Innholdsfortegnelse for Aug-14 i Bon Appetit

THE HEAT IS OFF THERE ARE MORE THAN 40 RECIPES in this issue of Bon Appétit. Chances are, I won’t cook a single one of them. I mean, no disrespect to the BA Test Kitchen, but it’s August. It’s that one month when everything at the market is so lush, so fruitastically fresh that all you need is a box of sea salt, a bottle of quality olive oil, and the good sense not to mess with anything too much. You might say I’m being lazy, but isn’t that what summer is about? Not cranking up the oven, not stressing out about what to cook to impress your guests? Last August, my wife and I settled into a rental house Last August, my wife and I settled into a rental…

From Ear to Ear Grilled and slathered in miso butter, fried in fritters, or tossed with a mess of herbs—what can’t you do with corn? GRILLED CORN WITH MISO BUTTER “Coating sweet grilled corn with miso butter brings nutty flavor to a classic.” —Brad Leone, test kitchen manager Mix 4 Tbsp. room-temperature unsalted butter and 1 Tbsp. miso in a small bowl. Rub 4 husked ears of corn with 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil; season with salt. Grill over mediumhigh heat, turning often, until lightly charred and tender, about 5 minutes. Spread corn with miso butter and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. 4 servings CORN-JALAPEÑO FRITTERS “Never met a fritter I didn’t like, and I love this one.” —Allie Lewis Clapp, food editor Pulse 2 beaten large eggs, ¼ cup all-purpose…

Everything you need to eat, drink, buy, and know this month Find this and other wisdom in the forthcoming compendium The Chef Says ($15), edited by the owners of Kitchen Arts & Letters in NYC. Like chia seeds? It’s time you got familiar with peppery nigellas, which we’re seeing in everything from lavash crackers to pumpernickel bread. THANK YOU, DUTCH DESIGN (Jansen+co, specifically) for these modern, not-too-twee ceramic cake stands. $70; neo-utility.com Sorry, milk shakes: Malt is seeing other dishes. Catch him red-handed in the... Malted wafle (pictured) with fried chicken at Roux in Seattle Malted ice milk at Better Half in Atlanta Malted butter at High Street on Market in Philadelphia GIN-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB Now this is a subscription service we can get behind. Sign up and every 30 days…

WHEN THE TOPIC OF FISH TACOS came up in a staf meeting, you would have thought we were talking about Obamacare, not a recipe. Opinions were strong, tempers flared. People argued about grilled versus fried, and what, exactly, belongs in the batter (is a bouillon cube the secret?). We listened, we tested, and then we came up with this, what we’ll humbly call the perfect fish tacos: crispy, lightas-air fried fish, balanced by a creamy slaw and fiery, cooling, and crunchy fixings. Consider the debate over. PERFECT FISH TACOS WHAT YOU’LL NEED 8 SERVINGS FISH 2 lb. skinless red snapper or other mild white fish fillets 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup white rice flour 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 cups club soda Vegetable oil (for frying; about 8 cups)…

If I cave to this glob of Époisses, any hopes of pasta for dinner are out the window. It’ll be steamed fish and vegetables roasted without oil—again. But what if I dip into my weekly allotment of cheats? No, I have unbreakable dinner plans on Friday night, to which I’ve already assigned my week’s worth of ingestible fun. This is the neurotic, humiliating dialogue that runs through my head these days. I’m getting married this summer, and because I’m afraid of commemorating my current shape in wedding photos, I signed up for a weight-loss program three months ago. The program—Weight Watchers, if you’re wondering—assigns a point value to each morsel of food I admit to eating. My fiancée joined with me, mostly out of solidarity. Within weeks, she had shed…

PIONEER WOMEN Opposite page: “We were frustrated being in windowless Brooklyn studios,” says artist Francesca DiMattio, far left. So she and her husband, artist Garth Weiser, bought a ranch house near Hillsdale and spray-painted it silver. Lured by what she describes as “the magic and the history” of Hudson, musician Melissa Auf der Maur (shown with daughter River, near left) transformed a factory into the arts center Basilica Hudson. Henry Hudson sailed past here in 1609. But lately, young creatives eager for (affordable) space and time have been making this historically layered hamlet two hours from Manhattan home. High-end antiques and design stores on Warren Street have been joined by restaurants whose chefs were lured from four-star Manhattan restaurants by the incredible Hudson Valley produce. And now you can find…

