Innholdsfortegnelse for Mar-15 i Bon Appetit

1. STOP AND SHOP Rolling pins, tote bags, and other design-y merch remind you that it’s not just a bakery— it’s a lifestyle. 2. CONNECT ME NOT Leave your laptop at home; this is a no-Wi-Fi zone. Think of it as coffee-shop backlash. 3. KILLER COFFEE Single-origin beans from Four Barrel and ace baristas keep the bakery buzzing all day. 4. FLOUR SHOW If you’ve got it, flaunt it. House-milled organic whole grain flour is on display. 5. PASTRY PLUS Expect more than classic croissants. There might be kimchi in those morning buns. 6. COOK OUT The baking’s done on-site, often in view of (drooling) customers. 7. PROPOSE A TOAST There’s a pricey toast menu, of course. 8. BRAND OF BAKERS Bakers today aren’t anonymous laborers— they’re earning the name…

Locally Sourced Bakers source their carrots and basil locally, so why not flour? Avery Ruzicka of Manresa Bread in Los Gatos, CA, is on a quest to buy all her flour from California and Pacific Northwest farms. It supports the region and ups the freshness factor (see below for more). Daily Grind A handful of bakeries— Tabor Bread, Farm & Sparrow, The Mill— have begun milling their wheat, rye, and corn in-house using traditional stone mills. This preserves both the bran and the germ (where all the nutrition and flavor reside) and means ultrafresh flour. Wheat starts to oxidize (a.k.a. go stale) when you crack it. “We mill it one day and mix it into dough the next,” says The Mill’s Josey Baker. Heirloom Grains The most delicious breads right…

DANNY BOWIEN Robertson helped the chef develop the pizza for Mission Chinese’s NYC reopening. CARLO MIRARCHI His Roberta’s staff got an impromptu seminar in advance of opening their new NYC bakery. JOSH SKENES The Saison chef discussed grains to prep for his Chinese noodle concept in SF. ROSIO SÁNCHEZ The former Noma pastry chef flew to SF to clock some time on the Tartine bread shift. CHRISTIAN PUGLISI The Relæ chef joined Robertson in Rome to do pizza R&D for Copenhagen’s Bæst. SARAH LEMKE Robertson jetted out to Ghent, Belgium, to meet with the baker behind De Superette. JON DARSKY Together they worked out kinks in the dough at SF’s crazy mobile pizzeria, Del Popolo. IVAN ORKIN The global ramen guru, known for rye noodles, called to talk other altgrain…

I’m not afraid of being called a nerd, which is why I’m telling you that I am really into my pressure cooker. Go ahead, laugh. Joke about it exploding in my face. I’ll just be over here cooking unbearably delicious things in a quarter of the time it takes you. It all started with the most incredible pot of chickpeas I’ve ever tasted. Even unsoaked, they came out creamy inside—in 22 minutes flat. Since then I’ve cooked chicken stock in 45 minutes, brown rice in 12, and perfect polenta without taking my hands out of my pockets. You kind of want one now, don’t you? Luckily, the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen tried out a fleet of models, and our favorites are on the next page. Revenge of the nerds. HOW…

WHY WE… FLIP THE CHOPS Frequent flipping produces a deep-brown crust and an evenly cooked rosy interior—plus, the meat cooks in less time since both sides are in near-constant contact with the pan. For the best results, try this technique with the thickest, fattiest chops you can find. Your New Favorite Pork Chops ACTIVE 20 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN 4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 1½″-thick bone-in pork rib chops (8–10 oz. each) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 sprigs sage 2 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Season pork chops all over (including the fat cap) with salt and pepper. Cook pork chops until bottom side is golden brown, about 1 minute. Turn and cook on other…

FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS STORY, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES The last time I ordered soup in a restaurant was— well, let me see—possibly never. That’s because in my mind, soup is something to be made and eaten at home, ideally with a cuddly animal at your feet in front of a blazing fireplace while the wind whips outside. The soup I’m talking about is never bland or thin; it’s hearty, warming, and nourishing. I’m talking about transforming chicken wings into a full-bodied, deepamber stock. I’m talking about quietly coaxing cauliflower into a lush purée—no cream required. These techniques take some time, so set aside a lazy afternoon to let soup do its thing, melding disparate flavors into a cohesive whole. You’ll be rewarded with a bowl of…

Simmering vegetables in a covered pot over low heat so that they steam in their own liquid—a French technique called à l’étouffée—is the ticket to achieving a soup with pronounced depth. We love this method with cauliflower, but also try it with celeriac or rutabagas Cauliflower-Cashew Soup with Crispy Buckwheat ½ cup olive oil, divided 4 large shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 bay leaves 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves Kosher salt ½ cup dry white wine 1 large head of cauliflower, cored, cut into small florets, stem chopped, divided ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. cashews 6 cups (or more) vegetable stock, preferably homemade Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. buckwheat groats 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. paprika ALWAYS SEASON AS…

1 Build texture The most important textural element in the dish is the pasta itself. A delicate noodle needs a delicate sauce—think spaghetti with crab. A sturdier shape like rigatoni begs for a robust accompaniment, something meaty or spicy (or both). Layer on even more by adding things like breadcrumbs and nuts. 2 About that sauce… Krajeck finishes all of his pastas in a pan with the sauce ingredients and some of the pasta cooking water, tossing everything together until the liquid emulsifies into a glossy “condiment,” as he likes to say. This technique requires slightly undercooking the pasta so that it won’t go gummy. 3 Make it go “pop” Acidity is the difference between restaurant cooking and home cooking, says Krajeck, who adds, “It’s so not about fat these…

FROM P. 90 You may associate instant espresso with youth hostel breakfasts, but those granules have real utility in the kitchen. Like salt and sugar, coffee acts as a flavor enhancer in both savory and sweet dishes. We like the Italian-made Medaglia d’Oro Instant Espresso for its easy-dissolving quality and round flavor. And you don’t even have to brew it: Just whisk granules (about 1 tsp. will do) into aioli, vinaigrettes, meat marinades, stews, and, our favorite, brownie batter. Stir until crystals are dissolved for a subtle boost.…

An•cient Grains A buzzy term that refers to grains other than modern cultivated wheat. Examples include spelt and Kamut (heirloom wheats) and teff. Crumb The soft interior of a loaf (the stuff inside the crust). It might be open and irregular (think ciabatta) or tight and dense (more like health bread). Hy•dra•tion The ratio of liquid to flour in a dough. The cool kids are into high-hydration (really wet) doughs, which take finesse to handle but yield a chewy crumb. Miche This year’s “it” loaf (say “meesh”), often sold in halves or quarters. A supersize Frenchstyle, typically round bread that boasts a thick, extra-dark crust. Nat•u•ral•ly Leav•ened Code for bread that utilizes a sourdough starter instead of commercial yeast. Used by bakeries committed to Old World baking techniques. Sour•dough Start•er…

Good bread does have one liability: a short shelf life. Brad Holderfield of Tabor Bread in Portland, OR, tells us how to eke out a few extra days Shop small Many bakeries sell half or quarter loaves—be realistic about how much you’ll use. Buy whole grain Breads with some whole grains contain more pentosans, compounds that retard staling. Bag it Store it in a sealed plastic bag to keep it soft. You’ll lose the crispness of the crust, but you can regain some of that by warming it in a low oven. Freeze it If you know you won’t eat it all, freeze half, tightly double-wrapped in plastic. Defrost at room temperature and warm in a 350-degree oven. —H.W.…

