Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Bon Appetit

Breaking Away HOW ABOUT WE START with the good part? My wife and I had just dropped off our son at sleepaway camp, up in Algonquin Park in Ontario. It was his first time away, and everyone told us how great it would be not just for him, but for us as well. It would be like we were dating again. Our only concerns being where to make dinner reservations and whether we wanted to sleep in or get up for that 8:30 a.m. yoga class. So we booked a trip to L.A. and a room at this neat little motel, the Native, right off the Pacific Coast Highway. It’s the kind of place where the tidy Scandi-by-Cali rooms are just enough. You walk up to the office for pour-your-own…

Why buy a whole bunch of basil for just one sprig? Here, two huge handfuls are wilted into charred shrimp for a sweet fragrance that offsets the spicy marinade 4 SERVINGS 3 Fresno chiles, coarsely chopped6 garlic cloves, smashed¼ cup sugar2 Tbsp. fish sauce1 tsp. kosher salt4 Tbsp. vegetable or grapeseed oil, divided1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined2 cups basil leaves (about 1 bunch) Cooked rice and lime wedges (for serving) 1. Blend chiles, garlic, sugar, fish sauce, salt, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a blender until smooth. Transfer marinade to a medium bowl; add shrimp and toss to coat. Let sit 10 minutes. 2. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Working in batches if needed to avoid crowding the pan, transfer shrimp to…

Thinly sliced tenderloin marinates in almost no time: After just ten minutes in the chili sauce, it’s packed with flavor all the way through 4 SERVINGS 1 1¼-lb. pork tenderloin3 Tbsp. sambal oelek2 Tbsp. light brown sugar1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated1 garlic clove, finely grated3 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided2¼ tsp. toasted sesame oil, divided3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided Kosher salt2 medium carrots, peeled, sliced1 bunch collard greens or Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves sliced1 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar Cooked rice, thinly sliced scallions, and gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste; for serving) 1. Freeze tenderloin until firm around the edges, 30–45 minutes, if time permits. 2. Combine sambal oelek, brown sugar, ginger, garlic, 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 2 tsp. sesame oil in a resealable plastic bag.…

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“I know that a difference can be made by doing small gestures rather than preaching,” Kamal Mouzawak says while sipping on a glass of arak, the anise-flavored spirit from the Levant. Though I would argue his gestures are not so small, they are certainly making a difference. Over the past 15 years, Mouzawak has built bed-and-breakfasts, restaurants, and Beirut’s first farmers’ market with one goal: to create places that unite and give voice to Lebanese people from different faiths and political backgrounds, especially women. At the farmers’ market, Souk el Tayeb, I met a woman named Mona al-Dorr selling her man’oushe, a puffed flatbread speckled with za’atar that she had made at home for years before finding an outlet at the souk. I saw Nada Saber, who was selling jars…

A FAST SALAD A big bowl of dressed crunchy leafy greens like Little Gem or torn romaine is a welcome addition to roast chicken or fish. NEW POTATOES Boil small waxy potatoes in a saucepan of wellsalted water until forktender, then season to taste while they’re still warm. CRUNCHY VEG Toss any thinly shaved snappy vegetable (fennel, radishes, cucumbers) with a handful of parsley, mint, or chives; dress just before serving.…

How’d you get started here? I didn’t want to come. It was a beautiful day in 1977. I wanted to go to the beach! But my cousin Mario needed help. After that I kept coming back—there’s never a slow night, except the Super Bowl and when the Yankees play in the World Series. Where did you work before? I started at Danny’s Hide-A-Way as a pot washer (the worst thing in the world) and worked my way up to second chef. Then Friars Club, Café La Fortuna, the Gaslight Café, Mamma Leone’s—they’re almost all closed now. How were things different back then? Everything was done in front of you. Pasta, desserts, whole fish—we’d fillet it at the table. My favorite was duck à la presse: You put a whole duck…

