Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Bon Appetit

AROUND OUR OFFICE I’m always pleasantly surprised at how diverse our staff’s food preferences are. Who is a dessert person, who is not? Who goes hard for French cassoulet and who prefers ramen? Our differences notwithstanding, we all agree on at least this: When it comes to vacations, we pick restaurants before hotels and choose museums for their proximity to wine bars. So in this, our travel issue, we are thrilled to share intel from some of our favorite food obsessives. Andy Baraghani, whose food graced the pages of BA every month when he worked in our test kitchen, shares recipes from his new cookbook, The Cook You Want to Be, as well as memories from his trips abroad in “Been There, Ate That” (page 48). We feature six recipes,…

IT’S FINALLY springtime, meaning it’s time to run—not walk—to your local market and fill your basket with the earth’s green gifts. Here, we’re celebrating the spirit of spring with four verdant weeknight recipes featuring bouquets of cilantro, bundles of basil, bunches of pungent green onions, and beyond. “Green foods convey the sensation of freshness,” says test kitchen director Chris Morocco. “That flavor comes through in so many ways, channeled by chlorophyll crashing through cell walls as you crunch through snap peas. Green food tastes literally alive.” To store your green goods, Morocco recommends drying them first and storing in a just-damp kitchen towel inside a resealable plastic bag.…

4 SERVINGS 1 small bunch cilantro, tough stems removed, leaves and tender stems coarsely chopped4 scallions, coarsely chopped3 green Thai or serrano chiles4 garlic cloves1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.Morton kosher salt, plus more⅓ cup vegetable oil, plus more for steak1 tsp. cumin seeds¼ cup salted or unsalted roasted peanuts, crushed1½ lb. ½ "-thick skirt steak, cut into5"-long piecesFlaky sea salt 1. Pulse cilantro, scallions, chiles, garlic, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a food processor (a mini processor works well here) until a coarse paste forms. Transfer to a small heatproof bowl. 2. Heat ⅓ cup oil in a small skillet over medium-high. Cook cumin until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Transfer to bowl with paste; add peanuts and mix well. Set scallion…

Start Your Engine For a 1936 Cotswold-style estate in New York, Bridges’s client found inspiration in the driveway of all places—resulting in cabinets painted the same green as their son’s vintage Ford pickup truck. “Ideas can come from anywhere,” she notes of the kitchen, designed in collaboration with architect David Abelow. “It’s fun when people don’t take things so seriously.” The rich hue complements the green shades in the dining room’s hand-painted wallpaper. “A kitchen shouldn’t be stand-alone. It should have a relationship to adjoining spaces.” History Lessons At her Harlem apartment, located in a landmark 1901 building, she looked to the past, modeling the traditional cabinetry after the home’s original doors. Benjamin Moore Hemlock blue paint complements her Torino Damask wallpaper, which she designed after a historic painted ceiling…

When American food writer Rebekah Peppler moved to France in 2015 she wasn’t quite sold on the romantic ideal that lures most visitors. “Paris had always been in the back of my mind, not so much as this fantasy city but a place that I would have to live for my job at some point,” Peppler says. Several years after earning a pastry arts degree at New York’s erstwhile French Culinary Institute, Peppler journeyed to the City of Light in search of greater work opportunities. Since then, life in Paris has burgeoned more than just her career. “France has taught me that food brings people together, but the connection happens whether there’s a meal on the table or not,” she says. Enamored with the intimacy of French hospitality, Peppler started…

I grew up in Texas, but my family is from Lombardy and Sardinia, so I’ve been going back and forth to Italy since I was a kid. I’ve always been attracted to the food and wine culture of Piedmont. With six growing seasons more or less instead of four, the region has incredible produce; the town of Alba is where white truffles originated. As you drive up and down the hills and mountains, you’re surrounded by green fields and vineyards, with fog often creeping in. When there’s a thunderstorm coming, you might even hear cannons early in the morning or late at night—the bursts of sound are thought to disperse the rain and protect the grapes. Because Piedmont has everything I could ask for in terms of food, I knew…

A friend gifted me the most lovely coffee cup from the ceramists at Brooklyn studio Lost Quarry, which sent me to the company’s website (lost-quarry.com), looking for more. I was especially drawn to this earthy organic vase ($625). I’ve long been a fan of Dina Nur Satti, another Brooklyn ceramic artist with roots in Sudan and Somalia. I can’t wait to fill this gorgeous Zir Vessel, a symbol of Nubian generosity, with spring blossoms (from $425; nurceramics.com).…

4 SERVINGS 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey½ tsp. smoked paprika1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.Morton kosher salt, plus moreFreshly ground black pepper3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 cup Castelvetrano olives, smashed, pits removed3 cups cooked rice1 Tbsp. za’atar, plus more for serving2 cups coarsely chopped greens (such as spinach, kale, or chard)Zest and juice of 1 small lemon2 oz. feta, thinly sliced into planksCoarsely chopped dill (for serving) 1. Place chicken in a medium bowl. Sprinkle paprika and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt over chicken; season with pepper. Gently mix with your hands to combine. 2. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Arrange chicken in pan in a thin, even layer and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown and crisp underneath, about…

4 SERVINGS 8–10 oz. fresh or dried wheat noodles(such as lo mein, udon, or ramen)Kosher salt¼ cup gochujang3 Tbsp. soy sauce2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar2 Tbsp. tahini2 tsp. toasted sesame oil2 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 bunch broccoli rabe, coarsely chopped4 garlic cloves, finely choppedFreshly cracked black pepperHandful of torn basil leaves, plus sprigs for servingToasted sesame seeds and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cool running water. 2. Whisk gochujang, soy sauce, brown sugar, tahini, sesame oil, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to combine; set sauce aside. 3. Heat vegetable oil in a wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add broccoli rabe and garlic; season with salt and…