BIG SHOTS “I love tequila: Casamigos, Patrón, Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia, Milagro...and every other brand.” WHEN HE’S NOT DRINKING TEQUILA “I had steak the other night, but I do try to follow a healthy diet routine. I prefer organic and gluten-free.” Adam Levine Judging by the fancy, limited-edition bottles lining Adam Levine’s minibar, it’s safe to say the Maroon 5 frontman and budding actor knows a thing or two about quality tequila. He doesn’t have a favorite, though—at least not since his 35th birthday last March. “My house is full of so many kinds of tequila right now,” says the coach of The Voice and co-star of this summer’s Begin Again with Mark Rufalo. “It seems that’s all I got for birthday presents.” As discerning as he is…

READERS’ FAVORITE RESTAURANT RECIPES RED CURRY MUSSELS 4 servings You can also make this dish with littleneck or cherrystone clams instead of mussels. 1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes ½ cup dry white wine 1 Tbsp. Thai red curry paste 4 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil, divided ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 carrot, peeled, julienned 1 celery stalk, thinly sliced on a diagonal Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 lb. mussels, scrubbed, debearded 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Toasted country-style bread (for serving) Bring coconut milk, tomatoes, wine, curry paste, and 2 Tbsp. basil to a boil in a Dutch oven or other large pot, stirring to incorporate curry paste. Reduce heat and add onion, carrot, and celery; season with salt and pepper. Bring…

Kevin Hart Want to look as cut as an Oscar statue while still scarfing cheesesteaks? Talk to the motormouthed star of Think Like a Man Too You can invite three people over for dinner, dead or alive. Who are they? “Richard Pryor, Eddie Murphy, Bill Cosby.” What are you serving? “Baked chicken, macaroni and cheese, greens, stufing, and mashed potatoes with ‘flair.’” What kind of flair? “Sautéed onions with seasoned salt.” Finish this sentence: “My relationship with food is…” “On and of. I’m a health nut, but when I eat I go hard. I’m a Bufalo wing magnet, a sandwich fanatic, a cheesesteak guy. But I’ll only get a cheesesteak in Philadelphia. No one else does it right.” You’re a comedian. What’s on your rider? “Fried chicken. I know that’s…

As children of the ’80s, we didn’t have the most ideal exposure to seafood. It consisted mostly of Martini glasses filled with flaccid shrimp at our parents’ cocktail parties; Filet-O-Fish sandwiches, which our dads ordered from McDonald’s when they were trying to be “healthy”; and dreaded trips to the fish market, which smelled an awful lot like low tide. There, our mothers would order frozen flounder while we’d pinch our noses: People actually eat this stuff? Now, thanks to better access to fresh fish and a few clever maneuvers, our children are more evolved about seafood than we were. Meaning: They actually like it. Here, our strategies for getting our kids (and yours) to appreciate fish. 1 WORK FISH INTO A VACATION We always have better luck introducing the girls…

THE MOST SENSIBLE WAY to eat the frst peaches of summer is leaning over the kitchen sink or sitting outside on the grass. When the sweet, sticky juice runs down your chin and forearms, it won’t matter. In this frst fush of stone fruit, we take it the way nature delivers it. Most of the country’s stone fruit is grown in California’s Central Valley, where the hot climate is paradise for peaches. The supermarket industry prefers to buy peaches with an appealing rosy color, but we quickly learned on a trip to meet two of California’s best fruit farmers, Al Courchesne and Ron Mansfeld, of Frog Hollow Farm and Goldbud Farms, respectively, that many of the best peaches have golden yellow skins with only a blush of red. (They also…

steam ON THE GRILL This technique of steaming fish in a covered roasting pan on the grill works for many reasons: It’s a gentler method that gives you more control over the delicate flesh; you never have to flip it, so it stays intact; and if you treat your grill as a giant heat source, you can just as easily cook several fish at a time. Black sea bass works great, or try this with small red snapper, branzino, or striped bass. CRUS YOUR TOMATOES In the time it takes to bring a pot of water to a boil and cook perfectly al dente pasta, this four-ingredient tomato sauce will be ready to be tossed through. Small to medium tomatoes work best: Heat them in chile-laced olive oil until their…

Watching Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi cook together is like seeing the Rolling Stones in concert. The partners are a finely tuned machine afer 12 years behind the London delis and restaurants that have piqued the world’s palate with their Eastern Mediterranean favors. They have seduced customers with bounteous platters of vegetable-forward salads and that now-iconic roasted eggplant jeweled with pomegranate and za’atar. But seeing them build dishes and rif of of one another’s ideas—even the way they work with their hands—is to witness the magic that has made them so successful. These are men who can make food “smile,” to borrow a term frequently used in their company. It can be said without envy that the ultramodern kitchen in Ottolenghi’s London townhouse—with its dramatic 1960s Danish light fixture, silent…

