Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2017 i Bon Appetit

“The second your guests arrive, serve them something. I ‘cocktail the wait,’ which means if the food’s not ready, everybody gets a drink.” —JOHN GORHAM, Tasty n Sons, Portland, OR “Presenting food on platters encourages guests to help themselves. Plus, it’s easier for everyone to mingle, and it relieves some stress from the host.” —AUTUMN WILLIAMS, Pinewood Social, Nashville “Do some prep work and poach your eggs ahead of time. It’s so easy to cook a batch, then drop them in simmering water to rewarm.” —BILLY ALLIN, Bread & Butterfly, Atlanta “Serve customizable dishes, like toast and grain bowls, with a few sauces or toppings so everyone gets what they want.” —JEFF GOODMAN, Superba Food + Bread, L.A.…

Tang is having a moment. Not the orange drink from the ’60s, but the funky flavor that defines fermented foods like kefir, kimchi—and now hot sauce. Chef Dan Kluger of New York’s Loring Place is one of many chefs who likes to imbue his hot sauce with a whisper of funk. “What makes fermentation so compelling is that it gives hot sauce this complex, well-rounded flavor,” he says. “And it’s quite easy to do.” (His version sits out for just a few days.) Kluger uses red cayenne chiles in Loring Place’s version, which he tosses with spaghetti as a sort of pasta sauce and adds to tomato sauce for baked eggs. The hot sauce’s ingredient list is as adaptable as the finished product. “You can sub in whatever chiles are…

Pork Tenderloin with Golden Beets Heat 3 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Season 1½ lb. pork tenderloin with salt and cook until browned on all sides, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Cook 2 coarsely chopped medium onions and 3 medium golden beets, scrubbed, cut into small wedges, in same skillet, stirring often, until onions are softened and golden brown, 10–12 minutes; season with salt and pepper. Add 4 finely chopped garlic cloves, 2 cups sauerkraut, ½ cup sauerkraut brine, 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, ½ cup dry white wine, and 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice; bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until beets are fork-tender, 25–30 minutes. Return pork to skillet and push down, nestling into liquid. Increase heat to…

TO CALL MY METHOD FOR applesauce a recipe would be an overstatement. It’s more like I create the ideal environment for apples to transform from a solid to a semiliquid state without having to peel, core, or dice them first. Whenever I have a few extra apples—whether they’re new crop, an ordinary supermarket variety, or slightly bruised, been-around-the-crisper-drawer specimens—I halve them, then toss them in a pot with a stick of cinnamon, juice from 1 lemon, and a scraped-out vanilla bean or 1 tsp. of vanilla extract. I add about ¼ cup water to get things going, then set the flame to medium-low, put the lid on, and walk away. As the apples transform, their skins surrender tannins and color to the sauce, and the fruit steams in its own…

1 Use 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt per lb. 2 Salting the chicken ahead of time allows the seasoning to really penetrate the meat. An hour is great, but longer is even better: Chill the salted bird, uncovered, up to 1 day. 3 Or a 3-qt. enameled cast-iron baking dish. 4 Now’s the time to sprinkle a flavorpacked dry rub over that bird if you’re so inclined. See p. 69 for a few of our faves. 5 This prevents the chicken from sticking to the pan. 6 You can also arrange some veggies around the bird for a builtin side dish. Turn to p. 70 for ideas. 7 An instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast should register 155°; it’ll climb to…

1 WINTER SQUASH, RED 0NIONS, AND PANCETTA Cut 2 red onions into wedges through root end and 2 lb. winter squash (such as kabocha) into 1½"-thick wedges or rounds. Toss in a large bowl with 1½ oz. pancetta, chopped, and 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. 2 CARAMELIZED LEEKS Halve 3 leeks (white and pale green parts only) lengthwise and toss in a medium bowl with 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. 3 FENNEL WEDGES AND CARROTS Cut 2 fennel bulbs into 6 wedges each and 1 lb. scrubbed small carrots on a diagonal into 4"-long pieces. Toss in a large bowl with 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. 4 CRISPY POTATOES Very thinly slice 1½ lb. russet potatoes crosswise using…

