Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Bon Appetit

CHARLESTON SOUTH CAROLINA Want to experience the heart and soul of Charleston? Taste the local cuisine. When you taste the fish you taste our waters, when you taste the produce you taste our fields. Comprised of heirloom recipes proudly passed from one generation to the next, Lowcountry cuisine has evolved over the past 300 years, celebrating Charleston’s authentic flavors. unforgettable HOSPITALITY The pulse of Charleston has been connected to its kitchens since the late 1600s when a rare combination of geography, latitude, and attitude gave rise to the Lowcountry’s prized hyper-local cuisine. From the Carolina Gold rice harvested on the banks of local rivers to the bounty of fresh seafood, the legacy of readily available, high-quality ingredients is an indelible part of the local food culture. Today, Charleston is a…

IF YOU ALMOST BOUGHT A TICKET TO JAPAN FIVE TIMES As a restaurateur who has run kitchens in Tokyo and New York, Ivan Orkin (of Ivan Ramen) has been studying and cooking Japanese food for more than 30 years. It’s his perspective as a gaijin, or foreigner (Orkin grew up on Long Island and fell in love with Japanese food while working as a restaurant dishwasher), that makes The Gaijin Cookbook ($30, September) so distinct: Instead of trying to write a treatise on Japanese cuisine, he created a highly personal book about what a Jewish guy from New York has soaked up over the years. It’s a good example of how to approach the food of a culture that’s not your own with respect and deference—and oh yeah, it’ll make…

You’ve got your local shop, your go-to bottles of Gamay, your talking points on blends versus co-ferments. But wine and the culture surrounding it are constantly evolving, and the only way to keep up is to keep exploring. From not-sweet German Riesling to predinner vermouth spritzes, this is what BA’s wine editor is most excited for this fall (and what you, obviously, should be too). 1 I’m Crushing on Central Europe I can’t speak to your personal life, but I can say with certainty that my relationship with wine is polyamorous. And right now I’m very involved with Central and Eastern European wines. These countries, some of which were once cloaked behind the Iron Curtain, are creating some of the most exciting wines in the world. From new expressions of…

Though I used to be a pastry chef, I would rarely serve dessert were it not for two things: (1) my desire to please those for whom it is nonnegotiable (a.k.a. most people I invite over) and (2) my desire to place a proverbial and sometimes literal cherry on top of an evening (do you get it?). I don’t mean to send you down a YouTube rabbit hole trying to learn how to make a 17-layer cake—you can go as big or as small as you have the physical and emotional space for. A bowl of fruit on ice. A box of wafer cookies. An upside-down apricot tart using store-bought puff pastry, say. There are few times where the phrase “It’s the thought that counts” applies, and this is one…

Spice Cinnamon and nutmeg are classic choices, but coriander and fennel are also delicious. Use 2 tsp. and make sure it’s fresh and fragrant. Zest Toss 1 tsp. lemon, lime, grapefruit, or orange zest into the filling when you add the sugar to infuse the fruit with a citrusy aroma. Heat For a savory-sweet edge, add 1 tsp. black pepper, 2 tsp. Tajín or Aleppo-style pepper, or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes to the fruit.…

END OF SUMMER SIGNALS MANY things: Camp comes to a close, a new school year is almost in session, and everyone is finally home, which means getting back in the habit of regularly scheduled family meals. It’s the perfect way to sit down together and reconnect over some delicious home cooking. There are never too many cooks in the kitchen when the kids are involved, so enlist them to help. Then, grab the essential tools, appliances, and bowls for mixing and mincing with ease—so you can maximize meaningful bonding time with loved ones around the table. You’ll find everything you need for mealtime and more by shopping at homedepot.com/decor. Shop HOMEDEPOT.COM/ DECOR…

HOPE TASTES LIKE plantains and pernil. Two years after Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit Puerto Rico, rebuilding efforts have led to an increased emphasis on sustainable farming, breaking up the colonial legacy of industrialized agriculture and reliance on imported food while also doubling down on native ingredients. Now local farmers enjoy steady business from seasonally minded chefs pushing the culinary heritage of cocina criolla. Both farmers and chefs are powered by a resilient spirit that can be witnessed in real time, as La Placita de Santurce is packed once more with dancers balancing flaky empanadillas and Medalla beer. At these upstart and legacy spots, the food of Puerto Rico has never felt more Puerto Rican. The New-School Staple Husband-and-wife team Francis Guzmán and Amelia Dill, who met at Range in…

1. Brisket Fried Rice When slicing brisket, Hoang saves the burnt ends for fried rice, his best-selling side. The familiar peas, carrots, and eggs are plenty visible, but the unique tang comes from Hoang’s secret ingredient: kimchi. 2. Smoked Turkey Banh Mi A crusty-yet-fluffy baguette from the French Riviera Bakery down the street gets layered with smoked turkey, house-pickled daikon, jalapeños, and a nice thick schmear of Terry Wong’s house-made chicken liver pâté. 3. Thai Peanut Butter Sticky Ribs Barbecue purists, avert your eyes. These pork ribs come slathered in an umami-rich blend of peanut butter, ketchup, soy sauce, and Thai red curry paste—with chopped peanuts and Thai chiles for texture and heat. 4. Smoked Brisket A Pitmaker offset smoker is Hoang’s weapon of choice. He bathes his beef in…

