Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2013 i Bon Appetit

BE HOLD THE NEW BONAPPETIT.COM! Starting now, things are going to look a little around different here. We’ve overhauled our Web site with tons of cool new features. Here’s what to look for… Kitchen Mode Step-bystep slides to guide you through recipes. A New Recipe Box Like your trusty index cards, but digitized. Inside the BA Test Kitchen Our food team shares its tricks of the trade. Add Your Suggestions An easier way to comment on your favorite recipes. Enhanced Search Find what you’re hungry for, faster than ever. Big, Beautiful Photos More pixels, more power to make you swoon. More Daily Content The latest reporting on food news and trends. ON THE WAY TO OUR HOT 10, WE CAME UP WITH 50 NOMINEES FOR AMERICA’S BEST NEW RESTAURANTS. SEE…

ICEBERG AHEAD! In a world now ruled by kale salad, the iceberg wedge should be obsolete. Fortunately, this hunk of supercrisp iceberg lettuce cloaked in tangy blue-cheese dressing and topped with everything from bacon to avocado showed up this year at many of our favorite new spots-Jeffrey’s in Austin, Parka in Minneapolis, Chez Sardine in New York. And why not? There’s no subtext with the wedge (none of that "I’m healthy!"). Its only goal is to please. And in the end, isn’t that what we want from our food? —SCOTT DESIMON…

THE ONE RECIPE YOU NEED FROM… Turns out, the man Turns out, the man truck is really into... milkshakes. He shared his obsession—and his recipe—straight from his book. Now we’re hooked, too. LA. Son by Roy Choi ($30) MY MILKSHAKE 3 cups premium vanilla ice cream 1 banana, peeled and chopped 1 cup shaved ice, made by putting ice cubes in a resealable storage bag and crushing them with a can of soup or any other heavy object 3 T granulated sugar Microscopic pinch of Maldon sea salt 2 cups whole milk Frosted Flakes and caramel sauce Pack the ice cream down into a blender. Add the banana, ice, sugar, and salt. Pour one cup of the milk over the top. Cover and blend everything until it’s nice and creamy.…

How did formerly stodgy Sherry become the darling of hip sommeliers and fashionable drinkers? Simple: The Spanish fortified wine (brandy is added after fermentation to boost the alcohol content) is deliciously unique: sometimes sweet, sometimes saline and bracingly dry, often nutty and whiskey-like. It pairs well with food, from appetizers to desserts. While complex enough to be sipped on its own, Sherry is easily co-opted by crafty bartenders. In fact, it’s hard to say who appeared first on Sherry’s unlikely road to cool: the oeno-dude enjoying a cold predinner fino or the mixologist who subbed Oloroso for bourbon in search of a lower-octane cocktail. Mo matter, everyone’s drinking it now. Oh, and did we mention that it’s a great bargain? In fact, it’s one of the best—and last - values…

No sous vide machine? No problem. Our chef friends reveal the quick, simple, and satisfying meals they cook at home CHEF TIP: GIVE IT EXTRA LOVE “Always make more so you have leftovers. When I was growing up, my grandma would make spaghetti and fried chicken on Sundays. The best part about it was later that night: As I got older, we’d go outside and have a couple of beers, and the thing I looked forward to more than anything was coming back in and eating cold spaghetti. I think it’s every Italian kid’s gluttonous dream.” —CHEF MICHAEL HUDMAN, HOG & HOMINY MICHAEL HUDMAN AND ANDY TICER HOG & HOMINY MEMPHIS Pasta with Chorizo and Chickpeas ACTIVE 25 MINUTES TOTAL 45 MINUTES 6 SERVINGS As co-chefs, Hudman and Tlcer see…

IMAGINE A BAR where the mayor of San Francisco would chat up Sean Penn and Christopher Hitchens until four in the morning. Or where the owner would leave the keys with the drummer from Metallica—and tell him to lock up when he’s finished. That was Tosca Cafe, a North Beach staple that has been a dimly lit home to everyone from the Beats to Rudolph Nureyev to...Kid Rock? There was no velvet rope, no bottle service—just some rippedup red vinyl booths and a jukebox playing opera and a vintage espresso machine that barely heated water anymore. Nobody cared if you smoked. Nobody hounded you to pay your tab on time. The only rule: Don’t bother anyone. If every great party needs a great host, “the Tosca” had Jeannette Etheredge, a…

