Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2016 i Bon Appetit

The best pink wines of summer are not what you think AH, SUMMER. Nothing like kicking back with a cool, refreshing glass of red wine. Yup, you read that correctly. Because while everyone on your Instagram feed is hashtagging their glasses #yeswayrose, I’ll be stocking my cooler with reds. I’m not talking bold Malbecs or Merlots, but reds that you might just mistake for rosé, light in color and body and chilled to ideal relaxing-inthe-backyard temps. These are reds you can literally see through. They’re crisp, highacid, and simple enough that you can drink them without worrying about whether you’re tasting black pepper or tobacco smoke. A light red is the caftan of summer drinking: easy, elegant, unexpectedly cool. It can take you from the pool to the grill, even…

Mauviel’s copper jam pan (from $200; mauvielusa .com) is a summer essential in Krasinski’s kitchen. FIVE YEARS AGO, 20th Century Cafe owner Michelle Polzine gave me an antique Hungarian copper jam pot for my birthday. As soon as I made my first batch in it, I was like, “Ohhh, this is why people use these.” The pot makes the shiniest, sexiest jam you can imagine. One major difference is texture. Run a rubber spatula across the bottom of a stainless-steel pot and there’s a little bit of a drag. With copper, it’s completely smooth, so you can really detect the differences in the jam itself. It’s kind of like making bread, when you’re really listening to the dough and looking at it. The copper allows you to get more in…

The Hard (Boiled) Sell This cookedyolk trick works for more than shortcakes. See Prep School, page 113. BA’s Best Strawberry Shortcake SHORTCAKES 2 hard-boiled egg yolks, cooled 1 ⅓ cups all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. semolina flour or fine-grind cornmeal 1 Tbsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. granulated sugar 6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces ⅔ cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream Sanding or granulated sugar (for sprinkling) ASSEMBLY 1 ½ lb. strawberries (about 1 qt.), hulled, halved, quartered if large ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest Kosher salt 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice, divided 1 cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar ½ vanilla bean, halved lengthwise SHORTCAKES Preheat oven to 350°. Pulse egg yolks, both flours, baking powder, salt, and…

Grilled Halibut Niçoise with Market Vegetables 4 SERVINGS If it looks good at the market, it will be good in this salad. 4 large eggs 1 ½ lb. skin-on halibut fillets 2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 lb. mixed vegetables (such as scallions, garlic scapes, Romano beans, halved small eggplants, halved baby or new potatoes) 4 cups torn lettuce leaves (such as romaine, red leaf, or butter) 1 cup Sun Gold tomatoes, halved 1 small bunch breakfast radishes, trimmed, halved lengthwise 1 cup Green Olive Tapenade (see recipe) Cook eggs in a large saucepan of boiling water 7 minutes. Drain and place in a large bowl of ice water; let cool. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Rub halibut with 2 Tbsp. oil; season…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN FROM P. 44 These summer rolls are so easy, even your kids (or Andrew Knowlton’s) can make them— as long as they follow these three simple steps. —BELLE CUSHING 1. Place fillings just below center of rice paper (lettuce first, then noodles, then veg). 2. Fold in sides of rice paper to cover some of the filling. 3. Fold up bottom half of paper and roll away from you, holding in sides as you go, to form a tight cylinder about 1" diameter. FROM P. 101 ZEST FOR DRINKING The BA staff agrees: Grapefruit soda is the ultimate no-brainer summer cocktail mixer. It’s bitter, it’s tart, it’s sweet—what’s not to like? But when it came to picking a preferred brand,…

The outrageous hospitality rider holds a special place in arena tour lore, from Van Halen’s no-brown-M&M’s policy to Mötley Crüe’s demand for a submachine gun, a boa constrictor, and a jar of Grey Poupon. While Selena Gomez is packing venues this month on her Revival tour, the 23-year-old singer (and Instagram sensation) hasn’t reached hair-metal-worthy levels of contractually obligated excess. “I keep things pretty simple [backstage],” she insists. “Plenty of water and pickles.” And on the tour bus? “Hot Cheetos and chocolate are staples.” Of course, it takes more than gherkins and Chester Cheetah to power a 43-date marathon across the U.S. and Canada, and Gomez admits she’s looking forward to a few pit stops along the way, specifically when the tour heads south to her home state of Texas.…

RECIPES, TIPS, AND MENU IDEAS FROM OUR EXPERTS How do you improve on a classic Caprese? Grill your tomatoes—then turn the salad into a Charred Caprese Sandwich. First, you’ll need a spread for the bread: Mix . cup mayonnaise, 2 tsp. Dijon mustard, and 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice in a small bowl; season with salt. Then, combine 1 thinly sliced large shallot, 1 finely grated garlic clove, and 3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar in another bowl; season with salt. Let sit 10 minutes. Split a baguette in half lengthwise, brush cut sides with olive oil, and grill over medium-high. Transfer to a plate; season with salt. Set a large cast-iron skillet on grill grate and let it get hot. Drizzle 3 cups cherry tomatoes with some olive oil and…