THERE IS AN UNSPOKEN rule about classic steak houses: Nobody who sits down to under-seasoned steak or oppressively heavy creamed greens can complain because it’s not really the steak that you came for. You’re there for the vibes, not the food, which tends to be—without sounding harsh—never that great. But what if I told you that you could *have it all?* Perfect martinis, crispy baked potatoes with all of the toppings, delightfully rare meat, and vibes aplenty, all in your own home. It’s this type of “looks ambitious, is simple” dinner party that I evangelize about in my new book, Nothing Fancy, where my mission is to make you feel like “Steak House Night in America” is something that even the most casual and unorganized of us (me!) can execute…

BJ Dennis does not want this story to be about him. He tells me this approximately 27 times over three days, as we barrel down the swampy coasts of South Carolina and Georgia in a boiled-crawfish-red Hyundai Santa Fe with the A/C cranked to five. He tells me a few more times in our follow-up calls, and again over text message. “This ain’t about me.” That’s the refrain. “This is cool and all, but it ain’t about me.” At first I’m tempted to read it as a classic humblebrag. Lots of chefs say things like this; lots of actors and musicians and other famous types do too. But as is the nature of humble-braggarts, most don’t actually mean it. BJ Dennis means it. I FIRST HEARD ABOUT Benjamin “BJ” Dennis…

Deliciously Unexpected Reimagine the way you enjoy meat with our deliciously unexpected Aidells Whole BlendsTM offerings—a thoughtful blend of chicken, vegetables, and ancient grains. Experience amazing flavor and fulfilling satisfaction with about half the amount of chicken as traditional sausages and meatballs. Visit aidells.com/products/whole-blends It’s Showtime at Chicago Gourmet Bon Appétit presents Chicago Gourmet is celebrating all things food and entertainment this September—and it’s going to be epic. Join chefs Andrew Zimmern, Rick Bayless, Sarah Grueneberg, Iron Chef Morimoto, and many more for a fabulous weekend in Millennium Park. Highlights include celebrity chef cooking demos, wine and mixology seminars, book signings, and delicious food, wine, spirits, and beer tastings. Plus, special movie-, TV-, and theater-inspired culinary events throughout the week are sure to bring down the house. It’s time for…

Hot Cake “That’s beautiful” was the immediate response I got when I texted a photo of my latest loaf to my great friend and baking pen pal Caroline. “It’s not me,” I wrote back, “it’s the pan!” When baked in this Nordic Ware fluted pan, a pound cake or humble banana bread emerges (forgive my hyperbole) like a butterfly from a cocoon: stunning, intricately designed, and a different creature entirely. It makes for a dessert that practically demands a compliment—because we all know half the fun of baking is the part where you get to show off afterward.…

Love Your Veg Anytime a friend asks me for meat-free recipes that won’t leave them hungry a few hours later, I point them to Heidi Swanson, the cookbook author and woman behind the beloved blog 101 Cookbooks who developed these beautiful recipes. She’s a longtime vegetarian and the kind of industrious, effortlessly elegant cook who can make tofu and lentils as appealing as a bowl of guanciale-flecked carbonara. (If you think I’m being hyperbolic, just ask her 100K Instagram followers.) Her dinner criteria: It must be substantial and satisfying—think hearty soba tossed with coconutty roast kale, or a fragrant late-summer vegetable curry—and not create too many dirty dishes. You don’t need to be a vegetarian to appreciate that. Tomato Fried Rice Cooking rice in big batches is like giving a…

I am not into menus, per se, but I am into themes. Not themes like, “wear a Hawaiian shirt, make rum punch, and watch Point Break” (although 10/10 would do), but more like “Red Sauce Night” or “Taco Tuesday.” The goal isn’t to turn your home into dinner theater, but to set gentle guidelines and get the ball rolling. Regardless of what dream you’re dreaming, apply the same sensibilities you would to any meal. For example, I love a lemony salad, a starchy side, and a big hunk of meat no matter what. Here that shows up in Steak House Night, but it could just as easily be “Grecian Vacation” or “Homemade Stouffer’s” (that’s a fun one). Picking a focus, even if you stray, is a good place to start.…

Galettes are a lifestyle. They’re casually impressive and photogenic, but in that “Oh, I just threw this together” way. They’re rustic and inviting; come as you are. They always turn out—even if you’re a rookie baker—and they’re easy enough that you can tack a homemade dessert onto a dinner party menu without regretting it later. Their imperfections are what set them apart—in fact, the less you do, the better they look. Because I’m a big believer in getting great at one thing instead of being okay at a lot of things, I’ve leaned into one master dough that requires minimal equipment and can pair with any seasonal fruit. After a little practice, baking an ultraflaky crust cradling a heap of jewel-toned fruit will become second nature. The person you’ll impress…

School of Fish Seafood can be scary. How do you know if it’s sustainable? Or just, like, cooked through? Never fear: We’ll show you how to buy it, prepare it, and—best of all—enjoy it. 1 BUY THE GOOD STUFF When it comes to fish, you’ll want to consider both the quality of the product and the quality of the sourcing. The very best way to ensure you’re buying sustainable seafood is to find a vendor who sources responsibly (localcatch.org can help). But even at the ol’ grocery store, you don’t have to shoot in the dark: Use the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch app or look for labels like Friend of the Sea or Marine Stewardship Council. And no matter what, seek out smooth, dense fillets; shiny, taut skin; and,…