Marché Popincourt The fruit stand at this farmers market is my favorite place to shop in the summer. When I buy melons, they always ask when I’ll be eating them (tonight, tomorrow, in three days?)—and pick one that’s ripe exactly when I need it to be. La Cave Verre Volé I always pair a market run with a stop at this natural wine store for a bottle of Marie Rocher’s Emmenez-Moi or Julie Balagny’s O Bella Ciao. Le Verre Volé has multiple locations across the city, but I frequent La Cave on Rue Oberkampf. Folderol Ordering a glass of something bubbly and a plate of thinly sliced finocchiona at this wine bar and ice cream shop is one of the top perks of living in Paris. I’ll inevitably head home…

“What changed my life in Piedmont is its chefs’ dedication to detail.” 1. ALL’ENOTECA, CANALE The food at the high-end All’Enoteca, where Secchi worked for a year, keeps getting better, he says. The way chef Davide Palluda plays with the line between classic and contemporary continues to impress him. A recent meal included vitello tonnato reimagined as a one-bite course: The Piedmontese sauce of tuna and capers was shaped into a peanut, served on a cracker instead of veal. “You’re expecting a peanut, but it’s tonnato sauce,” Secchi says. “It was a mind-blowing meal.” 2. OSTERIA DA GEMMA, RODDINO In a space that resembles a cozy living room, Osteria da Gemma immerses guests in local tradition. There’s no menu here—you get what chef Gemma Boeri and her cooks feel like…

1 OKAY, SO WHAT IS TEA? Whether it’s floral Earl Grey or roasty hojicha, all tea begins with the shrub Camellia sinensis. It’s native to a subtropical stretch of land between present-day India and China that also includes areas of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar. When manipulated by skilled hands, the young leaves of that plant can produce a delicious caffeinated brew. Much of that transformation is due to oxidation, the same reaction responsible for the browning on a sliced apple. There are hundreds, even thousands, of distinct tea styles, but most fall into one of these six categories: Green If you apply high heat to a tea leaf within a few hours of picking, you’ll halt oxidation, thereby preserving its fresh green flavor and vegetal aroma. Green teas are…

As a kid I called Havanna Alfajores “Oreos Argentinos.” Opening a box of the soft, crumbly sandwich cookies (my favorites are filled with dulce de leche) was like breaking into a treasure chest; I’d dunk them in warm milk and watch the chocolate coating dissolve away. Each bite still holds memories of summers with family in Buenos Aires and walks on the grand Avenida 9 de Julio, bellies full of asado, speaking Spanish and gesticulating wildly. It’s been years since I’ve visited, but I can always find a box at my local Latin grocer. The taste alone brings me close enough for now.…

4 SERVINGS ½ small red onion, thinly sliced1 lemon, halved¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.Morton kosher salt, plus more4 large eggs, room temperature1 large egg white, room temperature2 garlic cloves, finely grated1 (packed) cup baby spinach⅔ cup whole milk, room temperature1 cup tender herb leaves (such as dill, cilantro, basil, and/or parsley), plus more for serving⅔ cup (83 g) all-purpose flour2 Tbsp. cornstarchFreshly ground black pepper2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces4 oz. smoked salmon 1. Place a rack in middle of oven and place a medium ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, on rack. Preheat oven to 425°. Place onion in a small bowl; squeeze in juice of ½ lemon and add a big pinch of salt; set aside. Slice remaining ½ lemon into wedges and set aside for…

I WAS BORN AND RAISED IN MEXICO CITY, so it’s been really exciting over the past decade to see its popularity explode internationally. As the managing partner of Cosme in New York and L.A.’s Damian, I prefer the kinds of spots that are a little less obvious, ones that show a bit more local flavor. Ciudad de México (or CDMX) is one of the largest cities in the world, juxtaposing really old, traditional institutions that have been doing the same thing forever with newer restaurants that are pushing the boundaries. Nothing reflects the city’s character today like this combination of the classic and the avant-garde. From street food to the fanciest dining rooms, you can have incredible experiences at every price point without ever sacrificing flavor. My advice: Make two…

If I ever find myself in Beruit, needing to tell a hot stranger that I want to kiss them, I can consult a Google doc from Andy Baraghani. The doc includes useful phrases, museum musts, and restaurant recs—so I can go find myself a nice shawarma snack if things don’t (or do) work out with that stranger. Andy’s travel notes are organized and plentiful. “I take it seriously,” he says. “Even if you’re not staying in fancy hotels, traveling is a luxury.” Andy is not a traveler who sleeps in. He spends weeks researching where to eat, what to do, and where to shop, tapping his global network of food people and poring through photos on Yelp, Tripadvisor, and local blogs. “My research gives me the lay of the land,”…

Spice-Crusted Carrots With Date and Herb Salad 4–6 SERVINGS These crisp-tender carrots get their texture from high-heat roasting and a shawarma-style spice blend. Dates add sweetness and chew to an herby-spicy salad that works with anything from pan-fried chicken to roasted cauliflower. CARROTS ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1. tsp. Morton kosher salt½ tsp. ground cinnamon½ tsp. ground coriander½ tsp. ground cumin½ tsp. ground turmeric½ tsp. sweet paprika½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper⅛ tsp. ground cardamom⅛ tsp. ground cloves2 garlic cloves, finely grated1½ lb. medium carrots, tops trimmedto ½", scrubbed, halved lengthwise SALAD AND ASSEMBLY 2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided1 small red onion, thinly sliced7 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped2 jalapenos,…