Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2016 i Bon Appetit

THE CHEF SAYS: “The spices in these meatballs are very versatile. Pair them with different condiments—tzatziki for Greek or curry for Indian— for an appetizer or snack.” —SHAUN BEHRENS, chef, Luna Red SPICED LAMB MEATBALLS 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS The mix of spices complement the lamb perfectly and would work with ground beef as well, if that’s more your thing. The restaurant serves these meatballs with a smoky walnut romesco sauce. Get the recipe at bonappetit.com/romesco. ½ tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds ½ medium onion, chopped 1 cup (firmly packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems 1 cup (firmly packed) parsley leaves with tender stems 2 ½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 large egg yolk 1 ½ tsp. paprika 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper ⅛ tsp. cayenne pepper 1 lb.…

7 QUESTIONS FOR Andrew Rannells The star of Broadway’s Falsettos has the right attitude on holiday overeating (do it!) What’s a typical Thanksgiving for you? “It gets tricky if I’m in performances. Last year I was doing Hamilton, so we went to a restaurant called Buttermilk Channel [in Brooklyn]. It wasn’t the family Thanksgiving I grew up with, but they had an amazing menu.” And if you have the day off? “I like to cook. I do all the traditional things: turkey, stuffing, potatoes. I never want to mess with the staples too much. I feel like people get really sensitive about Thanksgiving menus, and if you don’t have the things they’re used to, they get disappointed. But I like to modernize it a bit and toss in one thing…

ARRIVAL Despite its “summer water” rep, rosé‘s underlying savory notes make it great for fall. It’s a nice way to greet guests but not so nice that latecomers will have FOMO, as if a butler came around with Krug before they got there. Try: Le Sot de L’Ange 2015 “La Boutanche” Rosé Loire Valley, $18 (in a liter!) HORS D’OEUVRES No need to rage before sunset, so stock lowoctane dry Rieslings (choose ones labeled “Trocken,” the driest designation). The most versatile white is a good match for spreads with everything from crudités to deviled eggs. Try: Jochen Beurer 2013 Riesling Trocken Württemberg, $19 TO START DINNER Sit everyone down to Lambrusco, the subtly sweet, sparkling red. Effervescent wines are always right for toasting, and Lambrusco’s prickly fizz cleanses the palate…

HONEY-GLAZED BEETS GLAZED OVER fast, easy, fresh Take a breather from roasting. Our stovetop method for Glazed Vegetables yields glossy, tender results and works on basically any firm veg. Combine 1 lb. hardy vegetables (try quartered, peeled small beets; halved, peeled medium carrots or parsnips; or 1"-thick fennel wedges), 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, 1 tsp. honey, a generous pinch of salt, and 1 cup water in a large sauté pan or saucepan over medium-high. Cover, bring to a simmer, and cook, adding water by the tablespoonful if pan is dry before vegetables are done, until vegetables are nearly crisp-tender (centers should still be firm), 12–15 minutes. Remove lid and cook until liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes, then cook, tossing vegetables occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Add a splash…

The fewer the bells and whistles, the more likely a tool is to survive in our test kitchen. 1 THERMOPOP POCKET THERMOMETER Small, accurate, and, most important, fast, this thermometer registers the internal temp of your turkey within seconds, a feat usually reserved for pricier models. $29; thermoworks.com 2 OXO STEEL POTATO MASHER As long as you don’t mind a little texture, this is all you really need to make mashed potatoes. It’s comfortable to grip, and the curved coils crush those bits of potato hiding in the pot. $15; oxo.com 3 MICROPLANE FINE GRATER A must for creating a dusting of orange zest for cranberry sauce, this model is easier to maneuver than the longer, thinner rasps. This Pro Series version has a rubber foot that grips the cutting…

