Innholdsfortegnelse for Jul-15 i Bon Appetit

IMAGINE CHAMPAGNE without the pretense or the price and you’ve got the wine of the moment: pétillant naturel. Literally, “naturally sparkling,” it’s abbreviated to pét-nat to make it even more adorable. Yes, it has “natural” in its name, which is enough right there to make it buzzy, but everything about this lightweight, fizzy drink quenches the modern thirst for authentic, handmade, unadorned wine. Crafted from white and red grapes alike, pét-nat is made by taking unfinished (in other words, still-fermenting) wine, bottling and capping it, and allowing it to complete fermentation in the bottle (that’s where the bubbles come from). It’s the ultimate in lo-fi winemaking, conjuring images of ruddy French farmers in grimy blue coveralls filling bottles by hand. “It’s Russian roulette winemaking,” says Onward Wine’s Faith Armstrong-Foster, not…

11 QUESTIONS FOR You’re of Nigerian heritage. Did you grow up eating primarily Nigerian food? “A mix. I love pizza, but I also love egusi.” Egusi? “It’s a spinach stew made with a melon seed—kind of like pumpkin seed but with a smoky flavor. It’s made with onions, tomatoes, chiles, spices, and smoked dried fish. It’s the most delicious thing ever.” Typical elementary school lunch? “My mom would make what were probably her idea of typical Western lunches, like a turkey sandwich, but it was never the delisliced turkey that all my neighbors had— it was roasted chicken or roasted turkey. As an adult I realize I had the better sandwich, but as a kid you just want deli meat.” Food trends you can’t get behind? “I’m not mad at…

“Stars, Stripes, and Fried Chicken Forever”—that was the original name of that song, right? In celebration of our nation’s birthday, we’re taking our love for this all-American classic to its rightful home: the picnic table. That’s because fried chicken is just as tender and miraculously crunchy at room temp as it is fresh out of the fryer. But oh, this isn’t just any fried chicken. What we have here is the mind-blowing creation of Ari Kolender, the chef of Charleston, SC, newcomer Leon’s Oyster Shop. Kolender brines the bird in hot sauce, dips it in buttermilk, dredges it in Old Bay–seasoned flour, fries it, then glazes it with lard and a final hit of cayenne and paprika. Yeah, it’s as insane as it sounds, and nothing less would do as…

Herby Black Rice Salad with Radishes and Ricotta Salata 4 SERVINGS Make the rice before you leave, and pack the vinaigrette in a little jar on the side. You’ll thank us, Scout’s honor. VINAIGRETTE ¼ cup olive oil 2 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper salad and assembly 1 cup black rice Kosher salt 2 cups mixed radishes, sliced, quartered Freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta), thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped unsalted, roasted almonds ¼ cup chopped fresh dill 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives VINAIGRETTE Combine oil and vinegar in a small airtight container; cover, and shake well. Season with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Vinaigrette can be made 3 days ahead; chill. SALAD AND ASSEMBLY Combine rice and 1…

Honey-Turmeric Pork with Beet and Carrot Salad 4 SERVINGS A little honey in the marinade helps these cutlets caramelize, guaranteeing they’ll be nicely browned despite the super-short cooking time. 1 ¼ lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), fat trimmed to ¼", cut into 4 pieces Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 ½ tsp. finely grated peeled turmeric or ½ tsp. ground turmeric ½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt ¼ cup honey 2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice, divided 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 3 small beets, scrubbed, thinly sliced 3 small carrots, preferably with tops, tops reserved, carrots scrubbed, cut on a diagonal 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives 2 Tbsp. olive oil Flaky sea salt Pound pork between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to ¼" thick;…

Holed Up Display your new colander on a hook or nail near the sink— one less thing to cram in the cabinet. 1 Shine On This Old Dutch brand hanging colander looks antique, but its special copperplated finish won’t tarnish. $25; bedbathand beyond.com 2 Berry Beautiful This hand-thrown stoneware berry (a.k.a. small) colander by ceramist Peter Sheldon has a foodsafe inner glaze. $80; petersheldon ceramics.com 3 The Classic No retro-style kitchen is complete without an enamelware colander. This one’s made in a centuriesold Austrian factory. $55; kaufmannmercantile.com 4 Make a Statement Crafted from hand-polished stainless steel, this investment piece doubles as a stylish and striking fruit bowl that’s worth showing off. $320; rablabs.com 5 Rinse & Repeat The porcelain “Threshold” model has a warm white look and, even better, an…

