Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i Bon Appetit

BUY BEYOND THE BARNYARD BA says: “Seek out rabbit, goat, or guinea hen.” Colleen B. says: “Don’t forget about bison. It will never substitute for filet mignon, but it makes a hell of a ragù or burger. It has fewer calories than beef and is certainly more sustainable.” GET THE GOOD STUFF BA says: “Buy your meat from farmers’ markets or a wholeanimal butcher.” Caroline A. says: “There are some excellent sources for humanely raised grass-fed beef and pastured poultry online, like White Oak Pastures and Rocky Mountain Organic Meats.” BONE! IN IS A BONUS BA says: “Bone-in cuts enrich longcooking braises.” Molly T. says: “I save the really big bones for stock. I always roast them first, then cook them in a pressure cooker for 40 minutes with water,…

“It’s not that I don’t like the greats from Bordeaux and Burgundy. But many of those wines have been priced out for the majority of the wine -buying public. I rarely drink that wine—and I work in the business. We’re moving away from rich, full-bodied wines to rustic-tasting, lighter, juicier wines. I’m drinking French country wines— native varieties from family wineries. Ask a sommelier for a provincial wine from the South of France—you’ll get really, really interesting wines that are more affordable. That’s what I get excited about.”…

From the workwear coats and aprons in traditional French blues at Brooklyn’s Sauvage to the stripes at Petit Crenn in San Francisco to the “expat chic” boatneck T-shirts at Cafe Cluny in NYC, we often come for the rillettes, and stay for the fashion inspo. STAFF AT SAUVAGE…

THREE QUESTIONS FOR MARIO CARBONE The Carbone chef on his surprising Vegas pastime What do you do for fun when you’re in town? “I’m a very serious minigolf player. You can play pretty high-level minigolf. There’s often gambling involved for me.” Where do you play? “Topgolf, which is a gigantic golf bonanza. It’s like part driving range, part club.” Part club? “It’s right behind one of the hotels with the afternoon pool parties. You can hear the music while you’re knocking around golf balls. Then you can go join the party if you want. That’s Las Vegas in a nutshell.” INTERVIEW BY NIKITA RICHARDSON OFF-STRIP OBSESSION The first rule of Vegas travel: Leave the Strip at least once. And if you can, get to Spring Mountain Road. The stretch, which…

I’ve never made scallops better than the ones I made with the Hestan Cue. Then again, I’ve never made scallops, period. I have big ambitions in the kitchen but not big skills, so I was intrigued when my wife, Julia Kramer—senior projects editor at this magazine—asked me to try the Cue. It’s a recipe app linked to a special skillet and induction burner from Meyer (the company that produces cookware for a slew of brands). It’s programmed to know that if you want, say, super-crispy skin on a salmon fillet, you should start with a one-minute sear in a 435-degree skillet. (And it has the ability to set itself to exactly 435 degrees.) The Cue looks like the love child of a Roomba and a hot plate (a compliment, in…

Steak and Spring Veg with Spicy Mustard 4 SERVINGS 1 1-lb. boneless New York strip steak, patted dry Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 5 garlic cloves, 1 grated, 4 thinly sliced 1/3 cup Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 1 tsp. honey 1–2 pinches cayenne pepper1 1/3 cup plus 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, divided 1 10-oz. bag frozen peas² 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, cut into 1" pieces Season steak all over with salt and pepper. Whisk grated garlic, mustard, vinegar, honey, cayenne, ! cup oil, and 1 Tbsp. water in a medium bowl to combine; season spicy mustard with salt and pepper. Heat a dry medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Rub steak all over with 1 Tbsp. oil and…

