Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Bon Appetit

OKAY, SO I REALIZE THIS MAY NOT BE the most obvious opening line for an essay in a food magazine, but do you remember where you were when Lorenzo Charles grabbed a last-second air ball and dunked it, lifting one-in-a-million underdog NC State over Hakeem Olajuwon, Clyde Drexler, and the University of Houston in the NCAA men’s basketball championship game? I do. Spring break. 1983. I was sitting on one of those cheap fire-retardant sofas in a condo in Park City, Utah. By myself. I was 13 years old. And I’m pretty sure I had never been as happy as at that moment. Earlier in the evening, my parents announced that they would be going out to dinner and, if I wanted to, I could hang back and order takeout.…

OF ALL THE THINGS I EXPECTED to happen in the realm of food once I had kids—a sharp uptick in Cheerios, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, chicken tenders, and macaroni and cheese—broccoli was nowhere on that list. I ate it growing up (defrosted, steamed) but not with any enthusiasm. When I began cooking on my own, I was far too interested in leafy greens, broccoli rabe, and cauliflower for ho-hum broccoli trees to ever take center stage in my kitchen. This changed when I got pregnant with my first child and my craving for iron-rich green vegetables—and especially broccoli—was constant. An attempt to re-create a cousin’s broccoli slaw—thinly sliced raw florets tossed with almonds, dried cranberries, and a shallot buttermilk ranch—led to my eating the entire giant bowl standing in…

2 SERVINGS 1 1-lb. bone-in pork loin chop (1"–1½" thick) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper3 tsp. honey, divided5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided3 Tbsp. skin-on hazelnuts, crushed1 medium shallot, finely chopped1 lemon, halved1 small Pink Lady apple1 large or 2 small endive, leaves separated1 oz. Parmesan, shaved, broken into small pieces 1. Pat pork chop dry with paper towels; season generously with salt and pepper. Let sit at room temperature 1 hour. 2. Heat a medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. Drizzle ½ tsp. honey over 1 side of pork chop, then drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil. Rub all over; repeat on the other side. Cook until deeply browned, about 3 minutes per side. Turn upright onto fat cap and hold with tongs; cook until browned, about 2 minutes.…

2 SERVINGS 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more1 large sweet potato (about 1 lb.), halved lengthwise½ medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced; plus fronds for serving (optional)½ small red onion, thinly sliced¼ cup apple cider, coconut, or unseasoned rice vinegar3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided8 oz. ground lamb1½ tsp. garam masala1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper, plus more for serving8 oz. wild mushrooms (such as oyster or shiitake), sliced ¼" thick½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1. Fill a large saucepan with about 1" water; season with a big pinch of salt. Set a steamer basket in pot. Cover pot and bring water to a boil. Add sweet potato, cover, and steam until fork-tender, 20–25 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, toss sliced fennel, onion, vinegar, and ¼ tsp. salt in a…

The Butter Chef-owners Akira Akuto and Nick Montgomery tried “a crazy amount” of butter before finding the One. The winner was Anchor’s butter sheets (made specifically for layered pastries like these) from New Zealand. Buying the butter already formed into long, thin sheets makes for a more consistent texture. The Flour The Konbi team ate the croissant at Tokyo’s Path restaurant every day on a research trip. So they tapped Rihito Maruhashi, Path’s pastry chef, to help develop their own recipe. His steepest learning curve? American flour. They chose King Arthur’s Sir Galahad, a low-protein bread flour similar to what Maruhashi used in Japan. The Lamination Those layers take work. In a process known as lamination, first the dough gets folded over butter, then it’s flattened into slabs by a…

After seven years at Bon Appétit, most of them spent in our test kitchen, I knew my way around a recipe. But it wasn’t until I wrote my first cookbook, Where Cooking Begins, that I realized exactly what kind of a cook I’d become. First, I rarely use recipes at home, which is just one admission in a series of personal contradictions. I shop the farmers’ market and am loyal to my nose-to-tail butcher, but I also love buying groceries online. I’m a mother of two, but I’m anti big-batch cooking and have never made a weekly meal plan in my life. I’ll happily spend an entire day prepping for a party, but I’m too lazy to go to the corner store if I’m missing a spice. And even though…

STEP-BY-STEPS TIPS & TRICKS PICK A STORE AND BECOME A REGULAR The world of wine is huge, so it’s easy to feel like a small fish in a giant pond. The easiest way in? Find a smaller pond. Pick one shop (focused on wine, preferably from small and independent producers) and make yourself a regular. Not only will this help you get to know the selection, it will make talking to the staff feel like a conversation, not a geography lesson. 2 Branch Out When we’re not at our home-base wine store, these are some of the reliable, less-obvious types we ask for. Austrian Wines Affordable, tasty, and fun to say. Red-wise, Zweigelt tends to be on the easy-drinking side, while Blaufränkisch leans darker. In the white corner, Grüner Veltliner…

