Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2022 i Bon Appetit

EARLIER THIS YEAR, I had the pleasure of talking to Dolly Parton for our Dream Dinner Party column. When asked what she’d serve at her ideal dinner, she answered, “Of course, we’d have to have some barbecue ribs.” That pretty much sums up how I felt about this year’s grilling issue: We had to have some ribs. This month we share not only five recipes developed by our test kitchen in “The Big Rib Primer” (page 50) but also information on how different cuts vary in taste, price, and texture. Whether you’re a rib aficionado or a newbie, you’ll find valuable information from our experts. If standing over a fire epitomizes summer, so too do frozen desserts, whether ice pops or ice cream pies. For those days when it’s just…

NOT UNLIKE THE perennial “is a hot dog a sandwich?” question, I have to ask: What is a salad, really? To me, any dish that requires minimal cooking and lets beautiful fresh produce play a starring role is a strong contender. August’s best fruits and vegetables practically beg for the salad treatment, and with the help of heavy-hitting additions like briney olives, hot chiles, nuts, and herbs, they absolutely feel like dinner. So get out your biggest salad bowl and favorite set of servers—tonight we’re making salad, whatever that means.…

4 SERVINGS 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 tsp. cumin seedsJuice of 1 lime2 tsp. sugar3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided2 English hothouse cucumbers (about 1½ lb. total), trimmed1 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed, patted dry½ tsp. ground turmeric4 oz. feta, cut into thin slabsSeeded crackers and basil leaves (for serving) 1. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium. Cook garlic and cumin seeds, stirring, until garlic is golden brown and seeds are fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool slightly; reserve skillet. Add lime juice, sugar, and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to bowl and whisk dressing until sugar and salt are dissolved. 2. Slice cucumbers on a deep diagonal…

Chocolate Sheet Cake With Brown Butter Frosting 12 SERVINGS Come for the chocolate cake (no mixer needed! practically one bowl!), stay for the brown butter frosting. The delicate nutty-toasty taste of brown butter shines through this rich buttercream due to the added toasted dry milk powder. You can find it in the baking aisle of most supermarkets, and when toasted it helps crank the brown butter flavor way up. It is a concentrated source of milk solids, the same stuff that darkens and intensifies in butter as it browns. Think of this as the sheet cake you would serve for any occasion, just bigger, bolder, and better. CAKE Nonstick vegetable oil spray2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar1¾ cups (219 g) all-purpose flour1 tsp. baking soda¾ cup (64 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder…

ANYONE WHO’S STOOD BY A CAMPFIRE (or seen an unsuspecting character get smoke-monstered on an episode of Lost) knows that smoke can be a bit of a stalker. But nothing compares to what California winemakers faced in 2020—the worst (and weirdest) wildfire season in the state’s history. It started with lightning: an estimated 11,000 individual strikes across Northern California the weekend of August 15. Summer thunderstorms are so rare in Napa and Sonoma that people stayed up all night just to revel in the strangeness of it all. Then the clouds parted and the sun rose—and everything went up in flames. Winemakers usually don’t have to worry about wildfires until September, after the grapes have been harvested and the wines have been safely put to bed. In 2020, however, the…

Even though I grew up in Texas, it wasn’t until I lived with my late great-aunt Barb in New York’s Greenwich Village that I realized a person could grill ribs from the comfort of her home. Barb, a native of Kansas City, Kansas, would bake ribs before Memorial Day every spring and then finish them on the grill the next day in her rare Manhattan backyard, sending sweet smoke into the city streets to confuse and torture passersby. She made it look effortless, womaning the grill with a wrist full of bangles, inviting all her friends over, and fixing plates for the building’s doormen. That’s what ribs are about—this communal meal around the picnic table (or lobby) that’s primal, sticky, and sublime. And (with this handy cut-by-cut primer) it can…

Mangoes Over Everything Sun-kissed fruit bursting with sweet-tart flavor, juice running giddily down your arms—is there anything more thrilling than a bite of perfectly ripe mango? We think not. In the next pages we’ll tell you how to select, slice, and season a mango, and where to turn when the fresh fruit is nowhere to be found. Bring napkins. 1 The mango is not a monolith There’s a whole wide world of mangoes out there, and they come in all shapes, sizes, and levels of sweetness. They can be palm-size or face-size, orangey-yellow or green-blushing-red, round or oblong. And then there’s taste (be it lemony, peachy, floral) and texture (custardy, stringy, sappy). Phewf! Countless varieties exist (over 1,000 grow in India alone), but 90% of those available in the U.S.come…

4 SERVINGS 3 green Thai or serrano chiles4 garlic cloves1 cup (packed) coarsely chopped cilantro, divided, plus more8 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided4 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided4 Tbsp. brown sugar, divided2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs3 Tbsp. fish sauce12 oz. green beans, trimmed2 nectarines, cut into ¼"-thick wedges1 medium heirloom tomato, cut into¼"-thick wedges2 Tbsp. salted dry-roasted peanuts 1. Purée chiles, garlic, ½ cup cilantro, 3 Tbsp. lime juice, 2 Tbsp. oil, 1 Tbsp. brown sugar, and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a blender until smooth. Pour marinade into a large bowl. 2. Make 3 short shallow slits across smoother side of each chicken thigh and place in bowl…

4 SERVINGS ½ small loaf country-style bread6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, dividedKosher saltFreshly ground black pepper2 oz. Fontina or provolone cheese1 cup pitted Kalamata olives½ cup drained Peppadew peppers in brine1 very small head of iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced½ medium red onion, thinly sliced1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved, quartered if large10 oz. pearl mozzarella, drained7 oz. sliced deli ham, thinly sliced into strips4 oz. sliced salami, thinly sliced into strips3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar1 tsp. (or more) dried oregano 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Tear bread into bite-size pieces (you should have about 5 cups). Toss on a rimmed baking sheet with 3 Tbsp. oil; season with salt and black pepper. Bake, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and crisp, 14–16 minutes. Let croutons cool. 2. Meanwhile, shave Fontina cheese…

