Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2014 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE THE FOOD-LOVER’S CLEANSE STARTS HERE There are more ways than ever to participate in our annual online detox, a two-week celebration of food that makes you feel good. Find these features and more on bonappetit.com: 1. Purge your pantry. We’ll show you what to toss—and what to stock up on—in 2014. 2. Have a drink! (No, really.) This isn’t about denial, so mix up one of our recipes for low-alcohol cocktails. 3. Throw a “cleansing” dinner party. Eating healthy doesn’t have to mean eating alone if you follow our guidelines. 4. Tell us how it’s going. As you cook, tag your Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram updates #bacleanse. 5. Ask our expert. Join a Facebook chat on January 7 with cleanse mastermind Sara Dickerman.…

BEAN TOWN There are many wany ways to cook dried beans, but only one that lest you skip the overnight soak: the super low-and-slow method. No matter what type of beans I toss in my pot, gently simmering for 2 to 3 hours makes them springy on the outside and perfectly creamy inside. I can throw together a huge batch on sunday, swapping in various ingredients (black with charred jalapeno and epazote if i’am in the mood for Mexican; cannellini with sage for italian), and then use it as a building block for meals throughout the week. Cheap and easy, with major mileage? This one’s a one-pot no-brainer. -ALEX GROSSMAN…

Spin Cycle The salad spinner—once a novelty itemhas earned its place in the pantheon of essential kitchen gear. Nicolas Jammet, co-founder of salad chain Sweetgreen, explains the 180 Family time growing up meant putting on a suit and eating at La Caravelle, the restaurant my parents ran in New York. It was one of those places that defined French cuisine for a lot of Americans: Dover sole, soufflé. And my parents loved to get my two brothers and me involved in the kitchen at home. Since my mom couldn’t exactly hand a knife to a five-year-old, she would let me use the salad spinner. We had a pull-string model, and I’d always want to make that thing spin really fast and then stop it. The food at home was simple…

Pan-Roasted Chicken with Harissa Chickpeas ACTIVE 20 MINUTES TOTAL 45 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS Harissa is a great shortcut ingredient to flavor, but no two jars (or tubes) are the same. Taste first—if it seems very spicy, use a bit less. You can always stir more into the chickpeas when the dish is finished. 1 Tbsp. olive oil 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 3 lb.) Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 2 15-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed ¼ cup harissa paste ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Lemon wedges, for serving INGREDIENT INFO: Harissa, a spicy North African red chile paste, is available at Middle Eastern markets, some specialty foods stores, and online.…

THE PERFECT 10H What does the new Paris taste like? Mini burgers with Comté cheese and a Japanese-style pork sandwich, for starters. And you’ll find it in the creative, funky, and oh-so-happening 10th arrondissement THERE’S NO SHORTAGE of life-changing meals to be had in Paris, but to experience the city at its most exciting in 2014, you’ll need to head to former fringe neighborhoods like the ethnically diverse 10th arrondissement. From the" hip Canal Saint-Martin [3] up through still-gritty pockets in the shadow of the Gare du Nord, trailblazing chefs like Katsuaki Okiyama and Thierry Breton draw food-savvy locals to an increasing number of “It” spots. Throw in a growing indie coffee scene, natural wines, plus market-fresh shopping, and why would you go anyplace else? For addresses of the restaurants…

Know your spelt 1 from your sorghum with our cheat sheet to these complex foods. Millet Gluten-free, high in fiber, and mild in flavor. Treat it like rice, or try subbing it for quinoa. Wild Rice Actually a grass that grows in lakes and streams. It takes a while to cook but stays deliciously a/dente. Barley The most nutritious barley is hull-less or hulled (not pearled); it contains more bran. Wheat Berries These kernels are the whole wheat grain-bran and germ intact. Hard wheat is generally chewier than tender soft wheat. Freekeh These grains come from green (underripe) wheat that’s roasted or smoked, giving it a toasty flavor. Try using it to make tabbouleh. Amaranth Considered the superfood of the Aztecs, amaranth is technically a seed. It has all nine…