SWEET POTATO AND BRUSSELS SPROUT OKONOMIYAKI 8 servings For this nontraditional take on okonomiyaki, you need to julienne the potato. Use a mandoline with the shredder attachment, or slice it very thinly into planks and then crosswise into very thin strips. Makes a terrific appetizer! 3 oz. brussels sprouts, ends trimmed, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup) 1 medium sweet potato, julienned (about 4 cups) 1 scallion, thinly sliced 1 large egg, beaten to blend Kosher salt ⅓ cup all-purpose flour 6 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided Sriracha, Kewpie mayonnaise, bonito flakes, and furikake (for serving) Combine brussels sprouts, sweet potato, scallion, and egg in a large bowl; season with salt. Mix with your hands until vegetables are evenly coated. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and toss to combine (mixture shouldn’t be…

from p. 122 KEY MOMENT: ROASTING GINGER Chef Josh Walker’s recipe for kale salad prompted some double takes. It instructed us to broil unpeeled ginger for about 45 minutes before puréeing it (skin and all) into a dressing— not the way we usually cook with the rhizome. But then we tried it. Slightly smoky with a complex spiciness, it made for the most aromatic, funky-sweet sauce we’ve ever tasted. Which is to say, we were happy to have leftover ginger purée to play around with. Our next moves? Adding some to cold dressed soba noodles, using a schmear as a condiment for banh mi, or even sneaking a spoonful into good ol’ chicken soup. —CHRIS MOROCCO from p. 34 Culture Club Shelf-stable rice koji—basically rice grains that have been inoculated…

THE CHEF SAYS: “Our stone-milled cornmeal is grassier and more complex than the traditional stuff. I’d recommend using a cornmeal that’s a little coarse and special, lik e Anson Mills or Geechie Boy.” —JEREMIAH LANGHORNE, chef, The Dabney SKILLET CORNBREAD WITH CHIVES 8 SERVINGS The restaurant doesn’t add sugar, but some BA staffers wanted a touch of sweetness. Read our debate in Prep School on page 159, then decide for yourself. 2 cups coarse-grind cornmeal 2 Tbsp. sugar (optional) 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 1 large egg 1 ½ cups buttermilk 1 Tbsp. lard or vegetable oil ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives Flaky sea salt (for serving) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 10" cast-iron skillet Place a rack…

To find out where each of these beauties came from, head to Sourcebook, page 160. Morning Glories From the gooey cinnamon rolls at your favorite bakery to the nutty sticky buns drawing crowds at the coffee shop, breakfast buns have never been bigger The Big Three Essential intel on keeping your swirly buns straight Sticky Buns The upside-down cakes of the bun world. Typically inverted after baking on a pan coated with a butter–brown sugar glaze (that’s the “sticky” part) and sprinkled with nuts, the rest is open to revision. The banana bread bun at Hungry Pigeon in Philadelphia has banana purée in the dough and filling. At Willa Jean in New Orleans, the dough is spread with pastry cream and ground rose petals (!) before being topped with local…

Just like Pomeroy, you need a board with a moat. Boos makes good ones (from $90; williamssonoma.com). A Cut Above Last Christmas, chef Naomi Pomeroy’s carving board couldn’t get the job done. This Thanksgiving, that won’t be a problem MY HOUSE IS A GATHERING PLACE for the holidays—I bought it specifically because the kitchen is big enough for all 20 or so of us to get together there. A friend of mine who is a professional woodworker outfitted it with cabinetry and a beautiful wood island, which I essentially use as a cutting board. Last Christmas I roasted six chickens Zuni style—salted, high heat—and as I was carving them, my dad, Toby, pointed out that the juices were running down to the floor. Right then and there he decided he…

You already know what will be on the table the evening of November 24: a turkey flanked by the best supporting side dishes. Namely, a lot of golden brown. But Thanksgiving isn’t just one night; it’s a weekend—and a long one at that. So what do you eat the rest of the time? For the answer, we turned to Anna Jones, the vegetarian chef and author of A Modern Way to Cook. She may be British, but Jones digs Thanksgiving, which she spends in Los Angeles, where her sister lives. “I love this time of year—the pumpkins and squash and dark, leafy greens,” she says. In the days surrounding the holiday, while houseguests are running around and all the energy is focused on the big meal, breakfasts and lunches should…

Like an athlete, I spend a lot of time thinking about my pregame strategy. Especially at Thanksgiving. Given the energy it takes to plan and prepare the turkey, the stuffing, and the pies, the last thing I want is for people to ruin their appetites on cheese balls. And yet, appetizers are the fun part! This year, think of hors d’oeuvre hour not as a burden but as an opportunity. With the rest of the menu more or less set in stone, appetizers are the place to get creative. Here are my guidelines to ensure that the annual eating marathon starts out on the right (and kind of light) foot. 1 Give the People What They Want And that is something salty, fatty, and spicy, but not so intensely salty,…