NOT TO BRUISE YOUR EGO, BASIL, BUT YOU’RE NOT THE ONLY REASON PEOPLE GO GAGA FOR PESTO. It’s the powerhouse trifecta of hearty toasted nuts, salty aged cheese, and grassy olive oil that makes it taste so good. The hard truth, my friend, is this: You’re totally replaceable. Chefs all over the country are whizzing up alt pestos featuring everything from ramp tops to broccoli rabe, and diners are loving them. At Southbound in Richmond, VA, chefs Joe Sparatta and Lee Gregory make one with Southern staples collard greens and peanuts that would bring a Genoan to his knees. “It’s not that basil pesto is boring—it’s just been done to death,” Sparatta says. “I can’t tell you how many different riffs on pesto I’ve made over the years. It’s so…

KNOW YOUR CHERRIES □ SWEET With just a touch of tartness, these cherries are impossible not to eat straight out of hand. Saute or quickly roast—they can get mushy when baked. Bing is the most common variety, and pinkish-golden Rainiers look beautiful muddled into summer cocktails, but don’t pass up Sweethearts and Lapins! □ SOUR We love sour cherries, such as Montmorency and Morello. They are fireengine red, intensely flavored, and really the only cherry you should be using in your pie. They aren’t just for desserts, either: Try them sautéed with grilled or roast pork. —RICK MARTINEZ Savory Crostini Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high. Add 3 cups halved pitted sweet cherries and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned in spots…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 1 2 0. TAKE A HIKE A ten-minute drive from town will put you on the trail at the Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve. The sweeping vistas of the Golden Gate and Bay bridges make a little hard work worth it. 1 For years people have been proclaiming Oakland the next big food destination. Well, I was done waiting. Turns out I timed my visit perfectly. Burger savants, fried chicken masters, and ramen prodigies are all here now, and they’re onto something: Oakland is no San Francisco side trip; it’s the destination. The diversity of eating experiences in just a few square miles is insane. I chased a meticulously made French pastry with a Chinatown cruller and ate…

TO WATCH BEDDIA MAKE AMERICA’S BEST PIZZA, GO TO BONAPPETIT COM/BEDDIA I MET JOE BEDDIA in 2008, when he was pouring beer at the South Philadelphia Tap Room. He was already a pizza nerd, throwing around terms like cornicione, Italian for the lip of a pizza, and referring to the underside of a pie as the “undercarriage.” So it’s not a complete surprise that, seven years later, I find myself watching Beddia make dough. It’s 9 a.m., and he is in his happy place. Howard Stern is on the radio (Beddia doesn’t just listen to Stern, he actually calls in to the show) while Beddia does what he loves: combining organic flour, yeast, water, extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt, and sugar. Thirty-six hours from now, this dough will provide the…

ALAIN PASSARD’SIDEA OF THE PERFECT DISH FOR A MIDSUMMER BARBECUE ? THROWING 14 YOUNG VEGETABLES ( AND HERBS ) ON THE GRILL FOR A SMOKE- KISSED, LIGHTLY CRUNCHY RATATOUILLE . “THOUSAND- FLAVOR FRUIT SALAD” IS THAT MORNING’S RIPEST FRUIT FROM PASSARD’S GARDENS—BABY APPLES AND PEARS INCLUDED—SLICED ACCORDING TO THEIR NATURAL SHAPE , THEN DOUSED WITH AN INTOXICATING SPICED SYRUP. VEGETAB LE S should write Alain Passard a thank-you note—and you should too. This is the man at the root of all those veg-centric tasting menus, the visionary who launched a thousand restaurant-owned farms. Chefs come to his Paris restaurant, L’Arpège, to taste the happiest vegetables in the world in the hope that some of that knowledge will rub off. When Passard took meat off his menu in 2001, it made…

“I love the Fourth of July,” says Elizabeth Banks, who ditches her Hunger Games/Effie Trinket look to play a very tan former stripper in this month’s Magic Mike XXL. It’s a revealing move for the actress—and it turns out she’s as bold in the kitchen as she is on-screen. Take her patriotic barbecue, which has definite rules. Potato salad? “Red Bliss potatoes—with mayo,” she says. Watermelon? “With seeds. It’s sweeter, and it’s fun to spit the seeds out.” No argument there. As for the music: “I’m all about hits. What’s Taylor Swift putting out?” Here, Banks—who also directed this summer’s hit Pitch Perfect 2 and stars in the Brian Wilson biopic Love & Mercy (out now)—offers her outdoor party must-haves. Let the real Hunger Games begin.…