TWO YEARS AGO I threw a D.I.Y. soup-dumpling party that required me to buy an array of kitchen tools I fully expected never to use again: small wooden dowels, plastic soup spoons, and a two-tiered bamboo steamer. Though I was mostly right (why, oh why, did I think it was a good idea to buy a 12-pack of Chinese-style soup spoons?), that steamer has become my shortcut to getting dinner on the table when the last thing I want to do is, you know, get dinner on the table. Set in a shallow skillet of simmering water or broth, a steamer effortlessly transforms the humblest ingredients into a meal: a hunk of firm tofu with toasted sesame oil and soy sauce; a pile of steamed sliced squash ready to be…

IF TOKYO IS NEW YORK CITY with more neon and sake, then Kyoto is Seattle with extra shrines and temples. It’s a city so calming that at first you don’t notice the buzzing food scene that lies beneath. Amid geisha houses and cobblestone streets, you’ll find every possible Japanese food you crave (and some you didn’t know you craved) without the frenzy of Tokyo, nearly three hours to the northeast by bullet train. Walk around Kyoto or, better yet, grab a bike—there are rentals everywhere. Because for all the grilled chicken skewers, crispy pork, and noodles you’re about to enjoy, it’ll be wise to keep moving. Here’s where to stop along the way. 1-KAISEKI BUT MODERN This Japanese city is basically devoted to keeping history alive so—no surprise—it’s the place…

the fry crispy The unmistakable crack of shell meeting countertop. The waves-crashing-on-sand rumble of egg slipping into hot olive oil. The rolling rat-a-tat sputter of white and yolk dancing ecstatically in the pan. Making a perfect fried egg—crisp, rippling edges; warm, molten yolk—should make your heart race a little. And so should eating one, whether you’re fork-and-knifing it au naturel with salt and hot sauce or enjoying it on top of a more elaborate creation. Here’s how to shift your eggs into sport mode. USE THEM! •Top a seared skirt steak! •Put on a burger! •Amp up fried rice! •Tuck into a breakfast BLT! PRO T I P Go hot or go home! You want the oil in your pan to be almost smoking before those eggs go in, especially…

FROM P. 52 STEAK OUT Meaty cauliflower “steaks” are our go-to veggie main. One head yields two slabs, so scale up as needed. CLAIRE SAFFITZ 1. Snap off any large outer leaves and trim just the base of the stem. Cut down the center of the head directly through the stem to halve. 2. Working with each half, cut off outer, rounded edge of cauli!lower to make two steaks about 1 ½" thick. 3. Cut any loose !lorets into smaller pieces. Save for another use (boil and purée, roast, or !inely chop into cauli!lower “rice”). FROM P. 83 S H E L L SHOCK Don’t think you’re a clam person? Consider the cockle. These tiny bivalves—much beloved in the UK and Asia but less popular here— are 100 percent sweet, tender meat with…

Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com STAFF PICK THE FROZEN MANGO LASSI AT PUB ROYALE IN CHICAGO IS AN ADULT SLUSHY I CAN TOTALLY GET BEHIND. IT HAS A FULL SERVING OF FRUIT, AND IT’S NOT TOO SUGARY, SO I DON’T FEEL GUILTY ORDERING A RUM_FILLED SECOND ONE. ASHLEY MASON,contribut ing edi torial assistant FROZEN RUM"MANGO LASSI MAKES 4 Of course, you don’t have to include the rum—just like you don’t have to visit the swim-up bar next time you’re on vacation. 1¼ cups peeled fresh (or frozen, thawed) mango pieces ½ cup gold rum ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup golden syrup or honey 2 Tbsp. plain whole-milk Greek yogurt Pinch of kosher salt ½ tsp. ancho chile powder, plus more for…

THE 2 A.M. EGG SANDWICH PRICEY COOKWARE WE COVET GET ORGANIZED (AND LIKE IT) SILICON VALLEY IN YOUR KITCHEN CHEFS BITE THE DUST Remember when restaurants felt special? When you wore something other than jeans? When the maître d’ would push in your chair? When there were maître d’s? When you’d get butterflies because you weren’t sure which of the three forks to use first? In other words, remember when formal dining meant French? I do, and as much as I love spots with brassica bowls and backless chairs, I miss the pomp and decadence. And I’m not the only lapineating, nostalgia-loving Francophile out there: Restaurants are reinventing fine French dining in 2017 terms. Is it weird if we say… bon appétit?…

