our list of can’t-miss restaurants is back and better than ever this year (see page 38), but we didn’t want to stop celebrating those bringing about the change the industry needs. We asked the BA staff, previous honorees, and trusted food writers for their re-commendations, and after months of extensive research and deliberation, we’re finally here. These five honorees are doing critical work, work that heals the restaurant industry and makes it more inclusive, more equitable, and more delicious. They’re setting new standards, and we’re excited to show you how they’re making it happen.…

República’s wine list includes more than 80 bottles from Mexico. “As far as I know, it’s one of the largest and most diverse Mexican wine programs on the West Coast,” says beverage and hospitality director Miguel Marquez. He makes selections with an eye for history, culture, and representation, noting that despite their relative rarity in the U.S., Mexican wines are plentiful and delicious. His ultimate goal? To create a “more informed and critically thinking society through hedonism.” Here are three bottles to try, all produced in Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe. Mina Penélope Sauvignon Blanc This wine from Veronica Santiago and Nathaniel Malagón has notes of grapefruit, stone fruit, and underripe pineapple, with a finish of mineral and herbaceous tones. It resonates with citrus-forward dishes, while also beautifully mitigating the spicy…

I once had so many cookbooks that the bookcase holding them collapsed. I can’t stop! Among the books I’ve been turning to lately is Gâteau, which promises to simplify the making of French cakes. I once attended a dinner party in which Eric Kim made 20 recipes from Korean American, each one delicious. Tonya Holland’s California Soul hits particularly close to home (I’m a native myself). One: Pot, Pan, Planet emphasizes simple green cooking. Matt Horn is known for his barbecue, but I have to admit I’m drawn to the 7UP cake in Horn Barbecue. From pies to pound cakes and everything in between, Cheryl Day’s book, Treasury of Southern Baking, has it all when it comes to sweets. And Nicole A. Taylor’s Watermelon & Red Birds says it’s for…

Inspired by The Publican, Chicago 4 SERVINGS 2 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced½ cup white wine vinegar1 Tbsp. honey Kosher salt4 ½"-thick bone-in pork rib chops (about 2 lb.) Freshly ground black pepper2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 large shallots, finely chopped1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth4 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 large bunch frisée, torn1 small apple (such as Fuji or Gala), thinly sliced 1. Put chiles in a small heatproof bowl. Whisk together vinegar and honey in a small saucepan; season with a big pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, stirring, over medium-high heat, then pour over chiles. Set aside. 2. Pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Season all over with salt and pepper, then lightly sprinkle both sides with flour to coat. 3. Heat…

▸ IT’S EASIER TO LIST what Indigenous Food Lab isn’t doing. The lab is the first project of NATIFS (North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems), a nonprofit started by founders Dana Thompson and Sean Sherman, and you’ll understand why when you learn what they’ve been cultivating inside Midtown Global Market in Minneapolis. Indigenous Food Lab gathers information on food traditions from Indigenous communities—so far it’s partnered with over 150—and turns that into educational material for all ages. It hires Indigenous staff and gives them free rein to experiment in its test kitchen with ancient culinary techniques and ingredients, like using acorn flour as a substitute for chocolate. At the start of the pandemic, it fed native elders in the community, cooking and distributing over 80,000 meals, and now it sells…

▸ CELLPHONE WAS ALREADY a known entity within the Bay Area food world when they opened Gay4U in Oakland in 2019. A decade earlier they founded Hella Vegan Eats, which became a staple for vegan comfort food in the East Bay. But with their restaurant, they wanted to create something that united their culinary vision with their political activism. ▸ They launched Trans POC Always Eat Free, a program that offers free meals to trans people of color, just like them—not on particular days or during promotions, but always. All customers need to do is identify themselves as a trans person of color when placing their order at Gay4U. So far Cellphone estimates they’ve served 10,000 free meals and counting. Cellphone was inspired by the work of gay liberation activists…

I didn’t know a thing about the Kamal family when I stepped through the doors of Baba’s Pantry, a Palestinian American café in Kansas City, Missouri. And I didn’t know much more about them when I stepped out through those doors an hour later, deliriously full, blinking in the Midwestern sun. What I did know was that the hummus I had just eaten—rich and velvet-smooth, topped with a luscious mound of aromatic shaved beef and lamb—was perhaps the best I’d ever had. Everything else I learned later. I came to know, for instance, that the ebullient moustached man who emerged from the kitchen to answer a question I had about the homemade preserved lemons being sold by the jar was Yahia Kamal—“Baba” to his children and just about anyone who…

The first step to finding the best pasta in the country right now: Get yourself to South Philly and look up. Scan the horizon for the BOK Building. You can’t miss it—at eight stories, the striking 1930s Art Deco vocational school turned creative hub towers over the sleepy blocks of row houses that surround it. Walk toward it. Go through the double doors, down an echoey hallway past the former girl’s gymnasium, and up the elevator to the top floor. There, in an old nursing classroom warmed up with vintage lamps and multihued midcentury furniture, you’ll find Irwin’s, chef Michael Vincent Ferreri’s ode to the food of Sicily. A plate of chewy hand-rolled twists of trofie pasta; a cold glass of fizzy biodynamic Montepulciano; a seat on the rooftop terrace watching…

There’s a Platonic-ideal dosa on offer at New York City’s Semma, corners tucked tight into a triangle with a mess of masala potatoes inside and a sambar so soul-nourishing you’ll want to order another bowl just to drink. But that’s only an entry point into dinner, served in a warm West Village space with a killer bar program (try the cocktail with the curry-leaf-infused gin or the bourbon with a coconut ice cube that changes the drink’s flavor as it melts) and a tight list of dishes that spans Southern India’s vast and varied regional culinary traditions. The restaurant is part of a rapidly expanding empire from the Unapologetic Foods team—known as much for its signature spiciness as its success running restaurants that put home cooking, street food, and, now,…