"SIT," THE BOY COMMANDED. I thought I detected an unfamiliar note of concern and tenderness in his voice. But my powers of detection were blunted by an interrogation level of sleep deprivation. It was a time of happy chaos within our growing household: The boy, not quite two years old, had just been joined by a girl whose age we still measured in days. We sang nonsense songs all night and ate ice cream for breakfast. For a week, nobody went outside or wore pants. Sensing a frayed fabric of life in need of mending, my son stopped me as I leapt by him on the way to fetch something infant-related in the kitchen. “Dada, sit,” he said, indicating the seat opposite his high chair. He sounded serious. So I…

RESTAURANT of the YEAR Los Angeles, California The best new restaurant of 2013 proves that youth, creativity, and fearlessness are the new recipe for success TREND SPOTTING Personalized Playlists “Chefs aren’t shy about sharing their musical taste. I heard lots of Beach House, Fleetwood Mac, and Stones during my meal here.” —A.K. Ari Taymor has a knack for knocking on doors, and a talent for showing up unannounced at a restaurant’s service entrance. He’s not afraid to call a chef every day for a month to ask if he can come work for free. In other words, he can be a royal pain in the butt. But it’s that won’t-take-no-for-an- answer attitude that led him, at just 26 years old, to open Alma. The story of how this unassuming, 39-seat…

Chicago, Illinois Learn how to make the Portuguese/Macanese/Euro-Asian dish that’s taking the Windy City by storm A YEAR AGO, I WOULD have had a hard time describing Macanese food, let alone finding a restaurant serving it that belonged on this list. That all changed when I ate at Chicago’s Fat Rice. As it turns out, the food of Macau is a culinary mutt, mingling ingredients and influences from Portugal, China, India, and Southeast Asia. Owners Abraham Conlon and Adrienne Lo describe it as “Euro-Asian comfort food.” On the plate, that translates to dishes like ginger-lime cauliflower pickles, fried smelts with tongue-searing Sichuan peppercorns, and rustic clay pots overflowing with everything from caramel catfish to piri piri chicken. It’s like a far-flung episode of The Amazing Race, except here all the…

Atlanta, Georgia The seafood shack gets supersized at this sea-and-be seen hot spot ON PAPER, I SHOULDN’T LIKE THE OPTIMIST. The seafood-centric menu is as big as the Atlantic, and the dining room is similarly vast—180 seats huge. Out front, there’s a putting green where you can practice your golf game until your table is called. This high-volume playland is the exact opposite of the small and quirky places I’m usually drawn to. And yet...I love it. Named for a kid’s sailing dinghy, The Optimist is the creation of Atlanta chef and managing partner Ford Fry, who clearly knows how to navigate a winner: It is without a doubt the best of a growing number of big-name fish houses that have opened this year. (You read me right: Fish is…

American caviar is no longer a poor man’s substitute for the imported stuff. Chefs have embraced sustainable domestic types, from salmon roe {on a Napa cabbage salad at Daikaya in Washington, D.C.) to luxe wild sturgeon (paired with chicharron at Houston’s The Pass). But you don’t have to eat out to get a taste—a range of options is available online, — DAWIN PERRY Only 5 percent of the Transmontanous sturgeon at this California facility produce golden eggs. The coveted caviar is creamy, not too salty–and pricey. Golden Reserve caviar, $300 for 1 oz.; tsamicoufai.com Sustainably raised in Florida, Siberian sturgeon make for buttery roe that can be compared to Caspian Sea sevruga. Mote Marine Siberian caviar $65 for J OZ; shop, brown eiradrng.com Salmon’s peart-size roe, shown here, makes its…