BA’s Best Hot Fudge Cook 1 ¼ cups heavy cream, ⅔ cup (packed) dark brown sugar, ⅓ cup brown rice syrup or dark agave nectar, 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and ¼ cup water in a medium heavy saucepan over medium, stirring to dissolve sugar. Fit pan with a candy thermometer. Increase heat to medium-high and bring mixture to a boil. Cook, swirling pan occasionally (do not stir), until thermometer registers 220°, 6–8 minutes. Remove pan from heat and remove thermometer. Add 5 oz. chopped unsweetened chocolate; stir until melted and mixture is smooth. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring and scraping down sides and bottom of saucepan, until thickened and bubbling rapidly, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; whisk in ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder, 2…

WHERE GREAT TASTE BEGINS At Hometown in NYC, you’ll find pastrami bacon next to pulled pork and Italian sausage beside collards. BBQ is changing. And we like it. YOU MIGHT THINK BARBECUE IS ALL ABOUT TRADITION, about doing things the way they used to be done. But new ingredients, creative methods, and fresh faces have always found their way into one of this country’s oldest cuisines. From Savannah to Seattle, the most recent wave of pitmasters preach the gospel of allwood cooking, just like barbecue’s earliest practitioners. But in many ways they act more like chefs than grizzled veterans. Heritage hogs are showing up on menus. Everything is homemade, down to the pickles. Wellmarbled Prime has replaced leaner Select as the preferred grade of brisket. These neotraditionalists are young—most are…

Alternative Vehicles There’s more than one way to squish a scoop of ice cream. Case in point: next-gen ice cream sandwiches that replace cookies with waffles (Parlor Deluxe, Charleston, SC), funnel cake (Quenelle, Burbank, CA), and doughnuts (Curiosity Doughnuts, Stockton, NJ). Below, lime cake cradles rum and mint ice cream for a mojito version at NYC’s Pearl & Ash. CHEAP, COLD, AND OUT-OF-CONTROL DRINKABLE If you, like me, are a wine drinker who cares less about things like “fruit” and “body” and more about “chuggability” and “coldness,” consider Malamatina Retsina, the (invitingly cheap) pinescented Greek wine I’ve fallen for. —AMIEL STANEK THE EXCERPT “When you’re having company, sometimes it’s nicer to put food on plates because ‘a dinner party of sandwiches’ sounds like a cry for help.” —Chef Tyler Kord,…

grilled pizza 2.0 PIZZA THRIVES ON HEAT—lots of scorching heat to get that crust to spring into bubbly, blistered shape, to melt cheese, and to perform the too-many-tocount alchemical tasks required to turn a disk of dough into basically the best food there is. Which is why the grill is a pizza’s best friend: It generates way more heat than most home ovens can, getting you closer to the fiery conditions created by a proper pizzeria’s deck oven. We like to take it one step further by placing a ceramic pizza stone on our grill, letting it get wicked hot, and using that as the platform for our smoky backyard pies. It harnesses and evens out all that obscene heat, kind of like the floor of a pro pizza oven,…

Contramar’s Red and Green Grilled Snapper 8 SERVINGS We modified Contramar’s whole-fish method with individual fillets, which are easier to handle— but the flavor is the same! RED CHILE SAUCE 4 dried cascabel chiles or 1 pasilla chile, seeds removed 1 ancho chile, seeds removed 1 dried guajillo chile, seeds removed 1 pasilla chile, seeds removed 2 dried chiles de arbol 4 plum tomatoes, cored ¼ medium white onion 5 garlic cloves, peeled 2 whole cloves ½ cup vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. ground achiote (annatto) seeds ¼ tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. Mexican or Italian oregano Kosher salt PARSLEY SAUCE 4 garlic cloves 2 cups (packed) parsley leaves with tender stems ½ cup vegetable oil Pinch of ground cumin Kosher salt…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp._10–14 51 LINCOLN 51 Lincoln St., Newton Highlands, MA; 617-965-3100; 51lincolnnewton.com PICCO 513 Tremont St., Boston; 617-927-0066; piccorestaurant.com ST. ANSELM 355 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn; 718-384-5054; stanselm.net THE NEW BBQ pp._17–24 B’S CRACKLIN’ BBQ 12409 White Bluff Rd., Savannah; 912-330-6921; bscracklinbbq.com BLACK BARK BBQ 1325 Fillmore St., San Francisco; 415-848-9055; blackbarkbbq.com BUXTON HALL BARBECUE 32 Banks Ave., Asheville, NC; 828-232-7216; buxtonhall.com CATTLEACK BARBEQUE 13628 Gamma Rd., Dallas; 972-805-0999; cattleackbbq.com THE GRANARY ’CUE & BREW Avenue A, San Antonio; 210-228-0124; thegranarysa.com GREEN STREET SMOKED MEATS 112 N. Green St., Chicago; 312-754-0431; greenstreetmeats.com HELEN’S BAR BQ 1016 N. Washington Ave., Brownsville, TN; 731-779-3255 HOMETOWN BAR-B-QUE 454 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn; 347-294-4644; hometownbarbque.com KILLEN’S BARBECUE 3613 E. Broadway St., Pearland, TX; 281-485-2272; killensbarbecue.com PICNIC 1647 Cole Mill Rd., Durham, NC; 919-908-9128;…