Innholdsfortegnelse for June-July 2020 i Bon Appetit

LAST SUMMER, back when you would do things like have people over to your house, my wife got the idea that we should throw a big Fourth of July party. Invite anyone and everyone who happened to be around. We pushed a couple of long tables together. We hung up string lights and, sure, I may have broken a few while balancing on a painter’s ladder. We threw a tablecloth over a rickety, rusty side table and deemed it our spritz station, stocking it with Aperol and Prosecco and seltzer and whatever other bottles people rolled up with. When friends started arriving at 6 p.m., it was still blazingly hot out. I always forget just how late the sun sets in early July. We wore sunglasses, not to look cool,…

The 101 HOW TO BUY Pick heavy eggplant with smooth, shiny taut skin (if they’re dull or bruised, they’re likely old). Find them summer through fall, or year-round from warmer places like Mexico and Florida. HOW TO STORE Eggplant is best the day you buy it, but you can store it for a few days either at room temperature out of direct sunlight or in the warmest part of your fridge wrapped in a towel. Pro Tip: Score Your Eggplant Use the tip of a small knife to score the cut faces of halved eggplants in a shallow crosshatch pattern before roasting them. This encourages browning and creates lots of crannies for salt and other seasonings to soak in. Why are people always salting eggplant? When you’re making, say, eggplant…

1. Prepare a grill for medium heat. Toast cumin seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Let cool. 2. Coarsely crush cumin seeds with a mortar and pestle (or on a cutting board with the flat side of a chef’s knife). Transfer to a large bowl. Add lemon juice and honey. Whisk in ¼ cup oil, then add chile and ginger. Season dressing with salt. Let sit while you grill carrots (this will give chile and ginger time to infuse into dressing). 3. Toss carrots and remaining 2 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking sheet to coat; season with salt. Grill carrots, turning occasionally, until lightly charred in spots and tender, 14–18 minutes. Transfer carrots to bowl with dressing and toss…

1. Place lentils in a large saucepan and pour in water to cover by 4". Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lentils are tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes from the time the water reaches a boil. Drain well, then let cool at least 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, mix together yogurt, lemon zest, lemon juice, and half of garlic in a small bowl. Season with salt. 3. Mash mushrooms, miso, paprika, 2 Tbsp. oil, and remaining garlic in a medium bowl with a spoon to combine. Add lentils and mix and smash until partly mashed but with lots of whole lentils still remaining. Add flour and vigorously stir until mixture holds together when squeezed in your hand; if it doesn’t, continue to…

ONE OF MY EARLIEST MEMORIES is of my father cooking a whole hog in a refrigerator. He gutted an old International, took out all the insulation and plastic, and put in metal pipes. On our farm in South Carolina, that was the barbecue pit. Others used cinder blocks. In Chicago, fish tanks. You can trace the ingenuity of Black people through barbecue across the country. I BARBECUED MY FIRST HOG at age 11. Nice and slow. We’d use every part of the animal. It brought our family together. But like most farmers of his generation, my father wanted his children to go to college, which took us away from the land. SO I GOT MY PH.D., moved to New Orleans, and became a NASA aerospace engineer. I also kept up…

SHOPPING LIST TABLE OF CONTENTS p. 2 DIP ICE CREAM SCOOP store.moma.org HOME & AWAY pp. 11–12 GORILLA TUB redgorillausa.com KISHIDA SPICY YUZU KOSHO toirokitchen.com MOVE SPEAKER sonos.com SUPERGOOP UNSEEN SUNSCREEN supergoop.com TXAKOLINA RUBENTIS ROSÉ wine.com VINTAGE POSTERS filmartgallery.com TRAVEL PLANNER AWAY pp. 37–40 B’S CRACKLIN’ BBQ 725 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta; 678-949-9912; facebook.com/BsCracklinBBQSAV BESHARAM RESTAURANT 1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco; 415-580-7662; besharamrestaurant.com CAMPBELL’S QUICK STOP 5685 Dinkins Mills Rd., Rembert, SC; 803-499-5872; destination-bbq.com/stores/campbells-quick-stop GRADY’S BARBECUE 3096 Arrington Bridge Rd., Dudley, NC; 919-735-7243 HELEN’S BAR-B-QUE 1016 N. Washington Ave., Brownsville, TN; 731-799-3255 JONES’ BAR-B-Q DINER 219 W. Louisiana St., Marianna, AR; 870-295-3807; facebook.com/jonesbarbqdiner KISMET ROTISSERIE 4666 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-400-3700; kismetla.com/kismet-rotisserie-chicken RICKY’S BBQ 491 F. Guerry Rd., Hell’s Half Acre, SC; 843-372-1593 RODNEY SCOTT’S 1011 King St.,…