THAT ’ 70S CHOW I DON’T KNOW ABOUT YOU, but when I was a kid in Washington, DC, going out to dinner was a big deal. Onee a month or so, my parents would pile my brother, my sister, and me into our banged-up, coffee-colored Dodge wagon and we’d truck off to a spot like Bish Thompson’s in Bethesda, Maryland, This was one of those nautical-the med seafood restaurants with captain’s wheels on the wall, netting on the ceiling, glowing fish tanks in the dining room, and mints at the door. It was like having dinner at an amusement park. Same with Yenching Palace in Washington’s Cleveland Park, with its neon-lit Chinatown-style facade, radioactive-red Shirley Temples, and crisp, golden shrimp toast. On a couple of occasions, my dad took me…

At today’s hottest tables, the organic-shaped, vintage-inspired plates are as much of an attraction as the meal itself 1 Jeffrey’s; Austin Match Pewter “Scribed Rim” charger, $235; didriks.com 2 Little Country Gentleman; St. Louis Small rectangular slate board, $10; crateandbarrel.com 3 Pêche Seafood Grill; New Orleans “Evolution” Granite coupe plate, $661 for 36; dudson.com 4 Forequarter; Madison, WI Greg Hartman cheese board, $32; shop.underground foodcollective.org 5 Antique Taco; Chicago Vintage bowl, $7–$20; fishseddy.com 6 Spoon Bar & Kitchen; Dallas “Craft Collection” 6" terra-cotta coupe plate, $9; steelite.com for information 7 Eventide Oyster Co.; Portland, ME Alison Evans small oyster plate, $46, and medium oyster plate, $60; aeceramics.com 8 Rye; Leawood, KS “Craft Collection” 5" green bowl, $14, and 10" blue coupe bowl, $25; steelite.com for information 9 Alma; Los Angeles…

Heat-Keeping Missile It may look sinister, but trust us: The Zojirushi thermos only uses its game-changing powers for good When Andrew Knowlton, BA’s restaurant and drinks editor, told me he spotted a chef using a Zojirushi to sauce dishes at Table restaurant in Washington, D.C., I wasn’t surprised. In fact, I felt validated. This is the same space-age commuter’s cup I’d been proselytizing about for months. Oh, I hear you: “No insulated mug is worth bragging about.” Believe me, if you had one you’d brag, too. The Zojirushi people credit their “vacuum insulation technology” for keeping liquids hot—or cold—for an insanely long time. It’s the science behind that feeling of sheer joy I get when I pop the top and see steam rise out of it hours after arriving at…

The day after we had our first child, a friend with kids visited us in the hospital to meet the new addition. He held the baby, we took some pictures, and before he left, he delivered some advice: “Make sure to get a date night every once in a while,” he said. “Alone time is important, and it can get lost.” Lost? On us? Never! As if to prove our point, we headed out for our first post-kid dinner six weeks later—an early-bird special in downtown Manhattan. We put our daughter to bed, handed the babysitter many pages of insane instructions, and ran out the door. But the alone time we’d carved out didn’t feel so…alone. We checked our phones. We called the sitter. We ate like cavemen and skipped…

See those house-made pickles and tangy sodas on menus? Chefs are embracing good-for-you fermented foods. Here’s how you can, too CULINARY INSPIRATION can come in unlikely forms. For Cortney Burns, co-chef of Bar Tartine in San Francisco, it started with a doctor’s appointment. "It’s not so sexy: I was having digestion problems," she says. A naturopathic doctor put her on a regimen including sauerkraut and water kefir, a fermented soda. The probiotic prescription was a delicious success. Fermented foods like sauerkraut and yogurt contain "good" bacteria that aid digestion, which in turn improves nutrient absorption. As Burns felt better, she began experimenting at home. She realized that lactic acid, a fermentation by-product, was "deepening flavor, creating awesome layers." Discovering that funkiness inspired her to start an expansive fermentation program at…

