Innholdsfortegnelse for Jun-15 i Bon Appetit

FOLLOW ADAM ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM AT @RAPO4 Last summer, when my wife left town on a work trip, I decided to throw a backyard barbecue, complete with a roaring charcoal grill and bone-in rib eyes as thick as butcher blocks and as wellmarbled as slabs of Carrara. But unlike most backyard get-togethers, this wasn’t going to be about plastic plates and cans of beer. I wanted to host a proper dinner. Because while summer suggests casual gatherings, that doesn’t mean you have to check your ambitions at the Memorial Day door. First, I needed partners. I’d been married for seven years at that point, and any time Simone and I entertained, we always tag-teamed. Enter Amiel Stanek, my then-assistant (and now a full-fledged, big-shot BA editor). As great of…

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Do you consider yourself a good cook? “I’m very good on a grill. I’m very medium when it comes to cooking.” Favorite thing to grill? “I like grilling salmon, shrimp, chicken, burgers, vegetables on skewers—everything.” Any tips? “Classic rock music. If you listen to Bob Seger while you’re grilling, he will inform your body when to turn the meat.” What are you drinking when you grill? “You get fresh oranges—or my buddy will come by with fruit from his garden— and you mix the fruit with vodka.” Favorite nonalcoholic drink? “I got hooked on LaCroix [sparkling water], and I drink—not kidding—probably six a day.” Most unusual item in your refrigerator? “Goat milk. My wife likes to put goat milk in her coffee.” Do you? “No. I think it’s so gross.”…

Grill Simpler 1 Toss whatever vegetable you’re using in olive oil and some salt. 2 Grill on the rack over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until tender and nicely charred. The grilling time will depend on the size of what you’re cooking, but it goes fast— a minute or two for scallions—so don’t walk away. 3 Finish with a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. I had two goals while on vacation in Maine last summer: Disconnect from all electronics, and employ the grill for every meal. Technological sobriety proved to be a pipe dream, but my grilling bender was a raging success. And I owe it all to a $1 piece of woven aluminum called a grill topper that I spotted while waiting in line at the grocery store. That…

These recipes use the same technique: Brown the meat over hot coals for a crunchy exterior, then finish over indirect heat (like searing a steak on the stovetop, then roasting it in the oven). To do this, you need a two-zone fire. Here’s how to set it up and why it’s a game changer for larger cuts. HOW TO FIRE IT UP GAS Have one burner on high or medium-high, other burners turned of (you need a safe space for flare-ups). CHARCOAL Bank the coals on one side of the grill (the cooler side is for indirect cooking). For meats with longer grilling times, you may have to restock your coals, especially when using hardwood charcoal. Have a chimney going so you can refuel as needed. WHY IT’S SO GREAT…

PINEAPPLE PRIMER Ah, summer and sweet pineapple. We love the tropical fruit in salads and, yes, for on the grill (trust us). But how to pick one that’s perfectly ripe under that hard, spiky exterior? Forget everything you’ve heard; here are a few signs to look for that can actually help. —DAWN PERRY NOSE Your fruit should smell sweet and floral—like, well, pineapple. But skip it if there’s a whiff of fermentation. That guy is too ripe and already on his way to funktown. COLOR Pineapples turn gold from bottom to top as they ripen. Choose one that’s more yellow than green, and cut it before it starts to dry out or collapse. FEEL Like all fruit, a pineapple should feel heavy for its size— that signals juiciness—and be firm…

Right now there is simply no better way to dine out as a group than to gather a slew of friends for Korean barbecue. And there have never been better places to do so, from Koreatown classics to modern restaurants upending tradition. See what we’re ordering, how we’re grilling, and what shots we’re doing. SOUP Koreans are legendary soup and stew masters, so order one or two for the table to share. You can’t go wrong with the fiery kimchi jjigae, or earthy doenjang jjigae, made with soybean paste. BANCHAN Complimentary small plates meant to complement the meal (but you can graze at any time). You’ll often find two kimchis, seasoned sprouts, daikon radish, and potato salad. Feel free to ask for refills. MEAT Order a mix of beef and…