SET THE SCENE A diverse mix of bowls in various sizes and materials will bring excitement to your tablescape and hold everything from sauces to garnishes. THE BIG SCOOP This elegant longhandled ladle is perfect for doling out stews from a Dutch oven into the larger soup bowls on these pages. SIZE ’EM UP Check out our recipes for posole at bonappetit.com and then deck the table with toppings like cubed avocados, sliced radishes, shredded cabbage, and other crowd-pleasers.…

No one ever teaches you how to drink. Ride a bike, throw a baseball, or treat others with respect? Yes. Drink? Not really. For the most part, we are raised to believe, at least in America, that alcohol is inherently evil (it’s not), causes trouble (it can), and leads to a life of dependence (in some cases, it certainly does). “Drink responsibly,” the beer ads implore us incessantly during football games, all while depicting a group of friends highfiving, having the most epic time of their lives. What young person wouldn’t be the least bit curious? Who wouldn’t want to get their hands on a six-pack or a pitcher of margaritas and try to replicate that lifestyle? So when you are finally old enough to drink, you often do it…

THE VITALS Hometown New York City Where he’s a regular Cafe Luxembourg Go-to order Ricotta pancakes TV dinner-party faux pas Excessive caviar consumption on Curb Your Enthusiasm Top real-life party snack Quesadillas You don’t survive nearly four decades in a schmoozy industry town like Hollywood without learning the intricacies of a dinner party, so Christian Slater has a handy tip or three for how to be the most gracious guest at any get-together. First, it’s okay to keep the small talk small. “Maybe it’s just me, but I like to start by showing photos of my kids and dogs,” says the Golden Globe–winning star of the USA Network drama series Mr. Robot, back for a third season this month. “It puts people at ease, which is wise. You don’t want…

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com* CHARRED SWEET POTATOES WITH LEMON DRESSING 4 SERVINGS The anchovy-infused olive oil dressing is based on bagna cauda sauce, which adds a bright, salty kick to the caramelized sugars of the sweet potatoes. 2 lb. sweet potatoes, preferably Garnet 2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 lemon 5 oil-packed anchovy fillets 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for drizzling 6 caper berries, thinly sliced, or 2 Tbsp. drained capers ¼ cup parsley leaves with tender stems Place a rack in upper third of oven; preheat to 350°. Prick sweet potatoes all over with a…

Lunch is good, and drinks are fine (if and when I can swing them), but if you really want to meet with me when I’m at my best, please: Let’s have breakfast. Not only am I adrenalized from either biking or getting my kid to school on time, but I’m also full of fresh ideas that haven’t yet been zapped by zero-inboxing or meeting No. 7. And when it comes to the food, it’s win-win all around. To start, there’s never been a more exciting time to eat out before noon. The new wave of all-day cafés are serving dishes so good, so far beyond two eggs and toast, there’s a reason they’re often kept on the menu until late afternoon, whether it’s the barley and roasted veg with za’atar…

You grew up in St. Petersburg, Florida, but this is your first Southern restaurant. Why? “I kind of ran away from Southern cooking because that was the only thing that I knew. I was chasing the dream of learning the culinary arts from the best. And the best at that point in time were all French chefs or American-French chefs.” Did you find a lack of diversity in that world? “There aren’t many people like me in the industry. The few [black chefs] out there aren’t getting recognized. And those who are always need to be Southern chefs. I guess [my first restaurant, Italian-French- Southern–inspired] Salare was kind of me saying, ‘Look, I can do more than Southern food.’” Why do Southern food now? “I had an opportunity to embrace…

FRIDAY IS MOVIE NIGHT at my sister’s house in Oakland, California. When I go for a visit, I get to join—and that means I’m on snack duty with my nine-year-old nephew, Thaddeus, and eight-yearold niece, Nellie. More often than not, we skip the popcorn and make these chewy no-bake puffed-grain-and-granola bars. They’re a little nutty, slightly salty, not too sweet, and infinitely customizable. And once you know the formula, the rest is up to you. Here’s what we do: I scoop a small nub of butter into a 13x9" baking dish and have the kids work it all over the bottom and sides with their hands. Then I measure and they dump in 4 cups unsweetened puffed-grain cereal (we like a mix of rice, kamut, corn, and/or millet), 1 cup…