The Catskills I RECENTLY SPENT 18 months in the southern Catskills, an undulating patch of emerald hills and valleys located about 120 miles northeast of New York City. Charming villages are scattered throughout Sullivan County, including Livingston Manor, Liberty, Narrowsburg, and Roscoe (also known as Trout Town, USA, which is where I lived). Our house backed onto the Beaverkill River, near Junction Pool, a revered fly-fishing spot that draws anglers from all over the country. Naturally, trout is on almost every menu: smoked, roasted, or fried. The area teems with locally grown and made bounties: fresh produce, funky cheese, maple syrup, milk, honey, and so much more. It’s no wonder the Catskills has become a destination for weekend getaways and summer vacations. This river-lined paradise is home to jewel-toned lakes,…

Root Beer Float Granita 8 SERVINGS Creamy vanilla ice cream and complex, almost herbal root beer are a match made in soda shop heaven. Here the classic flavors get the granita treatment with a refreshingly icy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. 48 oz. root beer (6 cups)1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milkMaraschino cherries (for serving) Bring root beer to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat; cook until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and whisk in sweetened condensed milk. Transfer to a 13x9" baking dish and let cool, about 30 minutes. Transfer baking dish to freezer and freeze 90 minutes. Using a fork, scrape granita, making sure to get around edges of dish (it will feel like a slushy at the edges but still be fairly liquid in…

Herb Appeal I used to consider myself a great plant mom for only nine months of the year. When the hottest days of summer arrived, I could never seem to keep my pothos and herbs hydrated. The cilantro, mint, and basil in my window box would scream for water almost daily, but by the time I got around to tending to them I was always too late. Anthropologie’s enchanting Nadya Ribbed Watering Can, which doubles as home decor, has been my solution. In winter it acts as a dinner table centerpiece for holding bunches of dried flowers. But during the warmer months, it lives on my living room shelf, ready to be filled and put to work. Keeping it in plain view at all times isn’t just a nice look,…

4 SERVINGS ¾ cup bulgur½ tsp. ground cuminKosher salt5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided12 scallions½ cup coarsely chopped raw pistachiosZest and juice of 1 lemon1–2 jalapeños, very thinly sliced½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus more for servingFreshly ground black pepper2 large avocados, cut into large pieces3 cups baby or trimmed mature arugula 1. Bring ¾ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan. Stir in bulgur, cumin, and a pinch of salt, then immediately cover and remove from heat. Let sit 10 minutes. Fluff bulgur with a fork. 2. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook scallions, turning occasionally, until well charred, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, leaving excess oil behind in pan, and coarsely chop. 3. Reduce heat to medium;…

Splish-Splash Go for a hike or swim at lush Mongaup Pond Campground near Livingston Manor, then picnic on the sandy beach. Something Fishy Visit the Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum to get schooled on angling. Or cast your own line with the guides at Roscoe’s Trout Town Flies. Movie Night For vintage concessions, including the best cinema popcorn I’ve had (mmm…real butter), catch a film at the Art Deco Callicoon Theater. Happy Hour Head to Do Good Spirits for a cocktail like the Catskill Breakfast—coffee spiked with the distillery’s Beaverkill Bourbon Cream liqueur. Stock Up Upstate for a while? Fill your Airbnb kitchen with groceries from Liberty Farm Plus, the best Asian market for miles. Or be like me and stuff your cheeks with spicy tuna sushi and homemade…

I never cooked outside until I got to California. I chose to live in Ojai to be near my family and to have access to amazing produce year-round. I wanted to live a life in the country but be in touch with the world. I also wanted to do something that made me feel empowered. I didn’t have an intuitive sense of how to work with an open flame when I was cooking on an apartment stove. Camping—and cooking while camping—taught me that intuition. You’re really trusting your instincts when you cook outside: how hot something is or how to build a good fire. It’s also given me a way to connect to nature. You don’t need a lot to build a temporary outdoor kitchen. I shop for meat, fish,…

Just Bring Plates And cups. And cutlery. Everyone needs them and there are never enough to go around. Your fellow attendees will thank you when they aren’t eating pasta salad out of their palms. Be Picky This isn’t your grandma’s holiday dinner—don’t feel obligated to put everything on your plate! Saying “Oops, I must have missed your dish” is way less awkward than getting caught shoveling a friend’s hard work into the garbage. Allergen Alert If you’re taking a dish that has any major allergens—like dairy, nuts, soy, or shellfish—be sure to write out a clear label to give any guests with specific dietary needs a heads up. Leave With Leftovers This is one of the few cases where leaving with food that others made is actively encouraged. Come prepared…

If you want a creamy dessert without the fuss of busting out an ice cream maker, semifreddo is the move. With a fluffy, frozen mousse-like texture, the Italian treat usually contains eggs. This version comes together more like a simple no-churn ice cream, with yogurt or labneh as a tangy base and no egg cooking required. Folding in whipped cream keeps it light and scoopable. It’s also super flexible: Replace the mango and sumac with the ingredients below (or riff with what looks good at the market) and follow the method as written. PLUM–BLACK PEPPER YOGURT SEMIFREDDO 5 medium plums, peeled, coarsely chopped (about 3½ cups) + ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper RASPBERRY-CARDAMOM YOGURT SEMIFREDDO 1 lb. fresh raspberries* (about 2⅔ cups) + 1 tsp. ground cardamom *No need…