Ace your serve with our new turkey. carving video at bonappetit.com/turkey-carving SET YOUR TABLE U P FOR SUCCESS Mix your own antiques with a few dazzling new pieces MEET THE CHEFS Chefs Ann Redding and Matt Danzer always cook for Thanksgiving, and it’s typically a formal affair. Last year they had 20 people at their NYC restaurant, Uncle Boons. This year they’re taking inspiration from their newer spot, Mr. Donahue’s, which is named after Danzer’s grandfather and focuses on American classics. “We do casual all the time, so it’s nice to make it feel really special for Thanksgiving,” Redding says. For this menu, they modernized dishes from their childhoods—but, sadly, the Jell-O salad was left behind. EARL GREY– BOURBON PUNCH Combine ¼ cup loose Earl Grey tea (or use 4…

9 AM WEDNESDAY 1 GET THEE TO THE STORE! Pick up all of the supplies you need for the big day in one fell swoop. Having your ducks in a row from the start is key to this project. Fair warning: Today (a.k.a. Turkey Eve) is probably the craziest day of the year to be in a grocery store, period. You’ll be fine, but if you’re reading this a few days or even a week before the feast, do your shopping in advance. We’ve got your grocery list, along with a rundown of all the hardware (pots, pans, etc.) you’ll need to serve this meal, in a tear-out page in the back of the magazine. HEAD TO PAGE 154 FOR THE COMPLETE SHOPPING LIST. HAVE IT YOUR WAY Prefer to…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 14–20 THE DABNEY 122 Blagden Alley NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-450-1015; thedabney.com EDMUND’S OAST 1081 Morrison Dr., Charleston, SC; 843-727-1145; edmundsoast.com THE FLYING PIG 1168 Hamilton St., Vancouver; 604-568-1344; theflyingpigvan.com LUNA RED 1023 Chorro St., San Luis Obispo, CA; 805-540-5243; lunaredslo.com THE MOMENT pp. 30–32 HUNGRY PIGEON 743 S. Fourth St., Philadelphia; 215-278-2736; hungrypigeon.com LODGE BREAD COMPANY 11918 Washington Blvd., Los Angeles; 424-384-5097; lodgebread.com MEYERS BAGERI 667 Driggs Ave., Brooklyn; 347-696-8400 SISTER PIE 8066 Kercheval St., Detroit; 313-447-5550; sisterpie.com TARTINE BAKERY 600 Guerrero St., San Francisco; 415-487-2600; tartinebakery.com TRIFECTA ANNEX 126 SW Second Ave., Portland, OR; 503-299-2000; trifectapdx.com/annex WILLA JEAN 611 O’Keefe Ave., New Orleans; 504-509-7334; willajean.com COOK LIKE A PRO p. 34 SARDELLA 7734 Forsyth Blvd., St. Louis; 314-773-7755; nichestlgroup.com LOVE LETTER p. 38 BEAST 5425…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY HUSBAND AND I CANNOT STOP DREAMING, THINKING, AND TALKING ABOUT THE MARGARET’S MAPLE SUGAR PIE AT THE FLYING PIG IN VANCOUVER. IF WE HAD THE RECIPE, IT WOULD BE A STAPLE FOR THANKSGIVING AND JUST ABOUT EVERY DINNER PARTY. MARGARET’S MAPLE SUGAR PIE MAKES ONE 9" PIE There’s no maple syrup in this pie (not a mistake), but the finished product will remind you of maple-sugar candies thanks to the caramel notes in the brown sugar. DOUGH 1 tsp. sugar Pinch of kosher salt 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 4 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces ¼ cup chilled lard or shortening Nonstick vegetable oil spray FILLING AND ASSEMBLY 2 cups (packed) light brown sugar 1 cup heavy cream ½ cup (1…