Does the world really need another roast chicken recipe? Well, if you ask us, it absolutely does need this one, but the rest of them can hit the bricks. That’s because our Cast-Iron Roast Chicken has been tirelessly tested and optimized to cut out all of those annoying steps that people swear are crucial (brining it; flipping it every 15 minutes; basting it fastidiously) and still produce the best possible bird. Every. Single. Time. It’s simple, it’s memorizable, and it’s here to stay. Here’s what’s special about it. 1 THE CHICKEN Size matters. This isn’t the time for a mammoth Oven Stuffer, nor do we want some petite poussin—a 3½–4-lb. bird has the proportions we’re after. When the breasts are roasted to perfection, all that dark meat is on-the-nose-done too.…

NO-ROUX PAN GRAVY Place skillet with pan drippings over medium heat and pour in ½ cup dry white wine, scraping up any browned bits stuck to pan. Continue to cook until wine is almost completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in 3 Tbsp. heavy cream; season with salt if needed. (Add a splash or two of water to thin if gravy is too thick.) PAN-DRIPPINGS CROUTONS Reduce oven temperature to 350°. Add 2 cups small pieces country-style bread to pan drippings in skillet. Drizzle with 2 Tbsp. olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Scrape up any browned bits (you can add 1 Tbsp. water if they are really stuck) and toss bread well to coat. Cook, tossing occasionally, until bread is golden brown…

WHAT IS IT about the word entertaining that sends people into a state of panic, hunting down matching plates and googling things like “Easy Peking Duck at Home”? Well, my plates don’t match and there is no such thing as “easy” Peking duck (I’ve tried—we ordered pizza), but that doesn’t stop me from sending a last-minute invite to friends asking them to stop by, eat something delicious, and drink lots of wine. I never use the E-word; instead, I call it “having people over,” and just doing that immediately lowers my blood pressure. When writing my first cookbook, Dining In, I wanted the recipes to reflect how I really, truly cook at home, not how I wanted people to think I cook at home. Whether it’s fried lentils for one…

FROM P. 34 CAULI-POWER Test kitchen manager Brad Leone shows how to make the cauliflower crumbles that add texture and creaminess to soups and stews. —NIKITA RICHARDSON 1. Remove any leaves around the base of the cauliflower, then slice it in half through the stem. Set one half aside. 2. Cut the other half into bite-size florets for the soup. Then, take the cauliflower half you set aside and coarsely cut up. 3. Blitz the roughly cut pieces in a food processor until they resemble coarse sand. Add to soup; simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. J’APPROVE! BASQUE CIDER Basque cider isn’t like the too-sweet, headache-inducing stuff you once accidentally ordered at an English pub. Bonedry and barely fizzy, it speaks to the funky, barnyardy side of wild apples—it’s tart and lively, not…

Maybe it’s that plunking down a bottle of amaro in the center of the table after a meal makes us feel like we’re in a Fellini film. Or the fact that bartenders are forever in search of the next thing to add dimension to cocktails. Whatever the reason, there’s no cooler booze right now than amaro. The Italian word for “bitter,” amaro (plural: amari) represents the collective class of regionally inspired bittersweet, herbal liqueurs traditionally served as a digestivo. They can vary dramatically in style: Averna, Cynar, Fernet-Branca, Campari— all amaro. But one thing holds true across the category: We’re into it. SO, HOW’S IT MADE ? STEP 1 Bitter botanicals like gentian root and a blend of citrus peels, herbs, spices, barks, and seeds are macerated or infused in…

The New Tahini Boom Tahini Shakes Goldie in Philly serves vegan shakes made with tahini and soy and almond milk, in flavors like coconut and Turkish coffee. Turkish-Style Profiteroles At Oleana in Cambridge, MA, tahini-filled profiteroles are finished with halva caramel sauce. Halva Ice Cream Sesame ice cream is topped with sesame seeds and halva bits at Russ & Daughters Cafe in NYC. Tahini and Halva Brownies Just one of the recipes we immediately bookmarked in Sweet, Yotam Ottolenghi’s new cookbook. Chocolate Tahini Pudding At Samesa in Brooklyn, tahini adds nutty notes to pudding with a coconut-milk base. —N.R.…