Magnetic Attraction There’s no law that says all fridge magnets must be “funny” versions of “Keep Calm and Carry On.” You can thank the designers/woodworkers at Bower studio for these playful Stick-Up Sticks, made from painted beechwood. THE OTHER WHITE BREAD Pillowy, buttery-tasting milk bread (so-called for the whole milk incorporated into the starter and/or dough) is venturing outside its usual Asian-bakery stomping grounds, served with toro tartare and osetra caviar at Shuko in New York, topped with fresh fruit for dessert at Asta in Boston, and spread with oregano butter as Orsa & Winston’s bread course in L.A. So Hot Right Now Three new ways to get your charcoal on In a Hibachi When Pok Pok chef Andy Ricker discovered these binchotan-esque logs made from rambutan wood that burn…

Get Smashed Why waste time with a knife? A simple whack to a cucumber yields jagged surfaces eager to soak up this tangy dressing Cucumbers with Scallions and Chili Oil ACTIVE 10 MIN TOTAL 20 MIN 4 SERVINGS Gently smack 1 lb. Persian or English hothouse cucumbers with a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy pot until they begin to break apart. Tear into bite-size pieces. Transfer to a colander; toss with 1 tsp. kosher salt. Let sit 10 minutes to drain excess liquid. Transfer cucumbers to a medium bowl and toss with 3 sliced scallions, 3 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar, and 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt. Drizzle with chili oil. KEY MOMENT: TOSS, TOSS, TOSS > Even with this no-cook olive…

PEACH & FIZZY GRAPEFRUIT ICE CREAM PEACH + SODA GRAPEFRUIT + GARNISH TARRAGON OR LEMON VERBENA SPRIG SPIKE IT! 1 OZ. CAMPARI VANILLA WITH BITIES AND CHERRIES ICE CREAM VANILLA + SODA SELTZER AND 1 TBSP. ANGOSTURA BITTERS + GARNISHES LUXARDO MARASCHINO CHERRIES SPIKE IT! 1 OZ. CHERRY BRANDY OR KIRSCH COCONUT & Cream ICE CREAM COCONUT + SODA CREAM + GARNISH CHOCOLATE SYRUP SPIKE IT! 1 OZ. RUM green Tea & Ginger Beer ICE CREAM GREEN TEA + SODA GINGER BEER + GARNISH MINT SPRIG SPIKE IT! 1 OZ. IRISH WHISKEY…

Refresher COURSE This is how Gerardo Gonzalez of El Rey in New York City makes a salad that’s more than just…a salad. GO NUTS WITH NUTS “Nuts add savoriness— it’s umami without the ranch dressing. I like to crush pecans unevenly so that the powdery bits coat the grains, and I’ll use a Microplane to grate almonds on top of a salad for subtle flavor.” RAID YOUR SPICE CABINET “I actually get as many ideas at the spice store as I do at the farmers’ market. Your spice cabinet can be a great resource! If you find a really good smoked salt, put it on fruit and see what that does.” PLAY WITH ACID “Figure out which acid is best for your palate. I pretty much stick with lemon juice,…

SHOPPING LIST TRUE WEST pp. 60–71 ANTIQUE NAVAJO SERVING PIECES From RRL; 631-907-9201 BEACON BLANKETS RRL; 212-625-3480 CARSEN CONCHO FLATWARE $50; TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 10–14 THE LINE HOTEL 3515 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles; 213-381-7411; thelinehotel.com THE MISSION 3815 N. Brown Ave., Scottsdale, AZ; 480-636-5005; themissionaz.com RIBELLE 1665 Beacon St., Brookline, MA; 617-232-2322; ribellebkline.com ILLUSTRATED GUIDE p. 24 DRUNKEN DRAGON 1424 Atton Rd., Miami Beach; 305-397-8556; drunkendragon.com KANG HO DONG BAEKJEONG 1 E. 32nd St., NYC; 212-966-9839 TROVE 500 E. Pike St., Seattle; 206-457-4622; troveseattle.com THE BA CHECKLIST p. 30 ASTA 47 Massachusetts Ave., Boston; 617-585-9575; astaboston.com ORSA & WINSTON 122 W. Fourth St., Los Angeles; 213-687-0300; orsaandwinston.com SHUKO 47 E. 12th St., NYC; 212-228-6088; shukonyc.com NAVIGATOR: BOGOTÁ pp. 50–56 ABASTO Carrera 6 No. 119B-52; +57-1-215-1286; abasto.co AMOR PERFECTO Carrera…

