Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2021 i Bon Appetit

I CAN’T RECALL EXACTLY WHAT GOT ME interested in the year 1971. It might have started with a sliver: Half a century is, after all, a natural inflection point. What I do know is that the discoveries that the razor-sharp Bon Appétit team and I made about the year provoked a lot of discussion and engendered the question, “Is 1971 the year that changed everything culinarily? If you’ve seen the terrific documentary The Black Godfather, you’ll remember a graphic that shows the endless sway of music executive Clarence Avant. He influenced multiple generations of artists, who then went on to influence subsequent generations. The reporting of Elyse Inamine likewise shows the enormous reach of Alice Waters, who opened her trailblazing restaurant, Chez Panisse, in 1971. When I wrote my book…

4 SERVINGS 3 Tbsp. raw skin-on almonds4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 1¼ lb.)Kosher salt2 large bunches Swiss chard, preferably rainbow (about 1 lb.)1 large shallot, thinly sliced1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar½ tsp. cumin seeds, crushed5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling6 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely chopped⅓ cup kalamata olives, pitted, coarsely chopped 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until darkened slightly, 6–8 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop. 2. Meanwhile, season chicken with salt; set aside. Remove ribs and stems from Swiss chard leaves. Tear leaves into 3" pieces. Cut thicker ends of stems on a diagonal into 1" pieces; discard thin ends. 3. Combine shallot, lemon zest, lemon…

YEARS AGO THE TERM CLEANSE meant two things to me: skin-care regimens and restrictive diets. But as my perspective has expanded and my knowledge of Ayurveda has increased, I’ve learned that “to cleanse” can have a much deeper meaning. In Ayurveda, an ancient health science originating in India, cleansing is a practice that gives the digestive system an opportunity to rest, repair itself, and clear out waste and toxins—without fasting. It can be particularly meaningful this time of year as we transition from cold, dark months of hibernation to the warm, bright months of growth ahead. Ayurveda generally tailors treatments to the individual, but here are a few cleansing tips that should help all body types take on this next season with more energy, strength, immunity, and mental clarity. EAT…

The Dough Like many iconic hip-hop tracks, this dough is all about collaboration. Gray hit up chefs and pandemic bakers for advice, and the result is a pizza with the right amount of crackle and chew, plus extra wheaty flavor from locally milled Rouge de Bordeaux flour. The Sauce Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes are cooked down with dried oregano and thyme, “the best garlic in the world” from Milliken Family Farms in Santa Barbara, and Thai chile powder. “It adds a unique spiciness and a smoky vibe,” Gray says. The Veg Gray goes for the leafiest broccolini from Coleman Family Farms in nearby Carpinteria. “The leaves crisp up like chips in the oven,” he explains. The Sausage “This is my interpretation of Jimmy Dean’s breakfast sausage,” Gray shares. “I grew up…

ALEXANDER SMALLS chef and restaurateur The first time I met Edna Lewis, I was at a crossroads. I was a young opera singer, but I’d hit a glass ceiling, a certain level that was difficult for African American men to go beyond. And food was my great love. Edna told me, “Well, you have to do what your heart is telling you.” My heart was telling me to set the table for the world. To do what she did. To show people that the African American kitchen is as important—if not more so—as any. “Well, it sounds like you’ve made up your mind,” she said. And that was all the affirmation I needed. Five restaurants later I know that what Edna gave me were clear principles. Because of her philosophy…

SHOPPING LIST SHOP TOUR p. 24 GOOD NEIGHBOR RASPBERRY-AJWAIN JAM, $7; goodneighborshop.com GOOD NEIGHBOR TAHINI BUTTER, $11; goodneighborshop.com HON’S HONEY, $16; honshoney.com KEEPWELL GINGER VINEGAR, $15; keepwellvinegar.com NORMANN COPENHAGEN WHISK, $20; normann-copenhagen.com SLOWDOWN STUDIO SAKAMOTO THROW, $230; slowdownstudio.com THE POUR p. 30 CARDINAL SPIRITS VODKA SODA, $4; warehousewinesandspirits.com DON CICCIOE FIGLI LA PERLA AMBROSIA SPRITZ, $25 per 4-pack; donciccioefigli.com EMPIRICAL SPIRITS CAN 02, $45 per 4-pack; empirical.co GOLDEN RULE MARGARITA, $20 per 4-pack; goldenrulespirits.com TIP TOP NEGRONI, $32 for 8 cans; tiptopcocktails.com HOLI HAI! pp. 54–61 P. 60 HOLI HOORAY HOLI POWDER, $25 for 10 packs; holihooray.com EGG HEADS pp. 81–84 P. 83 ZWILLING MADURA PLUS NONSTICK PAN, $50; food52.com TRAVEL PLANNER SHOP TOUR p. 24 GOOD NEIGHBOR 3827 Falls Rd., Baltimore; 443-627-8919; goodneighborshop.com DISH DECODED p. 27 BRANDONI PEPPERONI…

