Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Bon Appetit

EVERYTHING I KNOW about drinking wine, I learned from Zumba. Both involve strange choreography we pretend to have mastered. But if I took away anything from my first (and last) Zumba class, it’s that nothing is more stressful than faking it. You end up flailing around like a fool in front of a roomful of strangers. When a sommelier brings a bottle to the table, it can trigger that same panic. But wine isn’t about nailing the moves; it’s about having a good time. So put down the cork you’re about to sniff ( ). Quit looking for legs ( ), and don’t even try to trill ( ). If you want to swirl ( ) and sniff because this enhances your experience, by all means, carry on. But if…

1 of 2 the PRO KATY MILLARD Coquine / Portland, OR Yes, flowers make everything prettier, but a handful of purple pansies is a oneway ticket to 1993. Less is more with today’s edible flowers, which tend to be locally sourced and decidedly delicate (like Millard’s tiny elderflowers). Shop farmers’ markets or Whole Foods for flowers labeled edible. 2 of 2 the PRO MEGAN FITZROY PHELAN Longoven / Richmond, VA Creamy base + crunchy sprinkle = magic. Fitzroy Phelan puffs her own grains, then scatters them over silky chocolate sorbet. At home, use an oversize bowl and an off-center scoop of sorbet or ice cream, then sprinkle away (see right for a list of crunchy toppers). THE CRUNCH FACTOR CEREAL Rice Krispies, Corn Flakes, or Kix (yes, straight from the…

STEP NO. 1 Clean Like a Machine Keeping things spatter-free makes your oven more efficient. In conventional ovens, heat is reflected by the shiny surfaces of the oven walls; when food cakes onto those walls and burns, it creates spots that heat can’t bounce off, which leads to uneven cooking. No one wants that. The easiest way (though not the most eco-friendly) to get a spotless oven is by using the self-cleaning cycle. Three hours later you’ll have a sparkling oven—and a warm house. Alternatively, heat oven to 125°, liberally spray all surfaces with Member’s Mark Commercial Oven, Grill & Fryer Cleaner (available at most big-box stores), close the oven door, and wait 30 minutes. Wipe clean. STEP NO. 2 Take the Temperature Making sure that your oven is really…

Hot Ten America’s Best New Restaurants 2016 by Andrew Knowlton & Julia Kramer Ryan Smith is not happy with the flatiron steak that just landed in front of him. It’s grilled to an on-the-nose medium-rare, but a thin streak of gristle runs through the middle of each fanned-out slice. Most chefs would let it slide, but not Smith. He tells a cook to do another one “on the fly,” kitchen-speak for “drop whatever the f*#% you’re doing and make it again!” Smith, a burly 36-year-old who could pass for Seth Rogen’s lost twin, may look like a laid-back guy. But not right now. His intense focus at this moment gives that steak exactly no chance of leaving the kitchen. Too many people have sacrificed too much opening Staplehouse for things…

The two things I’m about to say aren’t food-writer hyperbole: ( 1 ) Justin Severino is the most underrated chef in America. (2) His new restaurant serves the best Spanish food I’ve had outside San Sebastián. I realize all this halfway through my meal at Morcilla, his love letter to the pintxos-eating, cider-drinking, fiercely independent Basque region of northern Spain. In front of me is a refreshing gin and tonic poured with house-made tonic and garnished with juniper berries and citrus, a foamy glass of Trabanco cider (yes, that’s a second drink, but it was dispensed from a two-foot-tall custom tap shaped like an arm!), and an army of small plates that I can’t keep my hands from. I started with the cured meats because Severino is a charcuterie god.…

You can smell great barbecue long before you walk through the door. Outside Buxton Hall Barbecue, it’s no different: The air hangs with the faintly smoky aroma of crispy pork. It only intensifies as you enter the brick-walled space, past T-shirts for sale (my favorite: SMOKED WHILE YOU SLEEP). In the open kitchen, pitmaster Elliott Moss stands over a whole pig, picking and chopping hunks of smoked meat. This is hog heaven. We’re in the midst of a barbecue boom. Old-school joints are getting their due, and new-school smokehouses like Buxton Hall are proudly carrying on the tradition while shaking things up. Here barbecue means local pasture-raised pig (not the usual commodity stuff) smoked 18 hours over oak, cherry, and hickory. The pork is juicy and sweet and melts in…

During this month’s New York Fashion Week, frenzied industry insiders try to see as many of the 150 shows as possible. Some show-goers simplify their lives by wearing all black; Jenna Lyons, president and creative director of J. Crew, has a different strategy: a “lunch uniform.” Lyons changes up her daily look but eats the same meal, which arrives every day at noon. “It’s one less thing to decide. I know it sounds so boring, but it’s one place in my life where predictability is actually really nice.” She spent two years eating the Cobb salad from Time Café until it closed, then switched to two orders of ‘Wichcraft’s tomato soup for a year and a half. These days she’s back on Cobb salad, but from Westville, where they don’t…

