Innholdsfortegnelse for May-14 i Bon Appetit

THE MOTHER LOAD What does Mom really want for Mother’s Day? Besides flowers, the matriarchs of BA reveal what’s topping their wish lists at bonappetit.com/mothersday. “If I don’t get tea in bed on Mother’s Day, heads are gonna roll. Ideally, one of the adorable children I created will let me choose my favorite from a stack of these cute Kusmi Tea tins (from $17; us.kusmitea.com).”—CARLA LALLI MUSIC, FOOD & FEATURES EDITOR; MOM OF LEO, 10, AND COSMO, 4 The Hashtag “What’s your airplane drink?” @bonappetit “Who doesn’t love the opportunity to just order ‘the red’?” @TaliaBaiocchi Talia Baiocchi, editor in chief, punchdrink.com “I always think Scotch is a safe bet.” @SeamusMullen Seamus Mullen, chef, Tertulia, NYC “If you’re talking business class, I do like my Port after dinner, and keep…

I’ve spent most of my adult life traveling to, from, and around Asia—partly for fun and partly as a travel writer. At every Chinese meal, I always crave one dish: pea shoots, a.k.a. dou miao in Mandarin. Tender and sweet, the leaves, stems, and tendrils of the pea plant are delicate enough to eat raw, yet retain springtime-evoking qualities when cooked. To prepare the shoots (or really any hardy spring green) for four, sauté 2 dried red chiles and 3 or 4 smashed garlic cloves in a glug of vegetable oil over medium-high heat until fragrant. Add ¾ lb. pea shoots and cook, tossing often, until the leaves barely wilt. Season with salt and you’ve got an easy dish so versatile it goes with any cuisine.—MATT GROSS…

1 TO START...: DECIDE WHAT’S FOR DINNER Food and wine do things to each other when paired together. Acid in wine breaks down fat; salt exaggerates a wine’s bitterness. Figure out what you’re eating first, then talk to the sommelier—it’ll help her make an informed recommendation. 2 FOCUS Now look for discernible “themes” on the list. Are there dozens of Burgundies and just three Italian bottles? Play to its strengths. The rest is clutter. 3 TALK PRICE This isn’t a job interview: Get the money question out of the way. Name your price, or discreetly point to a figure and say, “I’d like something in this range.” 4 SPEAK THEIR LANGUAGE You don’t need a PhD in wine vocabulary. Just consider the basic building blocks of wine and how they…

1 TRIO VASE A classic shape in miniature. $10 for set of three; cb2.com 2 KAHLER “BULBINO” VASE A quirky, organic silhouette and long neck make single stems really pop. $44 for set of two; shophorne.com 3 TOOTH AND NAIL STUDIO “NEON BUD” VASE A shot of color lightens up this stouter wheelthrown piece. $68; sunroomaustin.com 4 OJI MASANORI “JICON” VASE Tall shoulders, a small mouth, and a streamlined physique are the epitome of elegance. $45; mjolk.ca 5 WAPA STUDIO “ARTFUL DODGER VARIATIONS OBJECT N.2” VASE One thin slab of porcelain is folded to form this delicately ridged vessel. $44; wapa.etsy.com 6 KOSKI BUD VASE A textured finish gives this ceramic vase the look of mossy stone. $10; lovesac.com…

1 HOW TO INSTA-UPDATE FROM THE ROAD BA multimedia editor matt Duckor (@mattduckor) has posted nearly 3,000 photos to instagram, collecting some 22,000 followers in the process. Here, his no-nos for shooting while traveling. 1. Don’t Roam “Why add a pricey data package when you can set your phone to Airplane Mode and use free WiFi?” 2. Don’t Be Clichéd “Nobody wants to see your éclair next to the Eiffel Tower.” 3. Don’t Bomb Your Feed “Posting photos in rapid succession usually results in losing followers and receiving fewer likes.” 4. Don’t Die “When you can’t stop to charge your phone, use a Mophie Juice Pack ($80–$150; mophie.com). It’s a sleek, hard case that nets 100 percent extra battery life per charge.” 5. Don’t Just Shoot Food “The last thing…