Ever since Sean Brock opened his celebrated Husk Restaurant three years ago, Charleston, South Carolina, has exuded a gravitational pull for food lovers as the one city they absolutely, positively must visit. But you could argue that it wasn’t until very recently that this picturesque town—gaslight lamps, cobblestone streets, centuries-old townhouses—offered the breadth of restaurants that truly make it a dining capital. Now, in addition to the heritage Southern cuisine that Brock serves at Husk, Charleston boasts a growing number of chef-driven places, from a boisterous oyster bar to a pan-Asian hideout in a former garage. Combine this energized scene with the old-fashioned charm and comforting flavors of Low Country cooking already present, and you’ve got a town you really do need to visit. LOW COUNTRY TERROIR People notice when…

illustrations by Mike Perry Additional reporting by Scott DeSimon, Sara Dickerman, Matt Duckor, Julia Kramer, Meryl Rothstein, Joanna Sciarrino, and Amiel Stanek To see the full list of all 50 nominees for the Best New Restaurants of 2013, go to bonappetit.com/go/50best Thirteen must be my lucky number. That’s how many Bon Appétit restaurant issues I’ve worked on. My role has changed over the years, from spell-checking Kokkari Estiatorio in 2001 to choosing the Hot 10 in 2009, the first time we made such a list. But I’ve got to admit: This is the issue I’m most proud of. I’ve traveled more, eaten more, spent more, and endured more sleepless nights deciding whom to include than any year prior. I think you’ll be able to see (or is it taste?) the…

San Francisco, California Dinner for two at Joshua Skenes’s stunner will set you back—gulp!—$1,000. Let’s run the numbers FLOWERS $800/WEEK Natalie Bowen Designs provides custom arrangements. The custom build-out for Saison’s kitchen and dining room came in at a cool $2,800,000. LET’S GET THIS OUT OF THE WAY: Eating at Saison, Joshua Skenes’s 32-seat stunner, is expensive. Very expensive. Figure $248 for the prix fixe (the only option), and $148 more for the wine pairing, which you should get. You’ll also want a few cocktails at the bar first. Six hours later, your table of two will have spent around $1,018.25. At least, that’s what it cost me. And here’s the real shocker: It was worth it. For most, this price tag is a deal-breaker. But consider that a full-time…

Portland, Oregon These days, it’s not just about the entrées. At this Italian newcomer, fresh, crunchy vegetable sides earn top billing I USED TO JUDGE A CHEF by the way he or she roasted a chicken. But now that farm-to-table is the standard, it’s more about what they can do with a carrot. At the trattoria-inspired Ava Gene’s, the second restaurant from Stumptown Coffee Roasters founder and budding restaurateur Duane Sorenson, green-thumb cuisine becomes masterful. Chef Joshua McFadden cooked at the groundbreaking raw-vegan restaurant Roxanne’s in the Bay Area and was the chef de cuisine at Brooklyn trailblazer Franny’s, where, as far as I can tell, he created the raw kale salad that has become a menu staple everywhere. Then he spent a couple of years working on the storied…

Austin, Texas Details make the difference at the country’s most stylish pair of restaurants IT’S THE LITTLE THINGS that define a great restaurant. Monogrammed cocktail napkins. Warm bread and soft butter. A hostess’s simple "Good night," as a guest exits. Thanks to 31-year-old Austin empire-builder Larry McGuire, there are few places that nail those details better than his reinvigoration of local institution Jeffrey’s and its sister spot, Josephine House. In an era of restaurants known for an off-the-cuff approach, these destinations are sophisticated fine-dining throwbacks where the flower arrangements matter, the comfort of the chairs matters, and, refreshingly, the customer matters. Of course, the food matters, too, I could spend hours lunching at the whitewashed space that is Josephine House, sipping Palomas (tequila, grapefruit, lime, salt, and sparkling water) and…

Sofia Coppola is our kind of tastemaker. Bloggers fixate on the bags the director carries—Louis Vuitton asked her to collaborate, of course. And music hounds obsess over the songs in her films, like the track her husband’s band. Phoenix, contributed to The Bling Ring. SC watchers also know that her father, Francis Ford Coppola, named a cuvee of wines for her, with a 2012 Chardonnay joining those intoxicating little cans of sparkling wine. ("They’re much more lethal than you would expect," says Sofia.) But what we really want to know is: Where does she like to eat? She goes casual in NYC: just-made tofu at EN Japanese Brasserie or the chocolate mousse at Buvette. In Paris, it might be Welsh rarebit at Cafe de Flore or the luxe vegetable menu…

