Innholdsfortegnelse for Jul-14 i Bon Appetit

A YEAR AND A HALF AGO, my friend Sasha started dating this fellow Luis Alvarez y Alvarez. Bushy salt-and-pepper Castro beard, slickedback hair, barrel-chested like Hemingway, born and raised in Mexico City, and a film editor by trade. He quickly became the most worldly, fun-loving guy in our circle of friends. He also knows how to cook. Luis and I often talked about getting together to grill the kind of food he grew up eating. I wanted him to help me embrace the spirit of this issue’s theme and break out of my grilling routine—steak, ribs, steak, ribs, burgers. I sent what I thought was a simple enough e-mail: “What might we grill?” Four hundred and six words later, I had my answer. “Una carne asada,” Luis replied. “That’s how…

The former star of Community and host of The Soup is tall and good-looking and seriously knows how to grill. Jealous much? We hear you’re a grilling man. Gas or charcoal? “Gas. I grew up with charcoal grills, but I don’t know how to use one.” Who’s your butcher? “McCall’s Meat and Fish Co. in Los Feliz [in L.A.]. I have a text relationship where the guy wants to know how things come out. He wants pictures.” Favorite cut of meat. “A bone-in rib eye or filet. Once in a while I’ll get Japanese Wagyu, which is like nothing in this world.” And vegetables? “We grill everything from green beans to eggplant. I like a good char, though I know it’s going to kill me.” Got an opinion on marinades…

You know those heavy, hypermasculine wood-handled knives your dad would use to saw through a t-bone? these aren’t those 1 SCHMIDT BROS. CARBON6 STEAK KNIFE $90 for four; crateandbarrel.com 2 SHASTRA STEAK KNIFE $9,150 for eight; bladesofthegods.com 3 LA COTE PAKKA WOOD STEAK KNIFE $100 for six; costco.com 4 F. A. PORSCHE CHROMA TYPE 301 STEAK KNIFE $199 for four; amazon.com 5 BERTI VALDICHIANA STEAK KNIFE $635 for four; didriks.com 6 FLUORESCENT TABLE KNIFE $830 for six; forge-de-laguioleusa.com for stores 7 MORIAH COWLES STEAK KNIFE $1,000 for four; orchardsteel.com…

I DON’T BELIEVE IN MAGIC, but I believe in sausage. Grind cheap, less popular meat, season the heck out of it, pack it into a tube, and voilà—links way more delicious and versatile than the sum of their parts. I’ve made sausage a few times, but my experiments never compared to the wizardry at the Meat Hook. So I spent time at the shop, nerding out about protein reactions, talking ratios, and trying not to make dirty jokes (not easy). I learned that once you master the fundamentals, you can make almost any sausage, from this spicy Italian to an unexpectedly awesome lamb masala to whatever meat-and-seasoning combo you dream up. SPICY ITALIAN SAUSAGE WHAT YOU’LL NEED MAKES 12–14 LINKS; ABOUT 4 LB. 1 4-lb. skinless, boneless pork shoulder (Boston…

SUNDAY IS GRILLING DAY IN LEBANON, where I grew up. It didn’t matter if people lived in the country or the city: If they had a sliver of outside space, they set up their manqal (a low rectangular grill) and grilled chunks of lamb threaded onto skewers with pieces of tail fat in between, or spatchcocked chicken or quail. In my travels throughout the Middle East, I’ve recognized plenty of common ingredients and dishes—nutty tahini, tart sumac, gently spicy Aleppo pepper—as well as dishes, from cooling yogurt dips to takes on tabbouleh. What I love most about Middle Eastern food is how it combines fresh and heady flavors with, say, tangy lemon juice, sweet-sour pomegranate molasses, or fragrant spice mixtures. Grilling is the most widely shared culinary technique throughout the…

FOR ALL DRINKS Head to the farmers’ market for peak-season fruit. Freeze the fruit in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet until solid. Purée ingredients in a blender until smooth and very thick. Divide among glasses and serve. 4 servings BERRIES AND RUM 2 cups blackberries, frozen + 1½ cups raspberries, frozen + 6 oz. light rum + 4 oz. simple syrup + 1½ oz. fresh lime juice + 2 cups ice OPTIONAL GARNISH: Blackberries STRAWBERRIES AND VODKA 3 cups halved hulled strawberries, frozen + 6 oz. vodka + 4 oz. simple syrup + 1½ oz. fresh lime juice + 2 cups ice OPTIONAL GARNISH: Tarragon sprigs COLD FACTS THE DRIER THE ICE, THE BETTER Melting ice makes for a watery cocktail. NO NEED TO UPGRADE YOUR BLENDER…