1 Good Point Burn these jet-black lavender-scented cones on the metal lid of their sleek canister. Ibza incense, $30 for 20 cones; blackbirdballard.com 2 Knock on Wood The warm and woodsy aroma of palo santo makes it a good gateway scent for newbies. Palo santo bundle, $12 for five sticks; shopwoodlot.com 3 Brick by Brick Burn a piece of a block, made from myrrh resin and palo santo, in a heatproof dish. Espíritus del Ande myrrh incense, $20 for six; thesedaysla.com 4 Long and Lean Notes of clove, sandalwood, and jasmine linger while these slender sticks smolder. Apotheke incense sticks, $28 for 25; alderandcoshop.com 5 The Giving Tree Proceeds from the cinnamon-y sticks benefit indigenous peoples in Peru and Brazil. Chacrona and jagube incense, $23 for nine; incausa.ecwid.com 6 Bundle…

LETURTLE NYC “In every futuristic movie— 2001: A Space Odyssey, Buck Rogers, Logan’s Run— everyone wore jumpsuits. If we want to be a modern, contemporary place, we should have jumpsuits too.” —Restaurateur Taavo Somer, who partnered with 1.61’s Kimberly Wesson and Aimee Cho for these unisex designs CAFÉ ALTRO PARADISO NYC It all started at a flea market in Paris. Co-owner Thomas Carter picked up a muted utility jacket and started wearing it with everything. When it came time to outfit his staff at his new Italian spot, he wanted them to sport something similar. So Carter took the jacket to Eunice Lee of menswear brand UNIS to replicate the look, which is neither formal nor fussy, just well suited to the demands of the job. ELIZABETH STREET CAFÉ AUSTIN…

Find out how salt can transform limes on page 78. True fact: Wars (plural) have been fought over salt. Surprising? Not to us. But if it is to you, then you probably don’t grasp the power and potential of the stuff—and these next few pages are for you. Without salt, the first transatlantic sailors would’ve starved to death. (Salt pork, anyone?) Without salt, the human body would not be able to function. And, most significant: Without salt, food just doesn’t taste as good. It’s the missing link, the one ingredient that 99.9 percent of our recipes (sweet and savory) have in common. Knowing how to use it properly is the fundamental difference between a meh cook and an excellent one. —Amiel Stanek 1 Know Your Salt Most types of salt…

FOR MORE OTTOLENGHI, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/OTTOLENGHI (AND BUY HIS AMAZING NOPI COOKBOOK) . “It’s not Ottolenghi enough,” my longtime colleague Cornelia said, popping into the test kitchen to see what was cooking. “It needs something more; something exotic.” The dish in question was simple— a fillet of cod baked in a chile-tomato sauce—but it was one that I absolutely love. Not Ottolenghi enough? But I am Ottolenghi! While I don’t tend to think of myself in the third person, the comment got me thinking. I love big-flavored ingredients, and recipes bearing my name do bring a certain shopping list to mind. But am I not being “Ottolenghi enough” when I fall for a recipe devoid of rasel-hanout, yuzu, date syrup, freekeh, or za’atar? Do all my recipes need a twist,…

Yellow Chicken Adobo 4 SERVINGS Though widely accepted as the national dish of the Philippines, no two adobos are the same. This one calls for an unapologetic amount of turmeric, which has a somewhat bitter, definitely earthy flavor, and those deep, dark notes are backed up by charred coconut. 10 dried bay leaves 2 Tbsp. black peppercorns 2 Tbsp. ground turmeric ¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut ½ head of cauliflower, broken into small florets ¼ kabocha squash, cut into 1" pieces (about 2 cups) 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 small white onion, chopped 2 medium shallots, chopped 6 large garlic cloves, chopped 1 3" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 13.5-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk 1 cup sugarcane vinegar…

Crispy Gnocchi with Littleneck Clams 4 SERVINGS Don’t be tempted to disturb the gnocchi when browning—the handsoff approach is key to letting them develop a deep brown color on one side. 2 ½ lb. russet potatoes (about 4 large), scrubbed 2 lb. littleneck clams, scrubbed ¾ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 large egg, beaten to blend ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 2 Tbsp. olive oil 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A potato ricer Preheat to 425°. Prick potatoes all over with a fork and place directly on oven rack; roast until flesh is very soft when squeezed gently and…

1 IS THERE ANYTHING YOU CAN’T MILK? The coffee world presents a tyranny of choices: latte or flat white? Ethiopian or Colombian? And it just got more vexing. Shops are showing up soy and almond milks with, let’s say, nuttier milk alternatives: pistachio and hazelnut at D.C.’s Pineapple and Pearls, cashew at Corvus Coffee Roasters in Denver, oat at Baker Miller in Chicago, and macadamia at L.A.’s Go Get Em Tiger. 2 of 11 2 The Bar of the Future Wood-paneled geometric interiors from New York design firm Home Studios—like this stunner, Sisters in Brooklyn—are redefining bar and restaurant design. A few of Home’s signature details coming soon to a spot near you: Do the Math Home relies on symmetry and mathematical angles. “We’re fans of the 45-degree angle,” says design director…