PHILADELPHIA BY ANDREW KNOWLTON restaurant and drinks editor BECAUSE OF MY JOB, my life is essentially a bunch of Big Fat Weekends strung together. Sometimes I have one night in a city, maybe two, so I cram in as many restaurants as my stomach can handle. Here’s what I ate in Philly—and my strategy for fitting it all in. THURSDAY "Pace yourself," I said over Sherry and raw oysters at A.Bar, a sleek spot near the Hotel Palomar. My wife, Christina, knows the drill: several spots each night, lots of walking, and a ban on the words "I’m full." I showed her a list of 30 or so places to check out.1 She didn’t flinch. Our predinner dinner2 was at Little Nonna’s, the latest from chef Marcie Turney and Valerie…

URKIOLA. IT SOUNDS LIKE the name of the wicked stepmother in a disney film. Or a barren planet where darth Vader light-sabered obi-Wan kenobi. Urkiola, Urkiola, Urkiola—the word was charged with negative connotations. Mostly because at this moment it was killing me. Urkiola is a mountain range in the western Basque Country of Spain, a 40-minute drive from Bilbao. When seen from a car, its highest peak, Anboto—4,367 feet to the summit—is a limestone beauty ideal for a leisurely picnic. But when you’re seeing it from the seat of a bicycle after a long week of riding, it’s terrifying. And to think I’d planned this. I’m a professional (over-)eater, which means I’m never hungry. This is a particular problem when I travel abroad. Three days into a trip, away from…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN PUCKER PUNCH FROM P. 60 Vinegar doesn’t just add zing to vinaigrettes: Like a squeeze of lemon, it can also brighten rich dishes and help balance salty and sweet flavors. The key is knowing what kind to use for which occasion. Here’s what we’ve currently got in rotation on our countertop caddy.—DAWN PERRY 1 MALT Classic on fish and chips but pretty fantastic on any roasted or steamed potato. 2 WHITE WINE A splash will enliven tuna salad; or use it to season steamed mussels. 3 SHERRY Perks up a pot of cooked beans or tomatobased stews. 4 WHITE DISTILLED Our choice for extra-zesty pickles. (Heinz was awarded the Bon Appétit Seal of Approval for white vinegars.) 5 RED WINE…

BACK WHEN I WAS SINGLE, I wasn’t good at vacations. There was the occasional bachelor party, and maybe a golf weekend or two, but in terms of actual trips—you know, the kind with real hotels and countryside tours and all that?—I didn’t know where to begin. So one summer, when friends asked if I wanted to join them for a week in a seaside village in the South of France, my instinct told me to just go with it. And when I discovered that the town, Villefranche-sur-Mer, is where the Rolling Stones recorded Exile on Main St., well, I booked my ticket. As soon as I arrived, I wondered why I didn’t do this type of thing more often. The five of us shared two small apartments overlooking the harbor,…

Everyone at BA has an in-fight cocktail routine. What’s yours? "Vodka-soda with lime or a Bloody Mary.” Greatest food city on earth. "Florence. Trattoria Pandemonio serves this steak propped up with a piece of bread, and all the juice just drips down. It’s so massive, and the cut of meat is beautiful.” Most memorable meal while traveling. "the Cantonese brunch at the Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo. The dumplings are amazing, and everyone gets dolled up.” Typical room-service order. "Caesar salad with grilled chicken. Or a piping-hot minestrone. That’s one thing I get neurotic about: I need my soup to be crazy hot.” And for breakfast? "two eggs over easy with sliced avocado and turkey bacon.” One food everyone tells you to try, but you just can’t get up the nerve.…

We’re not so good at doing nothing. Take this morning, for example. Here we were, the first Sunday in weeks with not a birthday party, soccer tournament, or home-improvement project in sight. It was the kind of lazy day made for sleeping in and reorganizing the sock drawer. But as soon as the coffeepot had been cleaned, we were already getting antsy. “Put your shoes on, we’re going out.” Kids: “Where?” “Just trust us.” By now they know the routine. We are not make-it-up-aswe-go kind of people—at least not when there are kids in the mix. It’s not just Sundays at home, though. It’s also on vacation, where we are convinced that the key to successful family travel—like most things involving young children—is to have some structure. Some kind of…

