Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2022 i Bon Appetit

THIS IS TECHNICALLY OUR ODE TO LATE SUMMER INTO FALL and it might as well be called the comfort issue. We’re leaning in on foods that evoke coziness and joy, particularly pasta, pizza, and all that colorful bounty still at the farmers markets. Think dark jewel-toned blackberries, plums, and eggplants on one end of the spectrum and bright zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers on the other. Pasta is a perennial favorite among our readers, so we turned to Shilpa Uskokovic in our test kitchen to develop dishes that will inspire dinner party menus and midweek family suppers (“Pasta Makes Perfect,” page 58). We know most people already have their own tried-and-true noodle recipes, but I promise Shilpa’s are worth giving a spin. Take the Fresh Pasta With Buttered Tomatoes; the sauce…

Montreal ALL ROADS LEAD TO MONTREAL FOR ME. After working as the chef de cuisine at the iconic Quebecois restaurant Au Pied de Cochon, I spent five years in New York as the chef of Fedora and Chez Sardine, then ultimately returned home to open Marconi with my wife, Molly Superfine-Rivera, in 2016. We wanted to create the perfect neighborhood spot in Little Italy, our corner of Montreal, so we traversed the town to taste what was happening in other parts of the city. We were (and still are) drawn to welcoming, warm spaces with highly personal menus that reflect family kitchens, local growers and producers, and Quebec’s culinary roots. The spots we return to again and again are in areas that don’t often appear in guide books, which is…

When, like seemingly everyone else, I started making sourdough a couple of years ago, I used my classic Le Creuset Dutch oven as a vessel for my boules. Preheated in a 500-degree oven, the cast iron gets rip-roaring hot and retains heat beautifully, helping my loaves develop a deeply bronzed crust. The only problem? Transferring my dough to said rip-roaring hot Dutch oven without sustaining second-degree burns. Le Creuset’s new bread oven solves that problem: Instead of lowering a ball of dough into a high-sided preheated pot, I flip it onto the flat base and cover with the dome. It’s all the benefits of a cast-iron Dutch oven without the danger.…

The Inspiration Growing up in Malaysia, chefs Seleste Tan and Mogan Anthony ate bite-size sweets called kuih. One in particular, the Malaysian Chinese angku kuih, was prized (and consumed) during special occasions due to its tortoise shape, a symbol of longevity in Chinese tradition. Now it’s an everyday snack in Malaysia, and the couple sells it every weekend at their East Village shop. The Glutinous Rice Dough “It has a clay-like texture,” Anthony explains. “Unlike traditional pastry, which bounces back when you press into it, this holds an imprint.” The glutinous rice flour dough incorporates pandan juice, which imparts a grassy, vanilla-like flavor, and beet or red rice powder for that red hue, which represents prosperity in Chinese culture. The dough is then wrapped around the filling, fitted into the…

The best text I’ve ever received was from a guy named Brandoni Pepperoni telling me my pizzas were ready for pickup. That was two summers ago. I drove all the way from Valencia to West Hollywood—SoCal folks know this is a journey—and giddily received my pies from a lanky bearded chef who I called Mr. Pepperoni. Since then I haven’t stopped thinking about those pizzas, perfectly charred and loaded with a farmers market haul of ingredients (edible flowers, hyper-seasonal produce), not constrained to one school or style of pizza making but built upon Mr. Pepperoni’s deep restaurant experience and whims. Now I know his actual name is Brandon Gray—and that I’m not the only one who seeks him out for his distinctive and delicious pizza. Gray has become the pizza…

This night is different from other nights. Last week I was huddled in a foggy parklet listening to triple-vaxxed friends crow about cryptocurrency over wisps of hamachi crudo. Tonight I’m sitting fireside beneath a heavily bearded bison, digging daggers into a feast of wild game, and dinner conversation is…wild. Topics include favorite methods for excavating ungulate innards and the joys of canning raw bear meat. One woman explains how she strategically stashes firearms in case of a home intrusion. Another asks: “Who is Fauci?” Our host, Jen Judge, poses a question. “Where’s the best place to shoot an elk?” “In the heart and lungs!” someone cheers. Yes, but no. “As close to the road as possible,” she says, smiling. It’s an inside-hunting joke I don’t quite get, yet. I was…

1 Heat Source Sweaty palms. Red cheeks. Watery eyes. Anyone who has eaten a spicy chile is familiar with what capsaicin can do. This compound and several related alkaloids are produced by cells mostly found in the pale, fleshy “placenta” directly beneath the chile’s stalk. (Plants in the genus Capsicum are the only things in the world that can produce it!) The heat is distributed to the nearby membrane and seeds—and to a lesser extent, the whole chile—which is why many recipes tell you to remove those parts before cooking to help manage the spice. 2 Scale Model The spiciness of chiles is popularly denoted in terms of Scoville Heat Units (SHU), a scale created by pharmacist Wilbur Scoville. And while it can be a helpful way to gauge a…

DEEP-FRYING IS NOT A WEEKNIGHT ACTIVITY, but shallow-frying—think of it as searing but with an extra glug or two of oil—is absolutely achievable on a Wednesday. Put the technique to work by making cutlets, those thin pieces of protein or vegetables that crisp up on the outside thanks to a layer of breading. In these four recipes, coating and frying is the hardest part; we pair chicken, pork chops, tender white fish, and creamy eggplant with no-cook slaws and salads so you spend less time in the kitchen and more time marveling at your perfectly golden brown results. Crispy Pork Cutlets With Kimchi Slaw Here a jar of kimchi does double duty. Finely chopped, it adds heft and crunch to a cabbage slaw, while a drizzle of the fermenting liquid…

DESIGNERS Jeremiah Brent and Nate Berkus HOME BASE New York City FAMILY TRADITION Jeremiah’s chocolate chip cookies RENOVATION MANTRA “Utilize what’s already there.” Setting the Stage “The kitchen is the epicenter of memory making,” Berkus notes. “We try to bring a narrative so it doesn’t feel antiseptic.” That means accessorizing with pieces associated with other rooms, like table lamps, framed photos, or groupings of pottery. “Every horizontal surface is a chance to personalize a space,” Brent says. “We tuck away appliances and give that square footage to something pretty.” Mornings at Chez Berkus Brent typically begin with dance parties around the island—or atop. At their previous home in L.A. (pictured), the dads could keep an eye on the action from the stove thanks to a serendipitously placed Peruvian mirror above…

Blackberry-Pistachio Mille-Feuille MAKES 5 Mille-feuille isn’t only for French patisseries and cafés. A little puff pastry and some pseudo-pastry cream can turn that beautifully delicate creation into an easy make-at-home dessert. Baking the puff pastry between two baking sheets prevents it from rising too high, ensuring you’ll have crisp, buttery sheets perfect for stacking. The luscious vanilla-and-lemon-infused cream is a simple mix of mascarpone and heavy cream whipped until pipable. 1 17.3-oz. package frozen puff pastry, thawed16 oz. mascarpone⅔ cup heavy cream2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise½ cup (55 g) powdered sugar10 oz. blackberries, halved lengthwise1 Tbsp. plus 1. tsp. fresh lemon juice¼ cup salted roasted pistachios, finely chopped Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat…