Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i Bon Appetit

For our online video series, we’ve sent our deputy editor to work around the clock at Waffle House, Chick-fil-A, Caesars Palace, and, most recently, Franklin Barbecue in Austin—that one just scored a James Beard Award. So where should he go next? “Send him to Au Cheval in Chicago to grill up some burgers.” _SEAN MCELHANY “Have Andrew make curry paste with a mortar and pestle at Pok Pok in Portland, OR. I’d love to see how they make their wings.” _ERIC SMITH “Bring him to Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in Columbus, OH, to develop a new flavor. He could serve scoops out of their German Village shop.” _JOE VARGO “It would be fun to see Andrew prep doughnuts for Hole in Asheville, NC. I wonder how he’d deal with the…

For more from Nanjiani, download episode 117 of the BA Foodcast on iTunes. You lived in Pakistan until you were 18. What did you eat growing up? “My mother would always cook—she and my grandmother are the best cooks I’ve ever encountered in my life.” What were some highlights? “Honestly, it was great every day. We would have dal and some kind of chicken or goat curry, or if it was a celebration we’d have biryani, which is still my favorite dish ever. I’m getting hungry talking to you.” What was the transition like when you moved to Iowa for college? “I was really, really homesick for many reasons. Food was one of them. What I missed the most was the spice. Eating food here in the beginning felt really…

MAKES ABOUT 15 ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. baking powder 2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup (packed) light brown sugar ¾ cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs, room temperature 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 pints ice cream (any flavor) 2 pints ice cream (any other flavor) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A ruler MAKE THE COOKIES Whisk cocoa powder, salt, baking powder, and 2_ cups flour in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Reduce mixer speed to medium and add eggs and vanilla; beat until very fluffy, about 30 seconds. Reduce speed…

Garlic-Chile Ground Pork 4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 shallot, chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 dried chile (such as chile de árbol) 1 lb. ground pork 1 Tbsp. fish sauce 1 Tbsp. soy sauce Pinch of sugar 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar Kosher salt Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Cook shallot, garlic, and chile, stirring often, until shallot is softened and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add pork and cook, stirring occasionally, until almost cooked through, about 3 minutes. Add fish sauce, soy sauce, and sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until moisture in skillet is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add broth, reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until liquid is evaporated, 12–18 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and mix…

NEW YORKERS LOVE EXTREMES. In no other city will you find such peaks of kindness and pits of rudeness. We bask topless on rooftops in August and slide down frozen subway stairs in February. We eat hot dogs on dirty streets and take barre classes during lunch hour. And because we value efficiency as much as extremity, we appreciate healthyish restaurants that inject bits of decadence into the menu. Occasionally the two poles even meet in the same item, like the wheatgrass margarita at Dimes. Flooding your system with amino acids while getting tipsy? Talk about multitasking. 1_WHERE IT ALL BEGAN… And by “it,” I mean the wave of California-inspired eateries that started dotting lower Manhattan around 2014 and have since migrated upward and outward roughly in line with our…

8 Ways to Eat, Drink, and Sunbathe This Month Taste the Rainbow Admit it: You’ve ordered a particular dish purely for its Instagram potential. (Us too.) And though the prospect of likes got us reaching for color-blocked beverages, it’s not the aesthetics that keep us coming back. “You can taste the different flavors individually by sipping from the top, then plunging the straw in farther,” explains Katipai Richardson-Wilson, who serves a cachaça sour with beet juice at her Brooklyn bar Dirty Precious. “And when you stir it together, you get the cocktail equivalent of the perfect bite.” _JUNO DEMELO 2 A Day at the Beach The booze, bag, and blankets you shouldn’t leave home without 1 CHELAN CHAIR Sturdy, sensible, stylish. $120; filson.com 2 ICEMULE CLASSIC A cooler you can…

Play It Cool EATING AN ICE cream sandwich can make you feel like a kid again. But if you’ve ever tried making one at home, you know it’s not as easy as 1-2-3. First, there are the cookies themselves. Too thick, and you can’t bite through them. Too thin, and they crumble. You need cookies (like these lacy oatmeal or salty chocolate ones) that hit that sweet spot in between, magically softening as they chill. And yes, it’s key that you freeze your ice cream sandwiches after assembling; you can’t just devour them. As for the ice cream? That’s easy. Just choose your favorite storebought flavors. Then clear some freezer space and get ready to travel back in time. Nostalgia never tasted so good. _CLAIRE SAFFITZ…

“Recipes don’t need to be followed like gospel—they should serve more as guidelines, suggestions, and ingredient lists.” _CHEF BRYANT NG Shredded Chicken Salad with Creamy Miso Dressing 4 SERVINGS 4 slices bacon 1 1½" piece ginger, peeled, cut into very thin matchsticks 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. tahini 1 Tbsp. white miso 2 tsp. fish sauce ¾ tsp. toasted sesame oil Pinch of sugar 4 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided 1 large egg yolk ¾ cup vegetable oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 small rotisserie chicken, skin removed, meat shredded (about 4 cups) 1 head of green leaf lettuce, cut crosswise into ½"-thick ribbons 2 scallions, thinly sliced Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Cook bacon in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, turning slices occasionally, until…

Since 1995 LifeThyme has been an incubator of the newest natural foods. So we asked manager Jason Bander what’s next. LifeThyme Natural Market is one of the few NYC health food stores that has stuck around. How have you done it? It’s cheeky, but we say, “We work hard to make it look easy.” We try to condition tastes in a way that’s gentle but effective. What big shifts have you recently seen? People turning away from soy. Soy-based burgers have been supplanted by bean-based ones. Soy-based ice creams once dominated; now there are cashew and coconut versions. What changes are you forecasting? Development in healthy drinks— more adaptogenic, herbal-based tisanes. And a lot more innovation in the confectionery. Kids are eating dark-chocolate peanut butter cups these days. Any specific…

In CORNWALL, YOU HAVE TO GET lost—desperate and borderline panicky, ready to give up and go home—to let the food magic !nd you. You also have to cast aside your notions of what a restaurant should be. Because in this ocean-"anked southwestern tip of England, hiking trails, parking lots, and beachside snack bars often conceal places of no small magic. That is, if you can !nd them. After decades of visiting London, I realized that with the exception of a day trip to Stratford-upon-Avon some 25 years ago, I’d never been anywhere else in England. On recent visits I’d noticed that the menus at the capital’s best restaurants almost always listed Cornish suppliers, from the monk!sh at the River Café and Clove Club to the lamb at Lyle’s and Fera…

FROM P. 94 IN HOT WATER In general, spices should be bloomed—i.e., heated briefly in a little bit of oil— to help release and magnify their flavors. This is sound advice for spices like cumin, coriander, and mustard seed, which are fat soluble. Saffron, however, is water soluble, which means it should be soaked in hot water for at least five minutes to extract its complex aromas, pungent bitterness, and vibrant color. Since it’s also the most expensive spice in the world, you deserve every last drop.…

SHOPPING LIST COOK LIKE A PRO: SUMMER EDITION pp. 56–69 P. 57 SPRING LINEN NAPKIN $18; shopspring.com P. 59 LOBMEYR GLASSWARE $60–$166 each; abchome.com TRAVEL PLANNER EDITOR’S LETTER p. 10 CAFÉ ALTRO PARADISO 234 Spring St., NYC; 646-952-0828; altroparadiso.com R.S.V.P. pp. 12–14 THE DURHAM 315 E. Chapel Hill St., Durham, NC; 919-768-8830; thedurham.com/dining/ SITKA & SPRUCE 1531 Melrose Ave., Seattle; 206-324-0662; sitkaandspruce.com STARTERS pp. 17–24 CASSIA 1314 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA; 310-393-6699; cassiala.com CHEESE & CRACK SNACK SHOP 22 SE 28th Ave., Portland, OR; 503-206-7315; cheeseandcrack.com DIRTY PRECIOUS 317 Third Ave., Brooklyn; 646-685-4481; dirtyprecious.com HERE’S LOOKING AT YOU 3901 W. Sixth St., Los Angeles; 213-568-3573; hereslookingatyoula.com LITTLE DONKEY 505 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, MA; 617-945-1008; littledonkeybos.com SEAWORTHY 630 Carondelet St., New Orleans; 504-930-3071; seaworthynola.com ZAK THE BAKER 295 NW 26th…

Meet: ANDREA REUSING, executive chef at The Durham Cooking for: 29 years 2011 winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast “Requesting extra-thick cuts—at least an inch—at the meat counter is a worthwhile insurance policy against dry, leathery pork chops. The extra half inch or so allows you to really brown them on both sides without overcooking them. Letting the chops rest (for at least ten minutes) redistributes the juices throughout so every bite is rich and flavorful.” *SUBMISSIONS BECOME THE PROPERTY OF BON APPÉTIT.…

When I first started buying wine, I dreaded coming off like an idiot. You know that feeling: You scan the aisle for a familiar label, but then the shelves close in and paranoia creeps up: “The clerk, he’s watching, isn’t he? He knows I know nothing about wine, doesn’t he?!” You pretend to read a bottle, like you somehow just learned French. The only thing you can decipher is the price, which is even scarier than asking for help. You grab the closest bottle and get the hell out of there. But not anymore! With these tips, you’ll walk into wine shops as confident as Hermione Granger with the right answer. RULE 1 Find a Good Shop Not a grocery store, not the chain with 20 percent off “Six or…

MAKES ABOUT 12 ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter 1½ oz. store-bought waffle cones, lightly crushed 1½ cups old-fashioned oats 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 1½ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 large egg yolk 2 tsp. vanilla extract 4 pints ice cream (any flavors) MAKE THE COOKIES Preheat oven to 350°. Cook butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat, swirling often, until it foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes. Scrape brown butter and toasty solids into a heatproof measuring glass and let cool. Process waffle cones, oats, flour, and salt in a food processor in long pulses until oats are broken up and cones are finely ground. Add brown sugar and pulse to combine. Whisk egg yolk, vanilla, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl.…

Steak with Watercress Salad Whisk 2 tsp. Chinese hot or English mustard powder, 2 tsp. fish sauce, ½ tsp. demerara or light brown sugar, and 1 Tbsp. very hot water in a medium bowl until sugar is dissolved; season with salt and lots of pepper. Add one 1–1½-lb. boneless rib eye or New York strip steak and turn several times to coat. Whisk 1 thinly sliced red Thai chile, 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, and ½ tsp. demerara or light brown sugar in a large bowl; set dressing aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Cook reserved steak, turning every couple of minutes or so, until outside is browned, 7–10 minutes for medium-rare. Add 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter…

Lime Posset with Lychees 4 SERVINGS 2 limes, zest removed in wide strips, plus finely grated zest for serving Pinch of kosher salt ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. sugar 2½ cups heavy cream, divided " cup fresh lime juice 1 15-oz. can lychees, drained Bring wide strips of lime zest, salt, _ cup sugar, and 2 cups cream to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, swirling pan occasionally and being careful not to let mixture boil over, until cream is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lime juice. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass; divide among 4 small glasses, bowls, or 8-oz. ramekins. Chill until custards are no longer warm, about 30 minutes,…

The term pasta salad can, frankly, make the heart sink. Images spring to mind of bowtie noodles prepared hours before serving, thick with mayonnaise, home to all sorts of unseasoned raw veg. This dish has been brought along by one too many well-meaning guests, becoming a timeworn addition to potlucks everywhere. That doesn’t mean, however, that the !avor and look of each element can’t be given its own little bit of attention (or that the whole thing needs to be bound together with mayo). Here’s how I bring pasta salad into the 21st century. THE TOMATOES There’s so much more to do with a cherry tomato than just slice it in half. Roasting tomatoes, for example, intensi"es their impact. Although roasting them as they are with just some olive oil…

CRUDO, which literally translates as raw in Italian, is just that: raw fish. These days you can walk into restaurants of every stripe—from tasting-menu spots to hip neighborhood joints, Mediterranean-leaning to Asian-inflected—and order slivers of insanely fresh, thoughtfully garnished seafood. It may be dressed down (good olive oil, lemon, crunchy salt) or gussied up (tiny herbs, shaved veggies), but either way the idea is simple: to highlight and enhance the very best that the sea has to offer. And while it might have an air of chef-y unapproachability, the good news is that if you’ve got a good fishmonger and a sharp knife, you’ve got everything you need to prepare and serve raw fish at home. (Seriously.) 1 Where to Shop You want to buy from a market that specializes in…

FROM P. 94 Learning how to spatchcock (a.k.a. butterfly) a chicken is a total game changer. Removing the backbone and flattening the bird means you get all the skin on one side (more crispiness! Less flipping!), and the increased surface area cooks way more quickly. Bonus: You’re left with the backbone, which is great stock fodder. (Save them up in the freezer for your next batch.) Here’s how to get cracking. —CHRIS MOROCCO Place chicken breast side down on a cutting board and use kitchen shears or a serrated knife to remove the backbone by cutting along both sides. Turn chicken breast side up and open it so that the cavity is lying as _lat as possible. Press down _irmly on center of breast to _latten. (You may hear a…

THE VITALS Hometown New York City Favorite fancy popcorn flavor Canadian maple Current vacation plans Road-tripping through Vermont Standard summer meal Steamed clams with rosé and grilled sourdough We have to assume that French cinemas frown on bringing in outside food and beverages just like American multiplexes do, but Parisian filmgoers, take note: You have Scarlett Johansson’s permission to stuff kettle corn down your shirts. “I encourage it! I’m a big believer in smuggling,” says the actress and entrepreneur. “I might be a snob, but I’d rather eat gourmet popcorn.” Johansson’s permissive attitude_just might_reveal an ulterior motive; late last year she opened Yummy Pop, a boutique popcorn shop in the Marais district, after noticing a growing American snack-food trend in France. Of course, contraband bags of truffle Parmesan and Canadian…