Forlini’s NYC “Since it’s so close to the courthouse, you’ll find judges, cops, and criminals at Forlini’s. Once when I was trying a big mob case, the defendant got seated next to me. I said, ‘You gotta put me somewhere else!‘ But the guy was a gentleman. He got up and moved.” —Former NY State Supreme Court judge Leslie Crocker Snyder V’s Italiano INDEPENDENCE, MO “My wife Laura and I got engaged at V’s in 1991 and I did a dumb thing. I was excited and couldn’t wait, so I reached under the table and held her hand and slipped the ring on her finger—at the beginning of the meal. She didn’t hardly eat! We had our rehearsal dinner at V’s four months later.” —Scott Maxey Pietro’s NYC “When you…

Madrid and Toledo’s most private doors open on an exclusive insider tour hosted by Architectural Digest with Indagare Revel in an off-hours visit to the Prado. Marvel at the Duke of Alba’s palace. Dine with AD100 superstars Michael S. Smith, Fernando Caruncho, Lorenzo Castillo, and Isabel López-Quesada, subject to availability. Yes, there’s much more, from private art collections to hidden gardens, but reservations are limited. AD Destinations: Travel by Design is a new way of seeing the world, through itineraries inspired by impeccable style and beautiful design. These journeys are created in partnership with Indagare, the travel planning company whose team of experts personally scout each trip and vet every detail. For the itinerary and to sign up, visit indagare.com/AD or call 646-780-8383.…

TRAVEL PLANNER AWAY pp. 35–56 AMERICAN SON Eaton DC, 1201 K St. NW, Washington, D.C.; eatonworkshop.com B&B DONUTS 515 Westheimer Rd., Houston; 713-520-7557 BATCH CRAFT BEER & KOLACHES 3220 Manor Rd., Austin; batchatx.com BREVA Hotel Figueroa, 939 S. Figueroa St., Ste. 300, Los Angeles; brevadtla.com BROTHERS AND SISTERS The Line, 1770 Euclid St. NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-588-0525; brothersandsistersdc.com THE CARPENTER HOTEL 400 Josephine St., Austin; 512-682-5300; carpenterhotel.com THE COOPER LOUNGE Crawford Hotel, 1701 Wynkoop St., Denver; cooperlounge.com COUVANT The Eliza Jane, 317 Magazine St., New Orleans; 504-324-5400; couvant.com CZECH STOP Interstate 35, Exit 353, West, TX; 254-826-5316; czechstop.net THE DEWBERRY 334 Meeting St., Charleston; 843-558-8000; thedewberrycharleston.com DORIS 1088 Fulton St., Brooklyn; 347-240-3350 FIONA 339 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles; 323-852-3210; fionabakeryla.com HENRY Life Hotel, 19 W. 31st St., NYC; 212-615-9910;…

MANY PEOPLE WILL tell you that all you need to throw a good party are fun friends, loud music, and some booze. But in my opinion, it’s not a truly good party unless there’s dip—at least three kinds. Dips can be as involved (sevenlayer) or uninvolved (open a package of hummus) as you want, but as with most things I prefer somewhere in the middle: something quick that can be made ahead. The key is to start with a base that is already undeniably delicious. Since I am a CDP (creamy dip person), this means sour cream, Greek yogurt, cream cheese, or ricotta (and a few tabs of Lactaid). Season your dairy product of choice with lots of salt, pepper, and something acidic like lemon juice or buttermilk until it’s…

The key to salmon fillets with crackly skin is to start them skin side down in a cold cast-iron pan—as the skillet heats, the skin slowly renders and crisps 4 SERVINGS 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated2 Tbsp. white miso1 Tbsp. honey1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar1 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 Tbsp. sesame seeds4 4–6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets Kosher salt3 scallions, thinly sliced Cooked rice (for serving) 1. Whisk ginger, miso, honey, vinegar, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to combine; set sauce aside. 2. Heat a dry small skillet over medium. Toast sesame seeds, tossing, until golden and slightly fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl; let cool. 3. Lightly season salmon all over with salt. Place skin side down in an unheated cast-iron skillet.…