Greens Guide One thing all these leafy greens have in common: They will shrink dramatically when cooked. Budget at least one pound of raw greens for two people. Kala Versatile kale can be sautéed, wilted in soups, added to salads, blanched and F used for pesto-even charred. Curly kale (far left) is easy to find; shop farmers’ markets for other types (above and at left). Collard greens Southerners love to braise collards with ham for hours, but these hearty leaves are I delicious quickly sautéed and also make an amazing slaw (try adding chiles and chopped peanuts). Beet greens Sub earthy beet greens for spinach in any recipe. They’re often sandy, so rinse them in several changes of water. Spinach Skip the prepacked bag of bland baby spinach and go…

WHETHER IT’S HERITAGE PORK, PASTURE-RAISED CHICKEN, OR GRASS-FED BEEF, TODAY’S WELLSOURCED, WELL-RAISED MEAT HAS EARNED A PRIME SPOT ON YOUR PLATE: IT’S BETTER FOR YOU (THAT’S SCIENCE TALKING, NOT US) AND BETTER TASTING (THAT’S US TALKING). THE KEY IS KNOWING HOW TO COOK IT We talk about meat differently than we did a decade ago. Go to any farm-to-table joint or hipster butcher, and you’re not just getting “beef” or “chicken” or “pork”—you’re getting protein with a side of adjectives: “Grass-fed.” “Pasture-raised.” “Heritage-breed.” This sometimes confusing array of terms points to one thing: In the quest for responsibly raised, incredibletasting, and healthier meat, there is a learning curve. Sure, our eyes have been opened to the idea that there is higher-quality meat to be had than the shrinkwrapped stuff at…

TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN THE (NOT) BITTER TRUTH FROM P. 18 A two-part process transforms grapefruit’s characteristically bitter skin and pith into meltingly tender, sweet strips. Here’s how it’s done, -CLAIRE SAFFITZ 1. Cut the peel away, leaving about ¼" of white pith attached to the peel. 2. Cut peel lengthwise into 3/8"-wide strips. 3. Place strips in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, drain, and repeat two more times to reduce bitterness. 4. After blanching, the pith will appear slightly translucent. 5. Simmer peel in sugar syrup until the pith is completely translucent and the strips are very soft, about 15 minutes. 6. Drain and let strips dry completely on a wire rack-they’ll firm up as they…

WAIST MANAGEMENT I STARTED WORKING AT BON APPÉTIT IN 2010, a year after I turned 40. I’m not sure which occurrence is more to blame—my becoming the editor in chief of a food magazine or hitting that milestone birthday—but pretty soon, I started to notice some changes. Suddenly my size-34 jeans, which I had ft into since college, started to feel a little snug. And my wife began commenting on the amount of “pancetta” around my midsection. My energy level started to fag a bit. I needed to take action. But what kind? In general, I’m not prone to excess. I rarely graze at the “free table” here at Bon App (you’d be shocked how many bins of caramel corn and boxes of boutique chocolates find their way to our…

Christina Applegate on… Eating healthy all year long. But preaching about it? Not a chance, says the vegetarian star of Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues Forget Resolutions “They always end in disappointment. Why not just wake up and say, ‘Today I’m going to do my best to be healthy’?” Drink Your Veg “There’s nothing worse than feeling full and trying to be funny. With Anchorman, you needed to be on your toes. It sounds not fun, but a good green juice pumps you up fast. It’s all I ever have for breakfast.” When In Doubt, D.I.Y. “I make my own ‘Popsicles’ so I know exactly what’s in them. I do a banana, pineapple, and coconut milk one—just blend it and freeze it—and my favorite is honeydew, mint, and a little…