HOW CARLA GRILLS AT HOME p.16 PLUS! Away Tour our fave new shop, go whole hog on barbecue history, and more.…

THERE ARE A LOT of things I love about grilling, which for me is the culinary equivalent of staring into a glowing fireplace. My husband and I even had a brick hearth built in my backyard a few years ago to facilitate my live-fire pursuits. This is cooking you get to do outside under the sun and/or stars, but unlike a campsite firepit, your house is right there. Best of both worlds! When the grilling is good, nothing is better—the glazed ribs, the fat steaks, the cheesy sausage wheels! But ensuring that everything is perfectly cooked can be stressful and elusive, especially for novice grillers. Seemingly easy recipes are harder than you think, as anyone who has frantically poked at a grate full of blazing patties or carbonized barbecue chicken…

1. Bring rice, a pinch of salt, and 2½ cups cold water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir once, cover, and reduce heat to low. Cook until water evaporates and rice is tender, 18–20 minutes. Remove from heat; let sit, still covered, 10 minutes. 2. Whisk sugar, ¼ cup vinegar, and 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a small bowl until sugar dissolves. Stir into rice; re-cover. Let sit until ready to use. 3. Whisk maple syrup, miso, tamari, ½ tsp. red pepper flakes, and remaining ¼ cup vinegar in a small bowl. Set glaze aside. 4. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Season salmon with salt; cook, skin side down, shaking pan occasionally, until skin is…

1. Gently toss fruit, chile, vinegar, sugar, and ½ tsp. salt in a medium bowl to combine. Let sit until fruit is spicy and flavorful, about 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, gather cilantro into a bundle and cut into 2"-long pieces. Transfer to a medium bowl, add scallions and celery, and toss to combine. 3. Drain fruit in a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl; set fruit aside. Add oil, soy sauce, and lime zest to marinating liquid in bowl and whisk to combine. Pour dressing over cilantro mixture and toss to coat. Add reserved fruit and sesame seeds and toss gently to combine. Taste and season with more salt if needed. 4. Transfer salad to a platter and serve with lime wedges. 4 SERVINGS 1 lb. underripe stone fruit…

The Pickles The farmers market dictates the house-made pickles (beets! Radishes!). But for the pickled cucumbers and spicy peppers, the chefs go with store-bought Middle Eastern versions. “They’re perfect just the way they are,” Kramer says. The Chicken After testing 20 chicken breeds and 15 dry rubs, the chefs found their dream duo. They went with a small free-range bird, great for absorbing the secret spice mix (we hear there is turmeric and Aleppo-style pepper). After brining the chickens overnight, they slide them into a Dorégrill La Rotisserie, the French machine used at every poulet rôti joint in Paris. The end result: golden brown skin every time. The Toum This punchy Lebanese sauce is typically made with just raw garlic and oil, but Hymanson and Kramer add blanched garlic to…

LACQUERED RIB EYE P. 58 Gone are the days when a seared slab of beef was the “safe” option on a restaurant menu—these days it’s where the real fireworks are. Juicy rib eyes gilded with an umami-packed bark that would make a pitmaster blush. Short ribs artfully scored to mathematically maximize surface area and char. Sublime sauces worthy of unabashed plate licking. While we’ll never turn up our noses at a simple perfectly grilled salt-and-pepperonly piece of steak, our favorite chefs have convinced us that sometimes, well, more is more. Which is why this summer, we’re pulling out all the stops, taking pages out of the professional kitchen playbook to ensure every steak that hits our grill gets the star treatment it deserves. We all know we’re supposed to be…

IT’S TELLING, REALLY, that in Brad Leone’s New Jersey backyard, the ash-catching bowl at the bottom of his Weber has rusted and fallen out from overuse. His haphazard setup—and the fact that he grills, against all test kitchen protocol, barefoot—means that he once stepped on a stray hot coal. He yowled, hopped on one foot for a bit, and then got over it. There’s chicken to flip and glazes to brush and cold wine to drink. Welcome to the wild and woolly world of grilling with Brad. Brad’s love of cooking outdoors is no secret (see It’s Alive: Brad Makes Campfire Ribs on Bon Appétit’s YouTube channel, as well as this direct quote to me: “I like to cook outside”), and the chaos is often caught on camera. But never…