For adobo that’s sweet, salty, tangy, garlicky, and ready in a fraction of the time, don’t peel and slice each garlic clove: Just cut open a whole head and simmer it in the sauce 4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs4 chicken drumsticks1 head of garlic, halved crosswise5 dried bay leaves¾ cup distilled white vinegar¾ cup soy sauce1 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar2 green chiles (such as serrano or jalapeño), thinly sliced, seeds removed if desired, divided Freshly ground black pepper Cooked rice (for serving) 1. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Cook chicken, thighs skin side down, lifting pieces with tongs once or twice toward the end to let fat flow underneath and turning drumsticks as needed to brown both sides, until…

No. 1 AT BON APPÉTIT, WE TRAVEL FOR FOOD. Ask any editor where she’s dining and drinking on her next trip, and you will get an earful of all the restaurants, bars, bakeries, and CBD-latte-doling coffee shops on the itinerary. Not so much about where she’s staying. But when we’ve been catching up after these caloric vacations, I’ve noticed something strange: People will not shut up about what they ate at their hotel. From the Eliza Jane’s Couvant in New Orleans with its briny oysters (below) to American Son inside the Eaton DC with its kinda-healthy cocktails (another round of the ginger-carrot one!), we cannot get enough of hotel restaurants. They’re not just a corporate hotel amenity anymore, as generic and familiar as a complimentary bathrobe (you know, the kind…

Features Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN on Being the Host with the Most, um, Coasters? Funny story: I thought the coasters at Brooklyn bar Doris were so warm and welcoming I decided to buy…800 of them. It was the smallest quantity I could find, and at $26 (webstaurantstore.com), the price was right. Then my husband, who knew about my affection for them but not my purchase, surprised me with…800 more. Now when friends compliment them—which happens all the time!—I literally send them home with a stack. Associate Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY Let me start off by saying I don’t really like pie. I do, however, love a crackly-topped brownie, and I can only assume pastry chef Nicole Rucker is also a fan after inhaling a slice of her decadent chocolate chess pie at…

In Taipei you can eat out-of-this-world soup dumplings with skin so thin it’s almost translucent, like you’d find in Shanghai. Mouth-numbing noodles with crunchy chili oil, like in Sichuan. The crispiest Peking duck with shattering skin just as good as in Beijing. But the capital of Taiwan, a small autonomous nation in the shadow of China, also has a cuisine all its own. Steaming bowls of beef noodle soup with meat so tender it’ll melt in your mouth. Finely shaved ice dotted with chewy tapioca balls and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk. It’s one of the reasons I return regularly to the city I was born in. My brother, parents, and I emigrated from Taipei to north Texas in 1990, trading our language and the city’s colorful alleys for strip malls…

Okay, we admit it. We’re trend chasers. Hypebeasts. Always hustling after the hottest new restaurants and crowing about the up-and-coming-est chefs. But here’s a little secret: Sometimes, late on a Friday, off the clock after a long week of hyping, all we want is to hunker down in a place where the decor hasn’t changed since 1973. A place where we couldn’t namedrop the chef if we tried, but our favorite waiter knows exactly how much extra parm we like heaped atop our plate-size chicken parm. A place where even two canines of differing social classes might romantically share a single strand of spaghetti (yes, that was a “Lady and the Tramp” reference). And you know what’s kind of awesome? We can find this place, with very few deviations, in…

How many ways can you possibly cook a pounded-thin chicken breast? Well, as any self-respecting red sauce menu will tell you, the answer is…a lot. The chicken cutlet is the stem cell of the kitchen: the stuff of life itself, a base protein that can, depending on how you cook it and sauce it, morph into a seemingly boundless array of codified, canonical Italian-American dishes. Marsala. Milanese. Francese. But what does it all mean? What distinguishes chicken Parmigiana from piccata? With the help of the fine folks at Detroit’s iconic Amore da Roma, we break it down. 1. Marsala Lightly floured, sautéed, and served in a rich, silky pan sauce composed of butter, onions, caramelized mushrooms, and plenty of Marsala, the sherry-esque fortified wine from coastal Sicily. 2. Parmigiana Crunchy…