AFTER WHAT feels like the world’s longest winter (for many reasons), Lara Lee’s crunchy and bright Gado-Gado Summer Rolls (p.12) are getting us excited about warm-weather cooking. Her recipe is a cross-cultural twist on two street food icons: refreshing Vietnamese goi cuô´n, or summer rolls, and Indonesian gado-gado, a colorful composed salad with a spicy peanut dressing. To serve, Lee likes to arrange the halved summer rolls on a platter along with sliced hard-boiled eggs and crunchy, airy prawn crackers—two common gadogado ingredients—with a side of peanut sauce for dipping. Perfecting the rolling technique takes some practice, but we’re using that as an excuse to make these again and again.…

4 SERVINGS 4 6–8-oz. skinless, boneless whitefish fillets (such as cod, halibut, or haddock)2 Tbsp. melted virgin coconut oilKosher salt1 serrano chile, thinly sliced2 13.5-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk2 Tbsp. honey2 Tbsp. yellow mustard1 tsp. ground turmeric4 oz. green beans, asparagus, or sugar snap peas, cut into 1" pieces½ cup cherry tomatoes, halved2 tsp. fresh lime juiceCilantro leaves, steamed rice, and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Preheat oven to 325°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and arrange fish on top. Drizzle oil over fish and season both sides with salt. Roast until flesh flakes when top is pressed with a spoon, 15–20 minutes, depending on the thickness of your pieces. 2. Meanwhile, combine chile, coconut milk, honey, mustard, and turmeric in a high-sided skillet or wide saucepan.…

I DIDN’T GROW UP EATING BEEF STROGANOFF; I grew up thinking about it. This was the ’80s, in a mostly white Midwestern town where my Vietnamese refugee family had been resettled and where I had to get used to friends calling my grandmother’s food weird, smelly, and gross. They’d run away from her stir-fries and pho, back home to the meatloaves and tuna casseroles we thought were weird, smelly, and gross. But their food was everywhere and ours hadn’t yet been mainstreamed or appropriated, so I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what American was supposed to mean. I studied commercials, kept track of what characters ate in the books I loved, like the tomato sandwiches in Harriet the Spy. I thought all named foods—Salisbury steak, chicken…

poet an excerpt from the 1997 poem THE ONLY TRUE LOVERS ARE CHEFS OR HAPPY BIRTHDAY EDNA LEWIS So yes this is a love poem of the highest order because the next best cook in the world, my grandmother being the best, just had a birthday and all the asparagus and wild greens and quail and tomatoes on the vines and little peas in spring and half runners in early summer and all the wonderful musty things that come from the ground said EDNA LEWIS is having a birthday and all of us who love all of you who love food wish her a happy birthday because we who are really smart know that chefs make the best lovers… especially when they serve it with oysters on the half shell.…

Vernon, California, 1971: Jose-Luis Saavedra was having a hard run selling his spicy bottled Cuervo Sauce. Then Jose Cuervo (yes, that one), despite being a distant relation of Saavedra’s wife, sent a cease and desist letter. The run was done. But in between working two jobs, a determined Saavedra rebranded as “Charro,” replacing the cuervo (crow) on the logo with a traditional central Mexican horseman in a wide-brimmed sombrero. New name, new look, same peppery hot sauce. Things were looking good (10,000 labels printed!) until the poor man was sued again for copyright infringement. But Saavedra would not accept defeat; he rebranded once more to “Tapatío,” a nickname for folks from the city of Guadalajara, where his children were born. The combination of the new new name with the dignified…

At the end of the ’60s, the kitchen counters of ambitious American gourmands had two appliances: a blender and a stand mixer. Together they could take on just about any recipe Julia Child, James Beard, or Craig Claiborne would ask of the home cook. But in 1971 a retired physicist named Carl Sontheimer changed everything. After discovering the Magimix, a clunky industrial blender-slicer-grater-chopper, at a housewares show in Paris, he signed a deal to be its exclusive U.S. distributor. Months of tinkering led to an almost completely new machine (one that reduced the risk of sliced fingers), with a new name: the Cuisinart. Sontheimer’s marketing skills matched his genius for gadgetry. Using free machines to win over Child, Claiborne, and Beard, who then told followers the $175 food processor was…

1. Prepare your palette. We love Holi Hooray Holi Powder ($25 for 10 packs; holihooray.com), which is washable. For the game of colors, pour powder onto thalis or small trays, or mix with water to fill up water balloons or spray bottles. 2. Wear white. The bright colors pop on white, but anything goes—Mistry remembers “at least one goth-punk sous-chef who insisted on wearing all black” at their Holi parties. 3. Set the mood. Find a parking lot, safe rootop, or open field for the game of colors. Search for a Holi playlist on whatever music streaming platform you use—you can’t go wrong with anything labeled “Bollywood hits.” 4. Snack accordingly. You can serve food before or after the game of colors. We prefer eating first, but if you’re feasting…