THE VITALS Age 35 Hometown St. Louis Favorite hometown pizza Imo’s Lasting lesson learned Never get meat at a bus station Crowning culinary achievement Third place in a gooey butter-cake contest on the set of The Office Everyone has a go-to dish. What’s yours? “Mexican turkey stew. It’s turkey, salsa, and hominy. You put it in the slow cooker for six hours, and it makes the person cooking it look like she knows what she’s doing— even when that isn’t necessarily the case.” You recently left L.A. What will you miss— or not—about the food scene? “I became very aware of juicing when I was there. For a few months, I’d have a green juice every day, but one day I realized I’d rather eat those ingredients than drink them.”…

FOR COMPLETE NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS STORY, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES Starch de Triomphe Double-baking means double the fun—and the indulgence. This hybrid of baked and mashed potatoes is comfort food par excellence Twice-Baked Potatoes 4 SERVINGS active 35 min -total 2 Hr Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Poke 4 large russet potatoes all over with a fork; rub with 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil. Bake directly on oven rack until very soft when squeezed and skins are crisp, 50–60 minutes. Let cool just until you can hold them. Using a serrated knife, slice potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop flesh into a medium bowl. Add ½ cup sour cream, ¼ cup unsalted butter, ¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives, and 1 Tbsp. finely…

WHY WE… CHOOSE BROWN LENTILS Slightly larger than the red or fancy black kind, brown lentils are ideal for sautéing because they’re less likely to f all apart when crisped up in the skillet. Spicy Lamb and Lentils with Herbs ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil ½ lb. ground lamb Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ tsp. cumin seeds 1 ½ cups cooked brown or French green lentils (from 1 cup dried) ½ English hothouse cucumber, chopped ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus leaves for serving ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, plus leaves for serving ¾ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt Flatbread and lemon wedges (for serving) Heat oil in a medium…

Our best-ever chicken stock begins with wings, which have a high skin-to-meat ratio. Browning the wings results in lots of caramelized nooks and crannies that imbue the stock with a deep, savory flavor Double-Dark Chicken Noodle Soup DARK CHICKEN STOCK 1 leek Stems from ½ bunch parsley 6 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 3 lb. chicken wings 1 onion, unpeeled, quartered 3 carrots, peeled 2 celery stalks 2 garlic cloves 1 Tbsp. tomato paste ½ tsp. black peppercorns ASSEMBLY Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 ½ lb. bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 8 oz. carrots, peeled, sliced ½″ thick 8 oz. pearl onions, peeled, halved through root 8 oz. egg noodles Fresh chervil (for serving) HEAT YOUR BOWLS > Ladling hot soup into cold bowls will…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE RESTAURANTS AND OTHER SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 98. If good beer were all Asheville, North Carolina, had to offer—and with nearly two dozen breweries and the nickname Beer City, USA, it has a lot of good beer—we’d still hop a flight. But beer is just the start of what’s happening here. The combination of creativity and drive that fueled the craft brew movement has also inspired a scene where food, booze, music, and art are booming. Pedigreed chefs and mixologists—not to mention artists and musicians—keep moving in. They’re lured by the scene, sure, but also the mountain locale and hippie vibe. New spots offering everything from Indian street snacks to barrel-aged cocktails to riffs on traditional Southern food continue to raise…

FOR A MINI-DOC OF ANDREW’S DAY AT THE WAFFLE HOUSE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/WAFFLEHOUSE I remember my first time. I was 17 and a little tipsy.  It was late. I didn’t plan it, it just happened. It always just happens, right? I don’t recall many of the details, but I know I left happy and satisfied with a gentle “Thanks, hon!” ringing in my ears. From that moment on I was in love…with the Waffle House. For the uninitiated (assuming there are still some of you out there), Waffle House is a chain of 1,764 restaurants spread across 25 states. Most are located along the highways and interstates of the South. Think of the Waffle House as the 1950s Main Street diner you never had growing up. The layout is always…