1. THE DINING ROOM Yangban’s heavy steel doors open into a bright multicolored restaurant with a night-market feel. A scan of the menu reveals traditional Korean ingredients, like short ribs, sea bream, kimchi, perilla, and nori, all represented in innovative ways. We recommend bringing three of your hungriest friends along for dinner—you’ll likely want to try a bit of everything. 2. THE DRINKS Upstairs, you’ll find a line of freestanding fridges stocked with rows upon rows of ice-cold Korean sodas and soft drinks, natural wine you can order by the bottle, sojus, and even canned house-made cocktails. Crack open a Yangban Highball (made with Japanese whiskey, Korean barley tea, and soda water), or go for the Blossom Cocktail, a take on a white negroni with undertones of rich sesame. 3.…

Inspired by Thip Khao, Washington, D.C. 4 SERVINGS 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced1 3" piece ginger, peeled, cut into thin matchsticks2 cups cooled cooked jasmine rice1 4-oz. can or jar Thai red curry paste (preferably Maesri), divided3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. fish sauce1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. sugar4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided1 lb. ground chicken Kosher salt1 small serrano chile, thinly sliced1 cup salted dry-roasted peanuts1 cup (packed) cilantro leaves½ cup (packed) mint leaves Lettuce leaves and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Place red onion and ginger in a medium bowl of ice water and let soak while you prepare the chicken and rice. 2. Using your hands, toss rice and half of curry paste (no need to be exact) in a medium bowl to…

London ▸ FISH AND CHIPS. Cask ale. A proper English breakfast. All things an American visiting London ought to seek out, no doubt. But for me, a trip to this enchanting city is about one thing: wine, particularly natural wine, and a whole lot of it. At the risk of offending my friends across the Channel, I would argue that London is one of the most fun places to drink right now—particularly if you, like me, have never been able to successfully commit to a Duolingo regimen. The wine scene here feels more pubby than clubby, and proximity to continental Europe means bottles that are costly or rare in the States are far more accessible and affordable. Best of all, this profusion of Good Juice isn’t limited to bars alone.…

▸ IN OCTOBER 2017 longtime food writer Heather Irwin was, as usual, working in the newsroom of the Press Democrat in Santa Rosa, California. But instead of writing about restaurant openings and closures, she was fielding calls from local chefs wondering how they could help feed the many recently displaced Sonoma County residents. The Tubbs fire had just ripped through the area, ultimately de-stroying over 5,600 homes and businesses and forcing out about 100,000 residents, including members of Irwin’s family, into temporary shelters. They struggled to cook meals for themselves in the immediate aftermath. Inspiration struck. “I had no clear plan, but I knew I had to do something,” Irwin says. “My super-power is connecting people.” Tapping into the local culinary network, she created a central kitchen for chefs to bring…

1960 Baba is born in Tulkarm, Palestine, a town in the soon-to-be Israeli-occupied West Bank. 1979 He leaves Palestine to pursue an education in the U.S. He arrives in Dallas on August 8, his 19th birthday. 1982 Baba moves to Norman, Oklahoma, to attend the University of Oklahoma. He soon meets Linda Kamal, his first wife. Over the next decade the couple have four children: Kamal, Yasmine, Omar, and Hannah. The couple later divorce. 1994 Following the signing of the Oslo Accords, the Kamal family moves to Palestine, where Baba takes a job with the Ministry of Tourism & Antiquities. 2000 Peace talks between Israel and the Palestinian Authority fall apart, and the Kamal family leaves Palestine and resettles in Kansas City, Missouri. 2003 Baba launches Yummy’s Choice, a wholesale…

I was not hungry when I arrived for dinner at Canje. In fact, I was wishing for oblivion. Scouting restaurants is all fun and games until you’re halfway through a cross-Texas road trip, soaked in meat sweats and staring down the barrel of your fifth meal of the day. Minutes after I sat down on the shaded patio, my foul mood was but a memory. I’m not sure if it was the frosty charred-coconut mezcal cocktail, the highly informed server, or the atmosphere—stylish yet welcoming with a palpable party vibe. But by the time our red snapper ceviche hit the table, I felt like my stomach had miraculously grown three sizes, like the Grinch’s heart after he learned the true meaning of Christmas. The feast intensified: salty-crisp hunks of bacalaíto kissed…

My wife and I realized we had a problem about a quarter of the way through our pork chop. Not that we had misordered—the Pork Can Can at Supperland is a mad, magnificent thing, a custom-deluxe slab of bone-in Cheshire pork that contains loin, rib, and belly meat, a comma-shaped cut the size of my fist and forearm together. Each slice was perfect, all rosy pink flesh and soft, gorgeously rendered fat—no small feat considering that the three cuts that constitute it cook very differently, and damn near miraculous considering that it was grilled on the massive wood-fired hearth at the front of the room. Our problem was simple: We didn’t know anyone else in Charlotte, North Carolina. Which meant that we didn’t have anyone with whom to share it. Not…

 STEP-BY-STEPS TIPS & TRICKS Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don’t) 1 THE CASE FOR FRYING AT HOME Crispy. Crunchy. Golden brown. Words that set our mouths watering and hearts racing. And yet many think of deep-frying at home as a bridge too far. Which is a shame because few things are as delicious, satisfying, and impressive as food fried in your own kitchen, be it a platter of homemade Buffalo wings or a pile of still-hot doughnuts. With the right tools and a few key techniques, frying at home can be as easy as the results are delicious. Will there be some cleaning up to do? Yes. Will your house smell like a McDonald’s? Not forever, we promise! Open all your windows and journey to the…