4 SERVINGS ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil⅔ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, preferably skin-on2 large shallots, thinly sliced6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced6 Tbsp. kecap manis, dividedKosher salt8 oz. firm tofu, sliced." thick12 8" rice paper rounds3 cups 2" matchsticks crunchy vegetables (such as carrots, cucumber, and/or bean sprouts)½ head of romaine lettuce, thinly sliced4 hard-boiled eggs, halvedPrawn crackers (for serving) 1. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook peanuts, tossing, until slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Add shallots, garlic, and chiles and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots and garlic are softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer peanut mixture to a blender; wipe out skillet and reserve. Add 5 Tbsp. kecap manis and ⅔ cup water to…

4 SERVINGS 3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling1 large shallot, coarsely chopped1 lb. mixed mushrooms (such as crimini, shiitake, oyster, and/or maitake), cut into bite-size piecesKosher salt, freshly ground pepper1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about 1 cup), plus rind⅔ cup semi-pearled far3 Tbsp. (or more) low-sodium soy sauce4 celery stalks, thinly sliced, plus any leaves coarsely chopped1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juiceCrusty bread (for serving) 1. Heat garlic and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium until oil around garlic is sizzling, about 1 minute. Add shallot and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned, 10–15 minutes. (Initially, pot will look dry, then very wet before mushrooms start to brown.)…

Find these picks and more at goodneighborshop.com…

IF YOU’VE SEEN the shelves at any liquor store, millennial-targeted TV spots, or creepy Instagram advertising campaigns, you’ve probably noticed that canned cocktails are everywhere. So in preparation for socially distanced picnics, we’ve cracked can after can in search of the ones that stand out above the rest. Here’s what we learned about how to buy the beverage of the season. SIMPLE, CLASSIC COCKTAILS ARE USUALLY A SAFE BET. We’re talking stirred cocktails made with liquor and a sweetening agent—like an old-fashioned or a Negroni. The general rule of thumb: The simpler (and boozier) the cocktail, the better it’s bound to taste from a can. IF IT’S GOT CITRUS, APPROACH WITH CAUTION. Fresh citrus juice’s signature bright and tart flavor can turn soapy and bitter the longer it sits, making…

Charlie and the Sponsored Content Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory, starring Gene Wilder, was the first—and perhaps only—movie to be produced by a food corporation, Quaker Oats, which launched two candy bars alongside the film’s release. Willy Wonka Super Skrunch Bars and Willy Wonka Peanut Butter Oompas never made a profit, though, probably because they were basically the same flavor and not at all based on candy in the movie. Oompa oops! Cuppa Capitalism In 1971 a mug of coffee at the newly opened Starbucks in Seattle cost a whopping…nothing. The samples seduced customers into paying $1.25 a pound (expensive!) for freshly roasted beans—and maybe some spice blends and “fancy oolong” tea. Eventually, the store would change ownership; the mermaid mascot would lose her belly button; and Starbucks would…

When Black Panther Party member Ericka Huggins left prison on May 25, 1971, she was hungry. She had been hungry every day for the two years she’d served at Connecticut’s Niantic Correctional Institution, a high-security facility for female offenders. There, prison officials used food—the persistent coldness of it, the lack of nutrients in it, the sheer nastiness of it—as a weapon of control. Fruits and vegetables were scarce, and meat was mysterious. “It was just air food,” Huggins remembers. “You couldn’t tell what it was because it was gray, no matter what.” But the incarcerated women had no choice. “You ate it or starved.” Eventually, Huggins and other women chose to starve. They staged a hunger strike on behalf of pregnant prisoners, who received no prenatal vitamins or additional nutrients.…

Za’atar Chicken Cutlets With Cabbage Salad 4 SERVINGS Breading chicken with panko plus homemade za’atar (which has more sesame seeds than most store-bought blends) makes for cutlets with tons of nutty, floral, and tangy flavor. Making your own spice mix ensures that the quantities are just right. TAHINI SAUCE 1 small garlic clove, finely grated½ cup tahini¼ cup fresh lemon juice3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oilKosher salt CHICKEN AND ASSEMBLY 3 large eggs, beaten to blend1 cup all-purpose flour1 cup panko½ cup raw white sesame seeds⅓ cup crushed dried thyme and/or oregano¼ cup sumac2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 1½ lb. total)Kosher saltVegetable oil (for frying; 3–4 cups)½ head of green cabbage, thinly sliced½ small red onion, very thinly sliced2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice6 salt-brined Middle Eastern–style or…

1 WHAT’S IN A LABEL? If you think the periodic table is confusing, take a look at the egg section of your grocery store. So many symbols and numbers! Why are some cartons $2 a dozen and others $8? While the terminology can be hard to parse, as a general rule, we recommend eggs that are pastureraised or free-range, humane, and organic. They’ll cost you more, but they’re better for the farmers, the workers, the animals, and the planet. At the store we reach for Handsome Brook Farms, Vital Farms, and Pete & Gerry’s. Or take a trip to the farmers market, where you can ask the farmer about her chickens and direct your money straight to the source. The eggs are likely to be fresher too. To learn more,…