When the smartest food blog in town throws a party in a Modernist masterpiece, what’s on the plate is as bold as the architecture surrounding it. ERNARDO BUKANTZ is shaving spines from cactus paddles (nopales) in the kitchen of Casa Luis Barragán, the Modernist masterpiece that was the late architect’s home. As assistants crowd the kitchen, he talks about the classic dishes of Mexico and just how “classic” they should be. “You need to know what’s in a mole negro,” he says, “but why cook it exactly like they do in Oaxaca? Make it your own.” Heresy? Maybe. But Bukantz is part of a wave of Mexico City chefs, like Enrique Olvera and Jorge Vallejo, who are applying a modern mind-set to traditional ingredients and dishes to shape a new…

FROM P. 58 For salumi lovers, nduja (pronounced en-DOO-yah), the spicy, spreadable Southern Italian salami, is a perfect food. Imagine if rillettes and pepperoni met (gloriously) in the middle. Rich with pork fat, loaded with fiery Calabrian chiles, and packing plenty of air-cured funk, this porcine gold is as magical in pastas as it is schmeared on grilled bread, melted down to make a vinaigrette (no, really—try it!), or stirred into a pot of slow-cooked beans. Lucky for us, we’re seeing it more and more on charcuterie plates in restaurants and in the meat case at specialty stores. We love the versions from Boccalone in SF (boccalone.com; $28 for 12 oz.) and La Quercia in Iowa (zingermans.com; $29 for 12 oz.).…

SH0PPING LIST THE BA Q&A p. 24 GILES & BROTHER CUFF $115; gilesandbrother.com JONATHAN SIMKHAI BLOUSE $385; Elyse Walker Boutique, 15306 Antioch St., Pacific Palisades, CA; 310-230-8882 PAMELA LOVE RING $345; shopbop.com VINCE “RILEY” PANTS $210; shopbop.com COLD COMFORTS pp. 68–77 P. 68 KINTO CAST GLASS MUG $15; ABC Carpet & Home, 212-473-3000 P. 69 SARA BENGUR PLACEMAT $75; ABC Carpet & Home, 212-473-3000 P. 72 METALEPSIS PROJECTS NECKLACE $110; fawnboutique.ca P. 75 JET CAST IRON 7.25-QT. CASSEROLE $166; denbyusa.com MEXICO CITY MODERN pp. 80–91 P. 83 APOLLO GLASS $15; nouvelstudio.com WOVEN CHAIR $210; COFFEE TABLE $35; dtarima.com P. 88 UNIÓN BENCH $170; lametropolitana.com/shop P. 89 DIP BOWLS $6; shop.oy-dy.com TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 12–13 BAR LA GRASSA 800 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis; 612-333-3837; barlagrassa.com ODD DUCK 1201 S. Lamar…

A BA Bread Primer We might be living in the age of gluten-free everything, but the quality of artisanal bread baking in America has never been higher Mahogany-crusted loaves, dark, dense ryes, buckwheat baguettes. America’s bread scene is changing before our eyes. But, like anything worth geeking out over, there’s a learning curve. Just as the coffee craze had its own vocab (cortado, anyone?) and mixology had ice fetishes, the bread cult has a code. Here’s what you need to know, from the lingo to the legends to the loaves we love.…

Most nights our family dinners rely on a philosophy followed by chefs the world over: Use fresh ingredients and mess with them as little as possible. This is easy to live by early in the week, when our fridge runneth over from our big Sunday shop. By Wednesday or Thursday, however, the hyenas (read: children) have thrashed through the fresh stuff, and we have to look elsewhere for inspiration. So we keep the shelves (and fridge and freezer) full of flavor boosters like homemade pickles, good-quality bacon, and those mini-containers of tamarind sauce left over from Indian takeout. Here’s how we put our secret weapons to work. Split Pea Soup Homemade Stock, Split Peas, Bacon If you’ve got great homemade stock, you’ve got great soup. Sauté a little chopped carrot…

