Innholdsfortegnelse for Mar-14 i Bon Appetit

How should you boil an egg to achieve the perfect texture? That all depends how you define perfect. We tested all sorts of methods, from dropping a dozen eggs into boiling water (pictured) to starting them in cold H2O and then bringing the heat. Go to bonappetit.com/egg to find out which techniques to use when, and you can make your eggs exactly the way you like them-every time. BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! Ricky Gervais (see page 116) can’t stop talking about cheese, and Andrew Zimmern (see page 20) has a lot of opinions on who to follow on Twitter. Read our bonus interviews with these guys-and many others-at bonappetit.com/people.…

It’s not often you dream about something you ate at a restaurant. But the warm, buttery, pull-apart, rotiesque "flaky bread" at Brooklyn’s Glasserie is powerful stuff. Once I made my own version, I found even more to love: It’s easy to throw together (just five ingredients) and crazy versatile (eat it with eggs in the morning, with dip for a snack, or wrapped around grilled meat at dinner). Best of all, you can make the dough ahead of time, freeze, and when a craving strikes or a friend stops by unannounced-boom! Just griddle and you’re good to go. For the recipe, plus three ante-upping dips, turn the page. -ALISON ROMAN HOW WE DIP CHARRED EGGPLANT AND TAHINI SPREAD Cut 1 large eggplant lengthwise into quarters. Place on a baking sheet…

There was a time, when our kids were two and three, that we dreamed of the day when they’d be 10 and 11, able to sit at the table and place food in their own mouths while filling us in on their days. Now that we’re finally here—avert your eyes, new parents—we realize that our dream was a mirage, that life finds a way of constantly moving the goalposts on you. Family dinner is still chaotic, only the challenges have shifted from the physical to the logistical. And spring, for us—with two daughters deeply entrenched in the travel-soccer thing—is the most chaotic time of year. Practices don’t end until 7:30, which means that, most nights, dinner doesn’t happen until the (very European) hour of 8:30. When you’re dealing with an…

Spicy Honey-Glazed Parsnips ACTIVE 45 MINUTES TOTAL 45 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS Some parsnips can have a woody core, which you’ll want to cut away before cooking. Turn to Prep School on page 112 to see how to remove it. 2 lb. parsnips, peeled, cut into 3" lengths, halved, or quartered if large ¼ cup olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 chiles de árbol, crushed, or ¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. honey Preheat oven to 450°. Toss parsnips and oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper. Roast parsnips, tossing occasionally, until tender and deep golden brown in spots, 35–40 minutes. Meanwhile, heat chiles de árbol, butter, vinegar, and honey in a small saucepan…

WE ARE TRADITIONALISTS, so we go all out on St. Paddy’s Day. We cook a classic corned beef and cabbage dinner, replete with floury spuds, parsley sauce, and brown bread with salted Irish butter. It’s a very fine supper. But to be completely honest, it’s the hash we make for breakfast the following day that is our favorite. With that in mind, we order two cuts of corned beef brisket from our local butcher: the lean “first” or “flat” cut for our boiled dinner (its tight grain allows for carving into uniform slices), and the thicker, marbled “second” or “point” cut for making hash (it shreds easily when cooked to fork-tenderness). The brisket that we buy has been traditionally cured—or “corned”—with coarse, corn-size grains of salt; pink salt to preserve…

I interviewed BOBBY FLAY for the first time 14 years ago, while writing a grilling article for GQ. Among other things, I wanted to know how I could prevent sliced vegetables from slipping through the grill grates. “Cut them f#*!ing bigger!” he said. It was quintessential Flay: to the point and, yes, a little blunt. But it was the kind of advice that home cooks could not only act on immediately, but also remember. Over the years, I found myself going back to him for all sorts of tips. Stuff like, “When making a salad, always salt your greens before dressing them.” (See Rule No. 8 to learn why.) While his advice may sound simple and obvious, you’d be surprised how few chefs are able to clearly explain what they…

Oysters have once again become the bivalve of the hour, the defining protein of the age, expressing everything we want life and food to be right now. Luxurious but unpretentious, decadent but healthful, oysters are the must-order—from the basis of le grand plateau de fruits de mer at a New York institution like Balthazar to seafood-centric newbies like The Ordinary in Charleston, South Carolina. Oysters are even quasi-wild and sustainable, not to mention downright good for the oceans. There’s something sweetly deceptive about their simplicity, too. At least it felt that way to me, sitting at grand old Elliott’s Oyster House on Seattle’s waterfront. The two dozen trays behind the shucker were flagged with names like Hama Hama, Barron Point, Little Skookum—farms within a few hours’ drive (or sail) of…