THE CLAM AND BACON PIZZA FROM AREA FOUR IN CAMBRIDGE, MA, HAS JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SEA FLAVOR AND SALTY, SMOKY BACON. IT’S FREAKIN’ DELICIOUS—I WANT ONE RIGHT NOW! —CHEF MATTHEW GAUDET, West Bridge, Cambridge, MA CLAM AND BACON PIZZA 4 SERVINGS Blanched garlic, which is sweet and mild, is blended with briny clam liquor and olive oil to make a creamy white sauce for this unconventional pizza. 2 heads of garlic, separated into cloves, peeled 24 littleneck clams, scrubbed 2 Tbsp. olive oil plus more 8 oz. thick-cut bacon, sliced crosswise ¼" thick 1 lb. prepared pizza dough, room temperature 1 oz. Pecorino, finely grated (about ½ cup) Fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and crushed red pepper flakes (for serving) Bring garlic and 4 cups water to a boil…

The art of eating (and drinking) out: An afternoon glass of wine is totally Wine with the Austenland star. Bad music? Not so much. Music Makes the Meal "I like music in restaurants—when it’s used well. I’ve spent a lot of kitchen time dancing to Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros’ ’Man on Fire.’" Embrace Happy Hour "It’s always okay to have an afternoon glass of wine. I’m a mother of two. Isn’t it in the rule book?" Don’t Obsess Overprice "It doesn’t always reflect a restaurant’s quality. If a place is cozy and delicious, it’s so much better than having eight courses and being uptight.". Go Early "I eat alone a lot, so I love finding a tucked-away-in-the-corner spot with my book, just when they open." Define Your Night…

Learn To... GARNISH WITH TOASTED GRAINS! INFUSE SIMPLE SYRUPS! BOOST YOUR BUTTER! SHAVE YOUR VEGGIES! PROPERLY SAUCE A PLATE! BLISTER BRASSICAS! MAKE NUT MILKS! QUICK-PICKLE VEGETABLES! 1 VERMILION Alexandria, VA QUICK PICKLING "Boil 1/2cups vinegar, 1 cup water, 2 Tbsp. sugar, 2 tsp. kosher salt, and some herbs and spices until the sugar and salt dissolve. Add any crunchy vegetable you’d eat raw and cook until at dente. Pour it all into jars, then cover and chill. Eat right away or keep even longer for more flavor" -Chef Will Morris 2 OCEANA New York THE NEW SAUCING "The ’pull’ is the new swoosh. Start with a dollop of sauce in the bowl of a spoon; thicker sauces work best. Turn the spoon sideways, then tap the spoon onto the plate.…

Eating America The most amazing things Andrew Knowlton saw, heard, and yes, devoured during his 120-day, 26,333-mile, 22-state tour of the country’s best new restaurants* 1 FISH HEADS! (EAT THEM UP, YUM) Why throw away what could be a signature dish? Miso-maple roasted salmon head, fish-head terrine, and both country-fried and grilled hamachi collar are proof that one person’s bait is another’s must-order. SEEN AT: Paper Plane, Decatur, GA; A Pig in a Fur Coat, Madison, Wl; The Ordinary, Charleston, SC 2 SQUEEZE PLAY The plastic squeeze bottle has left the kitchen for a dining room table near you, filled with all kinds of house-made condiments, from hot sauce to fish sauce. Its next move? Going home with you. 3 ANATOMY OF A 2013 RESTAURANT BATHROOM Seems like restaurants are…