Health Department When you cook and eat for a living, you learn a thing about staying healthy. Here, the whole foods and essential tools that keep the BA staff feeling good 1 ASHLEA HALPERN SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR “Lacto-fermented in Brooklyn, Sunny Bang probiotic hot sauce is my preferred way to eat goodfor-you bacteria. Haters gonna hate, but it’s better than Sriracha.” $15 for 8 oz.; sunnybangprivatelabel.com 2 CARLA LALLI MUSIC FOOD AND FEATURES EDITOR “In winter, I attach sprouting lids to my Mason jars and sprout sunflower seeds and mung beans. I then sprinkle the crunchy shoots in salads and on soups.” $5; thebrooklynkitchen.com 3 FAYE CHID ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Native Harvest Wild Rice is the real deal: wild wild rice, hand-harvested by the Anishinabe in northern Minnesota. It’s high…

You’ve tried oatmeal, smoothies, and chia seeds on your yogurt. But the most nourishing breakfast takes its cue from Japan LAST JANUARY, we resolved to head down a heartier, more enlightened path. There’s no more running out of our houses with only cups of coffee to sustain us until noon. But while lots of people start their days with something sweet, we go for savory flavors. And so we looked to Asia, where their breakfast would be equally delicious at dinner. The fact that our interpretation is healthy, filling, and beautiful to look at makes it even more satisfying. Our breakfasts are built around shortgrain brown rice and/or tiny earthy lentils. Eaten together, they deliver a complete protein with all the essential amino acids. We keep things simple, cooking extra…

When we decided to make this special issue, we didn’t suddenly start counting calories, checking our cholesterol, or monitoring our sodium intake. Instead, our mission was simple: Let’s write about how we, as a staff, cook. Maybe it’s because most of us are hovering around 40 and have small kids—or maybe it’s just a sign of our increasingly farm-to-table, everything-organic times—but we’re all eating far better than we did a decade ago. More whole grains, less white flour; more leafy, hardy greens; more heritage-breed pork instead of that plastic-wrapped supermarket stuff; more pristine, sustainable fish. And when we build our meals around these ingredients, we don’t think “health,” we think “delicious.” The following 40 pages celebrate what great cooking has always been about: the best possible ingredients, prepared smartly and…

Stir-Fried Grains with ’ Shrimp and Eggs 4 SERVINGS Make extra grains on Sunday and use them for this lightning-quick weeknight dinner. 4 shallots, thinly sliced 2 star anise pods (optional) 1/4 dried chile de arbol or 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 5 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided Kosher salt 12 oz. deveined peeled rock shrimp, or large shrimp, cut into 3/4" pieces 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. chopped peeled ginger 2 1/3-3 cups cooked grains (such as sorghum, semi-pearled farro, or barley) 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil 4 large eggs 1 red chile, with seeds, thinly sliced into rounds 1 cup fresh cilantro, basil, and/or mint leaves Combine shallots, star anise, if using, chile de árbol, and 3…

CHAPTER 4 Poached Perfaction Want a stove-top method that’s low-fuss and splatter-free? Try poach fish in a concentrated broth. The liquid imparts delicate flavor and offers endless variations: Give it a French feel with olives ary, or an Asian th soy sauce and ler. Serve fish in a hallow bowl with some oking liquid spooned jver for a restaurantworthy presentation. FRESH ADVICE With fish, freshness is imperative. So, if possible, shop at a fishmonger that buys directly from a fish market (many supermarkets rely on distributors—an extra middleman). Choose fish that’s plump and pristine. The scales of a very fresh whole fish practically sparkle; its eyes should be clear and bright. The gills are feathery and rich red, not matted and brick red. Avoid fillets that appear flat, mushy, or…

HOMEMADE NUT MILK IS RICH, CREAMY, AND RIDICULOUSLY EASY TO MAKE. JUST SOAK, BLEND, STRAIN, AND VOILÀ! YOU’RE ABOUT TO All nut milks taste best with a touch of sweetener. For more ideas on what to use, see Prep School, page 98. Get Milk Any newbie can turn out basic nut milk. But the care you put into soaking, blending, and straining the nuts makes all the difference. Nail these key moments and you’ll be left with a beverage so irresistibly delicious, you’ll question why you ever drink real dairy. Basic Nut Milk MAKES 3-4 CUPS No matter how fanatical you are about straining the milk, some sediment will settle as it sits. Shake or stir before using. 1 cup raw almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios, pecans, walnuts, cashews, or peanuts 4…

