Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2016 i Bon Appetit

We traveled across the U.S. to find the spots that are really hitting home » The chef who put Seattle on the map... Ramen is everywhere... You’ll want to date this milkshake in Palm Springs... NYC does old-school Italian right... The United Nations of L.A.’s San Gabriel Valley... Because doughnuts never go out of style... This is how you eat Philadelphia... Why San Francisco is winning... The best Mexican food is in Chicago (really!)... A perfect ham and cheese in New York City... Nashville nightlife reboots... A hidden Alaska seafood spot that’s totally worth the trek... One piece of brisket meets eight cuisines in Houston... The Rockaways are as good for grub as they are for sand and surf... Detroit has a sweet tooth... Now that’s what we call a…

BE YOUR OWN BARTENDER This boozy chart (made with help from Audrey Saunders of NYC’s Pegu Club) is just a starting point. Use it to mix up any combo of sour, sweet, and liquor you like. HERE’S HOW THIS WHEEL WORKS Start at the center for the formula and technique behind all sours, a family of citrus-based cocktails. Pick a BASE LIQUOR, then add the SOUR [●] and SWEET [♦] ingredients and sometimes a bonus element or two. GARNISH [▲] as directed.…

“You have to use your nose. It should smell deep, nutty, caramelized, like sugar is cooking. Take it almost too far, then get it out of the pan.” —Vivian Howard THE PRO VIVIAN HOWARD Boiler Room / Kinston, NC BUTTER IS GOOD. BROWN BUTTER IS BETTER. Cooked to the breathtaking boundary between caramelized and burnt, it’s nutty and complex, the sultry signature flavor in French-y classics like financiers. But in 2016, brown butter isn’t just for Francophiles. We’ve seen it as a glaze for wok-fried brussels sprouts at Chicago’s Mott St and infused into bourbon for the Good Ol’ Boy cocktail at The Bonnie in Astoria, NY. “It adds another dimension, a depth you don’t get from anything else,” raves chef Vivian Howard. At Boiler Room, her Eastern Carolina oyster…

THE PROCESS What allows this cake to be both featherlight and ultramoist? It’s all in how you combine the ingredients. Beating the eggs and sugar whips air into the batter, and streaming in the oil creates an emulsion. Those air bubbles expand in the hot oven, yielding a fluffy but substantial cake. THE RAISINS Raisins in any baked good are controversial, but here they’re soaked in rum, which keeps the cake deliciously moist. (Don’t worry, they’re still optional.) THE SPICES We add a generous amount of cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. It’s not just a “hint” of spices: You definitely know they’re there. THE BUTTERMILK We use it not just in the batter but also to soak the grated carrots, which softens them. (Bonus: It helps set their color, too.) THE…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 170. Like you, I believe the only thing as fun as food is travel. It’s why I comb Chowhound boards at 3 a.m. for secret street food. It’s why I refuse to order room service—because, duh, I didn’t fly halfway around the world for a club sandwich. And it’s why I recently spent a year traveling with my boyfriend in 17 countries throughout Asia and Australia. In 365 days of face stuffing, we tucked into thousands of meals, the lion’s share of which were incredible (and we didn’t get sick once!). But you don’t have to travel for a full year, or even close to that, to get more out of your gastronomic adventuring. Let our journey…

*And, yes, they know it LIKE PARIS, San Francisco is one of those food cities that’s worth returning to over and over—not just for the classics but for new energy, ideas, and memorable meals. With all due respect to New York, L.A., and, well, everywhere else in America, SF is winning right now in all sorts of (delicious) categories, from coffee to fine dining. —CHRISTINE MUHLKE 1 FEMALE CHEFS ⋆ Gastro girl power is in full effect these days (we heart Cherry Bombe), but female chefs have been killing it in SF for decades. These days, Dominique Crenn of Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn is showing the boys how it’s done. Her recently opened Petit Crenn is an elegantly cozy dinner party, where the lush seafood and vegetable menu is served family-style.…

A year ago, my wife had an idea. “What if we flew to Pennsylvania and surprised Yankee for Mother’s Day?” Yankee would be Simone’s grandmother, Margaret Shubuck. Ninety-two years old at the time, still living in the former coal-mining community of Brenizer, Pennsylvania, an hour from Pittsburgh. Same yellow house she had called home since the 1940s—directly across the street from where Simone and her sister grew up. Yankee was slowing down, but she wasn’t the type to give in. She was of the generation that, if she’s walking out of the house, she’s putting a look together—hair, makeup, jewelry, heels. And if you planned a visit, she would go all out in her fluorescent-lit, linoleum-floored kitchen. As her cousin Helen said recently, “It’s just what we do in these…