The only thing more exciting than a slushy, fruity cocktail is an adorable straw to slurp it through. This paper version satisfies our compostable, recyclable, earthconscious inclinations, plus—get a load of those colors! Stock up and keep a big jar of them on your kitchen counter; they’ll make every smoothie, float, shake, icy blended drink, coffee shakerato, and tall glass of lemonade this summer taste that much better. We promise. —CARLA LALLI MUSIC SO SUZE ME FROM P. 76 This is the Summer of Suze. I used to smuggle the slightly bitter aperitif back from France, but it’s now available stateside. Order a Suze and soda on the rocks with orange—you’ll impress your bartender, earn envious glances from curious drinkers, and whet your appetite. Drink up! —ANDREW KNOWLTON THE RICE…

READERS’ FAVORITE RESTAURANT RECIPES DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I WILL BE YOUR READER FOREVER IF YOU RUN THE RECIPE FOR THE GREEN GAZPACHO FROM PUBLIC KITCHEN AND BAR AT THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT IN LOS ANGELES. —LINDA HUBERT, Eureka, MO GREEN GAZPACHO 6 SERVINGS Because flavors become muted in cold dishes, season this soup as you go and taste again after chilling. ¼ cup white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1½ cups whole-milk plain Greek yogurt, divided ½ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 oz. ciabatta or country-style bread, crust removed, bread torn into 1" pieces (about 2½ cups) 1 medium English hothouse cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, cut into large pieces 1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped 4 large tomatillos (about 12 oz.), husked, quartered 4 scallions,…

The only thing more awesome than an icecold beer? An ice-cold beer cocktail. Here, four summery ideas for your next backyard barbecue VITAMIN C BREW “Tastes like a boozy Orangina; I could drink ’em all day long.” —Claire Saffitz, assistant food editor Combine 2 oz. fresh orange juice and 1 oz. gin in a pint glass filled with ice. Top off with Americanstyle lager (such as Miller High Life). Garnish with an orange wheel. Makes 1 APEROL MIST “A more flavorful, slightly stronger version of an Aperol Spritz. Who could be mad at that?” —Alison Roman, senior associate food editor Combine 1 oz. Aperol and 1 oz. fresh lemon juice in a pint glass filled with ice. Top off with Hefeweizenstyle Belgian beer (such as Hoegaarden). Garnish with a lemon…

Everything you need to eat, drink, buy, and do this month "STUFFED WITH BUTTER. BATTERED. FRIED. WHAT A COUNTRY!” Menu excerpt from Kachka, the Mission Chinese of Russian food, in Portland, OR. THREE’S ATREND Coffee gets weird 1. blue bottle‘s new orleans iced coffee now comes in a grown-up milk carton. $4; at Whole Foods. 2. in L.a., coffee is used to dye hemp-blend T-shirts. $58; westerlind.com. 3. Craftsman and Wolves’s coffee jam is the best thing to happen to bread since slicing. $12; craftsman-wolves.com Nothing against Hebrew Nationals, but this is what you should be ordering at this season’s ball games: Rib tips from Butcher & the Boar (Twins’ Target Field, Minneapolis). Brisket from Killen’s Texas Smokehouse (Astros’ Minute Maid Park, Houston). Meatball sliders from Pat LaFrieda’s Chop House…

FOR DECADES, VISITING MAINE meant a predictable diet of lobsters and lighthouses. What’s happening today up and down the coast goes way beyond that. Artisans and farmers have taken the local-everything model and run with it, resulting in a place like nowhere else. It’s a mix of old and new, native and “from away.” It’s about seafood that makes chefs giddy. It’s a Portland restaurant scene that crushes tasting menus and Japanese bar food. It’s roadside markets piled with candy-sweet strawberries and foraged black trumpet mushrooms. It’s islands with inns that nail the perfect mix of rustic and sophisticated. Add in some of the best brewers on the planet, and the state’s ubiquitous slogan, “The way life should be,” starts to sound pretty legit. 1 Slurp a (Few) Dozen Oysters…

1. HOT, HOT HEAT white binchotan charcoal burns hot and clean. $13/1 lb.; korin.com. coconutshell discs provide an eco-friendly burn. Koko charcoal, $13/4.5 lb.; afireinc.com 2. CIty GRILL an earthenware Japanese shichirin is made for those who want to grill but lack space. Lolo charcoal stove, $125; global.rakuten.com/en/store/lala-nature 3. PRo tooLS Laguiole’s elegant grilling set (knife, fork, spatula, tongs), made of swedish steel, comes in a slick leather case. Laguiole BBQ Tool Set, $600; williams-sonoma.com 4. CLay feat place this comal on your grill and you’re all set to toast spices, blister chiles, and grill the best tortillas you’ve ever had. Chamba comal, $45; mytoque.com 5. StICK to It Flat blades keep turkish-style koubideh in place. Koubideh skewers, $15 for 4; kalamala.com. thinner sticks handle all that’s fit to shish.…

GRILLED ZUCCHINI AND LEEKS WITH WALNUTS AND HERBS 4 SERVINGS We like the texture of the leeks and zucchini when left al dente—if grilled too long, they’ll both go floppy. 1/3 cup walnuts 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 large leeks, white and pale-green parts only, halved lengthwise with some root attached 2 large zucchini (about 1 lb.), halved lengthwise 1/2 cup (lightly packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves with tender stems Prepare grill for medium-high heat. Toast walnuts in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Chop very coarsely. Toss warm walnuts with garlic, lemon juice, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl; season with salt and…