I GREW UP IN red sauce heaven: a largely Italian-American neighborhood in Brooklyn. Meatballs, ziti, calzones, and parms of every variety were staples of my young diet. Then, as happens, I started to get ideas. First there was a new restaurant my family referred to simply as the “Northern Italian place”; it offered strange dishes like risotto and veal Milanese that were decidedly not red. (My concept of sophistication in those days was entirely color-based.) Then came the dining revolution that put all the diverse regional cuisines of Italy front and center in America’s restaurant culture. This, I thought, was real Italian: gnudi and malfatti and herb-roasted branzino. I had left childish things behind. But as they say, “Just when I thought I was out….” Eight years ago I moved…

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The 101 BUYING Pick thin, firm stalks—these are likely to be sweeter and less stringy than thicker ones. (Redder stalks aren’t always sweeter, but they make for prettier presentations.) STORING Keep unwashed rhubarb in an unsealed plastic bag in the crisper for up to a week. If you have a large haul, wash stalks, slice, and then freeze for future pies and crumbles. News Flash: It’s a Vegetable (Kind Of) It’s often treated like a fruit in desserts, but rhubarb is technically a member of the buckwheat family. It was declared a fruit by the U.S. Customs Court in Buffalo, NY, in 1947 to reflect how Americans were using it. WHY YES, YOU CAN PICKLE THAT Slice 2 rhubarb stalks on a diagonal and pack into a heatproof 1-pint jar.…

To keep the vegetables peppy and bright, sauté them separately from the meat, then return them to the pan so they get their fair share of the gingery sauce 4 SERVINGS 1 lb. sirloin steak1 Tbsp. cornstarch2 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1" pieces8 oz. sugar snap peas, trimmed, strings removed1 2" piece ginger, scrubbed, very thinly sliced crosswise6 scallions, thinly sliced, divided¼ cup oyster sauce3 Tbsp. mirin (Japanese rice wine)2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar Kosher salt Cooked rice (for serving) 1. Pat steak dry with paper towels. Slice meat crosswise as thinly as possible and place in a medium bowl. Add cornstarch, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 1 Tbsp. oil and toss with tongs to coat meat. 2. Toss asparagus, sugar…

I STEPPED OUT of the cab and into a pile of slush, looking around the freezing-quiet block as the polar vortex settled in. I felt very alone: the only person on the street (Diversey Avenue) in an unfamiliar neighborhood (Logan Square) in a city (Chicago) far from home, looking for a wine shop I’d never visited, full of people I’d never met. Just as the gutter ice began melting into my boots, my eyes caught a glow in the window of my destination: Diversey Wine. As soon as I opened the door, my L.A. bones were restored. I was at home. This might all sound hyperbolic—perhaps the high of a good heater or the half dozen tastes of the Australian Lucy Margaux wines talking. But it’s not, and to understand…

The Bohemian Phase Restaurants in major U.S. cities once fit into two categories: fancy French on the high-end and dreary workingmen’s hash houses on the low. Then came the 1880s, and with them a massive influx of Southern Italian immigrants. Exotic yet accessible, the restaurants they opened appealed to “Bohemians,” the hipsters of that era. Red-and-white-checked tablecloths gave a soigné-but-informal vibe, as did candles in straw-wrapped Chianti bottles (standard in Italy to prevent the bottles from breaking, perceived as picturesque in the States). From Sodini’s Green Valley in San Francisco to Dante & Luigi’s in Philly, chefs developed dishes that were unknown in the old country. The higher American standard of living meant more meat, so meatballs were paired with spaghetti. Parmesan, formerly a special treat, was now lavished upon…

MY HUSBAND refuses to go to Little Italy with me because we always end up eating at the first restaurant featuring an adorable old man outside with a thick accent, a mouthful of flattery, and a promise of Chianti. Yes, I’m a sucker, and I don’t care. Chianti begs to be poured from straw-woven fiasco bottles in the company of oversize Sophia Loren portraits. The glasses are always too small or too big but somehow just right. Simply the color of “red wine,” Chianti often smells and tastes just as nondescript (despite the multitudes its patron-saint grape Sangiovese possesses). Sure, it has the potential to be earthy and romantic, its flavors of cherry and plum ringing with acidity like the strings of a mandolin. Or it can just be table…