Sun Safely I could rub in standard face sunscreen for five minutes and still see its chalky white residue. That’s why I added Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen ($34; supergoop.com) to my skincare routine. It’s clear, scentless, and so light I feel like I’m wearing nothing. Turn It Up I recently got my first Sonos speaker and I am never looking back. It makes everyone from Frank Ocean to Michael Barbaro sound better. Now I need the weatherproof and portable Move speaker ($400; sonos.com) to round out my collection. The Do-It-All Condiment If you MTV Cribs’d my fridge, you’d find citrusy, spicy Kishida yuzu-kosho ($24; toirokitchen.com). I put it in stir-fries and on top of grilled steak and swirl it into soups and tofu marinades. It’s the Inspector Gadget trench coat of…

WHEN OUR TEST kitchen editors develop noodle recipes these days, there’s a good chance they’ll call for fresh ramen noodles. They’re rich, chewy, and closer in DNA to just-made pasta than instant ramen. The fresh stuff is also easier to find than ever before, either at Asian markets or your favorite specialty grocer. We now eat ramen noodles with everything from a spicy sambal-flecked Bolognese to a big rawveg bowl tossed with a bracing dressing (see the Salad Ramen on page 27). Our go-to is Sun Noodle Kaedama No. 20 noodles ($4 for 10 oz.) They keep for weeks in the fridge, though if you want to stock up, stash a few packs in the freezer too.…

1. Whisk vinegar, olive oil, lime juice, soy sauce, sesame seeds, mild red pepper flakes, and sesame oil in a small bowl to combine. Set dressing aside. 2. Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer to a large bowl, add half of reserved dressing, and toss to coat. 3. Divide noodles among bowls. Top with vegetables and drizzle with remaining dressing. 4 SERVINGS ½ cup seasoned rice vinegar¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup fresh lime juice¼ cup soy sauce2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds1 tsp. mild red pepper flakes (such as Aleppo-style or Maras)1 tsp. toasted sesame oil20 oz. fresh or 12 oz. dried ramen noodlesKosher salt5–6 cups shredded or shaved vegetables (such…

Osmanthus Scent Diffuser “Shen Chin’lun, owner of Handhandhand, is obsessed with tracing the scents of childhood memories. This one’s my favorite because it reminds me of fall in Shanghai, when the native osmanthus trees are blooming with small sweet-smelling yellow flowers.” $55 “Every day Zhang Xin’rong goes out to the mountain forest in Huzhou with a machete. He comes back with bamboo that he sundries and turns into these cute bags, which are perfect for picnics.”BAMBOO SATCHEL $ 80 Lil’ Guy Oven Mitt “People who come into our shop love this mitt, made by Taiwanese studio Brut Cake from upcycled vintage cotton. You can put it on your hand like a puppet and make it talk!” $33 “Norlha Textiles hires nomadic artisans to collect molted yak wool from the Tibetan…

HERE’S THE SCOOP This no-churn method relies on sweetened condensed milk and whipped cream to sidestep a traditional custard base. It’s stupid easy, but there are a few keys to success: WHIP IT GOOD You want peaks that hold their shape but still look soft and billowy, like the dreamiest cloudscape. If you overwhip, the cream will look curdled and grainy; simply fold in more heavy cream 1 Tbsp. at a time until smooth. FOLDING > STIRRING You spent all that time beating air into the whipped cream—don’t deflate it now. Stir just a dollop into the thick sweetened condensed milk to lighten the mixture, then use a rubber spatula to gingerly fold in the rest. TAKE TIME TO TEMPER Straight from the freezer, homemade ice cream is too hard…

STEP-BY-STEP TIPS & TRICKS 1 Your food processor is not a substitute When you’re looking to finely chop a few pounds of carrots, celery, and onions for soffritto or grate a bag of potatoes for fritters, the food processor is there for you. But it will never produce the silky-smooth results a good blender can. When you add a sufficient amount of liquid to a blender, you create a spinning vortex that sucks the ingredients toward their doom (i.e., the blades), turning roasted vegetables into satiny soup or cubes of ice into soft slush. A food processor can’t do that. The blender is best when you want to make… • Icy drinks (hello, piña coladas)• Puréed soups, like mushroom, squash, or tomato• Emulsions, like hollandaise, aioli, or mayonnaise• Smoothies, duh!•…