Queen Latifah She’s rapped, acted, produced, and talk-show-hosted her way to stardom, so it’s only fitting that Queen Latifah takes an omnivorous approach to food, too. A self-described adventurous eater, she’s tried blowfish at Masa and remembers her dad frying rabbit growing up (a traumatic experience: “I was a big Bugs Bunny fan”). Though more health-conscious these days, she refuses to 86 her favorite foods. “I’m not giving up my funnel cake—not gonna happen,” says Latifah, adding that for her, balance is key. The green room at The Queen Latifah Show, for example, is packed with healthy “photo-shoot food” like Fage and Pirate’s Booty. “I don’t eat too much before I go onstage because I might belch—and that would be crazy,” she laughs. We can get behind that, just like…

READERS’ FAVORITE RESTAURANT RECIPES DEAR BON APPÉTIT, DURING OUR REUNION IN CHARLESTON, SC, MY COLLEGE GIRLFRIENDS AND I HAD DINNER AT HIGH COTTON. THE DARK CHOCOLATE PUDDING WAS THE HIGHLIGHT. COULD YOU GET THE RECIPE FOR ME? —SUZY CARPENTER, Boca Raton, FL DARK CHOCOLATE PUDDING WITH PRETZELS 6 SERVINGS More proof that salt makes any dessert taste better—we’d even top these puddings with crushed potato chips. 1 cup sugar 2 Tbsp. cornstarch 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process ¼ tsp. kosher salt 4 large egg yolks 2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise 6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, melted, slightly cooled 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 tsp. vanilla extract Whipped cream and chopped pretzels (for serving) Whisk sugar, cornstarch, cocoa powder, and salt in…

Juicy Couture In the dead of winter, nothing perks fup a produce-starved menu like tangy-sweet grapefruit. Here, four fashionable ways to use THAI DUCK AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD “The grapefruit brightens everything in this dish.”—Eleanore Park, BA recipe tester Season one 12-oz. duck breast with salt and pepper and cook in a skillet to medium-rare (see Prep School, page 99, for more details); let rest, then thinly slice. Whisk 1 grated garlic clove, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 Tbsp. fish sauce, 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, 2 tsp. grated ginger, and ½ tsp. sugar in a large bowl; add duck, 2 thinly sliced scallions, 2 cups cilantro sprigs, 1 cup fresh mint leaves, and segments from 2 red or pink grapefruits and toss. 4 servings GRAPEFRUIT WITH CHILE AND ROSEMARY “My…

THE YEAR 2014 IN PREVIEW Andrew Knowlton predicts the next big ingredients, cuisines, and cities that will shape how we eat PANCAKES FOR DINNER Not the butter-andsyrup kind but savory ones made with sourdough batter and studded with sea urchin, squid, smoked sturgeon, and the like. Basically, serve any salty or tangy ingredient in pancake form and I’ll order it, from State Bird Provisions in San Francisco to Chez Sardine in New York. What’s that feathery frond topping your fish? And crowning your cucumber salad? It’s bronze fennel, the garnish du jour. Expect more and more chefs to fall for its mild anise flavor and dashing good looks. 3 RECLAIMED & REVIVED Once upon a time, some frat boy dropped a shot glass of whiskey into a beer, guzzled it,…