Baker’s Choice Want to make the ultimate pumpkin pie this year? Start with these stylish and practical tools A pie bird vents steam, which keeps the bottom crust from getting soggy. Le Creuset pie bird, $11; lecreuset.com Shape Up To update your pie’s look, punch holes in the dough of the top crust with cool cutters, or layer on cutouts made from extra dough. Ateco 24-piece geometric shape cutter set, $13; webstaurant store.com STAFF PICK True Blue “l love the lacy cobalt pattern, which peeks through as guests serve themselves. Can a pie plate moonlight as home decor?” Art et Manufacture d’Annette stoneware pie plate, $75; food52.com —Meryl Rothstein, senior editor Cut It Out No more fighting over the biggest piece: This cutter creates eight uniform slices. Stainless steel pie…

THE PRO NICK BLUE Sardella / Clayton, MO Breaking the Mold It adds umami, lends sweetness, and makes meat more tender. Meet the ingredient of the future: koji by AMIEL STANEK AT SOME OF THE MOST inventive restaurants in the country, there’s mold in the food. (Stay with us here.) And it’s making everything it touches taste distinctly, shockingly delicious. We’re talking about Aspergillus oryzae, also known as koji, the same mold that transforms soybeans into umamipacked Japanese staples like miso and soy sauce. Chefs are buying rice that’s been inoculated with the mold and then dehydrated, and are using those kernels (also known as rice koji) to do everything from cure meats to season sauces. A quick science lesson: Koji produces enzymes that convert the starches in grains and…

IN-N-OUT (OF POWER) NELSON A. ROCKEFELLER once said no politician could win in New York without being photographed eating a hot dog from nathan’s. Times haven’t changed: DONALD TRUMP tweeted two fast-food photographs from his private jet: the first with a mcdonald’s burger and fries, the second with a bucket of kfc over which he loomed…holding cutlery. * * * Surveillance footage emerged of HILLARY CLINTON, in shades, ordering a chicken burrito bowl at a chipotle in Ohio. Yup, she paid extra for guac. * * * BERNIE SANDERS went for the “full California experience” at an in-n-out near Berkeley—ordering a cheeseburger and fries, which (naturally) he shared with kids. The most high-profile food event of the election was when DONALD TRUMP tweeted a photo of himself eating a TACO…

LET’S BREAK I T DOWN Cutting up a hard winter squash is a pain. But following these steps will at least prevent you from actually inflicting pain. 1 For stability, slice ¼" off the stem end and base of the squash. Stand it on a cut end and halve from top to bottom. 2 Scoop out seeds. To peel the squash, use a vegetable peeler—not a knife. (Better to dull a $4 tool than your best kitchen blade.) 3 From here, you are home free. (And you’re allowed to pick up a knife again.) Slice, cube, grate: The world is your kabocha. Kabocha Pilaf with Coconut Combine 2 Tbsp. dried currants with 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar in a small bowl; set aside. Heat 2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil in…

taking stockholm FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 160. First come the cool-kid neighborhoods, then the cool-kid coffee shops. Nowhere is that truer than in Stockholm, where the age-old fika tradition—in which Swedes take regular caffeine and conversation breaks—is not just a way of life but a way to show off their distinctly stylish tastes. Unlike the at-home, fine-china coffee klatches of previous generations, the new guard sheds that formality. They’re going for Scandinavian beans— roasted lightly so the drip coffee is less bitter and a bit “green”—and they’re enjoying them in neon-lit spots that tout proprietary blends. Wanna join in? Here are five ways to get the experience right.  STAY HERE Oaxen Krog chef Magnus Ek converted a 1930s Dutch ship into…

The first Thanksgiving Sarah Jessica Parker ever hosted was a nightmare—literally. “I was living in Los Angeles and wanted to impress my boyfriend and his family. I had never cooked a turkey in my life and had this awful dream the night before that I had only cooked a carcass,” Parker says. Fortunately her premonition didn’t come to pass, and since then, the actress has mastered the holidays: She delegates some of the cooking to her husband, Matthew Broderick, focuses her attention on side dishes like baked sweet potatoes and baby peas with grainy mustard, and encourages guests to pitch in. “I have seven siblings and I like to give everyone a chance to bring something that makes them happy,” she says. “My mom does the mashed potatoes, my niece…