I like a fullbodied red wine as much as the next red-blooded American—just not in August. In this heat, I’d rather chill a good Beaujolais alongside my beers. And you know what? That “lightweight” red with the flowery label goes with a grilled steak just fine, its acid cutting through fat like a chain saw. Mind you, I’m not into that nouveau fluf that invades our bistros every November; I’m talking about rea Beaujolais—the underappreciated Gamay grape, rooted in granite soil—from these cru areas in France: Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Saint-Amour, Côte de Brouilly, Morgon, Fleurie, Juliénas, Moulin-à-Vent, and Régnié. I’d say that committing those names to memory is the only heavy lifting you need to do this month.…

1 DARK CHOCOLATE CACAO NIB Carmela Ice Cream Artisan Creamery, Los Angeles $9 per pint; carmela icecream.com 2 CARROT HABANERO PEPPER Steve’s Ice Cream, New York City $10 per pint; stevesicecream.com 3 BANANA PUDDING Toscanini’s Ice Cream, Cambridge, MA $6.50 per pint; tosci.com 4 EUREKA LEMON & MARIONBERRIES McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, Santa Barbara, $10 per pint; mcconnells.com 5 PISTACHIO HONEY RICOTTA High Road Craft Ice Cream & Sorbet, Atlanta $8 per pint; highroadcraft.com 6 CARDAMOM Big Dipper Ice Cream, Missoula, MT $5 per pint; bigdipperice cream.com 7 SALTED CARAMEL SWIRL WITH CURRIED NUTS Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream, New York City $8.50 per pint; vanleeuwen icecream.com 8 KAFFIR LIME GELATO Il Laboratorio del Gelato, New York City $10.50 for 20 oz.; laboratorio delgelato.com 9 TOMATO WATER OLIVE OIL SHERBET…

FAST, EASY, FRESH YOU SAY TOMATO, WE SAY DINNER When tomatoes are at their best—like this month—they’re always on our table. Try them in a simple soup or an elegant pasta Pappa al Pomodoro ACTIVE 1 HOUR TOTAL 1 HOUR 4 SERVINGS The soup equivalent of dipping your bread into tomato sauce, this rustic dish is summer’s comfort food. 2 lb. tomatoes, cored, quartered 2 garlic cloves, smashed ½ tsp. fennel seeds 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 sprigs basil ¼ loaf country-style bread, crust removed, torn into 2" pieces (about 1 ½ cups), divided Preheat oven to 450°. Toss tomatoes, garlic, fennel seeds, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large baking dish; season with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the…

WHEN IT COMES TO RESTAURANTS, Boston may not possess the quirky charm of its Portland neighbor to the north or the numbers of its Yankees-loving rival to the south. This is, however, a good thing—we swear. Small enough to conquer in a weekend but sizable enough to support all the modern raw bars, indie coffee shops, and cutting-edge craf breweries that continue to open, the history-flled city sports a modern, laid-back cool that’s very much its own. The best time to take it all in? That would be right about now, while patio season is still in full swing, the Boston Common is lush and green, and Bostonians—North Face feeces still safely stowed in the closet—are at their most agreeable. Treat this as your manual for eating your way through…

GENTL & HYERS Shaved Honeydew, Fennel, and Olive Salad 4 SERVINGS Dress just before serving so that the fennel will still be crunchy and the melon retains its juices. 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 1/2½ lb. honeydew melon, rind and seeds removed, shaved on a mandoline ½ fennel bulb, shaved on a mandoline, plus 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fennel fronds ¼ cup brined green olives, such as Castelvetrano, pitted, very coarsely chopped Whisk orange juice, lemon juice, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add melon, shaved fennel, and olives to vinaigrette and toss to coat. Top salad with…

ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms Mix together 6 oz. ricotta, 2 oz. grated mozzarella, and 2 Tbsp. chopped chives; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a piping bag or resealable plastic bag (cut tip). Pipe into 8 squash blossoms, stamens removed. Place 1 cup plain dry breadcrumbs in a baking dish. Lightly beat 2 large eggs in another dish. Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Dip blossoms in egg, then breadcrumbs. Cook, turning once, until golden, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels; season with salt. 4 servings PRO TIPS Use the little bit of stem as a handle as you dip into the egg. Roll the blossoms gently in the breadcrumbs. When they’re golden, flip to crisp the underside. YOU’D BUTTER BELIEVE IT You…