MY DAD USED TO CALL IT THE GUYS’ LUNCH. Every month or so, he’d get together with our next-door neighbor Ralph Muoio, our up-the-block neighbor Pat Fleming, and Ralph’s former law partner Bob Elliott. This was back in the early ’90s, when Republicans and Democrats in Washington, D.C., used to talk to each other—even break bread together. The restaurant of choice was usually Otello, an Italian joint off Dupont Circle owned by a Portuguese gentleman named Carlos. Pat and my dad, old-school liberals, would plant themselves firmly on the left side of the table, so to speak. Ralph and Bob (tax attorneys) bolted themselves to the right. Fried mozzarella sticks would start off the meal. Ralph, who grew up on Staten Island in the 1930s and who could legitimately be…

Mastering culinary social media. How the Bizarre Foods America host uses his 653,535 Twitter followers and 94,022 Instagram fans to live a more delicious life THE GOLDEN RULE “Engage with the engaging. Follow the people you admire, read, listen to, and watch—and whose take on life is right-sized. The more you put in, the more you’ll get out.” Find Your Community “I was an early adopter of Vine, but then it got co-opted by people doing stop-motion and humor videos. The audience is different now, and all I see is people making Vines of fart balloons. I’m thrilled that Instagram went to a video format.” Be the Good Kind of Creeper “There are big food events, like James Beard dinners, every weekend. I follow along on Instagram, and if I…

For years, super-hoppy IPAs were the cool thing to order at craft beer bars. To get anything else-well, you might as well have asked for an Appletini. Enter the sour beer, a style loved by brew nerds but easily appreciated by anyone. Beneath that first tongue-tingling shock is an elegant Champagne fizz and acidic twang that chainsaws through fatty or salty foods, yet is delicate enough for sushi. This is all thanks to souring bacteria Pediococcus and Lactobacillus (which morphs milk into yogurt), or the wild yeast Brettanomyces, which lends a musty barnyard accent. Yes, it can be an acquired taste, but one we think is well worth cultivating. When ordering in a bar, just ask the bartender for his tartest bottle or scan the menu for words like Iambic,…

SOMETIMES A RESTAURANT strikes a chord with BA staffers: One editor raves about a meal there, then another, until it seems like we’re running a satellite office out of the joint. Uncle Boons is one of those restaurants. The food is fiery and complex, the decor charmingly kitschy, and we’re smitten with any place that serves beer in slushy form. If you pick the right dish, it’s easy to take these great flavors home (not the slushie, though)— even for a Thai-cooking novice. And if it’s a little unfamiliar, even better: “It’s fun to do a dinner party outside your scope of comfort,” says Ann Redding, co-chef with Matt Danzer. Especially when it tastes this good. THE MENU Green Mango Salad Massaman Chicken Toasted Coconut Sundaes with Candied Peanuts Bolan…

NOT LONG AGO, DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES could feel like a street scene in Blade Runner, all shadowy alleys punctuated by the occasionally transcendent bowl of ramen. But in the past few years there have been so many exciting restaurant openings that it’s become a thriving destination that bears repeat visits—for both locals and tourists. All the textbook indicators of culinary and cultural cool are fully aligned: a brand-new Ace Hotel, a Swedish hipster-fashion superstore, a Stumptown Coffee Roasters, and a homegrown market hall where you can get a bargain carne asada taco or Hainanese chicken rice that just happens to be cooked sous-vide. This is that thrilling, fleeting moment in a neighborhood’s evolution that makes dining there all the more exciting, when you can still get a $9 lunch or…

“The first time we served this dish was on top of a parking garage,” SAYS ISAAC MCHALE, SORTING THROUGH a pile of breakfast radishes. “We did a pop-up for 110 people with nothing to cook on but an oil drum.” The radishes, requiring zero stove time, were a necessary choice. By comparison, tonight’s event—a dinner with friends at the Clove Club, the restaurant McHale opened a year ago with supper-club mates Johnny Smith and Daniel Willis—should be a breeze. “There’s no pressure,” says McHale. “I’m used to cooking for people, and tonight I’m among friends.” Better yet, there’s a full working kitchen. McHale (chef), Smith (front of house), and Willis (also front of house) met in 2010, bonding over a shared passion for food and music. McHale had just begun…

FROM P. 52 Ever crack an egg into simmering water only to watch the white spread out and form wispy tentacles? It happened to me until I came across this game-changing fix: Break the egg into a sieve set over a bowl. The watery outer edge of the white will drain through, leaving the thicker white and yolk intact. Then slip the egg directly from the sieve into the water; the white will firm up around the yolk, creating a smooth, compact package. -CLAIRE SAFFITZ. KEY MOMENT PARSNIP TIP We love sweet, nutty parsnips, but the fibrous cores of older ones can take forever to soften. Here’s the work-around: First, quarter the parsnips lengthwise. Then, hold your knife at an angle to cut away the core. —DAWN PERRY SURE, HURRY…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY FAMILY WAS RECENTLY IN PORTLAND, OREGON, AND WE FELL HARD FOR THE FREEKEH SALAD AT GRÜNER. MY DAD STILL CAN’T STOP RAVING ABOUT IT. —JENNY LAMONT, Somerville, MA FREEKEH SALAD WITH CHICKEN AND KALE 4 SERVINGS If you can’t find freekeh, use another whole grain, like spelt or rye berries. DRESSING 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. finely grated Parmesan 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper SALAD AND ASSEMBLY 1 cup freekeh Kosher salt 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 12 oz. total) Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn 1 medium kohlrabi, peeled, cut into matchsticks 4 radishes, thinly…