FOOD LOVERS CLEANSE Our post-holiday reboot is anything but ascetic. It’s achievable and-more important-tasty, thanks to these deliciously versatile staples I’M A COOK, NOT A NUTRITIONIST. So to create the annual Food Lover’s Cleanse-Bon Appétit’s two-week healthy-eating plan to help you balance the excesses of the holiday season-I partner with New York-based registered dietitian Marissa Lippert. She makes sure the recipes are sensible. My job is to make sure the food tastes good. There’s no way I’d survive a diet of dull foods, so I pack the cleanse with bold, fresh flavors. The FLC program is cookingintensive; we provide recipes for every meal so you can get in the kitchen and enjoy the pleasures of preparing whole foods (plus tips if you can’t cook on a given day). Since two…

build a salad Start treating grains as a basic building block,’ and weeknight meals become effortless. Customize your healthful bowl with raw and/or cooked vegetables, herbs, and crunchy nuts or seeds, and toss with a vinaigrette. Still going? Add a poached egg or some sliced chicken. THESE WHOLESOME GUYS WILL UPGRADE EVERY MEAL. THEY PROVIDE YOU WITH A FILLING, FEEL-GOOD BREAKFAST AND HAVE THE POWER TO SAVE YOU FROM ANOTHER MUNDANE KEYBOARD-ADJACENT LUNCH. THE BEST PART IF YOU CAN BOIL A POT OF WATER, YOU’RE ALREADY HALFWAY THERE boost your batter One of many great reasons to keep extra cooked grains around: They can be added to pancake or waffle batters, quick breads, muffinseven vegetable fritters. It’s an effortless way to add nutrition and texture to old standbys and new…

CHAPTER-2 THEY’RE EVERYWHERE, FROM OUR STAFFERS’ KITCHENS TO THOSE CAREFULLY CURATED BOUTIQUE SHELVES. THEY’RE THE RESOURCEFUL-AND PROFOUNDLY INFLUENTIAL-BOOKS THAT DRIVE THE WAY WE COOK TODAY INTRODUCING… BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA Rose_Carrarini ($30) “If the book’s design wasn’t inspirational enough, the hippie-chic recipes from this fashionable Brit-helmed bakery in Paris make you want to hunker down with a pot of organic Earl Grey and a slice of lemon cake made with rice flour (and, yes, over four sticks of butter). Even the scones get a handful of wheat germ.” -Christine Muhlke, executive editor TARTINE BREAD Chad Robertson ($40) “This book from the San Francisco master demystifies bread baking, making the art of flours and fermentation understandable. Reading through it helped us take significant steps in the bread baking at my restaurants.” —Christian…

HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER (OR MORE INSPIRED). CHEFS DANIEL PATTERSON, SEAN BROCK, DAN BARBER, AND APRIL BLOOMFIELD EXPLAIN HOW IT WORKED: ON OCTOBER 18, 2013, RESTAURANT & DRINKS EDITOR ANDREW KNOWLTON HOSTED EVERYONE FOR LUNCH AT THE SPOTTED PIG IN NYC. THIS IS WHAT THEY HAD TO SAY* (AND EAT). DEFINING THE NEW HEALTHY Daniel: What’s more important than having some kind of overarching everyone-should-eat-like-this is to say how people should eat within their place. If you’re in the Midwest, you should have more meat and dairy because you have a lot of farmland. In the South, barbecue is a cultural food because you have a lot of pigs. Seant: It’s what you do for a living, too. People say," Jesus, I can’t believe Southerners eat that for breakfast.” But…

DO YOU LIKE DECADENT, CHOCOLATY COOKIES? HOW ABOUT FRESH-FROM-THE-FRYER APPLE FRITTERS? THEN YOU’RE ALREADY IN ON A LITTLE SECRET: WHEN YOU HARNESS THE RICH—AND NUTRITIOUS—POWERS OF NUTS, OATS, BUCKWHEAT, AND CORN, YOU CAN MAKE SWEETS THAT WHITE FLOUR WISHES IT COULD BE A PART OF Sweets Without Wheat Here at BA, we’ve been dialing back our wheat consumption. (And judging by the gluten-free pasta menu at New York’s Del Posto, it’s clear that restaurants are doing the same.) It’s not just because it feels good to replace empty calories with nourishing foods. It’s because we love the white-flour alternatives so much-especially when it comes to baking. They add intriguing texture, deepen the flavor, and add a nutritional boost you’d never get from the plain white stuff. FRESH ADVICE When baking,…