1 Detroit Style This rectangular pie is most notable for its streaks of sauce across the top and a glorious edge of almostcaramelized cheese. The crust is thick yet airy, and toppings are often tucked under the cheese. As the style has migrated (see Brown Dog Pizza in Telluride, CO), toppings are moving above the cheese and getting fancier (fig preserves?!). 2 Neo-Neapolitan Authentic wood-oven Neapolitan has been the pizza story of the decade. Now places like Lovely’s Fifty Fifty in Portland, OR, are rebelling against the ultra-Italian ingredient list to stay local and countering Neapolitan’s minimalism with toppings like pickled grapes and Gouda at Brooklyn’s Paulie Gee’s. 3 Grandma Style A close cousin to the better-known Sicilian pie (and a relative of the Detroit). Like Sicilian, it’s cooked in…

From Mexico, with Love MISCELÁ NEA, NEW YORK CITY When Guillaume Guevara wanted authentic queso oaxaca, masa flour for tortillas, or excellent salsa, he often found himself traveling to the outer edges of Queens or Brooklyn—or even back to Mexico City where he grew up. That’s what inspired him to open Miscelánea in the East Village. Over the course of two years, he made dozens of trips home, then decided which products to stock up North. The results range from the high-end— artisanal mole poblano and a clay beauty mask from Tulum—to the candies, sodas, and dried fruits from the misceláneas (delis, in Spanish) of his youth. Manuel Recio’s Pick Jose Gourmet baby squid in ragout “In Spain, they eat them with vermouth or a beer. You can incorporate them…

Talk show hosts and writers of diet books always seem to be screeching about two things: Americans eat too much! And they don’t eat enough vegetables! As a lover of both overeating and vegetables, I try to be realistic. We’re not going to solve all of the country’s problems at once, you know? So here’s my solution: We have to overeat vegetables—a “rob Peter to pay Paul” approach to our nation’s food issues. We need salads that people will consume with the kind of mindless ecstasy usually reserved for hard-shell tacos blasted with nachocheese flavoring. We need bold, strong salads that are going to make America great again. These three are the perfect place to start. ✛ CRUDITÉS SHOULDN’T BE DELICATE Multicolor carrots, thinly sliced fennel, and yellow wax beans…

AS THE RESTAURANT critic for LA Weekly, there are three things I know for certain: (1) L.A. is arguably the most interesting place to eat in America right now; (2) much of our most remarkable dining happens in places that are hard to infiltrate and understand—even for those of us who live here; and (3) this is particularly true of the San Gabriel Valley (the SGV), the 284-mile swath of land that lies to the east of the city and holds the most thrilling international eating in America. In neighborhoods like Alhambra and San Gabriel, you can taste the many advantages of having one of the largest Chinese communities outside of China. And while Chinese food (hand-pulled noodles! fiery hot pots! dumplings galore!) and culture dominate much of the landscape,…

LA COCINA DE MARIA ⋆ The sandwich alone is worth the trip to this five-table restaurant in the western suburbs. Chef-owner Tony Schmidt grew up in the Guerrero state, and his wife, the namesake Maria, is from Mexico City, which accounts for the menu’s array of antojitos, i.e., “little cravings.” Among them is her timetested family recipe for pambazo, a not-so-little torta filled with potatoes and crumbled chorizo, the whole of which is basted in salsa, then griddled until it’s got a lightly crisp finish. Pambazos with Potatoes and Chorizo 4 SERVINGS It’s easy to re-create almost everything about La Cocina de Maria’s pressed sandwich, with one exception: the bread. To learn about the best substitute, see Prep School, page 167. 4 dried guajillo chiles, seeds removed, torn into 1" pieces…

TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp.!12–16 ALIMENTO 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A.; 323-928-2888; alimentola.com BOKA 1729 N. Halsted St., Chicago; 312-337-6070; bokachicago.com JALEO For locations, go to jaleo.com THE MOMENT p.!22 BROWN DOG PIZZA 110 E. Colorado Ave., Telluride, CO; 970-728-8046; browndogpizza.com LOVELY’S FIFTY FIFTY 4039 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR; 503-281-4060; lovelysfiftyfifty.wordpress.com MARGOT’S PIZZA 919 Fulton St., Brooklyn; margotspizza.com PAULIE GEE’S 60 Greenpoint Ave., Brooklyn; 347-987-3747; pauliegee.com VIA 313 6705 Hwy. 290, Austin; 512-584-8084; via313.com COOK LIKE A PRO p.!32 BOILER ROOM 108 W. North St., Kinston, NC; 252-208-2433; boilerroomoysterbar.com THE BONNIE 29-12 23rd Ave., Astoria, NY; 718-274-2105; thebonnie.com MOTT ST 1401 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago; 773-687-9977; mottstreetchicago.com TALK SHOP pp.!40–44 CONSERVA 1720 NW Lovejoy St. No. 108, Portland, OR; 503-830-7086; conservashop.com HONEYCOMB GROCER 1309 Fifth St. NE, Washington, D.C.; honeycombgrocer.com…