1 of 2 D.I.Y. SPICE BLENDS Learn their names: togarashi, vadouvan, za’atar, ras-el-hanout. These are some of the intense, complex spice blends that you’ll find in the kitchens of the chefs we’re most excited about right now, from Sara Kramer at Madcapra in L.A. to Yotam Ottolenghi at his eponymous London spots. They practice what cooks the world over have long known: Spices taste good on their own, but a whole bunch of them— carefully combined—taste sublime. And now it’s time to learn how to blend them yourself. Why? Because once you’ve got a batch or two in your arsenal, you’re just a lid twist and a spoonful away from adding huge, eyebrow-raising flavor to everything from roast chicken to grilled veggies. We spent the morning with Atef Boulaabi, the…

So you’re on a date, choose a wine, and smile appreciatively as two long-stemmed glasses are set in front of you. The sommelier strides over and begins to open…a milk carton? The quality and variety of wine in boxes, cartons, and cans—cans!— continue to improve, even if our perceptions haven’t. Here are a few alternatively packaged overachievers ideal for summer picnics—even camping. Remember, wines are like people: It’s what’s inside that counts. Can Wine may never get past the bro-y, high-fiving imagery that cans conjure, but they’re perfectly sound vessels for quality wine: They won’t absorb light and oxygen like glass bottles with corks do. Aluminum is more recyclable than glass, more portable, cheaper… you get it. You can always pour the wine into a glass before your oenophile friends…

There are two types of people in this world: pie people, and…okay, let’s just pretend there are only pie people. Because if there’s anything more perfect in its simplicity than gloriously ripe, juicy fruit baked in a golden, buttery pastry shell, we don’t know about it. Yet sometimes the most basic things are the hardest to master—and pie is no exception. That’s why we’re taking our favorite dessert back to its fundamentals. We tested every crust technique to develop a foolproof method that’s so old (no appliances necessary!) it’s new again. We created easy-to-follow guidelines for fillings that put an end to gloppy fruit. And if you’re still worried about all that fancy crimping and lattice-making, we promise it’s not as intimidating as it looks. Follow along: We’re about to…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 1 07. From Brazil to Peru, South America has become a major food-lover’s destination. And lately, some of our favorite chefs, like David Kinch and Ignacio Mattos, have been sending us excited dispatches from Bogotá. So we hopped a plane to check it out. Turns out, the ideal way to spend a gastronomic trip there is to combine the high and the low, the fast and the slow, the healthy and the very, very deep-fried. While the city’s nuevo Colombiano chefs are creating intriguing mash-ups of traditional ingredients and imported techniques, the street food, from empanadas to truly exotic fruit salads, is just as worthwhile. Bogotá as a culinary destination? You heard it here first. BIKING IN…

01 GREAT SEAFOOD STARTS WITH A GREAT FISHMONGER Those fish won’t scale themselves, so this summer get to know the Fish Guy (or Gal). Here’s what to ask him or her to do: SCALE AND GUT For whole fish, this is also known as fully cleaned. If you want to leave the fins on (for the look), you should specify. If you’d like to buy squid that’s already been cleaned (and you probably do), call in advance to give a heads-up. BUTTERFLY AND FILLET The store should be able to cut up a fish any which way. If you need a steak or fillet cut to order, just ask. Same goes for butterflying a whole fish. SUGGEST SUSTAINABLE SWAPS A good fishmonger will help you determine what’s swimming locally, what’s…

At his legendary Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Aaron Franklin has mastered the “slow, agonizing cook” of brisket. (So far the only person to skip the hours-long line is President Obama.) Franklin’s the biggest name in the pitmaster business, appearing in everything from credit card ads to the film Chef, and publishing the snazzy new cookbook Franklin Barbecue: A Meat-Smoking Manifesto. But when the ambassador of low and slow is at home, he’s grilling in the backyard like the rest of us. “What’s more fun than standing around a grill with beers?” he says. He creates hot and cool zones on his ’50s-style PK grill for tomahawk steaks, shishitos, and more. For his ideal setup, see above.…