Q & A For more than 30 years, Charles Masson ran the front of the house at La Grenouille, one of New York’s most glamorous “jacket-required” French spots. At his new Upper East Side restaurant, Majorelle, the longtime maître d’ is striking a balance between formality and modernity. Casual dining is the trend. How do you create an indulgent experience that’s not stuffy? “When a guest walks in, he or she feels comfortable even before looking at the menu. The owners went through a lot of pains to understand how the light is diffused, how the acoustics are balanced. You don’t even see the air-conditioning vents.” What about the service? “True luxury is having the comfort of being served at the pace you want. If someone is very busy, if…

“My parents ran [lauded NYC restaurant] La Caravelle in the old-school mom-and-pop tradition: being there every day, greeting ever y customer. During the week, even when I was five or six, if my brothers and I wanted to see them, we’d put on our little suits and go eat at the restaurant. It was fine French food—very classic. The pike quenelle was probably my favorite dish. And I have such fond memories of the Grand Marnier soufflé. The food was so different than what we serve at my salad chain, Sweetgreen, but the one thing that connects them is clear: reverence for real food. There’s lots of butter in French cuisine, but there’s this respect around the butter, where it came from, how it was churned. When we opened Sweetgreen,…

1 CROSS FIT Keep dried staples like rice, beans, and oatmeal in this vintage-inspired three-piece ceramic set. Chelsea canister set, $61; wayfair.com 2 CALLING ALL BAKERS A wide-mouthed top makes scooping out flour or sugar, well, a piece of cake. Anchor Hocking Montana jar, $20; oneida.com 3 FOUR OF AKIN These simple stoneware canisters have an airtight silicone gasket for freshness. Set of four Silo canisters, $50; crateandbarrel.com 4 SET IN STONE Place a trio of conical jars on your counter and fill them with snacks you’ll want to access easily. Neutral canisters, from $10; cb2.com 5 KEEP IT SIMPLE This understated porcelain vessel says, “I’ve got it all under control.” Rosenthal Thomas Loft canister, $36; bedbathand beyond.com…

Pizza Rules! …according to Joe Beddia, the dough master behind Philadelphia’s cult favorite, Pizzeria Beddia. Here’s his (maybe-a-littlebit- opinionated) guide to making pro-level pies in your home oven I DIDN’T start out as some formally trained chef guy. I brewed beer for a living until I was almost 30. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it? While I was working at a brewery outside Mito in Japan, I happened to eat the best pizza of my life. Best pizza— in Japan? Crazy, right? After that trip, I knew that I wanted to concentrate on pizza and make it in my own highly personal way. When I returned to Philly, I opened Pizzeria Beddia [which Bon Appétit named the best pizzeria in the country in 2015]. My methods are oldschool: Use the…

Hot Sausage and Cabbage Stir-Fry with Chives1 4 SERVINGS 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 lb. hot Italian sausage, casings removed 2 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil 6 oz. shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 6 cups very thinly sliced Napa cabbage, divided 2 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1/3 cup thinly sliced chives 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 2 tsp. sesame seeds 8 large flour tortillas or mu-shu wraps, warmed Hoisin sauce and Sriracha (for serving) Using your hands or a wooden spoon, work ginger and garlic into sausage in a medium bowl.² Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high and cook sausage mixture, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until browned, crisp, and…

TOP IT WITH ALMOND COCONUT CLUSTERS Toss 2 Tbsp. unsweetened coconut flakes, 1 Tbsp. sliced almonds, 1 tsp. granulated sugar, and 1 tsp. light agave nectar or pure maple syrup on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and toast in a 350° oven until golden, about 4 minutes. Let cool before breaking up into smaller clusters. Chocolate Macaroon Cake 10 SERVINGS This is a cake version of the chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons that are a Passover staple. Any nut will work in place of the almonds. CAKE 1 cup virgin coconut oil, melted, cooled, plus more for pan ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder, plus more for pan 1 cup skin-on almonds 8 oz. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ cup unsweetened shredded coconut 6 large eggs, room temperature…