Dish of the Day Stylish casserole: Sounds like an oxymoron, right? But between new color palettes from Le Creuset and surprising modern designs from small-batch ceramists, the most retro of servingware is looking very fresh.…

The 101 BUYING Choose cans with the fewest ingredients: We prefer tomatoes packed with salt, but avoid sugar, garlic, or any preservatives other than calcium chloride and citric acid. STORING For best flavor, use within 18 months. Once a can is open, transfer any leftover contents to a glass or plastic container to avoid a metallic taste and refrigerate for up to one week. With a can of tomatoes, you’re on your way to… SLOW-ROAST FOR THE MOST Drain two 28-oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes. Gently crush and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet where they’ll fit snugly. Season with salt, drizzle with ¼ cup olive oil, and roast at 250°, tossing twice, 2–2½ hours. Coarsely chop, then mix with cooked grains and Parm, fold into scrambled eggs, or toss…

4 SERVINGS Kosher salt2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling1 medium onion, finely chopped4 garlic cloves, smashed1 4.5-oz. tube double-concentrated tomato paste½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes2 oz. vodka¾ cup heavy cream1 lb. rigatoni4 oz. Parmesan, finely grated Basil leaves (for serving) 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. 2. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook onion and garlic, stirring constantly, just until onion is starting to brown around the edges, 5–7 minutes. Add tomato paste and red pepper flakes and stir to coat onion. Cook, stirring often, until paste is deep red and starting to brown and stick to the bottom of pot, 5–7 minutes. Add vodka, scraping up brown bits; reduce…

4 SERVINGS ¼ bunch cilantro, plus leaves with tender stems for serving4 scallions2 Tbsp. sugar1 6" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs1 Fresno chile, halved, seeds removed Kosher salt2 Tbsp. soy sauceFreshly ground black pepper 1. Tie cilantro bunch into a bundle with kitchen twine. Remove dark green tops from scallions and thinly slice on a steep diagonal; set aside for serving. Set intact scallions aside separately. 2. Cook sugar and 3 Tbsp. water in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, swirling pan occasionally (do not stir), until golden amber in color, about 5 minutes. Add ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened slightly, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and reserved…

IN CHARLESTON, you know instantly when you’ve stepped into a restaurant by Brooks Reitz, Tim Mink, and chef John Amato—even though each is completely different from the last. Whether they’ve retrofitted an auto body shop into an oyster oasis (Leon’s) or converted an old café space into a timeless tavern named after a racehorse (Little Jack’s), the magic is in the details: hidden knickknacks, gallery wall pastiche, rehabbed furnishings, and cheeky art meticulously gathered from travels around the globe. These are the kind of guys who save old receipts for wall decor and buy an antique bar for a defunct pharmacy on a hunch, years before turning it into a restaurant. They care. At Melfi’s, the pizza and pasta haven that now occupies said pharmacy, the trio doubles down on…

PARTIES ARE A time to embrace the absurd, and if there is anything more absurd than filling your bathtub with an ungodly amount of ice and using it to store all your drinks for the evening, I don’t want to know about it. This is something I do mostly out of necessity (though the photo op ain’t bad either). See, the refrigerator in my Brooklyn apartment has the capacity for about seven items at a time, making it impossible to store an evening’s worth of wine and beer. Even if you’re the owner of a regularsize fridge, chances are it’s already stuffed with snacks for your party or things for your regular life (by which I mean condiments—your fridge is full of condiments). So I do what any person serious…

Each of the recipes in this section: Takes under 45 minutes Has 10 ingredients or fewer (not including salt, pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil) Requires no special gadgets or appliances Our March motto: Love the one you’re with. Instead of dreaming of corn and tomatoes, we’re turning winter mainstays and faithful pantry staples into warming yet invigorating meals—gingery chicken soup, honey-glazed pork chops, loaded sweet potatoes—that will power us through the rest of the season. Spring who?…

4 SERVINGS 1½ lb. brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper¼ cup honey⅓ cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)3 Tbsp. unsalted butter3 scallions, thinly sliced on a diagonal1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1. Place a rack in bottom third of oven and set a rimmed baking sheet on top; preheat oven to 450°. Toss brussels sprouts and oil in a large bowl; season with salt and black pepper. 2. Carefully remove baking sheet from oven. Using tongs, arrange brussels sprouts, cut side down, on baking sheet. Roast on bottom rack until tender and deeply browned, 20–25 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, bring honey to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce…