SUNDAE BEST WE’RE ALL FOR POLISHING OFF A PINT DURING A HOUSE HUNTERS MARATHON. But our grandparents had it right: The best way to eat ice cream is at a counter. Feet dangling from stools, eyes on the soda jerk, and with extra hot fudge. A new generation is pairing pastry degrees with paper hats, making parlor favorites like sundaes and malts that are anything but vanilla. There’s sesame in the caramel, shiso in the splits—and still plenty of fun on the menu. We’re getting ours to stay. LOOK SHARP Morgenstern’s nods to the past without getting too nostalgic— note its modern black-and-white interior. Where to Go We all scream for, well, you know, at these five top spots Cold Front Minneapolis Soda shop treats go small-batch, with syrups like cherry…

The girls didn’t love the Salad Sandwich, but you will! Get the recipe at bonappetit.com /providers OVER PORK SHOULDER TACOS ONE NIGHT, we told our daughters that we had an announcement to make. “Jeez, that sounds scary,” said Phoebe, our 13-year-old. Little did she know. “Next week, we’re going vegetarian,” we informed them. “Now, you guys are either with us or against us, and since you aren’t old enough to get a vote, it looks like you’ll be with us.” Oh my God, the whining. But I’ll be starving. Tofu is disgusting. This isn’t fair. We already eat a lot of vegetables. This last point was true. Our daughters have been trained to think of a meal as incomplete without something green on their plates. They ask for seconds…

Sunny Dressing When you leave lemon peels behind on the cutting board, you’re (literally) throwing away free flavor. The peel adds a mild bitterness that we love, plus a bit of texture that instantly makes a salad dressing interesting. This whole-lemon vinaigrette can take on much more than Bibb lettuce: It’s substantial enough to go head to head with blistered string or flat beans, smoky grilled meats—you name it. So take ½ lemon (yes, with the peel), thinly slice it, discard the seeds, and finely chop it. Place it in a bowl with 3 Tbsp. olive oil and 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice. Grate in ½ garlic clove, season with salt and pepper, and whisk it all together. WHY WE. . .PRICK PORK CHOPS > Making tiny punctures all over…

PAVLOVAS WITH FRESH BERRIES MAKES ABOUT 12 Heating the sugar before beating it into the egg whites creates an extra-glossy, stable meringue. MERINGUE 1 ¼ cups sugar 6 large egg whites Pinch of cream of tartar ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 2 tsp. vanilla extract ¾ cup chopped almonds, walnuts, or pistachios, and/or 3 Tbsp. poppy seeds ASSEMBLY ¼ cup sugar 36 oz. raspberries and/or blackberries (about 6 cups), divided 1 ¼ cups heavy cream MERINGUE Preheat oven to 350°. Scatter sugar in a shallow baking dish and bake 10 minutes. After 8 minutes, using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl until foamy. Remove sugar from oven and decrease temperature to 200°. With the mixer…

Chilaquiles with Blistered Tomatillo Salsa and Eggs 4 SERVINGS If you’ve got both a camp stove and a grill, you’re golden: Prep the salsa over the live fire, and make perfect eggs on the propane stove. 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for grill 2 lb. tomatillos (about 20 medium), husks removed, rinsed 2 jalapenos 1 large white onion, quartered through root end 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 large eggs 1 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed 1 10-oz. bag yellow corn tortilla chips ½ cup plain Greek yogurt 2 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta), crumbled Hot sauce and cilantro leaves Prepare campfire for medium-high heat; lightly oil grate. Grill tomatillos and jalapenos, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and beginning to collapse, 8–10 minutes; transfer…

FROM P. 84 All the Shrimp in the Sea When buying shrimp, the terms small, medium, and large aren’t joke. They make a difference in the type of dish they’re destined for. Here’s our size guide. —ALISON ROMAN SMALL These quick-cooking guys are great for stir-fries, curries, and pastas. It’s hard to resist them peeled and deveined, but once their flesh is uncovered, their shelf life is shorter. MEDIUM Manageable yet meaty, these are the “just right” choice for tossing into salads, stirring into seafood stews, and quick-pickling. LARGE Bust these out when you’re going for quality over quantity—think shrimp cocktail or grilling, where shrimp will be the main event. FROM P. 12 SMOKE IT IF YOU’VE GOT IT Cold-smoking foods adds flavor to ingredients without cooking them: Onions and…