1—START CLEAN Fill a spinner bowl, large bowl, or clean sink basin with cold tap water, add the greens, and agitate gently to remove grit. Lift out and gently shake off excess water. This also revives limp leaves. 2—DRY IT RIGHT Spin dry. Don’t have a spinner— Place two or three paper towels inside a plastic shopping bag with a few handfuls of greens and whirl the bag over your head for several revolutions. Repeat until dry. 3—KEEP IT COVERED Cover the bowl of clean, dry greens with a damp paper towel and chill in the refrigerator until ready to use (up to 3 hours) so your leaves remain crisp and cool and ready for salad greatness. 4—ADD ACID BEFORE OIL You have more control over the balance of flavor…

A roast chicken is a blank canvas. But after years of trying messy marinades, multiday brines, and all manner of buttery slathers and bastes, we hold this truth to be self-evident: Nothing changes the flavor of a roasted bird as quickly and dramatically as a throw-together dry rub. Mix together spices. Rub on chicken. Done. And when the heady aroma of toasty spices and crispy skin start wafting out of the oven, we think you’ll be a believer too. RUB 1 Coarsely grind 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds with 1 tsp. black peppercorns in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle. RUB 2 Combine 2 Tbsp. curry powder with 1 tsp. garlic powder in a small bowl. RUB 3 Coarsely grind 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds with ½ tsp. crushed…

THIS IS HOW YOU CARVE A CHICKEN 1—Cut a slash in the skin where the legs meet the breast to expose thigh joints. 2—Bend back legs to expose joints (they will pop), and cut thighs from body. 3—Eat the oysters (the nubbins hidden where the thighs meet the backbone). 4—Cut through joints to separate legs and thighs. 5—Starting on one side of the breastbone, slice down until the tip of knife hits the ribs, then down along breast. 6—Use your hand to tease breast meat away from rib bones. 7—Cut through joints where wings meet breasts to separate. 8—Cut each breast in half crosswise against the grain. Congrats! You just carved a chicken into 10 pieces. WHY I ROAST “SOMETIMES I ROAST ONE ON A SUNDAY JUST FOR MYSELF. IT’S…

LAST WINTER, MY WIFE INVITED AN OLD FRIEND OVER FOR SUNDAY DINNER. Craving something simple and homey, I suggested spaghetti and meatballs. Simone agreed, adding garlic bread and a big salad to our menu.•That was easy, I thought. Within a few hours, we sat down to dinner with our nineyear- old son and Simone’s friend. After crunching into the fragrant butter-saturated garlic bread, cutting into a plump meatball laden with sauce, and taking a few bites of iceberg coated in a bright acidic dressing, something else crossed my mind: Why don’t we do this every Sunday?•I can’t remember a better home-cooked meal before or since that has hit every pleasure point—rich, crisp, indulgent, nostalgic.•So often when we entertain, we’re intent on making a statement. We want to impress our guests.…

SHOPPING LIST IT’S NOT ENTERTAINING, IT’S “HAVING PEOPLE OVER” pp. 78–89 P. 78 CANDLES From $26 each; aesajewelry.com P. 81 WORKADAY HANDMADE BOWL $58; mociun.com P. 89 WORKADAY HANDMADE TUMBLER $34; mociun.com TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 14–16 BREAD & BUTTERFLY 290 Elizabeth St., Suite F, Atlanta; 678-515-4536; bread-and-butterfly.com JACK’S WIFE FREDA For locations, go to jackswifefreda.com PINEWOOD SOCIAL 33 Peabody St., Nashville; 615-751-8111; pinewoodsocial.com SUPERBA FOOD + BREAD 1900 S. Lincoln Blvd., Los Angeles; 310-907-5075; superbafoodandbread.com TAIL UP GOAT 1827 Adams Mill Rd. NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-986-9600; tailupgoat.com TASTY N SONS 3808 N. Williams Ave., Suite C, Portland, OR; 503-621-1400; tastynsons.com STARTERS pp. 19–30 ATLA 372 Lafayette St., NYC; atlanyc.com DE MARIA 19 Kenmare St., NYC; 212-966-3058; demarianyc.com GOLDIE 1526 Sansom St., Philadelphia; 267-239-0777; goldiefalafel.com JUNEBABY 2122 NE 65th St.,…