Slow-baked, sautéed, or shredded for slaw, the humble cabbage is one of late winter’s most versatile vegetables KIMCHI-STYLE SAUTÉED CABBAGE “A nice alternative to its fermented cousin; put this on pork chops or fish.” —Brad Leone, test kitchen assistant Purée 2 cut-up scallions, 2 garlic cloves, a chopped 1" piece ginger, 2 Tbsp. gochujang, 1 Tbsp. fish sauce, and 1 Tbsp. rice vinegar in a blender. Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat. Cook ½ head green cabbage, cut into 1" strips, tossing often, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add scallion mixture and sliced scallions; season with salt. 4 servings CABBAGE AND ASIAN PEAR SLAW “This hits all the notes of a great slaw: creamy, tangy, and crunchy.” —Claire Saffitz, assistant food editor Mix together…

No Aleppo pepper on hand? Use red chile flakes instead. THE COOLEST STORE IN AMERICA Just like you don’t have to live on a mountaintop to drive an SUV, you don’t have to be Ranger Rick to shop at Snow Peak, the Japanese outdoor retailer that recently opened its first and only U.S. shop in Portland, Oregon. At least that’s how I explain my addiction to its smartly designed axes, lanterns, camping chairs, and, yes, even titanium sporks. $10; snowpeak.com Cuke O’Clock The BA offices are no different than yours—3 p.m. munching is practically a sport. But after 12 years here, I’ve learned to eat healthier in between meals. Now my go-to snack is English cucumber tossed with Maldon salt, Aleppo pepper, and lemon juice. It’s spicy, crunchy, and gets…

MEDICAL STUDENT DAVID LY struggled with his knife. It was his first day in class, and the blade felt awkward in his hand. But with an experienced instructor guiding his strokes, Ly’s slices soon became smooth and fluid. Ly wasn’t performing surgery—he was learning to chop an onion. He’s a student at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, which in 2012 launched the nation’s first culinary medicine program. Acknowledging that diet is at the core of some of America’s most prevalent diseases, the program aims to arm doctors with cooking know-how, not just prescription pads. The Goldring Center for Culinary Medicine is run by Tulane professor Timothy Harlan, M.D., a chef turned internist who saw doctors struggling to really talk to patients about their diet. On average, U.S.…

Meryl Rothstein senior associate editor “It doesn’t get much cozier than this pot pie—a buttery crust atop red wine–braised short ribs. As the liquid bubbles away, I get to curl up with the stack of magazines I’ve been meaning to get to all week (and the rest of that bottle of wine).” Carla Lalli Music food and features editor “In my quest to re-create the texture of rotisserie chicken, I came up with this slow-roasted revelation. It spends hours in the oven until it’s infused with herbs and spices and falling off the bone. I’ve actually taken my kids to the park while it roasted, coming home to a dinner that seems to have cooked itself.” Colu Henry special projects director “I simply season this pork shoulder and let the…

"BUTTERMILK HAS GREAT LEAVENING QUALITIES. IT MAKES THINGS RISE IN BREADS OR CAKES, AND ALSO MAKES THEM EXTREMELY MOIST." -DIANE ST. CLAIR, AUTHOR, THE ANIMAL FARM BUTTERMILK COOKBOOK JUST CALL IT BETTERMILK REAL BUTTERMILK Old-fashioned buttermilk is what’s left after cream has been churned into butter. Naturally low-fat, it looks like thick milk. (Cultures are added to thicken it further.) Look for bottles from local dairies at specialty shops or the farmers’ market. SUPERMARKET STANDARD Most buttermilk in the dairy aisle starts with low-fat milk and isn’t derived from butter. It’s interchangeable with traditional buttermilk (hence perfectly suitable for baking), though it lacks the rich flavor and tartness of the real thing. BEYOND BAKING Use any extra buttermilk to make Indian lassis or add it to fruit smoothies, stir a…

He may be a gym rat these days, but it’s not because Ricky Gervais wants to look like Matthew McConaughey. “The only reason I work out is so I can eat more cheese,” says the comedic powerhouse, who stars in this month’s Muppets Most Wanted. But while he’s got an insatiable appetite for cheddar, Gervais also cops to being a picky eater. Meat is off the table unless it’s disguised: “I have to think it’s tofu.” Seafood also freaks him out: “Oysters? It’s a saucer of snot. I’ll have fish fingers. That’s my favorite fish—the finger fish.” Still, Gervais says he’s trying hard to nurture his inner gourmand. Recent restaurant outings have included Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in Bray, England (“a chemistry lab crossed with a circus”), and David…