Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2022 i Bon Appetit

AS A TUCSON NATIVE I’ve spent the past three decades savoring the city’s distinctive combination of aromas and flavors. First comes mesquite—the robust, earthy smoke from this native wood triggers memories of impromptu bonfires and family gatherings with grilled skirt steaks. Second, thin, lardy Sonoran flour tortillas, which make all other tortillas feel like dry, puffy flatbread. Then there are the roadside burritos: Never bursting with fillers, they showcase tender grilled or braised meats that you dress according to your taste. (For me that means just a spritz of lime, a pinch of onion and cilantro, and a touch of fiery chile de árbol salsa.) This mountain-ringed desert city is home to a diverse population of Native communities, immigrants, and college kids. Strolling downtown you might spot a day-tripper from Hermosillo…

Spirit Lake Maple Syrup “If you’re from a maple syrup area, you know what real maple syrup should taste like: caramelly toffee but not overly sweet. This is true traditional syrup. Once you have it, you don’t go back; you can taste the nature within it.” $12 “The Yocha Dehe tribe near Napa Valley grows incredible olives to make this earthy dark green oil. It’s not a precolonial ingredient, but we support all Native producers.” SÉKA HILLS EXTRA VIRGIN ARBEQUINA OLIVE OIL, $14 Sakari Cedar Smoked Salt “Spring Alaska Schreiner of the Valdez Native Tribe forages for the cedar leaves used to smoke this sea salt, which has the most amazing fragrance and taste. I use it at home as a smoky finishing salt.” $12 Ramona Farms Heirloom Black Tepary…

SUDDENLY, June Rodil realized that the exit signs in March, a new fine dining restaurant in Houston, were ugly. Or maybe just that they could be beautiful. So she worked with the design team at Studio Robert McKinley to procure custom exit signs based on vintage ones (you know, when fonts were cooler). Then she got the new signs retrofitted to meet safety requirements—for that warm, up-to-code glow. When I dined there last year, I thought they were the prettiest exit signs I’d ever seen. Every detail at March has been so carefully considered that Rodil, a partner and master sommelier, laughs at herself when she tells me the lengths she went to find the perfect bathroom scent. But details matter! Especially when you’re trying to craft the most elegant,…

When we’re pressed for time, we lean on a handful of pantry and fridge-door staples that make a 30-minute meal taste like we’ve been cooking all day. Here are a few of our favorites: Thai Curry Paste Ingredients like lemongrass, makrut lime, and coriander root take time to source and prep, which is why a dollop of premixed jarred or canned paste is so clutch. It’s an easy way to add heady aroma and flavor by the spoonful. Harissa This North African spice paste delivers so much more than heat. Think subtle chile flavors—fruitiness, a delicate astringency—along with intriguing spice notes like caraway, coriander, and cumin. Soy Sauce A little bit of soy sauce—or tamari if you’re avoiding wheat—goes a long way. It subtly enhances other flavors while also providing…

STEP- BY-STEPS Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t) TIPS & TRICKS 1 STOCK CAN BE SIMPLE Many wonderful stocks are built around a roster of ingredients, from bones and dried seafood to spices, veg scraps, and cheese rinds (see p. 48 for inspiration). But the pot needn’t always be a full house! This simple, speedy, and versatile version is made with just two vegetables (both alliums, of course) and is ready in under an hour. HERE’S HOW: Quarter 2 onions and halve 2 heads of garlic crosswise. Heat a slick of olive oil in a large pot over medium, then add your alliums. Cook, turning as needed, until lightly charred, 8–10 minutes. Add 8 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer until…

LOW-EFFORT, HIGH-REWARD DINNERS p. 1 0 INDIGENOUS PANTRY MUST-HAVES p. 2 6 Caffeine Kick There’s no better workday pick-me-up than excellent coffee. But during the winter I won’t brave wind tunnels or even a drafty foyer for it. My tiny desk-friendly pour-over station means I don’t have to. The Chemex makes 16 ounces, or two-ish thermoses, of coffee with a generous splash of milk—just what I need to refocus and reset—and the Fellow kettle’s precise temperature dial and elegant gooseneck let me baby my beans to my neuroses’ content. It takes just seconds to pour fresh brew into Hay’s sleek insulating Sowden thermos. After a few sips I’m caffeinated and composed.…

The Hot Spots • Coctelería La Palma Mariscos y Mas • 5 Points Market & Restaurant • Ruiz Hot Dogs Los Chipilones • The Citizen Hotel • La Indita • Sushi on Oracle • Barrio Charro • Mercado San Agustin • Noodleholics • El Taco Rustico • Tanque Verde Ranch • Tito & Pep • Tumerico When to Visit Spring. The weather isn’t triple digits yet, so you can soak in the clear skies and blooming desert flowers. September also works beautifully with lush post-monsoon greenery. Where to Stay The Downtown Clifton, a hotel with a notable in-house restaurant and bar, is walking distance to Tucson’s cocktail corridor on Scott Avenue. What to Bring Back Monsoon Chocolate bars and bonbons, flour tortillas from Tortilleria Doña Esperanza…