•Sweet potato hand pie • Shiso rice cakes • Pickled gourds in sake dregs • Green tea mochi • Sesame soft-serve • Preserved daikon • Sashimi skewers • Chocolate éclairs • Takoyaki (fried octopus dough balls) • Baby squid stuffed with a quail egg…

This tray holds business cards at NYC’s Café Altro Paradiso . We spotted these hand made lamps at Denver’s Black Eye Coffee…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 10–12 COLTIVARE PIZZA & GARDEN 3320 White Oak Dr., Houston; 713-637-4095; coltivarehouston.com PUB ROYALE 2049 W. Division St., Chicago; 773-661-6874; pubroyale.com STARTERS pp. 15–28 AUGUSTINE 5 Beekman St., NYC; 212-375-0010; augustineny.com BEIJING NOODLE NO. 9 AT CAESARS PALACE 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas; 702-731-7604; caesars.com BELLECOUR 739 Lake St. E, Wayzata, MN, bellecourrestaurant.com CAFE CLUNY 284 W. 12th St., NYC; 212-255-6900; cafecluny.com CARBONE 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas; 877-230-2742; aria.com DAME 2930 NE Killingsworth St., Portland, OR; 503-227-2669; damerestaurant.com EGGSLUT AT THE COSMOPOLITAN 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas; cosmopolitanlasvegas.com /restaurants/eggslut HENRIETTA’S AT THE DEWBERRY 334 Meeting St., Charleston, SC; 843-872-9065; thedewberrycharleston.com HONEY HI 1620 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 213-221-7810; honeyhi.co L’OURSIN 1315 E. Jefferson St., Seattle; 206-485-7173; loursinseattle.com LE…

THE VITALS Inducted into Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in 2006 Gig before making it big Waitress at Max’s Kansas City Who she waited on The members of Jefferson Airplane Can’t resist Coffee and chocolate When your music career spans four decades and 40 million albums sold, chances are you’ve experienced your fair share of sex, drugs, and rock and roll. But Debbie Harry isn’t shy about what fuels Blondie these days: smoked fish and vegetable juices. “We try to have a very reliable menu,” says the New Wave icon of her backstage staples. “Smoked salmon, roast chicken, and always a juicer.” Not that Harry has lost her edge; next month Blondie releases Po11inator, the band’s 11th studio album—featuring collaborations with Sia and Charli XCX—and this month they’ll co-headline…

“In the school of farmers’ market veg, purple daikon is the gorgeous prom queen who’s also the valedictorian of her class. She’s got everything going for her: seasonal (best in early spring and early fall), delicious in raw form as well as cooked, and a beauty on film.” _JUNE RODIL, co-owner, June’s All Day in Austin “Skip the market and gather armfuls of wild mustard for free. In Michigan it grows everywhere, and you can make a mean pesto with it.” _MOLLY MITCHELL, co-owner, Rose’s Fine Food in Detroit “I nominate fiddlehead ferns to replace ramps as the ‘It’ ingredient. I pickle a bunch, deepfry them, then serve them with lemon aioli. They’re my version of a fried pickle.” _GREG BAXTROM, chef-owner, Olmsted in Brooklyn “Celery root is usually a…

Quenel les de brochet Pike dumplings— fish puréed with lots of butter and cream—were a staple of the “Le and La ” restaurants of the ’60s. Now they’re on the menu at Le Coucou in NYC with a classic lobster sauce. Escargot L.A. has officially become a mollusk town. At Petit Trois, the snails are drenched in a garlic-parsley butter. At Spring, an ar tful presentation (above) tilts them more avant-garde than bistro. (But yes, there’s still butter and garlic.) Veal blanquet te A stew of veal in a roux-based cream sauce that goes against everything modern chefs love: no browning, no colorful garnishes. This dish—a Sunday night special at NYC’s Augustine—should be as pale as possible, and we like it that way. Pommes al igot Picture the glorious cheese…