Vermouth is more potion than drink. The ultimate cocktail builder (see Martinis and Manhattans) was originally used as a medicinal tonic, with spices and botanicals like wormwood—the German “wermut” inspired the name. Technically, it’s a wine that is aromatized (infused with botanicals) and fortified (spiked with unaged brandy). The brandy helps it last longer than wine, but not much. It’ll start to oxidize after about a month, so keep it in the fridge. STRAIGHT UP At its best, vermouth isn’t just a snazzy cocktail ingredient, it’s a cocktail unto itself. Case in point: a glass of the legendary Punt e Mes over ice (plus an orange peel, if you’d like). The sweet vermouth has more bitterness than its peers—it’s that extra bittering that helps it stand alone. MARTINI MATH It’s…

HALF AN HOUR TO A RESTAURANTSTYLE ENTRÉE > First things first: Get the grits going; they take the longest. START Grind the almonds. Dredge the trout in egg, then press in almonds to coat. 5 MIN Begin cooking trout, two fillets at a time. 10 MIN Wipe out skillet and cook Swiss chard. Give the grits a final seasoning and spoon onto serving plates. Top with Swiss chard, then trout. 20–25 MIN Almond-Crusted Trout with White Grits and Swiss Chard ACTIVE 30 min - total 30 min 4 SERVINGS 1 cup white grits (not instant) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 cup whole skin-on almonds 1 large egg, beaten to blend 4 6-oz. trout fillets 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 bunch Swiss chard, thick ribs and stems removed, torn into…

“If the idea of making a cake during the week causes anxiety, we hear you. Trust: This super-simple recipe is panic-free.” Alison Roman Raspberry-Ricotta Cake ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 35 MIN 8 SERVINGS Nonstick vegetable oil spray 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 2 tsp. baking powder ¾ tsp. kosher salt 3 large eggs 1 ½ cups ricotta ½ tsp. vanilla extract ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup frozen raspberries or blackberries, divided Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 9″-diameter cake pan with parchment paper and lightly coat with nonstick spray. Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk eggs, ricotta, and vanilla in a medium bowl until smooth; fold into dry ingredients just until blended. Then fold…

For rave-worthy soups, skip the store-bought stock. You can extract a cleaner, stronger broth from a combination of water and several pantry ingredients. It’s all about layering powerful flavorenhancers that you probably already have on hand—bacon, tomato paste, herbs, peppercorns, a Parm rind, and, of course, kosher salt Kale Minestrone with Pistou MINESTRONE 3 sprigs oregano 3 sprigs rosemary 2 bay leaves 2 Tbsp. olive oil 4 oz. pancetta (Italian bacon), chopped (optional) 1 onion, chopped 1 leek, white and pale-green parts only, thinly sliced 2 carrots, peeled, chopped 2 celery stalks, chopped 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, drained 1 Parmesan rind (about 2 oz.; optional) 3 cups cooked cannellini beans, cooking…

STROZZAPRETI WITH OXTAIL RAGÙ AND HORSERADISH CRUMBS P. 58 RULE NO.1 to rethink ragù, just add horseradish RIGATONI WITH LEMON-CHILE PESTO AND GRATED EGG P. 59 RULE NO.2 shine bright with lemon YOU NO LONGER NEED A RED-CHECKED TABLECLOTH—or anything Italian—to serve pasta. At today’s most innovative restaurants, pasta is a blank slate for any number of ingredients (lime, nduja, jalapeño) and cuisines (Japanese, Korean, Danish). The techniques are rooted in Italian methods, but that’s the only way pasta seems to be bound by tradition. Need proof? Here are the last three pastas I’ve eaten: squid ink chitarra with blue crab and Old Bay breadcrumbs at Rolf and Daughters in Nashville; pappardelle with honshimeji mushrooms, bitter greens, and miso at Trove in Seattle; and chilled farro spaghetti with sea urchin…