I COULDN’T REALLY CALL MYSELF a Hong Kong resident until I knew Central like the back of my hand. The harborfront neighborhood, once a key location for the British when they arrived in the 1840s, bridges old-world and new-wave Hong Kong. But after being handed back to China by the Brits 22 years ago, Central is still, well, central. It’s the pulsating heart of this mile-a-minute metropolis. There are trailblazing neon-hued restaurants pushing the boundaries of Cantonese cuisine alongside iconic noodle shops and barbecue joints going strong after decades in the business. So whether you’re a tourist passing by or those who know the district like the back of their hand, Central’s still got it. OLD-SCHOOL Shui Kee Dai pai dong, or street food stalls, used to be all over…

I USED TO WORK SEVEN-DAY WEEKS, 14-hour days. I’d get home at 1 a.m. after pulling a dinner shift, then wake up three hours later for a private breakfast party. It was exhausting, but you know what? If I had to do it all again, I wouldn’t change anything. I lived like a rock star. Working in restaurants makes you understand what a human is capable of. IN 2017 I GOT DIAGNOSED WITH A RARE FORM OF CANCER called Ewing sarcoma. I had just filmed Top Chef, and I had this weird ache in my shoulder that I’d been ignoring. Then one day, it swelled up huge. Pain was mounting by the minute. I remember the doctor at the hospital was exceptionally handsome. I’m standing there crying my eyes out…

GOCHUJANG This fermented red pepper paste is spicy, sweet, and a bit funky. Try adding a spoonful to fried rice, stir-fries, and marinades—a little goes a long way here. KOMBU This thick dried seaweed has a mild oceanic flavor and is an essential base ingredient in many Korean soups and stews. It’s sometimes labeled “dashima” or “kelp.” RICE VINEGAR This mild-flavored vinegar adds a punchy note to vinaigrettes and sauces. Choose bottles labeled “unseasoned” to avoid sweeteners and additives that mask its natural flavor. SHILGOCHU These delicate red chile threads get their name from the Korean words for thread (shil) and chili pepper (gochu). Use a pinch to garnish meat dishes or noodle soups. GOCHUGARU You can’t make kimchi without these crushed red pepper flakes, which are one of the…

Behind all the beautiful food at Cellar Door, you’ll find (opposite, from left) servers Maeve Coughlin and Breanne Johnson, line cook Bryant Nishida, shift lead Jennifer Sher, line cook Dylan Heath, and co-owners Emily Sher, Ethan Pikas, and Tony Bezsylko. The Quiche THE CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS quiche has the texture of just barely set custard, its crust made up of a million tiny unknowable layers of butter and flour. It is the only thing on the menu that does not change. And if you ask Gabe Moya, the chef de cuisine of this unusual little corner café in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, what he thinks about it, oh, he’ll tell you. First of all, despite the fact that he grew up in Puerto Rico, Moya is “not a custard person,”…

Turmeric Curry Basmati Rice with Mackerel 4 Servings Ingredients: 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided2 cups fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, tarragon, cilantro Kosher salt, black pepper¼ cup sunflower seeds2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced1 teaspoon curry powder1 teaspoon turmeric powder2 cups basmati rice, rinsed and drained1 tablespoon lemon juice4 6-oz boneless, skin-on mackerel fillet Directions: Preheat the boiler on high. Heat 3 tbs oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Fry herbs 4 minutes. Toast sunflower seeds,1 minute; remove. Season with salt and pepper. Add garlic, cook 3 minutes. Add curry and turmeric powder, rice, lemon juice, and 2 cups water, cover and simmer 9 to 11 minutes. Season mackerel with salt and pepper and 1 tbsp oil. Broil mackerel 10 to 12 minutes. Turn the rice onto a platter…

ACTRESS ELISABETH MOSS takes on emotionally draining projects. There’s the dystopian drama The Handmaid’s Tale, the new horror-thriller Us, and Her Smell, where she plays a drug-addicted rock star. After long days on set, Moss craves comfort—like cacioe pepe. “It’s a simple dish, but it’s hard to make well—not too cheesy and not too spicy,” she says. Her ideal is at Via Carota in NYC, which is “hands down the best—I keep trying other places, and nobody makes it as good as they do.” Not all that research is a bad thing: When you have to cry on command as much as Moss, you’re bound to eat many bowls of pasta. THE VITALS Hometown Los Angeles But switched coasts to live in New York City Can’t resist Banana bread Always…