LUSH PORK, toothsome noodles, and a heady broth you can’t stop slurping—it’s no wonder ramen joints are drawing droves of diners, off-duty chefs, and seemingly everyone on your Instagram feed. Bringing shoyu ramen home takes a trip to an Asian market, three days of work, and your largest pot, but this low-stress (really!) labor of love might be the best soup you’ll ever make. WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR SHOYU RAMEN 6 SERVINGS KOMBU DASHI AND TARE 2 pieces dried kombu ½ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce 2 Tbsp. dry sake 1 Tbsp. mirin PORK AND STOCK 1½ lb. boneless pork shoulder Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 lb. chicken necks, backs, and/or wings 1 lb. pork spareribs 2 bunches scallions, chopped 2 carrots, peeled, cut into pieces…

Paris perfect The waiters at Le Voltaire, a beloved restaurant of designers like Thom Browne. Thakoon Panichgul is done with the cool restaurant thing. “I feel like you let trends dictate as opposed to being able to say, ‘This is what I like,’ ” explains the womens wear designer. These days, he prefers making Thai and rustic recipes for friends: “To me, even just the quality of food is exponentially better when you cook at home.” Here are his ingredients for a stylish dinner party. “Good fashion is quite simple: A different silhouette changes your perception. Food is the same: It’s about the one ingredient that you don’t add that takes the others to another place.” SHOPAHOLIC Weekends in upstate New York, Thakoon goes out of his way to buy…

Seattle, Washington The perfect meal starts in one Seattle restaurant, continues in another, and should definitely include tartate The Meat Renee Erickson goes off-script, using local lamb loin instead of traditional beef. “Lamb is really sweet and mild when it’s raw,” she says. She hand-cuts it for the best texture. The Olive Oil A small pool of buttery olive oil on the plate acts as a condiment; Erickson likes to draw a forkful of lamb through it for each bite. The Mix-Ins She combines classic additions, like shallots and capers, with unconventional ones, like fresh mint and preserved lemon. She’s careful not to overseason the dish: “I’m all about tasting the meat.” The Bread Instead of toast points, Erickson prefers heartier toasted country bread. “I like the contrast of the…

Nashville, Tennessee House-made pasta is the heart and soul of Nashville’s newest, coolest neighborhood joint I’M STARTING TO THINK that chef Philip Krajeck was put on earth to make pasta. Let’s look at the evidence: He happened to live between two Italian families while growing up in Brussels, Belgium. One night he’d be eating gnocchi with fresh porcini with one family, cacioe pepe with the other the next. Later, he worked in a Swiss kitchen surrounded by Italian cooks. That’s where he learned how to form the twisted pasta called strozzapreti (“priest strangler”), among other shapes. Lord knows I’ve eaten my fair share of pasta dishes around the country this year (it seems that tough economic times call for a big, comforting bowl of noodles). But when I tried Krajeck’s…

Houston, Texas One building, two restaurants, and a pair of chefs who deliver very different—but equally delicious—menus THE PASS This massive pork rind, part of the Ham & Eggs course, is seasoned with ham dust that’s made from the scraps left over from Provisions. THIS YEAR’S AWARD FOR THE MOST AWE-INSPIRING DISH goes to a first course served at The Pass, the white-tablecloth half of adjoining restaurants from chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner. It stars what has to be the world’s largest pork rind, dusted with prosciutto powder and presented alongside a tin of caviar, miniature dehydrated accompaniments (chives, egg yolk, capers, etc.), and fried buckwheat kernels set atop a purée of celery root and crème fraîche. It’s like caviar service on Adderall. The surprises don’t stop there. Bucatini…

Brooklyn, New York Earnest, unyielding, and outspoken—a conversation with chef Fredrik Berselius reveals he’s as opinionated as he is gifted photographs by Tuukka Koski THERE’S A PART OF ME THAT THINKS I’ll look back on a meal at Aska years from now and wonder, “Did I eat a dish of salsify, lichen, and autumn leaves, and like it?” There’s another part of me that thinks the New Nordic movement, of which Aska is a card-carrying member, is the most influential culinary philosophy since nouvelle cuisine of the 1960s. This cooking style—defined by hyperlocal, often foraged ingredients, earthy flavors, rustic techniques, and a penchant for the cerebral—has found one of its most talented disciples in Aska’s Swedish-born chef, Fredrik Berselius. At his 24-seat restaurant in the back of an art gallery…