There’s no rule that says plasticware has to be boring. We’ve taken a shine to these gold guys. 1 Choose Your Spot Wisely Location is the foundation of your picnic—literally but also figuratively. Do you want to eat in the shade? Yes, you do. The sun is pleasant, but sweat is not. Do you need a flat bed of grass to spread your blanket on? Not necessarily. A rock formation (one that doubles as seats and tables) works, too. Will you enjoy the view as much as the food? You’d better. You can bring the most delicious meal, but if you’re not in the right spot, you may as well stay indoors. —Alex Delany ⋆ Beach Picnics Need Tables Doing this on the beach? Bring a folding table. A blanket…

These dim sum–style Shrimp Toasts make a surprisingly simple—and utterly addictive—at-home snack. With this method, you don’t even need a deep fryer to pull them off. Pulse 10 oz. of shrimp, peeled, deveined, 2 Tbsp. hot chili paste (such as sambal oelek), 2 tsp. fish sauce, 2 tsp. finely grated lemongrass, and 1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger in a food processor until smooth. Season with salt and pulse again to combine. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl. Separate green and white parts from 2 scallions and thinly slice both. Stir scallion whites into shrimp mixture. Place ¼ cup white sesame seeds on a plate. Spread shrimp mixture over four ¼"-thick slices white bread, crusts removed, extending all the way to edges. Press bread, shrimp side down, into sesame seeds…

The first thing I do when I arrive in Mexico City is hit the nearest taco stand and order dos tacos de carnitas, por favor. This isn’t just any slow-cooked pork; it’s pork shoulder slowly simmered—no, confited—in rendered fat until the meat is practically falling apart, then fried into crisp golden bits known as carnitas (“little meats”). As much as I love that first bite off a paper plate on the sidewalk, tacos de carnitas are even more special in my home kitchen. After all, carnitas are made to serve a crowd—whether that’s a line stretching down the block or a group of hungry friends gathering around a big ol’ pot of just-fried pork, clamoring for more tortillas. Braising the carnitas is a pretty hands-off process, which gives you time…

MY INFATUATION with Renee Erickson started in 2001, when I lined up for the now-legendary brunch of crab cakes and rosé at Seattle’s Boat Street Kitchen. In the 15 years since that long, boozy afternoon, the chef and her growing family of restaurants— six and counting—have made me president of the Everything Renee Erickson Does Is Awesome Fan Club. Judging from the crowds at every spot, I’m hardly the only member. Erickson has singlehandedly made her hometown one of the most exciting places to eat in the country while becoming one of those chefs, like Chang and Batali before her, whose distinct design sense and cooking style, ahem, shall we say, inspire others. (Just consider the breezy nautically themed spaces, the European country cooking, and the smartly drawn menus and…

AT EXACTLY 11:26 A.M. on my first day in Philadelphia, it dawned on me what kind of trip I had signed on for. My colleague Amiel (see his notes, right) and I had just polished off breakfast at the recently opened Hungry Pigeon when we dipped into 12 Steps Down, a South Philly neighborhood tavern where Amiel used to cook. Waiting for us was his friend, Tony 2.0. { 1 } Tony already had a Bloody Mary in hand and an American Spirit going. Did you know that you can still smoke in some bars in Philly? Yeah, neither did I. But 12 Steps was just a pit stop—the key, I learned, to any successful food crawl. And over the next 32 hours, Amiel and I would hit up nearly…

“PICK OUT WHICHEVER mug you like from the piebrary.” The woman behind the bakery counter gestured toward a black hutch. I scoped out the eclectic collection of mugs and chose one emblazoned with the logo of the National Organization for Women. I hadn’t even eaten, and I already loved this place. Lisa Ludwinski opened Sister Pie just about a year ago in a former beauty salon in Detroit’s West Village neighborhood. Her grandmothers grew up in Detroit proper (Ludwinski grew up in the suburbs), and after working for a year at Momofuku Milk Bar in New York City, she knew it was time to go home. She started selling her pies at markets, and the community rallied behind her sweet-salty chess version— and her palpable energy, which she channeled into…

There’s nothing Anthony Bourdain won’t eat—still-beating cobra heart in Ho Chi Minh City, seal eyeballs in Quebec— but there’s one place you won’t see him eating: on a plane. “If you want to be the most despised person in the cabin,” says the host of CNN’s Parts Unknown, “take some good barbecue on so that everybody in the plane smells it.” He should know. Before Bourdain became a pro traveler (he spent 200 days on the road this year filming the show, whose seventh season is airing now), he was just a guy who wanted to make the most of his food-centric vacations. And so once, flying home from Kansas City, he took some Joe’s Bar-B-Que on the plane. “The look of pure loathing on everyone’s faces as I gnawed…