GENERATIONS OF RESTAURANT MEALS have ended the same way: A forefinger-to-thumb air signature, a silently mouthed “Check, please!” and rusty grade-school mental math to tabulate a tip. But you might have noticed that the routine is changing. More restaurants than ever are eliminating the tip line and replacing it with a gratuityincluded format. We take a closer look. Why now? 1 Minimum wage hikes in some states. Due to mandated minimum wage increases, restaurants that were already operating on razorthin margins now must pay servers and cooks more, an increase that some simply can’t sustain. In the case of servers, that means paying a higher base rate* plus gratuities. Going tip-included helps restaurateurs better manage rising labor costs. *The base rate varies—in some states it’s well below minimum wage, with…

To make chef Susan Regis’s Salami and Pickle Grilled Cheese sandwich, scatter . cup grated Gruyere, Swiss cheese, or sharp cheddar over a slice of sourdough bread. Top with 1 large dill pickle, sliced crosswise ." thick (or as many pickle chips as you want), 6 thin slices of salami (such as Genoa), and another . cup grated cheese. Close sandwich with another slice of sourdough bread and spread top with room-temperature unsalted butter. Heat a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-low. Place sandwich, buttered side down, in skillet. Spread top of bread with butter. Cook, pressing down on sandwich with a spatula to help cheese melt, until cheese is melted and bread is golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Cut in half. THE CHEF SAYS:…

Tomato soup is one of those things I never made before I had children. The first time my older son tasted it was at school. And apparently they do a good job over there because he got home and asked me if I knew how to make it. Of course I can make tomato soup! Do you even know who I am?! Actually, I had no clue. After asking him a series of unanswerable questions about the soup’s ingredients, I decided to wing it. I started out with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 5 or 6 sliced shallots (I was out of onions), along with a sliced fennel bulb. I seasoned with a healthy grab of salt and let that business soften up in a soup pot over medium-low heat,…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 166. For 800 years, the best place to be hungry in Paris was Les Halles. The neighborhood took its name from the city’s main food market; those halls in the belly of the 1st arrondissement fed the city and were the hub of a district dense with restaurants and purveyors. In 1969, the market moved to suburban Rungis, replaced by an ugly mall and train station. But this fall, following a $1 billion makeover that capped the shopping center with a lemon-hued glass roof (La Canopée), the area has risen as Paris’s ascendant dining neighborhood. Terrific spots have opened, helmed by icons like Alain Ducasse and new stars who deemed the once-shabby district the next place to…

The World According to Baroo One of the few material items Buddhist monks are allowed to possess is a baroo, the bowl they use for their meals. (The monks often clean the bowls with a scrubby that is actually a piece of kimchi, to create as little waste as possible.) Uh chose the name to reflect the Buddhist tenets he’s been studying since he was a teenager—”not so much as a religious practice but as a lifestyle,” he says. Buddhist philosophy is par t of Uh’s life not just through his daily meditation; it also informs his cooking. “Buddhism gives me a lot of inspiration in terms of balance, harmony, and relativity of form,” the chef says. Basmati rice Short-grain rice is typical in Uh’s home country of Korea, but…

FROM P. 118 IMPERFECTLY PERFECT You don’t need a mandoline to pull off the rough julienne that’s key to Bad Saint’s crispy ukoy fritters. Here’s how we do it. —CHRIS MOROCCO 1. Cut a small slice off the side of vegetable if needed to form a stable base, then rest the veg on the cut side. 2. Starting at the fattest end, slice on a bias into 3"-long pieces— keeping all the slices lined up. 3. Fan out the slices into a single, long overlapping row. Starting at one end, begin to slice down the row into thin matchsticks. FROM P. 140 INTO IT: OPINEL STEAK KNIVES Hot 10 winner Wildair in NYC dresses its tables with a rainbow of Opinel’s Bon Appétit Table Knives (no relation!), and we’re following.…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp._18–22 NINEBARK 813 Main St., Napa, CA; 707-226-7821; ninebark-napa.com TROIS FAMILIA 3510 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-725-7800; troisfamilia.com WILLA JEAN 611 O’Keefe Ave., New Orleans; 504-509-7334; willajean.com THE TIPPING POINT p._52 ALIMENTO 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-928-2888; alimentola.com BAR AGRICOLE 355 11th St., San Francisco; 415-355-9400; baragricole.co BIWA 215 SE Ninth Ave., Portland, OR; 503-239-8830; biwarestaurant.com CHEFSTABLE 819 SE Grant St., Portland, OR; 503-222-0600; chefstablegroup.com FEDORA 239 W. Fourth St., NYC; 646-449-9336; fedoranyc.com MAIALINO Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 Lexington Ave., NYC; 212-777-2410; maialinonyc.com MARTA The Redbury Hotel, 29 E. 29th St., NYC; 212-651-3800; martamanhattan.com THE MODERN The Museum of Modern Art, 9 W. 53rd St., NYC; 212-333-1220; themodernnyc.com NORTH END GRILL 104 North End Ave., NYC; 646-747-1600; northendgrillnyc.com DESSERT LIKE A PRO pp._54–56 COQUINE 6839…