× EXPLORE: The Next Culinary Mecca In the coming year, La Jeune Rue, chef antonin bonnet and investor cédric naudon’s ambitious project in paris’s 3rd arrondissement, will be the site of 20 restaurants, bars, and shops—all emphasizing sustainability. Up first: a korean street-food joint designed by Paola Navone and an ice cream shop from Vincent Darré. lajeunerue.com × VISIT: D.C.’s Tastiest Block For proof that our capital’s culinary scene is more than just power restaurants, grub-crawl your way through Derek Brown’s trio of new bars, occupying adjacent storefronts in the diverse shaw neighborhood. Start with broth-poached whelks at the seafood enclave eat the Rich (etrbar.com), hop over to mockingbird hill (drinkmoresherry.com) for a brief education in sherry and ham, and then wrap up the night with sweet bourbon balls at…

GET YOUR GREENS The markets are once again bursting with beautiful greens, and we’re working them (and all their vitamin K) into our diet every which way Skillet Bruschetta with Beans and Greens ACTIVE 25 MINUTES total 25 minutes 4 SERVINGS The weeknight, veggie-heavy, nothing-in-the-house-to-eat dinner. Top with a fried egg if you’re feeling peckish. 8 ¾"-thick slices crusty bread 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 15-oz. cans cannellini beans, rinsed 1 bunch kale or mustard greens, ribs removed, leaves torn into bite-size pieces ½ cup low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Brush bread on both sides with 4 Tbsp. oil…

THEY’RE SENDING ME TO VIETNAM! The assignment: Pick a spot, check out the markets and local cuisine, and learn to cook a few things. Report back, with photos. Yes, please. It’s been a long time since I’ve been to Southeast Asia. My interest in Asian cuisines—a very broad category—has only increased, but I feel as though I’m always winging it in the kitchen. I’ve eaten plenty of Vietnamese food in California and Paris restaurants, and can approximate certain flavors at home. But the idea of actually cooking in Vietnam is very attractive, especially if my mentor is a native cook (I’m picturing a grandmother). Started checking with friends for suggestions and contacts. Curling up with Vietnamese cookbooks. And guidebooks. NOV 11 Zoning in on where to go. North or south?…

The scene at Chris Fischer’s Beetlebung Farm, originally run by his grandfather. It’s now the main supplier of produce to his restaurant, less than a mile away. SPEND TIME WITH CHEF CHRIS FISCHER and you get the sense he’s maybe a little disappointed that people ever moved on from bows and arrows. The 34-year-old, who took over the kitchen at the Beach Plum Inn & Restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard about a year ago, believes that for food to taste good, it has to be fresh—like, still-flapping-on-the-plate fresh. “When you use the best ingredients, you can do less to them,” he says. “I can pretend I know what I’m doing.” Don’t be fooled by the modesty. Fischer, whose family has lived on Martha’s Vineyard for 12 generations and who still runs…

KYOTO KAISEKI “I spend half a day at the market, and then I eat at Gion Sasaki.” Alain Ducasse The most frequent of fliers, the French chef is in a new locale practically every other day, checking up on his 25 restaurants in nine countries. Wherever Ducasse may be, he makes time to explore. “I’m in love with the markets of the world,” he says. “It’s a photograph of a city, a culture.” On a recent trip to Beijing, he escaped his handlers with a translator and sneaked into a professional chefs’ bazaar. (“Now that’s a country that eats,” he says admiringly, “everything that moves.”) He’s also a global flea-market connoisseur, expanding his collection of vintage leather goods. (His proudest trophy? A ’70s buffalo leather jacket by cult designer Azzedine…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I HAD A BLISSFUL MEAL WITH MY HUSBAND AT ABIGAIL STREET IN CINCINNATI. I’D PAY GOOD MONEY FOR THE LAMB SLIDER RECIPE—JUST DON’T FORGET THE DATE KETCHUP.—ALLISON CARR, Cincinnati SPICED SLIDERS WITH DATE KETCHUP 4 SERVINGS To make your own baharat spice blend, mix one teaspoon each of ground coriander and cumin with half a teaspoon each of cinnamon and paprika. DATE KETCHUP 1 Tbsp. olive oil ½ small red onion, finely chopped 1 cup ketchup 1 cup Medjool dates, pitted, chopped ½ cup pale lager 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper SLIDERS AND ASSEMBLY ½ small red onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 lb. ground lamb 8 oz. ground beef ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 Tbsp.…