When the Spotted Pig opened its doors in New York City’s West Village in 2004, coowner Ken Friedman made one big mistake: He put Beamish on tap instead of Guinness. “It was Bono who said to me, ‘Are you f%^&ing nuts?!’ ” recalls the restaurateur. “I said to him, ‘Well, I thought we’d be a little alternative.’ And he was like, ‘Not when it comes to Guinness. You’ve gotta have Guinness.’ ” Bono and Friedman have been friends since 1981, when the latter, a concert promoter at the time, booked a then-unknown band called U2 to play in San Francisco. When Friedman later decided to enter the restaurant business, Bono was one of his first customers. In the decade since, Bono has remained one of the gastropub’s most loyal fans…

There are fragrant, fresh tomatoes; there are rich, concentrated tomato sauces; and then—somewhere deliciously in between—there are these blistered beauties. My mom deserves credit for the idea: To make her “burst” tomatoes, she’d roll cherry tomatoes around in a screaming-hot skillet until the skins split, exposing sweet, softened flesh. Turns out, her quick-cooking method translates seamlessly to the grill, where the tomatoes pick up smoky flavor and live-fire char. Toss them into pasta, or use them as a juicy base for salads and sides that beg to be paired with other grilled foods. For recipes, turn the page. —CARLA LALLI MUSIC IT ALL STARTS WITH A LITTLE FIRE To get your char on, drizzle 2 pints ripe cherry tomatoes with some olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Grill…

Forget Chips Charred beans and peas are my favorite snacks to serve at a backyard cookout. I’m talking hot-off-the-grill and cooked right in their pods with a little neutral oil and salt. (A grill basket stops runaways.) Sprinkle with a topping, and watch guests lose their minds. Edamame + Togarashi Green Beans + Horseradish Favas + Sumac TOPPING MY (WINE) BUCKET LIST With grilled seafood, all I want to drink is Galician wine from Spain. Here, a trio of regional grapes and bottles to try. ALBARIÑO Wines made from this grape are tangy, juicy, and aromatic. Santiago Ruiz O Rosal 2013, Rias Baixas; $23 GODELLO :h_[h WdZ ceh[ minerally than Albariño, though this bottle is zippy, with tropicalfruit undertones. Finca Os Cobatos 2013, Monterrei; $13 MENCÍA Even the local red…

This month, give shrimp and grits a makeover (we’re using fresh corn!), transform steak with a spiced vinaigrette, and throw together the simplest dessert of summer A VERY VERSATILE VINAIGRETTE This assertive dressing is great for the less-is-more summer months. It’s all you need on grain salads, steaks, and peak produce Toasted Spice Vinaigrette ACTIVE 5 MINUTES TOTAL 5 MINUTES 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds ¼ cup olive oil 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Toast coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Let cool, then chop. Whisk with oil, vinegar, and mustard in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. DO…

DAY BREAKS OVER the backyards of Brooklyn. The birds in the trees are tweeting the morning gossip. The sky is unblemished except for the faint but steady upward trickle of smoke puffing from the top drawer of an industrial filing cabinet standing, incongruously, among the flowerpots and planted herbs of my little urban garden. The displaced piece of office furniture is an improvised smoking chamber: a junky old cabinet I’d bought and hacked according to loosely described plans I’d found in various BBQ-curious corners of the Internet. The bottoms of the metal drawers have been ripped out and grill grates set in their place. On the racks are laid sides of salt-cured salmon; below, a tray of wood pellets slowly burns to ash, filling the drawers with fragrant cumulus clouds…

Saint Ceclia is surely smilling from above. More than a dozen musicians have gathered around a table in the courtyard of Austin’s Hotel Saint Cecilia, named for the patron saint of music and poetry. No one’s looked at a cell phone for hours. The food— platter after platter of grilled meats, jalapeño-flecked fingerling potatoes, and bacon-laced asparagus—hasn’t stopped coming around. Neither has the wine. By midnight, eight hours after the party started with sangria, the guitar that has been making its way around the table is passed to Caleb Followill, lead singer of Kings of Leon. “Not going to happen,” he says. He’s in town to headline the Austin City Limits music festival, where he and his bandmates will play for a crowd of 40,000, but by all accounts, Followill…

When it comes to live-fire cooking, Korean barbecue is just as essential as any of the offerings in Memphis, Austin, or Kansas City. We at BA have happily risked burning our knees on undermounted tabletop grills to consume large platters of charred, juicy meat and tender seafood wrapped in lettuce, not to mention eating our weight in kimchi and vegetable sides. Yet despite our love for Korean barbecue, we’ve always treated it like restaurant food— you know, something better left to the experts. This summer, things are going to be different. In an effort to bring home this dynamic cuisine, we embarked on a multicity tour, spending time in the kitchens of some of the most creative Korean-American chefs. They fired up their grills, guided us through their pantries, and…