Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2017 i Bon Appetit

Most of the year, I peel the watery tomato slices off my Italian cold cut sandwich before I eat it. But come August, I’ll forgo the meat altogether and make those ripe, juicy ‘maters the stars of the show in a Veggie Italian Hoagie. Finely chop 1 cup drained jarred giardiniera and mix into 1 cup mayonnaise in a small bowl. Thickly spread sauce over the bottom half of 4 split 8" soft Italian sub rolls. Cut 4 large tomatoes into ½"- thick slices and place over sauce; season with salt. Thinly slice 1 head of iceberg lettuce and top each sandwich with a thick tuft. Season lettuce with salt, pepper, and a splash of giardiniera brine from the jar (about 1 Tbsp. per sandwich); drizzle with olive oil and…

Grilled Halibut with Tomatoes Prepare a grill for medium heat; oil grate. Finely grate 1 tsp. lemon zest directly over four 5–6 oz. skinless, boneless halibut fillets. Lightly drizzle with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill halibut, turning once, until browned on both sides and just opaque in the center, 5–6 minutes. Toss together 2 lb. mixed tomatoes, sliced, ½ cup sliced drained hearts of palm, and ¼ cup olive oil in a medium bowl. Squeeze in 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, and add some torn basil leaves. Toss well; serve under halibut. 4 servings FISH IS, WITHOUT QUESTION, MY FAVORITE PROTEIN TO COOK. Maybe it’s because I ate so much bad fish as a kid, yet everyone else seemed to love it,…

How’d you get into this? I started a consulting business, and in the late ’90s I was hired to oversee a bankrupt clam farm. The first thing I figured out was that a small guy could do pretty well in this industry, but not a big company What’s with the nickname? A local boat mechanic started calling me that, then it just started to spread. Chefs go crazy for your clams and oysters. Why? We purge our clams so they’re grit-free, then we grade them by weight instead of size, which allows for a more uniform cook time. And we pressure-wash them so no one has to scrub them. With our wild oysters, we hand-chisel them and put them back in the cages for six weeks to fatten up. When…

FROM P. 63 SO FLIP Our stovetop frittata method (who needs the oven in August?) turns out a lightly browned, tender version every time. The secret’s in the flip. —CLAIRE SAFFITZ 1. Once the eggs are mostly set, shake the nonstick pan to loosen the edges, remove it from the heat, and invert a large plate on top. 2. With one hand on the pan’s handle and the other holding the plate in place, quickly and confidently invert the pan and plate together. 3. Carefully slide the mostly cooked frittata back into the pan, uncooked side down, and place back over heat to finish cooking. FROM P. 46 A LOT OF FISH IN THE SEA Most of us will never fillet enough fish to become experts, but that doesn’t mean we can’t at…

THE CHEF SAYS “Stir the pickling liquid into dressings instead of using plain vinegar. Think of it as a better, well-seasoned acid: Juice infuses with the brine as the blackberries marinate.” —PATRICK O’CAIN, chef, Gan Shan Station DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I HAD THE BEST SALAD OF MY LIFE AT GAN SHAN STATION IN ASHEVILLE, NC. THE PICKLED BLACKBERRIES ON TOP STOLE THE SHOW. I WANT TO PUT THEM ON EVERYTHING. —PATRICIA JACOBSEN, Baltimore PICKLED BLACKBERRIES 4 SERVINGS Pickling berries is a great way to make the most of seasonal produce. Try them over ice cream and salad. For more riffs on quick-pickling summer fruit, see Prep School on p. 103. 6 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. fish sauce 2 Tbsp. sugar 6 oz. blackberries Combine vinegar, fish…

1 — GET TO THE ROOT Peel 2 large yellow onions (about 1 lb.). Halve lengthwise through the root. Cut a V-shaped notch around the roots to remove 2 — SLICE IT NICE Flip onions onto cut side. Working one at a time, thinly slice from root to tip. Aim for slices that are 1/8"–¼" thick. 3 — MELT AWAY Heat 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a straightsided skillet or saucepan (to keep onions from flipping out) over medium until melted. 4 — WATCH THE CROWDING Start by adding just a couple handfuls of onion slices. Stir for a minute or two until softened, then gradually add the rest. 5 — GO LOW AND SLOW Season with a big pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir onions every…