Dehydrator-wielding chefs have been cooking with dusts—basically, tricked-out versions of those onion and garlic powders languishing in your cabinet—for years. Now you can do the same at home with new jarred offerings from Sonoma’s Shed restaurant. Stir the tarragon-caper dust into butter and rub on roast chicken, or add the shiitake to stock for an instant umami boost. And look for flavors like sauerkraut, green garlic, and seaweed debuting later this year. ($15 each; shop.healdsburgshed.com)…

Tiny tweezered microgreens (basically baby plants with a more delicate flavor of their future selves) are no longer reserved for the most rarefied restaurants. Now you’re as likely to see them crowning grain bowls at healthierthan- thou spots like L.A.’s Honey Hi. The next place you’ll see them? The supermarket. Fiery radish sprouts, vibrant microcelery, and others are popping up in the produce section, and they’re worth buying to perk up sandwiches or salads. This is huge, folks. A SMALL (GET IT?) SAMPLE OF MINI GREENS Pea shoots Shiso Bull’s blood beets Celery Fennel…

Chicken with Buttery Orzo Preheat oven to 400!. Pat dry 6 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 2 lb. total); season all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Nestle chicken, skin side down, in skillet in a single layer with no gaps (if they don’t all quite fit, wait until chicken shrinks slightly, then puzzle in the rest). Cook until meat is opaque around the edges and skin is deep golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Turn chicken skin side up and bake in oven, uncovered, until cooked through, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Meanwhile, chop 1 fennel bulb, then chop fronds and set aside. Remove and discard dark green top from 1 leek; chop up what’s left. Place…

When I started writing recipes more than a decade ago, the humble cauli!ower needed a fair amount of !ag-waving. Nowadays it’s been claimed as much by those who like to grate things raw as by those who like to chargrill things hot. Cauli!ower tabbouleh, cauli!ower rice, whole-roasted cauli!ower, cauli!ower fritters and soups and purées—this is a bandwagon I’m very happy to be on board. I particularly love cauli!ower steaks: Their texture is meaty enough to really satisfy, but, at the same time, the !avor is not so dominant that you can’t have a lot of fun with a punchy sauce (see Walnut-Caper Salsa) or a creamy accompaniment like this Cauli!ower Purée. Or—my preference—both. 1-THE STEAKS These always look beautiful, especially if they still have some of their inner leaves, which…

…for sake The quiet eight-seat Yoramu is helmed by an Israeli expat who schools you in the right way to choose brewed rice wine. Flights are under $15; flavors range from coconut to mushroom. …for gin Daytime smoothie café Nokishita711 morphs into a tiny bar at night, with an impressive selection of global craft gin. Cocktails are the move here, like the Laundry & Tonic, made with lavender gin, rosemary, and pepper. …for beer At Before9, there are eight Japanese brews on tap, such as Whole-Heartedness, a Kyoto-made IPA. The lounge plays classic samurai movies and serves solid fries, too.…

FENNEL When making a ragù, finely chop the bulb, thinly slice the stem, and use along with aromatics as the base; that aniselike taste will cut through any richness. And save the fronds for a pretty garnish! RAMPS When ramp season is in full swing, try the bulbs in place of garlic cloves in any essential pasta sauce, such as a rampcentric version of aglio e olio, a quick ramp-andcherry- tomato sauce, or as the base of linguine with white clam sauce. ENGLISH PEAS Add a handful of freshly shelled peas to carbonara (or other) sauce when you’re tossing in noodles—the peas will add delicate sweetness and a pop of crunchy texture. GREEN GARLIC If you see some, grab some! The juicy, immature cloves are mellower than regular garlic. Crush…