RADISHES WITH BURRATA “Spicy, vibrant watermelon radishes need little more than lemon and herbs to make magic with salty burrata.”—Alison Roman, senior associate food editor tear 8 oz. burrata into pieces (or use bocconcini) and place on a platter. Toss 2 thinly sliced watermelon radishes with 2 Tbsp. olive oil and 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Arrange radish mixture over burrata and drizzle with any remaining dressing. Top with chopped chives and finely grated lemon zest. 4 servings SAUTÉED RADISHES WITH BACON “the contrast of tender radish and crisp bacon is even better with a little cider vinegar.”—Brad Leone, test kitchen manager Cook 2 oz. chopped slab bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat until fat begins to render, about 3 minutes. Add ¾…

GO ASIAN Most NYC ramen joints are about the lines and the mystique. Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop is simply about the rye noodle. Our order: roasted garlic mazemen with egg and chili-garlic oil. GO AMERICAN Everyone gets a burger at Genuine Roadside. That’s fine. But the pro move is the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with celeriac-apple slaw and kicky sambal mayo. No frills, all thrills. GO HEALTHY The Clean Slate sandwich at Little Chef is epic: lentil hummus, quinoa, and pickled veg on a crisped naan, drizzled with yogurt and hot sauce, and finished with a flurry of sesame seeds and fresh herbs. GO ON BUSINESS Meeting a client? Head to the counter at Seamus Mullen’s El Colmado, tell the staff how hungry you are, and let them assemble the…

“Don’t play with your food.” Like all American children not raised by wolves, i was taught this at an early age. The French were not taught the same thing. And so it was during a trip to Normandy four years ago that I first laid eyes on what appeared to be a toy for cheese—a sort of spinning knife with a big wheel of dairy beneath it. The French call it a girolle; the rest of us call it a cheese curler. A friend of mine had just married a Frenchman, and his family was hosting the wedding reception in their beautiful 19th-century farmhouse. A bit linguistically challenged, I found myself staring across the room at an elderly French lady, her gray bun bobbing while she operated a strange instrument.…

WE HAVE A TRADITION HERE AT BA: The morning after a staff party, when we’re all feeling a little worse for wear, the test kitchen lays out a spread of bagels, cream cheese, and all the fixings. It gets us back on our game and gives us a chance to recount the previous night’s karaoke highlights, all without any actual cooking. This year, we swiped the menu for a Mother’s Day party (keeping things low-stress when you’re hosting Mom is always a good idea, right?). We asked the folks at San Francisco’s modern Jewish deli Wise Sons for a few ideas, like an easy, kicky horseradish schmear, to help impress. Turns out it’s time for some new traditions. Smoked Trout Salad ACTIVE 5 MINUTES TOTAL 5 MINUTES MAKES ABOUT 2…

"WHY NOT?" SAYS JODY WILLIAMS when asked why she, a New York City chef, would open a French restaurant in paris. This can-do attitude comes across in everything she touches, and it is why she has had such success. Williams opened her first venture, Buvette, in greenwich Village, in early 2011. She dubbed it a gastrothèque—a word she invented to describe both its informality and its delightfulness. The entire space is just 1,000 square feet, and guests squeeze behind tables pushed thisclose together. The chairs are tiny, the silverware is tiny, and the gallic fare is—you guessed it—tiny. In the morning, warm croissants come two to an order; in the evening, oxtails are braised and shredded of their bones, then piled onto diminutive slices of toast. The Buvette signature, if…

RENÉ REDZEPI is a busy man. So if the chef of Noma, the restaurant that put Scandinavia at the center of the chefworld map, finds time to pick up the phone while out foraging for some tasty bits of the Danish countryside, it’s because he’s got something he really wants to say. And if he then tells you about an obscure quasi-Danish island nation with the best seafood he’s ever had and a chef there he calls “a f%^&ing hero,” you start booking your tickets. That’s how I found myself in the Faroe Islands, 18 gnarled fingers of land halfway between Iceland and Norway, the exact middle of nowhere. Go in the 50-degree summer and the earth will be green—shockingly psychedelic green—dotted everywhere with free-roaming sheep and streaked with streams…