Greek Lesson 1 THEY’RE NOT MAKING HUMMUS IN THESE PARTS Instead, locals are into a creamy dip called fava— puréed from lentils or other pulses— that requires almost no effort to blend together. It’s often served alongside fish or as part of a meze spread. Y IAY IA MADE I T LOOK EASY. That’s the first thing Mina Stone learned when she moved to Athens, Greece, in her mid-20s. Every weekend she watched as her yiayia—that’s grandmother in Greek—made dishes to feed a dozen people for lunch using market ingredients. “She had everything done ahead,” Stone recalls. “There’s an art to cooking for a crowd: One thing that’s hot and others at room temperature.” Stone borrowed that idea a few years later when she became the in-studio chef for contemporary…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 14–16 DU’S DONUTS 107 N. 12th St., Brooklyn; 718-215-8770; dusdonuts.com GAN SHAN STATION 143 Charlotte St., Asheville, NC; 828-774-5280; ganshanstation.com JOULE 3506 Stone Way N, Seattle; 206-632-5685; relayrestaurantgroup.com LE COLONIAL 4444 Westheimer Rd., Houston; 713-629-4444; lecolonialhouston.com NORTH BAKERY 70 Battey St., Providence; 401-421-4062; northbakery.com ODD DUCK 1201 S. Lamar Blvd., Austin; 512-433-6521; oddduckaustin.com PUBLIK COFFEE ROASTERS For locations, go to publikcoffee.com TARTINE MANUFACTORY 595 Alabama St., San Francisco; 415-757-0007; tartinemanufactory.com YOUNG JONI 165 13th Ave. NE, Minneapolis; 612-345-5719; youngjoni.com STARTERS pp. 19–30 AUSTIN MOTEL 1220 S. Congress Ave., Austin; 512-441-1157; austinmotel.com THE CHARTER OAK 1050 Charter Oak Ave., St. Helena, CA; 707-302-6996; thecharteroak.com CRAFTSMAN AND WOLVES 746 Valencia St., San Francisco; 415-913-7713; craftsman-wolves.com FRASCA FOOD AND WINE 1738 Pearl St., Boulder, CO; 302-442-6966; frascafoodandwine.com LALITO 104…

1 Open Season If you’re going to sit on a porch somewhere and crack open bottle after bottle of beer, you might as well do it in style. Luckily, these colorful openers have a magnet that keeps all those bottle caps from dropping on the floor. $12 each; areaware.com 2 Better Fish in the Sea Come August we want to be in the backyard grilling fish, not grilling our fishmonger on the relative sustainability of different species (why is it so confusing?!). That’s why we started ordering from Sea to Table (sea2table.com). The family-owned company got its start delivering wild, domestic, and traceable seafood to sustainabilityminded restaurants like Boulder, CO’s Frasca Food and Wine, contracting with independent fishermen from Maine down to the Gulf Coast and all the way to…

A GOOD SUMMER punch can turn a run-of-themill get-together into an unforgettable par-tay. And if it’s easy to make, even better. That’s why we tapped bartender Nick Detrich, a partner at Cane & Table in New Orleans—a city that knows how to enjoy its easydrinking summer cocktails— to come up with a few fiveingredient punches suitable for long, lazy afternoons. “When you think about fresh pineapples, limes, watermelon, and all these juicy fruits that are around, there’s a prime advantage to making punch in the summertime,” Detrich says. And if plain old punch bowls are too simple, feel free to follow our lead and serve these drinks inside the hollowed-out fruits that inspired the punches in the first place. Because simple doesn’t mean you can’t have a little fun with it.…

Wreckfish The Grocery prepares this deepwater grouperlike fish the Iberian way, with potatoes, clams, leeks, and Portuguese linguiça sausage in a saffron broth. Banded Rudderfish Chef Mike Lata loves this jack family member—think of it like a leaner, cleaner-tasting hamachi. At The Ordinary, he smokes it to make his fish pâté app Beeliner Mildly sweet, this small type of snapper is a common catch along the Southeast coast. At Mexican spot Pancito & Lefty, it’s served raw with tangy leche de tigre.…

For the first time in my life, I felt like a narc. As soon as I walked through the front door of the Montauk beach house, chef Gerardo Gonzalez—along with assorted members of the New York food world who were gathered around him in the open kitchen—froze, fell silent, and stared at me wide-eyed like I had just caught them doing something unspeakably illicit. And before I could get the words, “Hi, guys!” past my lips, the bargaining began. “Flour doesn’t count toward the five-ingredient thing, right?!” Gonzalez blurted, pleadingly. (It most certainly does.) “Lexie’s making this mango tart and…I think we might be at six.” The Lexie in question was Lexie Smith, the baker behind the idiosyncratically tasty pastries at El Rey, the Lower East Side café Gonzalez had…

THE VITALS Big gig CNN’s chief Washington correspondent Previous employers Washington City Paper, Salon, ABC First presidential race covered Bush vs Gore Side hustle Cartoonist Hear Tapper talk about partying after a presidential debate—and more!—on the BA Foodcast, available on iTunes. Carbo-Loading on the Campaign Trail—if any publishers are in the market for a different type of political tell-all, Jake Tapper has some stories. The host of CNN’s The Lead and State of the Union (we’re sort of convinced he’s on the air 24 hours a day) hasn’t forgotten the fast pace of the 2000 election, which he covered for Salon, or the fast food that pervaded the pressroom. “I was 30 and still relatively unconcerned about my diet,” he concedes. “Lots of sandwiches, pizza, and pasta.” When Tapper, now…