CHANNEL YOUR INNER ITALIAN-MAKE SUND AY SUPPER You know the dinners we’re talking about. The ones you see in Scorsese films? There’s red sauce, meatballs, braciole, pork ribs, and lasagna on the table, and four generations of family around it. Even if you’re not Italian, that doesn’t mean you can’t invite friends over to share this update on Sunday supper: pork ragù served over rich polenta. Add a few bottles of hearty Barbaresco and a lively discussion for the full cinematic effect. MAKE BEANS THE MAIN COURSE With all due respect to lovers of a can of good ol’ B&M Boston baked beans, these creamy baked cannellini beans-cooked in a casserole with slab bacon and topped with garlicky breadcrumbs-are from a different flavor planet. There are bean suppers, and then…

FROM P. 78 A tarte Tatin is all about that layer of shoulder-to-shoulder caramelized apples. So what do you do when your fruit doesn’t fit? Relax. The apple pieces will shrink as they cook, giving you room for any overflow. Here’s how to put them in their place. TEST KITCHEN TALK What to do with extra loaves after a bakery binge? Make croutons! Tear day-old bread into coarse 1-inch shards. Scatter on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Mix with your hands (squeeze the bread so it soaks up that oil). Pop in a 350-degree oven and toast about 12 minutes. Top your favorite soup—say, one from our primer on page 41—and hope for an early spring.…

Protein-packed beans are our kitchen’s unsung heroes, so it’s no surprise that they show up throughout this issue. They’re versatile and sneaky-nutritious. Even better, they come in a long-lasting range of sizes, shapes, and flavors to suit most any dish. A. Black: Sweet, earthy black beans are our pick to pair with Latin and rice dishes. B. Navy: These little guys hold up well to long cooking (hello, Boston baked beans). C. Pinto: Pretty pink, homey pintos are slightly sweet—and the ideal choice for refried beans. D. Cannellini: This Italian standby is our default multitasker, but especially shines in simple roomtemperature salads. E. Kidney: The most substantial in both texture and flavor; made for spicy chilis. F. Flageolet: This ultracreamy French variety needs nothing more than garlic and herbs. G. Fava: We love spreads—fava hummus, anyone?— made…

COOK THE COVER Squid Ink Pasta with Shrimp, Nduja, and Tomato p. 58 APPETIZER Smoked Swordfish Tostaditas p. 90 BEVERAGES American Light p. 26 Especiado Cocktail p. 82 Hot Toddy Pick-Me-Up p. 76 BREAD Anadama Bread p. 77 SANDWICHES Best-Ever Grilled Cheese p. 71 Smoked Trout with Pickled Cabbage p. 20 SOUPS Cauliflower-Cashew Soup with Crispy Buckwheat p. 44 Clam and Cod Chowder p. 77 Double-Dark Chicken Noodle Soup p. 42 Kale Minestrone with Pistou p. 43 Split Pea Soup p. 20 SALADS Grilled Green Salad with Coffee Vinaigrette p. 90 Hearts of Palm and Artichoke Aguachile Negro p. 90 MAIN COURSES FISH Almond-Crusted Trout with White Grits and Swiss Chard p. 34 MEAT Baked Beans with Slab Bacon and Breadcrumbs p. 77 Calabrian Grilled Pork Ribs p. 13 Citrus-and-Chile-Braised…

After months away from her sometime home of New York City—first shooting the series finale of AMC’s beloved Mad Men, and then a trip to Australia—Elisabeth Moss couldn’t wait to get back. And it wasn’t just because that’s where she currently stars in the Broadway revival of The Heidi Chronicles. It was because of the bodegas. “You can get anything you need,” says Moss of the city’s ubiquitous corner stores. “I walked into my local bodega and stood in the aisle, and I swear I almost cried. I was surrounded by everything I wanted. I was so happy.” For the inventory that nearly brought her to tears, see the napkin. SHOP ’TIL YOU DROP “They have every kind of Wheat Thins that you could possibly imagine. It’s the greatest.”…