THERE’S A PHOTO THAT CAPTURES my first weeks of motherhood, but it’s too embarrassing to publish. I’m sitting on a folding chair at the top of the stairs in a narrow hallway. The TV tray in front of me holds a pile of Chinese food. I’m pouting, my body curled small with my arms crossed tight, posed like a kid in time-out. My parents, who’d come to Philadelphia to help with the baby, wanted me to follow the postpartum Chinese principles of confinement or “zuo yue zi,” which, according to my father, translates from Mandarin to “sitting still indoors for a month.” During this period of rest, a new mother is fed special foods, such as rich chicken soup perfumed with ginger and wine or bone broths laced with plump…

Why don’t all American stadiums serve poutine at sporting events when it’s the best stadium food? —CANADIAN COREY For the same reason we’ll never get universal health care. We know it’s good for us, but we’re so far gone now it’d be embarrassing to start over. However, I’ll never give up hope! What’s the move in terms of taking home that souvenir helmet after you eat all the nachos out of it? —SOUVENIR STACEY As someone who has written extensively about the sanctity of souvenir helmet nachos, I can tell you what I do. Wipe the bowl out with dry napkins (water complicates things) and wash it more thoroughly when you get home. Like the Detroit Tigers, you’re just going to be happy with good enough for now. What is…

SCALLIONS ARE LIKE a good friend—available, adaptable, and always a pleasure to see. In her debut cookbook, I Dream of Dinner (So You Don’t Have To), out April 12, recipe developer Ali Slagle shares low-effort, high-reward recipes that keep weeknight cooking from getting redundant by using different techniques for common ingredients like the humble scallion. In Slagle’s recipe for Roasted Roots With Green Salsa (page 12), scallions are roasted alongside carrots and sweet potatoes, adding smoky char and depth to a fresh chunky tomatillo salsa. Roasted Roots With Green Salsa Don’t ditch your carrot tops—they add earthiness to the bright salsa that adorns these tender carrots and sweet potatoes. If your carrots came without greens, add cilantro instead 4 SERVINGS 3 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 lb.), scrubbed, cut into…

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum Don’t skip this combination zoo, botanical garden, aquarium, and natural history museum, where a mountain lion, a red-tailed hawk, and an ocelot live in their native settings. Sabino Canyon Hike the scenic trail to Seven Falls for a moderate trek, but take waterproof shoes for the waterfalls. Mission Garden Learn about the layered history of Sonoran agriculture at this fascinating living museum. Saguaro National Park Don’t hug the saguaros, but admire their abundance alongside the stunning mountain sunset view. Arizona Zipline Adventures Check out the landscape from above, then eat at Peppersauce Kitchen, where you can bring your own beer and build your own burger.…

Give It a Rest Never thought I’d call a spoon rest elegant, but here we are. These carved sgraffito ceramics from D.C.–based Kuzeh bring order and beauty to my kitchen. $38; kuzehpottery.com Let’s Toast! Everyone in my family owns this Panasonic FlashXpress toaster oven. It’s the best kitchen appliance out there. I use mine to roast veggies, reheat leftovers, and even bake cakes. $170; amazon.com Flower Power I am always looking for candles that freshen up my kitchen without making it smell fake. The light floral scent of this Gulab candle smells like rosewater: clean and not at all overpowering. $30; shopkishmish.com Spice Up Your Life I like a heavy hot sauce, and many here in the U.S. are a little too light or limey for me. This warming West…

Spiced Chicken and Dates With Endive 4 SERVINGS Part lettuce cup, part salad, here sweet and spicy ground chicken (cooked with red curry paste and dates) is paired with fresh and crunchy endive. ⅓ cup raw almonds4 oz. Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped (about ½ cup)3 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 lb. ground chicken4 scallions, white and dark green parts separated, thinly sliced on a diagonal1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated2 garlic cloves, finely grated½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.Morton kosher salt, plus more2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. red curry paste2 large or 3 medium endive, leaves separated½ cup mint leaves, torn if large Preheat oven to 350°. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let cool;…

Mini Knafeh With Rose and Pistachio MAKES 24 Knafeh is usually made in a large round tray and filled with a mix of Arabic cheeses, but in this version individual desserts are formed in muffin pans and stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella. Food coloring provides the iconic bright orange appearance, but if you skip it, you’ll still get a subtle golden hue. For an anytime treat, freeze the shaped knafeh (disposable pans work great for this) and bake them from frozen, adding 3–5 minutes to the cook time. 12 oz. whole-milk mozzarella, grated on the large holes of a box grater6 oz. whole-milk fresh ricotta1 cup ghee or clarified butter, melted½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.Morton kosher saltOrange food coloring or red andyellow food coloring, preferablyoil-based or powder (optional)1 lb.…